US532613A - tucek - Google Patents

Description

"2 Sheets-Sheet 1 M.-TUGEK, METHOD OF PRODUCING GARMENTPATTERNS.

(No Model.)

33 {Patented-Ja 15, 1895.

QINI/ENTOf? A TTOHNEYS.

I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

' M. TUGEK. METHOD OF- PRODUCING GARMENT PATTERNS.- V No. 532,613. Patented Jan. V15, 1895.

WITNESSES. v /NVENTO/7 v By egm/e/ J Vb I JTTOHWEYS.

j ITE STATES IPA-TENT" OFFICE.

MARIE TUCEK, OF NEW YORIQ N. Y.

METHOD OF PRODUCING GARMENT-PATTERNS.

SPEGIFICATIONforming part of Letters Patent No. 532,613, dated January 15, 1895.

Application filed March 30,1894. Serial No. 505,714. (No specimens.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that "I, MARIE TUGEIQ'Of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Method for Producing Garment-Patterns or, Garments, of which the following is a f all, clear, and exact description.

The object of the invention is to provide a new' and improved method for producing or laying out and cutting garment patterns or garments, in such a manner as to require but few measurements of the body, and comparatively little skill to lay out and cut'a pattern or garment to be produced in either one, two or any desired number of parts, according to the predominant style.

Theimprovedmethodwillbefully described hereinafter, and the novel features of the invention pointed out in the claim.

Reference is to be hadto the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in both the figures.

Figure 1 is a plan view of the pattern or gar-v ment material definedand cut for forming a ladys waistcomposed of eight parts; and Fig. 2 is a perspective View of the material defined and out for forming a ladys waist of a single piece.

In order to carry the above described method into effect, I make use of a unit measure, which equals one inch, and hereinafter I will refer to units with the understanding that each unit represents one inch. I further make use of measurements taken from the body of the person for whom the garment is intended, the measurements being first waist measurement, then breast height by measuring from the neck to a temporary tape fastened to the body at the waist line, then the center back height from the said temporary tape to the uppermost spinal bone, then the breast meas ure, then the measure over the shoulder blades from arm to arm. Having obtained these measures, I proceed as hereinafter more fully described, for forming a ladys waist for instance composed of eight pieces, it being un derstood that Fig. 1. shows the four parts for the same, namely, the front half part A, the

back half part B, and the side parts 0 and four parts when duplicated and united, forming the waist without sleeves.

On the pattern or garment material is first drawn a straight line a (1, representing the waist line, and on the same I erect the perpendicular line b b, representing the front center breast line, and then lay on this line b b from the point of intersection at c, the distance c a, corresponding to the height of the breast measure obtained from the persons body. The distance 0 c is then divided in two to obtain the point 0 From the intersecting point a an angular line 0 d is drawn, which rises from the waist line a a, one unit in every twelve units of length measured off on the said line a a. From the point a, I measure in a right angular direction, one unit to obtain the point 0 and a like unit is measured from the point 0 along the line 0 d to obtain the point 0 I then draw the lines 0 c and c 0 to obtain the front edge of the front half parts A. ,I then measure from the point 0' along the line b b in an upward direction, four 11 nits, to obtain the point 0 and from the latter I measure in a right angular direction a like number of units to obtain the point a, and then draw from the latter point a curved line for forming the top neck edge for the front half part A. From the point 0 in a downward direction I measure along the line 6 ba distance of four units to obtain the point e", and

then measure in a right angular direction,

one-half unit to obtain the point 0 and then draw the line from the point e to the point.

point (Z and from the latter 1 measure one.

unit to obtain the point 01 on the line 0 d,

.then again two units from this point (1 to obtain the point 01 and then I layoff from this point 01 six units less oue-eighthof the waist ,measure to obtain the point 01 and then add a distance d 01 corresponding to the amount of the desired seam, usually one-half unit.

In the middle of the distance between the points at and (Z and the points (1 d, as .well

as on the point d are erected lines e e e parallel to the line b b, and from the point 0 I draw a line e parallel to the line 0 d, intersecting the lines a and e at e and c and from these points I draw a curved line e d and straight lines e (1*, e d and e d Then I draw a line 0 f parallel to the line 0 d, and at the intersecting points 6 c with the lines e e and e e I measure one-half unit at each side to obtain the points ff f ffland then draw the lines d'f', d f d f d f to complete the contour or outline for the darts in the front half part A, as plainly shown in Fig. 1. Then from the intersecting point f on the lines c fand e 6 I measure one unit to obtain the point f and draw from this point the line f (1 and then parallel thereto the line df for the seam of the skirt of the waist at this end of the part A. From the point 0 I measure a distance corresponding to one-half of the breast measure to obtain the point g and through this point I draw a line g g parallel to the line I) b, intersecting with the continuation of the line 0 c at 9 From this point g I measure one unit on the line g g in a downward direction to obtain the point 9 and from the latter I draw the line g c to obtain the upper edge of the part A. From the line 0 cl, I measure, in an upward direction of the line e e the distance of twothirds of the breast height measure to obtain the point 9 and then draw from this point 9 a line 9 9 parallel to the line a a, and from the intersection of this line with the line e e on the point g, I measure one unit to obtain the point 9 and then draw from this line 9 a curved line to the point 9 to obtain the scye edge of the part A, and likewise measure from the point g", one-half unit to obtain the point g for the seam, finally drawing the line g d. By this arrangement I have obtained all the outlines for the part A and can cut the pattern or garment material accordingly, to obtain, the front half part A, which as previously stated, is cut in duplicate for a waist. If no skirt is desired on the waist then the parts below the lines o d are left off.

In order to obtain the outline or contour of the side part 0, I first erect a perpendicular line h h on the waist line a a, and measure thereon upward from the waist line a distance equal to the height d 9 previously ob tained, to obtain the point h. The intersection of the line it h with the baseline for the skirt part of the waist gives the point 71 as shown in Fig. 1, and then by measuring one unit from the intersection of the line h h with the waist line a a from the point It to the point 71, and then drawing the lines h h and 7% 7L2 gives the left edge of the side part 0 to fit onto the edge d g of the front half part A. From h is measured 01f the width of the seam usually one-half unit to obtain the point 71- and then from this point it is measured off along the waist line a a the distance of six units less one-eighth of the waist measure to obtain the point h from which is measured the width of the seam one-half unit to obtain the point if. On the point h is erected a line ii parallel to the line h h and this line intersects with the top edge of the part C, the said top edge being the line h h extending at right angles between the said lines from the point it, previously obtained. The line i i at its intersection with the base line for the skirt part of the waist gives a point 1" from which is measured along the base line a distance of one unit to obtain the point 2' from which is drawn the line i h, thus indicating the stitch line for the right hand edge of the side part, it being understood that the width of the seam is added to this stitch line i h k to obtain the extreme right edge of the part 0.

In order to obtain the outline of the next following side part D, I erect on the waist line a a the perpendicular line j j intersecting at j with the said waist line and from this pointj, I measure one unit to thepoint 9' a one-half unit or width of scam to obtain the pointj along the said waist line. On the line j j is then measured the distance j'j corresponding to the distance it h of the part0, after which the linesj j and the lines j j are drawn. From the point 7" is measured the distance j j corresponding to three units, and then a right angular line is drawn from the pointj to measure off two units to obtain the point j" to which is added the point 9'. The curved line fj is then drawn to obtain part of the scye. From the pointj I measure along the waist line a a the distance of six units less one-eighth of the waist measure to obtain the point 70, from which I measure a distance of one unit to obtain the point I then draw a line from the point 70 to the point j previously obtained, and then measure one-unit from the pointj along the line j to obtain the point 7:1 that is, the lowest point of the scye, from which I draw a horizontal line 70 k intersecting at 70 with the line 70' j From this point of intersection k I measure along the line k 70 one-half unit or width of seam to obtain the point 70 and then draw the lines j 70 parallel to k j and 70 k parallel to k f, the line 70% being continued to the base line for the skirt part of the waist to obtain the point 70 For the half back part B,I first erect a perpendicular line I Z on the Waist line a aand from the point of intersection at Z I measure along the line Z Z a distance corresponding to the center back measure obtained, as previously described. The point Z thus reached is connected by a line with a point Z measured along the waist line a a a distance of one unit from the pointZ'. At the intersection of the line Z Z with the base line of the skirt part of the waist, I obtain the point 1 from which I measure along the baseline one-half unit to obtain the point 1 connected by aline with the point 1 and then I measure from the latter inward one-half unit or width of the seam and draw parallel lines to the lines Z Z and Z Z that is, the lines a l and Z n From IEO ' seam to obtain the point n the point 07. on the base line of the skirt part of the waist I measure along the said base line a distance of six units less one-eighth of the waist measure to obtain the point 11. from which I measure one-half unit or width of From the point Z previously mentioned, I lay off along the waist line a a the distance of six units less oneeighth of the waist measure to obtain the point I", and from this I measure in a reverse direction one unit to obtain the point 1 connected by a line with the point-npreviously mentioned, and likewise I measure off the width for the sea-m to obtain the line 1 n for the skirt part of the waist. From near the upper end of the line Z M, I lay of the distance corresponding to one-half of the shoulder measure obtained from the person and then at the end of this distance the line 0' 0' parallel to the line Z Z. From the point Z I measure upward on the line Z l the distance of one-halfunit to obtain the point n and then draw the horizontal line n n to the intersection of the line 0 o to obtain the point 0 From the latter I measure downward along the said lineo 0 the distance of one unit to obtain thepoint n from which I measure likewise downward a distance of one-fourth the width of the shoulder measure to obtain the point 0 From the point Z I measure in an oblique direction tothe intersection of the line n n a distance corresponding to onefourth of the shoulder measure toobtain the point 40, and then draw the lines Z n and n a A line parallel to this last mentioned line and corresponding to one-half unit or width of seam gives the stitch line for the up- .per end of the part B, to be connected with the upper part of the part A having a like stitch line parallel to the line c 9 From the point 0 I measure inward a distance of onehalf of a unit to obtain the point 0 and then draw from' this point 0 a line to the point Z this line intersecting at 0 with a continuation of the line k 10 obtained as before described. From this point 0 the line 0 1 is drawn and acurved line to the point 0 Likewise a stitch line is drawn from the point Z parallel to the line Z 0 0 It is understood that the various lines thus obtained for the individual parts A, B, C, D, are always necessary whether the dress waist is to .be made of eight parts or of a less number of parts or of only one part, as illustrated in Fig. 3. It is further understood that when the waist is to be made of less parts, then two or more such parts A, O or O, D, or D, B, or

A, O, D or B, D, C, may be unitedly drawn on the material from which the pattern or garment is to be out.

When the waist for instance, is made. of a single piece of material only, then of course the skirt part of the waist is omitted and the material is preferably doubled up, and then the operator commences to first draw on the doubled up material the part B in the manner described it being understood that the measurements are first taken on the lines Z Z and a a at the right of the part B, and then from the edge Z 0 0 is drawn the second piece D to obtain the line 7' 9' and the line 3' 0 corresponding to the line 7' 7' of Fig. 1. Next the piece 0 is drawn from this line 7' j to obtain. the stitch line h h and then the line h is drawn corresponding to the line h h of Fig. 1. Next the piece A is drawn from this line If h in the manner above described and when the entire outline is completed the doubled up material is cut with the exception of the crease or rear edge of the part B. Thus, the pattern or blank for the waist is obtained. After the outlines are drawn on the material for the waist, then the single or several parts are out, after which the several parts are united in the usual manner to complete the bodice part of the waist, it being understood that the sleeves are obtained in a separate manner.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- The herein described method of obtaining waist patterns or waists, which consists in producing upon the material a system of lines composed of a waist line, lines perpendicular thereto, a line arranged at an acute angle to the waist line, and lines parallel to the said acute angled line, then transferring on the said lines measurements obtained from the MARIE TUGEK.

\Vitnesses:

THEO. G. HOSTER, O. SEDGWICK.

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