US459890A - Machines - Google Patents

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US459890A
US459890A US459890DA US459890A US 459890 A US459890 A US 459890A US 459890D A US459890D A US 459890DA US 459890 A US459890 A US 459890A
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Prior art keywords
guide
edge
bosom
sewing
stitching
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B29/00Pressers; Presser feet
    • D05B29/06Presser feet

Definitions

  • My invention has relatio n to sewing-machine attachments designed and adapted-for use particularly in the manufacture of shirts, and has for its object the provision of novel, simple, and efficient means whereby the setting in or securing of a shirt-bosom to a shirt-body may be accomplished in an extremely simple and quick manner without necessitating the exercise of more care on the partof the operator than is requisite for the ordinary feeding of the fabric to the stitching mechanism of the machine, cheapening the cost of manufacture, and at the same time resulting in the production of a garment finished in the highest degree of neatness.
  • FIG. 1 is an end elevation of my improve ments in position for use and so much of a sewing-machine as is necessary to illustrate the application of the same thereto.
  • Fig. 2 is a plan View of my improvements in position the same as in Fig. 1, showing the presserfoot broken away and the cloth-plate of the machine.
  • Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the various parts in the position illustrated in Fig. 1, and
  • Fig. i is a plan view of a part of the finished garment.
  • Fig. 5 is a perspective view of my improvements in operation.
  • My invention has reference particularly to the employment of a pair of needles a d on a bar A, common to both and reciprocating in the head B of the machine, for simultaneously forming two parallel rows or lines of stitching c c in the edge of the bosom O and the contiguous edge of the bosom-opening in the shirt-body D, thereby securing said bosom and body together in the proper relation; also, a pair of oppositely-disposed guides E F, occupying positions one above the other and having an intermediate spacef.
  • the upper guide is of a flattened volute form in crosssection and secured in the outer end of the presser-foot G of the machine to an extension or arm g of said foot, there being left a space g between the inner end of said guide and the main portion of said foot for the passage of the needles a a to the needle-holes a in such manner as to bring its lower surface approximately flush with the under side of the latter.
  • the lower guide F is secured by soldering or otherwise to one of the cloth-plate sections h of the cloth-plate H and having its free end raised for a distance equal at least to the width of the guide, such free end f extending in a direction the opposite of the free end e of the guide E, the space f 2 beneath such raised portion extending slightly beyond the said end 6, the latter being very slightly beyond the axis of the needle C6.
  • the inner ply c of the bosom is placed with its folded edge as far into the space beneath the guide F as possible, as shown in Fig.
  • Figs. 1 and 4 of the drawings the edge of the inner bosom-ply, for convenience of 10 illustration, is shown as being not folded; but such edgeis in practice, and preferably, folded, as shown in Fig. 5, so that all the operator has to do is, after placing the parts of the shirt above mentioned in their proper relation, to feed the same to the guides, the guide E, being secured to the presser-foot G, rising correspondingly therewith under the impulse of the feed, and thus not retarding the body in its passage between the guides under the impulse of the feed K, resulting in the formation of the line or row a of stitching closer to and more uniformlyin fact, perfectlyparallel with the edge of the outer bosom-ply than has heretofore so easily, or even at all, been possible where the guiding of the fabric has been done by hand, therefore conducing to the neatness of finish, which is so desirable, particularly in the finer grades of goods, and

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) 2 SheetsSheet 1.
- E. A. SAUBER.
GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES.
No. 459,890. Patented Sept. 22, 1891.
INVENTEJFR mum 11: mums Farsi! on, mow-mum, m-smuarou, n. c.
(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.
E. A. SAUBER.
GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 459,890. Patented Sept. 22,1891.
WITNEIEEEE INVENTEIFI MW- I mm.
NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
EMIL A. SAUBER, on JPHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO HAGE- DORN a MERZ, or SAME PLACE.
GUIDE FOR SEWING-MACHINES.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 459,890, dated September 22, 1891.
Application filed November 22, 1890. Serial No. 372,303. (No model.)
To all whom it may concern:
Be it knownthat I, EMIL A. SAUBER, a'citizen of the United States of America, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Setting-In Attachments for Sewing-Niachines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.
My invention has relatio n to sewing-machine attachments designed and adapted-for use particularly in the manufacture of shirts, and has for its object the provision of novel, simple, and efficient means whereby the setting in or securing of a shirt-bosom to a shirt-body may be accomplished in an extremely simple and quick manner without necessitating the exercise of more care on the partof the operator than is requisite for the ordinary feeding of the fabric to the stitching mechanism of the machine, cheapening the cost of manufacture, and at the same time resulting in the production of a garment finished in the highest degree of neatness.
My invention consists in the details of construction and the combinations of parts, as hereinafter fully described and claimed, and as illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein Figure 1 is an end elevation of my improve ments in position for use and so much of a sewing-machine as is necessary to illustrate the application of the same thereto. Fig. 2 is a plan View of my improvements in position the same as in Fig. 1, showing the presserfoot broken away and the cloth-plate of the machine. Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the various parts in the position illustrated in Fig. 1, and Fig. i is a plan view of a part of the finished garment. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of my improvements in operation.
My invention has reference particularly to the employment of a pair of needles a d on a bar A, common to both and reciprocating in the head B of the machine, for simultaneously forming two parallel rows or lines of stitching c c in the edge of the bosom O and the contiguous edge of the bosom-opening in the shirt-body D, thereby securing said bosom and body together in the proper relation; also, a pair of oppositely-disposed guides E F, occupying positions one above the other and having an intermediate spacef. The upper guide is of a flattened volute form in crosssection and secured in the outer end of the presser-foot G of the machine to an extension or arm g of said foot, there being left a space g between the inner end of said guide and the main portion of said foot for the passage of the needles a a to the needle-holes a in such manner as to bring its lower surface approximately flush with the under side of the latter. The lower guide F is secured by soldering or otherwise to one of the cloth-plate sections h of the cloth-plate H and having its free end raised for a distance equal at least to the width of the guide, such free end f extending in a direction the opposite of the free end e of the guide E, the space f 2 beneath such raised portion extending slightly beyond the said end 6, the latter being very slightly beyond the axis of the needle C6. The outer ply c of the bosom 0, having first had the turn or fold 0 formed therein in any convenient manner, preferably by crimping, is placed, as shown in the drawings, with such fold closely embracing the edge e of the guide E, in which position it'will be ready to receive the stitching from the needle a at a point extremely close to its edge. On the other hand, the inner ply c of the bosom is placed with its folded edge as far into the space beneath the guide F as possible, as shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings, bringing such edge farther from the axis of the needle ct than the edge of the fold 0 but on the same side of such axis, it not being necessary to have the stitching very close to the edge of the inner ply, because of the same not detracting from the neatness of appearance by reason of its being on the under side, but rather better to have it so, insuring a good hold thereof bein g obtained by the stitching. Then the edge of the body D isinterposed between the guides E F, and therefore between the bosom-plies, when the whole is ready for securing in proper relation.
In Figs. 1 and 4 of the drawings the edge of the inner bosom-ply, for convenience of 10 illustration, is shown as being not folded; but such edgeis in practice, and preferably, folded, as shown in Fig. 5, so that all the operator has to do is, after placing the parts of the shirt above mentioned in their proper relation, to feed the same to the guides, the guide E, being secured to the presser-foot G, rising correspondingly therewith under the impulse of the feed, and thus not retarding the body in its passage between the guides under the impulse of the feed K, resulting in the formation of the line or row a of stitching closer to and more uniformlyin fact, perfectlyparallel with the edge of the outer bosom-ply than has heretofore so easily, or even at all, been possible where the guiding of the fabric has been done by hand, therefore conducing to the neatness of finish, which is so desirable, particularly in the finer grades of goods, and
the consequent saving of expense in their manufacture.
What I claim as my invention is as follows: In a sewing-machine attachment, the con1- bination of the needle-bar, a pair of needles carried thereby, the presser-foot G, the guide E, secured to the latter, and the guide F, secured on the clothplate, said guides having an intermediate space and their free ends e and f oppositely disposed, the end e and the space f beneath the guide F extending outside the line of one of said needles, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.
EMIL A. SAUBER. Witnesses:
WM. H. POWELL, R. DALE SPARHAWK.
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