US443655A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Sewing-machine Download PDF

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US443655A
US443655A US443655DA US443655A US 443655 A US443655 A US 443655A US 443655D A US443655D A US 443655DA US 443655 A US443655 A US 443655A
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sole
machine
needle
sewing
foot
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods

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  • This invention relates to what is known as wax-thread sewing-machines, my particular invention therein being in a peculiar construction of the post and-presser-foot, whereby the same is adapted to hold the material to be stitched together-as, for instance, the upper and a part of a sole when making a shoe after what is called the French process, as fully described in United States Patent No. 379,640, dated March 20, 1888. I have also provided the machine with a cutter by which to trim the edge of the upper and sole parallel to the line of stitching uniting them.
  • Figure 1 in front elevation, shows a sufficient portion of awaX-thread sewing-machine with my improvements added to enable the same to be understood;
  • Fig. 2 a left-hand side view of part of the machine shown in Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 3, a top or plan view of the post;
  • Fig. 4 a top or plan view of the foot;
  • Fig. 5, an enlarged section of the rest and foot, together with a last, a sole and upper thereon in section, and a needle, to thus show the parts in working position.
  • the frame-work A including the overhanging arm A, (but partially shown,) the awlbar A having the awl a, the presser-bar B, the spring B to keep the presser-bar down, the rocking frame C, on which slides the needle-bar I), having the needle I), and the castoff bar 0, having the cast-off c, the link 0 the arm 0 the rock-shaft c for moving the neodle-bar, the arm d of the rock-shaft d to reciprocate the awl-bar, are and may be all as common in wax-thread sewing-machines now commonly in use and known to the trade as the National.
  • the inner sole is slitted in from its edge at two places between the toe and shank thereof, and a portion of the said sole between the said cuts at both edges of the ball of the sole are turned over and the edge of the upper is stitched to the said turned-over portions of the sole. To do this stitching quickly I have devised the machine herein described.
  • the overturned part of the inner sole along the ball thereof and the upper are interposed be tween the narrow portion a of the presserfoot and the narrow portion 2 of the post, the hooked parts 6 and 3 acting as gages against the inner sole on the bottom of the last and against the upper on the last to determine the distance of the scam in the said turnedover portions from the main edge of the inner sole.
  • the edge of the overturned part of the sole stitched to the upper is subsequently cut off, so that when the inner sole is being sewed to the outer sole along the ball of the sole the stitches pass for a part of the length of the shoes only through the outer sole and upper, as in the said patent.
  • the post with an ear in which is placed the fulcrum f of the lever f provided at its upper end with a blade or cutter J.
  • the lower end of the lever f is forked to embrace an eccentric or cam projection g, (represented by dotted lines, Fig. 1,) which projection is embraced by the said lever, the said projection in the operation of the rock-shaft actuating the lever f causing the blade to trim the sole and upper parallel to the seam.
  • the foot f of the post is attached to the framework by a boltf
  • the post has an attached shield or guard S, against which the face of the inner sole on the last is held, while the portions of the inner sole and upper to be stitched together are put into position.
  • the machine herein described will in practice be provided with the usual thread-guide to present a thread to the hook of the needle and with usual tension mechanism for the said thread.
  • I claim- 1 The combination, with the needle-bar and the needle therein and the guard orshield for the face of the inner sole, of a presser foot having its under side beveled and a resthaving its npperside beveled, to operate substantially as described.

Description

(No Model.)
G A STILES SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Dec. 30,1890
lun E WWW. 1n\
' UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
GEORGE A. STILES, OF BROOKLINE, ASSIGNOR TO JUSTUS \V. FRENCH, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.
SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No; 443,655, dated December 30, 1890.
Application filed May 12, 1890. Serial No. 351,474. (No model.)
To all whom it may concern: I
Be it known that I, GEORGE A. STILES, of Brookline, county of Norfolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvementin Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompany ing drawings, is a specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representinglike parts.
This invention relates to what is known as wax-thread sewing-machines, my particular invention therein being in a peculiar construction of the post and-presser-foot, whereby the same is adapted to hold the material to be stitched together-as, for instance, the upper and a part of a sole when making a shoe after what is called the French process, as fully described in United States Patent No. 379,640, dated March 20, 1888. I have also provided the machine with a cutter by which to trim the edge of the upper and sole parallel to the line of stitching uniting them.
Figure 1, in front elevation, shows a sufficient portion of awaX-thread sewing-machine with my improvements added to enable the same to be understood; Fig. 2, a left-hand side view of part of the machine shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3, a top or plan view of the post; Fig. 4, a top or plan view of the foot; and Fig. 5, an enlarged section of the rest and foot, together with a last, a sole and upper thereon in section, and a needle, to thus show the parts in working position.
The frame-work A,including the overhanging arm A, (but partially shown,) the awlbar A having the awl a, the presser-bar B, the spring B to keep the presser-bar down, the rocking frame C, on which slides the needle-bar I), having the needle I), and the castoff bar 0, having the cast-off c, the link 0 the arm 0 the rock-shaft c for moving the neodle-bar, the arm d of the rock-shaft d to reciprocate the awl-bar, are and may be all as common in wax-thread sewing-machines now commonly in use and known to the trade as the National.
In accordance with my invention I have added to the Presser-bar of this usual form of wax-thread machine a presser 6, having a thin narrow foot 6 and a hooked toe e the needle in its passage through the material and when feeding the same while the frame (J is rocked traveling in the slot 6 The post f as remodeled for the work to be done on this machine has a very narrow throat or rest 2, provided with a projection 3 at one end of the recess or slot 4.
In the manufacture of shoes after what is known as the French process and as provided for in said United States patent, the inner sole is slitted in from its edge at two places between the toe and shank thereof, and a portion of the said sole between the said cuts at both edges of the ball of the sole are turned over and the edge of the upper is stitched to the said turned-over portions of the sole. To do this stitching quickly I have devised the machine herein described. The overturned part of the inner sole along the ball thereof and the upper are interposed be tween the narrow portion a of the presserfoot and the narrow portion 2 of the post, the hooked parts 6 and 3 acting as gages against the inner sole on the bottom of the last and against the upper on the last to determine the distance of the scam in the said turnedover portions from the main edge of the inner sole. The edge of the overturned part of the sole stitched to the upper is subsequently cut off, so that when the inner sole is being sewed to the outer sole along the ball of the sole the stitches pass for a part of the length of the shoes only through the outer sole and upper, as in the said patent. To do this trimming automatically I have provided the post with an ear in which is placed the fulcrum f of the lever f provided at its upper end with a blade or cutter J. The lower end of the lever f is forked to embrace an eccentric or cam projection g, (represented by dotted lines, Fig. 1,) which projection is embraced by the said lever, the said projection in the operation of the rock-shaft actuating the lever f causing the blade to trim the sole and upper parallel to the seam. The foot f of the post is attached to the framework by a boltf The post has an attached shield or guard S, against which the face of the inner sole on the last is held, while the portions of the inner sole and upper to be stitched together are put into position. between the top of the post and the presser from the front of the machine. It will be noticed that the top of the rest and bottom of the foot are inclined backwardly from the front of the machine to thus insure the retention of the lip of the inner sole on the post and keep the face of the inner sole up against the shield.
The machine herein described will in practice be provided with the usual thread-guide to present a thread to the hook of the needle and with usual tension mechanism for the said thread.
I claim- 1. The combination, with the needle-bar and the needle therein and the guard orshield for the face of the inner sole, of a presser foot having its under side beveled and a resthaving its npperside beveled, to operate substantially as described.
2. The combination, with a needle-bar, a needle therein, and a pressenbar, of a narrow foot e, having a hooked toe c and a posthaving a narrow top with a projection 3, the under side of the said presser-foot and the top of the said rest being bevcled,as represented, to operate substantially as described.
The combination, with the needle-bar and the needle therein and the guard or shield for the face of the inner sole, of a presser-foot having its under side beveled and a rest having its upper side beveled, and with a blade or cutter, a lever located below the top of the post, and means to actuate the said lever to trim the inner sole and upper parallel to the line of stitching, uniting the said inner sole and upperalong the ball of the shoe, substantially as described.
In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
GEO. A. SIIIIES.
Witnesses:
GEO. W. Gnneonv, EMMA J. lmnnn'r'r.
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