US2399159A

US2399159A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2399159A
Application number: US565586A
Authority: US
Inventors: Ashworth Fred
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1944-11-29
Filing date: 1944-11-29
Publication date: 1946-04-30
Anticipated expiration: 1963-04-30

Description

April 9,1 F. ASHWORTH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1944 [nveniar Fred Ash war 2% Patented Apr. 30, 1946 UNITED STATES 2,399,159 I I SEWING MACHINE r d AshwQrth, W ham Mass, assign r to United sh e achinery C rporati F emington, N. J., a, corporation of New Jersey Application November 29, 1944, Serial No. 565,586

4 Claims. (01. mace) The present invention relates to improvements in moccasin, seam sewing machines more particularly intended for operation on one-piece shoe uppers to insert a seam simulating one utilized to join together the top piece or tongue and the side piece or vamp of a moccasin-type shoe upper.

n e a ple o a curved need e machine w ich may e em loyed s tisfa tor ly to e a. m ca in. sea Joi in toge he thet p n i epieees of a sho pp r s disclosed n United atesliet e s atent '0 th p se t in en or o- 75,9 4, anted. O t ber 934., nd 2 1320, ranted November i 0, ha n a or supp r provided with re' intrant wo k engaging surfaces dispos d at a a gle toea h he nd. e tendi nthe dire tio of. Work eed.- .This type of machine. also is mployed ad anta eously to form a moccasin seam in a o e-p shoe unperther moc a in-t p am se i mach n s mme cial use ar p ovided with two. needles acting upon a one-piece shoe upper While being presented in flattened condition but,.in order to ins re h a r d e mulatin a moccasin seam will be raised, a filler strip o d nari y s e pl yed between the. expo d threads of the eam, and a complex thread handling mechanism is required for connecting the threads inserted by the needles beneath the upper to bind the strip 017113 upper. The use of a filler strip also requires the applica-i tion of additional guiding devices in the machine and increases the cost of operation.

When sewing a one-piece moccasin-type seam with a single curved needle machine such as dis.- v

closed in the inventors patents above referred to, no substantial changes or additions to the machine are required, the upp r being presented to the machine in such a way t at a moccasin seam simulating ridge is raised automatically by the shape of the work supporting and clamping parts and retained by the tension of the stitches 40 inserted.

In order to assist in guiding the formation of a moccasin seam in a oneepiece shoe upper and to increase the resemblance between the one-piece seam and a two piece moccasin seam, it has here.- tofore been the practice to trace along the grain sur ace of a one-pi c upper a l ne co res ondin to the sh pe f t e seam to be in e ted, If, in trac n the uidi i r t e seem, he g ain ay r f the upper i cut Par ially o who l through, the seam while being inserted will draw together the parts of the upper at opposite sides of the slit so cut, giving the appearance of raw edges such as those presented in a two-piece moccasin-type upper.

PATENT OF The object ef the present invention is to improve the construction and mode of operation of a single curved needle machine intended to sew a moccasin seam in a one-piece shoe upper in 5 such a way that the necessit for cutting through the grain layer of the upper to simulate the raw edges of a two-piece moccasin seam in a separate operation before sewing is. unnecessary so that a s m e ut cu at l a at a n o m depth through the grain layer of a one-piece shoe upper exactly ,interseeting the ridge raised in the materialby the seam between'the exposed stitches while the seam is being inserted.

The illustrated form of the machine con.-

structed' to attain this object comprises a work suppo t havin work en ing s rfa e p se ith r lati n eea h other and ten n inthe direction of work feed to tor n an angle, and an te nal nresser hav ng similarly haped work engasingt psnri ces comnlemental t those of the Work support moun ed o ope ate b ween. the. Work. engag ngsurfaees the ork upp r to. .form. a ii.1o e.a 1v s am. simulatin ride n which th it into the angle of the work support opposite the sewing point, and the work slitting knife acts opposite the projection upon the compressed material of the upper to insure formation of the slit at a uniform depth. Also, according to this feature of the invention, the depth of the slit beneath the grain surface of the upper material is limited by gaging means acting adjacent to the cutting edge of the knife.

These and-other features of the invention are embodied in the devices, combinations andar- .1 -angements of parts hereinafter described and ,claimed'the advantages of which will be readily understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing,

in which Fig. 1 is a. view in side elevation, looking from work support of the machine of Fig; 1, partly is prov ded a vkn the cutt n edge 25 o Which intersects theahgle of the work support and is primarily intended to operate on bevel-' edged moccasin parts including a top-piece or tongue and a vamp or side piece of a shoe upper, previously assembled with cement as a temporary connecting agent. The machine also is well adapted for use in sewing a moccasin seam in a one-piece shoe upper such as that indicated in Fig. 3 of the drawing at 2 to raise a U-shaped ridge l about the toe of the shoe both for ornamental as well as structural reinforcing purposes.

During sewing, the seam 4 having exposed portions of the threads maintains an angular shape in the material of the upper as formed by the cooperative action of a work support 6 and a presser 8 in the machine'and draw the sides of the angle together at its apex to produce a peak on the ridge. The upper 2, after sewing the moccasin seam, is lasted in the usual way and attached to a sole member II to complete the shoe.

The illustrated machine is provided with a curved hook needle l4 and a curved work penetrating and feeding awl l6 acting to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, a horn I 8 and other lockstitch forming devices of the usual form. The work is fed through the machine by the movement of the awl while engaging the work toward a position of alinement with the needle so that the needle will enter the perforation formed by the awl. When the awl withdraws from the work, it is backfed the length of a stitch and again penetrates the work.

The upper is clamped in position during formation of each stitch between the work support 6 and the presser 8 which is securedto the end of the horn. The co-operating work engaging surfaces of the work support and presser extend in the direction of feed, are complemental and are disposed in angular relation. The work support is formed in two parts with a reentrant angle between the parts, one of which is already designated by the numeral 6 and the other of which, indicated at 20, is secured to the part 6 by a pair of spaced screws 22, one or more vertical dowels 24 passing through the parts for maintaining the proper alinement. A continuation of the line of division between the parts 6 and 20 of the work support intersects the angle formed by the reentrant work engaging surfaces thereof.

Besides having external angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the same angle as the cooperating surfaces of the work support, the presser tip has a projection 26 located along the line of the seam between the work penetrating positions of the needle and awl substantially opposite the sewing point, the presser tip being cut away to provide a clearance recess for the needle and awl at either side of the projection. The purpose of the projection 25 is to crowd the material of the upper firmly into the apex of the angle formed by the internal'work engaging surfaces of the work support so that the seam 4 will be inserted with uniform spacing of the exposed threads in the stitches along the outer grain surface of the upper. The action of the stitches while drawing the inner sides of the material in the upper together and retaining the materialpermanently in'this relationship avoids the necessity for insorting a filler strip to form the ridge H) as with two-needle machines.

While inserting the seam according to the present invention, a slit 21 entering the grain layer of the upper material at exactly the center of the ridge I0 between the exposed threads in the seam is cut by a flat sheet-metal knife 28 disposed with its cutting edge intersecting the angle of the work engaging surfaces on the work support 6, 20. To secure the knife 28 in place, it is comtructed in the form of a plate and located between the parts 6 and of the work support, having perforations to receive the screws 22 and the dowels at all times.

In order to reinforce the cutting edge of the knife and to limit the depth of the slit cut thereby, a pair of spacing plates 30 are arranged one on either side of the knife with forwardly facing gaging edges extending outwardly from the apex of the angle of the work support suificiently to enable the folded-over material of the upper to bear against the plates. Thus, it is impossible to thrust the upper during formation of the ridge I [I against the knife to increase the depth of the slit.

The cutting edge of the knife is provided by sharpening one edge of a lip 32 extending from the knife opposite the work compressing projection 26 of the presser tip 8. With this arrangement a constant and uniform compression of the material in the upper while being acted upon by the knife is insured. With variations in thickness of the upper material, the presser tip 8 will be held farther away from the knife or allowed to approach closer thereto while maintaining uniform compression of the material against the knife The location of the lip 32 opposite the projection 26 is of further advantage in that, during tipping and turning movements of the upper in presenting it to the machine, there is no tendency for the curved portions of the seam to carry the ridge l0 farther away from or closer to the, cutting edge which is opposite the sewing point in the machine.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a construction embodying the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. In a machine for sewing a moccasin seam in a one-piece shoe upper, having a work support provided with work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an angle and stitch forming devices comprising a single curved needle movable across the angle of said surfaces to enter and emerge from the same side of the work supported by the work support and an internal presser having a tip with work engaging surfaces disposed at the same. angle as that of the work engaging surfaces of the work support, in combination with a work engaging knife intersecting the angle between the work engaging surfaces of the work support and enterin the material of the upper being operated upon between the exposed threads of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices to form a slit along a ridge raised by the seam inserted by the stitch forming devices.

2. In a machine for sewing a moccasin seam in a one-piece shoe upper, having a work support provided with work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an angle, stitch forming devices comprising a curved hook needle movable across the angle of said surfaces to enter and'emerge from the same side of the work supported by the work support and an internal presser having a tip with work engaging surfaces disposed at the same angle as that of the work engaging surfaces of the work support, and a pro jection on the presser tip acting to compres the material of the upper and crowd it into the angle of the work support, in combination with a work engaging knife arranged with its sharpened edge opposite the projection of the presser tip intersecting the angle between the work engaging surfaces of the work support to cut a slit along a ridge raised in the material by the seaminserted by the stitch forming devices.

3. In a machine for sewing a moccasin seam in a one-piece shoe upper, having a two-part work support provided with work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an angle, the line of division between the parts of the work support intersecting the angle of the work engaging surfaces, stitch forming devices comprising a curved hook needle movable across the angle of said surfaces, and an internal presser havin a tip with work engaging surfaces disposed at the same angle as that of the work engaging surfaces of the work support, in combination with a fiat knife clamped along its flat sides between the parts of the work support and arranged with its cutting edge entering the material of the upper being operated upon between the exposed threads of the seam inserted by the stitch forming devices to form a slit along a ridge raised by the seam.

4. In a machine for sewing a moccasin scam in a one-piece shoe upper, having a two-part work support provided with Work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an angle, the line of division between the parts of the work support intersecting the angle of the work engaging surfaces, stitch forming devices comprising a curved hook needle movable across the angle of said surfaces, and an internal presser having a tip with work engaging surfaces disposed at the same angle as that of the work engaging surfaces of the work support, in combination with a flat knife clamped between the parts of the work support and arranged with its cutting edge entering the material of the upper being operated upon between the exposed threads of the seam inserted by the stitch forming device to form a slit along a ridge raised by the seam, and gaging means acting adjacent to the cutting edge of the knife to limit the depth of the slit cut by the knife.

FRED ASHWORTH.