US434155A - leilich - Google Patents
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- US434155A US434155A US434155DA US434155A US 434155 A US434155 A US 434155A US 434155D A US434155D A US 434155DA US 434155 A US434155 A US 434155A
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- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 16
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 8
- 210000003414 Extremities Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 210000001513 Elbow Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 241000234435 Lilium Species 0.000 description 2
- 108060006413 Shal Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 235000015076 Shorea robusta Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 240000007944 Shorea robusta Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000020639 clam Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000000875 corresponding Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000003340 mental Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000003534 oscillatory Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000002093 peripheral Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000036633 rest Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000717 retained Effects 0.000 description 2
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-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B73/00—Casings
- D05B73/04—Lower casings
- D05B73/12—Slides; Needle plates
Definitions
- BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE No. 434,155. Patented.Aug.-12', 1890,.
- My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in button-hole sewingmachines; and the object of my invention is to provide a simple and efficient device for rapidly stitching the sides of a button-hole with a series of stitches composed of two needle-threads, a third thread interlocked with them above the goods, and a fourth thread 2o interlocked with said needle-threads below the goods.
- This peculiar stitch although shown, does not constitute a part of this invention. Duringthe process of stitching the button-hole the same is cut automatically,
- Fig. 6 is a transverse vertical section taken at the line y y of Fig. 1 and looking ⁇ toward the right hand of Fig. 1; Fig. 7, a detail section taken at line Z Z of Fig. 4; Fig.
- Fig. 11 a detail section at line w w of Fig. 6o 1, looking toward the left of such iigure;
- Fig. 12 a detail section taken at line t t of Fig. 1, looking toward the right;
- Fig. 13, a detail plan View of the presser-arm and presserfoot;
- Fig. 14, a detail front elevation of the face-plate, showing ⁇ the lead of the threads;
- Fig. 15, a detail sectional view showing the mechanism whereby the ⁇ purler is operated;
- Fig. 16 a detail side elevation, partly in seetion,taken at right angles to Fig. 15;
- Fig. 17, 7o a detail section at line ss ot Fig.
- Fig.1S a diagrammatic view of a partially-completed button-holeheld in the clamp
- Fig. 19 a similar view, but showing the hole stitched as to one side, partially stitched as to the other side, and partially out
- Fig. 20, a detail-section at line r r of Fig. 2.
- 1 is the hed-plate.
- 2 is the vert-ical rear 8oportion of the arm, and 3 the tubular portion thereof, which carries at its end the needlebar 4, on which two needles 5 are mounted.
- the needle-bar is driven from the main shaft G by a crank-disk and link 7, and upon the rear end of said shaft is a band-wheel 8.
- 9 is the shuttle-shaft extended longitudinally beneath the bed. It is preferably operated from the main shaft by a pitman 10, having at its center a sliding connection with 9o fulcrum 11, a crank-connection with the main shaft, and also a crank-connection with the shuttle-shaft.
- a rotary shuttle system the shuttle of which may, as convenience dictates, be arranged to revolve either in a horizontal or in a vertical plane.
- .Iourroo naled within and transversely to the hollow rear portion of the arm is a shaft 13.
- a shaft 13 Near one end it carries a ratchet-wheel14.
- rlhis ratchetwheel and its shaft and a disk at its other end are actuated from the main shaft through a cam 15, which through an arm and stud 17 (see Figs.
- the adjustment of which the link is capable on the slotted segment admits of a greater or less sweep to the lever, and consequently of avaried engagement by the pawl, so as to move the ratchet-wheel one, two, or more steps at each stitch, as may be found convenient for the accomplishment of the work in hand.
- the lever 2l is preferably f ulcrumed about a screw 23, which is tapped into the center of the shaft 13.
- a cam-groove 24 In the inner face of the ratchet-wheel 13 is cut a cam-groove 24, which through a shoe or roller running therein operates a lever 25 about its fulcrum 2G. (See dotted lines, Fig. 1, and also Figs. G and il.)
- the lower end of this lever, as at 27, is provided with a mental adjusting-slot, with which a link 2S is engaged by a binding-screw, the otherend of said link being pivotally attached to a lever 29, whose upper end is fulcrumed to abracket in the arm and whose lower end projects below the plane of the bed-plate.
- the slide-bar At its rear end the slide-bar carries an upward projection 35, to allow movement for which the bed-plate is slotted, and upon this projection as a base is pivoted an overhanging presser-foot arm 36, carrying at its end an open presser-foot 37,which binds the goods to be scwed to the open clotliplate, thefoot and plate forming a cloth-clamp.
- the 'purpose of the parts just described and indicated by the numerals from 24 to 39, inclusive, is to feed the cloth-plate, presserfoot, and goods forward and back beneath the needle-bar.
- this groove 40 is a cam-groove cut in the outer surface of the ratchet-disk 13.l For the greater part of its circumference this groove is circular as to the center of the disk; but at two points, opposite or nearly so, it has a sharp cam-sun face. This is for the reason that said cam is intended to effect in the elements operated thereby two positive and well-defined movements at each revolution of the ratchet-wheel.
- the pitman 45 is a pitman secured to the slotted block by a binding-screw 4G, so as to be adjustable in the segmental slot at the will of the operator. (See Fig. 4.)
- the outer end of the pitman 45 is pivotally secured to one arm of a bell-crank lever 47, whose elbow is pivoted beneath the bed-plate. 'lhe other arm of the bell-crank is connected through a link 48 to the carriage 33.
- the upper end of the lever 41 is connected by a bar 49 with a bell-crank 50, which latter is pivoted near the end of the arm of the machine.
- the lower arin of the bell-crank is attached to the upper end of a rack o1, arranged to have a vertical movement in ways 52 by means of said bell-crank.
- the rack engages a pinion upon the transverse purlershaft, (see Fig. 5,) and is adapted to impart to the shaft and pot-ler their proper shifting motion at the same time that the shift of the carriage at the under side of the bed is accomplished by means of the lower end of the lever 4l.
- a sleeve 54 At the lower end of the head is arranged a sleeve 54, surrounding the needle bar and movable upon the latter as an axis.
- the central portion of this sleeve (see Figs. 5 and 15) is spirally threaded, the threads being of coarse pitch, and to the number of, say, live or six.
- the lower end of the sleeve has secured thereto the bent purler-linger 55, having an eye at its point, through which the purler-thrcad is led.
- 5G is a shaft journaled transversely to the head just behind the needle-bar, and upon a sleeve 57, splined to said shaft, is mounted a spirally-threaded pinion 5S, similar to and meshing with the spirally-threaded portion of the sleeve.
- a spirally-threaded pinion 5S similar to and meshing with the spirally-threaded portion of the sleeve.
- One end of said shaft projects beyond its journal and carries the pinion 55),
- a grooved collar 60 At the end of the sleeve described as carrying the pinion and as splined to the shaft is a grooved collar 60, which is engaged by pins projecting inwardly from a fork 6l on the end of a downwardly-projectingarm 62.
- the arm 62 is connected to and is moved by a rock-shaft 63, journaled alongside the arm in bearings 64C G5. (See Figs. 2, 3, and 20.)
- a fork G6 At its rear end beyond the bearing said shaft bears a fork G6, engaged by a wipercam 67, which latter (see particularly Figs. 2 and 3) is carried by a gear 68.
- This gear is driven by smaller gear (59 on the main shaft inside the arm, so as to receive one revolution to two of the shaft.
- This combination of elements imparts an axial vibration to the rock-shaft and likewise to the downwardly-extending arm G2.
- the forked end of this arm by engaging the grooved collar on the pinion-carrying sleeve 57 will reciprocate the latter lengthwise of the spline, which is between it and the shaft.
- the purler-finger prior to the traverse has been making its semicircular swing at that side of the needle-bar nearer the arm, so as to lay the purler-thread properly beneath the needles.
- the purler-finger should make its semicircular movement at the outside of the needle-bar-that is, the side farther from the arm-and this change of position is effected through the bell-crank lever, the rack which it operates vertically, andthe pinion 59, engaged.
- That portion of the machine by which the cutting or opening of the button-hole is accomplished is as follows: Within the vertical portion of the arm upon the end of the transverse shaft 13 is a disk 70. (See Figs. 2, 3, 'and 6.) The edge of this disk is engaged by a spring-actuated friction-brake 81, whose function is to prevent any overrunning of the disk or the rachet-wheel which is on the shaft with it when the machineis running at high speed. Said disk has cut in its inner face a cani-groove, (see dotted lines, Fig.
- the segment forms one arm of a bell-crank lever, whose pivotal point is at the end of the segment., (see Fig.' 2,) and the lower arm of the bel ⁇ crank engages a cam 77 on the main shaft, whereby an oscillatory movement is imparted to the bell-crank about its center.
- the link 7 S is Jthe cutter-bar, pivotally secured at its upper end to the outer extremity of the lever 74. Just below its center the bar is fulcrumed on a link 79, and at its lower end it carries a curved and downwardly-extending cutter 80, having an oblique sharp edge at its extremity.
- the cam which operates the connecting-bar the link 7 3 may be pushed outward, so that its roller is at the end of the segment away from the center on which the bellcrank vibrates, or it may be drawn inward, so that its rollerwill be immediately over said center.
- c represents the needle-threads
- d the shuttle-thread
- e the purler-thread
- curved dotted line f the arc through which the pnrlerfin ger travels ⁇ to lay its thread.
- the arm (52, which is operated twice at each turn ot' the gear GS and moves the purler-f'inger through the engagementof the two spiral pinions, operates said purler -finger once across at each movement of the needlebar.
- the ends of all the threads should be laid under the presser-t'oot and securely held by the clam ping action thereof, the needle-threads and purlerthread on top of the goods, and the shuttlethread beneath the goods, as shown at dotted lilies, Figs. 1S and 19.
- the movement of the goods and clamp beneath the needles is effected by means of the lever 2f), connected to the slide-bar by 30, and the length of the stitch may be varied by causing the pawl 22 to engage and turn the ratchet-wheel l-l one tooth at a time or more, which may be accomplished by varying the position of the link 2O in the slotted segment 19.
- Thelength ⁇ of the button-hole is governed by the position of the link 28 in the segment 27, whereby the pivoted lever 25) is made to move through a greater or less distance in any given number of stitches.
- the bight of the stitchis determined by the distance between the needles, and said bight may be varied at will by adjustingI the needles on the bar, so that they may be nearer together or farther apart. They are preferably held in any ordinary adjustable clamp, which I have not thought it necessary to show in detail.
- the combination, with the needle-bar, the needles carried thereon, and the loop-taker, of the purler-finger j ournaled about the needle-bar as an axis, means operated from the main shaft whereby a partial rotation and return is imparted to the purler-iinger relative to the needles, and means, as described, whereby at each end of the button-hole the path of vibration of the purler-finger is altered, whereby said finger operates ahead of the needles both at the forward and at the backward movement of the goods, substantially as set forth.
- the combination with the main shaft, the needlebar and needles, the loop-taker, and the threaded purler-sleeve arranged around the needle-bar and carrying the purler-finger, of the transverse shaft journaled in the head, the sleeve splined thereto and having thereon a spiral pinion, the cam-actuated rock-shaft and arm driven from the main shaft, whereby longitudinal movement along its spline is imparted to the sleeve and pinion, and means, as described, whereby at predetermined times partial rotation may be imparted to the transverse shaft and the purler sleeve turned about the needle-bar,'substantially as specified.
- the lever operated by said cam the slide-bar and cloth-plate arranged in the bed and operated-forward and backward by the lever, and the presser-foot carried upon said and the cam on the main shaft, the feed-lever actuated by the cam on the ratchet-wheel, and the slide-bar and cloth-plate operated lengthwise of the bed by vsaid lever, substantially-as set forth.
- the combination in a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the reciprocating needlebar, the needles, and the loop-taker, ot the purler-sleeve arranged about the needle-bar and the purler-finger depending.
- the transverse shaft having splined thereto a sleeve bearing a spiral pinion engaging the purler-sleeve and having at its end a spur-pinion, the rock-shaft yand depending arm whereby a movement longitudinal of its spline is imparted to the sleeve, and the rack bell-crank and cam-actuated 'lever whereby partial rotation is imparted to the transverse shaft for the shifting of the purleringer, substantially as specilied.
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Description
` s sheets-sheet 1. '(NOMOdeL) T. T. LEILICH.
BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 434,155. 'Patented Aug. 12, 1890.
Ill
8 Sheets-Sheet. 2.
(No Model.)
P. T. LBILICH. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.
PatentedAug. 12, 1890.
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me noms rnznscn., o., mnmcrou, n. c.
(No Model.)
v 8 Sheets-Sheet 3.
F. T. LEILIGH. N BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Aug. 12, 1890. i
(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet v5.
F. T. LEILICH'.
BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 434,155. Patented.Aug.-12', 1890,.
(.No Model.) 8 Sheets-'Sheet 6.
F. T. LBILICH. BUTTGN HOLE SEWING MACHINE.
` 10.434,155.. 'Patented Aug.12,1a9o.
I nu
8 Shets-Sheet 7.
(No Model.)
F. T. LEILIGH. BUTTON EoEE SEWING MACHINE.
No. 434,155. Patented Aug. 12, 1890.
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(No Model.)
s sheetssheet s. V
. T. LEILIGH.
BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Aug. 12, 1890.V
miren STATES PATENT Prion.
FRANCIS T. LEILICII, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE "WHEELER dr VILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.
BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 434,155, dated August 12, 1890.
' Application filed June 8, 1889. Serial No. 313,580. (No model.)
To @ZZ w/tom t may concern:
Be it known that I, FRANCIS T. LEILICH, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport,in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Button-Hole Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be af ull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable oth- Io ers skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.
My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in button-hole sewingmachines; and the object of my invention is to provide a simple and efficient device for rapidly stitching the sides of a button-hole with a series of stitches composed of two needle-threads, a third thread interlocked with them above the goods, and a fourth thread 2o interlocked with said needle-threads below the goods. This peculiar stitch, although shown, does not constitute a part of this invention. Duringthe process of stitching the button-hole the same is cut automatically,
and when the stitching is completed the hole is ready for the button without further manipulation.
lVith these ends in view my invention consists in the construction and combination of 3o co-operat-ing mechanical elements hereinafter fully and in detail set forth, and then recited in the claims.
In order that those skilled in the art to which my invention appertains may fully 3 5 understand its construction and operation, I
will describe the same in detail, reference being had to the accompanying' drawings, which form a part of this specification, and in which- Figure 1 is an elevation, partly in section, of the front side ot my machine, the looptaking mechanism being removed; Fig. 2,
a similar view from the rear side, showing the loop-taking mechanism; Fig. 3, a
plan view, parts of t-he arm being broken away to show the mechanism within; Fig. 4,
f a plan view of the bed-plate, a portion of which is shown as broken away; Fig. 5, an end elevation, the face-plate being removed 5o and a part of the head sectioned. This view is full size. Fig. 6 is a transverse vertical section taken at the line y y of Fig. 1 and looking` toward the right hand of Fig. 1; Fig. 7, a detail section taken at line Z Z of Fig. 4; Fig.
8, a detail section at line 0c a: of Fig. 7; Fig. 5 5 9, a detail of the lever which appears at the left of the interior Aof the arm at Fig. 6; Fig. 10, a transverse section taken at line u u of Fig. 2, looking toward the right hand of Fig.
2; Fig. 11, a detail section at line w w of Fig. 6o 1, looking toward the left of such iigure; Fig. 12, a detail section taken at line t t of Fig. 1, looking toward the right; Fig. 13, a detail plan View of the presser-arm and presserfoot; Fig. 14, a detail front elevation of the face-plate, showing` the lead of the threads; Fig. 15, a detail sectional view showing the mechanism whereby the` purler is operated; Fig. 16, a detail side elevation, partly in seetion,taken at right angles to Fig. 15; Fig. 17, 7o a detail section at line ss ot Fig. 15; Fig.1S,a diagrammatic view of a partially-completed button-holeheld in the clamp; Fig. 19, a similar view, but showing the hole stitched as to one side, partially stitched as to the other side, and partially out; Fig. 20, a detail-section at line r r of Fig. 2.
Like reference-numbers denote I the same parts in all the figures otl the drawings.
1 is the hed-plate. 2 is the vert-ical rear 8oportion of the arm, and 3 the tubular portion thereof, which carries at its end the needlebar 4, on which two needles 5 are mounted. The needle-bar is driven from the main shaft G by a crank-disk and link 7, and upon the rear end of said shaft is a band-wheel 8.
9 is the shuttle-shaft extended longitudinally beneath the bed. It is preferably operated from the main shaft by a pitman 10, having at its center a sliding connection with 9o fulcrum 11, a crank-connection with the main shaft, and also a crank-connection with the shuttle-shaft.
12 is a loop-taking device driven from the outer end of the shuttle-shaft. lVhile any lock-stitch-sewing device might be employed,
I prefer and have shown the rotary shuttle system,the shuttle of which may, as convenience dictates, be arranged to revolve either in a horizontal or in a vertical plane. .Iourroo naled within and transversely to the hollow rear portion of the arm is a shaft 13. {See Figs. 3 and (5.) Near one end it carries a ratchet-wheel14. (Shown at the figures above referred to and also at lFig. 1.) rlhis ratchetwheel and its shaft and a disk at its other end, which will be hereinafter more particularly referred to, are actuated from the main shaft through a cam 15, which through an arm and stud 17 (see Figs. 3 and 6) imparts axial to-and-fro movement to a short rock-shaft 1S, j ournaled above the ratchet. This rock-sh af t has upon its outer end a downwardly-extcnding and segmentally -slotted arm 1.9. (See Fig. 1.) By means of a link 20, adjustable in the segment, a to-and-fro movement about its fulcrum-point is imparted to a lever 2l, whose upper end is provided with an inwardly-projecting pivoted pawl 22, which engages the peripheral teeth on the ratchet. The adjustment of which the link is capable on the slotted segment admits of a greater or less sweep to the lever, and consequently of avaried engagement by the pawl, so as to move the ratchet-wheel one, two, or more steps at each stitch, as may be found convenient for the accomplishment of the work in hand. The lever 2l is preferably f ulcrumed about a screw 23, which is tapped into the center of the shaft 13.
In the inner face of the ratchet-wheel 13 is cut a cam-groove 24, which through a shoe or roller running therein operates a lever 25 about its fulcrum 2G. (See dotted lines, Fig. 1, and also Figs. G and il.) The lower end of this lever, as at 27, is provided with a mental adjusting-slot, with which a link 2S is engaged by a binding-screw, the otherend of said link being pivotally attached to a lever 29, whose upper end is fulcrumed to abracket in the arm and whose lower end projects below the plane of the bed-plate. (See Figs. l, 4, and (i.) rlhc lower end of this leveris univcrsally jointed to a link SO, whose outerend is adjustably secured to a slide-bar 3l, upon the forward end of which is mounted the cloth-platei. 'lhe slide-bar has its bearing in ways formed in a carriage 33, which may be moved transverselyto the bed in ways 5:34, in which it is mounted. The means for effecting th is transverse movement will be presen t ly described. At its rear end the slide-bar carries an upward projection 35, to allow movement for which the bed-plate is slotted, and upon this projection as a base is pivoted an overhanging presser-foot arm 36, carrying at its end an open presser-foot 37,which binds the goods to be scwed to the open clotliplate, thefoot and plate forming a cloth-clamp. A slot ISS at the base of the presser-foot arm,in which is arranged a cam 39, serves, in connection with said cam, to effect the clamping of the foot downward or its release.
The 'purpose of the parts just described and indicated by the numerals from 24 to 39, inclusive, is to feed the cloth-plate, presserfoot, and goods forward and back beneath the needle-bar.
40 is a cam-groove cut in the outer surface of the ratchet-disk 13.l For the greater part of its circumference this groove is circular as to the center of the disk; but at two points, opposite or nearly so, it has a sharp cam-sun face. This is for the reason that said cam is intended to effect in the elements operated thereby two positive and well-defined movements at each revolution of the ratchet-wheel.
41 is a lever pivoted outside the arm at 42 and connected to the cam-groove just described by a stud or roll, which projects inward through a slot in the arm-plate. (Sec Fig. 1L) The lower end of this lever (see Figs. 4, 7, and 8) is attached by a universal joint to a segmentally-slotted block 43, which is pivotally attached to a bracket 44 on the under side of the bed-plate.
45 is a pitman secured to the slotted block by a binding-screw 4G, so as to be adjustable in the segmental slot at the will of the operator. (See Fig. 4.) The outer end of the pitman 45 is pivotally secured to one arm of a bell-crank lever 47, whose elbow is pivoted beneath the bed-plate. 'lhe other arm of the bell-crank is connected through a link 48 to the carriage 33. (See Fig. 4.)
The parts just. described and identified by numerals from 40 to 4S serve to shift the earriagc 33, and with it the slide bar, cloth-plate, dac., transversely at. the time when the end of the longitudinal feeding movement of the carriage has been reached, so that the return movement of the cloth beneath the needles may be in line parallel with the line of stitches already made.
The upper end of the lever 41 is connected by a bar 49 with a bell-crank 50, which latter is pivoted near the end of the arm of the machine. The lower arin of the bell-crank is attached to the upper end of a rack o1, arranged to have a vertical movement in ways 52 by means of said bell-crank. The rack engages a pinion upon the transverse purlershaft, (see Fig. 5,) and is adapted to impart to the shaft and pui-ler their proper shifting motion at the same time that the shift of the carriage at the under side of the bed is accomplished by means of the lower end of the lever 4l.
The mechanism whereby the purler-iinger is operated will now be described. At the lower end of the head is arranged a sleeve 54, surrounding the needle bar and movable upon the latter as an axis. The central portion of this sleeve (see Figs. 5 and 15) is spirally threaded, the threads being of coarse pitch, and to the number of, say, live or six. The lower end of the sleeve has secured thereto the bent purler-linger 55, having an eye at its point, through which the purler-thrcad is led.
5G is a shaft journaled transversely to the head just behind the needle-bar, and upon a sleeve 57, splined to said shaft, is mounted a spirally-threaded pinion 5S, similar to and meshing with the spirally-threaded portion of the sleeve. One end of said shaft projects beyond its journal and carries the pinion 55),
IOO
rio
heretofore described as engaged and adapted to be turned by the rack 5l. At the end of the sleeve described as carrying the pinion and as splined to the shaft is a grooved collar 60, which is engaged by pins projecting inwardly from a fork 6l on the end of a downwardly-projectingarm 62. (See Figs. 2, 5, and 17.) The arm 62 is connected to and is moved by a rock-shaft 63, journaled alongside the arm in bearings 64C G5. (See Figs. 2, 3, and 20.) At its rear end beyond the bearing said shaft bears a fork G6, engaged by a wipercam 67, which latter (see particularly Figs. 2 and 3) is carried by a gear 68. This gear is driven by smaller gear (59 on the main shaft inside the arm, so as to receive one revolution to two of the shaft. This combination of elements, as will be readily understood, imparts an axial vibration to the rock-shaft and likewise to the downwardly-extending arm G2. The forked end of this arm by engaging the grooved collar on the pinion-carrying sleeve 57 will reciprocate the latter lengthwise of the spline, which is between it and the shaft. At each traverse of the sleeve the spiral pin- -ion on the latter will impart to the spirallythreaded sleeve around the needle-bar and to the finger on said sleeve a half-revolution, so that as the machine runs the purler-finger will be swung Yin a half-circle and return at every other stitch. When the forward movement of the carriage has ceased and the stitching of the first side of the button-hole is completed, the traversing movement of the goods takes place to bring said goods into proper position for effecting the stitching of the second side of the hole parallel with -the first side, and as soon as this traverse has taken place the reverse or backward movement of the goods commences. The purler-finger prior to the traverse has been making its semicircular swing at that side of the needle-bar nearer the arm, so as to lay the purler-thread properly beneath the needles. At the reverse movement of the goods it becomes necessary that' the purler-finger should make its semicircular movement at the outside of the needle-bar-that is, the side farther from the arm-and this change of position is effected through the bell-crank lever, the rack which it operates vertically, andthe pinion 59, engaged. by said rack and secured on the end of the transverse shaft to which the sleeve is `rotation of the purler is effected in exactly the same 'manner as at the forward movement of the cloth, except that the arc through which it vibrates has been altered, so that it will sweep from side to side outside the needlebar, instead of inside, as in the first or forward movement of the goods.
That portion of the machine by which the cutting or opening of the button-hole is accomplished is as follows: Within the vertical portion of the arm upon the end of the transverse shaft 13 is a disk 70. (See Figs. 2, 3, 'and 6.) The edge of this disk is engaged by a spring-actuated friction-brake 81, whose function is to prevent any overrunning of the disk or the rachet-wheel which is on the shaft with it when the machineis running at high speed. Said disk has cut in its inner face a cani-groove, (see dotted lines, Fig. 2,) which groove is cut so as to impart a short forward and a similar backward movement at each revolution to a lever 7l, fulcrumed at its lower end to the arm, and whose upper end projects outward through a slot at the top of the arm. To the end of this lever is pivotallyT attached a connecting-bar 72, whose outer extremityis pivoted to a link 73. The 1in-k 73 has its upper end pivotally secured to a lever 74, which latter is fulcrumed near its center to a bracket 75 and its lower end engaging by a stud or roll a segment 7G, in which it is movable by means of the connecting-bar. The segment forms one arm of a bell-crank lever, whose pivotal point is at the end of the segment., (see Fig.' 2,) and the lower arm of the bel`crank engages a cam 77 on the main shaft, whereby an oscillatory movement is imparted to the bell-crank about its center.
7 S is Jthe cutter-bar, pivotally secured at its upper end to the outer extremity of the lever 74. Just below its center the bar is fulcrumed on a link 79, and at its lower end it carries a curved and downwardly-extending cutter 80, having an oblique sharp edge at its extremity. By means of the cam which operates the connecting-bar the link 7 3 may be pushed outward, so that its roller is at the end of the segment away from the center on which the bellcrank vibrates, or it may be drawn inward, so that its rollerwill be immediately over said center. When in the former position,the segment on the bell-crank, through the link and lever, imparts to the cutter-bar and cutter a vertically-reciprocatory movement, its sharp oblique edge piercing the fabric between the two lines of stitching at each downward stroke. Vhen the cam-groove in the disk draws the link 73 backward, so that its end rests in the segment over the center of the bell-crank, said link and the lever assume the position shown by the dotted line a, Fig. 2. Thereby the cutter-bar is raised and by its fulcrum-link drawn inward, so thatits centerline is as appears at dotted line b, Fig. 2, and the cutter is drawn upward and inward, as shown at Fig. 2. )Vhile the end of the link is over the center of the bell-crank it derives no motion therefrom and none is transmitted to the cutter-bar. goods, while the cutter is out of action, it will On the forward motion of the` IIO be remembered that the swing of the purlerfinger is inside the needle-bar. At this time the cutter is raised and inactive, and the movement of said finger is in no way interferred with. On the backward movement of the goods the cutter operates just behind (in point of time) the needles and purler, so that the hole is eut step by step simultaneously with the stitching of the second side of the button-hole. Meanwhile the purler-fingers moving in the arc of a circle to and fro outside the needle-bar.
In the diagrammatic Figs. 1S and lf), c represents the needle-threads, d the shuttle-thread, e the purler-thread, and the curved dotted line f the arc through which the pnrlerfin ger travels` to lay its thread.
The operation of my invention is as follows: At each turn of the main shaft, whereby a downward stroke ot' the needles is effected, the loops from both needles are taken by the shuttle and the single shuttle-thread interlocked with them. Just prior to the descent of the needles the purler-tinger swings to one side and lays the purler-thread, which is led to the finger from any convenient spool and through any ordinary tension just behind the needles, (sce Fig. 18,) one ot' which at their descent locks the pnrler-thread. Before the next downward movement of the needles the parler-finger has moved through its arc, (see curved dotted linef, Figs. 1S and 19,) and so lays the parler-thread again behind the needles, the opposite one of which locks it in its descent. Meanwhile the goods held in the clamp are advanced one step at each descent of the needle-bar. This effects the feed or longitudinal spacing between the stitches and the zigzag line in which the purler-thread is laid between each alternate stitch on one side and each alternate stitch on the other side. This interlocking with the alternate stitches arises from the lact that the gear GS only derives one turn from the gear 69 to two turns of the main shal't and said gear. Consequently the arm (52, which is operated twice at each turn ot' the gear GS and moves the purler-f'inger through the engagementof the two spiral pinions, operates said purler -finger once across at each movement of the needlebar. In starting the bnttonhole the ends of all the threads should be laid under the presser-t'oot and securely held by the clam ping action thereof, the needle-threads and purlerthread on top of the goods, and the shuttlethread beneath the goods, as shown at dotted lilies, Figs. 1S and 19. The movement of the goods and clamp beneath the needles is effected by means of the lever 2f), connected to the slide-bar by 30, and the length of the stitch may be varied by causing the pawl 22 to engage and turn the ratchet-wheel l-l one tooth at a time or more, which may be accomplished by varying the position of the link 2O in the slotted segment 19. Thelength `of the button-hole is governed by the position of the link 28 in the segment 27, whereby the pivoted lever 25) is made to move through a greater or less distance in any given number of stitches. Through combined adjustments of the links in the segments 19 27 any length of button-hole within the limit of the machine may be made and variations in the number of stitches in any given length of hole be readily accomplished. l/Vhen the feeding and stitching of the first side of the button-hole have progressed to the length prescribed by segment 27 and its connections, the sidewise movement of the carriage, which brings an unsewed surface of the goods beneath the needle-bar, is accomplished through the lower portion of the lever All, operated by the groove in the face of the ratchet-wheel, the swinging block beneath the bed-plate, and the links and bell-crank 47. This movement traverses the carriage 33, and as the slide-bar carrying the cloth-plate has a bearing in this carriage it will be readily seen that the goods are traversed under the needles. The length of the traverse, which determines the distance between the two lines of stitching, maybe va- I'ied by means of the segment in which the screw 4G binds. The time required to make the traverse and which is determined by the incline of the cam in the outer face of the ratchet-wheel, I prefer to arrange to cover four downward strokes of the needle-bar. This may be varied but I find that four strokes of said bar effects .the barring of the end of the bntton-hole sufficiently well for all practical purposes. As shown at the right hand of diagrammatic Fig. 1f), the first stroke after the traverse begins lands the inside needle just across the median line between the rows of stitching. The vne.\;t,thelast forward movementintervening, lands the two needles exactly astride the median line. The third, the first backward feeding movement intervening, lands the needles slightly astridc the inside needle-hole of the first barringstitch and in line therewith, and at the next and last traversing movement the needles pierce the cloth at the proper distance from the first line on stitching with which the sccond line now commenced is parallel. Simultaneously with the shift of the goods the change of the are through which the pnrlerfinger moves is efl'ected by the upper end of the lever 41, the connection 4),bell-c1ank 50, and the rack and pinion operated by said bell-crank, and this change of the purlerfinger relative to the needle-bar is accomplished in four steps corresponding to the four steps of the cloth-clamp in the operation of barring'. When the backward movement for effecting the second line of stitching commences, the cutter-bar and cutter, which theretofore have been retained out of action and in the position shown at Fig. i), dotted lines, are thrown downward by means of the cam-actuated lever 71 and connection 72, the link 7f3 being at the same time pushed outward away from the pivotal point of the constantly-vibrating bell-crank 7G, so that a substantially vertical reciprocating movement is imparted to the cutterbar and cnt- IOO TIO
rgo
ter at each turn of the main shaft. Thismovement of the cutter causes the latter to pierce the goods simultaneously with the stitching of the second side of the buttonhole and one or two steps behind the' needlebar. At this time, as heretofore explained, the purler-finger is operating at the outside of the needle-bar, so that the free movement of the cutter-bar is in no wise interfered with. The relat-ive positions of the purler-linger and cutter at this time are shown in the diagrammatic Fig. 19.
The bight of the stitchis determined by the distance between the needles, and said bight may be varied at will by adjustingI the needles on the bar, so that they may be nearer together or farther apart. They are preferably held in any ordinary adjustable clamp, which I have not thought it necessary to show in detail.
I claiml. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the needle-bar, the needles carried thereon, and the loop-taker, of the purler-finger j ournaled about the needle-bar as an axis, means operated from the main shaft whereby a partial rotation and return is imparted to the purler-iinger relative to the needles, and means, as described, whereby at each end of the button-hole the path of vibration of the purler-finger is altered, whereby said finger operates ahead of the needles both at the forward and at the backward movement of the goods, substantially as set forth.
2. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the main shaft, the needlebar and needles, the loop-taker, and the threaded purler-sleeve arranged around the needle-bar and carrying the purler-finger, of the transverse shaft journaled in the head, the sleeve splined thereto and having thereon a spiral pinion, the cam-actuated rock-shaft and arm driven from the main shaft, whereby longitudinal movement along its spline is imparted to the sleeve and pinion, and means, as described, whereby at predetermined times partial rotation may be imparted to the transverse shaft and the purler sleeve turned about the needle-bar,'substantially as specified.
3. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the needle-bar, the needles,
' the loop-taker, and th e vibratory purler-iin ger,
of the ratchet-wheel having therein a calngroove, the lever operated by said cam, the slide-bar and cloth-plate arranged in the bed and operated-forward and backward by the lever, and the presser-foot carried upon said and the cam on the main shaft, the feed-lever actuated by the cam on the ratchet-wheel, and the slide-bar and cloth-plate operated lengthwise of the bed by vsaid lever, substantially-as set forth.
5. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the stitching mechanism, of the cloth-clamp andpresser-foot, the slidebar and the carriage in which it has its bearing, and the means for imparting to said slide-bar its longitudinal movement, the bell crank-lever connected to the carriage, the swinging block to which the said bell-crank is also connected, and the cam-actuated lever whereby said block is turned and the traverse of thc carriage accomplished, substantially as set forth.
6. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the reciprocating needlebar, the needles, and the loop-taker, ot the purler-sleeve arranged about the needle-bar and the purler-finger depending. from said Sleeve, the transverse shaft having splined thereto a sleeve bearing a spiral pinion engaging the purler-sleeve and having at its end a spur-pinion, the rock-shaft yand depending arm whereby a movement longitudinal of its spline is imparted to the sleeve, and the rack bell-crank and cam-actuated 'lever whereby partial rotation is imparted to the transverse shaft for the shifting of the purleringer, substantially as specilied.
7. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the stitching devices and IOO vthe purler and means for vibrating` the same,
and the longitudinally-iuovable slide bar and cloth-plate arranged in Ways in a carriage in the bed, of the ratchet-wheel within the arm, the cam in said wheel, and the leveral, operated by said cam, the bell-crank and connections whereby the lower end of said lever operates to traverse the carriage, and the bellcrank, connecting-rod, and rack and pinion, wherebythe upper end of said lever operates to rotate the transverse shaftv in the head of the machine and to change the path of vibration of the purler-finger, substantially as set forth.
8. The combination, with the stitching devices, the purler, and the feeding mechanism in a machine of the character described, of the cutter-bar arranged in the head of the machine and carrying the cutter,lthe cam-operated segment driven from the main shaft,
TIO
im,T mechanism, and the vibratory purler-nger, of the vertically-sliding cutter-bar and cutter, the vibratory segment driven from the mein shaft, the lever and link whereby the cutter-bar is connected to said segment, the connection 72, and the cmu-actuated lever whereby through said connection the euttcr-bzir is thrown into action or is withdrawn from operative position, substantially :Ls specified.
l0. Iii-:L button-hole sewing-machine, the combination7 with the stitching mechanism and the purler, the cloth-clamp and slide-bnr, and the carriage in which they are mounted, of the trainsveree shaft it the rearof the arm, the ratchet-wheel mounted at one end of said shaft :md the disk at the other end, the eam- :Lct'untcd bell-crank driven from the main shaft and the ratchet-driving pziwls operated from said bell-crank, Jthe cam :it one side of the ratchet-Wheel and the connections with said cam whereby the longitudinal feeding of the goods is accomplished, the cam at the other side of seid wheel and the lever operated by said cani, whereby the traverse of the carriage and the shift of the purler are zieeomplished, and the cern in the disk 70 and its connection with the cutter-bnr, whereby the latter is caused to operate or is withdrawn from action, substantially as set forth.
In testiinonywhereof Ialiix my Signature in presence of two witnesses.
FRANCIS l. LEILICIL XVitnesses:
S. II. HUBBARD, M. C. HINCHCLIFFE.
Publications (1)
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US434155A true US434155A (en) | 1890-08-12 |
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US434155D Expired - Lifetime US434155A (en) | leilich |
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