US43106A - Improvement in plaited shirt-bosoms - Google Patents

Description

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ABRAHAM DREY, or BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

lMPP OVEMENTlN PLAITED SHlPtT-BOSOMS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 43, I06, dated June 14, 1864, antedatcd June 5, 1864.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ABRAHAM DkEY, of the city and county of Baltimore, State of Maryland, have inventedla new andIm proved Mode of Ilaiting Shirt'Bosoms; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, making a part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 represents my improved shirtbosom when it is finished. Fig. 2 shows an edge view of the bosom. Figs. 3 and 4 show the mode of applying the outer material to the lining or backing.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

The object of this invention is to manufacture shirtbosoms which, while they have all the appearance of the common, fine, fullplaited bosom, will require less fine material, less fine sewing, and less labor than such bosoms.

The invention consists in a new mode of applying the fine material, which is to form the plaits, to a lining or backing, which is to preserve the form of the plaits when made, whereby I am enabled to produce each plait and toattach the same to the lining or backing at one and the same operation, said plaits being so formed and applied to the lining that the sewing will not be exposed to view and need not therefore be as neat as ordinary stitching, as will be hereinafter described.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will describe its construction.

It is desirable to employ in the manufacture of theimproved bosoms a very cheap material for thebacking or lining of the shirt-bosoms, and a fine and more expensive material for the outside of the bosom, and in describing my invention I shall distinguish these two materials by using the words cotton and linen, al though any kind of cloth may be employed. A piece of linen of any desirable width and length is spread over a flat surface and smoothed out, and parallel lines are marked on its inside surface at equal distances apart. These lines are intended to serve as guides in folding and ridging the lines, so that all the plaits will be of a uniform width. The linen may be creased at each line, either by hand or by machinery,

suitably adapted to the purpose for the purpose of facilitating the sewing of it to the cotton backing. The cotton backing is also marked ofl' in parallel lines, which are not the same distance apart as the lines or creases upon the linen. The width of the spaces between the lines on the cotton determines the distances for the ridges on the linen, and the lines or creases on the linen determine the amount of material to be put in each plait, as will be hereinafter described. Having prepared the two pieces of cloth in this way, 1 proceed to put them together and to form the plaits in the follow in g manner: I commenceby spreading the cotton backing at out smoothly and bringing one of the creases b in the linen on a line with one of the marks made on the cotton lining a. Ithen sew through the two thicknesses of linen and through the lining, as near to the edge of the crease b as possible, the upper piece of cloth being in the condition or position shown in Fig. 4 during this operation. The linen is now drawn over the crease or ridge b thus formed, as shown in Fig. 3, forming the fold c, which is afterward ironed .down, so as to present the flat and smooth appearance shown in Figs. 1 and 4. The next crease in the linen is then brought even with the next line 'on the cotton and sewed down as before, thus forming the first plait. The plaits are in this manner formed by stitching the linen to the lining a, each row of stitching forming one plait and attaching the same to the cotton lining. It Will be seen from this description that every row of stitching is covered by the succeeding plait or fold, and hence it will not be necessary to have the sewing as neat as it is required in plaited bosoms hitherto made, wherein all the stitches are seen on the surface of the bosom. In thus applying the creased linen to the cotton backing, 1 form a ridge, 1), and a fold, a, which latter should project sufficiently far over to prevent the stitches (seam) from being seen. The ridges I) serve to elevate the folds and to give to the bosom when finished the appearance of being full plaited, although only one half of the linen in my bosom is required to. form these plaits or imitation plaits.

I accomplish by this invention two very important obj ects'-viz., a great economyin linen and a saving of labor, whether the work be done by hand or by machinery. The fullplaited bosoms require three thicknesses of linen for each plait, the folds all being required of an equal width, and as these extra thicknesses do not add any strength or durability to the bosom, there is a large amount of linen necessarily consumed, which is saved by my invention.

If it is desired, the linen may be stitched in ridges previously to sewing it to the cotton lining, and then in applying this ridged linen to the lining the rows of stitching may be made along the previously made ridges. 7

It is also obvious that the linen may be ap plied directly to the shirt, so that the cotton bosom of the shirt Will form the lining, and this mode I now practice, but in order to save expense when the shirting material or body stutt' is high it is desirable'to cut the space out of the body stuff and insert a coarser and cheaper material therein as the backing to the bosoms. I consider both modes one and the same thing. I

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- Uniting the surface ridged or creased material to the shirting or back lining of shirtbosoins, by stitching through the creases or ridges and through the lining, substantially in the manner described.

ABRAHAM DREY.

Witnesses:

R0131. W. FENwroK, E. SCHAFER.

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