US409184A - Chart for drafting garments - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 7

H. P. PIKE. CHART FUR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 409,184. Patented Aug. 20, 1889.,

Ezzyffize a FETERS. Phalomhograpfier. wamn m n c UNITED STATES.

arnnr HENRY P. FIKE, OF OI'IILI, INDIANA.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 409,184, dated August 20, 1889.

Application filed June 29,1889. Serial No. 316,036. (No model.)

.To all 3071,0712 it may concern:

Be it known thatl, HENRY P. FIKE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chili, in the county of Miami and State of Indiana, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Devices for Use in Dress-Cutting; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

This invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in the peculiar construction of the chart or rule, as hereinafter more fully described, and then pointed out in the appended claims, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which, with the letters of reference marked thereon, form a part of this specification, and which will aid materially in the understanding of my invention.

In the said drawings, Figure 1 is a view of what I term a curve shape. Fig. 2 is a view of the reverse side thereof. Fig. 3 shows a pattern of a basque-front. Fig. a shows a pattern of a French back. Fig. 5 shows a pattern of a side body. Fig. 6 shows a pattern of an under-arm gore. Fig. 7 shows a pattern of the sidebodyindicated by dotted linesin Fig. 4, showing how it may be drafted separately from the back. Fig. 8 shows the sleeve-chart. Fig. 9 represents a portion of a square.

The curve shape shown in Figs. 1 and 2 has designated thereon the points of starting and a measure for the front neck, as shown at a, and a measure for the back neck, as shown at h.

The sleeve-chart shown. in Fig. 8 is formed with along curve candashorter curve (1, with a top curve 6. The long. curve is graduated, as shown at f, with numbers corresponding upon each side of the center, and with holes 9 numbered to correspond with the numbers around the long curve. A star 7L is also provided on this sleeve-chart.

To lay out a pattern or plan for asleeve, I proceed as follows: Draw a line around the long curve for outside seam-for both upper and under part of sleeve to the numbers corresponding with the length. of the sleeve measure at each end of the chart. The holes nearer the edge of the short curve give the width of the upper part of the sleeve, and the holes nearer the center give the width of the under part of the sleeve, and are numbered the same as on the long curve. Make a dot at each hole corresponding to the length of the sleeve for the inside seam of the upper and under part of the sleeve. Bring the short curve of the chart to the dots marked, placing the point of the chart at the star h on the dot at the top of sleeve and draw lines for the inside seam along the short curve to the dots at the lower end of the sleeve. Draw a line for the top of the upper part of the sleeve along the top curve of the chart, dividing equally the distance from the points of the long and short curves. For the top of the under part of the sleeve, place the point of the chart at the star on the dot at the top of the line for outside seam and draw a line along the top curve of chart through the dots at the top of the line for inside seam.

The numbers on the sleeve-ehart are all even numbers. If the measure should be an odd numbersay, 23draw a line from 22 at the lower end of the chart to 24: at the top, and so in case of anyodd number.

For the purpose of this description. we will I suppose the measure to be as follows: neckmeasure, eleven inches; shoulder-measure, five and one-half inches; arm-size measure, eleven inches; bust-measure, thirty-three inches; waist-111easure, twenty-three inches; front measure, twelve inches; length-of-back measure, fourteen inches; under-arm measure, seven. inches; width-otbaek measure, thirteen and one-half inches; sleevea'neasure, twenty two inches.

To draft for front polonaise and basque, draw the line 1; then draw line 3 at right angles thereto two and threefourths inches from the line 2; then draw line 13 square, or at right angles to line 1 and distant from line 3 one-half the length of the arm-size measure; then draw the line \V at right angles to the line 1, distant from line B the length of the under arm measure less one-half inch. The

Measure down from line 2 on line 1 two inches for a seven-inch neck-measure, and every additional inch in neck size one-quarter inch more. A neck-size therefore of nine inches requires two and one-half inches. Place starting for front-neck curve on the curve shown in Figs. 1 and 2 at given point on line 1, and bring the number corresponding with neck size measure on line 2 and draw the line N. Apply length of front measure on the line 1 from the line N to the line XV. If front measure comes above or below the given point of line N on line 1, said point may be raised or lowered, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 3, never changing, however, the given point on the line 2. Place thejnnction of the square at the intersection of thelines N and 2, bringing the seven-and-on e-half-inch mark on the line 3, and draw the line S the exact length of the shoulder-measure. Draw the line 5 parallel with the line 3, so as to cross line Sat the point of shoulder-measure. Then draw the line 6, at right angles to the line 2, to the line B,so that it will cross the line 5 three-fourths of aninch from the point of shoulder. Draw the line 7 parallel with the line B, so that it will cross line 6 one and one-fourth inch from the line 1). Place the starting for the front arm-size on the long curve at the intersection of the lines 7 and 6, and draw the line A to a point of shoulder at the intersection of the lines 5 and S. Place the 17 neck-mark on the neck-curve at the intersection of the lines 0 and 7 and draw the line A below the line 7 through the intersection of the lines B and U. Draw the line 4E so that on line 1 it will be four and on line U two inches from the line B. On the line it is two inches from the line 1 to the first dart. Allow one inch between darts.

Find width of dart-s by calculation, and point oft center of each dart 011 the line NV. The center lines of darts below the line W run parallel with the line 1. The outer lines of darts are drawn so as to cross center lines eleven inches below the line W. The point of each dart on the line 4t is one-half inch farther from the line 1 than the center of each is on'the line \V. Continue center lines from the line \V to the point of each dart on the line 4. Draw outer lines from thelinelV to point of darts on the line 4 over curve end of square, bringing the end of the curve exactly on the point of dart. Measure down line U from line W just fourinches and draw line 8 at right angles from the line U. Place the point of curve endof'square at intersection of the lines U and W and draw line F so as to cross line 8 onein-ch from the line U.

It is believed that it is not necessary to describe the manner of drafting the patterns shown in the remaining figures. The principie is the same.

What I claim as new is As an improved dress-cutting chart or rule, the chart or rule herein described, provided with a curved front-neck measure a, acurved back-neck measure Z),for1ning a continuation of the curve of the part a, and marks indicating the starting-points upon opposite sides of said rule or chart, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two witnesses.

HENRY P. FIKE.

WVitnesses:

HENRY C. STRONG, N o'r'r N. ANTRIM.

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