US392581A - arnold - Google Patents

Description

6 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

S. ARNOLD.

THUMB INSERTION MACHINE.

Patented Nov. 13,1888

6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

S. ARNOLD.

THUMB INSERTION MACHINE.

No. 392,581. Patented Nov. 13,1888;

N. PETERS. Pholo-Lilhographan Wflillinglon. u. c.

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3-. S. ARNOLD.

THUMB INSERTION MACHINE. No. 392,581. Patented Nov. 13, 188%.

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. No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 4. S. ARNOLD.

- THUMB INSERTION MACEINE.

No. 392,581. Patented Nov. 13; 1888.

lLIl' N. PEI'ERS, Halo-Lithographer. Wad-1i nnnnnn C.

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

S. ARNOLD.

THUMB INSERTION MACHINE.

No. 392,581.- Patented Nov. 13,1888

m l t I ZZ/ZM/d a? 6 W (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

S. ARNOLD.

THUMB INSERTION MACHINE. No. 392,581. Patented Nov. 13, 1888.

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NrrEn STATES PATENT @rrrca SATTERLEE ARNOLD, OF MORRISIOWN, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO ANNA 1n. ARNOLD, or SAME PLACE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 392,581, dated November 13, 1888.

Application filed May 31, 1887. Serial No. 239,734. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, SATTERLEE ARNOLD, of Morristown, county of Morris, and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and 5 useful Improvements in Thumb-Insertion Machines, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon.

My invention has relation to a machine or apparatus especially designed for inserting thumbs or thumbpieces in gloves or mitts, but which is applicable for insertion or union of other pieces or articles requiring like care 1 and attention and involving like difficulties,

which machine I call a thumb-insertion machine.

The object of my invention is to provide or produce a simple and efficient machine or apparatus by which the part or piece to be in serted may be quickly, casil y, and accurately brought to the desired size and shape,clamped and folded upon the piece or part with which it is to be connected, and then transferred to aposition beneath the sewing-machine needle, by which the necessary feeding and guiding are automatically regulated, in which various adjustments adapt the machine for use in connection with any thickness of material 0 and the varying sizes of gloves or like articles, and by which the desired work may be rapidly and easily performed without fatiguing the operator. To accomplish all of this my invention involves certain new and useful 5 arrangements or combinations of parts and principles of operation, as will be herein first fully described, and then pointed out in the claims.

Thumbs or thumb-pieces have heretofore 40 been inserted in fabric gloves and mitts for the most part by the use of the ordinary sewingmachine, the operator after first securing a short section folding the edge or margin of the hole in theglove upon itself,short portions at a. time, then placing the folded edge upon the piece to be inserted, then advancing the two pieces thus held together under the press er-foot of an ordinary sewing-machine, and with the machine basting the two portions so laid by sewing through them. Another short section is laid in like manner after the first section has been basted, and the machine again started and the second section basted, and so on around, the machine being stopped after each section is basted and while another 5 section is being prepared. Much delay occurs in preparing the edges accurately, (as they must be prepared,) and as the curves are very sharp the sections are necessarily very short and the stoppages of the machine fre- 6o quent and many before the thumb-hole can be encircled or the basting finished. After the basting is finished the glove is turned and a row of stitching is run very close to the basting-line, or the line of juncture of the thumb 6 and glove,and after this a second line of stitch ing is run a short distance from the abovenamed line and parallel with it, distant about an eighth of an inch. This method of handinsertion, as it may be called, constitutes the state of the art prior to my invention.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a plan or top view showing the clamp-plate or transferplate mounted in position in connection with a sewing-machine, and as if holding the material or pieces in position to be sewed together in accordance with myinvention. Fig.

2 is aplan or top View of the folder by which the margin of the thumb-hole (or other opening) is turned or folded, the transfer or clamping plate being omitted. Fig. 3 is a vertical section and elevation upon a plane passing through the axis of the adjustable or sliding and vibrating bar or lever which. carries the S5 clamp-plate, the parts being in position as in Fig. 1. Fig. 4C is a plan view, and Fig. 5 a side elevation, showing an oval ratchet-plate detached from the ratchet-plate shaft, and indicating the preferred manner of construct- 9o ing this plate or the ratchet-teeth thereon. Fig. 6 is an elevation of a fragment, showing the crank-shaft by which the sliding feed bar or lever is operated in position, and the mechanism by which the length or throw of the crank maybevaried at will,theview being upon ascale about twice that ofFig. 3,- and Fig. 7 is a plan view of the under side of the disk shown in Fig. 6, representing the lever and eccentric for varying the throw of the crank. Fig. 8 is a cross-section upon a plane at right angles to that of Fig. 3, and passing through the adjustable fulcrum upon which the feed-lever is moved, showing the eccentric for advancing or retracting the said fulcrum, so as to vary the throw or movement of the outer end of said lever, this view being also on an enlarged scale. Fig. 9 is a side elevation of the folder, and Fig.

, 10 a vertical section and elevation thereof.

clamp-plate upon the folder (omitting the clamping-fingers) and the margin of the opening in the material bent or turned in accordance with my invention, the thickness of the cloth being exaggerated and the view being upon a scale about twice that of Fig. 9. Fig.

15 is a plan of a fragment of the folder coverplate, showing the clamp register-plate and thumb-size plate secured thereon,omitting the folder-carrying slides. Fig. 16 is a side elevation of the folder, showing the clamp-plate mounted thereon and in section, the clampingfingers and former being raised and the parts in position convenient for applying the thumbpiece upon the glove or one piece upon the other. Fig. 17 is a sectional elevation show ing one of the clamps or elastic clamping-fingers and the stud-cam by which it is pressed and held to its working position. Fig. 18 is a plan view illustrating a modified form of connection between the crank and the end of the sliding feed-lever.

In all the figures like letters of reference, wherever they occur, indicate corresponding parts.

The folder and the sewing-machine may be mounted upon the same bed-plate or upon the same table, if desired. The folder consists of a bed-plate, A, having a horizontal projecting portion, A, on one side, carrying two perpendicular ears, as A, to receive the horizontal axis of the former. In the center of this bedplate is a recess to receive a many-sided cam, B. Slots are cut across the bed to receive six radiallymovable foldercarrying slides, 13, which fit closely in the slots and have springs a in their outer ends, which press the slides inwardly toward the center and cause them to bear against the sides or faces of the cam B. For convenience of adj usting,adjusting-screws a are interposed between the slides and cam. Connected with a cam, 13, is a lever, B", by which the cam may be moved through a short segment of a circle, and the movement of the lever B in one direction forces the slides outward against the springs a, whereas its movement in the opposite direction permits the springs to force the slides back toward the center. Alatch, as 13 is hinged to the frame of the folder and engages and holds lever B when moved to its greatest extent.

Attached to the inner end and on top of each slide is an elevating-block, a which is con nected with the slide by two long screws,a a rigidly attached to the elevating-block, but loosely fitting a chambered recess in the slide, so that the elevating-block can be moved up and down, but not moved laterally. A spring, as a, surrounds each of the long screws a and acts to press the head of the screw down, thus keeping the elevating-block against the slide. An adjusting-screw, a, between the screws a a and tapped or threaded into the elevatingbloclgpresses upon the slide and serves to raise or to permit the lowering of the elevating-block when desired to vary its position to adapt it to varying thicknesses of cloth.

Rigidly attached to each elevating-block by suitable screws is a folder-plate, as b, which is carried high enough by the properly-adjusted elevating-block to clear the thumb-size plates and folder cover-plate referred to hereinafter, and the several folder-plates project over the size-plates and folder cover-plate, so that their outer edges register nearly with the circumference of the size-plate.

The folder cover-plate O is,as shown, a rectangular plate covering the slides in the bedplate A, to which it is secured, as by four screws, and has an irregular aperture, Fig. 15, in the center to admit the projecting elevating-blocks. It is provided with tapped or threaded holes about the central opening admitting screws, as c c, by which the clamp register-plate and the thumb-size plates are secured to the cover-plate C. The clamp register-plate D, Figs. 1 1 and 15, is a thin oval plate with an irregular opening in the center corresponding with the irregular opening in the cover-plate O, to which it is directly attached.

The clamp register-plate D, when secured to the cover-plate 0, forms an annular projection by which the clamp, to be hereinafter described, is quickly registered or centered on the folder preparatory to receiving the work, and this centering or registering projection, instead of being a separate plate, as D, attached to the cover-plate, may be an annular projection, as D, (see Fig. 10,) formed directly on the said plate and integral therewith.

On top of the plate D and secured by the same screws, 0 c, is the thumb-size plate E, which, as its name indicates, is for the purpose of determining the size of the thumbholc. Like the clamp register-plate D, it is of thin metal and oval,thongh somewhat smaller, and has an irregular opening in the center corresponding with that in plate D. Supported by the ears A A on the bed-plateA or its extension A, and horizontally pivoted or hinged therein by pivot-screws cl (1, is a swinging hub, F. The former is secured to this hub by an axial screw, as f, and consists of two long levers, G G, with handles G G on their outer or longer ends, and with adjustable stop-screws ff on their inner or shorter ends, which IIO screws bear against a projection, f on the hub F, to bringthe levers in proper line with respect to the central line of the bedplate A. These handles are called the formerhandles. A latch, f", and cateh,f", applied on the ends of the handles, serve to keep thef levers to gether when closed. 011 the under side of the leversG G are secured by suitable screws the former-plates G G, the same being somewhat dished downward to give room between the levers G G and clamp-plate, to be hereinafter described. These former-plates are of semioval form, and when attached to the levers and closed together they present an ovalaperture, which accurately registers with the sizeplate, around which they will loosely pass or be centered when the former-levers are brought down to the size-plate. The two former-plates co-operate in bending or forming the fold in the glove around the hole therein.

The clampplate H (of which two at least are supposed to accompany each complete machine) consists of a substantially square frame carrying four sets of cars, as h h, projecting upward from the four corners. Four arms, H, are carried by the ears h h, and have axisbearings therein and extend radially inward or toward the center of the clamp plate. Attached to the inner ends of each of the arms H are slitted spring-steel fingers h, the parts of each of which, acting somewhatindependently, equalize the pressure throughout the eX- tent of theirloearing. These are called presser-fingers or clampingfingers.

On the outer end of each of the arms H, and close to the hub or axis, is a short projeetionflr, under which is located a cam-studflz, the same being mounted upon the clamp-plate and near the corner thereof by use of a vertical screw, h, and springwasher h", the arrangement being such that the cam-block is free to turn on its vertical. axis underpressu re applied to itsattached lever h, which is supplied for the purpose of moving it. The camblock will not move accidentally, because of the constant friction produced by the springwasher.

On top of the camstud h is a cam-surface, which touches the under side of the projection if, and serves to forcibly raise it and thereby to depress the spring-finger h against the clamp-plate, (or the goods or material thereon.) A portion of each of these cam-studs is cut away, so that when the stud is returned to its original position the projection If will clear the camstud, and the arm H may then be raised, so that the work may be removed. In the center of the clamp-plate H is an oval opening, which registers with the clamp register-plate D on the folder. The margin of the opening is chamfered,'so as to make it as thin as practicable and still strong enough to resist springing under a pressure of the presser-fingers h,in order that the fabric or material may be held close to the bottom of the clamp-plate. I prefer to make the plate H in two parts-a east-iron frame and a steel plate on the bottom; but it could be made solid.

On the end of the clamp-plate H are two ears, 9 9, having pivot adj Listing-screws g g, with check-nuts for attaching the clamp-plate to the sewing attachment. The adjusting screws 9 g serve to make the two or more clampplates which should accompany each machine easily transferable from the folder to the sewing attachment and easily detachable from the sewing attachment.

The clamp-plate, as above described,is serviceable for various purposes, and may be used independently of the folder or of the mechanical attachment with the sewing-machine-as, for instance, it may be used to clamp pieces of fabric having ornamental designs, holding them stretched while guided by the hand, the stitching being made to follow the pattern or with an ordinary sewing-maehine having the usual fourmotion slip-feed the plate could be turned at will and the fabric therein orthereon being stretched would not be distorted by the feed. I do not, therefore, wish to be understood as limiting my claims on this plate to combinations with the folder and sewing attachment.

The sewing-machine attachment includes an automatic feed arranged to automatically guide and feed the clamp platein eo-operation with the stitching mechanism, and abed-plate, as I, to which the sewing-machine proper is attached, the plate projecting beyond the sewing-machine on one side to receive the parts of the. attach ment. 1 represents the main arm of an ordinary sewing-machine, and I the needle-bar thereof. At one side of the bedplate I is attached an overhanging bracketarm, K, which furnishes a support and bearing for a vertical ratchet-shaft, K.

Attached to the upper end of ratchetshaft K is an oval ratchet-plate, K", of such transverse and conjugate axes as to compensate for the unequal time action of the crank, or so that when the crank is passing its dead-centers and its time of movementis very slow the pawl will act on ashort radius and give a greater degree of rotary movement to the ratchetplate, and when the crank is on the quadrantandits time ofmovement most rapid the pawl will act on a long radius and give a less degree of rotary movement.

At Figs. 1 and 3 the ratchetplate is shown as a flat metal disk having the ratchet'teeth if out in its periphery, and this form may be adopted, if desired; but I prefer to make the teeth as indicated in Figs. 4 and 5-that is, of hardened steel pins 19 p, projecting at right angles to the surface of the plate and located at regular intervals from each other and near to the margin of the plate. Thesepins are inclined on their outer ends, so that the pawl will ride over each easily, and, being very hard, they will preserve their desired regularity and uniformity even after long and severe usage.

They are made removable from the plate, s0

that in case of damage or wear any one or more can be readilydetached and a perfect pin or pins quickly substituted. With the teeth out in the margin of the plate damage to one tooth generally means damage to the entire plate. The ratchet-plate K receives the motion from a pawl, as K", attached to a lever, K, having an adjusting-slot, so that varying degrees of throw may be provided for. The lever K is actuated by connections with the cam and worm wheel (for which worm-wheel see Fig. 3) of a sewing-machine somewhat modified from that shown and described in my United States Patent No. 331,106, dated November 24, 1885. The cam is so timed as to move the pawl and ratchet when the needle is out of the fabric.

On thelower end of the ratchet-shaft K is a crank-disk, k, which disk is provided with a slot and a slide, it, fitting therein, and an eccentric, k*, to adjust or move the slide, so as to vary the throw of the crank. The eccentric 75 is moved by a lever, which is bent upward at its outer end to receive a handle or pin, 70 which extends through the lever and bears against the periphery of the crank-disk k. The extent of movement of lever 70 is limited by two adjustablelatches or stops, 7c",(one on each side,) on the periphery of the disk is, so that the crank-throw may be changed instantly by the operator from one extreme to the other by simply moving the eccentric-lever from one latch or stop to the other. 3y shifting the adjustable latches the length of the travel of the eccentric,and therefore the distance of the lines of stitching one from the other, may be varied, or they may be brought nearer to or farther from the marginal line. It will be observed, of course, that this particular adjustment affects only the end or transverse axis of the oval. To prevent the ratchet-shaft being turned or moved except by the designed ac tion of the pawl and in the proper direction, so that the feeding shall always advance, and to insure against slipping or overfeeding, I provide a friction-pad or friction-brake, Fig. 6. The pad is represented at It, and may be made ofleather, rubber, or other material which will slide easily and yet produce the necessary friction. It is arranged to bear upon the top of the crank-disk 7t, and is mounted upon the arm K in-a bent or angular support, k secured to said arm by a fulcrum-screw, as at 70 At It is an adjustingscrew, the inturning of which will increase the pressure of the pad upon the disk It, and therefore increase the friction, as will be readily seen. To reduce the friction, the screw it" has only to be unturned to the proper degree.

A crank-pin, It", is attached to the slide 70, and connected with this cranlcpin-preferabl y byaball-and-socketjoint,asshown--isthefcedlever L, which is mounted upon an adjustable movable fulcrum a little removed from the center and nearest the free end of the feedlever. The fulcrum is represented at t. The feed-lever has two movements about this fulcrum-one a longitudinal reciprocating moveceives a movement such that any point of it will describe an oval or ellipse. The fulcrum Z is also provided with means for adjusting it longitudinally or in the direction of the axis of the feed-lever, so that the width or conjugate axis of the oval described by the free end of the lever may be instantly changed-in this case in order to pass from one line of stitching to a parallel line of stitching-and it (the fulcrum) is also made adjustable, so that the distance between the rows of stitching may be varied or regulated at pleasure; but the adjustment might be changed with each alternate stitch, which would make zigzag sewing, and if this were extended over the edge of the fabric it would constitute oversea'ming, either or all of which may be desirable under various circumstances. To accomplish the adjustments of the fulcrum, the fulcrum-block Z is made to fit and to slide in a longitudinal slot formed in the under side of the feed-lever L, and the fulcrum-block Z hasa journal projection, which enters a bearing formed for it in a second block, Z, called an adjusting-block. The adjustingblock Z is fitted into a slot cut for it in the bed-plate I in a line drawn between the vertical ratchet-shaft K and the needle.

An eccentric, Z", made movable about a stud, Z, rigidly attached to the bed-plate I, is fitted in a recess formed for it in the adjusting-block Z, so that when the eccentric I is moved by a projecting handle, as Z rigidly secured thereon, the adjusting-block is moved longitudi nally in the slot of the bed-plate backward and forward, according to the direction the handle is moved, carrying the center of the fulcrum Z nearer to or farther from the crank, and thereby changing the lateral throw of the opposite or free end of the feedlever and the conj ugate axis of the oval. Adjustable stops Z Z are provided and secured to the bed-plate I by screws, which stops limit the throw of the eccentric-handle 1", one being on each side of the handle, and they serve to regulate, according to their distance from each other, the distance between the rows of stitching or the distance between the peripheries of the ovals. By suitably adjusting these stops upon the bed-plate the distance of the outer row of stitching from the folded edge of the glove-hole can be regulated. Other means-as a lever extending across the sliding adjusting-blockmay be substituted for the eccentric for adjusting and changing this fulcrum-center; butfor accuracy and convenience the eccentric is preferred.

The free end of the sliding feed-lever L is provided with one rigid ear, m, and one movable latch-ear, in, for engaging and securing the clamp-plates and guiding them by movement of the lever in corresponding ovals. In

the rigid and movable latch-ears m and m are pivot-screws, which register and engage with the adjustable screws g in ears 9 g of each of the clamp-plates H. The latch-ear m is pivoted in a slot or recess in one side of the free end of the feed-lever L, and a spring, as of, bearing against the latch-handle m and against the feed-lever L, (or some projection thereon,) serves to keep the latch closed or the pivot-screw therein in bearing with the pivotscrews on the clam pplate. By pressing on the handle in of the latch the spring on is compressed and the latch is opened to receive or release the clampplate. The adjustable pivot-screws serve to locate the clamp-plates centrally or in proper line and to render them interchangeable.

It will be apparent that as the machine is operated the ratchet-feed will move the clamp attached to the free end of the feed levera de gree for each revolution of the drivingshaft depending upon the length of the ratchettooth, and as the needle is operated through one reciprocating movement at each revolution of the driving-shaft it follows that as each succeeding stitch is made the clamp plate will be moved a degree with each stitch, and will change its direction of movement with each stitch. As the direction of movement is an oval, the path of the stitching will be an oval of such axes as is determined by the length of the crank-radius and the position of the fulcrum of the feed-lever. If it be desired to change the length of the stitch, a new oval plate with ratchet-teeth of proper length can easily be substituted for the one previously used and the throw of the pawl regulated thereto.

I do not wish to confine my feed movement to the oval form of ratchet-plate above described nor to the particular mechanism by which the feeding is accomplished, for other well-known means may be substituted for describing an oval at the free end of a lever. The feed-lever might be made to slidein asleeve andthe sleeve adjusted longitudinally to change the leverage or the conjugate axis of the oval, and by wellknown devices the path of the stitching can be modified by slight changes in the form of my novelsliding feed-lever. Forinstance,tl1e path described by the free end of the feed-lever might be made to reciprocate by connecting the end of the feed-lever L to the crankpin a, Fig. 18, by a transverse slot, 12, formed in the feedlever, said lever being free to slide in a rigid sleeve, as if, and still embody the novel features of my sliding feed-lever; also, the eccentric might be made to change themovement of the fulcrum-center or sleeve-case transversely to the line of sliding, instead of longitudinally, in which case any irregular curve or form could be followed by the stitching.

The automatic feeding attachment is prei'erably attached to the sewing-machine shown in the before-mentioned United States patent granted to me; but it may be applied to any ordinary sewing-machine, and has for its object the receiving of the clamp-plates after the work or glove has been prepared and secured thereon, and for automatically guiding and feeding the prepared glove (or work) and clamp plates relative to the needle, so that the stitching will be made automatically in the desired line or lines and describe desired curves or forms, and so that the stitches shall be at the desired distance apart. The clamp-plates are for this purpose made detachable from the sliding feed-lever; but if the clamp-plates were to be used to hold or carry pieces of fabric with ornamental designs one could be rigidly secured to the sliding feed-lever and the patternplate clamped thereon without removing the plate, and still embrace the novel features of the combined clamp-plate and sliding feedlever. The clamp-plate may be used independently of the sliding feed-lever or independently of my machine, and ornamented designs or fabrics can be stitched by use of such plates. The elampplates guided by hand, could be turned readily between the feed and 'presserfoot of an ordinary sewing-machine, and with some fabrics, in skillful hands, even without the feed or presser-foot. So it will be seen the novel features of my elampplatcs are independent of any feed movement.

My forming and folding apparatus and clamps may also be used independently of any sewing-machineas, for example, forinserting thumb pieces in rubber gloves or mittens where the thumb-pieces are to be secured by cement, the fabrics being held in the clamps until the cement hardens somewhat. My forming, folding, and clamping apparatus may also be used for other purposesthan inserting thumbs in gloves or mittsas for inserting forms in ladies under-vests or for putting sleeves into undershirts or other garments. In such cases the shapes of the apertures in the clamps and other parts would be made circular instead of oval, and the clamp would in the sewing operation be guided in a circular path by well-known mechanism.

To operate my folder and sewing-machine, the fabrics are prepared apart in the folder and transferred to the sewing-machine upon the interchangeable clamp or work plate. The clamp-plate is first introduced into or upon the folder by swinging back the formerhandles out of the way, and so placed thereon that the central opening will register with the central sizeplate on the folder. The mitt or glove is then placed on the clamp-plate so that the thumb-hole therein is central with the sizeplate. Then the latched former-handles carrying the registering former-plates are brought down, carrying the former-plate down upon the mitt or glove. A little pressure forces all that margin or fabric edge lying upon the size-plate upward and partly around the formed edges of the formerplates. To complete this turning of the fabric edge over and about the former edge to make a complete fold of the fabric edge and of the shape and form given to the former-plates, the folder-car- ICO IIS

rying slides are caused to move outwardly simultaneously by the operator through means of the cam B and attached lever-handle. (Best for the purpose.

shown in Figs. 10 and 13.) They fold or push the upturned fabric edge outwardly and force it to bind closely down about the edge of the former-plates, as shown in Fig. 14. The latch shown secures the lever or handle and holds the slides in their outward position and the fabric edge in its folded position, while the op erator, being then free-handed, can remove the former or folder plates, as before stated. The plates are made in two parts, to make their removal possible. The latch of the former-handles having been released, they can be opened laterally and then swung backward out of the way without disarranging the folded fabric edge, the folders 1) serving to hold the edgesintact. The thumb-piece, which is preferably prepared by having the side seam sewed up, may now be placed upon the outwardlyopened folders in such manner as to overlay the folded edge beneath in the relative position in which they are to be united. Quartersections of the thumb-piece are preferably prepared in succession and successively secured by the weight of the clamping-arms attached to the clamp-plate, which arms may be swung downward for this purpose. The folderearrying slides may now be released and the clamps tightened by the cam-studs and the el amp or work plate transferred to the sewi ngmachine and attached to the guiding and feeding lever by means of the ears attached thereto engaging with the pivotscrews, the latch on the guiding and feeding lever being first opened The guiding and feeding lever having been adjusted to describe a path coincident with the central opening in the work-plate, if the sewing-machine be started, it will sew a line of straight-ahead stitches concentric with the folded edge of fabric, which, as shown in the drawings, is of oval form or path, and this may be and is preferably the outer row of stitching. Vhen this curve is completed, the operator, by changing the fulcrum-center by the eccentric, as shown, and the crank-radius by the eccentric adj ustment, as shown, will have changed the path of movement of the folded fabric edge, so that when the machine is started again the line of sewing will be in a parallel path to the pre-- vious line of sewing. \Vhen the sewing has extended around the oval, the clamp or work plate may be detached from the guiding and feeding lever, the fabric removed from the work-plate, and the workplate introduced into or upon the folder for another preparation.

In using two clamp-plates I prefer two operatorsone to fold and one to sew. While the operator who does the folding is preparing one clamp-plate the stitclier is sewing with a clamp-plate previously prepared, and thus the machine can be kept continuously sewing, except during the moment of detaching the clamp-plate and introducing another made ready for the purpose.

Much more and better work can be accomplished by my automatic guiding, feeding, and sewing mechanism than by hand, for,the guiding being automatic, the operator can run the machine at full speed without any attention to the guiding, whereas in hand-work all the guiding is done by hand and eye of the operator and the speed is necessarily very limited. A great gain in rapidity is also secured by use of my automatic folder, as by a few successive movements of the folder by the operator the edge of the thumb-hole is turned or folded at once,whereasbytheprocessheretofore followed the operator has by hand to successively fold short sections of the thumb-hole edge, and this cannot be done with any degree of accuracy approaching that of the machine-folding.

Having now fully described my invention, what I claim as new herein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a fabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination of a former consisting of horizontally-separable plates curved to provide an entirely-inclosed opening (when the said plates are together) of the form of the fabric edge to be folded, and asectional clamp having curved spring clamping plates or fingers collectively similar in form to the opening afforded by the plates of the former.

2. In afabrie folding and holding apparatus, the combination oftwo former orfoldingguideplates having curved portions to provide an entirely-inclosed opening of the shape of the fabric edge to be folded, said plates being pivoted vertically, so that they may be brought together or separated horizontally, as described, and a sectional clamp having curved spring clamping plates or fingers to bear on the former-plates around the opening thereof.

3. In a fabric folding and holding apparatus, two former-plates having curved portions to provide an entirely-inclosed opening of the shape of the fabric edge to be folded, said plates being pivoted so that they may be brought to gether or separated, combined with a latch for securing the said plates together when desired, and with a clamp having curved clamping plates or fingers to bear around the opening of the said former-plates.

4-. Inafabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination, with a clamp, of twoformerplates having curved portions to form an entirely-inclosed opening, a hub or plate having a horizontal pivot and to which the arms or rear portions of the said former-plates are Vertically pivoted, whereby the said formerplates are adapted to be raised and lowered and to be swung in and out horizontally, to enable the clamp to be placed upon or removed from the folding device.

5. In a fabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination, with two vertically-pivoted or horizontally-swinging former-plates having curved portions to form an entirely-inclosed opening of the shape of the fabric edge to be folded, of stops for, centeringthe said plates when they are brought toward each other, and a clamp having curved clamping plates or fingers to bear around the opening of the said former-plates.

6. In a fabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination, with a clamp having curved clamping plates or fingers, of former-plates having curved portions to form an entirely-inclosed opening, a series of radially-movable folder-carrying slides having folder-plates extending horizontally above the edges of the said former-plates, and means for supporting and simultaneously operating the said slides.

7. In afabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination, with a clamp having curved clamping plates or fingers, of formenplates having curved portions to form an entirely-inelosed opening, a series of radially-movable folder-carrying slides having folder-plates extending horizontally above the edges of the said former-plates, a cam and hand lever for simultaneously forcing the said slides out ward, and aseries ofsprings for retracting the same. 7

8. The combination, with the former-plates and the clamp, of the radially-movable slides B, and means for supporting and operating the same,each oft-he said slides being provided with a horizontally projecting and downward] y spring-pressed folder-plate, b.

S). The combination, with the former-plates and the clam p, of the radially-movable foldercarrying slides 13, the supporting-plate A,and means forsi multaneousl y operating said slides, each of the said slides having a riser or block, (i carrying 'a folder-plate, I), and being provided with screws a, having surrounding springs a.

10. In an apparatus for folding and holding fabrics, the combination, with a clamp and the formerplates, of the radially-movable foldercarrying slides B, the supporting-plate A, the cam B, the lever B, and the latch B.

11. In an apparatus for folding and holding fabrics, the combination, with a clamp having spring clamping plates or fingers, of a former consistingofhorizontally-separableplateshaving curved portions to provide an inelosed opening, a clampsnpport, as plate 0, having an opening, and a clamp register plate or projection, as D, on said support around said opening.

12. In an apparatus for folding and holding fabrics, the combination,with a clamp and two separable former-plates having curved portions to provide an inelosed opening, and over which portions the edge of the fabric is to be folded, of a size-plate having a contour which is of the form and shape of the opening left in the fabric or article when the fabric edge is folded over.

13. The combination, with the clamp and the former plates, of the plate 0, having an opening or aperture, a clamp registering plate or annular projection thereon surrounding the said aperture, and the thumb size plate E, superposed on the said clamp registering plate or projection.

14. The combination, with an apparatus for folding over the edge of an opening in a fabric or a tubular article of fabric, ofa fiat clamp plate entirely disconnected from the folding apparatus and having an inelosed opening, a series ofelamping arms or levers pivotally sup ported on the said clamp-plate, and curved clamping plates or fingers carried by the said arms orlevers, and serving, collectively, to surround the opening of the said clamp'plate.

15. A flat clamp-plate having an inclosed opening, combined with a series of pivoted clamping arms or levers. curved spring elamping plates or fingers carried by the said arms or levers and of proper form, collectively, to surround the said opening, and means for holding said clamping-plates in clamping position.

16. A fiat clamp-plate having an inelosed opening, combined with a series of pivoted clampinglevers supported by said plate, and having curved spring clamping plates or fingers of proper form, collectively, to surround said opening, and aseries ofhandled cam studs or blocks for holding the said clamping plates or fingers in operative position.

17. A flat clamp-plate having an inelosed opening, combined with two or more independently-operating spring clamping arms or levers arranged around said opening, and having curved clamping plates or fingers serving, collectively, to surround said openin 18. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a clamp-plate feeding mech anism comprising a guiding feed-lever, and

means for operating the same, of a clamp-plate provided with clamping arms and plates, and having lugs or ears by which it may be quickly connected with or detached from the said feedlever.

19. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a work-clamp, which is detachable from the sewing-machine, of a horizontal guiding feedlever having a fulern n1 between its ends and detachably connected atits forward end with said work-clamp, a rotary crank pin or device engaging the rear of said lever to operate the same, and a vertical rotary shaft to actuate said crank pin or device to cause said clamp to be moved in any desired path beneath the sewing-machine needle.

20. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a work-clamp, a guiding feedlever to which the said clamp is attached, an adjustable crank-pin for operating said lever, means for operating said erank-pin,and an adjustable fulcrum for the said feeddevenwhereby the said clamp may be moved in aeircular or elliptical path which may be varied to sew parallel and concentric rows of stitches.

21. The combination, with a stitcl1-forming mechanism, a guiding feed-lever, and operating mechanism for the latter, ofa work-clamp having ears or lugs, and the said lever having a pivoted latch or lever to enable the ears of the said clamp to be quickly connected with or detached from the said lever.

22. The combination, with the stitch-forming mechanism and the Work-clamp having ears 9, of the guiding feed-lever Land means for operating the latter, the said lever being provided with the stationary and movable cars at and m, and with the handle or lever m, by which the latter ear is carried.

23. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a work-clamp, a guiding and feeding lever for the said clamp,an adjustable cranl -pin for operating said lever, means for actuating said crank-pin, an adjustable fulcrum for the said feedlever, levers or arms for shifting said fulcrum and crank-pin, and stops for limiting the movements of the said levers or arms in both directions.

24. The combination, with a work-clamp and a stitch-forming mechanism, of a guiding feedlever detachably connected at one end with the said clamp, a shaft having a crank-pin connected with the other end of said lever, a ratchet feed plate or wheel on the said shaft provided with removable pins, and means for operating said ratchet feed-plate.

25. In a fabric folding and holding apparatus, the combination, with a clamp-holding support and a former-plate having an edge of the shape of the fabric edge to be folded, of a clamp entirely disconnected from said support, and having plates or fingers to hold the folded edge, arranged to correspond to the shape of the edge of the said former-plate, the said formerplate being removable from the said clamp to permit the lattcr,with the folded fabric held therein, to be taken from the said clamp-holding support.

26. The combination, with a folding apparatus consisting of former-plates and a series of radially-movable folder-carriers having at their outer ends folders to extend over the said former-plates, of a clamp which is entirely disconnected from the bed plate or support of the said folding apparatus,'so that the said clamp, with the folded and prepared work therein, may be removed from the folding apparatus when the folding and preparing operation is completed.

In testimony that I clai m the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two witnesses.

SATTERLEE ARNOLD.

W'itnesscs:

J OHN BUOKLER, WORTH Oseoon.

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