US3892340A

US3892340A - Sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice

Info

Publication number: US3892340A
Application number: US518566A
Authority: US
Inventors: Regina Reidy
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1974-10-29
Filing date: 1974-10-29
Publication date: 1975-07-01
Anticipated expiration: 1992-07-01

Abstract

An improved sewing aid device includes an elongated first strip member having a lower first end and an upper second end, and an elongated second strip member having an upper third end and a lower fourth end. A pivotal connection is provided between overlapped end portions of the strip members adjacent the upper second and third ends so that the lower first and fourth ends may be moved toward and away from one another. Each strip member has a planar first surface arranged to be covered by the marginal portion of the bodice at the armhole, and an opposite undulating second surface arranged to cover the cap portion of the sleeve. The sleeve cap portion is caused to assume the undulating contour of the second surface so that the material of the sleeve cap portion may be uniformly gathered relative to the bodice marginal portion.

Description

United States Patent 1 Reidy 1 SEWING AID DEVICE FOR SETTING A SLEEVE IN THE ARMl-IOLE OF A BODICE [76} Inventor: Regina Reidy, 258 W. Seventh St.,

Emporium, Pa, 15834 221 Filed: Oct. 29, 1974 [211 Appl. No.: 518,566

{52] US. Cl. 223/1 [51] Int. Cl A4Ih 43/00 [58] Field of Search 223/1, 28-36, 223/52, 52.1, 51, 66, 68, 70, 61, 63, 65; 33/2 R, 11, 12, 17 R [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,618,417 11/1952 Rose 223/1 3,776,436 12/1973 Reidy 223/1 Primary Examiner-Geo V. Larkin Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Sommer & Sommer 1451 July 1,1975

[57] ABSTRACT An improved sewing aid device includes an elongated first strip member having a lower first end and an upper second end, and an elongated second strip member having an upper third end and a lower fourth end. A pivotal connection is provided between overlapped end portions of the strip members adjacent the upper second and third ends so that the lower first and fourth ends may be moved toward and away from one another. Each strip member has a planar first surface arranged to be covered by the marginal portion of the bodice at the armhole, and an opposite undulating second surface arranged to cover the cap portion of the sleeve. The sleeve cap portion is caused to assume the undulating contour of the second surface so that the material of the sleeve cap portion may be uniformly gathered relative to the bodice marginal portion.

11 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures SEWING AID DEVICE FOR SETTING A SLEEVE IN THE ARMIIOLE OF A BODICE BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention The present invention relates generally to an improved sewing aid device for setting an oversized sleeve in the armhole of a garment bodice.

Description of the Prior Art The present invention provides an improved sewing aid device over the structure illustrated and described in may prior US. Pat. No. 3.776.436. recently the subject of reissue application Ser. No. 502.61 I. filed Sept. 3. I974.

The aforesaid prior patent broadly discloses a sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice which comprises an elongated strip having a first surface adapted to be covered by the marginal portion of a bodice at the armhole. and also having for a portion of its longitudinal extent a second surface on its opposite side adapted to be covered by the oversized cap portion of a sleeve. The second surface has a series of depressions extending transversely of the strip and spaced from one another longitudinally therealong. Means were disclosed for holding the bodice marginal portion against the first surface, and for causing the sleeve cap portion to assume the contour of the second surface so that the material of the sleeve cap portion could be gathered relative to the bodice marginal por- IIOl'l.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides an improved sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice.

The device includes an elongated first strip member having a first end and a second end. and an elongated second strip member having a third end and a fourth end. Each of these strip members has a preferably planar first surface one side thereof arranged to be covered by the marginal portion of the bodice at the armhole. and also has for a portion of its longitudinal extent a second surface on its opposite side arranged to cover the cap portion of said sleeve. Each of the second surfaces has a series of depressions extending transversely of its strip and spaced longitudinally from one another therealong. These series of depressions preferably have a uniformly undulating. or sinusoidal. cross-sectional shape. although the present invention contemplates that other cross-sectional shapes may be used as well.

The device further includes connecting means operatively joining the first strip member proximate the second end thereof to the second strip member proximate the third end thereof to enable the first and fourth ends of the strip members to be moved toward and away from one another. While the connecting means may include any type of flexible connection between such second and third end portions. it is presently preferred to overlap the second and third marginal end portions such that a portion of the one side of the first strip member adjacent the second end thereof is arranged to face a portion of the opposite side of the second strip member proximate the third end thereof, and to maintain such overlapped condition by passing a pin through these overlapped end portions to permitrela tive pivotal movement of the strip members in planes substantially parallel to the planes of the first surface of each of the strip members.

The device further includes means for holding the bodice marginal portion against the first surface of each of the strip members, and means for holding the sleeve cap portion against the second surface of each of the strip members, whereby the material of the oversized sleeve cap portion may be gathered relative to the material of the bodice marginal portion.

In one embodiment, such bodice portion holding means may include one or more adhesive portions arranged on the first surface, or one or more portions thereof. of at least one of the strip members and adapted to cause the bodice marginal portion to adhere thereto. In another embodiment. such holding means may include a clip having a first arm biased to hold the bodice marginal portion against the first surface.

Similarly, the means for holding the sleeve cap portion may include one or more adhesive portions arranged on the second surfaces. or one or more portions thereof. or a clip having a second arm biased to urge the sleeve cap portion to assume the undulating contour of the second surfaces. Alternatively. such sleeve cap holding means may include one or more cooperative strips. each having a series of longitudinally-spaced ribs along one surface thereof and arranged to fit into the depressions of the second surface to cause the intermediately positioned sleeve cap portion to assume the contour of the second surface. and a clip having a second arm biased to hold the cooperative strip in mating engagement with the second surface.

Accordingly, one object of the present invention is to provide an improved sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice.

Another object is to provide an improved sewing aid device of adjustable size to accomodate different sizes of sleeve and bodice subassemblies.

Another object is to provide a sewing aid device of improved construction to facilitate operative engagement and removal thereof with respect to a sleeve cap portion and bodice marginal portion at an armhole.

Another object is to provide an improved sewing aid device for uniformly gathering an oversized sleeve cap portion relative to a marginal portion of a bodice at an armhole.

Still another object is to provide an improved sewing aid device for holding a gathered sleeve cap portion to a marginal portion ofa garment bodice at the armhole.

These and other objects and advantages will become apparent from the foregoing and ongoing specification. the drawings. and the appended claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a top plan view of the improved sewing aid device depicting in solid the elongated first and second strip members, the undulating second surfaces thereof. and the pin pivotally connecting the strip members through their overlapped marginal upper end positions; and further illustrating in phantom the relative positions of the strip members after the lower ends thereof have been moved toward one another to a first position and away from one another to a second position.

FIG. 2 is a front elevational view thereof. taken generally on line 2-2 of FIG. 1 and illustrating the lower first and upper second surface of each strip member. and the pivot pin passed through the marginal upper end portions of the strip members.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary vertical sectional view thereof, taken generally on line 33 of FIG. 1, principally illustrating the upper end portions of each strip member in central longitudinal cross-section, and the pivot pin passed therethrough.

FIG. 4 is an exploded perspective view illustrating the improved sewing aid device in aligned relation to the marginal portion of a garment bodice at the armhole, and to the oversized cap portion of the sleeve, this view also illustrating such bodice marginal portion arranged to cover the first surface of each strip member and the sleeve cap portion arranged to cover and assume the contour of the undulating second surface of each strip member.

FIG. 5 is a further enlarged fragmentary perspective view of a portion of the first strip member, this view taken generally on line 55 of FIG. 4 and illustrating an adhesive arranged on the first and second surfaces and causing the bodice marginal portion and the sleeve cap portion to adhere to such surfaces, respectively.

FIG. 6 is a perspective view, generally similar to FIG. 5, but illustrating a modified embodiment of the means for holding the bodice marginal portion and the means for holding the sleeve cap portion, this modification including a clip having a first arm biased to urge the bodice marginal portion against the first surface and also having a second arm biased to hold the sleeve cap portion against the second surface.

FIG. 7 is a perspective view, generally similar to FIG. 5, but illustrating another modified embodiment of the means for holding the bodice marginal portion and the means for holding the sleeve cap portion, this modification including a cooperative strip having a surface provided with a series of longitudinally-spaced transversely-extending ribs arranged to fit into the depressions of the second surface, and a clip having a first arm arranged to hold the bodice marginal portion against the first surface, and having a second arm arranged to hold the cooperative strip in mating engagement with the second surface to cause the sleeve cap portion to assume the undulating contour thereof.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS At the outset, it should be clearly understood that like reference numerals are intended to identify the same elements and/or structure consistently throughout the several drawing figures, as such elements and- /or structure may be further described or explained by the entire written specification of which this detailed description is an integral part.

The present invention provides an improved sewing aid device over the structure disclosed in my prior US. Pat. No. 3,776,436, the aggregate disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

The manufacture of garments generally involves three basic operations: cutting portions or blanks for the garment from a bolt of textile material according to patterns, forming subassemblies thereof, and thereafter stitching these subassemblies together to assemble the garment. In the manufacture of such garments by a technique called closed construction," patterns are first used to cut the sleeve and bodice blanks. Thereafter, the sleeve blank may be formed into a sleeve tube subassembly, and the front and rear bodice blanks may be sewn together along the shoulder and sides to form a bodice subassembly. Finally the right-side-out sleeve tube may be passed through the armhole of the insideout bodice subassembly, and the adjacent marginal portions of the sleeve cap and garment bodice at the armhole may be stitched together to join or assemble these two subassemblies.

In another technique called open construction," the side seams of the garment bodice are not stitched together until after the sleeve subassembly has been stitched to the bodice subassembly.

Regardless of which technique is used, the sleeve cap portion is commonly oversized and must usually be gathered, preferably uniformly along its length, to the smaller size of the bodice at the armhole before stitching. This operation of setting-in a sleeve" generally requires a high degree of seamstress skill to provide a professional appearance to the finished garment.

Referring initially to FIGS. 1 and 4, a presently preferred embodiment of the improved sewing aid device is generally indicated at 10 and is shown as including a leftward vertically-elongated first strip member 11 having a lower first end 12 and an upper second end I3, and a rightward vertically-elongated second strip member I4 having an upper third end 15 and a lower fourth end 16.

In FIG. 4, there is depicted, in the background to the left of device 10, an inside-out garment bodice subassembly, generally indicated at I8, having its front and rear bodice blank 19, 20 stitched together at shoulder seam 8,, the upper

marginal portions

21, 22 of which are shown lying on the top of the bodice subassembly. The bodice subasscmbly 18 is also shown as having a marginal portion 23 around an armhole 24. In the conventional manner, the patterns for the front and

rear bodice blanks

19, 20 have indicated the position for placement of suitable tailor ticking, such as left and right cut indentations 25, 25', respectively, for subsequent use in aligning the bodice subasssembly 18 with the cap portion of the sleeve.

In the foregound of FIG. 4 to the right of device 10, there is depicted a fragmentary upper portion of a sleeve blank 26 including an uppermost cap portion 28. As with the bodice patterns, the pattern for the sleeve blank 26 has also indicated the position for placement of suitable tailor ticking, such as left and right cut indentations 29, 29, respectively, which may be suitably aligned with the indentations 25, 25' of the bodice subassembly to indicate a desired orientation between these two subassemblies prior to their assembly.

Still referring to FIG. 4, the inside-out surface of the bodice subassembly 18 is indicated at 30, and the opposite right-side-out surface is indicated at 31. In like manner, the sleeve blank is indicated as having an in side-out surface 32, and an opposite right-side-out surface 33.

However, inasmuch as the length of the sleeve cap portion 28, this length being represented by the upper peripheral distance of the cap portion from left indentation 29 to right indentation 29, is usually greater than the corresponding length of the bodice marginal portion 23, this being the upper peripheral distance of the marginal portion 23 from left indentation 25 to right indentation 25, the oversized sleeve cap portion 28 must normally be gathered, preferably uniformly, along its length to the smaller corresponding length of the bodice marginal portion 23 prior to assembly stitch- Referring now particularly to FIG. 3, a presently preferred embodiment of the first strip member 11 is shown as including an elongated first strip 34 having a flattened rectangular transverse cross-section (FIG. 5), and a contoured strip 35 mounted thereon. The first strip 34 is shown as having a generally planar first surface 36 on its flattened lower side, and has a parallel generally planar opposite upper side 38. The contoured strip 35 is shown as being an elongated member having a uniformly-undulating sinusoidal longitudinal crosssection formed by an alternating series of longitudinally-spaced depressions 39 and crests 40 which extend transversely thereof, and having a lower surface 41 and an upper surface 42. The first strip 34 and its contoured strip 35 may be suitably secured together, as by a suitable adhesive arranged between and bonding the first strip upper surface 38 and the contoured strip lower surface 41 proximate the depressions 39 thereof. Hence, the first strip member 11, when viewed as an assembly of first strip 34 and contoured strip 35, has a lower first surface 36 on one side thereof, and has for a portion of its longitudinal extent a second surface 42 on its opposite side, this second surface 42 having a series of depressions 39 extending transversely of first strip member 11 and spaced from one another longitudinally therealong.

Similarly, the second strip member 14 is also shown as including an elongated second strip 43 having a flattened rectangular transverse cross-section (FIG. 3), and a contoured strip 44 mounted thereon. The second strip 43 has a generally planar first surface 45 on its flattened lower side, and has a parallel generally planar opposite upper side 46. The contoured strip 44 is shown as being an elongated member having a uniformly-undulating sinusoidal longitudinal cross-section formed by an alternating series of longitudinally-spaced depressions 48 and crests 49 which extend transversely thereof, and having a lower surface 50 and an upper surface 51. In like manner, the second strip 43 and its contoured strip 44 may be suitably secured together, as by an adhesvie arranged between and bonding the second strip upper surface 46 and the contoured strip lower surface 50 proximate the depressions 48 thereof. Thus, the second strip member 14, when viewed as an assembly of second strip 43 and contoured strip 44, has a lower first surface 45 on one side thereof, and has for a portion of its longitudinal extent a second surface 51 on its opposite side having a series of depressions 48 extending transversely of second strip member 14 and spaced from one another longitudinally therealong.

While in the presently preferred embodiment the first and second strip members 11, 14 are shown and described as being formed by asembling the first and

second strips

34, 43 with their associated contoured

strips

35, 44, respectively, it should be clearly understood that the present invention expressly contemplates that these first and second stip members 11, 14 may alternatively be made or formed from a single solid piece of stock material, such as a suitable plastic, as generally shown in FIG. 4 of US. Pat. No. 3,776,436. Moreover, the undulations need not be exactly sinisoidal, but may be configured to other preferably repeating undulating shapes as well.

Adverting now to FIG. 4, the

first surfaces

36, 45 of the first and second strip members ll, 14, respectively, are shown arranged to be covered by the marginal portion 23 of the bodice subassembly 18 at the armhole 6 24. The second surfaces 36, 45 of the first and second strip member 11, 14, respectively, are arranged to cover the cap portion 28 of sleeve blank 26.

Referring now collectively to FIGS. 1-3, the inventive device 10 is shown as further including connecting means, generally indicated at 52, operatively joining the first strip member 11 proximate the upper second end 13 thereof to the second strip member 14 proximate the upper third end 15 thereof to enable the lower first and fourth ends 12, 16 to be moved manually toward and away from one another. In FIG. 1, the strip members 11, 14 are depicted in phantom as having been moved toward one another to one alternative position, such first and second strip members at this position being identified at 11' and 14', respectively, and as having been moved away from one another to another alternative spread-apart" position, such strip members at this position being identified at 11" and 14'', respectively.

As best shown in FIG. 3, the presently preferred embodiment contemplates that a marginal end portion 53 of the first strip member 11 adjacent the upper second end 13 thereof be overlapped with a marginal end portion 54 of the second strip member 14 adjacent the upper third end 15 thereof such that the end portion 53 of first strip member lower side 36 is arranged to face the end portion 54 of the second strip member upper side 46. In the presently preferred embodiment, these overlapped

marginal end portions

53, 54 are spaced from one another by the presencne of an intermediate flat washer 55.

The first and second strip members 11, 14 are shown provided with aligned vertical through-

holes

56, 58, respectively. In its simplest form, the connecting means 52 may include a pivot pin 59 having a shank portion passed through aligned

holes

56, 58 and retained in this position by an upper head 60 arranged to act against the upper surface 42 of the first strip member, and a lower head 61 arranged to act against the lower surface 45 of the second strip member 14. Hence, this pivot pin 59 will enable relative pivotal movement of the strip member lower ends 12, 16 toward and away from one another. However, it will be readily appreciated that each of the strip member first surfaces 36, 45 will remain substantially in its plane during such relative pivotal movement of the strip members. Moreover, persons skilled in this art will readily appreciate that other alternative types of flexible connections achieving like objects and advantages may be provided between

end portions

53, 54 in lieu of the expressly disclosed pivotal connection.

The inventive device further includes means, generally indicated at 62, for holding the bodice marginal portion 23 against the

first surface

36, 45 of strip members 11, 14; and means, generally indicated at 63, for holding the sleeve cap portion 28 against the undulating second surfaces 42, 51 of the strip members so that the material of the sleeve cap portion may be gathered relative to the material of the bodice marginal portion.

In a first preferred form of the invention depicted in FIGS. 1-5, the holding means 62 may comprise a suitable adhesive 64 arranged on the strip member first surfaces 36, 45 and operative to cause the material of the bodice marginal portion 23 to adhere releasably to these first surfaces. In this form, the holding means 63 may also comprise a suitable adhesive 65 arranged on the strip member second surfaces 42, 51 and operative to cause the material of the sleeve cap portion 28 to adhere releasably to these second surfaces. Thus. if the material of the sleeve cap portion 28 is caused to contact the entire length of the

second surfaces

42, 51, the adhesive 65 will retain such material to the contour of the second surfaces, thereby retaining such material in a gathered position relative to the bodice marginal portion 23. In this embodiment, the adhesive 65 is illustrated as applied primarily in each of the

depressions

39, 48 of

second surfaces

42, 51 respectively. Altematively, the adhesive 65 may be applied to the entire length of the undulating second surfaces, or only to selected portions thereof, as desired.

In a second preferred form of the invention depicted in FIG. 6, the holding means 62 may include a plurality of spring clips 66 having one or more first arms 68 spring biased to hold the bodice marginal portion 23 directly against the strip member first surfaces 36, 45. In this embodiment, the holding means 63 may comprise one or more second arms 69 of clips 66 which are spring biased to fit into

depressions

39, 48 to urge the sleeve cap portion 28 to assume the contour of

second surfaces

42, 51. Alternatively, clips 66 may be used in connection with the embodiment depicted in FIGS. l and previously described, if desired.

In a third preferred form of the invention depicted in H0. 7, the holding means 62, 63 may include at least one cooperative strip 70 and a plurality of spring clips 66' having first arms 68' and second arms 69'. In this form. the holding means 62 includes the first arms 68' biased to hold the bodice marginal portion 23 against strip member first surfaces 36, 45. The cooperative strip 70 is complementarily contoured with the second surfaces and has a series of longitudinally-spaced ribs 71 arranged to fit into the depressions of

second surfaces

42, 51 to cause the interposed material of the sleeve cap portion 28 to assume the undulating contour of the

second surfaces

42, 51. Hence in this form, the holding means 63 includes the cooperative strip 70 and the second arms 69' of clips 66'.

lt will thus be seen that the improved sewing aid device is of adjustable size to accomodate different pattern sizes, and may be adjusted to various pivotal positions to facilitate manipulation of the device with respect to a garment bodice and/or a sleeve blank. When the sleeve cap portion 28 has been gathered relative to the bodice marginal portion 23, the material of these portions may be suitably stitched together in the usual manner. Thereafter, the device may be readily disengaged and removed from the assembled garment thus formed.

While the disclosed embodiments constitute presently preferred forms of the inventive sewing aid device, it should be clearly understood by persons skilled in this art that other forms achieving like objects and advantages might also be adopted without departing from the spirit of the invention which is defined by the following claims.

What is claimed is:

l. A sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice, comprising:

an elongated first strip member having a first end and a second end;

an elongated second strip member having a third end and a fourth end,

each of said strip members having a first surface on one side arranged to be covered by the marginal portion of said bodice at said armhole, and also having for a portion of its longitudinal extent a sec ond surface on its opposite side arranged to cover the cap portion of said sleeve, each of said second surfaces having a series of depressions extending transversely of its strip member and spaced from one another longitudinally therealong; connecting means operatively joining said first strip member proximate said second end thereof to said second strip member proximate said third end thereof to enable said first and fourth ends to be moved toward and away from one another;

means for holding such bodice marginal portion against said first surface of each of said strip members; and means for holding such sleeve cap portion against said second surface of each of said strip member,

whereby the material of said sleeve cap portion may be gathered relative to said bodice marginal portion.

2. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said connecting means pivotally joins said strip members.

3. The sewing aid device according to claim 2 wherein a marginal end portion of said first strip member adjacent said second end is overlapped with a marginal end portion of said second strip member adjacent said third end such that a portion of said one side of said first strip member is arranged to face a portion of said opposite side of said second strip member, and said connecting means includes a pin operatively engaging each of such overlapped end portions to enable such relative pivotal movement of said strip members.

4. The sewing aid device according to claim I wherein each of said first surfaces is planar.

5. The sewing aid device according to claim 4 wherein such planar first surfaces are parallel.

6. The sewing aid device according to claim 5 wherein each of said planar first surfaces remains in its plane during such relative movement of said first and fourth ends.

7. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said means for holding such bodice marginal portion includes an adhesive arranged on a portion of at least one of said first surfaces.

8. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said means for holding such sleeve cap portion includes an adhesive arranged on a portion of at least one of said second surfaces.

9. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said means for holding such bodice marginal portion includes a clip having a first arm biased to hold said bodice marginal portion against said first surface, and also having an oppositely biased second arm.

10. The sewing aid device according to claim 9 wherein said means for holding such sleeve cap portion includes said second arm biased to urge said sleeve cap portion to assume the contour of said second surface.

11. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said means for holding such sleeve cap portion includes a cooperative strip having a series of longitudinally-spaced ribs along a surface thereof, said ribs arranged to fit into said depressions to cause said sleeve cap portion to assume the contour of said second surface, and a clip having a second ann arranged to urge said cooperative strip surface into mating engagement with a portion of at least one of said second surfaces. i i

Claims

1. A sewing aid device for setting a sleeve in the armhole of a bodice, comprising: an elongated first strip member having a first end and a second end; an elongated second strip member having a third end and a fourth end, each of said strip members having a first surface on one side arranged to be covered by the marginal portion of said bodice at said armhole, and also having for a portion of its longitudinal extent a second surface on its opposite side arranged to cover the cap portion of said sleeve, each of said second surfaces having a series of depressions extending transversely of its strip member and spaced from one another longitudinally therealong; connecting means operatively joining said first strip member proximate said second end thereof to said second strip member proximate said third end thereof to enable said first and fourth ends to be moved toward and away from one another; means for holding such bodice marginal portion against said first surface of each of said strip members; and means for holding such sleeve cap portion against said second surface of each of said strip member, whereby the material of said sleeve cap portion may be gathered relative to said bodice marginal portion.

4. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein each of said first surfaces is planar.

11. The sewing aid device according to claim 1 wherein said means for holding such sleeve cap portion includEs a cooperative strip having a series of longitudinally-spaced ribs along a surface thereof, said ribs arranged to fit into said depressions to cause said sleeve cap portion to assume the contour of said second surface, and a clip having a second arm arranged to urge said cooperative strip surface into mating engagement with a portion of at least one of said second surfaces.