US3808992A - Device for feeding the cloth in a sewing system for the production of open darts - Google Patents

Device for feeding the cloth in a sewing system for the production of open darts Download PDF

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Publication number
US3808992A
US3808992A US00322937A US32293773A US3808992A US 3808992 A US3808992 A US 3808992A US 00322937 A US00322937 A US 00322937A US 32293773 A US32293773 A US 32293773A US 3808992 A US3808992 A US 3808992A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
workpiece
cutter
guide
bearing lever
along
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US00322937A
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English (en)
Inventor
G Mall
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pfaff Industriemaschinen GmbH
Original Assignee
Pfaff Industriemaschinen GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pfaff Industriemaschinen GmbH filed Critical Pfaff Industriemaschinen GmbH
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3808992A publication Critical patent/US3808992A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02—Folding
    • D05D2305/04—Folding longitudinally to the sewing direction
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T83/00—Cutting
    • Y10T83/343—With means to deform work temporarily
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T83/00—Cutting
    • Y10T83/727—With means to guide moving work
    • Y10T83/739—Positively confines or otherwise determines path of work

Definitions

  • ABSTRACT A device for feeding a workpiece cloth which is folded along a fold line along a feed path of a sewing machine, includes a pattern bar, having a guide edge, which is shaped according to the course of the seam, and which defines a guide surface for guiding a flat cutter and the workpiece so that the cutter cuts the workpiece along the folded edge.
  • the pattern bar is mounted for movement to advance the workpiece into association with the sewing machine and the cutter, and the construction includes a stationary guide of U- shaped construction having two leg portions between which the folded end of the workpiece is guided and having a connecting web portion between the leg portions with a cutter access slot into which the cutter projects.
  • the cloth layers of the dart are to be cut open close to the point of the dart in order to avoid bulkiness in the region of the point, the cloth layers of the dart must be trimmed very close to the seam.
  • the remaining free cloth edges become very narrow and thus they may fray very easily.
  • the flat ironing of the narrow cloth edges presents difficulties.
  • the flat ironed cloth edges in garments of very thin materials and those which are intimately joined on the inner side with a fusible lining to reinforce the front parts are visible on the finished garment close to the dart seam.
  • the clothlayers of the dart must be cut open by hand after the formation of the seam along the folding edge. If time consuming cutting by hand is to be eliminated, the distance between the blades for trimming the edges and the seam must be increased and such blades generally move upwardly and downwardly in a vertical plane.
  • the invention provides a system in which both layers of the dart which embraces the sewing material over the folded edge.
  • the guide includes an oblong slot for the entrance of a cutting tool whose cutting edge protrudes between the cloth layers of the dart fold.
  • the cutting tool is arranged with its drive on a bearing lever which can turn about an axis extending perpendicular to the displacement plane of the sewing material.
  • the bearing lever bears tensionally on the pattern bar determining the form of the seam.
  • the bearing lever is equipped with a movable part which carries a supporting roller bearing on the pattern bar.
  • a particularly suitable cutting tool for cutting the dart fold along the folding edge is a polygonal flat blade which is located at a relatively small distance above the bearing surface for the sewing material and which r0- tates in a plane parallel to the supporting surface of the sewing material or workpiece.
  • an object of the invention to provide an improved device for operating on a folded workpiece cloth which is folded along a fold line and which includes means for advancing the folded workpiece into association with an operating sewing machine needle and for presenting the folded edge through a U-shaped stationary guide having a slot into which a' rotatable cutter is arranged, and wherein the cutter cuts the workpiece along the fold line as the workpiece is guided past the stitching needle.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a device for feeding a folded workpiece cloth on a sewing system which includes afeed barwhich has an upstanding guide edge and a flat pressing plate edge .which engages with the workpiece and which is advanced by a carriage to present the workpiece into association with a stitching needle and which includes a guide edge for guiding a cutter and the material when the material is moved past the stitching needle and 'which also includes a fixed guide which embraces the material along the folded edge and which is provided with a slot into which the cutter projects for cutting the material along the folded edge.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a simplified sewing system which is simple in design, rugged in construction, and economical to manufacture.
  • FIG. 1 is a front elevational view of a sewing system constructed in accordance with the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a section taken along the lines 11-11 of FIG. 1;
  • FIG. 3 is a section taken along the lines III-III of FIG. 2;
  • FIG. 4 is an enlarged partial perspective view of the cutting tool and the workpiece guide shown partly broken away and partly in section;
  • FIG. 5 is a partial perspective view of a dart after flat ironing and produced with the device constructed in accordance with the invention.
  • the invention embodied therein comprises, a sewing system which includes a frame 1, having a table top 2 defining a top surface for supporting the surface of the workpiece for feeding therealong.
  • a sewing machine 3 is arranged along the feed path overlying the table top 2 and it includes a head 4 which is mounted in a known manner vice'but the feeding means for the workpiece is incorporated in the sewing system.
  • two parallel guide bars 9 and 10 are mounted in laterally spaced relationship on the frame 1 and a carriage 13 is movable therealong under the drive of a motor 11 which rotates a drive sprocket 11a to move a chain 12 which is secured to the carriage 13.
  • the chain is guided over a return sprocket 11b.
  • the carriage 13 includes a carrier part 16 which extends longitudinally and which is guided in the manner of a cross-slide which is movable along the spaced transverse guide bars 14 and 15.
  • U-shaped arms 17 and 18 are secured to the respective ends of the carrier 16 and they extend vertically upwardly on one side, the sewing machine side, of the table 2.
  • the U-shaped arms 17 and 18 include. sides of unequal length and the short sides of the arms 17 and 18 are connected to the carrier 16 while the long sides extend above the table top 2 parallel to the longitudinal axis of the sewing machine 3.
  • the free ends of the long or upper sides of the arms 17 and 18 carry compressed air motors 19 and 20, respectively.
  • the compressed air motors l9 and 20 include piston rods 21 and 22 which are vertically movable and which are connected to a Support means are provided for adjustably supporting a rotatable cutter or polygonal blade so that the blade passes into the slot 34 and protrudes between the layers of the folded cloth so that it is out along the fold line.
  • the support means include a cutter shaft 36 which is supported on a pivotal cutter support arm or lever 38 along with its drive motor .37.
  • the cutter 35 may comprise a polygonal or circular blade for cutting the dart fold along the folding edge or a pivotal cutting tool which oscillates about a vertical axis may be employed which has a cutting edge in the form of a blade which protrudes between the cloth layers of the dart folds.
  • the bearing lever 38 advantageously comprises a single piece but it also carries a movable lever part which carries a supporting roller 39 which bears against the guide ledge 25 of the pattern bar 23.
  • the movable lever part 40 and the bearing lever 38 are braced together by means of a screw bolt 42 which passes through an oblong slot 41 in the movable part 40 and also through the free end of the bearing lever 38.
  • This construction permits a variation of the distance between the supporting roller 39 and the polygonal blade 35 which is pattern bar, generally designated 23.
  • the pattern bar corresponding to the desired seam line S and the form of the dart.
  • the forward end of the sewing machine 3 carries a vertical support bar 26 which includes a cross-plate 27 at its lower end having laterally spaced vertically arranged roller shafts 28 and 29 which carry rollers 30 and 31 which rotate about vertical axes on respective sides of the guide ledge 25 and bear against the guide ledge.
  • the invention provides a U-shaped guide 32, which is fastened to the cloth supporting plate of the sewing machine by means of a screw 33, which includes top and bottom leg portions 32a and 32b which are connected by an end web portion 32c as shown in FIG. 41.
  • the leg portions 320 and 32b engage on respective sides of the workpiece W which is fed with its folded end adjacent the web portion 320 so that it passes alongside an elongated slot 34 of the guide 32.
  • the bearing lever 38 is mounted for rotation about a stationary stay bolt 43 as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3.
  • a two-armed combination torsion spring and compression spring 44 surrounding the stay bolt 43 urges the bearing lever 38 into engagement with an adjusting ring 45 which is secured on the upper ,end of the stay bolt 43, as shown in FIG. 3.
  • the combination torsion spring and compression spring 44 includes an arm portion 46 which is anchored in position on the cloth supporting plate of the sewing machine 3, and an opposite arm portion 47 which bears against the bearing lever 38 and urges it in a direction to cause engagement of the roller 39 against the guide ledge 25 of the pattern bar 23.
  • a stop pin 48 is arranged in the path of movement of the lever 38 and it limits the maximum rotary movement of the lever when the pattern bar 23 is withdrawn.
  • a parallel carrier (not shown) may be also employed for supporting the rotary cutter 35 and its drive motor in a position at which the cutting edge thereof will be accurately positioned in respect to the workpiece W.
  • the compressed air motors 19 and 20 are connected through flexible hose lines 49 and 50, as shown in FlG. l, to a compressed air source (not shown) and they are controlled preferably by electromagnetic valves (not shown).
  • the control of the valves as well as the sewing machine motor 7 and the feed motor 1 I and the cutter motor 37 can be effected either by hand or by an automatic control.
  • the device of the invention operates as follows:
  • the workpiece W which is to be provided with darts, for example, the front part of a jacket, is folded at the point provided for the dart and, as a rule, is provided with an indication mark and aligned under the pressure ledge 24 of the pattern bar 23 which is first lifted by the action of the compressed air motors l9 and 20.
  • the pattern bar 23 is subsequently lowered to cause the pressure ledge 24 to engage over the workpiece W at a location to leave a width necessary for the seam.
  • the workpiece W is thus engaged frictionally by the pressure ledge 24.
  • the motors 7, l1 and 37 are then started.
  • the motor 7 drives the sewing machine through the belt 8 while the motor 37 starts the polygonal blade 35 which is secured on the shaft 36.
  • the motor 11 displaces the carriage 13 with the carrier 16 and thus the feed bar 23 which is carried on the arms 17 and 18.
  • the feed bar then advances the workpiece W from the starting position indicated in FIG. 2 in a direction of the arrow D, shown in FIGS. 2 and 4.
  • the dart seam form is determined by the configuration of the guide ledge 25 which passes between the guide rollers and 31 which are arranged on the sewing system.
  • the seam which is formed is indicated by the broken line designated S in FIG. 2.
  • the seam can be locked from the start to the end by closer stitches or by making the stitches with a brief reversal of the direction of feed.
  • the dart is conducted into the U-shaped guide 32 arranged behind the stitch forming point and passes the slot 34 and the polygonal blade 35.
  • the blade protrudes through the slot 34 between the cloth layers of the dart fold, as seen particularly in FIG. 4.
  • the dart fold is thus cut open during the sewing along the folding edge.
  • the cloth layers of the dart fold are supported by the guide 32 from both sides and can therefore not yield.
  • the use of a polygonal blade as a cutting tool ensures a satisfactory execution of the cut even with relatively thin materials.
  • the depth of penetration C, as shwon in FIG. 2, of the cutting tool working between the cloth layers of the dart fold can be adjusted by varying the position of the movable part 40 on the bearing lever 38.
  • a zone a of the workpiece, which is not cut open in order to ensure the durability of the seam, will be of a length which depends upon the penetration of the blade 35.
  • the motors 7, 11 and 37 are shutoff by a limit switch, for example, (not shown) which may be located on the frame 1 in the path of the carriage 16 or the carriage 13 and it may be connected to the chain 12 at the end of the displacement path of the feed bar 23.
  • the feed bar 23 is lifted from the workpiece W by a supply of compressed air to the motors l9 and 20 and the workpiece is'then removed.
  • the feed bar 23 may be brought back to the starting position, shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, by starting the motor 11, and a new workpiece is then placed under the pressure ledge 24 and the process is repeated.
  • the stop pin 48 limits the rotary movement of the spring-loaded bearing lever 38.
  • a dart made with a device according to the invention is shown in FIG. 5 in a condition after ironing.
  • a very short zone a which is not cut open, is located adjacent the dart point.
  • the free cloth edges of the open dart fold are relatively wide and they can be easily separated from each other for ironing.
  • the flat ironing of the uncut part of the dart is substantially facilitated by the easy handling of the wide edges because the uncut part in the zone a of the dart is already 'preshaped during the flat ironing of the free edges.
  • a device for forming darts on a seing system using a sewing machine comprising means defining a feed path along which the folded workpiece cloth is fed, a sewing machine located along the feed path, a feed bar having an upstanding guide ledge and a flat pressing plate portion engageable with the workpiece, means for moving the feed bar with the workpiece along the feed path to move the workpiece into engagement with the sewing machine for sewing a seam therealong, cutter means adjacent said feed path for cutting the workpiece along the fold line, and a U-shaped guide member having two leg portions between which the folded end of the workpiece is guided and having a connecting web between the leg portions with cutter access slot into which the cutter projects for cutting along the fold edge and between the folded layers of the workpiece.
  • a device for forming darts on a sewing system ac-
  • said cutter means includes a pivotal bearing lever, means mounting said bearing lever for pivotal movement substantially perpendicular 'to the displacement plane of the workpiece, a cutter rotatably supported on said bearing lever, said bearing lever having a guide part engaged with said guide edge for controlling the position of said cutter relative to the workpiece and which is movable with the configuration of the guide ledge to move said bearing lever with said cutter toward and away from the workpiece.
  • a device for forming darts on a sewing system wherein said guide part of said bearing lever comprises a member mounted on said bearing lever and being adjustably displaceable in respect theretoand having a roller thereon engaged with said guide ledge, said guide part being adjustable in respect to said bearing lever in order to vary the spacing of said knife in respect to the workpiece.
  • a device for forming darts on a sewing system according to claim 1, wherein said cutter means comprises a rotatable polygonal blade.
  • a device for forming darts on a sewing system ac-
  • a device for producing open darts comprising a' table defining a support surface over which a workpiece is fed, a pressing and feed bar having an upstanding guide edge and a flat pressing plate portion engageable with the workpiece, a carriage carrying said pressing and feed bar and having means for moving said pressing and feed bar toward and away from the workpiece to effect engagement and disengagement of the workpiece, means connected to said carriage for moving said carriage to advance the feed bar with the workpiece along the table, a sewing machine located along said table in a position to operate on the workpiece as it is fed along said table, a bearing lever pivotally mounted adjacent one end alongside said table, a rotatable cutter carried on said bearing lever, means for biasing said bearing lever in a direction to position said cutter in engagement with the workpiece on the table, a U-shaped guide member located adjacent said table and having two leg portions between which the folded end of a workpiece is guided and having a connecting a web portion between the leeg portions with a cutter access slot into which said cutter projects, and guide ing in respect to

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US00322937A 1972-02-01 1973-01-12 Device for feeding the cloth in a sewing system for the production of open darts Expired - Lifetime US3808992A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE7203543 1972-02-01

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US3808992A true US3808992A (en) 1974-05-07

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US00322937A Expired - Lifetime US3808992A (en) 1972-02-01 1973-01-12 Device for feeding the cloth in a sewing system for the production of open darts

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JP (1) JPS5317936Y2 (ru)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3964409A (en) * 1973-10-12 1976-06-22 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh Device for sewing and cutting-open tucks on cut pieces of garments
EP0190229A1 (en) * 1984-07-26 1986-08-13 Pacific Dunlop Ltd CONVEYOR AND GUIDE DEVICE FOR SEWING SOFT TEXTILES.
US5062374A (en) * 1990-08-23 1991-11-05 Clinton Industries, Inc. Rotary thread cutter for a sewing machine
US20040232188A1 (en) * 2002-10-04 2004-11-25 Peter Lisec Process and device for moving and positioning sheets of glass
US20160031113A1 (en) * 2013-03-11 2016-02-04 Windmöller & Hölscher Kg Device for separating a tubular web

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1925841A (en) * 1928-11-05 1933-09-05 Harry L Diehl Gut string splitting peg
US1942128A (en) * 1930-04-03 1934-01-02 Sommer Ernst Work supporting and guiding means
US2038853A (en) * 1934-12-28 1936-04-28 Topstitch Machine Corp Overseaming and pinking machine
US2172569A (en) * 1939-09-12 Method for producing topstitching
US2566639A (en) * 1946-06-05 1951-09-04 Washington Mills Company Cutting machine
US3726241A (en) * 1970-10-29 1973-04-10 Clarkson Ltd W J Material stitching apparatus
US3759200A (en) * 1971-06-19 1973-09-18 Rimoldi C Spa Virginio Apparatus for producing stitching patterns with adjustable workclamp apertures

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2172569A (en) * 1939-09-12 Method for producing topstitching
US1925841A (en) * 1928-11-05 1933-09-05 Harry L Diehl Gut string splitting peg
US1942128A (en) * 1930-04-03 1934-01-02 Sommer Ernst Work supporting and guiding means
US2038853A (en) * 1934-12-28 1936-04-28 Topstitch Machine Corp Overseaming and pinking machine
US2566639A (en) * 1946-06-05 1951-09-04 Washington Mills Company Cutting machine
US3726241A (en) * 1970-10-29 1973-04-10 Clarkson Ltd W J Material stitching apparatus
US3759200A (en) * 1971-06-19 1973-09-18 Rimoldi C Spa Virginio Apparatus for producing stitching patterns with adjustable workclamp apertures

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3964409A (en) * 1973-10-12 1976-06-22 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh Device for sewing and cutting-open tucks on cut pieces of garments
EP0190229A1 (en) * 1984-07-26 1986-08-13 Pacific Dunlop Ltd CONVEYOR AND GUIDE DEVICE FOR SEWING SOFT TEXTILES.
EP0190229A4 (en) * 1984-07-26 1986-11-27 Pacific Dunlop Ltd CONVEYOR AND GUIDE DEVICE FOR SEWING SOFT TEXTILES.
US5062374A (en) * 1990-08-23 1991-11-05 Clinton Industries, Inc. Rotary thread cutter for a sewing machine
US20040232188A1 (en) * 2002-10-04 2004-11-25 Peter Lisec Process and device for moving and positioning sheets of glass
US7207250B2 (en) * 2002-10-04 2007-04-24 Peter Lisec Process and device for moving and positioning sheets of glass
US20160031113A1 (en) * 2013-03-11 2016-02-04 Windmöller & Hölscher Kg Device for separating a tubular web
US10882204B2 (en) * 2013-03-11 2021-01-05 Windmöller & Hölscher Kg Device for separating a tubular web

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5317936Y2 (ru) 1978-05-13
JPS4892157U (ru) 1973-11-06

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