US3663963A

US3663963A - Waist band assembly

Info

Publication number: US3663963A
Application number: US70270A
Authority: US
Inventors: Samuel E Miller
Original assignee: Quick Service Textiles Inc
Current assignee: Quick Service Textiles Inc
Priority date: 1970-09-08
Filing date: 1970-09-08
Publication date: 1972-05-23
Anticipated expiration: 1989-05-23

Abstract

A waist band assembly for an article of wearing apparel, e.g. trousers, which includes a woven strip to preclude rolling over of the outer edge portion of the waist band. In order to perform its function, the strip has a degree of inherent rigidity but is flexible in the sense that its presence does not discommode the wearer or detract from the appearance of the article. These characteristics are obtained by using a comparatively stiff thread in the weft, usually monofilament of nylon. In the present disclosure the strip so characterized is rendered longitudinally stretchable by the use of an elastic yarn, e.g. a crimped yarn, in the warp which extends in the longitudinal direction of the strip, and the warp and weft are locked by an elastic substance.

Description

United States Patent [451 May 23, 1972 Miller [54] WAIST BAND ASSEMBLY [72] Inventor: Samuel E. Miller, Winnetka,ll1.

[73] Assignee: Quick Service Textiles, Inc., Chicago, 111.

[22] Filed: Sept. 8, 1970 211 App1.No.: 70,270

[521 US. Cl.. ..2/237 51 Int. Cl. ..A4ld 1106 [58] Field ofSearch ..161/90,91;2/237, 236, 221,

[561' References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,155,986 11/1964 I Miller ..2/236 3,485,707 12/1969 Spicer 161/91 X 2,757,381 8/1956 Cottier et a1. ..2/237 2,628,928 2/1953 Cadous ..2/22l X g ow Primary Examiner-11. Hampton Hunter Attorney-Leonard S. Knox ABSTRACT A waist band assembly for an article of wearing apparel, e.g. trousers, which includes a woven strip to preclude rolling over of the outer edge portion of the waist band. In order to perform its function, the strip has a degree of inherent rigidity but is flexible in the sense that its presence does not discommode the wearer or detract from the appearance of the article. These characteristics are obtained by using a comparatively stiff thread in the weft, usually monofilament of nylon. 1n the present disclosure the strip so characterized is rendered longitudinally stretchable by the use of an elastic yarn, e.g. a crimped yarn, in the warp which extends in the longitudinal direction of the strip, and the warp and weft are locked by an elastic substance.

7 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures Patented May 23, 1972 N VEN TOR Samuel flflfiiller 65 M; w

WAIST BAND ASSEMBLY BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In my US. Pat. No. 3,155,986, granted Nov. 10, 1964, there is disclosed a waist band assembly wherein one component of the assembly is a comparatively rigid, yet resilient fabric strip which is utilized to preclude rolling over of the edge of the garment at which the waist band is located. The strip has an inwardly-concave transverse curvature which, combined with the resilience of the weft, exerts a force on the shell fabric in a direction toward the wearer. Thus embonpoint which tends to cause roll-over of the garment, e.g. trousers, is resisted. In order to exert the desired force and yet possess the yieldability to adapt to the movements of the wearer with consequent freedom from discomfort, the strip, in a preferred form comprises a woven fabric having a mono-filament in the weft and a warp which is elastic in the longitudinal direction in order to provide a garment which may be fitted snugly to the person and which may yield to compensate for variations in the persons body. The elastic thread may be a crimped yarn or natural or synthetic rubber as disclosed in my co-pending applications, Ser. No. 884,973, filed Dec. 15, 1969 and Ser. No. 15,398 filed Mar. 2, 1970. The strip may be incorporated in the waist band assembly in its flat condition. However, by reason of the thermoplastic weft the initially flat strip may be molded under heat into a curved transverse cross section. The flat strip may be obtained by slitting a wide fabric.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to improvements in a waist band assembly incorporating a stiffening strip of the character described to preclude roll-over and provide elasticity in the longitudinal direction.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING In the drawing:

FIG. 1 is an enlarged section taken transversely of the waist band region of a garment, e.g. trousers, showing the relationship of the several elements comprising a waist band assembly incorporating the principles of the invention;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a section of the longitudinally-extensible stiffening strip;

FIG. 3 is a side elevation, with a portion of the elastic substance removed, of the strip shown in FIG. 2;

FIGS. 4 and 5 are somewhat enlarged cross sections taken on the lines 4-4 and 5-5 respectively of FIG. 3; and

FIGS. 6 and 7 are views similar to FIG. 1 showing alternative forms of the waist band assembly.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT By way of example, the invention will be described with reference to a waist band assembly for a pair of trousers, although it will be evident that the same is adaptable to other garments such as skirts, girdles and brassieres having an edge portion, not in the form of a waist band in the ordinary sense, but which is designed to resist roll-over.

The waist band 10, sometimes termed the shell fabric of the waist band, since it is essentially a matching continuation of the shell 11 of the garment, is joined to the shell by stitching 13. In conventional trousers the waist band is about 2 inches in width, and is folded over to define a bight l5 and an inner depending flap 16. Within the fold defined by the waist band 10 and flap 16 there is disposed a stifi'ening strip 18, best seen in FIG. 2, formed of fabric as disclosed in either of my said applications, or equivalent fabric characterized by resilience in the transverse direction and extensibility and recovery in the longitudinal direction. In order to possess the necessary resiliency in the transverse direction, the threads 21 constituting the weft are preferably a monofilament, e.g. nylon, capable of being woven and then, if desired, molded under heat to a curved cross section. Nylon is preferred as it will retain a molded shape notwithstanding laundering and dry cleaning operations, and is not adversely affected by imparting a so-called permanent press" condition to the garment.

In order that the other components of the waist band assembly will yield and recover in compliance with stretching and relaxation of the elastic strip 18, these may be of stretch fabric, e.g. knit or bias-cut. Insofar as concerns the rows of stitches joining the several components, the required elasticity may be imparted by feeding the thread under a sufficiently low tension and/or using an elastic thread, e. g. nylon or polyester.

The waist band assembly may take many different forms. Those illustrated in FIG. 1, 6 and 7 are typical and, insofar as concerns the positioning of the stiffening strip and its relation to the other components, the construction is essentially the same. In FIG. 1 the component 10 will be of longitudinally elastic material so as to yield and recover jointly with the strip 18, e.g. stretch broadcloth, double knit fabric, Spandex, and the like. The term spandex denominates a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic elastomer comprised of at least percent of a segmented polyurethane. The strip 30 may be bias cut fabric. This latter is sewed to the components 10 and 18 by a row of stitches 31. Further a curtain 34 is sewed to the strip 18 and the folded up lower marginal area of the component 30 by a row of stitches 35.

The assemblies of FIGS. 6 and 7 are substantially the same as those of FIG. 1. The curtain is omitted in FIG. 6. In this example a row of stitches 35a passes through all of the layers of fabric comprising the assembly. FIG. 7 has an elastic skirt 38 to provide a body-hugging effect. In both of these figures the stiffening strip is sewed to the inwardly-folded waist band or 10b by stitches 37a and 37b respectively.

For clarity in the drawing the several components of the waist band assembly and their spacing are intentionally exaggerated.

Turning to FIGS. 2, 3 and 4, it will be noted that the weft threads 21 are relatively short, say on the order of 1% inches and, further, that they are resilient, i.e. are incapable of assuming the wavy form which a conventional, non-synthetic thread will assume when woven. Accordingly, in the initial form of the fabric, i.e., prior to coating or impregnation with an elastic substance, the weft threads 21 may be easily dislodged. To avert such dislodgment the fabric, preferably in the wide form in which it is initially woven, is impregnated or laminated with an elastic substance not only to bond the warp and weft at their intersections but to impart longitudinal extensibility and recovery, as disclosed in my said applications. When the elastic substance has been incorporated with the fabric and the latter then slit into strips, the substance tends to mask and shield the sharp ends of the weft threads and thus avoid an abrasive edge.

The warp threads 40 and the rubber film or impregnation 41 are as disclosed in my application, Ser. No. I5,398. In the example, the warp threads 40 are crimped yarn and are fed with as little tension as possible, viz., such as will result in a flat-lying fabric lending itself to pattern transfer, cutting and other operations incapable of being performed or performed only with difilculty if the fabric is buckled or puckered. In the example, the count of the warp 40 was 35 ends of crimped nylon per inch, and the filling or weft comprising threads 21 was 32 picks of 14.5 mil, type 66 monofilament nylon per inch. The filling may be a synthetic monofilament, e.g. nylon or Dacron, or a natural monofilament, e.g. horse hair. For special applications, the filling may be mineral fiber, such as glass or metal. After weaving, the base fabric is desirably shrunk, which relaxes the warp and yields greater elongation.

Thereafter, the film 41 of an elastic substance, say 0.010 inch in thickness, is integrated with the base fabric by any of the methods set forth in the following paragraphs:

If a simple film is used and bonded to the base fabric by heating, this step may be accomplished by any suitable method, e.g. by radio-frequency energy. To this end the film and base fabric are rolled together with a paper barrier and the bolt placed within a cylindrical container. The container is placed in a field of radio-frequency energy which is suitably controlled whereby the film is plasticized to a degree such as will effect a tenacious bond between it and the base fabric. The end product will appear as in the figure.

The step of applying the film may be performed by knife coating." In this procedure the elastomer, e.g. a nitrile in liquid form, is poured on to the travelling base fabric, reduced to a film of suitable thickness by a doctor blade and cured. Other elastomers, such as latex, neoprenes, resins, plastisols and other materials may be used provided that they are characterized by the required elasticity following drying and/or curing.

Other methods of integrating the film with the base fabric are by cementing or flame bonding. [n the former case an adhesive is interposed and both the base fabric and film subjected to pressure to assure a reliable bond. In the latter case the base fabric is advanced in one plane, usually horizontal, and the film in another plane at an angle to the first. Just before the two meet, heat is applied to the film to plasticize the same, whereafter both pass under a pressure roller which impresses the softened film into the base fabric. Alternatively the pressure step may be omitted. The assembly is allowed to cool naturally or, due to the nature of the material of the film, it may be subjected to other physical or chemical treatment.

Since the base fabric per se is capable of elongation, there is still another method of incorporating the elastic material therewith. In accordance therewith, the base fabric is fed without tension at an angle to a belt of so-called release paper moving in a horizontal plane. The elastic substance, in pasty form, is deposited on the paper which then travels beneath a doctor blade in order to spread the substance to the desired thickness. The base fabric meets, and then travels along with the film and paper through an oven to set the film. The paper may be re-used or fed as a continuous piece and discarded. If re-used, a second doctor blade is employed on the lower reach of the belt to scrape ofi any excess substance.

As an alternative embodiment, a fabric may be produced using a non-crimped warp yarn and a filling of sufficiently low count to enable the warp to be relaxed. In this case the film is applied and integrated with the base fabric while the composite is over-fed in order to relax the fabric in the warp direction. The end result will be substantially equivalent to the case wherein crimped yarn is employed.

By employing crimped yarn and subsequently integrating an elastic film with the base fabric, one may obtain stretch and recovery at least equal to those resulting from the use of the more expensive elastomers, e.g. spandex.

However, a further modification resides in a warp comprising an elastic yarn, e.g. spandex or unwrapped rubber alternated with a conventional cotton yarn or equivalent, comparatively non-stretchable yam. Unwrapped rubber costs substantially less than the wrapped version. In this case, the fabric is woven under tension so that, during winding-up, the cotton yarn or its equivalent retracts to a crimped state. The thuscomposed base fabric is then integrated with the film as described above. Although the foregoing alternative embodiment is higher in cost, it may be preferred for some purposes.

It will be understood that the wide fabric may be slit by means of a cold knife into such widths as may be desired, e.g. strips 1 inch wide for incorporation into a waist band assembly.

I claim:

1. A longitudinally-stretchable assembly for a marginal portion, such as the waist, of an article of wearing apparel to preclude roll-over and to impart a resilient, body-hugging characteristic to said portion comprising: a shell waistband which is elastic in the longitudinal, peripheral direction of the assembly, the outer edge of said shell waistband being formed into an inward fold, a strip of textile fabric on the inside of the shell waistband, said strip having monofilaments in the weft direction to preclude roll-over of said marginal portion and an elastic warp in said longitudinal, peripheral direction, an elastic substance on said strip whereby said monofilaments and said elastic warp are bound to each other, the outer edge of said strip being disposed within the fold and adjacent the bight thereof, and means securing the strip within the fold.

2. The assembly in accordance with claim 1 further characterized in that said strip is curved transversely, the concavity whereof facing inwardly.

3. The assembly in accordance with claim 1 in which said elastic warp comprises crimped yarn.

4. The assembly in accordance with claim 1 in which said elastic warp comprises crimped yarn.

5. The assembly in accordance with claim 1 further characterized by an interior curtain of peripherally elastic character positioned below the shell waist band and sewed thereto.

6. The combination in accordance with claim 1, in which the elastic warp comprises ends of an elastomer alternated with ends of yarn which is less stretchable than said elastomer.

7. The combination, in accordance with claim 1 further characterized by said elastic substance comprising a layer on one face of the strip.