US353720A - walker - Google Patents

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US353720A
US353720A US353720DA US353720A US 353720 A US353720 A US 353720A US 353720D A US353720D A US 353720DA US 353720 A US353720 A US 353720A
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needle
work
bar
loop
plate
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B23/00Sewing apparatus or machines not otherwise provided for
    • D05B23/001Straw hat sewing machines

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  • My invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing straw plait and suitable for the manufacture of straw hats and bonnets.
  • My invention consists in the employment of two needlesa barbed needle operating verticallyor obliquely, arranged above the workplate, and an eyepointed needle arranged obliquely below the work platethe said needles being arranged to operate at an angle to each other and in combination with a looper or other suitable device.
  • the under needle, or that beneath the work-plate is of the ordinary sewing-machine type and carries the cotton.
  • the said needle pierces the work obliquely or at an angle thereto, carrying the thread through the work.
  • the upper needle (or that above the work-plate) may operate either vertically or obliquely, and is provided with a barb which takes the loop of thread brought up by the under needle and carries the said loop through the work as the said upper needle descends.
  • the looper or other device takes the loop from the upper needle, and the feedmovement carries the said loop over the point of the under needle at its return movement, and thus a succession of chain or loop stitches is formed,showing a long stitch (from a quarter to a half inch long) on the under side of the material and a very short stitch on the upper side.
  • Figure 1 is a side elevation of my improved machine.
  • Fig. 2 is a front end elevation of the same.
  • Fig. 5 illustrates the means for adjusting the upper needle when the said needle operates vertically.
  • Fig. Si a view of the can disk which operates the lower needle.
  • Fig. 9 is a view of the can disk which operates the lower needle.
  • Figs. 10 to 13 are diagrams illustrating the method of forming the stitch.
  • Fig. 14 shows the barbed needle on an enlarged scale.
  • A is the framing and base of the machine.
  • B is the driving-wheel. Ois the main or driving shaft. D is the shaft from which the upper needle-bar is operated, and E is the shaft from which the lower needle-bar is operated.
  • the upper needle, a is carried by the bar I), and the said bar is fitted so as to work freely 7o in a dovetail-slot in the plate a.
  • the needle and its bar have a reciprocating motion vertically or at right angles to the work, as shown in Fig. 3; or they may operate in a slightly-oblique position, as shown in Fig. 2, the point of the needle being directed toward the operator.
  • the needle and bar are provided with means whereby the needle can be adjusted so as to vary the point at which it shall enter the work,and consequently (as hereinafter explained) the length of the stitch on the face of the work.
  • Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 illustrate the means I employ for adjusting the needle a when it operates vertically.
  • Fig. 3 is a front end View of the bracket A, with plate 0 and needlebar I) and means for adjustment.
  • Fig. 4 is an edge view of the same.
  • Fig. 5 is aview of the face of the bracket A, and
  • Fig. 6 an edge view of the same.
  • Fig. 7 is aview of the back of the plate c,in which the needle-bar 1) works.
  • the back of the plate 0 is formed with a horizontal rib, c, which fits and slides freely in a horizontal groove, A in the face of the bracket A.
  • a horizontal rib, c In about the center of the said groove A is a slot, A, and near the outer end of the said grooveA is a pin or stud, A (See Figs. and 6.)
  • the rib c on the plate 0 bemeans of a screw, A.
  • the said plate is clamped to the bracket A by
  • the outer edge of the back of the plate 0 is formed with a recess, 0, to receive the stem of the shouldered adjusting-screw '0 the threaded portion of which screw screws into a hole, 0, in the body of the plate a.
  • the stem of the screw 0 has a circumferential groove, p in which groove,when the parts are fitted together, the pin A on the bracket A works:
  • the plate 0 can be moved along the groove A in the bracket A, and the position of the needle'adjusted as desired. After the adjustment the clamping-screw A is again tightened up.
  • the requisite reciprocating motion is imparted to the needle a from the rock-shaft D by means of the arm or lever e, securedon the forward end of the said rock-shaft and pivotally connected to one end of the linkf, which is pivotally connected at its other end to the needle-bar b.
  • the rock-shaft D receives its motion from the main shaft 6 by means ofthe eccentric g and eccentric-rod 9, connected to the arm orlever h, secured onthe rear end of the said rock-shaft.
  • needle a is formed with a barb, a, a short distance from its point, (as clearly shown in the enlarged view, Fig. 14,) the point of the said barb being in -the direction of the point of the needle.
  • the object of this barb will be hereinafter explained.
  • the lower needle, i which is of the ordinary sewing-machine type, andcarries the cotton, is carried by the needle-bar j, which is'fitted to work freely in'an oblique dovetail slot inthe standard k, secured to the frame or base A of the machine.
  • the needle 13 enters the work at about an angle of forty-five degrees, and is so arranged that when th rough the work it crosses the path of the upper needle, a, the upper needle, a, being so arranged as to pass close to the needle i when the two needles cross each other.
  • the lower needle is operated by the arm or lever Z on the forward end of the rockshaft E, the said arm or lever being pivotally connected toa link, m, pivoted on the needlebar j. Motion is imparted to the rock-shaft .E from the main shaft 0 by means of the arm or lever n and cam-disk o, the pin and frict-iom groove 0 of the said cam-disk.
  • the needles be so arranged that the upper needle, a, crosses the lower needle, i, when the latter is above the work,.and enters theloop of thread formed by the lower needle, and carries it through the work at a point in advance of that at which the work was pierced, and the loop brought up through the work by the under needle.
  • the distance between the point at which thelo'wer needle enters the work and that at which the upper needle enters the work is the length of the stitch on the upper surface of the said work.
  • the looperp (shown in the drawings) is carriedby the vibrating arm or lever q, mounted on the rock-shaft r, motion being imparted to the said shaft by the arm or lever s on the inner end of the said shaft, connected tothe eccentric t on the driving-shaft O.
  • the point of the looper p is formed with a recess, 10', in which recess the point of the needle z'lies when the looper is at the end of its forward stroke,
  • the serrated feed-bar u is carried by a stem, u, which slides in a vertical groove in the horizontal bar 21.
  • This bar a is hinged to the rocking arm w, which is pivoted at w.
  • the strap 3 is carried on a rocking arm, y, pivoted at-y, and the said strap fits over an eccentric, 3 on the driving-shaft C.
  • a bar, 1 which on its other end carries a pin, yflwhich works in a cam-slot, w, in the rocking arm 10.
  • the pin is provided with any suitable device whereby it may be clamped in any desired position in the slot w
  • the revolution of the eccentric y within the strap y rocks the, arm :1/ and imparts, through the bar y", the backward and forward movement of the feed, the extent of the movement being regulated by raising or loweringthe pin y (on the end of the: bar 31) inthe cam-slot w,
  • the revolution of the eccentric y within the strap y rocks the, arm :1/ and imparts, through the bar y", the backward and forward movement of the feed, the extent of the movement being regulated by raising or loweringthe pin y (on the end of the: bar 31) inthe cam-slot w,
  • the revolution of the eccentric y within the strap y rocks the, arm :1/ and imparts, through the bar y", the backward and forward movement of the feed, the extent of the movement being regulated by raising or loweringthe pin y (on the end of the: bar 31) inthe cam-slot
  • eccentrics x and may be cast in one piece with the boss y, by which they can conveniently be secured on the shaft 0.
  • the bell-crank lever 3 is'pivoted to the frame of the machine, and its end 4 is slotted or forked so as to receive the standard 2, this slotted end of the bell-crank lever being under the lower tension-disk.
  • the other end of the said lever carries a friction-roller, 5.
  • the spring 6 on the standard 2 normally keeps the end 4 of the lever pressed against the lower tension-disk, and also keeps the frictiou-roller 5 in contact with the cam 7 on the main shaft 0.
  • This cam 7 causes the end 4 of the lever to depress the spring 6, except during the passage of the friction-roller 5 over the flat side 8 of the said cam, when the spring 6, being released from the pressure of the lever, forces the end 4 of the lever against the tension-disks 1 with sufficient power to stop the passage of the cotton through the said tensiondisks.
  • the earn 7 is so arranged on the shaft as to put on the tension and stop the passage I of the cotton from the completion of the upward stroke of the needle 13 until the needle a has entered the loop and received the cotton into its barb a.
  • the operation of my improved machine is as follows:
  • This movement of the needle z causes the cotton to be drawn round the upper needle, a, so that the barb a of the said needle takes the cotton and carries it through the work, as shown in Fig. 11, the cotton being gripped between the tension-disks 1, while the barb a is taking the loop of thread.
  • the looper p is timed to take the loop at the'return movement of the'upper needle, a, as shown in Fig.
  • the stitch formed is a short double thread on the top of the work, varying in length according to the adjustment of the upper needle, (1, and its bar I), and a long single and treble thread on the under side of the work, varying in length according to the adjustment of the feed-movement.
  • the needle-bar carrying the barbed needle a arranged to operate vertically or obliquely above the work-plate, and means for adjusting the same with the eye-pointed needle 6 below the work-plate, and alooper, combined, arranged, and operating substantially as herein set forth.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(ModeL) 4 Sheets-Sheet 1. W. WALKER.
SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Dem '7, 1886.
N PETERS Pimla-Lnhn n iw. wmhzn im B. C.
4 Sheets-Sheet 2.
(Model.
W. WALKER. SEWING MACHINE.
No. 353,720. Patented Dec. 7, 1886.
Wtwsa.
'lnvent r (2 6, fliaaam/ N PETERS. Phmb-Llthn n hur. Wa'shmglumUJC.
4 R E K L A W W SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Dec. 7, 1886.
4 Sheets-Sheet 4.
(ModeL) .W. WALKER.
SEWING MACHINE.
No. 353,720. Patented Dec. '7, 1886.
Illllllllllllllls' 6.5-, mtMhh-n/ wt N PETERS. PhMo-blhogrnphnr, Washington, D. C.
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
WILLIAM WALKER, OF LUTON, COUNTY OF BEDFORD, ENGLAND.
SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 353,720, dated December 7, 1886.
Application filed May 11, 1886. Serial No. 201,810.
(ModeL) Patented in England June 24, 1885, No. 7,694, and in France April li, 1886, No. 115,417.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, WILLIAM WALKER, a subject of Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain, residing at Luton, in the county of Bedford, England, haveinvented new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, (for which I have obtained Letters Patent in Great Britain, No. 7,694, bearing date June 24, 1885, and Letters Patent in the Republic of France on April 14, 1886, No. 175,477,) of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this specification.
My invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing straw plait and suitable for the manufacture of straw hats and bonnets.
My invention consists in the employment of two needlesa barbed needle operating verticallyor obliquely, arranged above the workplate, and an eyepointed needle arranged obliquely below the work platethe said needles being arranged to operate at an angle to each other and in combination with a looper or other suitable device. The under needle, or that beneath the work-plate, is of the ordinary sewing-machine type and carries the cotton. The said needle pierces the work obliquely or at an angle thereto, carrying the thread through the work. The upper needle (or that above the work-plate) may operate either vertically or obliquely, and is provided with a barb which takes the loop of thread brought up by the under needle and carries the said loop through the work as the said upper needle descends. The looper or other device takes the loop from the upper needle, and the feedmovement carries the said loop over the point of the under needle at its return movement, and thus a succession of chain or loop stitches is formed,showing a long stitch (from a quarter to a half inch long) on the under side of the material and a very short stitch on the upper side. By thus locating the eye-pointed needle carrying the thread on the under side, 5 the work can be passed right side up under the pressenfoot and a very limited amount of thread be run through the perforations made,
and the operator is enabled to see the sewing produced on the upper or right-side surface of the material and easily control its course.
In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of my improved machine. Fig. 2 is a front end elevation of the same. Figs. 3, 4,
5, 6, and 7 illustrate the means for adjusting the upper needle when the said needle operates vertically. Fig. Sis a view of the can disk which operates the lower needle. Fig. 9
is an elevation of the stop-tension device. Figs. 10 to 13 are diagrams illustrating the method of forming the stitch. Fig. 14 shows the barbed needle on an enlarged scale.
Like letters indicate like parts in all the u res.
A is the framing and base of the machine.
B is the driving-wheel. Ois the main or driving shaft. D is the shaft from which the upper needle-bar is operated, and E is the shaft from which the lower needle-bar is operated.
The upper needle, a, is carried by the bar I), and the said bar is fitted so as to work freely 7o in a dovetail-slot in the plate a. The said plate c,with the needle-bar and needle,are supported over the work-plate d by the bracket A of the frame of the machine. The needle and its bar have a reciprocating motion vertically or at right angles to the work, as shown in Fig. 3; or they may operate in a slightly-oblique position, as shown in Fig. 2, the point of the needle being directed toward the operator. In both cases the needle and bar are provided with means whereby the needle can be adjusted so as to vary the point at which it shall enter the work,and consequently (as hereinafter explained) the length of the stitch on the face of the work.
Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 illustrate the means I employ for adjusting the needle a when it operates vertically. Fig. 3 is a front end View of the bracket A, with plate 0 and needlebar I) and means for adjustment. Fig. 4 is an edge view of the same. Fig. 5 is aview of the face of the bracket A, and Fig. 6 an edge view of the same. Fig. 7 is aview of the back of the plate c,in which the needle-bar 1) works.
The back of the plate 0 is formed with a horizontal rib, c, which fits and slides freely in a horizontal groove, A in the face of the bracket A. In about the center of the said groove A is a slot, A, and near the outer end of the said grooveA is a pin or stud, A (See Figs. and 6.) The rib c on the plate 0 bemeans of a screw, A.
ing inserted into the groove A (as in Fig. 4,) the said plate is clamped to the bracket A by The outer edge of the back of the plate 0 is formed with a recess, 0, to receive the stem of the shouldered adjusting-screw '0 the threaded portion of which screw screws into a hole, 0, in the body of the plate a. The stem of the screw 0 has a circumferential groove, p in which groove,when the parts are fitted together, the pin A on the bracket A works: Thus by loosening the screw A and turning the screw 0 the plate 0 can be moved along the groove A in the bracket A, and the position of the needle'adjusted as desired. After the adjustment the clamping-screw A is again tightened up.
When the needle operates in a slightly-oblique position, as shown in Fig. 2, I form on the back of the plate '0 a stud, 0", (see Fig. 1,) which fits into a socket, c, in the bracket A. Thestud c is tapped to receive the screw 0, which,'when screwed up tightly against the washers 0 holds the plate 0 firmly in position against'the face The stud 0 forms a pivot of the bracket A. for the plate 0, so that by loosening the screw 0 the plate 0, and with it the needle-bar b and needle a, can be adjusted so as to vary the angle at which the needle shall operate, the extent of the movement of the plate cbeing limited by the shoulder or abutment A;
The requisite reciprocating motion is imparted to the needle a from the rock-shaft D by means of the arm or lever e, securedon the forward end of the said rock-shaft and pivotally connected to one end of the linkf, which is pivotally connected at its other end to the needle-bar b. The rock-shaft D receives its motion from the main shaft 6 by means ofthe eccentric g and eccentric-rod 9, connected to the arm orlever h, secured onthe rear end of the said rock-shaft.
Theneedle a, is formed with a barb, a, a short distance from its point, (as clearly shown in the enlarged view, Fig. 14,) the point of the said barb being in -the direction of the point of the needle. The object of this barb will be hereinafter explained.
The lower needle, i, which is of the ordinary sewing-machine type, andcarries the cotton, is carried by the needle-bar j, which is'fitted to work freely in'an oblique dovetail slot inthe standard k, secured to the frame or base A of the machine. The needle 13 enters the work at about an angle of forty-five degrees, and is so arranged that when th rough the work it crosses the path of the upper needle, a, the upper needle, a, being so arranged as to pass close to the needle i when the two needles cross each other. The lower needle is operated by the arm or lever Z on the forward end of the rockshaft E, the said arm or lever being pivotally connected toa link, m, pivoted on the needlebar j. Motion is imparted to the rock-shaft .E from the main shaft 0 by means of the arm or lever n and cam-disk o, the pin and frict-iom groove 0 of the said cam-disk.
It is necessary that the needles be so arranged that the upper needle, a, crosses the lower needle, i, when the latter is above the work,.and enters theloop of thread formed by the lower needle, and carries it through the work at a point in advance of that at which the work was pierced, and the loop brought up through the work by the under needle. The distance between the point at which thelo'wer needle enters the work and that at which the upper needle enters the work is the length of the stitch on the upper surface of the said work.
I employ a looper or other suitable device,
to operate in combination with the needles a and '5, for the purpose of taking the loop from the needle a when below the work-plate and (in conjunction with the feed-movement) passing the said loop over the point of the needle '03. The looperp (shown in the drawings) is carriedby the vibrating arm or lever q, mounted on the rock-shaft r, motion being imparted to the said shaft by the arm or lever s on the inner end of the said shaft, connected tothe eccentric t on the driving-shaft O. The point of the looper p is formed with a recess, 10', in which recess the point of the needle z'lies when the looper is at the end of its forward stroke,
and thus thepassage of a loop ot'.'thread from the looperp over the point of the needle i is facilitated. Other suitable devices may be used instead of the looper p. Thusa sliding bar or rod might be employed, the said bar or rod workingin a horizontal line and having a suitably-pointed end for taking the loop from needle a and conveying it to needle t.
In 'the feeding arrangement shown in'the drawingsgthe serrated feed-bar u is carried by a stem, u, which slides in a vertical groove in the horizontal bar 21. 'This bar a is hinged to the rocking arm w, which is pivoted at w.
.The' stem u of the serrated feed-bar is bent.
under the bare and provided with a screw, u, setting in the under side of the bar 1;, by means of which screw the height of the serrated feedbar u can be adjusted. The eccentric x on the end of the driving-shaft 0 works in a horizontal groove, 12', in theforward end of the bar v,
IIS
and gives the rising and falling motions to the feed-bar. The strap 3 is carried on a rocking arm, y, pivoted at-y, and the said strap fits over an eccentric, 3 on the driving-shaft C. To the inner side of the strap 3 is pivoted a bar, 1 which on its other end carries a pin, yflwhich works in a cam-slot, w, in the rocking arm 10. The pin is provided with any suitable device whereby it may be clamped in any desired position in the slot w The revolution of the eccentric y within the strap y rocks the, arm :1/ and imparts, through the bar y", the backward and forward movement of the feed, the extent of the movement being regulated by raising or loweringthe pin y (on the end of the: bar 31) inthe cam-slot w, The
eccentrics x and may be cast in one piece with the boss y, by which they can conveniently be secured on the shaft 0.
To insure that the needle a shall properly Y take the loop of cotton brought up by the under needle, i, tension is put on the cotton from the time when the under needle is at its top stroke until the loop has entered the barb a on the upper needle. For this purpose I use the stop-tension device shown in Fig. 9. The cotton is passed through the tension-disks 1, and thence through suitable guides to the under needle, 2'. The tension-disks 1 are mounted on a suitable rod, 2, secured to the base of the machine, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. A short spiral spring and regulating-nut are arranged above the upper tension-disk. The bell-crank lever 3 is'pivoted to the frame of the machine, and its end 4 is slotted or forked so as to receive the standard 2, this slotted end of the bell-crank lever being under the lower tension-disk. The other end of the said lever carries a friction-roller, 5.
The spring 6 on the standard 2 normally keeps the end 4 of the lever pressed against the lower tension-disk, and also keeps the frictiou-roller 5 in contact with the cam 7 on the main shaft 0. This cam 7 causes the end 4 of the lever to depress the spring 6, except during the passage of the friction-roller 5 over the flat side 8 of the said cam, when the spring 6, being released from the pressure of the lever, forces the end 4 of the lever against the tension-disks 1 with sufficient power to stop the passage of the cotton through the said tensiondisks. The earn 7 is so arranged on the shaft as to put on the tension and stop the passage I of the cotton from the completion of the upward stroke of the needle 13 until the needle a has entered the loop and received the cotton into its barb a.
Any other suitable feeding mechanism which will give a regular or uniform feed to the work and any other suitable stop-tension device'niay, however, be employed with my improved machine instead of the feeding mechanism and stop-tension device hereinbefore described. I also wish it understood that I do not limit myself to the means above described for operating the needles and their bars, or the looper, as any other suitable means may be employed which will give the required movements to the said needles and bars and looper.
The operation of my improved machine is as follows: The under needle, i, carrying the cotton, passes up through the work, and the upper needle, a, is timed to descend and enter the loop of cotton thrown out by the return movement of the under needle, 6, as shown in Fig. 10. This movement of the needle z causes the cotton to be drawn round the upper needle, a, so that the barb a of the said needle takes the cotton and carries it through the work, as shown in Fig. 11, the cotton being gripped between the tension-disks 1, while the barb a is taking the loop of thread. The looper p is timed to take the loop at the'return movement of the'upper needle, a, as shown in Fig. 12, and carry the said loop forward close to the under needle, 71, the point of the said needle lying in the recess 1) at the point of the hook, as shown in Fig. 2. The feed movement, which takes place when the upper needle has cleared the work, carries the loop to the end of the looper p and over the point of the under needle, i, as shown in Fig. 13. The said needle moves forward through the loop, and the operations before described are repeated, thus forming a succession of loop or chain stitches.
The stitch formed is a short double thread on the top of the work, varying in length according to the adjustment of the upper needle, (1, and its bar I), and a long single and treble thread on the under side of the work, varying in length according to the adjustment of the feed-movement.
Having now particularly described the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is-- 1. In a machine for sewing straw plait, the combination of the barbed needle (1, arranged above the work-plate and provided with means of adjustment to vary the point at which it shall pierce the work, whereby it may be operated at various angles to the work, the eyepointed needle t below the work-plate, and the looper p, with mechanism for giving a regular and uniform feed to the work, the said needles a and i and looper being arranged and operating substantially in the manner herein set forth.
2. In a machine for sewing straw plait, the needle-bar carrying the barbed needle a, arranged to operate vertically or obliquely above the work-plate, and means for adjusting the same with the eye-pointed needle 6 below the work-plate, and alooper, combined, arranged, and operating substantially as herein set forth.
WILLIAM WALKER. [L. s.] l/Vitnesses:
WM. MOLELLAN, SIDNEY CLARKE HooK.
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