US3514249A - Stretchable woven fabrics - Google Patents

Stretchable woven fabrics Download PDF

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US3514249A
US3514249A US521813A US3514249DA US3514249A US 3514249 A US3514249 A US 3514249A US 521813 A US521813 A US 521813A US 3514249D A US3514249D A US 3514249DA US 3514249 A US3514249 A US 3514249A
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fabric
stretch
yarns
fiber
growth
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US521813A
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John W Bullington
John H Gustafson
Julian J Hirshfeld
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Monsanto Co
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Monsanto Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/52Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/152Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen having a hydroxy group bound to a carbon atom of a six-membered aromatic ring

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a novel process of imparting a stretch characteristic to fabrics having filling yarns cornprised of polyester fibers. More particularly, the invention relates to a novel method of imparting a stretch characteristic with maximum stretch growth to fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fibers.
  • Stretch fabrics have the capability to stretch when under tension and then to contract to their original dimension when the tension is released. Such a capability gives to articles made of these fabrics many improved characteristics, e.g. improves the appearance of the articles because the fabric can give with a strain and then assume its original shape when the strain is released; improves the comfort of articles (stretch characteristics permit the body to move with minimum restraint from stretch garments, thereby increasing comfort); improves the fullness or thickness of articles causing a pleasing illustration of lightness or featherness of hand; improves the drape of the articles; improves the crease retention of articles that are pressed with a crease; improves the wash and wear characteristics of fabrics that are utilized in wash and wear garments; and improves the sizing of the article (articles such as garments having a particular size can adapt to individual variations within that size).
  • the degree of stretch which is capable of imparting the above characteristics to the articles is usually at least about with a maximum of about 2.5% growth, i.e. the fabric will not dimensionally grow above 2.5% over
  • Stretch fabrics are particularly useful in the apparel wear. They have received popular use in shirts, slacks, jackets, shorts, skirts, uniforms, dresses, childrens wear, lingerie, suits, sportswear, etc.
  • the fabrics are also useful in domestic and home furnishings, for example in contour sheeting and mattress covers, drapes, upholstery, and numerous other items.
  • stretch fabrics on the market are fabrics Woven from stretchable yarns.
  • stretch yarns can be made by different, e.g. by twisting (either false or conventional twisting), by stuffer boX or gear crimp methods, by heating the yarn and drawing it over a crimping edge and by entangling the yarn with a stream of gas.
  • the stretch yarns are Woven into a fabric to give a stretchable fabric.
  • Such stretchable fabrics are expensive to make due to the processes of stretching the yarn and then weaving such yarns into a fabric.
  • a limited degree of stretch can be incorporated into fabrics by warp tensioning a fabric composed of thermoplastic yarns, that is causing the warp yarns to straighten and the filling yarns to pucker, and simultaneously heatsetting the yarns in such a position which results in a fabric having a fill stretch with good recovery.
  • Such a stretch process requires a large tensioning force and gives a limited amount of stretch to the fabric, usually less than 10%.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method of producing stretch fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber which are capable of stretching at least about 15% with a maximum of about 2.5% growth in the direction of the filling yarns.
  • Still another object of the invention is to provide a fabric having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber which are capable of stretching at least about 15% with less than 2.5 growth in the direction of the filling yarns.
  • the fabrics useful with the invention are woven fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber.
  • the filling yarns can also be defined as the woof or weft yarns.
  • the warp yarns of the fabric can be of any fiber, examples of warp yarns include yarns composed of one or more of the below fibers.
  • filling yarns comprised of polyester yarns useful with the invention include yarns composed of polyester fiber or polyester fiber with one or more fibers selected from the group consisting of wool, cotton, silk, rayon fiber (a manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which substitutents have replaced not more than 15 of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups), acetate fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is cellulose acetate; Where not less than 92% of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated, the term tri-acetate may be used as a generic description of the fiber), acrylic fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least by weight of acrylonitrile units), modacrylic fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of less than 85 but at least about 35% by weight of acrylonitrile units), olefin fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-
  • polyester fiber is defined as a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a dihydric alcohol and a dicarboxylic acid and copolyesters or modifications of these polyesters and copolyesters.
  • the polyesters and copolyesters are those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the glycols of the series, HO(CH OI-I, in which n is an integer from about 2 to about 10, with one or more dicarboxylic acids are ester-forming derivatives thereof. Examples of useful polyester fibers can be found in US. 3,063,956.
  • polyester fibers are those composed of the poly-condensation product of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol and dimethylterephthalate, and ethylene glycol and other ester-forming derivatives of the terephthalic acid.
  • Construction of the fabric should be a woven construction. Also, the construction of the fabric should permit the yarns to have some degree of movement, i.e. an open type construction as opposed to a tightly woven construction is preferred. A plain weave construction permits optimum freedom of movement of the yarns which will give good stretch characteristics when used with the invention.
  • the fabrics useful with the invention include fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester yarns, for examplethe filling yarns can contain 100% polyester fiber or the filling yarns can be a blend of polyester fiber and one or more of the fibers selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, silk, rayon, acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, fluorocarbon, polyarnide, etc.
  • the stretch characteristics incorporated into the fabrics of this invention is in the direction of the filling yarns.
  • the filling yarn is a blend of fibers, it is preferred that at least 50% of the filling yarn be polyester fiber; the warp yarns of the fabric can be any of the herein enumerated yarns.
  • Swelling agents useful with the invention include any swelling agent which can impart a plasticizing and swelling characteristic to polyester fiber.
  • useful swelling agents include o-phenylphenol, p-phenylphenol, diphenyl, methylphenylcarbinol, monochlorobenzene, enzoic acid, salicylic acid and methyl salicylate.
  • commercially available swelling agents identified by tradenames include Carolid (a self-emulsifiable modified phenol derivative, Carolid ELFC (a nonionic, modified biphenyl derivative, Kayron CP (a self-emulsifiable solvent-modified phenol carrier, and Cindye DAC888 (a self-emulsifying blend of alkyl and aryl esters.
  • o-phenylphenol is a preferred swelling agent useful with the process of this invention. The most significant effect of the swelling agent on the fabrics of this invention occurs as the swelling agent is being vaporized.
  • the novel stretch characteristics of the invention are imparted to the fabric by contacting the fabric with a swelling agent, applying a tension force to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns and then vaporizing the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force.
  • Contacting the fabric with the swelling agent can be accomplished by immersion, spraying, kiss rolling, vapor, exhaust, etc. It is preferred that the method of contacting the fabric should accomplish a sufiicient swelling-agent uptake on the fabric to plasticize the polyester fiber.
  • the period of contact time and the temperature of the swelling agent can be varied to meet the requirements of the particular contact method. Contacting the fabric with a swelling agent at a temperature substantially above room temperature, e.g. 200 R, will facilitate the uptake of the swelling agent on the fabric.
  • the temperature of the swelling agent and the period of contact time is not critical as long as the uptake of the swelling agent on the fabric is suflicient to plasticize the polyester fiber.
  • the polyester fiber is Dacron 54, an E. I. du Pont product, a swelling agent uptake of about 0.25 to about of o-phenylphenol, based on the fabric weight, is sufficient to plasticize the polyester fiber.
  • the tension force applied to the fabric should be applied in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric and should be enough force to straighten the warp yarns and thus to crinkle or ripple the filling yarns or weft yarns.
  • a tension force within the range of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch is sufficient to straighten the warp yarns and to crinkle or ripple the filling yarns; with a plain weave fabric a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 3 lbs. per inch is sufiicient, however with a tighter woven fabric a tension force of from about 2 lbs. per inch up to about 4 lbs. per inch is useful.
  • Vaporizing the swelling agent is accomplished while the fabric is under the tension force and is effected by subjecting the fabric to a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent up to the decomposition temperature or scorching temperature of the fabric.
  • useful temperatures include temperatures within the range of from about 200 F. up to about 450 F., a temperature within the range of from about 320 R up to about 425 F. is preferred. Temperatures effected by a dry heat are also preferred.
  • the fabric be cooled while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
  • This cooling is generally effected instantaneously by merely subjecting the tensioned fabric to a temperature substantially lower than the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized, for example at room temperature. Where the invention is practiced in a continuous process, a cooling period following the vaporization step is recommended. Such a cooling is necessary to set the filling yarns in their crinkle or ripple condition and, thus, give a fabric with a good stretch characteristic.
  • the amount of stretch imparted to the fabric is at least in the direction of the filling yarns.
  • a stretch characteristic of up to about 30% can also be obtained.
  • the fabric will not grow more than 2.5% in the stretch direction at a stretch level of 15% up to about
  • the stretch fabrics of the invention have also the novelty of good dye uptake due to the presence of the swelling agent on the fabric.
  • Stretch fabrics obtained by the process of this invention are particularly useful for fabrication into tailored garments where the stretch requirements are within the limits imparted by this process. Also, such stretch fabrics have the capability to maintain their stretch characteristics even after repeated washings, thus making them ideal for wash and wear garments.
  • Desizing is effected by immersing the fabric in water for 5 minutes at 160 F., then adding to the water 3 cc. per liter of desizing and degumming agents such as Rapidase (defined as a standardized mixture containing amylolytic and proteolytic enzymes, marketed by Wallerstein Company, Division of Baxter Laboratories) and 0.5 cc. per liter of a non-ionic surfactant such as Sterox NJ (defined as alkylaryl polyoxyethylene ether, marketed by Monsanto Chemical Company) and maintaining the water mixture at 150 F.
  • Rapidase defined as a standardized mixture containing amylolytic and proteolytic enzymes, marketed by Wallerstein Company, Division of Baxter Laboratories
  • a non-ionic surfactant such as Sterox NJ (defined as alkylaryl polyoxyethylene ether, marketed by Monsanto Chemical Company)
  • the fabric sample is then scoured by immersing the sample in an aqueous mixture at 200 F. for 4-5 minutes containing 3 grams per liter of sodium hydroxide, 6 grams per liter of mineral spirits, and 0.5 gram per liter of a non-ionic surfactant such as Sterox NJ; then adding 6 grams per liter of sodium bicarbonate to the aqueous mixture and maintaining the mixture at F. for 20 minutes; and thereafter rinsing the sample with water.
  • the fabric sample is dried at 225- 250 F. in a loop dryer.
  • the fabric sample After the fabric sample is desized, scoured, and dried it is cut into two pieces of 28 warp by filling. A 1.5 sleeve is sewn into each warp end, the purpose of which is to support the fabric sample during the tensioning step.
  • the above dimensions are not critical but were chosen on an arbitrary basis.
  • the tensioning step of the process used in each example is effected by inserting into each sleeve a steel rod, positioning one steel rod in a supporting position and attaching steel plates to the other rod to give the desired uniform tension in the warp direction of the fabric sample.
  • the tension is measured in pounds per inch.
  • each sample is cut into three test strips, each strip measuring 2 /2" in the warp direction by the resulting dimension in the original 15" filling dimension, general y 12" to 14" due to the crinkling in the filling yarns.
  • the 2 /2 warp is reduced to 2" by ravelling the filling yarns.
  • the top of the strip is then clamped to the top of a vertical scale and a four pound weight is clamped to the other end of the strip.
  • the strip is then exercised slowly three times between a zero load and the four pound load.
  • the strip is subjected to the four pound load and the stretched dimension of the strip is measured; this measurement in relation to the original dimension is used to calculate the percent stretch.
  • the weight and clamp are then removed and after a second rest period the dimension of the strip is measured; this measurement in relation to the original dimension determines the percent growth. This procedure is repeated on the three strips and the results are averaged to give the percent stretch and the percent growth for each sample.
  • a fabric sample containing warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber (obtained from the polymerization of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid) and cotton fiber having a yarn number of 28/ 2-28/ 2 and a yarn count of 48 x 48 is put under a tension of 0.96 lb./in. and is immersed for 1 minute in a 212 F. aqueous mixture containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is then removed and suspended under the same tension in a oven for 1 minute at 320 F. Thereafter the fabric sample is removed from the oven, permitted to cool momentarily at room temperature, the tension is released, and the sample is analyzed. The sample shows a 15.75 stretch and a 1.7% growth.
  • Example III A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the oven temperature is at 392 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 17.6% stretch and a 2.5% growth.
  • Example IV A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 3.0 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 392 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 18.55% stretch and a 2.5% growth.
  • Example VI A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 1.95 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 284 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows 18.35% stretch and 2.2% growth.
  • EXAMPLE VII A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 0.53 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 356 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 16.10% stretch and a 2.1% growth.
  • EXAMPLE VIII A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 0.95 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 356 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 17.35% stretch and a 2.1% growth.
  • Example IX A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example 1 except the tension is 3.0 lb./ in. and the oven temperature is 392 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows 18.55% stretch and 2.5% growth.
  • EXAMPLE X A 12 foot length fabric sample described in Example I is immersed for 1 minute in a 212 F. aqueous solution containing o-phenylphenol. The sample is then slowly pulled at a warp tension of 1.95 lb./in. through an oven maintained at 400 F. The rate of pull through the oven is at a rate such that the sample is dry as it leaves the oven. Analysis of the sample shows a 14.5% stretch and 0.7% growth.
  • Example XI To show the significance of the carrier and heat-set process over a heatset process, the procedure in Example X is repeated on an identical fabric sample described in Example X except the sample is not immersed in an aqueous solution of o-phenylphenol. Analysis of the sample shows a 9.8% stretch and a 1.2% growth as compared to a 14.5% stretch and a 0.7% growth as indicated in Example X.
  • EXAMPLE XII EXAMPLE XIII A fabric sample composed of warp and filling yarns being polyester fiber (obtained from spinning a polymer of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid) is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The fabric is then removed and a warp tension of 1.95 lb./in. is applied. The tensioned fabric is placed in an oven for 2 minutes at 400 F. The fabric is removed and analyzed.
  • EXAMPLE XIV A woven fabric composed of warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber and 35% rayon fiber (Avril, trade name of American Viscose Corporation) and having a yarn count of 118 x 78 and Weighing 3.7 ounces per square yard is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is removed, a warp tension of 2 lb./in. is applied and the tensioned fabric is placed in an oven for 2 minutes at 380 F. Thereafter, the sample is removed and analyzed. Analysis of the fabric shows a 15.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth and a yarn count of 136 x 70. The original yarn count of 116 X 72 as compared to 136 x 70, the yarn count of the treated fabric, indicates the change in character of the fabric sample due to the treatment.
  • EXAMPLE XV A fabric sample composed of warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber (obtained from spinning a polymer of ethylene glycol and dimethyl terephthalate) and cotton fiber is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is removed, a 2.0 lb./in. warp tension is applied and the tensioned fabric sample is suspended in an oven maintained at 264 F. and kept in the oven for 2 minutes after the aqueous solution starts to vaporize. Thereafter the sample is removed and analyzed. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 17.5% stretch and a 1.8% growth. The sample is then laundered and again analyzed. The laundered fabric sample shows a 17.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
  • Example XVI A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 318 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 19.0% stretch and 1.5% growth. After laundering the sample shows a 19.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
  • Example XVII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 370 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 18.2% stretch and 2.5% growth. After laundering, the fabric sample shows a 19.5% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
  • EXAMPLE XVIII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 378 F. The fabric sample shows a 19.3% stretch and a 2.2% growth, After laundering the fabric sample shows a 20.7% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
  • Example XIX A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven is maintained at 421 F. The fabric sample shows a 17.3% stretch and 1.3% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 19.3% stretch and a 1.4% growth.
  • Example XX A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven is maintained at 266 F. The fabric sample shows a 19.5% stretch and a 1.2% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 18.2% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
  • Example XXII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 426 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 15.3% stretch and a 1.5% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 17.3% stretch and a 1.0% growth.
  • a process for imparting a stretch characteristic to a fabric having filling yarns comprised of at least 50% polyester fiber consisting essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns in the fabric, vaporizing at a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
  • filling yarns are composed of polyester fiber and cotton fiber.
  • filling yarns are composed of polyester fiber and rayon fiber.
  • a fabric composed of filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber having a stretch characteristic in the direction of the filling yarns of the fabric obtained by a process which consists essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns in the fabric and vaporizing by heating at a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
  • a fabric composed of filling yarns comprised of at least about 50% polyester fiber having a stretch characteristic of at least about 15% in the direction of the filling yarns of the fabric obtained by a process which consists essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric, vaporizing a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
  • the fabric of claim 8 wherein the fabric is composed of filling yarns being a blend of about polyester fiber and about 35% cotton fiber.
  • the fabric of claim 8 wherein the fabric is composed of filling yarns being a blend of about 65 polyester fiber and about 35% rayon fiber.

Description

United States Patent 3,514,249 STRETCHABLE WOVEN FABRICS John W. Bullington, Athens, and John H. Gustafson and Julian J. Hirshfeld, Decatur, Ala., assignors to Monsanto Company, St. Louis, M0., a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Filed Jan. 20, 1966, Ser. No. 521,813 lnt. Cl. D06m /12, 9/12, 9/14 U.S. Cl. 8-ll30.1 10 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Stretch characteristics are imparted to fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber by contacting the fabric with a swelling agent, applying a tension force in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric, and vaporizing the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force.
This invention relates to a novel process of imparting a stretch characteristic to fabrics having filling yarns cornprised of polyester fibers. More particularly, the invention relates to a novel method of imparting a stretch characteristic with maximum stretch growth to fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fibers.
Stretch fabrics have the capability to stretch when under tension and then to contract to their original dimension when the tension is released. Such a capability gives to articles made of these fabrics many improved characteristics, e.g. improves the appearance of the articles because the fabric can give with a strain and then assume its original shape when the strain is released; improves the comfort of articles (stretch characteristics permit the body to move with minimum restraint from stretch garments, thereby increasing comfort); improves the fullness or thickness of articles causing a pleasing illustration of lightness or featherness of hand; improves the drape of the articles; improves the crease retention of articles that are pressed with a crease; improves the wash and wear characteristics of fabrics that are utilized in wash and wear garments; and improves the sizing of the article (articles such as garments having a particular size can adapt to individual variations within that size). The degree of stretch which is capable of imparting the above characteristics to the articles is usually at least about with a maximum of about 2.5% growth, i.e. the fabric will not dimensionally grow above 2.5% over its original dimension after repeated stretchings.
Stretch fabrics are particularly useful in the apparel wear. They have received popular use in shirts, slacks, jackets, shorts, skirts, uniforms, dresses, childrens wear, lingerie, suits, sportswear, etc. The fabrics are also useful in domestic and home furnishings, for example in contour sheeting and mattress covers, drapes, upholstery, and numerous other items.
Most of the stretch fabrics on the market are fabrics Woven from stretchable yarns. Such stretch yarns can be made by different, e.g. by twisting (either false or conventional twisting), by stuffer boX or gear crimp methods, by heating the yarn and drawing it over a crimping edge and by entangling the yarn with a stream of gas. After the yarn is processed into a stretachable yarn, the stretch yarns are Woven into a fabric to give a stretchable fabric. Such stretchable fabrics are expensive to make due to the processes of stretching the yarn and then weaving such yarns into a fabric.
Incorporating stretch characteristics into a fabric composed of yarns other than prestretched yarn is relatively new. Such can be accomplished by treating a fabric composed of crimp yarns with a resin and curing the resin While the fabric is in the relaxed state. This treatment 3,514,249 Patented May 26, 1970 ice produces a fabric composed of resilient-like crimp yarns which will stretch and when the stretching force is released will spring back into their original shape. However such a treatment adversely affects the characteristics of the fabric, for example the softness and drape are adversely affected.
A limited degree of stretch can be incorporated into fabrics by warp tensioning a fabric composed of thermoplastic yarns, that is causing the warp yarns to straighten and the filling yarns to pucker, and simultaneously heatsetting the yarns in such a position which results in a fabric having a fill stretch with good recovery. However, such a stretch process requires a large tensioning force and gives a limited amount of stretch to the fabric, usually less than 10%.
It is an object of this invention to provide a process for incorporating a stretch characteristic to fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber.
Another object of the invention is to provide a method of producing stretch fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber which are capable of stretching at least about 15% with a maximum of about 2.5% growth in the direction of the filling yarns.
Still another object of the invention is to provide a fabric having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber which are capable of stretching at least about 15% with less than 2.5 growth in the direction of the filling yarns.
These and other objects of this invention are accomplished by providing a process for imparting a stretch characteristic to a fabric having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber comprising contacting the fabric with a swelling agent, applying a tension force in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric, and vaporizing the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force. Stretch fabrics made by this process exhibit a minimum of 15 filling stretch with less than 2.5 growth even after repeated washings and stretchings.
The fabrics useful with the invention are woven fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber. The filling yarns can also be defined as the woof or weft yarns. The warp yarns of the fabric can be of any fiber, examples of warp yarns include yarns composed of one or more of the below fibers. Examples of filling yarns comprised of polyester yarns useful with the invention include yarns composed of polyester fiber or polyester fiber with one or more fibers selected from the group consisting of wool, cotton, silk, rayon fiber (a manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which substitutents have replaced not more than 15 of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups), acetate fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is cellulose acetate; Where not less than 92% of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated, the term tri-acetate may be used as a generic description of the fiber), acrylic fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least by weight of acrylonitrile units), modacrylic fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of less than 85 but at least about 35% by weight of acrylonitrile units), olefin fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of ethylene, propylene or other olefin units), fluorocarbon fiber (a fiber formed of long-chain carbon molecules wherein the available bonds are saturated with fluorine), polyamide fiber (a manufactured fiber in which the fiberforming substance is any long-chain synthetic polyamide having recurring amide groups (-CONH-) as an integral part of the polymer chain), etc. A particularly useful fabric is a fabric containing filling yarns composed 9 u of at least 50% polyester fiber and the remainder cotton fiber.
The term polyester fiber, as used herein, is defined as a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a dihydric alcohol and a dicarboxylic acid and copolyesters or modifications of these polyesters and copolyesters. The polyesters and copolyesters are those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the glycols of the series, HO(CH OI-I, in which n is an integer from about 2 to about 10, with one or more dicarboxylic acids are ester-forming derivatives thereof. Examples of useful polyester fibers can be found in US. 3,063,956. Particularly useful polyester fibers are those composed of the poly-condensation product of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol and dimethylterephthalate, and ethylene glycol and other ester-forming derivatives of the terephthalic acid.
Construction of the fabric should be a woven construction. Also, the construction of the fabric should permit the yarns to have some degree of movement, i.e. an open type construction as opposed to a tightly woven construction is preferred. A plain weave construction permits optimum freedom of movement of the yarns which will give good stretch characteristics when used with the invention.
As mentioned previously, the fabrics useful with the invention include fabrics having filling yarns comprised of polyester yarns, for examplethe filling yarns can contain 100% polyester fiber or the filling yarns can be a blend of polyester fiber and one or more of the fibers selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, silk, rayon, acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, fluorocarbon, polyarnide, etc. The stretch characteristics incorporated into the fabrics of this invention is in the direction of the filling yarns. Where the filling yarn is a blend of fibers, it is preferred that at least 50% of the filling yarn be polyester fiber; the warp yarns of the fabric can be any of the herein enumerated yarns.
Swelling agents useful with the invention include any swelling agent which can impart a plasticizing and swelling characteristic to polyester fiber. Examples of useful swelling agents include o-phenylphenol, p-phenylphenol, diphenyl, methylphenylcarbinol, monochlorobenzene, enzoic acid, salicylic acid and methyl salicylate. Examples of commercially available swelling agents identified by tradenames include Carolid (a self-emulsifiable modified phenol derivative, Carolid ELFC (a nonionic, modified biphenyl derivative, Kayron CP (a self-emulsifiable solvent-modified phenol carrier, and Cindye DAC888 (a self-emulsifying blend of alkyl and aryl esters. From a cost basis, o-phenylphenol is a preferred swelling agent useful with the process of this invention. The most significant effect of the swelling agent on the fabrics of this invention occurs as the swelling agent is being vaporized.
The novel stretch characteristics of the invention are imparted to the fabric by contacting the fabric with a swelling agent, applying a tension force to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns and then vaporizing the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force. Contacting the fabric with the swelling agent can be accomplished by immersion, spraying, kiss rolling, vapor, exhaust, etc. It is preferred that the method of contacting the fabric should accomplish a sufiicient swelling-agent uptake on the fabric to plasticize the polyester fiber. The period of contact time and the temperature of the swelling agent can be varied to meet the requirements of the particular contact method. Contacting the fabric with a swelling agent at a temperature substantially above room temperature, e.g. 200 R, will facilitate the uptake of the swelling agent on the fabric. However, the temperature of the swelling agent and the period of contact time is not critical as long as the uptake of the swelling agent on the fabric is suflicient to plasticize the polyester fiber. For example, where the polyester fiber is Dacron 54, an E. I. du Pont product, a swelling agent uptake of about 0.25 to about of o-phenylphenol, based on the fabric weight, is sufficient to plasticize the polyester fiber.
The tension force applied to the fabric should be applied in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric and should be enough force to straighten the warp yarns and thus to crinkle or ripple the filling yarns or weft yarns. Generally a tension force within the range of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch is sufficient to straighten the warp yarns and to crinkle or ripple the filling yarns; with a plain weave fabric a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 3 lbs. per inch is sufiicient, however with a tighter woven fabric a tension force of from about 2 lbs. per inch up to about 4 lbs. per inch is useful. Vaporizing the swelling agent is accomplished while the fabric is under the tension force and is effected by subjecting the fabric to a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent up to the decomposition temperature or scorching temperature of the fabric. Examples of useful temperatures include temperatures within the range of from about 200 F. up to about 450 F., a temperature within the range of from about 320 R up to about 425 F. is preferred. Temperatures effected by a dry heat are also preferred. After the swelling agent is vaporized, it is preferred that the fabric be cooled while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized. This cooling is generally effected instantaneously by merely subjecting the tensioned fabric to a temperature substantially lower than the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized, for example at room temperature. Where the invention is practiced in a continuous process, a cooling period following the vaporization step is recommended. Such a cooling is necessary to set the filling yarns in their crinkle or ripple condition and, thus, give a fabric with a good stretch characteristic.
With the process of this invention, the amount of stretch imparted to the fabric is at least in the direction of the filling yarns. However, a stretch characteristic of up to about 30% can also be obtained. After repeated stretchings, the fabric will not grow more than 2.5% in the stretch direction at a stretch level of 15% up to about The stretch fabrics of the invention have also the novelty of good dye uptake due to the presence of the swelling agent on the fabric. Stretch fabrics obtained by the process of this invention are particularly useful for fabrication into tailored garments where the stretch requirements are within the limits imparted by this process. Also, such stretch fabrics have the capability to maintain their stretch characteristics even after repeated washings, thus making them ideal for wash and wear garments.
Working examples are presented to illustrate the invention. The fabric samples used in the following examples are desized, scoured and dried. Desizing is effected by immersing the fabric in water for 5 minutes at 160 F., then adding to the water 3 cc. per liter of desizing and degumming agents such as Rapidase (defined as a standardized mixture containing amylolytic and proteolytic enzymes, marketed by Wallerstein Company, Division of Baxter Laboratories) and 0.5 cc. per liter of a non-ionic surfactant such as Sterox NJ (defined as alkylaryl polyoxyethylene ether, marketed by Monsanto Chemical Company) and maintaining the water mixture at 150 F. for minutes, and thereafter rinsing the fabric sample in water for 5 minutes at 180 F. The fabric sample is then scoured by immersing the sample in an aqueous mixture at 200 F. for 4-5 minutes containing 3 grams per liter of sodium hydroxide, 6 grams per liter of mineral spirits, and 0.5 gram per liter of a non-ionic surfactant such as Sterox NJ; then adding 6 grams per liter of sodium bicarbonate to the aqueous mixture and maintaining the mixture at F. for 20 minutes; and thereafter rinsing the sample with water. The fabric sample is dried at 225- 250 F. in a loop dryer. Other chemicals of common knowledge to the art which are equivalent to the above chemicals can be substituted for those chemica s enumerated above, e.g. other nonionic surfactants can be substituted for Sterox NJ and other desizing and degumming agents can be substituted for Rapidase, etc.
After the fabric sample is desized, scoured, and dried it is cut into two pieces of 28 warp by filling. A 1.5 sleeve is sewn into each warp end, the purpose of which is to support the fabric sample during the tensioning step. The above dimensions are not critical but were chosen on an arbitrary basis.
The tensioning step of the process used in each example is effected by inserting into each sleeve a steel rod, positioning one steel rod in a supporting position and attaching steel plates to the other rod to give the desired uniform tension in the warp direction of the fabric sample. The tension is measured in pounds per inch.
After the fabric samples are treated as described in the following examples, they are subjected to a stretch test to determine their stretch characteristics. Each sample is cut into three test strips, each strip measuring 2 /2" in the warp direction by the resulting dimension in the original 15" filling dimension, general y 12" to 14" due to the crinkling in the filling yarns. The 2 /2 warp is reduced to 2" by ravelling the filling yarns. The top of the strip is then clamped to the top of a vertical scale and a four pound weight is clamped to the other end of the strip. The strip is then exercised slowly three times between a zero load and the four pound load. Thereafter the strip is subjected to the four pound load and the stretched dimension of the strip is measured; this measurement in relation to the original dimension is used to calculate the percent stretch. The weight and clamp are then removed and after a second rest period the dimension of the strip is measured; this measurement in relation to the original dimension determines the percent growth. This procedure is repeated on the three strips and the results are averaged to give the percent stretch and the percent growth for each sample.
The following examples are presented to illustrate the invention and are not to be construed as limitations thereof. Percents used are based on weight unless otherwise illustrated and tension of the fabric is always in the warp direction.
EXAMPLE I A fabric sample containing warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber (obtained from the polymerization of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid) and cotton fiber having a yarn number of 28/ 2-28/ 2 and a yarn count of 48 x 48 is put under a tension of 0.96 lb./in. and is immersed for 1 minute in a 212 F. aqueous mixture containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is then removed and suspended under the same tension in a oven for 1 minute at 320 F. Thereafter the fabric sample is removed from the oven, permitted to cool momentarily at room temperature, the tension is released, and the sample is analyzed. The sample shows a 15.75 stretch and a 1.7% growth.
EXAMPLE II A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as described in Example I. Analysis of the fabric shows a 18.25% stretch and a 2.1% growth.
EXAMPLE III A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the oven temperature is at 392 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 17.6% stretch and a 2.5% growth.
EXAMPLE IV A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 3.0 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 392 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 18.55% stretch and a 2.5% growth.
6 EXAMPLE v A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 0.53 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 284 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 15.75% stretch and a 1.7% growth.
EXAMPLE VI A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 1.95 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 284 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows 18.35% stretch and 2.2% growth.
EXAMPLE VII A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 0.53 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 356 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 16.10% stretch and a 2.1% growth.
EXAMPLE VIII A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example I except the tension is 0.95 lb./in. and the oven temperature is 356 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 17.35% stretch and a 2.1% growth.
EXAMPLE IX A fabric sample described in Example I is treated as in Example 1 except the tension is 3.0 lb./ in. and the oven temperature is 392 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows 18.55% stretch and 2.5% growth.
EXAMPLE X A 12 foot length fabric sample described in Example I is immersed for 1 minute in a 212 F. aqueous solution containing o-phenylphenol. The sample is then slowly pulled at a warp tension of 1.95 lb./in. through an oven maintained at 400 F. The rate of pull through the oven is at a rate such that the sample is dry as it leaves the oven. Analysis of the sample shows a 14.5% stretch and 0.7% growth.
EXAMPLE XI To show the significance of the carrier and heat-set process over a heatset process, the procedure in Example X is repeated on an identical fabric sample described in Example X except the sample is not immersed in an aqueous solution of o-phenylphenol. Analysis of the sample shows a 9.8% stretch and a 1.2% growth as compared to a 14.5% stretch and a 0.7% growth as indicated in Example X.
EXAMPLE XII EXAMPLE XIII A fabric sample composed of warp and filling yarns being polyester fiber (obtained from spinning a polymer of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid) is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The fabric is then removed and a warp tension of 1.95 lb./in. is applied. The tensioned fabric is placed in an oven for 2 minutes at 400 F. The fabric is removed and analyzed.
Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 15.5% stretch and a 1.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XIV A woven fabric composed of warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber and 35% rayon fiber (Avril, trade name of American Viscose Corporation) and having a yarn count of 118 x 78 and Weighing 3.7 ounces per square yard is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is removed, a warp tension of 2 lb./in. is applied and the tensioned fabric is placed in an oven for 2 minutes at 380 F. Thereafter, the sample is removed and analyzed. Analysis of the fabric shows a 15.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth and a yarn count of 136 x 70. The original yarn count of 116 X 72 as compared to 136 x 70, the yarn count of the treated fabric, indicates the change in character of the fabric sample due to the treatment.
EXAMPLE XV A fabric sample composed of warp and filling yarns of 65% polyester fiber (obtained from spinning a polymer of ethylene glycol and dimethyl terephthalate) and cotton fiber is immersed for 1 minute in a 205 F. aqueous solution containing 10 grams per liter of o-phenylphenol. The sample is removed, a 2.0 lb./in. warp tension is applied and the tensioned fabric sample is suspended in an oven maintained at 264 F. and kept in the oven for 2 minutes after the aqueous solution starts to vaporize. Thereafter the sample is removed and analyzed. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 17.5% stretch and a 1.8% growth. The sample is then laundered and again analyzed. The laundered fabric sample shows a 17.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XVI A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 318 F. Analysis of the sample shows a 19.0% stretch and 1.5% growth. After laundering the sample shows a 19.0% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XVII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 370 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 18.2% stretch and 2.5% growth. After laundering, the fabric sample shows a 19.5% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XVIII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 378 F. The fabric sample shows a 19.3% stretch and a 2.2% growth, After laundering the fabric sample shows a 20.7% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XIX A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as described in Example XV except the oven is maintained at 421 F. The fabric sample shows a 17.3% stretch and 1.3% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 19.3% stretch and a 1.4% growth.
EXAMPLE XX A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven is maintained at 266 F. The fabric sample shows a 19.5% stretch and a 1.2% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 18.2% stretch and a 2.0% growth.
EXAMPLE XXI A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven is maintained at 322 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 20.3% stretch and a 1.7% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 20.5% stretch and a 2.5 growth.
EXAMPLE XXII A fabric sample described in Example XV is treated as in Example XV except the oven temperature is maintained at 426 F. Analysis of the fabric sample shows a 15.3% stretch and a 1.5% growth. After laundering the fabric sample shows a 17.3% stretch and a 1.0% growth.
The above examples are presented to illustrate the invention and are not to be considered as a limitation thereof.
What is claimed is:
1. A process for imparting a stretch characteristic to a fabric having filling yarns comprised of at least 50% polyester fiber, consisting essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns in the fabric, vaporizing at a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
2. The process of claim 1 wherein the filling yarns are composed of polyester fiber and cotton fiber.
3. The process of claim 1 wherein the filling yarns are composed of polyester fiber and wool fiber.
4. The process of claim 1 wherein the filling yarns are composed of polyester fiber and rayon fiber.
5. The process of claim 1 wherein the swelling agent is o-phenylphenol.
6. The process of claim 1 wherein the swelling agent is vaporized at a temperature within the range of from about 300 F. to about 425 F.
7. A fabric composed of filling yarns comprised of polyester fiber having a stretch characteristic in the direction of the filling yarns of the fabric obtained by a process which consists essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns in the fabric and vaporizing by heating at a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
8. A fabric composed of filling yarns comprised of at least about 50% polyester fiber having a stretch characteristic of at least about 15% in the direction of the filling yarns of the fabric obtained by a process which consists essentially of contacting the fabric with a swelling agent for polyester fibers, thereby plasticizing the polyester fibers, then applying a tension force of from about 0.5 lb. per inch to about 6.0 lbs. per inch to the fabric in the direction of the warp yarns of the fabric, vaporizing a temperature within the range of from about the vaporization temperature of the swelling agent to about 450 F. the swelling agent while the fabric is under the tension force, and cooling the fabric while under the tension force to a temperature of at least about 25 F. below the temperature at which the swelling agent is vaporized.
9. The fabric of claim 8 wherein the fabric is composed of filling yarns being a blend of about polyester fiber and about 35% cotton fiber.
9 10. The fabric of claim 8 wherein the fabric is composed of filling yarns being a blend of about 65 polyester fiber and about 35% rayon fiber.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,404,837 7/ 1946 Goldthwait. 2,897,042 7/1959 Heiks 8-l30.1 3,290,752 12/ 1966 Ormand 8130.l X
FOREIGN PATENTS 691,559 7/l964 Canada.
10 OTHER REFERENCES American Dyestuff Reporter, Jan. 20, 1964, p. 47(62), heat setting of polyester fibers.
Canadian Textile Journal, vol. 81, No. 6, Mar. 13, 1964,
5 pp. 41-50, Process and Properties of Cotton Stretch Fabrics.
LEON D. ROSDOL, Primary Examiner 0 M. HALPERN, Assistant Examiner US. Cl. X.R. 8-132, 1145
US521813A 1966-01-20 1966-01-20 Stretchable woven fabrics Expired - Lifetime US3514249A (en)

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US2404837A (en) * 1943-11-05 1946-07-30 Nasa Method of making cotton fabrics with differential elastic properties
US2897042A (en) * 1955-06-30 1959-07-28 Du Pont Method for increasing pill resistance and density of blended staple polyethylene terephthalate and cellulosic fabrics by applying specific chemical shrinking agents for the polyethylene terephthalate
CA691559A (en) * 1964-07-28 G. Tewksbury Charles Method of finishing papermakers' felt
US3290752A (en) * 1963-03-26 1966-12-13 Thomaston Cotton Mills Woven cotton-polyester blend fabrics having recoverable stretch characteristics

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CA691559A (en) * 1964-07-28 G. Tewksbury Charles Method of finishing papermakers' felt
US2404837A (en) * 1943-11-05 1946-07-30 Nasa Method of making cotton fabrics with differential elastic properties
US2897042A (en) * 1955-06-30 1959-07-28 Du Pont Method for increasing pill resistance and density of blended staple polyethylene terephthalate and cellulosic fabrics by applying specific chemical shrinking agents for the polyethylene terephthalate
US3290752A (en) * 1963-03-26 1966-12-13 Thomaston Cotton Mills Woven cotton-polyester blend fabrics having recoverable stretch characteristics

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3932124A (en) * 1974-01-24 1976-01-13 The United States Of America As Represented By The Secretary Of Agriculture Process for setting textiles
US3932125A (en) * 1974-01-24 1976-01-13 The United States Of America As Represented By The Secretary Of Agriculture Preparation of stretchable wool textiles

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