US3394692A - Cutting and assembly of precious stones - Google Patents

Cutting and assembly of precious stones Download PDF

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Publication number
US3394692A
US3394692A US418756A US41875664A US3394692A US 3394692 A US3394692 A US 3394692A US 418756 A US418756 A US 418756A US 41875664 A US41875664 A US 41875664A US 3394692 A US3394692 A US 3394692A
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United States
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base
stones
apex
stone
cutting
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US418756A
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Sirakian Jean
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C SIRAKIAN AND FILS
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C SIRAKIAN AND FILS
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/002—Gems made of several cut pieces

Definitions

  • ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of cutting and assembling two stones into a marquise or navette wherein the base bezels and base pavilions of the stones are more inclined with respect to the horizontal than conventional cuts including performing the primary faceting,.including the cutting of a base bezel and base pavilion on each stone, performing the finishing faceting without additional faceting of the base bezels and base pavilions and assembling the stones with the base bezels and base pavilions of the two stones in confronting relation. Optimal light reflection is obtained.
  • Precious stones such as diamonds have great commercial and aesthetic value depending on their color, clarity, cut and size among other factors.
  • the natural beauty and value of the stone are enhanced by the cutting and setting of the stone.
  • One technique for enhancing the value of precious stones is the cutting and joining together of two smaller stones to give the appearance of one larger stone. This technique is important because two small stones generally cost less than one large one and there is less loss in the cutting process. This technique has been attempted by the inventor for producing a so-called Marquise or Navette stone.
  • prior attempts have not been entirely successful in that the assembled stones display a dark band or zone in the region of the juncture of the two stones which impairs their brilliance. Moreover, the joint remains visible and dust particles become wedged between the stones.
  • marquise-halves or escutcheons are generally elliptical stones and the same basic cutting methods have been applied to them as has been used for the brilliant cutting of generally circular stones. This resulted in dark zones in the assembled stones because optimal light reflection could not be obtained.
  • the present invention employs a new method of cutting the two halves of the marquise to improve light reflec tion, thereby enhancing the brilliance of the stone and overcoming the aforementioned difiiculties.
  • the number and inclination of facets differ substantially from the conventionally cut marquise-half with the result that the joined stones do not'display a dark zone and dust or powder marks from the'stone cuttings are less in evidence'.
  • the principal features of the method are that the base bezels and base pavilions of the stones are not faceted and they are more inclined with respect to the horizontal than the conventional cuts, and the base bezel has a smaller width than normal.
  • the angles of the facets -United States Patent in relation to each other produce optimal light reflection.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a new method for the cutting of precious stones.
  • Another object is to provide a new method for cutting the two halves of a marquise stone.
  • Another object is to provide an improved method of preparing two stones for assembly into a marquise or navette.
  • FIG. 1 is a top plan view of the two assembled halves of a marquise stone
  • FIlgIGl. 2 is an exploded side elevation of the stones of FIG. 3 is a bottom view of FIG. 1;
  • FIG. 4 is similar to FIG. 2 showing a variation of the lnvention
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 are schematics of side and end views, respectively, of one of the stones of FIG. 1 showing the the inclinations of the various facets;
  • FIGS. 7 and 8 are schematics of the table and cullett sides, respectively, of a marquise-half illustrating the primary faceting according to the invention
  • FIGS. 9, 10 and 11 are top, side and bottom views, respectively, of a variation of the invention.
  • FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 a first embodiment of the invention is shown wherein the two halves of the assembled stones are identical.
  • the assembled marquise is indicated generally as 10 and comprises two like halves 11 which are known as marquise halves or escutcheons.
  • Each stone has a base bezel 12 along which the stones are joined to form a juncture 13.
  • This juncture is shown here principally for illustration since the actual line would barely be visible to the naked eye, one of the advantages of the present invention.
  • FIGS. 5, 6, 7 and 8 the cutting of the stone will be described.
  • the cutting and faceting will be described first on the top or table side of the stone, then on the bottom or cullett side.
  • the primary faceting of the table side is shown in FIG. 7 and comprises seven primary facets, the base bezel 12, the table 14, two lateral bezels 15 adjacent the base bezel, apex bezel 16, and two lateral bezels 17 adjacent the apex bezel.
  • the inclination of the base bezel 12 is 40 as shown in FIG. 5, and that of the other bezels is 38 as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. In conventional cuts, the slope of the bezels is 33 or 34.
  • the width of base bezel 12 is also narrower than the width of the other five bezels.
  • the lateral bezels 15 are smaller than those of a conventional cut and the lateral bezels 17 are longer than their corresponding conventional bezels.
  • the finishing faceting is more or less conventional, however the base bezel 12 receives no other faceting. In the finishing, corner facets 1 8, and star facets 19 are cut to complete the table side of the stone as shown in FIG. 1, resulting in twenty-three facets on the table side.
  • the primary faceting on the bottom or cullett side is shown in FIGS. 5, 6 and 8 and comprises cutting six facets, the base pavilion 20, lateral pavilion 21 adjacent the base pavilion, the apex pavilion 22 and lateral pavilions 23 adjacent the apex pavilion.
  • the base pavilion is inclined at an angle of 76, while the lateral pavilions are inclined at an angle of 41.
  • the slope of the apex pavilion varies in accordance with the size of the stone.
  • the apex pavilion does not join the cullett apex 24 but is spaced therefrom as indicated at 25 in FIGS. 5 and 8.
  • the cullett apex 24 is positioned at about nine-tenths (W the length of the stone as compared with about six-tenths 7 for a conventional cut.
  • the faceting on the cullett side is completed by cutting the corner facets 26 (FIG. 3) on the lateral and apex pavilions, the base pavilion receiving no faceting.
  • the girdle 27 is left smooth or rounded in the primary faceting but may be finished with a plurality of facets (not shown).
  • the cullett side thus has fifteen or sixteen facets (the facet on the cullett apex being optional).
  • the two identical stones are then assembled as shown in FIG. 2 by mounting the stones in a manner well known in the art so that the two stones are contiguous andthe base bezels and base pavilions of the two stones are in confronting relation.
  • FIG. 4 a variation of the invention is shown comprising two non-identical stones.
  • the stones When assembled, the stones present the same plan view (FIG. 1) as the first embodiment already described.
  • the two stones of FIG. 4 are faceted in essentially the same manner as previously described with certain exceptions as will now be described.
  • the left-hand stone of FIG. 4 has a base pavilion a which extends above the girdle 27 and consequently the base bezel 12a is of lesser height than the base bezel 12 of the first embodiment.
  • the base pavilion 20a is extended so that the base bezel 12a is one-half the height it would be if it extended to the girdle as in the first method.
  • the 4 has a base bezel 12b which extends to the lower edge of the girdle 27.
  • the apex pavilions 22a and 22b are extended up to the top edge of the girdle so that the two stones have sharp edges at these points.
  • the slope of the base pavilions 20a and 2011 may vary between 50 and 60 as compared with 76 in the first embodiment described, and the base pavilions join their corresponding cullett apex at 24.
  • the cullett apex 24 is located at about six-tenths 7 the length of the stone as measured along the longitudinal axis from the apex pavilion to the base pavilion.
  • each stone is the same as in the first embodiment, i.e., twenty-three on the table side and fifteen or sixteen on the cullett side.
  • the stones are assembled as shown in FIG. 4 with the upper part of base pavilion 20a abutting the lower part of base bezel 12b.
  • each stone is cut in essentially the same manner as the first embodiment but with a greater number of facets and with other variations now described.
  • the stones in this embodiment are similar to stones which are known technically as shields.
  • the primary faceting is exactly the same as for the first embodiment except that the apex pavilion joins the cullett apex at 24 (FIG. 11).
  • the final faceting is done in a conventional manner to provide thirty-one facets on the table side and twenty-one or twenty-two facets on the cullett side, as compared with a conventional shield which has thirty-one facets on the table side and twenty-two or twenty-three facets on the cullett side.
  • the marquise-half of this embodiment also differs from the conventional shield in that it has only one smooth face for the base bezel and one smooth face for the base pavilion.
  • the two marquise-halves are joined in the same manner as shown in FIGS. 1, 2 and 3.
  • the assembled stones When out and assembled according to my invention, the assembled stones exhibit improved light reflecting qualities which enhance their brilliance by eliminating the dark zone of previous assemblies cut in a conventional manner and by rendering the juncture between the two stones practically invisible to the naked eye.
  • the total effect is to give the two stones the appearance of a monolithic marquise or navette.
  • each stone has a base pavilion with a slope of 50 to 60
  • the apex pavilion extends to the cullett apex and extends in the direction of the apex bezel to the top edge of the girdle to form a sharp edge with the apex bezel
  • the base pavilion of one of the stones extends upwardly beyond the girdle
  • the base bezel of the other stone extends downwardly to the lower edge of the girdle such that when the two stones are assembled the upper part of the base pavilion of the one stone abuts the lower part of the base bezel of the other stone.
  • each finished stone exclusive 5 of the girdle and cullett apex has a total of twenty-three facets on the table side and fifteen facets on the cullett side.

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  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
US418756A 1964-01-31 1964-12-16 Cutting and assembly of precious stones Expired - Lifetime US3394692A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR962230A FR1391988A (fr) 1964-01-31 1964-01-31 Perfectionnements à l'assemblage de deux pierres pour leur donner la forme dite <marquise> ou

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US3394692A true US3394692A (en) 1968-07-30

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BE (1) BE644327A (pt)
FR (1) FR1391988A (pt)
GB (1) GB1005060A (pt)

Cited By (29)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3585764A (en) * 1969-06-10 1971-06-22 James Huisman Diamond cutting method
US4118950A (en) * 1976-05-27 1978-10-10 Henry Grossbard Brilliantized step cut stone with faceted crown
US5072549A (en) * 1986-09-22 1991-12-17 Harold Johnston Method of cutting gemstones and product
US5533364A (en) * 1993-12-08 1996-07-09 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facing marquis halves to form a marquis stone
USD405024S (en) * 1996-06-14 1999-02-02 Avi Katz Gemstone
USD415062S (en) * 1998-08-13 1999-10-12 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
US6007907A (en) * 1997-05-30 1999-12-28 Wolf; Steven J. Composite jewelry stone
USD419480S (en) * 1998-12-18 2000-01-25 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
USD421930S (en) * 1999-05-24 2000-03-28 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
US6065307A (en) * 1999-06-14 2000-05-23 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Corner cut precious square stones
US6145341A (en) * 1999-04-28 2000-11-14 Leong; Henry Uniquely mating jewelry items made from gems
WO2002037998A1 (en) * 2000-11-10 2002-05-16 Henry Leong Uniquely mating jewelry items made from gems
US6389846B1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2002-05-21 Am-Gold Products, Inc. Prong setting for multiple gemstones
US6434805B2 (en) * 1999-03-12 2002-08-20 L.I.D. Ltd. Method of making a heart-shaped diamond
US6519972B1 (en) * 2000-03-27 2003-02-18 Am-Gold Products, Inc. Multi-stone oval gemstone assembly
US20030145623A1 (en) * 2002-02-07 2003-08-07 Hadar Yaskil Combined gemstone
US6615611B1 (en) 2000-09-26 2003-09-09 Michael Schachter High yield diamond
WO2006083878A2 (en) * 2005-02-02 2006-08-10 Dmitry Marmershteyn A method and system of marketing diamonds
US20110000259A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2011-01-06 Strnad Iii Leonard J Gemstone and method for cutting the same
US9226554B2 (en) 2014-05-12 2016-01-05 Yoshihiko Kodama Circular cut diamond
WO2018015968A1 (en) * 2016-07-18 2018-01-25 Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited Process of cutting and assembling diamonds to form composite diamond having enhanced brilliance and shade
USD828215S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2018-09-11 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843878S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843877S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843876S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843879S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD948374S1 (en) * 2019-07-16 2022-04-12 Venus by Maria Tash, Inc. Earring
USD1013549S1 (en) * 2020-05-14 2024-02-06 Amanda Shawhan Artificial jewel for skin body art
US11918090B2 (en) * 2020-01-15 2024-03-05 Albert Gad Ltd. Gemstone and methods of cutting the same

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5657646A (en) * 1994-10-04 1997-08-19 Rosenberg; Steven F. Jewel having multiple culets

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1854958A (en) * 1932-02-19 1932-04-19 Ernest J Santosuosso Gem mounting
US2207869A (en) * 1939-06-02 1940-07-16 Monnier Andre Henri Georges Precious stones and jewelry
FR1120076A (fr) * 1954-12-11 1956-06-29 Perfectionnement apporté au sertissage des pierres précieuses notamment des brillants, réalisé à l'aide d'une nouvelle taille de ces pierres
US2907187A (en) * 1956-06-06 1959-10-06 Karp Jewel mounting

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1854958A (en) * 1932-02-19 1932-04-19 Ernest J Santosuosso Gem mounting
US2207869A (en) * 1939-06-02 1940-07-16 Monnier Andre Henri Georges Precious stones and jewelry
FR1120076A (fr) * 1954-12-11 1956-06-29 Perfectionnement apporté au sertissage des pierres précieuses notamment des brillants, réalisé à l'aide d'une nouvelle taille de ces pierres
US2907187A (en) * 1956-06-06 1959-10-06 Karp Jewel mounting

Cited By (40)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3585764A (en) * 1969-06-10 1971-06-22 James Huisman Diamond cutting method
US4118950A (en) * 1976-05-27 1978-10-10 Henry Grossbard Brilliantized step cut stone with faceted crown
US5072549A (en) * 1986-09-22 1991-12-17 Harold Johnston Method of cutting gemstones and product
US5533364A (en) * 1993-12-08 1996-07-09 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facing marquis halves to form a marquis stone
USD405024S (en) * 1996-06-14 1999-02-02 Avi Katz Gemstone
US6007907A (en) * 1997-05-30 1999-12-28 Wolf; Steven J. Composite jewelry stone
US6171666B1 (en) * 1997-05-30 2001-01-09 Steven J. Wolf Composite jewelry stone
USD415062S (en) * 1998-08-13 1999-10-12 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
USD419480S (en) * 1998-12-18 2000-01-25 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
US6434805B2 (en) * 1999-03-12 2002-08-20 L.I.D. Ltd. Method of making a heart-shaped diamond
US6145341A (en) * 1999-04-28 2000-11-14 Leong; Henry Uniquely mating jewelry items made from gems
USD421930S (en) * 1999-05-24 2000-03-28 Wolf Steven J Jewelry arrangement
US6065307A (en) * 1999-06-14 2000-05-23 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Corner cut precious square stones
US6389846B1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2002-05-21 Am-Gold Products, Inc. Prong setting for multiple gemstones
US6519972B1 (en) * 2000-03-27 2003-02-18 Am-Gold Products, Inc. Multi-stone oval gemstone assembly
US20030188551A1 (en) * 2000-09-26 2003-10-09 Michael Schachter High yield diamond
US6615611B1 (en) 2000-09-26 2003-09-09 Michael Schachter High yield diamond
US20030181147A1 (en) * 2000-09-26 2003-09-25 Michael Schachter Method for cutting natural and/or man-made diamonds
US6892720B2 (en) 2000-09-26 2005-05-17 Michael Schachter Method for cutting natural and/or man-made diamonds
WO2002037998A1 (en) * 2000-11-10 2002-05-16 Henry Leong Uniquely mating jewelry items made from gems
US20030145623A1 (en) * 2002-02-07 2003-08-07 Hadar Yaskil Combined gemstone
WO2003065837A1 (en) * 2002-02-07 2003-08-14 Hadar Yaskil Combined gemstone
WO2006083878A2 (en) * 2005-02-02 2006-08-10 Dmitry Marmershteyn A method and system of marketing diamonds
WO2006083878A3 (en) * 2005-02-02 2007-11-22 Dmitry Marmershteyn A method and system of marketing diamonds
US10362843B2 (en) 2007-12-14 2019-07-30 II Leonard J. Strnad Gemstone and method for cutting the same
US20110000259A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2011-01-06 Strnad Iii Leonard J Gemstone and method for cutting the same
US9226554B2 (en) 2014-05-12 2016-01-05 Yoshihiko Kodama Circular cut diamond
GB2566863A (en) * 2016-07-18 2019-03-27 Sksm Diamonds Impex Ltd Process of cutting and assembling diamonds to form composite diamond having enhanced brilliance and shade
WO2018015968A1 (en) * 2016-07-18 2018-01-25 Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited Process of cutting and assembling diamonds to form composite diamond having enhanced brilliance and shade
CN108348051A (zh) * 2016-07-18 2018-07-31 Sksm伊姆派克斯有限公司 切割和组装金刚石以形成具有增强的亮度和色度的复合金刚石的工艺
US10470534B2 (en) * 2016-07-18 2019-11-12 Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited Process of cutting and assembling diamonds to form composite diamond having enhanced brilliance and shade
USD828215S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2018-09-11 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843879S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843876S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843877S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD843878S1 (en) * 2017-07-12 2019-03-26 World Trend Enterprises Limited Diamond
USD948374S1 (en) * 2019-07-16 2022-04-12 Venus by Maria Tash, Inc. Earring
USD1002425S1 (en) 2019-07-16 2023-10-24 Venus by Maria Tash, Inc. Earring
US11918090B2 (en) * 2020-01-15 2024-03-05 Albert Gad Ltd. Gemstone and methods of cutting the same
USD1013549S1 (en) * 2020-05-14 2024-02-06 Amanda Shawhan Artificial jewel for skin body art

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Publication number Publication date
BE644327A (pt) 1964-06-15
FR1391988A (fr) 1965-03-12
GB1005060A (en) 1965-09-22

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