US3372404A - Durable press garments and method for altering seams - Google Patents

Durable press garments and method for altering seams Download PDF

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US3372404A
US3372404A US450396A US45039665A US3372404A US 3372404 A US3372404 A US 3372404A US 450396 A US450396 A US 450396A US 45039665 A US45039665 A US 45039665A US 3372404 A US3372404 A US 3372404A
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seam
fabric
garment
crease
agent
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Nelson F Getchell
Iii William R Thomas
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COTTON PRODUCERS INST
COTTON PRODUCERS INSTITUTE
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COTTON PRODUCERS INST
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24Hems; Seams

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  • This invention relates to garments formed of cellulosecontaining material and treated with chemical agents, which agents, when cured thereon, impart to said garments Wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, and wash/wear properties, and, more particularly, the invention relates to an improved method whereby such garments having such chemical agents cured thereon can be readily altered.
  • the fabrics are first treated with a creaseproofing agent and the agent is cured thereon while the fabric is in the flat state to impart the desired wrinkle-resisting, wash/Wear properties to the fabric.
  • the fabric when manufactured into a garment, because it was cured in the flat state, naturally resists the formation of durable pleats and/or creases therein.
  • an untreated fabric is first manufactured into a garment and the garment is subsequently treated with the creaseproofing agent which is cured thereon after the desired pleat-s and/or creases are first formed in the garment.
  • Such a process again places the burden on the garment manufacturers to install the necessary equipment for treating the garment and many are reluctant to do so. Again, it is difficult if not impossible to alter such garments after the creases and pleats have been formed therein and the creaseproofing agent cured thereon.
  • a garment such as a mans suit, is first formed from cellulosecontaining textile material having a chemical creaseproofing agent thereon, which agent is in the latent or uncured state.
  • the formed garment still containing the uncured agent, has all of the desired creases and pleats placed therein and is then subjected to a temperature sufiicient to cure the agent, i.e., the agent reacts with the cellulose molecules and forms crosslinks therewith or, depending upon the agent, polymerization may occur and the polymer becomes attached to the cellulose molecules.
  • a catalyst for assisting in the curing or the reaction of the resin may also be present on the textile material.
  • the pleats and creases are rendered substantially permanent and the garment has wrinkle-resisting and wash-wear properties imparted thereto.
  • a known process for reacting or curing the latent creaseproofing agent utilizes a large oven into which the garment is placed and held at the desired temperature for the necessary period of time.
  • Still another apparatus useful in practicing the foregoing process is a machine press in which a portion of the garment is .placed, the pleats and creases formed, and the garment then pressed at a temperature sufficient to cure the creaseproofing agent and impart durable shaperetention to the pressed area. This proces is repeated until the entire garment has been pressed and treated.
  • Use of higher press temperature for shorter period of time enables a manufacturer more quickly to process a garment. Small manufacturers who dont have a volume output which justifies having a curing oven operating on a continuous basis are more likely to use a press for treating the garments.
  • Such presses are also useful in forming pleats and creases in garments made from fabrics,which have been previously pre-cured but having additional acid catalyst thereon.
  • the catalyst assists in breaking the formed bonds between the creaseproofing agent and the cellulose fibers and then, as the moisture is removed, reforming them to maintain the new creases and pleats in the garment.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a process of seam alteration in a cellulose fiber-containing fabric having a creaseproofing agent cured therein.
  • a further object is to provide a procedure for altering a seam position in a wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, wash/wear treated cellulose fiber-containing garment which avoids exposure of a durable crease adjacent a relocated seam.
  • a still further object of the invention is to provide an improved cotton garment having an altered seam without a pressed-in crease at the position of the seam formed during manufacture.
  • FIG. 1 is a sectional view of a seam formed in the conventional manner, fully busted and pressed flat in a conventional manner;
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a seam formed as in FIG. 1 in which the fabric contains a creaseproofing agent cured in the form shown in FIG. 1 after the same is let out for alterations and showing exposed permanent creases;
  • FIG. 3 shows a side seam of a garment, which seam is busted and formed according to the present invention
  • FIG. 4 shows a garment seam as in FIG. 3, but which has been let out during alteration
  • FIG. 5 shows a garment seam as in FIG. 3 having the seam taken in during alteration
  • FIG. 6 shows a center seam of a garment in accordance with the present invention.
  • FIG. 6a shows the center seam of FIG. 6 after it has been altered by letting out both seam allowances, and subsequently pressed.
  • a seam is conventionally formed as shown generally at 6 between two pieces of fabric 7 and 8 in which seam allowances 9 and 10 are provided beyond the junction between faces '7 and 8 and are suitably stitched together as at 11. Allowances 9 and 10 are of suflicient width to permit letting out of the garment merely by changing the position of stitching 11.
  • seam 6 When the seam 6 is a center seam of a garment, such as in the seat portion of a mans trousers, it is necessary to let out the seam allowances 9 and 10 an equal distance.
  • the seam 6 When the seam 6 is a side seam of a garment, such as a jacket, it is necessary for only one seam allowance 9 or 10 to be let out.
  • conventional garments such seams can be let out and new seams formed merely by heating and pressing, as with a hot iron, provided the fabric of the garment has not been previously treated with a chemical agent which would cause the fabric to resist any change in shape.
  • a garment such as a pair of trousers formed of a cellulose fiber-containing material, such as cotton, and having a creaseproofing agent cured therein so as to impart durable crease-retentive properties thereto
  • the seam 6 may be let out and restitched as at 11, FIG. 2, wherein both allowances 9 and 10 are shortened and repressed.
  • cured creases 12 and 13 remain in the exposed portion of the fabric adjacent seam 6, since the seam shape is permanently pressed during the curing process, and the creases are not removable by subsequent pressing or by further curing of the creaseproofing agent.
  • the seam is generally formed while pieces 7 and 8 are adjacent each other in face-to-face relationship, and are later separated as shown in FIG. 3, after which the allowances are folded either against piece 7 or piece 8 as shown.
  • the finish press may be accomplished at the same time the latent creaseproofing agent on the jacket is cured to give shape to the seam as a whole.
  • a seam formed as in FIG. 3 has the advantage that no sharp bend or crease is formed at any place within the piece 8 since allowance 16 is not sharply bent with respect to piece 8.
  • a small degree of curvature illustrated in FIG. 3 tends to some degree to be retained but is generally not noticeable in the finished garment after alteration for the reason that such treated fabrics are highly flexible, and, under tension, flex sufficiently to remove the curvature, illustrated at 17 in FIG. 3, generally as shown at 17' in FIG. 4. According to this procedure, it becomes feasible to alter garments either by letting out seams or taking them in after the creaseproofing agent has been cured.
  • the creases and seams formed during manufacture will, of course, be in final condition for those customers who require no alternation.
  • a seam allowance 14 may be altered by removing the stitching 15 and re-sewing as at 15' wherein the essentially fiat piece 8 extends without sharp curvature to include the allowance 16 or 16', depending upon the final location of the stitching.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates a seam as taken in during alteration to the customers measurement.
  • the cotton samples of fabric having flat seams were prepared from a cotton textile material which had a latent dihydroxy cyclic ethylene urea formaldehyde precondensate and zinc nitrate catalyst thereon.
  • One seam was busted in the regular manner by turning back both seam allowances in opposite directions, as shown in FIG. 1.
  • the other was fabricated so that the seam was busted, but the seam allowances were pressed in the same direction, as shown in FIG. 3.
  • the top seam allowance would then be free of a crease, since it was pressed flat rather than turned back.
  • Both samples were cured at 150 C. for five minutes.
  • the regular seam was let out and laundered and tumble-dried.
  • the other seam was altered by letting our the top seam allowance only and re-stitching along the creased line of the bottom seam allowance; it was then laundered and tumble-dried. Both seams were then pressed.
  • FIG. 6 the center seam is shown as it is formed before curing of the creaseproofing agent in the fabric.
  • the fabric and seam are then subjected to curing conditions for the creaseproo-fing agent without busting the seam to either side, i.e. ends 18 and 19 being left together in the manner shown in FIG. 6.
  • a curing may occur in an oven or treatment rack where the normal pressing of the center seam is omitted.
  • the seams are busted and'pressed.
  • Such a pressing produces a crease but not a crease which is durable against laundering or high humidity, since it tends to return to the condition at the time of curing, namely, that shown in FIG. 6.
  • the invention comprises a method of seam alteration, as in back seams of trousers, side seams of jackets, and the like, which method is applicable where curing may not be delayed until after alterations but in which the seam to be let out is left non-folded at the time of curing the creaseproofing agent, as in FIGS. 3 and 6.
  • creaseproofing agents which may be used in treating the fabrics and imparting crease-retaining, wrinkle-resisting, and washwear characteristics to the garments made therefrom are the aldehydes, such as formaldehyde; polyacetals, which are the products of a reaction between aldehydes and polyalcohols; methylol urea precondensates, such as dimethylol urea; cyclic methylol urea compounds, such as dimethylol ethylene urea, i.e.
  • aldehydes such as formaldehyde
  • polyacetals which are the products of a reaction between aldehydes and polyalcohols
  • methylol urea precondensates such as dimethylol urea
  • cyclic methylol urea compounds such as dimethylol ethylene urea, i.e.
  • triazones such as 1,3-dimethylol-5- hydroxy ethylperhydrotriazone-2
  • :methylol melamine compounds and triazines such as are produced by reacting melamine with formaldehyde
  • epoxides and related compounds such as diglycidyl ether of ethylene glycol
  • tris-l-aziridinyl phosphine oxide which imparts both crease and flame resistance to the cellulose
  • dichloropropanol and ethyl carbamate.
  • creaseproofing agents are known to produce the desired results on cellulosic fabrics, among the ones which are used commercially by the cotton industry to impart the desired wrinkle-resistant, shaperetaining, creaseproofing, and wash and wear properties are included dihydroxy dimethylol ethylene urea, 1,3 dimethylol 5 hydroxyethyl-perhydrotriazone-Z, diglycidyl ether of ethylene glycol, methyl, ethyl and hydroxy ethyl carbamates, and divinyl sulfone or divinyl sulfone donors, i.e., compounds which form divinyl sulfone during the treatment of the fabric. Also included are the melamine formaldehyde precondensates.
  • creaseproofing agents require the presence of catalyst during the curing step, while others, such as trimethylol phenol, do not.
  • the formaldehyde resins usually require acidic catalysts, while others, such as divinyl sulfone, require alkaline catalysts. Hence, whether a catalyst is used and whether it is acidic or basic will depend upon the particular creaseproofing agent used.
  • the catalysts belong to the following groups: organic acids, such as maleic, acetic, tartaric, oxalic, lactic, etc.; inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric; metal salts, such as aluminum, magnesium, copper, zinc, and calcium chlorides, zinc nitrate, zinc fluoroborate and the like; ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium phosphate, ammonium sulfate, etc.; organic amine salts such as the hydrochloride salts; alkali hydroxides and carbonates; as well as many others which will readily come to mind, depending upon the particular creaseproofing agent to be used.
  • organic acids such as maleic, acetic, tartaric, oxalic, lactic, etc.
  • inorganic acids such as hydrochloric
  • metal salts such as aluminum, magnesium, copper, zinc, and calcium chlorides, zinc nitrate, zinc fluoroborate and the like
  • ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride
  • the temperature of the curing step, the length of time for the cure, etc. will depend on the reagent-catalyst system employed, and the weight and type of fabric being treated. These are matters which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the amount of cross-linking reagent which is deposited on the cellulosic textile will usually vary from about 1 to about 15% by weight of the cellulosic textile. Amounts larger than 15% by weight may be used, if desired, but generally there is no additional advantage to be gained thereby. In fact, some beneficial results are obtained even when the amount of cured reagent on the fabric is less than 1% by weight of the fabric.
  • the solution, dispersion, or emulsion preferably used for treatment of the cellulosic material is an aqueous one as a matter of convenience and availability, since most commercial cellulose textile processors prefer to use aqueous systems rather than the more costly non-aqueous systems. Any suitable solvent may be used, however, de-
  • wetting agents may also be present in the treating bath along with softeners, lubricants, stiffening agents, and the hand modifiers, as well as other conventional finishing agents.
  • creaseproofing agents While the chemical reagents which impart the durable crease-retaining properties to the fabrics are referred to as creaseproofing agents in the specification and claims, the art is not certain as to whether the agents actually cross-link with the cellulose fibers of the fabric or whether they merely polymerize and are held to the fabric by other mechanisms. Applicants do not want to be restricted to any theory as to why the results are achieved, since the fact remains that they are achieved.
  • creaseproofing agent is to be understood to include the group of chemicals which are known or recognized by the art to impart creaseproofing, wringle-resisting, creaseand shape-retaining and wash/ wear properties to cellulose fiber-containing fabrics.
  • cellulose fiber-containing fabric, textile, or the like is meant to include cotton, rayon, linen, and blends of cotton and/ or rayon, with other natural or synthetic fibers, including nylon, polyacrylonitrile (Orlon), polyester (Dacron), wool, silk, and the like fibers. Excellent results have been obtained with blends containing 35% cotton, and as low as to cotton in a blend will also give results.
  • the amount of cellulose-containing fiber which need be present in the fabric is that amount which will give improved wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive and wash-wear properties when treated with a creaseproofing agent and the latter is cured thereon.
  • the term curing as used in this specification and claims refers to al reaction processes which the aforesaid creaseproofing agents undergo with the cellulose molecules of the garment fibers to impart wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, wash/wear properties to the garments.
  • said jacket being subsequently alterable by removing said side seam, letting out the other allowance in parallel overlying relationship to said first allowance and forming a new seam along the same seam line at the fold of said first allowance and a different portion of said other allowance, said altered jacket showing no undesirable crease adjacent said new seam caused by a portion of the jacket forming the first seam.
  • said trousers being subsequently alterable by removing the stitching along said center seam, letting out by substantially equal amounts the two fabric pieces forming said seat portion, and restitching said fabric pieces to form a new center seam wherein no durable creases appear on said seat portion of said trousers adjacent said new seam.
  • a cellulose fiber-containing jacket having a creaseproofiing agent cured thereon to impart wrinkle-resistant and crease-retentive properties thereof, said jacket having at least one side scam in the body thereof substantially parallel to and underlying the sleeve, said jacket being alterable by letting out one side only of said side seam without having any durable crease showing adjacent the altered area, said side seam securing two pieces of fabric which form an outer jacket face, each of said fabric pieces having a seam allowance extending inwardly on the side opposite the jacket face, one of said allowances being folded against the inner face of the piece with which it is integral, the other allowance underlying the folded allowance and being in parallel relationship thereto, said other allowance providing the alteration when it is let out since such other allowance has no fold therein.
  • a pair of cellulose fiber-containing trousers having a creaseproofing agent cured thereon to impart wrinkleresistant, crease-retentive and wash/ wear properties thereto, said trousers having a stitched center seam at the seat portion which secures two pieces of fabric forming said seat portion, each of said pieces of fabric having a seam allowance integral therewith and disposed on the inside seat portion of the trousers in face to face relationship along said seam, said seam allowances being in nonbusted form and substantially perpendicular to said fabric pieces when the creaseproofing agent is cured on said trousers, said pieces of fabric and said integral seam allowances being free of any durable fold at said center steam, said trousers being alterable by letting out the fabric of the seat portion a substantially equal amount on either side of said center seam without any durable crease showing adjacent the altered seam.
  • jacket is formed from cotton fabric.

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Description

March 1 68 N. F. GETCHELL ETAL ,3 2,
DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS AND METHOD FOR ALTERING SEAMS Filed April 25, 1965 INVENTORS NELSON F. GETCHELL WILLIAM R THOMAS,1]I
ATTORNEYS.
United States Patent Ofiiice 3,372,404 DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS AND METHOD FOR ALTERING SEAMS Nelson F. Getchell, Great Falls, Va., and William R. Thomas H], Bethlehem, Pa., assignors to Cotton Pro" ducers Institute, Memphis, Tenn, a corporation of Tennessee Filed Apr. 23, 1965, Ser. No. 450,396 (Ilaims. (CI. 2 275) ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of making garments, such as trousers, jackets, and the like from a cellulose fiber-containing fabric, which garments have a stitched seam formed therein. After a creaseproofing agent has been cured on the garment fabric so as to impart thereto creaseproof and wrinkle-resistant properties, the garments may be subsequently altered by being let out at the seam without any durable crease or creases showing in the altered area.
This invention relates to garments formed of cellulosecontaining material and treated with chemical agents, which agents, when cured thereon, impart to said garments Wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, and wash/wear properties, and, more particularly, the invention relates to an improved method whereby such garments having such chemical agents cured thereon can be readily altered.
In recent years, the use of textiles consisting of or containing cellulosic fibers, such as cotton, regenerated cellulose (rayon), and blends of cotton and/ or rayon with other natural and synthetic fibers, has become more widespread due to the several processes which have been developed for imparting suitably permanent, wrinkleresistant, crease-retentive and wash/wear properties to these materials, which properties survive the normal laundering or dry cleaning to which the garments are subjected. Among other uses, such treated cellulosic materials are employed in the manufacture of garments including jackets, skirts, and trousers.
While desirable pleats and creases placed in untreated cotton, rayon, and textile blends containing the same are not durable and are largely lost when the garment is either laundered or subjected to rain or even to very humid conditions, cellulosic textiles which have been treated with any one of the many known resin and non-resin creaseproofing agents retain all creases which have been formed in the material prior to the curing of the agent thereon. Furthermore, while garments made of untreated cellulosic materials are readily susceptible to wrinkling during use, garments made from treated materials when laundered and then hung to dry, not only retain any crease formed therein prior to curing of the chemical agent, but, also during use, are not susceptible to wrinkling.
Unfortunately, there are serious manufacturing disadvantages to the presently known processes for treating celulosic textiles or fabrics with known creaseproofing agents, either resin or non-resin, and forming garments from these fabrics. In one process, the fabrics are first treated with a creaseproofing agent and the agent is cured thereon while the fabric is in the flat state to impart the desired wrinkle-resisting, wash/Wear properties to the fabric. However, the fabric, when manufactured into a garment, because it was cured in the flat state, naturally resists the formation of durable pleats and/or creases therein.
For some purposes, it i possible to locally apply a chemical agent to a portion of a garment formed from such a treated fabric, which agent breaks the crosslinkages between the creaseproofing agent and the cellulose 3,372,4ii4 Patented Mar. 12, 1968 molecules. Upon subsequently forming a crease along this portion of the garment and subjecting the crease to conditions which permit recurring of the cross-linking agent to take place, the crease becomes substantially permanent. Many manufacturers are reluctant to so process the garment because of the added costs involved in obtaining satisfactory results.
In another process, an untreated fabric is first manufactured into a garment and the garment is subsequently treated with the creaseproofing agent which is cured thereon after the desired pleat-s and/or creases are first formed in the garment. Such a process again places the burden on the garment manufacturers to install the necessary equipment for treating the garment and many are reluctant to do so. Again, it is difficult if not impossible to alter such garments after the creases and pleats have been formed therein and the creaseproofing agent cured thereon.
Recently another method of forming Wrinkle-resistant cellulose fiber-containing garments with permanent creases and pleats has become commercially available. A garment, such as a mans suit, is first formed from cellulosecontaining textile material having a chemical creaseproofing agent thereon, which agent is in the latent or uncured state. The formed garment, still containing the uncured agent, has all of the desired creases and pleats placed therein and is then subjected to a temperature sufiicient to cure the agent, i.e., the agent reacts with the cellulose molecules and forms crosslinks therewith or, depending upon the agent, polymerization may occur and the polymer becomes attached to the cellulose molecules. If necessary, a catalyst for assisting in the curing or the reaction of the resin may also be present on the textile material. Upon completion of the curing step, the pleats and creases are rendered substantially permanent and the garment has wrinkle-resisting and wash-wear properties imparted thereto. A known process for reacting or curing the latent creaseproofing agent utilizes a large oven into which the garment is placed and held at the desired temperature for the necessary period of time.
Still another apparatus useful in practicing the foregoing process is a machine press in which a portion of the garment is .placed, the pleats and creases formed, and the garment then pressed at a temperature sufficient to cure the creaseproofing agent and impart durable shaperetention to the pressed area. This proces is repeated until the entire garment has been pressed and treated. Use of higher press temperature for shorter period of time enables a manufacturer more quickly to process a garment. Small manufacturers who dont have a volume output which justifies having a curing oven operating on a continuous basis are more likely to use a press for treating the garments.
Such presses are also useful in forming pleats and creases in garments made from fabrics,which have been previously pre-cured but having additional acid catalyst thereon. As the garment is moistened with steam in the press, the catalyst assists in breaking the formed bonds between the creaseproofing agent and the cellulose fibers and then, as the moisture is removed, reforming them to maintain the new creases and pleats in the garment.
The principal disadvantage of the latter described process, and also of the other known processes, is that once a garment has been made and the creaseproofing or wrinkleresistant agent is cured thereon or reacted therewith, it is extremely difiicult to alter the garment, since the formed creases and pleats cannot be readily removed and new creases or pleats cannot be readily formed.
It is to be noted that a problem arises in the fitting of trousers and jackets Where a center seam or a side seam is to be let out or taken in during alteration since such seams are normally pressed flat prior to curing the creaseproofing agent. For example, a side or shoulder seam of a jacket, as well as the center seam at the back of a jacket or pair of trousers, may require alteration. Such seams are normally formed and then busted and pressed with the seam allowance fiat against the fabric piece with which the particular seam allowance is integral. It is desirable that such seams be flattened as must as possible in order to be inconspicuous. When a seam formed of material having a creaseproofing agent therein has been fully cured in this busted condition, there is an obvious difficulty in letting out the seam since a durable or permanent crease is already formed at the position of the former stitching. It is practically impossible to remove the ridge which results when such a seam is let out and this ridge shows generally on each side of the new seam. When a seam is to be taken in, the presence of this ridge is of lesser importance since it does not show on the exterior of the garment.
It is accordingly an object of this invention to provide a method of forming a scam in a garment containing cellulosic fibers impregnated with a creaseprocfing agent cured in a pressed condition which seam may be altered without showing an exposed durably formed crease.
Another object of the invention is to provide a process of seam alteration in a cellulose fiber-containing fabric having a creaseproofing agent cured therein.
A further object is to provide a procedure for altering a seam position in a wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, wash/wear treated cellulose fiber-containing garment which avoids exposure of a durable crease adjacent a relocated seam.
A still further object of the invention is to provide an improved cotton garment having an altered seam without a pressed-in crease at the position of the seam formed during manufacture.
These and other objects of the invention will be better understood as the description proceeds in connection with the drawings in which:
FIG. 1 is a sectional view of a seam formed in the conventional manner, fully busted and pressed flat in a conventional manner;
FIG. 2 illustrates a seam formed as in FIG. 1 in which the fabric contains a creaseproofing agent cured in the form shown in FIG. 1 after the same is let out for alterations and showing exposed permanent creases;
FIG. 3 shows a side seam of a garment, which seam is busted and formed according to the present invention;
FIG. 4 shows a garment seam as in FIG. 3, but which has been let out during alteration;
FIG. 5 shows a garment seam as in FIG. 3 having the seam taken in during alteration;
FIG. 6 shows a center seam of a garment in accordance with the present invention; and
FIG. 6a shows the center seam of FIG. 6 after it has been altered by letting out both seam allowances, and subsequently pressed.
In providing alterability to flat seams of a garment, such as the side seam of a jacket, applicants improvement consists in providing a differently formed seam, illustrated in FIG. 3, in lieu of the fully busted seam of FIG. 1 wherein the seam allowances are both pressed fiat in the same direction along the inner face of one member of the fabric pieces joined at the seam. The parallel flat-folded allowances are then pressed in place during the curing operation which provides the wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, wash/wear characteristic to the fabric as a whole.
Referring now to FIG. 1, a seam is conventionally formed as shown generally at 6 between two pieces of fabric 7 and 8 in which seam allowances 9 and 10 are provided beyond the junction between faces '7 and 8 and are suitably stitched together as at 11. Allowances 9 and 10 are of suflicient width to permit letting out of the garment merely by changing the position of stitching 11.
When the seam 6 is a center seam of a garment, such as in the seat portion of a mans trousers, it is necessary to let out the seam allowances 9 and 10 an equal distance. When the seam 6 is a side seam of a garment, such as a jacket, it is necessary for only one seam allowance 9 or 10 to be let out. With conventional garments, such seams can be let out and new seams formed merely by heating and pressing, as with a hot iron, provided the fabric of the garment has not been previously treated with a chemical agent which would cause the fabric to resist any change in shape.
When a garment, such as a pair of trousers formed of a cellulose fiber-containing material, such as cotton, and having a creaseproofing agent cured therein so as to impart durable crease-retentive properties thereto, has to be altered by letting out a seam, such as that shown in FIG. 1, the seam 6 may be let out and restitched as at 11, FIG. 2, wherein both allowances 9 and 10 are shortened and repressed. However, cured creases 12 and 13 remain in the exposed portion of the fabric adjacent seam 6, since the seam shape is permanently pressed during the curing process, and the creases are not removable by subsequent pressing or by further curing of the creaseproofing agent.
To avoid this difficulty when the side seam of a jacket must be altered, i.e. that seam on the jacket body which is usually parallel with the sleeve and is covered by the sleeve when the wearers arms hang down, applicants form a scam in a manner as illustrated in FIG. 3 in which pieces 7 and 8 are joined in a seam 14 by stitching 15 and the allowances 9 and 16 are both pressed along the same direction from seam 14- along the back of piece 7. It may be noted that stitching 15 is generally similar to stitching 11 although not necessarily fully parallel with the face of the garment extending along pieces 7 and 8. Applicants may fold allowances 9 and 16 as shown in FIG. 3, or equivalently, may fold both allowances against piece 8. In either case, the seam is generally formed while pieces 7 and 8 are adjacent each other in face-to-face relationship, and are later separated as shown in FIG. 3, after which the allowances are folded either against piece 7 or piece 8 as shown. Upon completing this folding operation in lieu of busting the seam in the conventional manner shown in FIG. 1, the finish press may be accomplished at the same time the latent creaseproofing agent on the jacket is cured to give shape to the seam as a whole.
A seam formed as in FIG. 3 has the advantage that no sharp bend or crease is formed at any place within the piece 8 since allowance 16 is not sharply bent with respect to piece 8. A small degree of curvature illustrated in FIG. 3 tends to some degree to be retained but is generally not noticeable in the finished garment after alteration for the reason that such treated fabrics are highly flexible, and, under tension, flex sufficiently to remove the curvature, illustrated at 17 in FIG. 3, generally as shown at 17' in FIG. 4. According to this procedure, it becomes feasible to alter garments either by letting out seams or taking them in after the creaseproofing agent has been cured. The creases and seams formed during manufacture will, of course, be in final condition for those customers who require no alternation.
As illustrated in FIG. 4, a seam allowance 14 may be altered by removing the stitching 15 and re-sewing as at 15' wherein the essentially fiat piece 8 extends without sharp curvature to include the allowance 16 or 16', depending upon the final location of the stitching. FIG. 5 illustrates a seam as taken in during alteration to the customers measurement.
The cotton samples of fabric having flat seams were prepared from a cotton textile material which had a latent dihydroxy cyclic ethylene urea formaldehyde precondensate and zinc nitrate catalyst thereon. One seam was busted in the regular manner by turning back both seam allowances in opposite directions, as shown in FIG. 1. The other was fabricated so that the seam was busted, but the seam allowances were pressed in the same direction, as shown in FIG. 3. The top seam allowance would then be free of a crease, since it was pressed flat rather than turned back. Both samples were cured at 150 C. for five minutes. The regular seam was let out and laundered and tumble-dried. The other seam was altered by letting our the top seam allowance only and re-stitching along the creased line of the bottom seam allowance; it was then laundered and tumble-dried. Both seams were then pressed.
Observation of the two samples showed that the seam altered in the regular manner retained its original crease, and there was considerable roundness at the seam. The seam prepared by the new technique was excellent in appearance; no crease was visible and seam roundness was at a minimum.
According to a second application of this invention it is also possible to let out a center seam, such as that at the seat portion of mens trousers, at both sides without leaving an objection-able ridge. It may be noted in connection with the foregoing description and drawings that a fold in treated material pressed into a sharp crease before curing is durable and not removable by further pressing or curing. If a fold is not sharp it does not present the same problem. Thus the slight bends in fabric piece 8 shown in FIGS. 3, 4 and 5 do not cause difiiculty while the bend or crease in the fabric piece 7 is not removable.
In FIG. 6 the center seam is shown as it is formed before curing of the creaseproofing agent in the fabric. The fabric and seam are then subjected to curing conditions for the creaseproo-fing agent without busting the seam to either side, i.e. ends 18 and 19 being left together in the manner shown in FIG. 6. Such a curing may occur in an oven or treatment rack where the normal pressing of the center seam is omitted. After the curing step, the seams are busted and'pressed. Such a pressing produces a crease but not a crease which is durable against laundering or high humidity, since it tends to return to the condition at the time of curing, namely, that shown in FIG. 6. When the trousers must be let out at the seat, the stitching is removed, seam allowances 18, 19 let out, and the seam re-stitched, as shown in FIG. 6a. While slight ridges of non-sharp outline are apparent on either side of the newly formed seam, these are readily removable on pressing of the trousers with a hot iron or press. Then, as shown in FIG. 6a, no ridges are seen at 12 and 13' which are the positions of stitching of the seam 14 in FIG. 6. This is because the original center seam did not have a full or sharp fold, as does the scam in FIG. 1.
Accordingly the invention comprises a method of seam alteration, as in back seams of trousers, side seams of jackets, and the like, which method is applicable where curing may not be delayed until after alterations but in which the seam to be let out is left non-folded at the time of curing the creaseproofing agent, as in FIGS. 3 and 6.
Among the various and well known creaseproofing agents which may be used in treating the fabrics and imparting crease-retaining, wrinkle-resisting, and washwear characteristics to the garments made therefrom are the aldehydes, such as formaldehyde; polyacetals, which are the products of a reaction between aldehydes and polyalcohols; methylol urea precondensates, such as dimethylol urea; cyclic methylol urea compounds, such as dimethylol ethylene urea, i.e. l,3-bis-(hydroxymethyl)- Z-imidazolidone; triazones such as 1,3-dimethylol-5- hydroxy ethylperhydrotriazone-2; :methylol melamine compounds and triazines, such as are produced by reacting melamine with formaldehyde; epoxides and related compounds, such as diglycidyl ether of ethylene glycol; and tris-l-aziridinyl phosphine oxide which imparts both crease and flame resistance to the cellulose; dichloropropanol; and ethyl carbamate.
Also included as creaseproofing agents within the meaning of this term for the present invention, are condensation products of formaldehyde with acetone, with acrolein, with acetone and acrolein, with phenol, with diethylene glycol dicarbamate, with formamide, with hydroxyl amines, with polymerized methacryl amides, with urea and alkylene oxides and epichlorohydrin, with tetrahydroiminopyrimidine, with hydrazides of monoand dicarboxylic acids, with low-molecular weight polyesters or polyurethane, with nitrilotripropionamide, with glyoxal and urea, with hexamethylene diamine and urea, with hexose ureides, with dicyandiamide and urea, and with 2-oxo-4,5-diimino parabanic acid resins; the urons; chloromethyl ethers of polyhydric alcohols; dicarboxylic acid anhydrides and diesters; copolymers of ethylenic dicarboxylic acids with vinyl compounds; salts of poly (vinyloxyalkyl) amines; cyclopropyl quaternary am monium compounds, silicones and resin precondensates; quaternary ammonium derivatives of silicones, and halo-silanes; bis (hydroxymethylene) of 1,4-butanediol; orthophosphoric acid, urea, and sodium hydroxide; diisocyanates; aldehyde-ethylene imine reaction products and phosgeneethylene imine reaction products; formyl alkyl oxetanes; divinyl sulfone, its derivatives, and vinyl sulfone-urea addition products; onium compounds; and rubber latex with chloromethyl ethers. Mixtures of any of the above may also be used.
While all of the above creaseproofing agents are known to produce the desired results on cellulosic fabrics, among the ones which are used commercially by the cotton industry to impart the desired wrinkle-resistant, shaperetaining, creaseproofing, and wash and wear properties are included dihydroxy dimethylol ethylene urea, 1,3 dimethylol 5 hydroxyethyl-perhydrotriazone-Z, diglycidyl ether of ethylene glycol, methyl, ethyl and hydroxy ethyl carbamates, and divinyl sulfone or divinyl sulfone donors, i.e., compounds which form divinyl sulfone during the treatment of the fabric. Also included are the melamine formaldehyde precondensates.
Some of the above-listed creaseproofing agents require the presence of catalyst during the curing step, while others, such as trimethylol phenol, do not. The formaldehyde resins usually require acidic catalysts, while others, such as divinyl sulfone, require alkaline catalysts. Hence, whether a catalyst is used and whether it is acidic or basic will depend upon the particular creaseproofing agent used. Generally, the catalysts belong to the following groups: organic acids, such as maleic, acetic, tartaric, oxalic, lactic, etc.; inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric; metal salts, such as aluminum, magnesium, copper, zinc, and calcium chlorides, zinc nitrate, zinc fluoroborate and the like; ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium phosphate, ammonium sulfate, etc.; organic amine salts such as the hydrochloride salts; alkali hydroxides and carbonates; as well as many others which will readily come to mind, depending upon the particular creaseproofing agent to be used.
In the same manner, the temperature of the curing step, the length of time for the cure, etc., will depend on the reagent-catalyst system employed, and the weight and type of fabric being treated. These are matters which are well known to those skilled in the art.
The amount of cross-linking reagent which is deposited on the cellulosic textile will usually vary from about 1 to about 15% by weight of the cellulosic textile. Amounts larger than 15% by weight may be used, if desired, but generally there is no additional advantage to be gained thereby. In fact, some beneficial results are obtained even when the amount of cured reagent on the fabric is less than 1% by weight of the fabric.
The solution, dispersion, or emulsion preferably used for treatment of the cellulosic material is an aqueous one as a matter of convenience and availability, since most commercial cellulose textile processors prefer to use aqueous systems rather than the more costly non-aqueous systems. Any suitable solvent may be used, however, de-
pending upon which system is to be utilized. Wetting agents may also be present in the treating bath along with softeners, lubricants, stiffening agents, and the hand modifiers, as well as other conventional finishing agents.
While the chemical reagents which impart the durable crease-retaining properties to the fabrics are referred to as creaseproofing agents in the specification and claims, the art is not certain as to whether the agents actually cross-link with the cellulose fibers of the fabric or whether they merely polymerize and are held to the fabric by other mechanisms. Applicants do not want to be restricted to any theory as to why the results are achieved, since the fact remains that they are achieved. Thus, the term creaseproofing agent is to be understood to include the group of chemicals which are known or recognized by the art to impart creaseproofing, wringle-resisting, creaseand shape-retaining and wash/ wear properties to cellulose fiber-containing fabrics.
It is also to be understood that the term cellulose fiber-containing fabric, textile, or the like, is meant to include cotton, rayon, linen, and blends of cotton and/ or rayon, with other natural or synthetic fibers, including nylon, polyacrylonitrile (Orlon), polyester (Dacron), wool, silk, and the like fibers. Excellent results have been obtained with blends containing 35% cotton, and as low as to cotton in a blend will also give results. The amount of cellulose-containing fiber which need be present in the fabric is that amount which will give improved wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive and wash-wear properties when treated with a creaseproofing agent and the latter is cured thereon. The term curing as used in this specification and claims refers to al reaction processes which the aforesaid creaseproofing agents undergo with the cellulose molecules of the garment fibers to impart wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive, wash/wear properties to the garments.
We claim:
1. A method of making a jacket from a cellulose fibercontaining fabric wherein the jacket has at least one side scam in the body thereof substantially parallel to and underlying the sleeve, said jacket having a creaseproofing agent cured thereon to impart thereto wrinkle-resistant and crease-resistive properties, said jacket being alterable by letting out said side seam without its having any undesirable crease showing in said jacket adjacent the altered area, comprising forming said side seam by stitching together two pieces of jacket fabric along a seam line and forming a seam allowance for each piece of fabric on one side of said seam, said jacket fabric having a latent creaseproofing agent thereon,
folding one of said allowances at said seam line against the face of the piece with which it is integral, laying the other said allowance in parallel overlying relationship to said first allowance,
and curing said creaseproofing agent in said jecket fabric while said allowances are in said relationship,
said jacket being subsequently alterable by removing said side seam, letting out the other allowance in parallel overlying relationship to said first allowance and forming a new seam along the same seam line at the fold of said first allowance and a different portion of said other allowance, said altered jacket showing no undesirable crease adjacent said new seam caused by a portion of the jacket forming the first seam.
2. A method of making a garment from a cellulose fiber-containing fabric wherein the garment has at least one seam in the body thereof and subsequently altering said garment, said grament fabric having a creaseproofing agent cured thereon which imparts to said garment wrinkle-resistant and crease-retentive properties, said garment being alterable by letting out said seam without having any undesirable crease showing in said garment adjacent the altered area comprising placing in face-to-face relation two pieces of the fabric to be joined together to make said garment, said fabric having a latent creaseproofing agent thereon,
stitching said pieces together along a desired seam line to form a seam allowance for each piece on one side of said seam,
busting said pieces apart to form a garment face exteriorly along said seam line, folding together said seam allowances on the side of said seam line opposite said face to underlie one of said pieces, only one of said allowances being folded on said one piece, the other of said allowances being in parallel overlying relationship to said folded allowance, curing said creaseproofing agent on said garment while maintaining said allowance against said one piece to form an interior face for said seam, and
subsequently altering said garment by removing said stitching and letting out said seam allowance which is in parallel overlying relationship to the folded allowance and restitching said two pieces along the same seam line of said folded allowance and a different seam line of the other said allowance, said altered garment showing no undesirable crease adjacent the new seam caused by that portion of the garment forming the first seam.
3. A process for manufacturing a pair of trousers from a cellulose fiber-containing fabric wherein the trousers have a stitched center seam at the seat portion, said trouser fabric having a ceaseproofing agent cured thereon which imparts to said trousers wrinkle-resistant, crease-retentive and wash/wear properties, said trousers being alterable by letting out said seat portion along said center seam without having any undesirable crease shownng in said seat portion adjacent the altered area comprising placing in face-to-face relation the two fabric pieces which are to make up the seat portion of the trousers, said fabric having a latent creaseproofing agent thereon,
stitching together said two fabric pieces along a center seam line while leaving seam allowances on one side of said stitching,
maintaining said seam allowances in face-to-face relationship, substantially perpendicular to said fabric pieces and in non-busted form,
and curing said creaseproofing agent on said trousers while so maintaining said seam allowances,
said trousers being subsequently alterable by removing the stitching along said center seam, letting out by substantially equal amounts the two fabric pieces forming said seat portion, and restitching said fabric pieces to form a new center seam wherein no durable creases appear on said seat portion of said trousers adjacent said new seam.
4. A cellulose fiber-containing jacket having a creaseproofiing agent cured thereon to impart wrinkle-resistant and crease-retentive properties thereof, said jacket having at least one side scam in the body thereof substantially parallel to and underlying the sleeve, said jacket being alterable by letting out one side only of said side seam without having any durable crease showing adjacent the altered area, said side seam securing two pieces of fabric which form an outer jacket face, each of said fabric pieces having a seam allowance extending inwardly on the side opposite the jacket face, one of said allowances being folded against the inner face of the piece with which it is integral, the other allowance underlying the folded allowance and being in parallel relationship thereto, said other allowance providing the alteration when it is let out since such other allowance has no fold therein.
5. A pair of cellulose fiber-containing trousers having a creaseproofing agent cured thereon to impart wrinkleresistant, crease-retentive and wash/ wear properties thereto, said trousers having a stitched center seam at the seat portion which secures two pieces of fabric forming said seat portion, each of said pieces of fabric having a seam allowance integral therewith and disposed on the inside seat portion of the trousers in face to face relationship along said seam, said seam allowances being in nonbusted form and substantially perpendicular to said fabric pieces when the creaseproofing agent is cured on said trousers, said pieces of fabric and said integral seam allowances being free of any durable fold at said center steam, said trousers being alterable by letting out the fabric of the seat portion a substantially equal amount on either side of said center seam without any durable crease showing adjacent the altered seam.
6. The process as defined in claim 1 wherein said jacket is heat pressed along said new side seam.
jacket is formed from cotton fabric.
10 8. The process as defined in claim 2 wherein said garment is heat pressed along said new seam.
'9. The process as defined in claim 2 wherein said garment is formed from cotton fabric.
10. The process as defined in claim 3 wherein said cellulose fiber-containing fabric is a cotton fabric.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 413,191 10/1889 Kraus 2275 X 1,426,892 8/ 1922 McCoy 2-275 X 3,166,765 1/ 1965 Getchell 2--243 X 3,268,915 8/1966 Warnock et a1. 2--243 HERBERT F. ROSS, Primary Examiner.
US450396A 1965-04-23 1965-04-23 Durable press garments and method for altering seams Expired - Lifetime US3372404A (en)

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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4705084A (en) * 1985-05-28 1987-11-10 Rodebaugh Jimmy L Cover for outdoor table and benches
US20180213858A1 (en) * 2017-02-01 2018-08-02 Medline Industries, Inc. Surgeon Gown with Sealed Sleeves and Methods of Manufacturing the Same
US10292510B1 (en) 2017-03-24 2019-05-21 Natalie Tefft-Feldman Place setting overlay for a table
USD892519S1 (en) 2019-05-16 2020-08-11 Celebration Innovations, Llc Place setting overlay for a table
US10750799B2 (en) 2013-03-14 2020-08-25 Medline Industries, Inc. Surgeon gown with sealed sleeves and methods of manufacturing the same
USD894638S1 (en) 2019-05-16 2020-09-01 Celebration Innovations, Llc Place setting overlay for a table
US10959471B2 (en) * 2015-02-10 2021-03-30 Romer Millinery Turban

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US1426892A (en) * 1920-08-30 1922-08-22 Fred H Mccoy Seam
US3166765A (en) * 1964-08-26 1965-01-26 Cotton Producers Inst Of The N Durably creased trousers and method of cuffing same
US3268915A (en) * 1963-04-08 1966-08-30 Koratron Company Inc Process of manufacturing press-free garment with retained creases

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US413191A (en) * 1889-10-22 Corset
US1426892A (en) * 1920-08-30 1922-08-22 Fred H Mccoy Seam
US3268915A (en) * 1963-04-08 1966-08-30 Koratron Company Inc Process of manufacturing press-free garment with retained creases
US3166765A (en) * 1964-08-26 1965-01-26 Cotton Producers Inst Of The N Durably creased trousers and method of cuffing same

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4705084A (en) * 1985-05-28 1987-11-10 Rodebaugh Jimmy L Cover for outdoor table and benches
US10750799B2 (en) 2013-03-14 2020-08-25 Medline Industries, Inc. Surgeon gown with sealed sleeves and methods of manufacturing the same
US10959471B2 (en) * 2015-02-10 2021-03-30 Romer Millinery Turban
US20180213858A1 (en) * 2017-02-01 2018-08-02 Medline Industries, Inc. Surgeon Gown with Sealed Sleeves and Methods of Manufacturing the Same
US10292510B1 (en) 2017-03-24 2019-05-21 Natalie Tefft-Feldman Place setting overlay for a table
USD892519S1 (en) 2019-05-16 2020-08-11 Celebration Innovations, Llc Place setting overlay for a table
USD894638S1 (en) 2019-05-16 2020-09-01 Celebration Innovations, Llc Place setting overlay for a table

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