US331701A

US331701A - Thomas s

Info

Publication number: US331701A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1885-12-01
Anticipated expiration: 1902-12-01

Description

(No Model) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

T. s. GILBERT.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING GORSETS.

No. 331,701. Patented Dec. 1, 1885.7

(No Model.) 2 SheetsSheet 2. T. S. GILBERT.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING GORSETS.

No. 331,701. Patented Dec. 1, 1885.

filer/g f N. PEYERs Phnmumn n hm. Washinglan. D C.

Urrirsn Sraras Farewr Orricei THOMAS S. GILBERT, OF NEV HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO MAYER STEOUSE 8t 00., OF SAME PLACE.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING CORSETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 331,701, dated December 1, 1885.

Application filed March 30, 1885.

To (4Z6 whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMihS S. GILBERT, of New Haven, in the county of New Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a new Improvement in Machines for Shaping Corsets; and I do hereby declare the following, when taken in connection with accompanying drawings and the letters of reference marked thereon, to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, and which said drawings constitute part of this specification, and represent, in-

Figure 1, a top or plan view of the machine; Fig. 2, an end view of the same; Fig. 3, a transverse central section; Fig. at, an under side View of the former, showing the device for operating the former-clamp.

This invention relates to an apparatus for shaping corsets, such as are made from several sections of woven fabric stitched and stayed.

Numerous devices have been employed for giving to the corset the required shape. This shaping is necessarily done while the corset is in a moist condition, and so that as it dries it will retain the shape of the former on which the shape is given. In some cases the shaping has been produced by a divided former, the parts of which are adapted to be forced from each other, so that a corset secured around the former, the expansion of the former will force the corset to conform to its shape. In other cases stationary clamps have been arranged, one at each side of a former, to grasp the edges of the corset, and then the former forced into the corset thus held. In other cases the former has been stationary and the clamps which engage the edge of the corset moved to draw the corset onto the former. But in all these cases the corset embraces the entire former on the start, so that the stretching is given over the whole surface of the former, causing the corset to rub upon the surface of the former, making the strain unnatural and irregular.

The object of my invention is the construc tion of a device whereby the strain may be applied to the corset, beginning at one edge and gradually working toward the opposite Serial No. 160,559. (No model.)

edge over the former, so that all rubbing effect between the former and corset is avoided; and the invention consists in a stationary clamp adapted to engage one edge of the corset, combined with a former hung adjacent to said stationary clamp, and so as to swing upon an 5 axis substantially parallel with the line of the clamp, and a clamp on said former, whereby one edge of the corset secured in the fixed clamp, the other edge of the corset secured by the clamp on the former, then a to tative movement of the former from the fixed clamp will gradually stretch the corset over the former, as more fully hereinafter de scribed.

A represents the former, which in shape corresponds to the corset to be finished, and may be made of metal and hollow, so that steam may be introduced into it to give it the required heat. It is hung upon atrunnion, a, at each end, in bearings B, and so as to ro- 7o tate thereon. The trunnions are eccentric to the axis of the former, as seen in Fig. 2that is to say, are near one surface and nearer one edge than the other.

Upon one side of the former a clamp, C, is 7 applied, adapted to grasp one edge of the corset. Near each end of the clamp rods 1) extend inward, (see Fig. 4,) each into connection with or so as to rest upon one arm, d, of a lever, each hung upon its fulcrum c, and eX- 8c tending toward the center of the former, where a cam, D, is arranged to be operated by ahandie, F, so that when the cam is turned as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 4, the levers will be brought to bear upon the rods b, and the clamp will be forced outward from the former, as indicated in broken lines in that figure. To the clamp springs f are applied, the action of which is to draw the clamp hard against the surface of the former, and with sufficient force 0 to grasp the edge of the corset and hold it for the operation of shaping. This clamp is upon the outer or front edge of the former.

On the bed G of the machine, and from which the bearings B extend that carry the 5 former, a slide, H, is arranged to be moved in a horizontal plane toward and from the former. Springs h are arranged, the tendency of which is to force the slide toward the former, and on the forward edge of the slide is onejaw, I, of a clamp, the otherjaw, J, being stationary on the bed, as seen in Fig. 3, and so that one edge of the corset may be grasped between the two jaws I J of the stationary clamp. Thejaws I J are opened by drawing back the slide II. This may be done by means of a system of levers, (shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3,) by the application of the foot to a pedal, in connection with a rod, L, extending from one arm, M, of the said levers. As represented, the levers are arms N, extending from a rock-shaft, O, with connecting rods I from said arms into connection with the slide; but the slide H may be moved by any suitable device operated by power-foot, hand, or otherwise.

The eccentricity of the trunnions with relation to the former and the fixed jaw is such that as the former is turned on its trunnions to take its forward or clamp edge toward the fixed clamp,the clamp on the former approaches the fixed clamp, as indicated in Fig. 3 and as in brokenlines, Fig. 2. Now, ifin this position one edge of a corset be secured in the fixed clamp and the other edge secured in the clamp on the former, and as indicated by the broken line t, Fig. 3, then if the former be turned downward and forward, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 3, the result is, that the corset will be stretched over the former until the rear edge of the former comes close to the fixed clamp and the clamp O on the former is substantially opposite the said fixed clamp, as seen in Fig. 3. In such movement of the former it will be observed that the corset strikes the former at the front edge first, and gradually comes upon the former until it arrives to the position of being completely formed, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 3. The stretching of the corset is made between the bearing of the corset on the former and the fixed clamp, so that the rubbing effect due to drawing the corset by both edges, as in previous constructions, is avoided, and because of this less power is required to shape the corset.

As it is desirable to hold the former for some length of time while the corset is drying, I employ a ratchet-wheel, It, provided with a pawl, S, and a handle, T. From the ratchetR a rod, U, extends to a pivot on the former forward of its trunnions, as seen in Fig. 2, and so that the rotative movement of the former may be imparted by the handle T and the pawl engage the ratchet so fast as the former is turned from the fixed jaw, and so as to hold it in any position at which it may be left.

The former may be heated in any of the known methods of heating-say as by steam introduced through the trunnions, as indicated at .V, Fig. l. The heating, however, is not essential, as the corset may dry without heatinm The mechanism by which the respective clamps are operated is immaterial, and may be modified to a very considerable extent, it only being essential that there shall be a fixed jaw at one side of the former, and independent of the former, and a jaw upon the opposite side of the former, attached to and so as to move with the former.

I claim- 1. In an apparatus for forming and shaping corsets, a former hung upon trunnions and adapted to receive a rotative movement, a clamp at one side of said former, stationary and independent of said former, combined with a clamp upon the opposite side of said former, attached to and movable with said former in its rotative movement, substantially as described.

2. A former in shape corresponding to the corset to be finished, hung upon trunnions eccentric to the axis of the said former and adapted to rotate thereon, a clamp at one side of said former, but stationary and independent of the former, combined with a second clamp attached to said former and movable therewith, the said two clamps adapted the one to engage one edge of the corset and the other adapted to engage the other edge of the corset, substantially as described.

3. In an apparatus for forming and shaping corsets, the combination ota former hung upon trunnions, one at each end, and adapted to rotate thereon, a clamp independent of said former, arranged at one side thereof, and stationary with relation to the said former, a clamp upon the opposite side of the former, and movable with it, the said two clamps adapted to engage, the one clamp one edge of the corset to be shaped, the other adapted to engage the opposite edge of the corset, a ratchet, and a connection therefrom to the former, whereby the former may be held in position after the shaping of the corset, substantially as described.

4. The combination of the former A, hung upon trunnions at its respective ends, and adapted to rotate thereon, the clamp (l, attached to one side of said former, and so as to move therewith, the said clamp adapted to engage one edge of the corset, the fixed jaw J, and a slide carrying a second jaw, I, which,

IIO

together with the jaw J, forms a fixed clamp to engage the other edge of the corset, and independent of the former, springs to force said slide toward the fixed jaw, and a system of levers to withdraw said slide to open the said jaws I J, substantially as described.

5. The combination of the former A, hung upon trunnions at its respective ends, and adapted to rotate thereon, the clamp C, arranged at one side of the former, springs ff, adapted to draw said clamp against the corresponding surface of the former, a cam, D, and levers extending therefrom into substantial connection with the said clamp O, and whereby said clamp C may be forcibly opened by the cam or closed by its spring, and a over the former bya rotative movement thereciamp upon the opposite side of the former, but of, substantially as described.

stationary and independent thereof, the said y stationary clamp adapted to engage one edge THOMAS GILBERT of the corset, and the said clamp (3 to engage Witnesses:

the other edge of the corset, substantially as A J H. SHUMWAY,

described, and whereby the corset is drawn Jos. O. EARLE.