US3207107A

US3207107A - Sewing system for producing alternate stitches on both sides of a material

Info

Publication number: US3207107A
Application number: US326599A
Authority: US
Inventors: Ferre Jose Castany
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1959-09-23
Filing date: 1963-11-27
Publication date: 1965-09-21
Anticipated expiration: 1982-09-21
Also published as: DE1182034B; CH369653A

Description

p 21, 1965 J. CASTANY FERRE 3,207,107

SEWING SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING ALTERNATE STITCHES ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL Filed Nov. 27, 1963 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG I FIG 2 FIG 3 Jose Casfany Ferre' INVENTOR ATTORNEYS p 21, 1965 J. CASTANY FERRE 3, 7, 07

SEWING SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING ALTERNATE STITGHES ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL Filed NOV. 27, 1963 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 m 22 25 I FIG l0 4 VI/JVIIIIIIIII m VII/J. 30

24 Jose Casio/1y Ferre' INVENTOR ATTOR N EYS p 1965 J. CASTANY FERRE 3,207,107

SEWING SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING ALTERNATE STITCHES ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL Filed Nov. 27, 1963 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 FIG I4 FIG I5 FIG IG Jose Casfany Ferre' INVENTOR BY WWMM ATTORNEYS p 21, 1965 J. CASTANY FERRE 07, 07

SEWING SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING ALTERNATE STITCHES ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL Filed Nov. 27, 1963 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Jose Casfany Ferre' INVENTOR ATTORNEYS United States Patent 3,207,107 SEWING SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING ALTERNATE STITCHES ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL Jose Castany Ferr, Calle Borrell 122, Barcelona, Spain Filed Nov. 27, 1963, Ser. No. 326,599 Claims priority, application Spain, Sept. 23, 1959, 252,575; Sept. 26, 1959, 76,226 3 Claims. (Cl. 112-170) This application is a continuation-in-part of my copending application entitled Sewing System for Producing Alternate Stitches on Both Sides, filed September 14, 1960, under Serial No. 55,931, and now abandoned.

The present invention refers to a new method of sewing certain kinds of seams by machine, especially the kind of alternate stitches on both sides of the material which has preferably been done by hand.

The stitching on lapels and edges on tailored garments has to be done by hand, as the stitches pass alternately from one side to the other side of the garment, forming spaced stitches and using only one thread. This operation cannot be carried out ,with current sewing machines which always use two threads, one for each side of the material, thereby producing successive and continuous stitches, and alternate stitches on both sides cannot be produced.

The object of the present invention is to provide by means of a conveniently adapted sewing machine and a needle with special characteristics, the above mentioned distribution of stitching, either on lapels or for any other application so that with only one thread there is obtained alternate stitches on the right and wrong side respectively of the material.

The above object is attained on a sewing machine by using pieces of thread cut to a certain length for combination with a special needle that can be threaded or unthreaded at every stitch by means of a mechanism comprising movable pincers having two jaws with forked ends to clamp the needle thread temporarily during the unthreading and subsequent threading of the needle.

The present description does not include details of the construction of the mechanism that puts each accessory organ into action, as this mechanism may adopt different dispositions and work in accordance with the usual techniques.

A further object of the invention is to provide a needle having a sharp point, formed by two shafts or longitudinal bodies, juxtaposed, one of which has a lateral open eye that can be closed by moving the other shaft. To this effect, the body or shaft of the needle is divided longitudinally into two parts possessing a relative sliding movement with respect to each other, one of the parts constituting a seam 1 f semicircular or any other adequate sec tion, integral with the point, and the other part being of a similar disposition and integral with a protruding tongue that covers and uncovers the eye of the needle. Both parts are lodged in a common sleeve, and the upper extremes of these parts are provided with means for their connection to the motion members in order to produce the elevation of the needle or the relative sliding of the tongue.

As indicated above, one thread only is used for sewing, which is formed by separate threads previously cut to a determined length. Supposing the needle is threaded and placed at the top of the machine table, the working mechanisms of which are disposed in such a manner as to stick the needle into the material drawing the thread twofold, the movable tongue of the eye opens, the needle becomes unthreaded retreating threadless to the top of the material leaving a loop of thread underneath, which is grasped and straightened by means of a movable hook, so that the loose end is drawn out, leaving only one thread pierced 3,207,107 Patented Sept. 21, 1965 through the material. Next the material moves forward and the empty needle again pierces the material at a convenient distance from the former stitch and when the needle eye has passed through to the wrong side, this eye opens again by displacement of the closing tongue and becomes threaded with the loose end underneath, the needle then retreats thus forming the stitch on the wrong side of the material, after which the material again moves on to the space relative to the next stitch, and the cycle is repeated.

The fundamental workings of these operations and the disposition adopted for the needle, as well as the function of the other organs causing the threading and unthreading of the needle, will be better understood from the description and the drawings showing a preferable form of execution in which:

FIGURE 1 is a schematic side view of a needle with the eye closed.

FIGURE 2 is a schematic View of the needle from the front with the eye open.

FIGURE 3 is a similar view from the side with the eye open.

FIGURE 4 illustrates schematically the position assumed by various elements when the needle is ready to pierce the material.

FIGURES 5 to 13 inclusive are views similar to FIG- URE 4 illustrating the successive movements of the elements in order to produce a stitch at the top side and another stitch at the bottom side of the material in order to form alternate stitches which are conveniently spaced.

FIGURES 14, 15 and 16 are schematic views illustrating particularly the operation of the clamp which cooperates with the needle, and

FIGURE 17 is a diagrammatic view showing the means for operating the various instrumentalities.

As shown by FIGURES 1, 2 and 3, the needle is fundamentally formed by a stem or shaft 10 ending in a sharp point 11 provided with an eye 12 opened at one of its lateral walls 13. This opening is closed by means of a sliding tongue 14 upon another shaft 15 juxtaposed to shaft 10 and both may be displaced with respect t each other.

Shafts

10 and 15 move relative to one another within an outer sleeve 15' serving as hearing and guide. At their tops the shafts are provided with a device, such as ears 16 and 17 for fixing to the organs of the machine that produce their respective movements.

FIGURES 4 to 13 show the different phases of the stitch. The table board of the machine is 20 with a mouth 21 and the material 22 to be sewn is held by pressure foot 23. The sewing thread 24 presenting a loose end underneath the table already has produced a stitch 25 on top and another stitch 26 at the bottom. The pincers or

clamps

27 and 28 are in the shape of a pitchfork, for the purpose of holding the thread as described below.

FIGURE 4 shows the position of the elements when needle 11 is ready to again pierce the material after having produced an underneath stitch 26 and the material has been moved forward.

FIGURE 5 shows the needle after piercing the material to a maximum inferior position drawing two threads. Next, the needle partially retreats to an intermediate height, by which action the thread loosens, forming two lateral loops 29 (FIGURE 6). Next, the upper and

lower forks

27 and 28 advance with fork 27 introducing itself into the loops, while the fork 28 passes underneath the thread thereby joining and forming pincers or a clamp which holds the thread on both sides of the needle as shown in FIGURE 7.

In this position the mechanism that displaces the tongue 14 is activated, leaving the eye of the needle open, as

shown in FIGURE 7. Following which, the pincers that hold the thread, still closed, are moved (FIGURE 8) withdrawing the thread from the eye, thus unthreading the needle which retreatsupwardly, at the same time closing the tongue 14 (FIGURE 9).

After this operation, the lateral hook 30 enters into action, and while the thread is still held by the pincers, the hook is introduced into the loop, into the part corresponding to the loose end, pulling the thread as represented in FIGURE 9, drawing it through the material and leaving only one thread which forms the upper stitch 31.

Next, the material advances a space corresponding to the next stitch (FIGURE 10) and the unthreaded needle again pierces, the tongue opens, the needle eye resting at the same level as the portion of thread held by the pincers (FIGURE 11) which retreat introducing the thread into the eye after which the pincers unclasp, dropping the thread while the tongue closes, leaving the needle threaded once again (FIGURE 12). The needle retreats upwardly forming the stitch 32 on the underside of the material, as shown by FIGURE 13, and now the elements are in position to produce a new forward movement of the material,

so as to return to the position represented by FIGURE 4,.

after having obtained two new stitches, one on top and the other underneath.

In FIGURES 14, 15 and 16 there is shown one form of means for actuating the

forks

27 and 28. In these figures the

forks

27 and 28 are indicated at 58 and 59.

The pincers are formed by two

arms

50, 51, articulated on a common shaft 52 which is mounted on the

lever

53, 54 that is rotatively mounted on the shaft 55 fixed to the framework of the machine.

The

pincer arms

50, 51 are prolonged at the rear side of the shaft 52 and cooperate with a spring 56 which tends to keep them together, and with an eccentric 57 on shaft 57' that separates them. It is understood that the

extremities

58, 59 which are the parts of the

arms

50, 51 that make contact, form superimposed forks, the space between prongs being sufiicient for the needle to pass.

The lower extremity 54 of the

lever

53, 54 cooperates with the eccentric 60 on shaft 60' and with the spring 61 which holds lever 54- against said eccentric.

The

lever

53, 54 is oscillated by the eccentric 60 in consequence of which the

forks

58, 59 draw near to or are separated from the plane in which the needle 62 moves.

The eccentric 57 opens and closes the pincers and this eccentric can serve also as a guide for the advance and return movements of the pincers.

In FIGURES 14, 15 and 16, the needle eye opens on the front side of the pincers.

In FIGURE 14 the pincers are at rest in open position, and then first of all the eccentric 60 is actuated to allow the pincers to embrace the needle and the thread, while the eccentric 57 is actuated to allow the spring 56 to close the pincers. The thread is held fixed at two points at both sides of the needle and very close together (FIGURE 15).

Immediately afterwards (FIGURE 16), the pincers that hold the thread fixed are retired while the needle returns to its upper position.

These are the essential movements. After the position (FIGURE 16), the same positions are repeated but in inverse order, that is to say, the next position is (FIGURE 15) in which position the needle is again thrust through the fabric, the pincers advance and release the thread and then return is made to the position of FIGURE 14 in which position the open pincers have' been returned to their rest position and the needle with the thread moves to the upper positionto initiate the cycle once again.

In FIGURE 17 the means for operating the various elements constituting the invention are shown diagrammatically. Cams 65a and 65b are fixed to the shaft 65' rotated by the main shaft of the machine. The cam 65a operates the shaft 10 and the spring 66 fixed at one end to a stationary part of the machine holds the shaft 10 in contact with such cam while the cam 65b operates the shaft 15 which is maintained in contact with the cam 65b by the spring 67.

A bevel gear transmission indicated generally at 69 is driven by the shaft 69' to rotate 68' upon which the cam 68 is mounted which cooperates with the presser foot 23 in order to operate the same.

With regard to the operation of the

clamps

58 and 59, this is accomplished as above described by the cam 57 upon the shaft 57' and the cam 60 upon the shaft 60. The hook member 30 is operated in proper sequence by the cam '70 fixed upon the shaft 70' and is maintained in contact therewith by the spring 71. All of the

shafts

65, 69', 57', 60 and 70 are operated from the main shaft of the sewing machine in properly timed sequence to accomplish the operations above described.

This process and apparatus produces a stitching system similar to hand work, but, although because of its complex movements it cannot reach the speed of ordinary seams, given its special application, this method and apparatus represents a considerable advantage, owing to its rapidity, uniformity and perfect finish.

I claim:

1. A sewing system for alternate stitchings on both sides of a material comprising threading a needle with a single thread, piercing said material with said threaded needle, withdrawing said threaded needle part way from said material so that the two parallel portions of the thread retained by the friction with the material form two lateral loops at both sides of the needles eye below said material, then unthreading the needle, then withdrawing the loops away from the needle, then withdrawing from the material the empty needle and pulling out the free end of the thread, drawing it through the stitch made until the end comes loose thereby forming stitch from one thread, moving the material forward, then again piercing the material with the empty needle for the next stitch, then threading the needle on the underside of the material with just the portion of the loose thread corresponding to the precedent loops, and finally drawing up the needle to the top, pulling up the loop thus forming two stitches respectively on both sides of the material.

2. A sewing system as set forth in claim 1 wherein said displacement of the two lateral loops formed at the bottom of the material is accomplished by clamping the thread by means of pincers at both sides of the needle and holding said thread during the subsequent steps of unthreading and threading of the needle.

3. A mechanism for threading and unthreading the needles of sewing machines comprising a needle having two semi-circular cross sectional shafts in parallel juxtaposition, a supporting sleeve common to said two shafts in which said shafts are longitudinally slidably guided, one of said shafts having a sharp point and an open eye on one of its sides, the other shaft having a tongue to cover said open eye to effect the opening and closing of said eye in combination with amember located at the underside of a material being sewed, said last named member comprising movable pincers having two jaws with forked ends to clamp the needle thread temporarily at points on each side of said eye, the thread being held by said pincers during the unthreading and subsequent threading of the needle.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 8/54 Swingle 112-l70 10/14 Lipe 1l2223 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

Claims

1. A SEWING SYSTEM FOR ALTERNATE STITCHINGS ON BOTH SIDES OF A MATERIAL COMPRISING THREADING A NEEDLE WITH A SINGLE THREAD, PIERCING SAID MATERIAL WITH SAID THREADED NEEDLE, WITHDRAWING SAID THREADED NEEDLE PART WAY FROM SAID MATERIAL SO THAT THE TWO PARALLEL PORTIONS OF THE THREAD RETAINED BY THE FRICTION WITH THE MATERIAL FORM TWO LATERAL LOOPS AT BOTH SIDES OF THE NEEDLE''S EYE BELOW SAID MATERIAL, THEN UNTHREADING THE NEEDLE, THEN WITHDRAWING THE LOOPS AWAY FROM THE NEEDLE, THEN WITHDRAWING FROM THE MATERIAL THE EMPTY NEEDLE AND PULLING OUT THE FREE END OF THE THREAD, DRAWING IT THROUGH THE STITCH MADE UNTIL THE END COMES LOOSE THEREBY FORMING STITCH FROM ONE THREAD, MOVING THE MATERIAL FORWARD, THEN AGAIN PIERCING THE MATERIAL WITH THE EMPTY NEEDLE FOR THE NEXT STITCH, THEN THREADING THE NEEDLE ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE MATERIAL WITH JUST THE PORTION OF THE LOOSE THREAD CORRESPONDING TO THE PRECEDENT LOOPS, AND FINALLY DRAWING UP THE NEEDLE TO THE TOP, PULLING UP THE LOOP THUS FORMING TWO STITCHES RESPECTIVELY ON BOTH SIDES OF THE MATERIAL.