US3163139A

US3163139A - Method for sewing a waist band or the like onto a garment

Info

Publication number: US3163139A
Application number: US229667A
Authority: US
Inventors: Hedegaard Kristen
Original assignee: GM Pfaff AG
Current assignee: GM Pfaff AG
Priority date: 1961-10-14
Filing date: 1962-10-10
Publication date: 1964-12-29
Anticipated expiration: 1981-12-29
Also published as: GB966650A; DE1410796A1

Description

Dec. 29, 1964 K HEDEGAARD 3,163,139

METHOD FR SEWING A WAIST BAND OR THE LIKE ONTO A GARMENT Filed Oct. 10, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENI'OR Kfl/JTf/V 7 9 4 Dec. 29, 1964 K. HEDEGAARD 3,163,139

METHOD FOR SEWING A WAIST BAND OR THE LIKE ONTO A GARMENT Filed Oct. 10, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.5

BY M 4 United States Patent O 3,163,13 'METHUB FOR SEWING A WAIST BAND QR THE LIKE (INTO A GARMENT Kristen Hedegaard, Gentofte, Denmark, assignor to G. M. Pfafi A.G., Kaiserslautern, Pfalz, Germany Filed Get. 10, I962, Ser. No. 229,667 Claims priority, application Germany, st. 14, 1961, P 28,041 1 Claim. (Ci. 112-262) The present invention relates to a method for sewing a waist band or similar component onto a garment and to apparatus and means for carrying out this method. The band with which we are concerned here is of the type which comprises a band strip and a lining for this strip, where on the finished garment the seams are disposed inside the band in contradistinction to bands where the band seams of finished garments are disposed visibly upon the surface of the material.

It was cutomary heretofore to sew such a band on a sewing machine having only a single needle. This required a series of time-consuming working operations. First the turned over projection of the band had to be circumsewed at the edges. Thereupon the upper border of the band strip was sewed together with that of the lining strip for the hand. Then in a further operation the lower edge of the band strip was sewn onto the upper edge of the garment. After turning over the forward end and folding as well as ironing the band thus far sewn, the lining for thisband in strip form was sewn onto the band.

In accordance with the invention a method is provided which makes it possible with the use of a post sewing machine having two needles to overcome the aforementioned shortcomings and to sew in a shorter period of time an attractive looking band, with the seams concealed in the interior thereof, onto a partly completed garment. In accordance with the invention this is accomplished in that after sewing together the forward edges of the band strip and of the lining strip for the band, first the lateral edges of the band strip are sewn together on a turned over length of band strip corresponding to the band projection or extension by means of a double needle post sewing machine having a material passage aperture between the stitch forming tools, and then the upper edge of the garment and the upper edge of the lining strip for the band are simultaneously sewn together with the band strip, one with one needle and the other with the other needle of the machine, whereupon the band lining strip is sewn on in a known manner upon reversing the band extension by means of a seam extending in the fold between the band strip and the garment.

Accordingly the upper edge of the garment and the upper edge of the band lining strip are each to be sewn onto an edge of the band strip in a single operation, so that overturning of the parts of material is possible. This requires that the garment and the band lining strip are guided through between the hooks or loopers of the machine while the upper edges of the garment and of the band lining strip are sewn together with the band strip as they are turned outwardly at an angle of approximately 90.

For carrying out the method a double needle post sewing machine is employed which has two looper or hook posts arranged at a distance from one another symmetrically with respect to the center of the needle bar, which accommodate the feeding tools and the stitch forming tools.

Further features and objects of the invention and details of the advantages obtained thereby will become aparent from the following description of the accompany- "ice ing drawings illustrating individual method steps and of an example also illustrated in the drawings for the construction of a suitable device for carrying out the method. In the drawings,

FIG. 1 is a perspective illustration of the post sewing machine provided with the device for carying out the new method;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the device drawn to an enlarged scale showing details of the sewing tools and of the material feeding tools. For better visibility one band or strip feeding apparatus has been omitted and the other is shown moved aside.

FIG. 3 is a perspective illustration of one part of the back of the machine with details of the roller feeding device;

FIG. 4 is a perspective illustration of the turned over band strip sewn along the lateral edges, at the forward edge of which the lining strip is sewn on perpendicularly to its longitudinal extent;

FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIG. 4 where the border edge of the garment is inserted between the turned over band-strip portions;

FIG. 6 is a view similar to FIG. 5 with the lining placed thereon;

FIG. 6a is a perspective view of the completed band in accordance with FIG. 6;

FIG. 7 is a view similar to FIG. 5 with the band strip additionally laid on as it is sewn along in the production of a so-called tunnel band;

FIG. 8 is a perspective illustration of the completed and reversed tunnel band, and

' FIG. 9 is a section along lines IX-IX of FIG. 8.

On the base plate 1 of the sewing machine a standard 2 is mounted from which extends the machine arm 3 I shaft/7 which is horizontally journallel in the machine arm 3, so that the needle bar oscillator 6 is enabled to effect oscillatory movements in a plane disposed per pendicularly to the longitudinal extent of the arm 3.

The needle bar 5 is provided with a needle support 8 which carries the needles 9 which are secured thereto. The presser bar 10 journalled in the head 4 has secured thereto the balancing presser foot 11. This member has three soles 12, 13, 14 which are vertically movable. The two soles 12 and 14 are linked in a manner known per se, but not illustrated, to a double armed balancing lever, which means that they are movable independently of one another.

In a recess 15 in the base plate 1 the left post 16 is mounted and at a distance therefrom the right post 17, both symmetric with respect to the needle bar center. The needles 9 cooperate for forming double or lock stitches with the horizontally rotating hooks or loopers (not shown) arranged in the two posts.

The work blank is fed by a compound needle and bottom feed arangement at the stitch formation location. At the same time the needles 9 and the material feed dogs 22, 23, which extend from slots 20, 21 provided in the

stitch plates

18 and 19, effect coordinated movements in the direction of feed.

The material feeding is aided by a known roller feeding device. The carrier 24 of this device is secured behind the head 4 of the machine. The carrier bar 25 is journalled in a bore of the support or carrier 24 and in a sleeve 26 threadedly received in the carrier 24. The sleeve 26 serves for tensioning a pressure spring 28 which extends between the lifting member 27 and the sleeve 26 secured to the carrier bar. The lifting member 27 is provided with a lateral bridge, member 29 which extends into the groove 30 of the carrier 24 and prevents turning of the carrier bar 25.

Between the legs of the supporting yoke 31 secured to the lower end of the. carrier bar 25 the feeding roller 33 is secured to the shaft 32 rotatably journalled in bores of the supporting yoke 31. At one end of the shaft 32 extending from the supporting yoke 31 is secured the disk 34 and at the other end the step setting mechanism 35. The drive of the feed roller 33 is effected by means of the cam 37 encompassed by the cam bar 36 and secured upon the arm shaft 7, byway of the rocking lever 40 linked to cam bar 36 and clamped onto shaft 39 rotatably journalled on the rigid sleeve 38, and by way of the rocking lever 41 secured to the other end of the shaft 39 and the connecting bar 42 linked at one end to the latter and at the other end to the crank arm of the step setting mechanism 35.

A double armed compensating lever 45 is mounted for pivotal movement about the bearing stud 44 on an angular member 43 secured to the base for the posts, and bars 48 having angular lugs 47 are linked to the end of said lever 45 by means of trunnion screws 46. Rollers 49' are rotatably mounted on the angular members 47. For parallel guidance the bars 48 are provided with longitudinal slots 50 through which extend trunnion screws 51 which are threadedly received in the posts 16, 17. The bars 48 which carry the rollers 49 are vertically movable in unison by means of this arrangement.

The band entrance device 52 with the angular support 53 which is provided for feeding in the hand strip 65 is secured to the front ofthe head 4 of the machine for pivotal movement about the trunnion screw 54.

For feeding in the lining strip 67 a second band entrance device 55 is provided, This comprises a support 56 secured to the left post 16 and provided with vertical boresinwhich a support rod 57'is rotatably received and secured against axial; displacement by means of two setting rings 58. Feed plates 59, 60 which are closed at the bottom are also. secured to the support rod 57. Finally a clamping member 61 is provided upon the support rod 57 inwhich is secured theangular support 62 having a turning plate 63 mounted thereon.

In order; to avoid that the abutting edges of the band strip 64 and; of the liningstrip 67 would have to be sewn together by handon the inside of the completed garment 66, a band strip- 64'is suitably utilized in the method in accordance with the invention, which is already partly sewn on at its forward edge 65b onto the forward edge 67a of the; lining strip 67in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal extent of the strip. It is furthermore expeditious to adapt the length of the two

strips

64 and 67 to thelength of the circumference of the garment 66 while at the sametime taking into account the length of the band extension 65. The band strip 64 and the lining strip 67' may, however, also be fed to the stitch formation locations. by means of rollers.

Theflndiyidual steps of the method for sewing the band onto the garment are carried out in accordance with the invention as follows:

First the lateral edges 65a of the band strip 64 turned over tocorrespond tothe length of the baud extension 65 aresewntogether (FIG. 4). Thereupon, if strip portions are used which have already been cut to size, the remaining lengths of the band strip 64 and of the appertainingliningstrip 67 are fed backwardly into the

band entrance device

52, 55. One needle of the two needle-sewing machine-then sews the upper edge of the garment 66 onto the lower edge of the band strip 64, while the second needle sews the upper edge of the lining strip 67 onto the upper edge of the band strip 64. In thisconnection the border of the lining strip 67 is turned over outwardly through an angle of approximately 90 4 with the aid of the turnover plate 63. The border of the garment 66 is turned over manually. The garment 66 as well as the lining strip 6'7 are fed in between the two posts 16 and 17 as this step of the operation is carried out. In this manner the sewing of the band is completed up to the terminal seam.

When the two

strips

64 and 67 which are to be placed into the two

band entrance devices

52, 55 are pulled from endless rolls of strip, then the forward edge of the band strip 64 is turned over to an extent of approximately /5 to /5 inch. Then a length of band strip corresponding to the band extension 65 is folded under, and the lateral edges 65a are sewn together (FIG. 4).

The next step of operation is the feeding and sewing in of the edge of the garment 66 between the turned over layers of the band extension 65 and the lower edge of the band strip 64. Thereupon the band lining strip 67 placed into the band entrance device 55 is fed in with an edge 6711 turned over manually and downwardly to abut the butt edge of the band strip 64 (FIG. 5) and is sewn onto the upper edge of the band strip 64.

in this manner the sewing of the band is completed up to the terminal edge, whereby the edge of the lining strip 67 is turned over outwardly by means of the turnover plate 63, and the edge of the garment 66 is turned over manually, each through an angle of approximately 96, and the garment 66 as well as the lining strip 67 are guided through between the two posts 16 and 17. The strip lining 68 which is fed in by hand is sewn in at the proper location between the lining strip 67 and band strip 64 (FIG. 6). Finally the band strip 64 and the lining strip 67 are cut off at the end of the garment 66.

If a band of the type generally known as a tunnel band is to be sewn (FIGS. '7, 8), then it is possible to sew in between the band strip 64 on the one side and the garment 66 as Well as the lining strip 67 on the other side at the locations provided therefor, during the sewing on of the garment 66 as well as of the lining strip 67, a further band strip 65? onto the band strip 64 with the ends turned over upwardly.

Upon turning over the band extension 65 and proper ironing of the band, the lining strip 67 is sewn from the outside in a known manner on a normal straight stitch sewing machine by means of a seam 70 in the fold between band strip 64 and garment 66 (FIG. 9). Thereupon the outer border of the terminal strip of the garment 66 with the strip lining 68 are sewn together in a manner not illustrated, with the outer sides resting against each other. The strip lining 68 is turned over and sewn on the garment 66 parallel to and at a distance with respect to the outer edge.

Having now described my invention with reference to the new method provided thereby and illustrated in the drawings and with reference to the apparatus employed for carrying out said method, I do not wish to be limited thereto, but What I desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States is set forth in the appended claim.

I claim:

Method for sewing a waist band comprising a band strip and a lining strip onto a garment with the seams disposed inside the band, said method comprising the steps of partly sewing together on a straight stitch sewing machine abutting forward edge of the band strip and of the lining strip transversely of the longitudinal extent of said band and said lining strip, manually turning over a length of the band strip to form a band extension and a free band strip portion having an upper edge and a lower edge, sewing together the lateral edges of the band extension thus formed on a double needle post sewing machine having an aperture for the passage of material between the stitch forming tools on the posts, placing the upper edge of a garment and the upper edge of the lining strip below the free band strip portion, said edges of the garment and the lining strip facing away from each other and being in alignment with the respective edges of the band strip, sewing simultaneously with the double needle post sewing machine the lower edge of the band strip onto the upper edge of the garment with one needle and the upper edge of the band stn'p onto the upper edge of a lining strip with the other needle, then turning said band extension inside out, folding the lining strip over the sewn component edge parts of garment, lining strip and band strip, and then sewing the lining strip on a straight stitch sewing machine onto the References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS Molyneux 112-262 Stauss 2-236 Myers 112-260 Engman et a1 2-236 Wesson 112-260 Schweich 112-262 garment with a seam in the fold between the band strip 10 JORDAN FRANKLIN Primary Examiner DAVID I. WILLIAMOWSKY, Examiner.

and the garment.