US2893013A - Necktie manufacture - Google Patents

Description

July 7, 1959 N MILLER l 2,893,013

NECKTIE MANUFACTURE Filed April 9, 195e v 2 sheets-sheet 2 FIG. 3. FIGA. FIG. 5. Fle

FIG. IO. FIG 9 v 2Q /36 a? H39/35 3e 25 34 35 ,23 l:as 23 33 INVENTOR. NATHANIEL MILLER AroR/VEY Fla-7.

2,893,013 NECKTIE MANUFACTURE Nathaniel Miller, Baltimore, Md. Application April 9, 1956, serial No. 576,853',y

Y s Claims. (ci. 2146) 5 j This invention relates to necktie manufacturing and it is more particularly yconcerned with neckties of the multiple fold type.

A multiple fold necktie, typically, comprises essentially ablank of cloth folded lengthwise to provide four layers of material and stitches to hold the tie in shape.-

Such anecktie has numerous advantages over other. conventional types of neckties. In the rst place, it requires no lining, because it has an adequate build up of body ,by virtue of the multiple f olds, even more than some types of neckties that are provided with linings. Such a monomaterial necktie is desirable falsobecause of the fact that it` can be Washed or cleaned without distortion.

v f Neckties lwhich, utilize a lining are subject to `dilferential shrinking as between the lining and the remaining part of the necktie, because different materials have different coei'lcients of shrinkage `This may, and frequently does,

occur during washing and/ orrdry cleaning operations. It may also resultfromhumid atmospheric conditions. It is not uncommon to see a necktie out of shape that has never Abeen cleaned or washed, simply because of the differential shrinkage which occurred as between the lining and the necktie material on a humid day. .v

VOne attempt to correct this undesirable situation was to make a necktie of a polyester material and use a lining for vit that was also of a, polyester material. However,

even in such cases wheresome dilferences might exist between the lining and the body materials of the necktie, such as in the weave, the type of polyester material, etc., some differential shrinkage sometimes occurs.;.vl

However, neckties made in accordance with the present invention have all their parts of exactly the same material and, therefore, nopossibility of differential shrinkage can take place, regardless of what is used to clean the neckties or how many times they are cleaned or what the humidity conditions maybe. `The shrinkage is absolutely uniform throughout. v

, Multiple ever,` yhave not foundjcomplete favor heretofore in.' the' trade -becausejof their ,high costjof manufacture. Priorto the present invention, such neckties were manufactured by rst forming a blank, then creasing the blank along three longitudinallines, spaced from eachother, then folding the blank along ythe creased lines, applying stitches, customarily barstitclies, 'andreversingthe 'tubular form thus de\lreloped.Aw This general method of manufacture is slowand expensive because -of the time consuming re'- quirement to apply the longitudinal creases to each blank. In some cases, machines have been developed for applying these creases to a multiple number of blanks, but they usually are able to handle only about 6 to 12 blanks at a time, being on the order of a steam pressing apparatus with special crease-forming dies. See U.S. Patent No. 2,441,654. However, the creases are not always uniform as among the different blanks of a group because of the layers of material placed in the dies, and the use of the machine in other respects involves many other variations among the blanks which, in addition to the high cost of ply mono-material neckties of this type, how` 2,893,013 Patented July 7, 1959 "icc the creasing machine as a tool, makes it an unsatisfactory operation. The general object of the present invention s the provision of a method of manufacturing multiple fold monomaterial neckties of the type mentioned which is simple, eihcient, and" which Idoes'not yrequire the use of any special machinery, other than that generally used in the clothing manufacturing industry. f i Another object of the invention is the provision of such arnethod which requires no precreasing of the blanks from which the neckties are made, and hence requires none of the expensive creasing machinery heretofore used. A vstill further object of the invention is the provision ofl'sucha method which is not limited by such bottle necks as creasing operations and others incident thereto, such as the special handling required therefor. v

These and other objects, features, and advantages of the rinvention will appear more fully from the following description considered together with the accompanying drawing.

In the drawing:

Fig. l is a top plan view of a cutting table, partly broken aww/containing a pileof sheets of fabric overlayed bya cutting and drilling pattern in accordance with the invention.

Fig'. 2 is a yside elevational view, also partly in section, f :the same cutting table in conjunction with a drilling tool thatmaybeused" in the method of this invention.

l Fig'. 3 is a fragmentary sectional view of a portion of thesame cutting'table on a somewhat larger Scale.

Fig. 4 is a plan View of two complementary blank seotions resulting from the cutting and drilling operations, joined together to form `a complete two-piece blank.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a complete blank after it has been folded along the longitudinal center and secured in accordance with this invention.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a completed necktie resulting from a reversing of the sewed blank of Fig. 5.

Fig; 7 is a rear face view of a portion of the larger end of the completed necktie, partly broken away.

Fig. 8 is a rear face view of a portion ofthe smaller end of the completed necktie, partly broken away.

. Fig. 9 is-a section along the line 9 9 of Fig. 6 on a larger scale.

Fig. 10 is a section along the line 10--10 of Fig. 5 on atlarger scale.

Referring with more particularity to the drawing in which like numerals designate like parts, the method of this invention comprises, generally, the steps of rst layin'g up a number of sheets of fabric 11 from which a number of neckties are to be made, on a cutting table 12. The sheets of fabric may number as many as 250 to 400 or more, as is customaryr on cutting tables of the clothing industry generally.- v

.-Overlayed onthe pile of sheets is a pattern or templet y' 13 containing the cutting lines 14 for forming the large end blank section pattern 15, and cutting lines 16 for-ming the small end blank section pattern 17. The templet 13 also., contains, in raccordance with this invention, lines of dots 18 and 19 for drilling index holes, hereinafter more fully explained.

The holes are. preferably drilled lirst before the blanks.

are; cutout along thelines 14'and 16, because it is easier to maintain the larger sheets of fabric in alignment for this purpose than the smaller blank pieces. However, it is to be understood that either operation may be performed rst within the scope of this invention. The holes are drilled completely through the pile of fabric sheets by an electric drill 20 having as its drill element a long thin needle 21. This needle may be solid for those types of fabric which retain clearly and visibly the shape of a hole drilled therein. However, there are other types of fabrics which, because of their compositions, weave, texture, design, or for other reasons, do not retain such a clear and visible hole after drilling, and in such cases, the needle, as shown in the drawing, Should bo hollow with an outlet 2z near the bottom for the discharge of a fluid as the needle passes throughl the fabric pile. The Afluid contains in solution or suspen- Sion any of tho numerous known typos of` material which are luminous under ultraviolet light, or` Vas it is, sometimes called, black light, but which are non-luminous under ordinary sunlight. This type of drill and liquid materials used therewith are in generall use in the cloth-Y ing industry. Such a drill is,V manufactured and sold under the name Drill-Marker by Beaver Cloth Cutting Machines, Inc., ofA New York, N Y., and is described in U.S. Patent No. 2,778,297. Fluorescent liquids suitable for use therewith are well known, a few of which are described in U.S-.'Patents Nos. 2,056,809, 2,482,450 and 2,267,758.

The resulting holes` 23 and 24- thus drilledY are along lines in the formed Iblank sections 25. and 26, respectively, and they are approximately 1A. the distance from one o f the lateral edges thereof.

i Between the top of the table 12 and the lowermost layer or sheet of cloth 27 of the pile 11;, a piece of cardboard 2 8 is interposed having aV thickness equal to at least the distance between the point 29 of the needle and the outlet 22, so that the bottommost sheets of fabric will be treated with the fluid as Well as the. others.

After the holes 23 and24 have been drilled, the blank sections are cut out with any ordinary cloth cutting tool (not shown) which is well known in thef clothing manufacturing art. Complementary blank sections 25 and 26 are then sewed together at their inner ends 30 and 31 to forma complete two-piece blank 32. It is tobe understood, however, that the invention is equally applicable to those cases where complete one-piece blanks` are initially cut fromthe fabric materials.

The complete blank 32.is then folded in half longia tudinally with its outer longitudinal edges 33 and 34 in registry, the fold line being indicated by the numeral 35.

The two superimposedhalves are then sewed-.together with a line kof stitching 36 indexed'byl the lines ofy drilled holes 23 and 2,4;Wl1ich fall in contiguous relation to eachotherwhen theY two blank sections are sewed'together, along the` line of holes or on either side thereof, but preferablyy on the sidethereoffacing thefold line35. If the holes cannot be distinguished otherwise, they may be placed under ultra-violet lightduring ,the .sewing operation, whereupon they will become brilliantly. luminescent.

Thus, a tube is formedwith the righ side` of the material on the inside of the tube. ByV then merely re-r versing the tube th-us formed, that is, turning it inside out, 'a common procedure used in the. necktie manifacturing industry, with the usual necktie reversing apparatus` (not shown, but see U.S. Patent No.. 2,378,671), the'necktie is completed. It may thenibe-pressed, labeled, and boxed in accordance with the usual prac= tice.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. The method of manufacturingy a multiplicityl of multiple fold necktiesV comprising layingup va stack ofv cloth sheets from which the neckties are to be made,

v each sheet of the stack being of a size to. itself yield a plurality of neckties, placing on top of thevstack a pat tern of guide lines delineating the boundariesof elongated complementary blank sections from which the neckties are to be made and reference marks within the boundaries of the sections, .said reference marks each being disposed in a line longitudinally of a blank section and substantially one-fourth the distance between the longitudinal edges of the section, piercing the entire stack of sheets simultaneously with rows of holes beneath said reference marks, cutting the entire pile of sheets simultaneously along lines below the said guide lines to separateY the blank sections with the pierced holes therethrough, then sewing together complementary blank sections to form in each case a complete elongated necktie blank, folding each complete blank in half lengthwise with the longitudinal edges thereof in substantial registry and securing the folded halves together with stitches extending longitudinally along a line adjacent the pierced holes to form a tubular piece with exterior longitudinal flaps, and then reversing the resulting tubular piece, thereby-disposing the said flaps on the interior of the tubular piece `and providing` a necktie with multiple folds.

2. A method*` as defined by claim lin which the step ofpiercing the sheets with-holes is effected prior to the step of cutting the sheets along lines below the guide lines, wherebyrelative displacement of the sections during thefpiercing, operation is substantially obviated.

3., The method as defined by claim 1v in which the holes are-formedin the sheets by drilling and a luminousliquidsubstance is deposited in each hole simultaneously with the dr-illingvthereof.

4. The methodl as defined byl claimy 3 in which the luminous` materialis luminous under a special kind of light only,- otherthansunlight, andthe step of sewing the folded halvesv of the blank together is performed in thepresence of suchl special light.

- 5.- The method of manufacturing a multiplicity of multiple fold neckties comprising laying up a stack of clothrsheets from which the neckties are to be made, each-sheet offthe stack being of a size to itself yield a plurality'ofl neckties, placing on top of the stack a pattern ofguide linesdelineating the boundaries of elongated blanks from which the neckties are to be made and-reference marks within the boundaries ofthe blanks, said-referenceamarks each being disposed in a line longitudinally. ofVv as blankv andV substantially one-fourth the distance between the longitudinal edges of the blank, piercing theY entire stack of sheets simultaneously with rows of holes-beneath said reference marks, cutting the entirepile of-sheets simultaneously along lines below the said-guidellinesrto separate the blanks with the pierced holestherethrough, folding each blank in half lengthwise` with thevlongitudinal edgesthereof in substantial registry and securing the folded halves together with stitches extending longitudinally along a line adjacent the pierced holes to form a tubular piece with exterior longitudinal flaps, andthenvreversing theresulting tubularpiece, thereby disposing the saidaps on the interior ofthe tubular piece and providing anecktie with multiple-folds. l

References .Cited in the file. of this patent UNITED ySTATES PATENTS

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