US281172A

US281172A - Albert aronsof

Info

Publication number: US281172A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1883-07-10
Anticipated expiration: 1900-07-10

Description

(No Model.)

A. ARONSON.

' FABRIC. No. 281,172.. Patented July 10,1883.

INVENTOR I UNIT-ED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of- Letters Patent No. 281,172,-da.ted July 10, 1883.

Application fill-d May 18. 188i (No model.)

To all? whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT Anonsox, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Fabrics; and l do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof.

By my invention I am enabled to furnislrto the laboring classes, and all others who wear comparatively cheap clothing, muchbctterfitting, mater, and cheaper articles than heretofore made.

Prior to my invention garments composed of more than one thickness of cloth-such, for

instance, as lined garments, shi itbosoms, &c.- have been made by first cutting from the piece of goods of which the garment is to be made, and which I will call the face goods, to distinguish it from the lining or backing, the various parts needful to compose the complete .garinent, then cut-ting from the lining or backing material such portions as were needful to line or back the face-cloth with. Then the appropriate lining or backing pieces were bested or sewed to the other or face-cloth pieces, and then these pieces so united were together finally sewed up into the completed garment. By this method the cloth must be cut out by itself, also the lining or backing by itself. They must then be busted or sewed to each other, and the several parts then sewed together to form the complete garment. Moreover, the style and fitof garments thus made are not apt to be good after ashort use, because the cloth and lining, being united at the edges only, and shrinking or stretching unevenly, form wrinkles; and the garment is also, because of the difference in shrinking, pulled out of shape. It is also much more bulky when the face-cloth and lining or backing are separate, and also any particles of shoddyso called-which rub off from low-price goods during usage collect about the lower parts of the garment between the lining and the facecloth, and are unsightly and uncomfortable.

My invention consists in uniting the facecloth to the lining or by means of an adhesive substance applied to portions only of their meeting surliiccs while they are both in the pieccund priorto cut! ing. This may be done by applying to one side of the lining or backing material, and tothe parts thereof only through or near which the line of the cut will run, a suitably-pro;saved :ullu-sh'e substance, many of which substances arenowwcll known and require no description by me. This may be applied by a suitably-cut stencil. or, prefen bly, by a pasting-cylinder having a raised portion on it conforming to the places on the cloth where the paste is to boapplied, which cylinder shall rerolve against the paste-dis- .t-ributing roller, as usual in such devices, and when the lining or backing material has been thus pasted, then bring this pasted side into contact, under some slight pressure, with the face-cloth, so that the lining or backing will adhere to the face-cloth. right and a wrong side,the lining will of course be applied to the wrong side,

Instead of the adhesive substance being applied to those parts only through which the line or cut may run, it may be applied in checker-boa rd m'plaidliko strips on the cloth. Thus the pasted portions will confine the two pieces together, and yet air can freely pass through the garment, thus making the same comfortable and healthful. I prefer this meth 0d of applying the adhesive substance for the reasons hereinafter stated.

For the better illustration of this invention I have shown in the drawings, at a a a a, &c., Figure 1, the out-lines of certain parts of garments. The paste, when applied on the line of the cut, will be upon substantially these outline lines. InFig. 21 show, at b b b b, &c., the lines of paste arranged in checker-board or plaid-like fashion. The portion of the cloth covered by the paste when it is applied on the line of the cut, should preferably be wider than when applied in the checker-board manner, so that even if the line of the out should deviate somewhat from the central line of the paste still it will not run out from it.

The application of the adhesive substance may be done at the manufactory when the cloth is made, or afterward by the elothier prior to the cutting of the goods.

The adhesive substance used maybe an in- (Ila-rubber cement, or strips of india-rubber, in which case the pressing-rollers between which the fabrics are passed should be heated so as to melt or soften the cement or iudiarubber, as usual in such cases, that the fabrics-may adhere; or a shellac cement may If the cloth has a be used, and where impenetrability by water is not essential any of the well-known adhesive pastes may be used.

By my invention the face-cloth and the lining, being firmly united to each other, both will be cut out at one operation, thus saving one cutting; and the parts thus cut ont,being already fastened to each other, need not to be basted or sewed together; and when the garment is made, the cloth and the lining being firmly united, the garment will keep its shape and will fit better than if they were not so united. Moreover, the shoddy which comes off from the cloth in any particular square, the adhesive substance being applied in checker-board or plaid-like lines, will not be suflicient to be at all noticeable, and the air can freely pass through the cloth. Therefore the garment will be perfectly ventilated, and consequently more comfortable and healthful to the wearer. I prefer the checker-board or plaid-like method of applying the adhesive substance, because then the accumulation of shoddy is prevented, and also, the two fabrics being j oined together more thoroughly, the fit is better and the garment is less bulky.

My invention is not limited to the uniting of the lining or backing-cloth with the facecloth. By its use two cloths entirely differing in their texture, color, properties, and charo aeteristies may be united. For instance, a cloth capableof taking a dye well may be united to one not so capable, but which has been otherwise ornamented; a lace or openwork fabric upon a backing of some stronger 5 cloth; an altwool upon an all-cotton fabric. This is especially valuable in the manufacture of portieres or curtain stufl's, rugs, tablecloths, and the like.

Having thus described my invention, I 40 claim As a new article of manufacture, doublefaced cloth or stuff for lined garments, consisting of separate pieces of cloth or textile fabric united together by means of an adhesive 5 substance applied to; portions only of their meeting surfaces, the portions of said doublefaccd cloth or stuff for lined garments not in contact with such adhesive substance being composed solely of the separate pieces of 50 cloth or' textile fabric forming the same, substantially as and for the purposes set forth. ALBERT ARONSON.

Witnesses:

PHILLIPS ABBOTT, JOHN J. CAULDWELL.