US276926A - thompson - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet' 1.

D. W. THOMPSON.- COMBINED BUTTON FLY LAP AND STAYING PIECE.

N 276,926. Patented May 1,1883.

Fig.4.

Witnesses: Invefitor:

J hzzz/i/ww N, FEYERS. Phokmulhognpiwn Wahillghll. D. C.

UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID W. THOMPSON, OF ENGLEWOODJLLINOIS. ASSIGNOR OF ONE-THIRD TO MILLER & BINGHAM, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

COMBINED BUTTON-FLY LAP AND STAYING-PIECE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 276,926, dated May 1, 1 883.

ApplicationfiledNovember14,1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, DAVID W. THOMPSON, of Englewood, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Im- 5 provement in Combined Button-Fly Laps and Staying-Pieces for Garment-slits, of which the following is specification.

My invention relates to the manner of forming and attaching to garment slit-openings labor will not be required to apply them.

My invention consists, as will hereinafter be described in detail, in the application of a strip of material having a uniform width and a hem folded or finished edge, whichis folded in two parallel thicknesses by doubling it with its free ends together, andhaving a transverse entrant'fold made in and between the two thicknesses of the strip at its folded end, to receive in each opposite side of the entrant fold and between its two thicknesses of material an opposite side of the garment-slit, in which position the two edges of the strip at each side of the entrant fold are sewed together, the strip thus producing the two exterior fncings of the buttonhole fly, andalso both of theezn terior facings of the button-underlap, with the two thicknesses of the strip below the slit, producing an outside and inside re-enforce to the interior and exterior surfaces of the garmentat that point. I

-Accompanying this specification and forming a part of it are two plates of drawings, containing nine figures illustrating my invention, and in all of which thesaine designation of parts by letter reference are used.

Figure 1 shows theform of the strip adapted to 5 produce my invention when applied according to the process steps hereinafter to be described and shown. Fig.2 illustrates the same form of stripcutincontinuityand rolled. Fig.3shows partof a garment containing a slinwith a dotted 0 line representing the position of a stayingpiece and button-lap formed and located by my such as are formed in the backs and sleeves of shirts, the side-pocket openings of pantaloons,

strip as folded to double it from its free ends, and the manner of the transverse entrant fold in and between the two thicknesses of its 5 5 doubled-end fold, so as to receive between the 7 two thicknesses of each side of the entrant fold one of the sides of the garment-slit for attachment. Fig. 5 shows the strip when folded as indicated at Fig. 4 and applied to a garmentslit by inserting one side of the latter between the two thicknesses of the strip at opposite sides of the entrant fold, with the strip atthe' top of the entrant fold out transversely, soas to make the strip in three pieces. In this illustration a centrally-placed dotted line indicates the position of the intermediatelyplaced side edges of the garment-slit, and a dotted line on each side of the strip designates the position of the stitching used to secure the parts. Fig. 6 shows the parts in the position indicated at Fig. 5 when stitched together on theedges of the strip, the position ofthe intermediately-secured edges and sides of the slit being indicated by a dotted line, with the thickness of thestri p exaggerated to betterillnstrato it, and the strip used being in one continuous piece. Fig. 7 represents a cross section of the attached button-lap and staying-piece and i partof the garment, taken on the line a a; of Fig.131igr8illustrates the completed attachmentof the strip with thebutton-hole fly moved off from its coincidence with the button-underlap to show the edge of the latter, the appearance of the finished parts beingthe same on 8' both sides of the garment. Fig. 9 illustrates in another position the strip cut so as to make the three pieces represented at Fig. 5, and which are produced from the same form of strip by making the outer folded thickness of material 90 in two parts and the inner thickness of the entrant fold in one piece folded back on itself.

The several parts employed and the factors used to connect them are designated by letter reference and described as follows:

The letter A indicates a portion of the strip of material cut from the roll A and this strip is shown as having a uniform width, and upon its edges the hem-fold a. l 1

The letter Gr designates a part ot'agarment, and S S the sides of-a slit formed therein.

To attach the strip A to produce, when applied, my improved button-hole-lap, butprocessof attachment. Fig. 4 illustrates the ton underlap, and staying piece, the strip is .posite sides of the garment-slit, as shown at Fig. 5.

When this has been done the two thicknesses of the strip, thus inclosing at each side the sides of the slit, are stitched through on their edges, as indicated at O O, to secure them as tl1usheld,the parts appearingas shown at Fig. 6, the two thicknesses of the strip below the slit being stitched together on their edges, so as to intermediately include the garmentat that point. \Vhen the strip is used in three pieces instead of one, the pieces have the same iorm and finishas when one piece is used,they

being. folded, as shown at Fig. 4, withthe outer ends of the entrant fold A cut transversely at a a, as shown at Figs. 5 and 9, and whether the strip is used in three pieces or but one the process steps for attachment are the samein eitherinstanee. Thus applied either as one piece or three pieces having the same form and folds, the strip produces the exterior and interior facingsof the button-flyboth the exterior l'acings of the button-underproduced by the ends of the strip below the slit, which are secured to the outer and inner surfaces of the garment at that point, no anchor-seam or cross-seam being required, as in older methods designed for a like purpose.

vAnother advantage results from the use of my invention in the fact that the end of the slit is not made an arbitrary point of attachment that requires exactness and care in cutting or tearing in the slit and a necessary coincidence in length between it and the folds or pieces of the strip used, as is the case with the older methods in use for the same purpose. In applying my invention this care and exactness are unnecessary, for the slit may extend below the bottom of the entrant told in the strip, asindicated at n, Fig. 6, without weakeningthe attachment in the least. The strip from which the piece is cut to form the buttonfly, button-underlap, and stay by my method is folded with its hem-folded edges intermediately placed when attached, and these edges may be hem-folded, as I have shown them, or

made with any equivalent fold or finish upon them;

In a patentgranted to me November 7,1882, for an attachment to garment-slits for the same purpose as that described herein, a piece of material is shown as used having two widths, the wider part of which, by means of a central slit in the piece and a centrally-placed.

longitudinal entrant fold, is adapted to inclosc and secure by means of a gutter-seam thus formed one side of the garment-slit, and so produce in continuity from this double width of the piece, as folded longitudinally, the outer and inner facings of the button-fly lap, and

from the subtending half-width of the piece,

when transversely folded at the bottom of the garment slit and turned up, the outer facing of the underlap. My invention described herein differs from the older method named in the fact that the outer and inner facings of the button-fly lap, and as well the outer and inner facings of the under-lap, are made from a piece ofmaterial having a uniform width, no longitudinal central entrant fold or gutterseam being used, the only entrant fold employed being a transverse one across its width, and not a longitudinal one.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,

.1. In combination with a garment-slit,as't17ip of material made of a uniform width-and with hem-folded or finished edges, and which strip is doubled in thickness at its free ends, having a transverse entrant fold made between the two thicknesses ofits doubled end, with the doubled free ends ofthe strip subtending the bottom of the entrantfold, aud witheach one of the sides of the garment-slit secured between the two thicknesses at each coincidently opposite side of the entrant fold by stitching the edges of the two thicknesses of the latter, so as .to include the said sides of the slit, with the two edges of the double thickness of the strip below the entrant fold 'stitched together, so as to include between them the material of the garment at that point, as and for the purposes herein described.

2. A combined button-hole fly,button-underlap, and bottom stay for a garment-slit, made from a strip of uniform width, with a'hemfolded or finished edge, which strip is doubled,

IIO

with a transverse entrant fold in its folded end,

with its free ends subtending the bottom of the entrant fold, and has secured between the two thieknessesof each one of its sides a coincidently opposite side of the garment-slit by sewing the edges of the double thicknesses of each side of the entrant fold, and with the subtending ends of the strip sewed together upon their edges to include the garment be-

Images