US2746276A - Widened knitted fabric and method of making the same - Google Patents

Widened knitted fabric and method of making the same Download PDF

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US2746276A
US2746276A US199049A US19904950A US2746276A US 2746276 A US2746276 A US 2746276A US 199049 A US199049 A US 199049A US 19904950 A US19904950 A US 19904950A US 2746276 A US2746276 A US 2746276A
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loop
needle
course
yarn
loops
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US199049A
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Otto F Smetana
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PHIL CORD Corp
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PHIL CORD CORP
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B11/00Straight-bar knitting machines with fixed needles
    • D04B11/06Straight-bar knitting machines with fixed needles with provision for narrowing or widening to produce fully-fashioned goods
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03Shape features
    • D10B2403/032Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels

Definitions

  • My invention is a weft knit, selvaged fabric forming a blank of varying width particularly adapted for the manufacture of full-fashioned hosiery, and having one or more widened sections characterized by the outward transfer of an end needle loop at one end only of each of certain courses and by the addition of a sinker loop adjoining the transferred needle-loop.
  • Such transferred needle-loop and sinker loop preferably provide base loops for the subsequent knitting of needle wales lying outwardly from but parallel with the previously knit selvage loops of a previously knit fabric section.
  • My invention also includes the method of forming and transferring to effect widening of such fabric during the knitting thereof on the usual Cotton type of full-fashioned hosiery machine.
  • weft knit fabric is widened by outwardly transferring an end needle-loop at the lead end of a course, viz., adjacent to the yarn lead,
  • the added loop is preferably formed by forming a distinct sinker loop from the yarn lead section which would ordinarily be twisted around the leg of the terminal needle loop at the lead edge of the course. Consequently, one selvage of each widened course of the fabric will contain a juxtaposed plain transferred loop and an added loop, but successive courses will be widened only at opposite selvages.
  • the transferred loop of one selvage is staggered with respect to the transferred loop of .the
  • the added loop in one selvage of oneV course may partly overlay the next course, which may, or may not, have an added loop in the other selvage.
  • the transfer of loops is preferably effected by lace points (Petinet points) mounted at opposite ends of a reciprocable lace rod which may be journalled in bearings of a usual narrowing machine so that the points may be swung downward into active position when the regular narrowing point units are racked outwardly beyond the needle section or may be swung upward into inactive position when the regular narrowing points are to be used in fashioning the stocking.
  • lace points Piert points mounted at opposite ends of a reciprocable lace rod which may be journalled in bearings of a usual narrowing machine so that the points may be swung downward into active position when the regular narrowing point units are racked outwardly beyond the needle section or may be swung upward into inactive position when the regular narrowing points are to be used in fashioning the stocking.
  • the distance between the lace points on the lace rod is greater than the width of the fabric, so that loops along one selvage of the fabric may be transferred outwardly without any interference of the lace point at the opposite ends of the rod with the fabric, and vice versa.
  • the lace points at the opposite ends of the rod may also be used, if desired, in alternation to form lace stitches inward from the selvages to provide ornamental designs in the body of the fabric adjacent to its widened section having fast selvages.
  • the additional loop at the end of a course is preferably vformed on the next traverse of the yarn by bending the that the yarn tube of each carrier is thereby positioned above the second (instead of the first) divider outward from the needle which knits the end needle-loop to be transferred.
  • the main cam shaft is then shifted to narrowing
  • the lead from the transferred loop to the carrier tube had such an angle that the movements of the needles, sinkers and dividers while the main cam shaft is in narrowing position causes the lead to be under the sinkers and dividers and in front of the needle outward from the transferred loop. Hence, the lead will be bent around such outward needle to form a sinker loop upon the next traverse of the yarn carrier to lay a new course.
  • Fig. l is a diagrammatic, perspective Y view of a full-fashioned stocking widened in accordance aymara with my invention forewardly of the heel narrowing;
  • Fig. Zis a diagrammatic, plan View ofA the foot section ⁇ of'fa hosiery blank for making the stocking of Fig. l;
  • Fig. 3 is an enlarged, fragmentary, diagrammatic View of a prtion ofthe blank shownl inFig. 2 within the area indicated by dot and dash lines;
  • Fig. l is a diagrammatic, perspective Y view of a full-fashioned stocking widened in accordance aymara with my invention forewardly of the heel narrowing
  • Fig. Zis a diagrammatic, plan View ofA the foot section ⁇ of'fa hosiery blank for making the stocking of Fig. l
  • Fig. 3 is an enlarged, fragmentary, diagrammatic View of a prtion ofthe blank shownl inFig. 2 within the area indicated
  • FIG. 4l is an enlarged, diagrammatic fragmentary view of selvaged' areas of a'portionl yof a widened section shown in- Fig. 3;-Fig. 5"i ⁇ s' a diagrammatic view of aneedle bar and lace bar of a conventional'fuilfashioned hosiery machine of the Cotton type;
  • Figf is an enlarged, diagrammatic Viewy illustrating the stitchY construction of part of the fabric sections such as shown in Fig. 4,A the lower courses beginning-atabouttheposition indicated-bythe line 6 6 of Fig. 1;-Figr. 7y diagrammatically illustrates movements ⁇ of the carrier stops; yarn carrier-and a lace point and the transfer of?
  • FIG. 8 is a fragmentary, diagrammatic, transverse, sectional view taken approximately on the line 8 8 of Fig. 7 and indicating the laying of a yarn lead'when the yarn carrierismoved outward by movement'of a carrier'stop ⁇ during-a widening cyclegrFig. 9 diagrammatically 'illustrates the layingandV sinker-kinking of a length of yarn to bedrawn through the first widened course to form a second widened course;
  • Fig. 101 diagrammati'cally illustrates the dividing off the yarn laid in Fig. 9
  • Fig. 1l diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after loops have been drawn through the vfirstwid'ened course and certain loops of the second course have beentransferred outwardly
  • Fig. 1'2 diagrammatically illustrates the layingV and sinker-kinking of a further" length of yarn along the loops of the second'widened course
  • Fig. 13 diagrammatically illustrates the dividing ofthe yarn laid in Fig. 12
  • Fig. 14 diagrammatically illus.- trates the fabric after the yarn laid in Fig.
  • Fig. 15 diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after a new course of loops has been drawnV through the fell loops of Fig. 14 and kone of the newly formed loops remote from the selvage has been transferred to form a lace stitch
  • Fig. 16 diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after a new course of' loops has been drawn through the fell loops of Fig.
  • Fig, 17 diagrammatically illustrates they fabric after anew course ofloopslias been drawn and one of them transferred, the fabric and parts being now ready for the repetition of'4 the cycleh begun with the laying of the top course'of'Fig. 7'.
  • I'A have shown in the drawing a womans full-fashioned, single unit stocking having a usual welt W, a diaphanousilegv and instep portion L a reinforced heel portion H, a reinforced foot portion Fand a reinforced' toe portion T.
  • heel section H maybe widened out in any *desired manner to form a pocket and the fabric is then narrowed' between the heel' and sole by a row of'conventional narrowing marks M.
  • the narrowing marksM arev of suchnumber andvv extent as to give a desired tI around the heel andover the' instep, they tend to cause the foot sectii'm'adjacentJ tothe metatarsal arch to be excessivelyY narrow; partic'mlarlyl where the stocking is knit of low denier yarn on a fine gauge machine, anda leadingobject of my invention'is to facilitate the wideningl and ornamentation ofthe foot' fabric forewardly of the heel narrowings so ⁇ as to comfortably' accommodate the spread ofj the foot'adjacentto the metatarsal arch.
  • the reinforced foot" sectionV F forewardly ofthe row of' narrowing marks M, is widened out alternately at its opposite selvrages by steps f1, f2, f3, f4, fij, f7, f8 etc.
  • the evennumbered steps along the rightvhand. selvage are staggered', respectively,
  • ornamental patterns P may be formed inwardlyv of' the respective selvages-bylacestitches p1', p2, p3, p4, p5, p6, p7, p8 etc., extending along, but spaced inwardly any desired distance from the widening steps; such lace stitches preferably extending predominately along a wale at each side of the fabric so as to form parallel lines of lace stitchesV from which the adjacent edges diverge.
  • the stocking blank shown in Figs. l to 4 includes loops forming, inter alia, the wales Wlf to W17" and courses C1 to C8,.the course'Cl beginning forwardly of the courses narrowed by the narrowing marks M.
  • the widening step ⁇ fl at the left of theY footV blank is formed by the transfer of the end needle-loop NL1 of the course C1 from the Wale W11 to the Wale W13 and by the sinker loop SLI which connects the needle loop NL1 with the loop N143 of the course C2.
  • the lace stitch p1 is: formed by thetransfer ofl the needle loop NLS of the course C1l from the wale-W3'to the Wale W5.
  • the widening step f2 at the right hand selvage of the f'oot blank is formed by the transfer of theneedle loop NLZ' ofthe course C2 from the Wale W12v to the Wale W14and by the sinker loop S12 which connects the needle loopNLZ with the loop NIA-of the course C3.
  • the lace stitch. p2 is formed by the transfer of the needle loop NLG of'A the course C2r from the'wale W6 to the Wale-W8.
  • steps f1V and f2 each widen the foot ⁇ fabric adistance of two needles on oppositesides ofthe fabric in alternation, and that each widening step results from theoutward transfer of an end'y needle loop andthe formation of a sinker loop connecting such transferred loop with a needle-loop'y of a'subsequent'course of loops.
  • the courses- C3, C4, C5 and C6V are thenl knitted? of thewidth to which the fabric hasA been widened by.
  • the alternated steps f1' and f2, and such uniforml widthl courses may have-loops thereof transferred for the formation ⁇ of' further elements of the ornamental designsf P.
  • the needle loop-NL7 of the'course C3 may be transferred'from the'.
  • the needle loop NIL84l of the course C4V may be transferred from the Wale W2 to the wale W4;
  • the needle loop'NLQ' off the course C5 ⁇ - may be transferredA from a wale (not shown) to the waleY N1V andthe' needle loop NL10 of the course- Ctmaybeftransferredv from the WaleV W12 tothe wale W14.
  • Such narrowing machines are provided with spindles and ratchet mechanisms for moving the carrier rod stops CS1 and CS2 at desired inten/als, in or out a distance equal to the pitch of two needles so as to cause the stoppage of a yarn carrier YC above a divider (dividing sinker) located outwardly from the needle forming selvage loops of a selvage of the fabric being knit.
  • a divider dividing sinker
  • a yarn carrier lays yarn Y along a bank of enmasse movable needles, including needles N1 to N18, and yarn so laid is kinked by sinkers, including jack sinkers s3, s4, S7, S8, S11, S12, S15, S16, and divided by dividing sinkers or dividers d1, d2, d5, d6, d9, d10, d13, d14, d17 and dlS.
  • the loops of a course C1 of fabric was initially knit on the needles N1 to N12, and, during such knitting, the yarn carrier YC was held in position above the divider Z13 by the carrier stop CS1. With the carrier YC so positioned, the lead of the yarn Y extended through the bight of the selvage loop of the preceding course and between the needles N13 and N15 to the tube of the yarn carrier YC, as indicated in dotted lines.
  • the main cam shaft of the knitting machine was shifted lengthwise into the narrowing cycle to bring the narrowing machine into operation and permit the control buttons of its pattern chain to cause the rotation of the usual spindles to move outward the carrier stops CS1 and CS2 from positions for stopping yarn carriers above the dividers 113 and d14 to positions for stopping carriers above the dividers d17 and d18.
  • the yarn carrier CS1 was connected in the usual manner with the yarn carrier YC so that the outward movement of the yarn carrier stop CS1 moved the yarn carrier YC outward from the divider Z13 to the divider d17, thereby laying a lead of the yarn Y along the knock-over bits K while the sinkers and dividers are retracted and the top of the needles are in a position below the tops of the knock-over bits.
  • the needles rise in the narrowing cycle, they move toward the press face PF of the sinker bed and the noses of the sinkers are advanced.
  • the angle of the lead of the yarn Y between the tube of the yarn carrier YC and the selvage loop of the preceding course is such that the needle N15 rises in back of the lead, so that the lead passes between the needles N15 and N17 and beneath the nib of the sinker S15 as indicated in full lines in Fig. 9.
  • the lace bar LB has been operated by the narrowing machine, under control of buttons on the pattern chain, to cause the Petinet point P1 to shift the needle loop NL1 from the needle N11 onto the needle N13 and to shift the needle loop NLS from the needle N3 to the needle N5.
  • the space between the points P1 and P2 is suciently great to permit this manipulation by the point P1 without causing the point P2 to engage any of the loops of the fabric.
  • the main cam shaft of the machine is again shifted longitudinally into the knitting cycle so as to bring the coulier motion into action and move the yarn carrier YC from its position above the divider d17 to a position above the divider d18.
  • This movement of the yarn carrier YC loops the yarn Y around the nib of the sinker S15 and lays it along the beard side of the needles so that the yarn now forms a sinker loop SL1 around the needle N15 and the yarn is kinked by the sinkers between alternate needles, as shown in Fig. 9.
  • the dividers are advanced by the catch bar in the usual manner to divide the yarn, as shown inFig. 10, and the kinked and divided 6 yarn is then drawn by the needles through the loops of the course C1, the loops of which are then cast olf excepting the sinker loop SL1 around the needle N15.
  • the main cam shaft is longitudinally shifted into the narrowing cycle and the lace bar LB is operated by the nare rowing machine to cause the Petinet point P2 to shift the needle loop NL2 from the needle N12 onto the needle N14, but without any outward movement of the carrier stops CS1, CS2 or any further outward movement of the yarn carrier YC at this stage of operation.
  • the lace bar LB is also shifted to cause the point P2 to transfer the needle loop NL6 from the needle N6 to the needle NS so as to form the lace stitch p2.
  • the coulier motion moves the carrier YC from its position over the divider d18 leftward until it is stopped by the carrier stop CS1 over the divider d17.
  • This traverse of the carrier YC loops the yarn lead extending from the base of the transferred loop NL2 around the nib of the sinker S16 and around the needle N16 so as to form a smker loop SL2 and lay the yarn Y along the beard side of the needles to permit its kinking between every two needles by the advance of the sinkers as shown in Fig. l2.
  • the yarn Y is then divided by the advance of the dividers, as shown in Fig. l3, and the kinked and divided yarn is drawn by the needles through the loops of the course C2 to form on the needles the loops of the course C3, the sinker loop S12 being meanwhile held on the needle N16, as shown in Fig. 14.
  • the cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle, so as to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P1 to transfer the needle loop NL7 from the needle N7 onto the needle N9 so as to form the lace stitch p3.
  • This shifting of the lace bar takes place without any further outward movement of the carrier stops CS1 and CS2.
  • the knitting of courses, of the width of the course C3, is carried on to form the courses C4, C5 and C6 in the usual manner of knitting, excepting that after the knitting of the course C4 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P2 to shift the loop NLS from the needle N2 onto the needle N4 so as to form the lace stitch p4; after the knitting of the course C5 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle to bring the lace bar LB into action to cause the point P1 to shift a needle loop NL9 from a needle (not shown) onto the needle N1 to form the lace stitch p5; and after the knitting of the course C6 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle so as to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P2 to transfer the needle loop NL10 from the needle N12 onto the needle N14 to form the lace stitch p6.
  • the widening cycle is then repeated, beginning with the knitting of the loops for the course C7, the movement of the carrier stops CS1 and CS2 each outward a ⁇ further distance equal to the pitch of two needles, the outward transfer of the left hand end needle loop NL11,
  • the Widening cycles are continued to form the widening steps f3 to f8, and as many more steps as may be desired to give a desired width to the fabric, which, when completed is folded and seamed along the selvages.
  • the transferred loops NLl and NL2 each initiate or form a starting loop for a new wale positioned outwardly from but extending parallel to the Wale containing the selvage loops of the courses preceding the course C1.
  • the sinker loops SLI and SLZ, and subsequent comparable loops each extend not only along a transferred end needle loop of one course but also along. an end sinker loop of the next succeeding course.
  • a weft knit selvaged fabricv composed of loops forming courses and wales, and having a widened section, certain courses of said section each having at one end only a needle loop transferred outwardly and initiating a, Waley positioned outwardly from and parallel to the Wale containing the selvage loop of the next preceding course, and a. sinker loop extending along at least the full length ofv a leg. of such transferred loop.
  • a weft knit fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales and having a;selvaged widened. section, said widened section having a course containing. at one end only an end needle loop inclined outwardly beyond the selvage needle loop of the immediately preceding course and. also including an added. loop extending outwardly beyond the vselvage loop of the immediately preceding course.
  • a weft knit selvage fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales and having a widened section including in alternating courses end needle loops each transferred outwardly beyond the selvage loop of an immediately preceding course, and an added loop adjacent to each transferred loop and extending beyond the selvage loop of an immediately preceding course.
  • A. weft knit selvage fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales, one of such courses having at one end thereof an. end needle loop transferred outward beyond the adjoining selvage loop of the immediately precedingV course',Y Yand-said fabric including an added sinkerloop contiguous with said transferred loopV and extending fromy said preceding course and along the outside of said transferred loop and along the outside of an end sinker loop of a succeeding course to a course beyond said last named course.
  • said additional needles and a new course-of loops through the: loops of said second ⁇ course to.form a third course-and a lead of yarn along additional needles at the opposite end from the additional needles rst named, transferring the end needle loop of said third course to one of the additional needles second named, and transferring a loop of the third course from one needle to another of said rst named group to form a lace stitch.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Description

May 22, 1956 o. F. SMETANA 2,746,276
WIDENED KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 4, 1950 3 Sheets-Sheetl 2 r f r P VM @AWWWW mx;
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WIDENED KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 4, 1950 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 .a i? n' @QU mf dlg @J5 bvfvm O 0 eooeeooeee OUCMMQSLFWUQU@ "ZUUFUMGUQUGU KY ld ldd/Wl Pim/"21 lmlml Y sgg? 6 @@Q @W/Q@ @Q -.-wfwww.w, www m@ mwfwwwm.@@wwwfww-,
C51 @17, p3 AfL/0 C58 @@@Gav o I e TTL.%METANA WOwOwOwOwM-M L. LMS* United States Patent() WIDENED KNHTED FAEPJC ANB M'E'II'IOD 0F MAKMG THE SAME Otto F. Smetana, Concord, N. C., assigner, by mesne assignments, to Phil Cord Corporation, a corporation of North Carolina Application December 4, 1950, Serial No. 199,049
12 Claims. (Cl. 66139) My invention is a weft knit, selvaged fabric forming a blank of varying width particularly adapted for the manufacture of full-fashioned hosiery, and having one or more widened sections characterized by the outward transfer of an end needle loop at one end only of each of certain courses and by the addition of a sinker loop adjoining the transferred needle-loop. Such transferred needle-loop and sinker loop preferably provide base loops for the subsequent knitting of needle wales lying outwardly from but parallel with the previously knit selvage loops of a previously knit fabric section.
My invention also includes the method of forming and transferring to effect widening of such fabric during the knitting thereof on the usual Cotton type of full-fashioned hosiery machine.
When a course of a usual selvaged weft-knit fabric knit from a continuous yarn is of the same width as an immediately preceding course, the selvage loops at the opposite ends of each course diifer from one another in accordance with the direction in which the yarn is drawn in laying the course: viz., the selvage loop at the draw edge, or edge from which the yarn is drawn, consists of a simple needle loop having only two legs, whereas the selvage loop at the lead edge, or edge toward which the yarn is drawn, consists of a needle loop and a sinker loop intertwined therewith and formed by a section of the yarn lead drawn through the end needle loop to connect it with the simple needle loop forming the selvage loop of the next succeeding course, Consequently the selvage loops at the same edge of consecutive coursesof ordinary fabrics are alternately plain loops and loops including a twist of sinker loop.
It has been proposed to change the width of weft-knit fabric by widening consecutive courses respectively adjacent to opposite selvages by extending the lay of the yarn lead in the draws of the yarn in opposite directions for the respective courses, and it has also been proposed to widen fabric by transferring outwardly loops at both ends of one or more courses. But such widenings are diicult in practice and not altogether satisfactory in result and have heretofore precluded the formation of fabric having fast selvages and adjacent lace work.
ln accordance with my invention, weft knit fabric is widened by outwardly transferring an end needle-loop at the lead end of a course, viz., adjacent to the yarn lead,
and by adding a loop adjacent to the transferred loop. The added loop is preferably formed by forming a distinct sinker loop from the yarn lead section which would ordinarily be twisted around the leg of the terminal needle loop at the lead edge of the course. Consequently, one selvage of each widened course of the fabric will contain a juxtaposed plain transferred loop and an added loop, but successive courses will be widened only at opposite selvages. The transferred loop of one selvage is staggered with respect to the transferred loop of .the
other selvage, and the added loop in one selvage of oneV course may partly overlay the next course, which may, or may not, have an added loop in the other selvage.
The transfer of loops is preferably effected by lace points (Petinet points) mounted at opposite ends of a reciprocable lace rod which may be journalled in bearings of a usual narrowing machine so that the points may be swung downward into active position when the regular narrowing point units are racked outwardly beyond the needle section or may be swung upward into inactive position when the regular narrowing points are to be used in fashioning the stocking.
The distance between the lace points on the lace rod is greater than the width of the fabric, so that loops along one selvage of the fabric may be transferred outwardly without any interference of the lace point at the opposite ends of the rod with the fabric, and vice versa. The lace points at the opposite ends of the rod may also be used, if desired, in alternation to form lace stitches inward from the selvages to provide ornamental designs in the body of the fabric adjacent to its widened section having fast selvages.
The additional loop at the end of a course is preferably vformed on the next traverse of the yarn by bending the that the yarn tube of each carrier is thereby positioned above the second (instead of the first) divider outward from the needle which knits the end needle-loop to be transferred.
This movement of the yarn tube and the transfer of the end needle-loop gives the yarn lead extending from the base of such end needle-loop to the feed tube such an angle as to bring it in front of an additional needle and under the sinkers and dividers during the usual movements of the needles, sinkers and dividers while the main cam shaft is in its narrowing position. The next traverse of the yarn carrier therefore bends the lead around the extra needle and forms a bight thereon beyond the transferred end needle-loop.
Such traverse continues beyond the needle holding the selvage loop of the opposite side of the fabric and until the feed tube reaches the second (instead of the first) divider beyond such needle. The last laid yarn is knit into a course.
The main cam shaft is then shifted to narrowing,
position, and the narrowing machine operated to transfer the end needle-loop adjacent to the lead outward one needle, but without shifting the carrier stops. The lead from the transferred loop to the carrier tube had such an angle that the movements of the needles, sinkers and dividers while the main cam shaft is in narrowing position causes the lead to be under the sinkers and dividers and in front of the needle outward from the transferred loop. Hence, the lead will be bent around such outward needle to form a sinker loop upon the next traverse of the yarn carrier to lay a new course.
As the narrowing points are racked outward during widening, the lace (Petinet) points may be used for mak- In the drawings, Fig. l is a diagrammatic, perspective Y view of a full-fashioned stocking widened in accordance aymara with my invention forewardly of the heel narrowing; Fig. Zis a diagrammatic, plan View ofA the foot section` of'fa hosiery blank for making the stocking of Fig. l; Fig. 3 is an enlarged, fragmentary, diagrammatic View of a prtion ofthe blank shownl inFig. 2 within the area indicated by dot and dash lines; Fig. 4l is an enlarged, diagrammatic fragmentary view of selvaged' areas of a'portionl yof a widened section shown in- Fig. 3;-Fig. 5"i`s' a diagrammatic view of aneedle bar and lace bar of a conventional'fuilfashioned hosiery machine of the Cotton type; Figf is an enlarged, diagrammatic Viewy illustrating the stitchY construction of part of the fabric sections such as shown in Fig. 4,A the lower courses beginning-atabouttheposition indicated-bythe line 6 6 of Fig. 1;-Figr. 7y diagrammatically illustrates movements `of the carrier stops; yarn carrier-and a lace point and the transfer of? loops by a lace point-in forming the first widened'course; Fig. 8 is a fragmentary, diagrammatic, transverse, sectional view taken approximately on the line 8 8 of Fig. 7 and indicating the laying of a yarn lead'when the yarn carrierismoved outward by movement'of a carrier'stop` during-a widening cyclegrFig. 9 diagrammatically 'illustrates the layingandV sinker-kinking of a length of yarn to bedrawn through the first widened course to form a second widened course;
Fig; 101 diagrammati'cally illustrates the dividing off the yarn laid in Fig. 9; Fig. 1l. diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after loops have been drawn through the vfirstwid'ened course and certain loops of the second course have beentransferred outwardly; Fig. 1'2 diagrammatically illustrates the layingV and sinker-kinking of a further" length of yarn along the loops of the second'widened course; Fig. 13 diagrammatically illustrates the dividing ofthe yarn laid in Fig. 12; Fig. 14 diagrammatically illus.- trates the fabric after the yarn laid in Fig. l2 has` been drawn through the loops of the secondl widenedcourse to, form a third course and one of the newly drawn loops has been transferred' to form alaceA stitch locatedv inward from.r the selvage; Fig. 15 diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after a new course of loops has been drawnV through the fell loops of Fig. 14 and kone of the newly formed loops remote from the selvage has been transferred to form a lace stitch; and Fig. 16 diagrammatically illustrates the fabric after a new course of' loops has been drawn through the fell loops of Fig. l5, andone oft the loops of the last formed course located remote from the selvage has been transferred; and Fig, 17 diagrammatically illustrates they fabric after anew course ofloopslias been drawn and one of them transferred, the fabric and parts being now ready for the repetition of'4 the cycleh begun with the laying of the top course'of'Fig. 7'.
For the purpose of illustrating my invention, I'A have shown in the drawing a womans full-fashioned, single unit stocking having a usual welt W, a diaphanousilegv and instep portion L a reinforced heel portion H, a reinforced foot portion Fand a reinforced' toe portion T. The: heel section H maybe widened out in any *desired manner to form a pocket and the fabric is then narrowed' between the heel' and sole by a row of'conventional narrowing marks M.
When the narrowing marksM arev of suchnumber andvv extent as to give a desired tI around the heel andover the' instep, they tend to cause the foot sectii'm'adjacentJ tothe metatarsal arch to be excessivelyY narrow; partic'mlarlyl where the stocking is knit of low denier yarn on a fine gauge machine, anda leadingobject of my invention'is to facilitate the wideningl and ornamentation ofthe foot' fabric forewardly of the heel narrowings so` as to comfortably' accommodate the spread ofj the foot'adjacentto the metatarsal arch.
As illustrated in the drawings, the reinforced foot" sectionV F, forewardly ofthe row of' narrowing marks M, is widened out alternately at its opposite selvrages by steps f1, f2, f3, f4, fij, f7, f8 etc. The evennumbered steps along the rightvhand. selvage are staggered', respectively,
relatively to theA odd. numbered steps, along the., lefthand..
selvage. If desired, ornamental patterns P may be formed inwardlyv of' the respective selvages-bylacestitches p1', p2, p3, p4, p5, p6, p7, p8 etc., extending along, but spaced inwardly any desired distance from the widening steps; such lace stitches preferably extending predominately along a wale at each side of the fabric so as to form parallel lines of lace stitchesV from which the adjacent edges diverge.
As illustrated in Fig. 6, the stocking blank shown in Figs. l to 4, includes loops forming, inter alia, the wales Wlf to W17" and courses C1 to C8,.the course'Cl beginning forwardly of the courses narrowed by the narrowing marks M.
The widening step` fl at the left of theY footV blank is formed by the transfer of the end needle-loop NL1 of the course C1 from the Wale W11 to the Wale W13 and by the sinker loop SLI which connects the needle loop NL1 with the loop N143 of the course C2. The lace stitch p1 is: formed by thetransfer ofl the needle loop NLS of the course C1l from the wale-W3'to the Wale W5.
The widening step f2 at the right hand selvage of the f'oot blank is formed by the transfer of theneedle loop NLZ' ofthe course C2 from the Wale W12v to the Wale W14and by the sinker loop S12 which connects the needle loopNLZ with the loop NIA-of the course C3. The lace stitch. p2 is formed by the transfer of the needle loop NLG of'A the course C2r from the'wale W6 to the Wale-W8.
From the foregoing*y it will be seen that the steps f1V and f2 each widen the foot` fabric adistance of two needles on oppositesides ofthe fabric in alternation, and that each widening step results from theoutward transfer of an end'y needle loop andthe formation of a sinker loop connecting such transferred loop with a needle-loop'y of a'subsequent'course of loops.
Preferably the courses- C3, C4, C5 and C6V are thenl knitted? of thewidth to which the fabric hasA been widened by. the alternated steps f1' and f2, and such uniforml widthl courses may have-loops thereof transferred for the formation` of' further elements of the ornamental designsf P. For example, the needle loop-NL7 of the'course C3 may be transferred'from the'. wale W7' to the Wale W9; the needle loop NIL84l of the course C4V may be transferred from the Wale W2 to the wale W4; the needle loop'NLQ' off the course C5`- may be transferredA from a wale (not shown) to the waleY N1V andthe' needle loop NL10 of the course- Ctmaybeftransferredv from the WaleV W12 tothe wale W14.
It: will, of course, be understood that; in practice, the transferred'l'oopsNLS, N16, NL7', NL8NL9, etc., forming lace stitches of the patterns P would be a greater number of: wales inward from the selvagesthan is diagrammatically: shown in Pig.s6 andA thata lace design of:y
any desired formmaybe made by'suitablyshiftng'needle loops-from one Wale to'another remote from the selvageinvarious courses offA the fabric between the beginning and' end of widening; TheV production of the design; P
as= shown 'merely requires theV transfer of needle' loops from the Walev W3 tothe wale W5 and theV transfer of needlev loopsV from the wale W6 to' the wale W8 in a sequence of' alternating courses and the sagittal top of chansthereof andappropriately positioning transfer pointsf P1" and P2 on a lace bar LB, or, other transfer rod', controlled by. the narrowing machine (not shown) of' a standard knitting machine.
Such narrowing machines are provided with spindles and ratchet mechanisms for moving the carrier rod stops CS1 and CS2 at desired inten/als, in or out a distance equal to the pitch of two needles so as to cause the stoppage of a yarn carrier YC above a divider (dividing sinker) located outwardly from the needle forming selvage loops of a selvage of the fabric being knit.
In the operation of the machine, a yarn carrier lays yarn Y along a bank of enmasse movable needles, including needles N1 to N18, and yarn so laid is kinked by sinkers, including jack sinkers s3, s4, S7, S8, S11, S12, S15, S16, and divided by dividing sinkers or dividers d1, d2, d5, d6, d9, d10, d13, d14, d17 and dlS.
For simplicity only a single main yarn carrier YC is shown, but the usual splicing carriers for laying reinforcing yarns may, of course, be moved in the same manner as the carrier YC.
As indicated in Fig. 7, the loops of a course C1 of fabric was initially knit on the needles N1 to N12, and, during such knitting, the yarn carrier YC was held in position above the divider Z13 by the carrier stop CS1. With the carrier YC so positioned, the lead of the yarn Y extended through the bight of the selvage loop of the preceding course and between the needles N13 and N15 to the tube of the yarn carrier YC, as indicated in dotted lines.
At the conclusion of the knitting cycle forming the course C1, the main cam shaft of the knitting machine was shifted lengthwise into the narrowing cycle to bring the narrowing machine into operation and permit the control buttons of its pattern chain to cause the rotation of the usual spindles to move outward the carrier stops CS1 and CS2 from positions for stopping yarn carriers above the dividers 113 and d14 to positions for stopping carriers above the dividers d17 and d18.
The yarn carrier CS1 was connected in the usual manner with the yarn carrier YC so that the outward movement of the yarn carrier stop CS1 moved the yarn carrier YC outward from the divider Z13 to the divider d17, thereby laying a lead of the yarn Y along the knock-over bits K while the sinkers and dividers are retracted and the top of the needles are in a position below the tops of the knock-over bits. As the needles rise in the narrowing cycle, they move toward the press face PF of the sinker bed and the noses of the sinkers are advanced. The angle of the lead of the yarn Y between the tube of the yarn carrier YC and the selvage loop of the preceding course is such that the needle N15 rises in back of the lead, so that the lead passes between the needles N15 and N17 and beneath the nib of the sinker S15 as indicated in full lines in Fig. 9.
Meanwhile, the lace bar LB has been operated by the narrowing machine, under control of buttons on the pattern chain, to cause the Petinet point P1 to shift the needle loop NL1 from the needle N11 onto the needle N13 and to shift the needle loop NLS from the needle N3 to the needle N5. The space between the points P1 and P2 is suciently great to permit this manipulation by the point P1 without causing the point P2 to engage any of the loops of the fabric.
When the movement of the carrier stops CS1, CS2 and yarn carrier YC, and the shifting of the loops NL1 and NLS has been completed, the main cam shaft of the machine is again shifted longitudinally into the knitting cycle so as to bring the coulier motion into action and move the yarn carrier YC from its position above the divider d17 to a position above the divider d18. This movement of the yarn carrier YC loops the yarn Y around the nib of the sinker S15 and lays it along the beard side of the needles so that the yarn now forms a sinker loop SL1 around the needle N15 and the yarn is kinked by the sinkers between alternate needles, as shown in Fig. 9.
After couliering has been completed, the dividers are advanced by the catch bar in the usual manner to divide the yarn, as shown inFig. 10, and the kinked and divided 6 yarn is then drawn by the needles through the loops of the course C1, the loops of which are then cast olf excepting the sinker loop SL1 around the needle N15.
Upon completion of the knitting of the course C2 the main cam shaft is longitudinally shifted into the narrowing cycle and the lace bar LB is operated by the nare rowing machine to cause the Petinet point P2 to shift the needle loop NL2 from the needle N12 onto the needle N14, but without any outward movement of the carrier stops CS1, CS2 or any further outward movement of the yarn carrier YC at this stage of operation. However, during the narrowing cycle, the usual movements of the needles, sinkers and dividers 'and the angle of the lead of the yarn Y from the base of the transferred loop NL2 to the tube of the carrier YC causes the yarn lead to lie under the sinkers and dividers and in front of the additional needle N16 and to pass between it and the needle N18.
The lace bar LB is also shifted to cause the point P2 to transfer the needle loop NL6 from the needle N6 to the needle NS so as to form the lace stitch p2.
Upon the next shift of the main cam shaft to knitting position, the coulier motion moves the carrier YC from its position over the divider d18 leftward until it is stopped by the carrier stop CS1 over the divider d17. This traverse of the carrier YC loops the yarn lead extending from the base of the transferred loop NL2 around the nib of the sinker S16 and around the needle N16 so as to form a smker loop SL2 and lay the yarn Y along the beard side of the needles to permit its kinking between every two needles by the advance of the sinkers as shown in Fig. l2.
The yarn Y is then divided by the advance of the dividers, as shown in Fig. l3, and the kinked and divided yarn is drawn by the needles through the loops of the course C2 to form on the needles the loops of the course C3, the sinker loop S12 being meanwhile held on the needle N16, as shown in Fig. 14.
Upon completion of the formation of the loops of course C3, the cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle, so as to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P1 to transfer the needle loop NL7 from the needle N7 onto the needle N9 so as to form the lace stitch p3. This shifting of the lace bar takes place without any further outward movement of the carrier stops CS1 and CS2.
vEy the foregoing operations, all the needles, excepting the needles N17 and N18, between the dividers d17 and d1@ are now provided with loops, and knitting of courses, of the width of the course C3, may now be carried on for as many courses as desired before repeating the widening cycle.
As illustrated in Figs. l5, 16 and 17, the knitting of courses, of the width of the course C3, is carried on to form the courses C4, C5 and C6 in the usual manner of knitting, excepting that after the knitting of the course C4 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P2 to shift the loop NLS from the needle N2 onto the needle N4 so as to form the lace stitch p4; after the knitting of the course C5 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle to bring the lace bar LB into action to cause the point P1 to shift a needle loop NL9 from a needle (not shown) onto the needle N1 to form the lace stitch p5; and after the knitting of the course C6 the main cam shaft is shifted longitudinally into the narrowing cycle so as to bring the lace bar LB into action and cause the point P2 to transfer the needle loop NL10 from the needle N12 onto the needle N14 to form the lace stitch p6.
The widening cycle is then repeated, beginning with the knitting of the loops for the course C7, the movement of the carrier stops CS1 and CS2 each outward a` further distance equal to the pitch of two needles, the outward transfer of the left hand end needle loop NL11,
the formation of :a simian-,loop SL3 outward from the transferred selvage loop N111 and the transfer of a loop from the needle N3 onto the needle N5 to form a lace stitch p7 in walewise alignment with the lace stitch p1, all as described in connection with the formation of the course C1.
The Widening cycles are continued to form the widening steps f3 to f8, and as many more steps as may be desired to give a desired width to the fabric, which, when completed is folded and seamed along the selvages.
It will be noted that the transferred loops NLl and NL2, and similar succeeding transferred end needle-loops, each initiate or form a starting loop for a new wale positioned outwardly from but extending parallel to the Wale containing the selvage loops of the courses preceding the course C1. It will further be noted that the sinker loops SLI and SLZ, and subsequent comparable loops, each extend not only along a transferred end needle loop of one course but also along. an end sinker loop of the next succeeding course.
Having described my invention, I claim:
A weft knit selvaged fabricv composed of loops forming courses and wales, and having a widened section, certain courses of said section each having at one end only a needle loop transferred outwardly and initiating a, Waley positioned outwardly from and parallel to the Wale containing the selvage loop of the next preceding course, and a. sinker loop extending along at least the full length ofv a leg. of such transferred loop.
2. A weft knit fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales and having a;selvaged widened. section, said widened section having a course containing. at one end only an end needle loop inclined outwardly beyond the selvage needle loop of the immediately preceding course and. also including an added. loop extending outwardly beyond the vselvage loop of the immediately preceding course.
3. A weft knit selvage fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales and having a widened section including in alternating courses end needle loops each transferred outwardly beyond the selvage loop of an immediately preceding course, and an added loop adjacent to each transferred loop and extending beyond the selvage loop of an immediately preceding course.
4. A. weft knit selvage fabric composed of loops forming courses and wales, one of such courses having at one end thereof an. end needle loop transferred outward beyond the adjoining selvage loop of the immediately precedingV course',Y Yand-said fabric including an added sinkerloop contiguous with said transferred loopV and extending fromy said preceding course and along the outside of said transferred loop and along the outside of an end sinker loop of a succeeding course to a course beyond said last named course.
5. A- weft knit selvaged, fabric widened. alternately at opposite selvages by widening steps in staggered relation to one another each. of said steps including a transferred needle loop and a selvage loop formed of contiguous sections of the same yarn.
6. hr the widening. of weft' knitted fabric, the-steps which comprise knittingl a yarn to lform a course of loops on a. group of the. needles of a bank, outwardly transferring an end loop of. said course to a needle of said bank beyond said group ofneedles, bending the lead of said yarn adjacent'tosaid transferred loop around a second needle beyond said group of .needles and laying said yarn along and.y beyond the needlesV ofA said group, and. knitting said laid yarnthrough the loops' on said needles.
7.. Inthe widening of. knitted fabric having a course of loops on a group. of the* needles of a bank, the steps Whichcormprise knittinga second course of. loops through saidV 'rst namedY course, transferring outward an end needle loop at one end only of said second course, formingE a bight, of. yarn contiguous withsaid transferredl loop and on the sameside of. thefabric thereas around aneedle beyond said group, and knitting further courses to form loops through said transferred loop and bight.
8. ln the widening of knitted fabric having a course of loops on a group ofthe needles of a bank, the steps which comprise knitting a course having a needle loop at'one end of said group, transferring said needle loop to a needle outward from the needle on which it was knit,lforming asinkerloop yaround a needle adjoining the needleholding said transferred loop,` and drawing a loop through said transferred loop while holding said sinker loop on its needle.
9. In the widening of. knitted fabric having a course of loops on a group of the needles of a bank, the steps which comprise laying a yarn from a loop in one selvage of said fabric along said group of needles to a point beyond the needle holding a loopvin the opposite selvage of said fabric, drawing said yarn through the loops of said rst course to form a second course vof loops, transferring the end needle loop at one end of said second course to a needle of said bank outward from the needle on which it was formed, bending said yarn around a needle of said bank outward beyond the needle holding the transferred loop to form a bight and laying such yarn along the needles to a point beyond the needle holding the selvage loop at the opposite end of said course, drawing said yarn through the loops of said second course, including said transferred loop, to forrn a third course while holding said. bight on its needle, transferring the end loop of saidcourse opposite said bight to` a needle outward from the needle on which it was formed, bending said yarn around a needley of said bank outward from the needle holding; the last named transferred loop and laying said' yarn along said needles to a point beyond the needle holding said first bight, and drawing said lyarn through said third c ourse and` through said. bight to form a fourth course of loopswhile holding said second bight on its needle.
l0.. In the widening` of knitted fabric having a course of loops on a group of the needles of a bank of a knitting machine having sinkers and dividers between said needles, a yarn carrier complementary to said needles, and shiftable. stops controlling said yarn carrier, the steps which comprise knitting a. course of loops lthrough said first course, shifting. said4 stops to permit Ymovement of said.
carrier toa point adjacent tothe second divider beyond the needle holdingV the selvage loop at either end of said course, moving said carrier to a point adjacent to the second dividerbeyondthe needle holding an endV needle loopof said second course and shifting such end needle lcoptol a. needle adjoining .the needle onv which it was formed, moving said needles to bring anradditionalneedle inside the yarn plead. extending from` the selvage loop of said. first course .to said. carrier, moving said` carrier to form a bight of yarn around said additional needle: positioned within saidlead and to lay yarn along the loopholdingk needles and along three needles beyond the oppositeendof. kthe course of loops. on said needles, moving said needles,. sinkers and. dividers to draw said yarn througlland cast. olf. the loops on` saidV needles and to position two ofsaid three needles within the lead of'yarn extending from. the end rloop of the castotf course to the carrier, and transferring the end needle loop of the last formed course to one of said: two needles.
ll... VIn the widening of. knitted fabric havingV a. course of. loops on a group of. needles of the needle bank ofa knittinmachine, `the stepswhich include knitting a course of. loops through the'loops on` saidgroup,V laying a lead of. yarn along additional needles beyond said groupl and transferring the. end: needle loopi of. saidfsecond coursel to one of. said additional needles;Y transferringvv a loop of the second coursel from one needle to another of vsaid first named group toy forma lace stitch, laying and knittinga yarn to; form al bight on one. of. said additional needles and a new course-of: loops through the: loops of said second` course to.form a third course-and a lead of yarn along additional needles at the opposite end from the additional needles rst named, transferring the end needle loop of said third course to one of the additional needles second named, and transferring a loop of the third course from one needle to another of said rst named group to form a lace stitch.
12. In the Widening and ornamenting of weft knit fabric, having loops forming courses and wales, the steps which include transferring outward in alternation end needle loops at opposite and lead ends of successive courses and transferring other loops of said courses to form lace stitches spaced from the edges thereof.
References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Salzer et a1 Mar. 28, Cecka June 5, Heinitz Apr. 20, Somers Feb. 4, Badders et al. Sept. 22, Garrett May 18, Goodman Jan. 25, Mack Oct. 8, Illges Jan. 30,
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Cited By (2)

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US3007327A (en) * 1958-11-26 1961-11-07 Glen Raven Knitting Mills Inc Tights and method of making
US3092987A (en) * 1959-02-06 1963-06-11 Levine Alex Element of apparel and method of making the same

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US987827A (en) * 1903-04-02 1911-03-28 Bruno Salzer Openwork pattern device for knitting-machines.
US1228648A (en) * 1914-09-08 1917-06-05 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen Knitted goods and the method of making the same.
US2077835A (en) * 1937-04-20 Method of widening fabrics
US2230986A (en) * 1940-07-09 1941-02-04 Nat Silk Hosiery Mills Inc Method of widening on flat knitting machines
US2296590A (en) * 1941-04-05 1942-09-22 Nat Silk Hosiery Mills Inc Method of widening on flat knitting machines employing auxiliary yarn
US2319224A (en) * 1940-10-05 1943-05-18 Jack Kugelman Full-fashioned heel construction
US2340266A (en) * 1940-05-24 1944-01-25 Nat Hosiery Mills Inc Full fashioned stocking and method of producing same
US2409138A (en) * 1942-07-09 1946-10-08 Julius Kayser & Co Hosiery
US2539582A (en) * 1946-12-23 1951-01-30 Shannon Hosiery Mills Inc Stocking and method of making the same

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2077835A (en) * 1937-04-20 Method of widening fabrics
US987827A (en) * 1903-04-02 1911-03-28 Bruno Salzer Openwork pattern device for knitting-machines.
US1228648A (en) * 1914-09-08 1917-06-05 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen Knitted goods and the method of making the same.
US2340266A (en) * 1940-05-24 1944-01-25 Nat Hosiery Mills Inc Full fashioned stocking and method of producing same
US2230986A (en) * 1940-07-09 1941-02-04 Nat Silk Hosiery Mills Inc Method of widening on flat knitting machines
US2319224A (en) * 1940-10-05 1943-05-18 Jack Kugelman Full-fashioned heel construction
US2296590A (en) * 1941-04-05 1942-09-22 Nat Silk Hosiery Mills Inc Method of widening on flat knitting machines employing auxiliary yarn
US2409138A (en) * 1942-07-09 1946-10-08 Julius Kayser & Co Hosiery
US2539582A (en) * 1946-12-23 1951-01-30 Shannon Hosiery Mills Inc Stocking and method of making the same

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3007327A (en) * 1958-11-26 1961-11-07 Glen Raven Knitting Mills Inc Tights and method of making
US3092987A (en) * 1959-02-06 1963-06-11 Levine Alex Element of apparel and method of making the same

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