US270971A - Heavy-fabric sewing-machine - Google Patents

Heavy-fabric sewing-machine Download PDF

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US270971A
US270971A US270971DA US270971A US 270971 A US270971 A US 270971A US 270971D A US270971D A US 270971DA US 270971 A US270971 A US 270971A
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needle
machine
frame
bar
presser
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B29/00Pressers; Presser feet
    • D05B29/06Presser feet

Definitions

  • Patented JELZB 1883.
  • This invention relates to that class of sewing-machines known as needle-feed7 machines, and to the details of the construction ot' machines of that class to particularly adapt them to heavy-fabric lap and butt seam work, the object being to provide a machine for heavy-fabric sewing, in which the needle-feed motions are positive in bothdirections and easily adjustable to varyinglengths f stitches, one having the operative parts reduced to the least practicable number, and requiring but little power to run it, and to provide specialattachments therefor,whereby the machine is adapted to a great variety of heavy work.
  • Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a sewing-machine constructed according to my invention with thc feller thereon.
  • Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the linem, Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 3 is a plan View ofthe eyed needle bar.
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of the hook needle bar, together with the cast-011 ⁇ bar and its adj ustingattachinents thereto connected.
  • Fig. 5 is a general perspective View of the operative parts ofthe machine with the frame thereof removed and thefront plate thereof shown in dotted outlines.
  • Fig. 6 is a view ofthe.
  • Fig. 7 is a view, looking from the rear, of some of the operative parts of the machine,the swinging frame being removed.
  • Fig. S is a side elcvation, showing the ordinary arm of the .machine removed and a tube sewing-arm substituted therefor.
  • Fig. 9 illustrates a feller and gage adapted to be used with this machine.
  • Fig. 10 is a rear end view of said feller and gage, showing the fabric as being folded therein in section.
  • Fig. 11 illustrates the upper side, and Fig. 12 the under side, of the seam sewed by employing the feller and gage, Figs. 9 and (No model.)
  • Fig. 13 illustrates a seam-gage adapted for use with this machine; and Figs. 14 and 15 are other views 'ot' the same seamer, showing the different methods ot' forming seams bythe use thereof.
  • Figs. 16 and 17 illustrate the opposite sides of fabric after having been sewed by the use of the seamer, Fig. 13.
  • Fig. 1S illustrates the presser-footof the machine, having attached thereto a butt-seam guide, to-
  • A is the fratrie ot' the may chine.
  • B is the oscillating frame.
  • c is the shaft.
  • d is a driving and cam pulley conlbined.
  • e is the eyed needle bar.
  • o is the cast-olir bar.
  • r is the castot' adjusting-stop.
  • s is the cast-oftl bar-guide.
  • z z are cranks on shaft c.
  • a is the take-up cam.
  • b is the presser-foot cam.
  • b2 is a grooved cam cut in the drivingpulley d.
  • j' is anelbow-lever. wis a connecting-rod.
  • -c2 is the elbow-lever t'ulcrum-block.
  • IL is the presser-foot bar.
  • a is the presser-toot.
  • ol is the take-up.
  • E is the front plate.
  • t2 is the presser-bar lever.
  • K is the cloth-plate.
  • v2 is the presser-barlever-stud.
  • c2 is the binding-tension on the presser-foot.
  • c3 is ,the binding.
  • a2 are the oscillating-frame trunnions.
  • a3 are the trunnion-bearings.
  • a3 indicates the cam-slots in the needle-bars.
  • o2 is a cast-oft' bar friction-spring.
  • o5 are studs on the front plate, E. m is thepresser-bar spring.
  • ' m2 is a lever-block on the presser-bar.
  • H is the clothplate stand on the arm J.
  • o7 is the threadtension.
  • J is the arm of the machine.
  • .L is the tube-work arm.
  • ⁇ 5 and 5% are respectively a feller and its gage. 6 indicates the fabric inFigs.10,11, 12, 14, 15,16, 17. 7 is a seamer. 8 is a butt-seam guide. 9 is carpet fabric. 10
  • 12 is a tube-seamer 4folding-ring.
  • 13 is tube- IOO fabric.
  • 14 is tube-fabric sewed together.
  • -15 is a binder-tension.
  • rlhe machine herein described is so constructed that the operator sits or stands at the rear end thereof, or at the extreme right in Fig. l, and guides the edges of two pieces ot' fabric to aproper position between the upwardpressing presser-foot a and the cloth-plate K, where the needles piercethem and feed them along after each stitch from right to left, or from the rear toward the front end ofthe machine, as will behereinafter fully set forth.
  • the frame A of the machine is of au oblong form, running back from the front plate, E, and having its rear end of half-round form, upon which the arm J is properly secured.
  • the general form of its front end is shown in Fig. 2.
  • the said front end of the frame A is provided with two hollow trunnion-bearings,
  • a front plate, E having on its inner face, studs 05, which are pierced vertically to receive the presser-bar 7L, a stud, v2, to which is hung the presser-bar lever t2, and a fulcrum-block, e2, to which adjustably therein is pivoted the elbow-ieverf, is properly secured to the front end of the frame A.
  • An oscillating frame, B is constructed consisting of a base, 15, having two upright ends, 16, with inclined outer faces, two vertical posts, 17, standing upon said base, and having also inclined outer faces to correspond with those above named on said base, and across-tie, 18, uniting the upper ends of said posts 17.
  • the said inclined faces of the upright parts 16 ot' of said frame B and of said posts 17 are titted to receive upon each end of the said frame two inclined needle-bars,- cand Q', which are suitably secured thereto to permit them to have an easy reciprocating motion on frame B in thedirection of their length.
  • Said needle-bars have each of them a cam-slot, n3, formed therein, through which the cranks z a project; but the form of said cam-slots diers in each needle-bar, so that their motions upon frame AB shall be differential.
  • the needle-bar c has secured to its upper end the eyed needle w, and is actuated by the crank z', while the bart' has the hook-needle a," secured to it, and is actuated by the crank'z.
  • Said needle-bart' is adapted to operate in a direct manner the castLoff c, which is tubular, and through which the hookneedle passes, as seen in Fig. 4.
  • Said castoft' is secured to the upper end of the cast-oft bar o, which is fitted onto frame B by the side of said needle-bar t', the latter being formed to receive it.
  • a spring, o2 is placed between the outer edge of said bar o and its side bearing in frame B to crowd said bar and create sufficient friction to cause the cast-off bar to rest stationary except when moved up or down by the needle-bar t'.
  • Acast-olt ⁇ adjusting-stop, r is secured to the face of needle-bar t by a screw passing through a slot therein, as shown, said stop having an inclined edge, which stands under the lower end of the cast-off bar 0, whereby the working-distance of the cast-ott ⁇ 'U from the point of the needle a" is determined by moving stop r to the right or left, so that when the needle-bar moves up to carry said needle through the fabric the lower end of the cast-off bar may be struck by such a part of said inclined edge as will carry the cast-off up to the proper height.
  • a cast-otf-bar guide, s having a longitudinal slot therein, is secured to the face of the needle-bar t' below the castoft' bar o, and a pin passes through, said slot into said bar o.
  • Said guide s serves to draw the cast-oft' bar and cast-oft' down at a proper time after the thread-loop has been cast oft' from the hook-needle.
  • crank-block in each ofwhich is secured acrank, z and e', which, as above described, projects through the cam-slots a3 in the needle-bars c and t'.
  • a hand-wheel, 21, for slowly turning shaft c is secured to one ot' said cranks.
  • pulley dis the driving-pulley, and has a camlgroove, d2, cut in one side thereof, which receives the end cfa roller-stud secured to-the side (near its end) of the horizontal arm of the elbow-lever f, the latter being pivoted to the i'ulcrum-hlocl c2 on the front plate, E, as in Fig. 7.
  • Said Fulcrum-block is provided with several pivot-holes, and said elbow-lever is provided With coinciding holes, whereby the fulcrum-point of leverj'may be changed by changing the position of the pivot-pin 22, and thereby such a change may be ei'ected in the length ot' the movement of the upper end of the vertical arm of leverf as may be desired to produce a longer or shorter feed in the machine, as will be hereinafter more fully set forth.
  • the oscillating frameB is provided with two trunnions a2 one located at each end of thel loo lIO
  • the presser-footn is provided with two slots, as shown,through which the needles pass, and in which they swing in feeding, and is secured to the vertical presser-bar, which is supported in the studs o5 on the front plate, E.
  • a block, m2 is secured on said presser-bar, and aspriug, fm., is placed on thelatter between said block and the lower stud, oi', whereby the presser bar and foot are forced upward.
  • a presser-bar lever, i2 is secured on said presser-bar, and aspriug, fm., is placed on thelatter between said block and the lower stud, oi', whereby the presser bar and foot are forced upward.
  • connection by ordinary band with the driving-pulley d may be made with any con- -venient foot-power or other driving mechanism.
  • Any convenient treadle attachment may be made with .the lower-end of the presser-foot shaft, whereby the presser-foot may be drawn down away from the cloth-plate for the purpose of inserting work therebetween, or'for -other purposes.
  • the parts to be united are to have a lap-seam sewed,one edgeis laid upon the other between the presser-foot and the .cloth-plate, carrying their ends forward, so that the needles will pierce them when they tirst pass upward.
  • the thread is passed around a tensionroller, o7, in the ordinary way, thence over a thread-roller, 90, on frameB, (see Fig. 1,) thence back over a roller on the take-up, and thence through the eye of the needlex, a loose end being left, as usual.
  • shaft c may be slowly turned by seizing the handwheel 21 to ascertain that all parts are properly adjusted to the work, when the machine may bc started at full speed.
  • the hook-needle follows and pierces the fabric, and the needles stand crossing each other, but the eyed needle having started -down beforel the hook-needle cross 1t, a loop is formed 0n the side of thefoimer, which the hook-needle passes upthrongh and attaches itself to, and as the eyed needle draws down out of the fabric said loop becomes engaged with the hook-needle and is by it drawn down through-the fabric, where. after the next loop is formed, it is cast oif by the operation of the parts above-described iu the usual way.
  • FIG. 5 A presser-foot of the same construction is shown in Fig. 5.
  • the seam'illustrated in Fig. 12 may be sewed in the manner described last by drawing the binding away from the presser-foot.
  • the binding c3 is drawn from a roll under the machine, as in Fig.
  • the feller 5 is secured to the presser-foot, as in Fig. 1, and the gage 5 is secured to the clothplate.
  • Said feller 5 is illustrated on an enlarged scale in Fig. 9, and is constructed with a dat plate-shaped base, 23, from which is folded, in a flat tubular tapering form, one edge of the plate to form an elliptic-shaped t'eller,with one edge of the plate 24interposed between said base and the upper side ot' said feller.
  • a slotted arm, 25, is attached to one side thereof, through which screws pass to secure the attachment to the presser-foot.
  • the gage 5,5- is bent, as shown, to correspond somewhat to the curve of the side of said feller.
  • FIG. 10 illustrates, looking from the operatoi-s standpoint, as above described', the rear end of said feller and guide and the positions of both edges of the blanket as it is being guided and fed therethrough preparatory to being sewed, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. It will be observed that whatis termed the outside ofthe work is carried next to the presserfoot.
  • Figs. 13, 14, and l5 illustrate a seaming attachment adapted to be used in making with this machine such seams as are illustrated in Figs. 16 and 17,v which may be of a simple single-edge fold or a center seam, as shown in Fig. 17. In both of these cases the binding is usedl when the fabric is not of strong quality, to prevent the edges from pulling oli'. Said seamer, Fig.
  • Said attachment is provided with the usual slotted arni, 30, whereby it may be secured to the presser-foot n, and is slightly raised above the latter by a block, 31, to permit, if desired, of passing the edge of a piece ot' fabric under plate 26, so as to form a seam such as is illustrated in Fig. 17.
  • Said fabric is in the form of a band, and being passed around the part 10 and within ring 12, with its edges inserted in the S-shaped guides 11, it is drawn out beyond the end ot' arm L, so that the vneedles may pierce it, when the latter will, as the machine is operated, continue to sew and drawthefabric along through said guide parts and deliver it in the form of a tube, as shown in Fig. 21.
  • What I claim as my invention is- 1.
  • a needle-feed sewing-machine an oscillating frame to carry two needle-bars at an angle to each other, and having trunnions thereon whereby it is pivoted to the machine, a driving-shaft hung in said oscillating frame, and appliances, substantially as described, t'or rotating said shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame and shaft, all com-l bined and operating substantially as set forth.
  • the oscillating needlebar frame hung on trunnions in the frame of the machine, a driving-shaft hung in said frame, a driving-pulley fixed on said shaft, and having a cam-groove formed in its side, an elbow-lever pivoted adjustably to a fixed stud on the machine, having its horizontal arm engaging with said cam-groove in said ⁇ driving-pulley and its vertical arm connected to said oscillating frame, substantially as set forth.
  • the within-described improved feller and gage 5 and 5 consisting of the flat bascplate 23, from which is folded in a fiat, tubular, tapering form one edge of said lplate to form an elliptic-shaped feller, with one edge, 24, of said plate interposed between said baseplate 23 and the upper side of said feller, and the curved gage 5g, combined and operating substantially as set forth.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) .8 Sheets-Sheet; 1. J. H. MORLEY.
HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
No. 270,971. Patented Jamzalas.
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(No Model.)
8 sheets-sheet' 2. J. H; MORLEY.
HEAVY EABEIO SEWING MACHINE. Patented Jan.28, 1883.
.ELT/67152071 www www
8 Sheets-Sheet 3. J. H. MORLEY.
HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
(No Model.)
Patented Jan. 23, 1883.
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J.. n lll 1l @MM/M PETKRS. Pvwxvmhogmphnf. washington. D. L:A
(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 4. J. H. MORLEY.
HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
No. 270,971. Patented Ja.11.23, 1883.
` (No. Model.)
8 vSheets-Sheet 5.
J. H. MORLBY.
IIBAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Jan.23, 1883.
(No Modell) 8 Sheets-Sheet 6. J. H. MO'RLHY.
HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Jain. 2.3,. 1 883.
(-No Model.)
' 8 sheets-sheet 7. J. H.- MORLEY. HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Jan.23,1883.
(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 8.
J. H. MORLEY.
HEAVY EAEEIG SEWING MACHINE.
No. 270,971. Patented JELZB, 1883.
UNITED STATES PATENT Carica.
JAMES H. MORLEY, OF HOLYOKE, ASSIGNOR TO THE MORLEY SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.
HEAVY-FABRIC SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 270,971, dated January 3, 1883.
Application tiled February 1, 1882.
To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JAMES H. MoaLEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Holyoke, in the county of Hampden and State ot' Massachusetts, have invented new and useful Improvements in Heavy-Fabric Sewing-Machines, ot' which the following is a specitication.
This invention relates to that class of sewing-machines known as needle-feed7 machines, and to the details of the construction ot' machines of that class to particularly adapt them to heavy-fabric lap and butt seam work, the object being to provide a machine for heavy-fabric sewing, in which the needle-feed motions are positive in bothdirections and easily adjustable to varyinglengths f stitches, one having the operative parts reduced to the least practicable number, and requiring but little power to run it, and to provide specialattachments therefor,whereby the machine is adapted to a great variety of heavy work.
In the drawings forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a sewing-machine constructed according to my invention with thc feller thereon. Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the linem, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a plan View ofthe eyed needle bar. Fig. 4 is a plan view of the hook needle bar, together with the cast-011` bar and its adj ustingattachinents thereto connected. Fig. 5 is a general perspective View of the operative parts ofthe machine with the frame thereof removed and thefront plate thereof shown in dotted outlines. Fig. 6 is a view ofthe. presserfoot anda part ot' the presser-foot bar, and illustrating the manner of passing aline of binding through said presser-foot and the tension device to operate upon said binding. Fig. 7 is a view, looking from the rear, of some of the operative parts of the machine,the swinging frame being removed. Fig. S is a side elcvation, showing the ordinary arm of the .machine removed and a tube sewing-arm substituted therefor. Fig. 9 illustrates a feller and gage adapted to be used with this machine. Fig. 10 is a rear end view of said feller and gage, showing the fabric as being folded therein in section. Fig. 11 illustrates the upper side, and Fig. 12 the under side, of the seam sewed by employing the feller and gage, Figs. 9 and (No model.)
10. Fig. 13 illustrates a seam-gage adapted for use with this machine; and Figs. 14 and 15 are other views 'ot' the same seamer, showing the different methods ot' forming seams bythe use thereof. Figs. 16 and 17 illustrate the opposite sides of fabric after having been sewed by the use of the seamer, Fig. 13. Fig. 1S illustrates the presser-footof the machine, having attached thereto a butt-seam guide, to-
gether with' sections of carpet fabric in place In the drawings, A is the fratrie ot' the may chine. B is the oscillating frame. c is the shaft. d is a driving and cam pulley conlbined. e is the eyed needle bar. is the hookneedle bar. o is the cast-olir bar. r is the castot' adjusting-stop. s is the cast-oftl bar-guide. n is the cast-off. .r is the eyed needle. is the hook-needle. z z are cranks on shaft c. a is the take-up cam. b is the presser-foot cam. b2 is a grooved cam cut in the drivingpulley d. j' is anelbow-lever. wis a connecting-rod. -c2 is the elbow-lever t'ulcrum-block. IL is the presser-foot bar. a is the presser-toot. ol is the take-up. E is the front plate. t2 is the presser-bar lever. K is the cloth-plate. v2 is the presser-barlever-stud. c2 is the binding-tension on the presser-foot. c3 is ,the binding. a2 are the oscillating-frame trunnions. a3 are the trunnion-bearings. a3 indicates the cam-slots in the needle-bars. o2 is a cast-oft' bar friction-spring. o5 are studs on the front plate, E. m is thepresser-bar spring.' m2 is a lever-block on the presser-bar. H is the clothplate stand on the arm J. o7 is the threadtension. J is the arm of the machine. .L is the tube-work arm. `5 and 5% are respectively a feller and its gage. 6 indicates the fabric inFigs.10,11, 12, 14, 15,16, 17. 7 is a seamer. 8 is a butt-seam guide. 9 is carpet fabric. 10
isa tube-scanner. 11 are tube-seamer guides."
12 is a tube-seamer 4folding-ring. 13 is tube- IOO fabric. 14 is tube-fabric sewed together. -15 is a binder-tension.
Like letters refer to like parts in the several figures.
rlhe machine herein described is so constructed that the operator sits or stands at the rear end thereof, or at the extreme right in Fig. l, and guides the edges of two pieces ot' fabric to aproper position between the upwardpressing presser-foot a and the cloth-plate K, where the needles piercethem and feed them along after each stitch from right to left, or from the rear toward the front end ofthe machine, as will behereinafter fully set forth.
In this machine all the operative parts thereof are few in number, andare concentrated in that portion thereof directly under the clothplate stand on the end of the arm J.
The frame A of the machine is of au oblong form, running back from the front plate, E, and having its rear end of half-round form, upon which the arm J is properly secured. The general form of its front end is shown in Fig. 2. The said front end of the frame A is provided with two hollow trunnion-bearings,
. a3, set opposite each other and screwed into said frame.
A front plate, E, having on its inner face, studs 05, which are pierced vertically to receive the presser-bar 7L, a stud, v2, to which is hung the presser-bar lever t2, and a fulcrum-block, e2, to which adjustably therein is pivoted the elbow-ieverf, is properly secured to the front end of the frame A.
An oscillating frame, B, is constructed consisting of a base, 15, having two upright ends, 16, with inclined outer faces, two vertical posts, 17, standing upon said base, and having also inclined outer faces to correspond with those above named on said base, and across-tie, 18, uniting the upper ends of said posts 17. The said inclined faces of the upright parts 16 ot' of said frame B and of said posts 17 are titted to receive upon each end of the said frame two inclined needle-bars,- cand Q', which are suitably secured thereto to permit them to have an easy reciprocating motion on frame B in thedirection of their length. Said needle-bars have each of them a cam-slot, n3, formed therein, through which the cranks z a project; but the form of said cam-slots diers in each needle-bar, so that their motions upon frame AB shall be differential. The needle-bar c has secured to its upper end the eyed needle w, and is actuated by the crank z', while the bart' has the hook-needle a," secured to it, and is actuated by the crank'z. Said needle-bart'is adapted to operate in a direct manner the castLoff c, which is tubular, and through which the hookneedle passes, as seen in Fig. 4. Said castoft' is secured to the upper end of the cast-oft bar o, which is fitted onto frame B by the side of said needle-bar t', the latter being formed to receive it. A spring, o2, is placed between the outer edge of said bar o and its side bearing in frame B to crowd said bar and create sufficient friction to cause the cast-off bar to rest stationary except when moved up or down by the needle-bar t'. Acast-olt` adjusting-stop, r, is secured to the face of needle-bar t by a screw passing through a slot therein, as shown, said stop having an inclined edge, which stands under the lower end of the cast-off bar 0, whereby the working-distance of the cast-ott` 'U from the point of the needle a" is determined by moving stop r to the right or left, so that when the needle-bar moves up to carry said needle through the fabric the lower end of the cast-off bar may be struck by such a part of said inclined edge as will carry the cast-off up to the proper height. A cast-otf-bar guide, s, having a longitudinal slot therein, is secured to the face of the needle-bar t' below the castoft' bar o, and a pin passes through, said slot into said bar o. Said guide s serves to draw the cast-oft' bar and cast-oft' down at a proper time after the thread-loop has been cast oft' from the hook-needle.
The above-described means of adjusting the upthrow ofthe cast-olf@ is demanded to adapt the relative working positions of cast-bfi and needle tofabricsot' varying thickness. A shaft, c, is tted to run in proper bearings in the 'vertical posts 17 in the oscillating frame B,
and on each end of said shaft is secured a crank-block, in each ofwhich is secured acrank, z and e', which, as above described, projects through the cam-slots a3 in the needle-bars c and t'. A hand-wheel, 21, for slowly turning shaft c, is secured to one ot' said cranks. Upon said shaft c, between said vertical posts 17 in frame B,is secured a grooved pulley, d, around which a proper band runs to give motion to said shaft. Thus pulley dis the driving-pulley, and has a camlgroove, d2, cut in one side thereof, which receives the end cfa roller-stud secured to-the side (near its end) of the horizontal arm of the elbow-lever f, the latter being pivoted to the i'ulcrum-hlocl c2 on the front plate, E, as in Fig. 7. Said Fulcrum-block is provided with several pivot-holes, and said elbow-lever is provided With coinciding holes, whereby the fulcrum-point of leverj'may be changed by changing the position of the pivot-pin 22, and thereby such a change may be ei'ected in the length ot' the movement of the upper end of the vertical arm of leverf as may be desired to produce a longer or shorter feed in the machine, as will be hereinafter more fully set forth. Said shaft chas xed thereomin addition to pulley d, the presser-foot cam b and the take-up cam a.
The oscillating frameB is provided with two trunnions a2 one located at each end of thel loo lIO
the connecting-rod w. Thus, since the ful- Crum-point of said lever j' in block e2 is immovable on plate E, audits horizontal arm is vibrated vertically by its engagement with the cam-groove d2 in pulley d, vibratory movements ofits vertical arm cause frame B to oscilj', as above described.
late, as aforesaid.
It will be seen that the needles' swing with frame B, and the exent of that swing to produce stitches of the desired length is determined by changing the fulcrum-point of lever The presser-footn is provided with two slots, as shown,through which the needles pass, and in which they swing in feeding, and is secured to the vertical presser-bar, which is supported in the studs o5 on the front plate, E. A block, m2, is secured on said presser-bar, and aspriug, fm., is placed on thelatter between said block and the lower stud, oi', whereby the presser bar and foot are forced upward. A presser-bar lever, i2,
.Y is hung by the side of the stud v2 on said front plate. ()ne end of said lever, in which is a friction-roll, as shown, extends over cam b on shaft c .and its opposite end bears upon the top side of said block m2 on the presser-bar, so that once in each revolution of shaft c, and as often as a s'titch is made by the needles, the presser-foot is depressed to free the fabric, so that it may be freely fed along by the needles. rIhe take-up 0 is pivoted to frame A in the rear of the oscillating frame B, its vertical arm being provided with a suitable thread-guiding roll. One arm of said take-up reaches within frame B, and extends over the cam a on shaft c, whereby the requisite swing of said take-up to properly draw the thread is e'ected. j
'lhe arm Jof themachine, attached, as aforesaid, to the rear end of the frame A, extends over to a point nearly over the center of the presser-foot, and to the end thereofis fixed the vertical cloth-plate stand H, whose lower end terminates in two feet, as .shown in Fig. 2, to which issecured the cloth-plate K, having an opening therein to permit the needles to pass up through. For sewing ordinary butted or lapped seam work, which requires no binding, the. machine is operated with the 'parts thereof constructed and arranged as above described; but when a heavy fabric is to be operated uponsuch as that which enters into the fabrication of blankets and such similar goods-other and additional attachments are employed with the machine, as hereinafter described.
In sewing the aforesaid simple butted and lap seam work the machine is operated as follows: Connection by ordinary band with the driving-pulley d may be made with any con- -venient foot-power or other driving mechanism. Any convenient treadle attachment may be made with .the lower-end of the presser-foot shaft, whereby the presser-foot may be drawn down away from the cloth-plate for the purpose of inserting work therebetween, or'for -other purposes. 1f the parts to be united are to have a lap-seam sewed,one edgeis laid upon the other between the presser-foot and the .cloth-plate, carrying their ends forward, so that the needles will pierce them when they tirst pass upward. The thread is passed around a tensionroller, o7, in the ordinary way, thence over a thread-roller, 90, on frameB, (see Fig. 1,) thence back over a roller on the take-up, and thence through the eye of the needlex, a loose end being left, as usual. After the work has been properly placed in the machine, shaft c may be slowly turned by seizing the handwheel 21 to ascertain that all parts are properly adjusted to the work, when the machine may bc started at full speed.
1n sewing, the cranks z z', operating in the cam-slots in the needle-bars c t', ca'rrysaid bars and their needles upand down. Theeyed needle moves up and pierces the faliric,'liist carrying the thread considerably above thetop ofthe fabric. The hook-needle follows and pierces the fabric, and the needles stand crossing each other, but the eyed needle having started -down beforel the hook-needle cross 1t, a loop is formed 0n the side of thefoimer, which the hook-needle passes upthrongh and attaches itself to, and as the eyed needle draws down out of the fabric said loop becomes engaged with the hook-needle and is by it drawn down through-the fabric, where. after the next loop is formed, it is cast oif by the operation of the parts above-described iu the usual way. Previous to the time during the above-described sewing opera-tion when both needles leave the fabric cam b and lever t2 operate to press down' the presser-foot, relieving the fabric from pressure, and thenthe cam-groove d2 acts onvthe elbow-lever] to lift the end of its horizontal arm, and thus swing the Lipper end of frame B toward the front plate, E, which causes the needles to draw the fabric along or to feed it, when the needles draw quite down and swing back and repeat the abovedescribed operations. The action of the take-up o', which is operated directly by the ea-m ce on shaft c, is of be pressed together and held down to a properl positionjust before they encounter the needles. As above' alluded to, the operator on this machine stands atthe rear end thereof and guides the work away from him toward the front of the machine, the arm J of the machine pointing from him and standing between his arms.
In sewing the before-mentioned heavy blanket-work, making what is termed the back seam, (which, with its binding, is illustrated in Fig. 11,) the feller 5 and gage '5 are used jointly, and the presser-foot, having the bind- IOO IIO
ISO
ing-perforation and the binding-tension c2, Fig. 6, is used.. A presser-foot of the same construction is shown in Fig. 5. The seam'illustrated in Fig. 12 may be sewed in the manner described last by drawing the binding away from the presser-foot. The binding c3 is drawn from a roll under the machine, as in Fig. 1, being led up over a guide, where a tensionspi ing, 15, bears upon it, thence under a guideroll, and thence n p through the presser-footwl and under the binding-tension c2, of elastic metal, adjustable to press with greater or less force upon the binding, and thence over the face of the presser-foot to a position where the needles will penetrate itat the same time they do thefabric. 1t will be seen that as the fabric and binding are fed along together to be sewed the binding is kept straight and smooth by the action of tension c2 upon it.
In arranging for sewing said back seam the feller 5 is secured to the presser-foot, as in Fig. 1, and the gage 5 is secured to the clothplate. Said feller 5 is illustrated on an enlarged scale in Fig. 9, and is constructed with a dat plate-shaped base, 23, from which is folded, in a flat tubular tapering form, one edge of the plate to form an elliptic-shaped t'eller,with one edge of the plate 24interposed between said base and the upper side ot' said feller. A slotted arm, 25, is attached to one side thereof, through which screws pass to secure the attachment to the presser-foot. The gage 5,5- is bent, as shown, to correspond somewhat to the curve of the side of said feller. Fig. 10 illustrates, looking from the operatoi-s standpoint, as above described', the rear end of said feller and guide and the positions of both edges of the blanket as it is being guided and fed therethrough preparatory to being sewed, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. It will be observed that whatis termed the outside ofthe work is carried next to the presserfoot.
Figs. 13, 14, and l5 illustrate a seaming attachment adapted to be used in making with this machine such seams as are illustrated in Figs. 16 and 17,v which may be of a simple single-edge fold or a center seam, as shown in Fig. 17. In both of these cases the binding is usedl when the fabric is not of strong quality, to prevent the edges from pulling oli'. Said seamer, Fig. 13, consists of a base-plate, 26, having a turned-up side, 28, at right angles to the former, and of a cover-plate, 27, parallel to the face of plate 26, and connected to the latter by a vertical side, 2S), whereby a fabric passage is formed between plates 26 and 27, and between the edge of the latter and said right-angled side 28, so that the edge ot' the fabric may be folded over the edge of said plate 27, the edge thereof lying between plates 26 and 27, as in Figs. 14 and 15. Said attachment isprovided with the usual slotted arni, 30, whereby it may be secured to the presser-foot n, and is slightly raised above the latter by a block, 31, to permit, if desired, of passing the edge of a piece ot' fabric under plate 26, so as to form a seam such as is illustrated in Fig. 17.
In adapting this machine to sew tubular work, as illustrated in Fig. 21, the tube-arm L `is substituted for the arm J of the machine,
and a cloth plate, K, is secured to the under side of the end thereof', as shown. A tubeseamer, 10, of cylindrical form, but having an edge attached to one side thereof and carried under the former and bent in the shape of an S, to form two seamer-guides, is attached to the end of said arm L, and a folding-ring, 12, encircles said cylindrical seamer, leaving room between the two for the fabric 13 to pass. Said fabric is in the form of a band, and being passed around the part 10 and within ring 12, with its edges inserted in the S-shaped guides 11, it is drawn out beyond the end ot' arm L, so that the vneedles may pierce it, when the latter will, as the machine is operated, continue to sew and drawthefabric along through said guide parts and deliver it in the form of a tube, as shown in Fig. 21.
The above-described sewing devices are peculiarly adapted to sew the strong, firm seams required in the manufacture of sails and like work.
I do not claim the various guiding and feeding devices other than that shown in Fig. 1, as the same may constitute subjects of separate applications; but l have shown and described the same to illustrate different operations with the machine set forth.
What I claim as my invention is- 1. In a needle-feed sewing-machine, an oscillating frame to carry two needle-bars at an angle to each other, and having trunnions thereon whereby it is pivoted to the machine, a driving-shaft hung in said oscillating frame, and appliances, substantially as described, t'or rotating said shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame and shaft, all com-l bined and operating substantially as set forth.
2. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, of an oscillating needle-bar frame, hung on trunnions in the frame of the niachine, two needle-bars located on said oscillating frame at angles to each other, each having a cam-slot therein, adriving-shaft hung iu said oscillating frame, and having cranks thereon to engage in said cam-slots in said needlebars, and mechanism, substantially as described, for rotating said shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame, needlebars, and shaft, substantially as set forth.
3. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, ot an oscillating needle-bar frame hung on trunnions iu the frame of the ma chine, two needle-bars located on said oscillating frame at angles to each other, each having a cam-slotV therein, a driving-shaft hung in said oscillating frame, and having -cranks thereon to engage in said cam-slots in said needle-bars, appliances, substantially as described, for rotating said shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame, needlebars,and shafts,a presser-foot supported upon a bar having supports in the frame of the machine, and means, substantially as described, whereby the said presser-foot is caused to have an intermittent vertical motion by the rotation of said driving-shaft, substantially as set forth.
4. Inaneedle-feed sewing-machine, an oscillating needle-.bar frame hung upon truunions in the frame ot' the machine, two needlebars, each having a cam-slot therein, and each carrying a needle located on said oscillating frame at angles to each other, a driving-shaft hung in said oscillating frame, having two cranks thereon engaging in said cam-slots in said needle-bars, a take-up pivoted to the frame of the machine, and having an arm thereon extending over said driving-shaft, a cam fixed on said shaft to strike the arm of said take-up, and means, substantially as described, for rotating said driving-shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame, needle-bars, and shaft, all combined and operating substantially as set forth.
.5. ln combination, the oscillating needlebar frame hung on trunnions in the frame of the machine, a driving-shaft hung in said frame, a driving-pulley fixed on said shaft, and having a cam-groove formed in its side, an elbow-lever pivoted adjustably to a fixed stud on the machine, having its horizontal arm engaging with said cam-groove in said` driving-pulley and its vertical arm connected to said oscillating frame, substantially as set forth.
6. In combination, the hook-needle bar i, the hook-needle x', the cast-off bar o, cast-off t', and the stop 1, having an inclined face and secured adjiustab-l y to t-he bar t', substantially as set forth.
7. In combination, the frame B, the needlebars e and t', standing at an angle to each other and their needles, the cast-oft' bar o, and casto if fo, the adjustingstop r, and the guide s on said needle-bar t', spring o2, and a-ppliances,
of the 'feller 5, attached to said presser-foot, and the gage 5g, secured to said cloth-plate,
substantially as set forth.
9. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, of an oscillating needle-bar frame hung on trunnions in the frame ot' the machine, two needle-bars, with their needles located on said oscillating frame at-angles to each other, each of said bars having a camslot therein, a driving-shaft hung4 in said oscillating frame, and having cranks thereon to engage in said cam-slots in said 4needle-bars, appliances, substantially as described, for rotating said shaft and for imparting an oscillating motion to said frame, needle-bars, and shaft, a presser-foot supported upon a bar having supports in the frame of the machine, and opera-ting mechanism, and a cloth-plate supported in axed position above said presserfoot, substantially as set forth.
10. The within-described improved feller and gage 5 and 5, consisting of the flat bascplate 23, from which is folded in a fiat, tubular, tapering form one edge of said lplate to form an elliptic-shaped feller, with one edge, 24, of said plate interposed between said baseplate 23 and the upper side of said feller, and the curved gage 5g, combined and operating substantially as set forth.
JAMES H. MORLEY.
Writnesses:
C. S. PARKHURST, H. A. GHAPIN.
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