US253915A - Champs - Google Patents

Description

`(Model.) 0. L. DESCHAMPS.

MACHINE. -FoR PURLING MANUPAGTURED LAGES, aw.

'P @tented P613. 21,1882.

No.l 253,915.

Away@ l N. PETERS, Pham-ulhngmpner. wnsningmn, D. C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

OCTAVE L. DESCHAMPS, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

MACHINE FOR PURLING MANUFACTURED LACES, 80C.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 253,915, dated February 21, 1h882.

Application filed April 8, 1881. (Model.) Patented in France October 16, 1879, and in England October 23, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Oo'rAvn LEON DEs- CHAMPS, of Paris, in the Republic of France,

have invented an Improved Machine tor Purling Manufactured Tulles,Valenciennes, Laces, Embroidery, and other such like Articles, (for whichIhave obtained Letters Patent of France for fteen years, dated October 16, 1879, No. 133,212;) and I do hereby declare that the following'is a full andexact description thereof, reference being iliade to the accompanying drawings.

The machine I'ormin g the subject of the present invention is intended to produce an imitation of purling upon manufactured lace, valenciennes, embroidery, tuiles, and consequently to obviate the application to the said articles of real purling made by machinery. By the said invention a very close imitation of real purled lace is obtained and a very con siderable economy of material is eected. The mechanism by which the purling is produced is attached to the head of any ordinary sewing-machine, and receives from the said sewing-machine the movements necessary for its operation. lt will be understood from the following description that the invention may be applied, with suitable modilications, to any sewing-machine.

Figure 1 is a front elevation, Fig. 2 an end view, and Fig. 3 an inner face view, of a sewing-machine having my attachment. Figsnt and 5 are detail vertical sections on linea w, Fig. 2, showing lever Z in different positions.

Upon the face-plate a at the head of a sewing-machine is affixed by screws or otherwise a plate, b, which carries the purling apparatus. This plate has an upright groove in which it guides a slide, c, which is moved upward at each upward movement of the needle-bar d by the latter, or a projection thereof, coming against a regulating-screw, e, in the said slide c. The slide cis drawn downward by a spring, f, and is furnished at its lower extremity with a spring-pawl, g, which engages into the teeth of a ratchet-wheel, 7L, and converts the vertical up-and-down motion of the slide into intermittentrotary motion of said rachet-wheel 71.. The ratchet-wheel his hung upon an axis that is supported by the plate b, and is retained by a pawl, h', acted upon by the spring h2, and

thereby prevented from turning backward while the pawl y, which is pressed by the spring g', is making its downward stroke. To the inner face of the ratchet-wheel 7L is Vfixed a starever form and dimensions of ,the purl it is desired to produced.

l is a hook-shaped lever pivoted by a pin, o', in bearings o, that are fastened to the lower end of the plate a or head of the machine. The lever Z has at its upper end a rounded projection, o2, which is struck by a pinor pro jection, p, on the needle-bar d during the ascent of the letter. This causes the lower end of the lever to be thrown inward, as in Fig. 5. The oscillation inward of the lower extremity of the lever throws the purling-thread beyond the path of the needle and back of the presserfoot, and causes it to be taken by the pur] ingneedle, or to be stretched thereon.

A spring, o3, throws the lever l outward as soon as the needle-bar begins to descend.

The vertical slide c is raised more or less by the needle-bar d, according to the adjustment of the regulating-screw e. n

The fall of the slide c is limited and regulated by another adj listing-screw, o, carried in a projection of the carrier-plate b, upon which a stop, c', on the slide comes to rest.

A second screw, c', prevents the slide from being raised too high under the impetus given it by the needle-bar.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The thread F, intended to form the purling, is supplied in the ordinary manner to the needle A, the movements of which are combined with those of the shuttle, as usual. The arrangements for making the stitches are the same as if the new mechanism did not exist, but with this single difference, that at each stitch the thread is thrown inward by the aforesaid lever l. Every upward movement IOO of the needle-bar raises the slide c, and the latter, by its pawl g, turns the ratchet-wheel h one or more teeth. The object of this rotation of the ratchet-wheel is to gradually move outward the slide k, which carries the purling-nee' dle. When the slide 7c is at the extremity of one of the teeth of the star-wheel r its farthest outward motion is reached. On the tooth passing the slide the latter is immediately carried inward by the spring z', and the purling-needle thereby brought over the sewing madebytheordinaryneedle. Thepurling-needle in this movement gathers the thread which surrounds it to contribute to the formation of the neXt stitch.

According as the vertical slide c makes one, two, three, four, or more np-and-down movements per. division of the star-wheel 1', the

4purls will be spaced one, two, three, four, or

other number of stitches apart.

By adjusting the regulating-screw c of the vertical slide, and by changing the ratchetwheel h and star-wheel r, the purls may be formed more or less widely apart, and may have more or less stitches of sewing between them.

If the thread be twisted, a twisted purl may be obtained. If the needle 'takes several threads, whether of the same shade or not, the purl will be formed of several threads, similarly shaded or not, and if the twist of the threads diifers entirely, new eifeets may be produced.

This machinery may be easily utilized for the manufacture of purl-chenille.

Having now described the nature of the said invention and the manner in which the same is to be or may be carried into effect, I would have it understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details bereinbefore de scribed, as they may be varied as to form, material, dimensions, and arrangements, according to the kind of sewing-machine employed and the nature of the work to be done; but

What I claim as my invention is-` 1. The purling attachment to sewing-machines, consisting of the combination ofthe slide e, pawl g, ratchet-wheel h, and star-wheel r, with the slide 7c, purling-needle u, and oscil latin g lever l, substantially as herein described.

2. The combination of the pivoted lever l, which is suspendedin front of the needle and has the projection o2, with the needle-bar d, having projection p, and with the spring 03, all arranged to vibrate the lever at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is fed, substantially as herein shown and described.

3. The slide e, having projection c', in combination with screws c and c, and with the needlebar d, for operation substantially as herein shown and described.

o. L. DESCHAMPS.

Witnesses:

A. BL'IRY, ACH. JoLnnr.

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