US252799A - richard - Google Patents

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US252799A
US252799A US252799DA US252799A US 252799 A US252799 A US 252799A US 252799D A US252799D A US 252799DA US 252799 A US252799 A US 252799A
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lever
needle
arm
spring
cam
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B27/00Work-feeding means
    • D05B27/10Work-feeding means with rotary circular feed members
    • D05B27/18Feed cups

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  • WITNESSES Q g g l M/Maz, B i
  • This invention relates to a machine especially adapted to sewing the sweats or sweatleathers into hats, and as such it is herein illustrated and described; but it may also be employed for sewing carpets, t'urs, gloves, &c.
  • the arm hearing all the opera tive parts turns on the main shaft as a center without disarranging the mechanism, and the said mechanism may be operated with the arm upraised as well as when it is down.
  • a straight needle is employed, and this needle may be set to operate at any desired angle within limits.
  • the angular presser-foot is fixed rigidly with reference to the path of the needle, and the necessary play for the admission of materials of different thicknesses is accomplished by adjustments of the feed-wheel.
  • the looper twists the thread in forming the loop, and thus makes a compact stitch, and one resembling astitch made by hand.
  • Figure 1 is a plan of the machine.
  • Fig. 2 is a side elevation, showing the arm raised.
  • Fig. 2 is a detached fragmentary view, showing a part of the sweat-holder.
  • Fig. 3 is an elevation of the opposite side from Fig. 2, showing the arm down and in position for work.
  • Fig. 4 is arear elevation, some of the parts being in section.
  • Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation, the bed being in vertical mid-section and the arm in elevation.
  • Fig. 6 is a plan of the under side of the machine, showing the feed mech-
  • Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view, arranged to illustrate the stitch mechanism.
  • Fig. 8 is a plan of the same.
  • Figs. 9 and 10 are re spectively detached detail views,illustrating the construction of the tension and the looper.
  • Fig. ll is a vertical section of the sweat-holder, taken in the plane of the line 11 11 in Fig. 12.
  • Fig. 12 is a horizontal section of the sweatholder, taken in the plane
  • a repreent a table upon which the machine rests;
  • B the hollow bed or base of the machine, provided by preference with hinges a a for securing it to the table; and
  • b a springcatch,'hinged in the table and arranged to take over a flange or lug, 0, on the bed B and hold it down.
  • 0 is a bearing block or post fixed rigidly to the bed B, and provided with bearings to receive the main .driving-sluitt't D.
  • E is the driving-wheel.
  • F is the needle driving ca n
  • G is the looper-driving cam.
  • H is the arm of the machine, which bears all the stitclrt'orming mechanism, as well as the prcsser-t'oot and roller and the sweat-leather holder.
  • This arm is mounted on a boss, (I, (see Fig. 4,) on the post 0, which embraces the driving-shaft and is concentric therewith, so that the arm, when raised and lowered, plays radially around the shaft.
  • I To clamp the arm frictionally againstthe shoulder of the boss d, I provide a washer, c, secured to the boss at by means ot'screws f.
  • the arm is secured against accidental lilting when down by means of a bolt, g, Fig. 5, which engages a suitable re cess or socket in the fixed post 0.
  • This bolt is connected by means of a link, h, Fig. 2, with a lifting lever, I, mounted on the arm.
  • the arm is to be lifted the first pressure on the lifting-lever is to draw the bolt, and acontinuance of the pressure lifts the arm and its attached mechanism.
  • the bolt is pressed into its socket by means of a spring, 6, coiled around a stud or screw, j.
  • a U-shaped frame, 70 to which is rigidly tixed a right-angular presserfoot, I.
  • This foot takes over theangle formed by the brim of the hat with its crown and forms the abutment to receive the pressure of the feed-wheel J.
  • a pendent pressure roller, K which bears against the sweat-leather and keeps it in place while being stitched fast.
  • the needle-actuating cam F has a groove (see dotted lines in Fig. 2) ot the proper form to give the needle the irregular reciprocating movement required, and in this groove plays a pin on a connecting-rod, L.
  • This rod has a slot in its broader end, through which passes the main shaft 1), a block on the shaft having bearings in the slot in a wellknown way.
  • the other end of the rod L is connected to a reciprocating nerdle-bar, 0, by means of awrist or stud.
  • M is a plate secured adjustably to the arm II by means of screws 11 p, and in a socket or bore of this plate the needle-bar plays, the connection with the rod L being made through a slotattheback.
  • needleq which is straight, is fixed in its socket in the bar by means of a screw in the usual way. totation of the cam F imparts an irregular reciprocating motion to the needle.
  • the looper-actuating cam G has a groove (seen best in Fig. 3) ot the proper form to give the looper its required irregular longitudinal reciprocating movement.
  • this groove plays a pin on a connecting-rod, N, similar in structure to the rod which actnates the needle bar, except that it is adjustable as to length by means of a couplingnut, a, theobject of which will be more fully hereinafter explained.
  • the rod N is coupled to one end of a rocking lever, O, mounted on the plate M, and the other end of said lever is coupled to a looperbar, P, to which is attached a looper, s, of peculiar construction.
  • the looperbar is coir nected at t by a wrist-pin with an arm of a rockiuglever, Q, mounted also on plate M.
  • the fulcrumsot' the levers O and Q being respectively above and below the looper-bar 1, it will be seen that the looper in itslongitudinal travel must move in a vertical curve.
  • the looper s is pivoted to its bar at a, and its shank 0, back of the pivot, is pressed out or away from the bar by a spring, to, as shown in Fig. 8.
  • An arm, at, on the lever Q has a beveled cam, y, on its inner faceadjacent to the shank cof the looper, whereby, when the machine is in operation, the said shank is pressed in toward the looperbar and the looper is thrown out, as will be well understood.
  • a wiper-arm, 2, on the lever Q also acts at the proper time to press thelooper-shank back slightly as it passes over an adjustableprojection or screw-head, a, 011 the shank.
  • R represents in general the spool of thread and its holder, and S the tension.
  • T is the take-up lever for the thread. Its peculiar construction, functions, and operation will be described in connection with the operation of the machine.
  • the thread b is led from the spool through the tension S, a wire loop,
  • U, Fig. 7, representsa hat into which a sweat or sweat-leather, e, is to be stitched.
  • the sweat is fed from a holder, V, which will be described more particularly hereinafter.
  • the needle starts back, and, actuating the take-up. lever, causes the latter to draw the loop snugly around the spirally-grooved neck 9 of the looper.
  • lhe take-up lever T is mounted on the plate M at h, and its rear end is provided with a peculiarly-formed cam, i, having several faces, numr05 bored 1, 2, 3, and 4, which are acted upon by an angular pin, j, on the needle-bar, wherebythe take-up is controlled and actuated by the movements of the needle.
  • the lever T is held in its normal position, as in Fig. 3, by means no of a flat spring, is, which presses upon the fiattened lower face of the lever.
  • the needle-bar in drawing back, causes the pin j to strike the cam-face l on the cam t", and to thus throw the frontend of the take-up lever down far enough I 15 to draw the loop around the neck of the looper.' The latter, bearing the loop, now draws back, moving in a vertical are, and it is caused to pass obliquely over the needle to the right side by the pressure of the cam y on the shank v of the looper.
  • I provide, by prel'erence, a guide pin, l, fixed in the footl at the lelt of the needles path. The moment the advancing needle passes through the loop and its point enters the material of the hat the looper begins its forward move ment; but as this movement is in a curve upward, I so arrange the parts that the wiperarm 2 shall at this instant pass downover the projection a on the shank 1;, so as to throw the looper out to the right, and thus clear the needle as it lifts and drops theloop.
  • the needlebar -in its movement forward, first brings the pin j into contact with face 2 ot' the cam t" in the take up lever, thus throwing the end of the same up and drawing the loop snugly around the looper, so that the needle-point may the more surely pass through it, and then, when the point is firmly entered and the looper has lifted out of the loop, the said pin j strikes the face 3 of the cam and throws the take-up to its full height, so as to draw all the slack lillt ad up properly.
  • the pin j moves on, and, playing down the face at of the cam, allows the'slack of the thread to go toward forming the nextstitch.
  • ⁇ V is the feed actuating eccentric, fixed on the main shaft D. This eccentric'acts upon the upper extremity of a lever, X, pivoted to the bed B at m.
  • a connecting-mod, Y which passes into the hollow base B, where its other end is coupled to a lever, a, which is fulcrumexl at 0 on an elastic expanding ring, Z, w hich is sprung into an internal recess in the inner periphery'of the feed-wheel.
  • This ring is cut so that it may be expanded and contracted, and when expanded it presses tightly against the feed-wheel. It may or may not rest in a recess in said wheel.
  • the lever it has a shorter arm, 1), whichis coupled to one end of a toggle-link, q, the other end of said toggle being coupled to the opposite end of the ring Z.
  • This arrangement is such that when the rod Y is drawn back by the action of the feed-eccentric W the ring Z will be expanded and the feed-wheel rotated by reason of its frictional contact with the said ring.
  • a spring, 0' mounted on said rod and arranged to engage a pin in the expanding ring Z, insures the contraction of the latter.
  • the rod Y is driven forward and the lever X held up to the feed-eccentric by means of a device best shown in Fig. 2.
  • a rod, s, coupled to the lever X passes through a lug or stan lard, t, on the bed B,-and a coil-spring, u, encircles said rod between said standard I. and a head on the. extremity of the rod.
  • the tendency of this spring is to draw the lever X up toward the eccentric ⁇ V, and when the eccentric presses the lever back the spring is compressed.
  • I employ this device also to regulate the amount of movement-of thelever X, and consequently the length of the stitch. This is done by means of a milled nut, c, on the rods, which is screwthreaded .to receive it. By running this nut down against the standard t the lever X may be made to stand normally at'any desired distance from the relative axis of the eccentric so that it will be moved a greater or less distance by the said eccentric, as will bewell understood.
  • the feed-wheel rotat es on an axis, screwed into a supporting-boss on a lever, A, which lever has arms be, with pins at their ends,'that find bearings in cross slots or grooves in disks y", axially pivoted in the bed of the machine at z.
  • the lever A has a lug or shoulder, 0 arranged to engage an eccentric or cam, d axially mounted in the bed of the machine, and provided with an operative crank or handle, 0 as shown.
  • a rod,f which passes obliquely upward and out at the back of the bed B.
  • This rod passes through a tubular collar, which plays in an aperture in the base and abutsagainstaflatsiiit'spring-plate,1: secured to the standard or post 0 at
  • a spring, j coiled around the rod f which spring tends to to: ce the feed-wheel forward against the material being stitched, so as to press it against the foot I, and it is compressed by the operation ot' the cam (1 B is a thumb-screw, which passes through the spring-plate 7L2, and serves to regulate the.
  • This obiiqnity of movement is caused by the bearingpins of the lever A, which rest in said grooves in the manner of shifting fulcrumpoints, playing up the inclineof the grooves.
  • I provide a friction-lirake, 79, preferably of wood, arranged to press upon the lower face of the teed-wheel rim.
  • I interpose a leaf spring, l and arrange a set-screw, m which passes through the lever A to bear upon said spring, and thus keep the brake pressed frictionally and elastically against the wheel.
  • the spool-holder which is shown in section in Fig. 4, consists of a stemnt which is screwed into an upright, 0 on the arm H.
  • a disk,p is slipped over the stem, and a cal-spring, g encircles the boss of the disk and abuts at the endsagainst said disk and the uprighto'
  • Another (IISI(,T'2, having a coned collar and a split tubular stem, 8 is slipped over the stem a the disk abutting against a soft washer, F, interposed between the disks, and the outer end of the split stem abutting against a button on the end of the stem n
  • Fig.9 is a longitudinal mid-section of the tension device on an enlarged scale.
  • This consists of a stem, a fixed to the arm H. On this stem is fixed adiskm recessed to receive the end of a sleeve, w, which rotates on the stem. a milled flange, 00 A disk, g encircles the sleeve 20 and this disk is rigidly connected with the disk o by a cross-bar, 2 (Seen in Figs.
  • a nut, a screws onto the end of the stem a and a spring, 11 interposed between the said nut and the flange :0 keeps the sleeve pressed elastically and firmly up to the disk 41 It also prevents the sleeve from turning when the strain from the thread tends to rotate it.
  • Each disk has a notch, 0 (seen in Figs. 1, 2, and 3,) which engages the thread, while a hook or projection, d, on the sleeve 10 engages the bight of the crossing thread The rotation is effected by means of.
  • the cam Gr may be fixed on the shalt D by means of a set-screw; but I prefer to secure the cams F and W in the manner following:
  • the extremity of the shaft 1) is split by two cross'slits, and is axially bored and screw threaded to receive a slightlytape-red screw, 0 This screw serves to expand the end of the shaft and fit it tightly to the bore of the cam F.
  • the screw 6 serves also to hell in place the cam W; but to insure its proper adjustment on the shalt with reference to the cam F, I generally provide it with a pin at the back to engage ahole in the cam F.
  • Hat-sweats are generally cut from leather, and are often long, irregular at the edges, and diflicult to feed to the needle with regularity.
  • a stem, f on which over the part i slips a sleeve, 9 secured to the stem by a set screw.
  • This sleeve passes diametrically the supporting-stem h of the holder V.
  • This holder consists of two parts, one of which is removable from the other.
  • the upper part, to which the stem h is attached consists of a bottomless cylinder, i open down one side for the passage of the sweat-strip from the roll in the cylinder, and provided with a curved way or passage, 9' to lead the strip to the feeding-point.
  • the lower or removable part or cup, k is also cylindrical and made to slip This cylinder is open down one side to let the strip pass out, and itis connected to the upper cylinder by means of a suitable catch or spring-latch, 1
  • a suitable catch or spring-latch, 1 In the center of the cup is an upright guide-stem, m over which slips a sleeve, a having a disk,o on its lower end, which rests on a light coilspring, 19 in the bottom of the cup.
  • the sweat-strip e is made into a roll and slipped over the sleeve a so as to rest on the disk 0
  • the sleeve bearing the roll is inserted into the cup k and the latter pushed up over the cylinder i until caught and held by the catch 5
  • the end of the sweat-strip is now drawn through the passage j and adjusted between the presser-toot and the feed-wheel. WVhen the sweat-strip is drawn out'ot' the holder by the feed its upper edge is kept at the proper level by the inclined top or cover of the passagej and any inequalities in width are compensated by the yielding of the spring in the cup under the roll.
  • the spring, whereit presses upon the strip, is made to incline a trifle upward toward the outlet of the passagej so as to overcome the tendency of the strip to work down as it pays out.
  • I may employ a roller in lieu of said spring or mount aroller on its end to bear on the strip; or I may make the sides of the'passage to press elastically upon the strip at the proper point. I do not wish 'to limit myself to any specific form of tension on the strip.
  • An overstitching-machine having an arm which bears the stitch-forming mechanism and the presser-foot, arranged to swing or turn radially in a vertical plane on the main or cam shaft independently of the feeding mechanism, and having the feeding mechanism arranged in the non-moving bed'npon which the said swinging arm is mounted, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
  • a sweat-holder, V having a central guide-stem, m a sleeve which slips over said stem and has a disk secured to its lower end, a spring under said disk to elastically support it, and an inclosing case or cup with an outlet for the end of the strip, all arranged substantially as shown, whereby the sweat-strip which is wound on the sleeve may be properly fed to the needle, substantially as set forth.
  • the spool-holder comprising a stem with a button at its free extremity, a split tubular sleeve 01' eollaron the stem to receive the spool,
  • a spring to keep the sleeve pressed up to the button on the stem, and a disk on the stem interposed between the spring and a disk on the split sleeve, and a soft washer interposed between said disks, all combined and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
  • the tension device comprising a stem, fixed disks 0 and tied together by a bar and having notches c, a sleeve, 10, coned as described, its one end turning in a recess in the disk t and the other bearing a flange, w", the hook or projection on the sleeve to engage the bight of the thread, the nut a, and the spring I), all combined and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.

Description

(Model.)
WITNESSES:
amfiW 7 Sheets-Sheet 1.
J. E. RIGHL XRD. V OVERSTITGHING MACHINE.
g Patented Jan. 24,1882.
l NVE NTO R By his Attorneys,
%, 04W mwmzz,
N ETERS Phnlu-Lilhugmpher. Washington. D. c.
7 Sheets-Sheet OVERSTITGHING MAGHINE.
No. 252,799. q Patented Ja11.24,1882.
N. PETERs. Pholo-Liflwgraphnn Waahingtfln. D12.
(ModeL) 7 Sheets-Sheet; 3.
J. E. RICHARD.
OVBRSTITGHING MACHINE.
No. 252,799. Patented Jan. 24,1882.
INVENTOR:
WITNESSES: X3 KKOM By his Attorneys,
N. PETERS. Phclo-Lilhognphnr. Washington. D. C.
(ModeL) 7 Sheets-Sheet 4.
J. E. RICHARD.
OVERSTITOHING MACHINE.
Patented Jan. 24,1882.
WITNESSES: g
l e WIZAEW By his Attorneys,
N. PErEns. Pholo-Lilhographcr. Washin ton. D. C.
(ModeL) T Sheets-Sheet 6 I J. E. RICHARD.
OVERSTITOHING MACHINE.
WITNESSES:
Patented Jan. 24,18 82.
" um-m k INVENTOR:
wv SQQSM By his Attorneys,
N. PETERS. Phulo-Lnlhngrap er 1s m (on (ModeL) 7 SheetsSheet 7.
J. E. RICHARD.
OVERSTITGHING MAGHINE.
No. 252,799. Patented Jan. 24,1882.
INVENTOR: WITNESSES: Q g g l M/Maz, B i
1 ZS orneys N. PETERS Pnawulhn n hw, Washingion. n. C.-
- anism.
UNTTEE STATES PATENT @E'Etti' JEAN E RICHARD, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 252,799, dated January 24, 1832.
Application filed April 4, 1881. (Mo-.lel.)
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, JEAN E. RICHARD, a citizen of the United States, residing-in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Overstitching Machines, of which the following is a specification.
' This invention relates to a machine especially adapted to sewing the sweats or sweatleathers into hats, and as such it is herein illustrated and described; but it may also be employed for sewing carpets, t'urs, gloves, &c.
Some of the peculiar features of my machine are as follows: The arm hearing all the opera tive parts (except the feed) turns on the main shaft as a center without disarranging the mechanism, and the said mechanism may be operated with the arm upraised as well as when it is down. A straight needle is employed, and this needle may be set to operate at any desired angle within limits. The angular presser-foot is fixed rigidly with reference to the path of the needle, and the necessary play for the admission of materials of different thicknesses is accomplished by adjustments of the feed-wheel. The looper twists the thread in forming the loop, and thus makes a compact stitch, and one resembling astitch made by hand.
The many novel features of the mechanism will be hereinafter fully set forth.
In the drawings which serve to illustrate my invention, Figure 1 is a plan of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a side elevation, showing the arm raised. Fig. 2 is a detached fragmentary view, showing a part of the sweat-holder. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the opposite side from Fig. 2, showing the arm down and in position for work. Fig. 4 is arear elevation, some of the parts being in section. Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation, the bed being in vertical mid-section and the arm in elevation. Fig. 6 is a plan of the under side of the machine, showing the feed mech- Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view, arranged to illustrate the stitch mechanism. Fig. 8 is a plan of the same. Figs. 9 and 10 are re spectively detached detail views,illustrating the construction of the tension and the looper. Fig. ll is a vertical section of the sweat-holder, taken in the plane of the line 11 11 in Fig. 12. Fig. 12 is a horizontal section of the sweatholder, taken in the plane of the lines 12 12 in Fig. 11.
Let A repreent a table upon which the machine rests; B, the hollow bed or base of the machine, provided by preference with hinges a a for securing it to the table; and b, a springcatch,'hinged in the table and arranged to take over a flange or lug, 0, on the bed B and hold it down.
0 is a bearing block or post fixed rigidly to the bed B, and provided with bearings to receive the main .driving-sluitt't D.
E is the driving-wheel. F is the needle driving ca n, and G is the looper-driving cam.
H is the arm of the machine, which bears all the stitclrt'orming mechanism, as well as the prcsser-t'oot and roller and the sweat-leather holder. This arm is mounted on a boss, (I, (see Fig. 4,) on the post 0, which embraces the driving-shaft and is concentric therewith, so that the arm, when raised and lowered, plays radially around the shaft. To clamp the arm frictionally againstthe shoulder of the boss d, I provide a washer, c, secured to the boss at by means ot'screws f. The arm is secured against accidental lilting when down by means of a bolt, g, Fig. 5, which engages a suitable re cess or socket in the fixed post 0. This bolt is connected by means of a link, h, Fig. 2, with a lifting lever, I, mounted on the arm. hen
the arm is to be lifted the first pressure on the lifting-lever is to draw the bolt, and acontinuance of the pressure lifts the arm and its attached mechanism. The bolt is pressed into its socket by means of a spring, 6, coiled around a stud or screw, j.
To the end of the arm H is secured rigidly, but if desired adjustably, a U-shaped frame, 70, to which is rigidly tixed a right-angular presserfoot, I. This foot takes over theangle formed by the brim of the hat with its crown and forms the abutment to receive the pressure of the feed-wheel J. To the framek is also hung a pendent pressure roller, K, which bears against the sweat-leather and keeps it in place while being stitched fast. By refer ence to Figs. 5and 7 it will be seen that this roller is held in place by means of an elongated nut, m, the rounded end of which rests in acorresponding socket in the roller. This forms asort of balland-sochetjoint, whereby the roller is enabled to adjust itself to inequalities. To prevent too free a movement laterally, however, (which might cause the sweat-leather to move a-\vry,) I provide a cross-spring, a, secured at its center to the nutm, and its ends arranged to press upon the bottom end of theroller near its margin. This arrangement is best shown in Figs. 2 and 8.
I will now proceed to describe the stitch-producing mechanism, reftrring particularly to Figs..l,3,5, 7,and8. The needle-actuating cam F has a groove (see dotted lines in Fig. 2) ot the proper form to give the needle the irregular reciprocating movement required, and in this groove plays a pin on a connecting-rod, L. This rod has a slot in its broader end, through which passes the main shaft 1), a block on the shaft having bearings in the slot in a wellknown way. The other end of the rod L is connected to a reciprocating nerdle-bar, 0, by means of awrist or stud.
M is a plate secured adjustably to the arm II by means of screws 11 p, and in a socket or bore of this plate the needle-bar plays, the connection with the rod L being made through a slotattheback. Theneedleq, which is straight, is fixed in its socket in the bar by means of a screw in the usual way. totation of the cam F imparts an irregular reciprocating motion to the needle.
The looper-actuating cam G has a groove (seen best in Fig. 3) ot the proper form to give the looper its required irregular longitudinal reciprocating movement. In this groove plays a pin on a connecting-rod, N, similar in structure to the rod which actnates the needle bar, except that it is adjustable as to length by means of a couplingnut, a, theobject of which will be more fully hereinafter explained.
The rod N is coupled to one end of a rocking lever, O, mounted on the plate M, and the other end of said lever is coupled to a looperbar, P, to which is attached a looper, s, of peculiar construction. The looperbar is coir nected at t by a wrist-pin with an arm of a rockiuglever, Q, mounted also on plate M. The fulcrumsot' the levers O and Q being respectively above and below the looper-bar 1, it will be seen that the looper in itslongitudinal travel must move in a vertical curve. The looper s is pivoted to its bar at a, and its shank 0, back of the pivot, is pressed out or away from the bar by a spring, to, as shown in Fig. 8. An arm, at, on the lever Q has a beveled cam, y, on its inner faceadjacent to the shank cof the looper, whereby, when the machine is in operation, the said shank is pressed in toward the looperbar and the looper is thrown out, as will be well understood. A wiper-arm, 2, on the lever Q also acts at the proper time to press thelooper-shank back slightly as it passes over an adjustableprojection or screw-head, a, 011 the shank.
R represents in general the spool of thread and its holder, and S the tension. These possess novel features, but will be referred to more particular] y hereinafter.
T is the take-up lever for the thread. Its peculiar construction, functions, and operation will be described in connection with the operation of the machine. The thread b is led from the spool through the tension S, a wire loop,
0, attached to the tension, guide-loops d, an eye in the end of the take-up lever, and thence through an eye in the needlebar 0 to the needle.
U, Fig. 7,representsa hat into which a sweat or sweat-leather, e, is to be stitched. The sweat is fed from a holder, V, which will be described more particularly hereinafter.
Having set forth the construction of the machine thus far, I will now describe the operation.
The hat and the sweat to be stitched therein having been properly placed and the arm H let down, the driving-wheel is turned forward in the direction of the arrow, and the needle a dvancesand pierces obliquely through the angle of the hat and through the sweat. As it nears the end of its outstroke it passes (see Fig. 8) close to the left side of a stationary plate, f, fixed to the presser-foot Z. This plate, when the needle draws back slightly to form the loop, causes the loop to be thrown out wholly to the left side of the needle. hen the 5 loop has been formed the needle is arrested an instant to enable the looper to insert its curved tip down through the same. At the instant this is fairly accomplished the needle starts back, and, actuating the take-up. lever, causes the latter to draw the loop snugly around the spirally-grooved neck 9 of the looper. lhe take-up lever T is mounted on the plate M at h, and its rear end is provided with a peculiarly-formed cam, i, having several faces, numr05 bored 1, 2, 3, and 4, which are acted upon by an angular pin, j, on the needle-bar, wherebythe take-up is controlled and actuated by the movements of the needle. The lever T is held in its normal position, as in Fig. 3, by means no of a flat spring, is, which presses upon the fiattened lower face of the lever. The needle-bar, in drawing back, causes the pin j to strike the cam-face l on the cam t", and to thus throw the frontend of the take-up lever down far enough I 15 to draw the loop around the neck of the looper.' The latter, bearing the loop, now draws back, moving in a vertical are, and it is caused to pass obliquely over the needle to the right side by the pressure of the cam y on the shank v of the looper. As the looper reaches the end of its instrokeits tip, bearing the loop, drops down close to the path of the needle and at its right side, where it rests for an instant until the needle, which has been again advancing, inserts its point through the loop, passing in its movement close to the neck of the looper, and on through the loop as it is spread by the looper. This is illustrated very clearlyin the three enlarged views of the looper shownin 133 Fig. 10, wherein the view to the left shows the right side of the looper, that to the right the left side, and that in the center a rear view. These views show the peculiar spiral form of LII the neck g, whereby the loop is twisted and run off the point of the looper in turning.
To prevent the needle from being pressed to the left by the strain from the thread, I provide, by prel'erence, a guide pin, l, fixed in the footl at the lelt of the needles path. The moment the advancing needle passes through the loop and its point enters the material of the hat the looper begins its forward move ment; but as this movement is in a curve upward, I so arrange the parts that the wiperarm 2 shall at this instant pass downover the projection a on the shank 1;, so as to throw the looper out to the right, and thus clear the needle as it lifts and drops theloop. The needlebar,-in its movement forward, first brings the pin j into contact with face 2 ot' the cam t" in the take up lever, thus throwing the end of the same up and drawing the loop snugly around the looper, so that the needle-point may the more surely pass through it, and then, when the point is firmly entered and the looper has lifted out of the loop, the said pin j strikes the face 3 of the cam and throws the take-up to its full height, so as to draw all the slack lillt ad up properly. As the needle and looper advance to form the next loop and stitch the pin j moves on, and, playing down the face at of the cam, allows the'slack of the thread to go toward forming the nextstitch. The parts now resume their first positions and the movements just described are repeated. At. the moment the needle draws back out of the material the feed-wheel J advances the latter to receive the next stitch. This feed mechanism possesses some novel and peculiar features, which I will now describe, referring especially to Figs. 2, 4,
- 5, and 6 for illustration.
\V is the feed actuating eccentric, fixed on the main shaft D. This eccentric'acts upon the upper extremity of a lever, X, pivoted to the bed B at m. To this lever is coupled a connecting-mod, Y, which passes into the hollow base B, where its other end is coupled to a lever, a, which is fulcrumexl at 0 on an elastic expanding ring, Z, w hich is sprung into an internal recess in the inner periphery'of the feed-wheel. This ring is cut so that it may be expanded and contracted, and when expanded it presses tightly against the feed-wheel. It may or may not rest in a recess in said wheel. The lever it has a shorter arm, 1), whichis coupled to one end of a toggle-link, q, the other end of said toggle being coupled to the opposite end of the ring Z. This arrangement is such that when the rod Y is drawn back by the action of the feed-eccentric W the ring Z will be expanded and the feed-wheel rotated by reason of its frictional contact with the said ring. When the rod Y is thrown forward again a spring, 0', mounted on said rod and arranged to engage a pin in the expanding ring Z, insures the contraction of the latter. The rod Y is driven forward and the lever X held up to the feed-eccentric by means of a device best shown in Fig. 2.
A rod, s, coupled to the lever X, passes through a lug or stan lard, t, on the bed B,-and a coil-spring, u, encircles said rod between said standard I. and a head on the. extremity of the rod. The tendency of this spring is to draw the lever X up toward the eccentric \V, and when the eccentric presses the lever back the spring is compressed. I employ this device also to regulate the amount of movement-of thelever X, and consequently the length of the stitch. This is done by means of a milled nut, c, on the rods, which is screwthreaded .to receive it. By running this nut down against the standard t the lever X may be made to stand normally at'any desired distance from the relative axis of the eccentric so that it will be moved a greater or less distance by the said eccentric, as will bewell understood.
The feed-wheel rotat es on an axis, screwed into a supporting-boss on a lever, A, which lever has arms be, with pins at their ends,'that find bearings in cross slots or grooves in disks y", axially pivoted in the bed of the machine at z. The SCdl kS ale connected together, for convenience, by a tie, a and one ot' the axial pivots is provided with a crank or handle, I)", whereby the disks may be partially rotated on their common axis. The lever A has a lug or shoulder, 0 arranged to engage an eccentric or cam, d axially mounted in the bed of the machine, and provided with an operative crank or handle, 0 as shown. To the rear end of the lever A is fixed a rod,f which passes obliquely upward and out at the back of the bed B. This rod passes through a tubular collar, which plays in an aperture in the base and abutsagainstaflatsiiit'spring-plate,1: secured to the standard or post 0 at Between the collar and the end of thelever A is a spring, j coiled around the rod f which spring tends to to: ce the feed-wheel forward against the material being stitched, so as to press it against the foot I, and it is compressed by the operation ot' the cam (1 B is a thumb-screw, which passes through the spring-plate 7L2, and serves to regulate the. compression of the springj' by forcing in the collar g upon it; and O is a spring inserted between the said screw as an abutment and the extremity of the rodj' This spring serves to elastically depress the end of said rodv and the end of the lever A with which it is connected.
Having thus set fol th the construction of the mechanism connected with the l'eedwvheel, I will now describe its operation.
When the disks y are turned by the crank 1) until the bearing grooves in the same lie horizontally the rotation of the cam d by means ofthe crank 6 permits the l'eedwrheel J to move back and forth horizontally, the cam forcing it back and the spring 9' pressing it up elastically against the DItSStPlUOt l; but it'the disks 3 be so set that the grooves therein incline ob liquely upward, as shown in Fig. 5, the feedwheel will then be projected upward and forward at an angle corresponding to the angle at which said grooves in the disks 3/ are set.
This obiiqnity of movement is caused by the bearingpins of the lever A, which rest in said grooves in the manner of shifting fulcrumpoints, playing up the inclineof the grooves.
This construction of the feed-wheel mountings enables me to adjust it to any kind or thickness of materials within reasonable limits. In lieu of the rotating disks 9/, I might employ lixed horizontal grooves and raise the wheel by a downward elastic pressure on the rear end of the lever A; but I prefer the constiuction shown.
To prevent the feedavheel from turning backward with tl.e return movement of the ring Z, I provide a friction-lirake, 79, preferably of wood, arranged to press upon the lower face of the teed-wheel rim. Between this brake and the lever A, I interpose a leaf spring, l and arrange a set-screw, m which passes through the lever A to bear upon said spring, and thus keep the brake pressed frictionally and elastically against the wheel.
Other forms of brakes or detents might be employed; but I prefer that shown.
The spool-holder, which is shown in section in Fig. 4, consists of a stemnt which is screwed into an upright, 0 on the arm H. A disk,p is slipped over the stem, and a cal-spring, g encircles the boss of the disk and abuts at the endsagainst said disk and the uprighto' Another (IISI(,T'2, having a coned collar and a split tubular stem, 8 is slipped over the stem a the disk abutting against a soft washer, F, interposed between the disks, and the outer end of the split stem abutting against a button on the end of the stem n By screwing the stem a into the upright the spring (1 is slightly compressed and a very moderate tension is thrown upon the spool, which is slipped over the split stem 8 and thus held frictionally in place, the stem turning therewith as the spool rotates. This provides enough tension on the spool to prevent it from spinning round when the thread is suddenly jerked, and the spool will not slip otf when the machine is moved.
Fig.9 is a longitudinal mid-section of the tension device on an enlarged scale. This consists of a stem, a fixed to the arm H. On this stem is fixed adiskm recessed to receive the end of a sleeve, w, which rotates on the stem. a milled flange, 00 A disk, g encircles the sleeve 20 and this disk is rigidly connected with the disk o by a cross-bar, 2 (Seen in Figs. 1 and 9.) A nut, a screws onto the end of the stem a and a spring, 11 interposed between the said nut and the flange :0 keeps the sleeve pressed elastically and firmly up to the disk 41 It also prevents the sleeve from turning when the strain from the thread tends to rotate it. Each disk has a notch, 0 (seen in Figs. 1, 2, and 3,) which engages the thread, while a hook or projection, d, on the sleeve 10 engages the bight of the crossing thread The rotation is effected by means of.
ble that the movement of the' needle be horizontal,or much less inclined than herein shown. This adjustment of the needle I accomplish by means of the slotted plate M and screws pp, before referred to. The curve of the slots is drawn from a center co ncident with the junction of the horizontal and vertical portions of the presserfoot, and the proper adjustment of the plate will not affect the adjustment of the needle. It will, however, be necessary to alter the length of the connecting-rod N, which operates the looper, and this may be efiected by means of the tubular nut r. If the machine be intended for but one class of work, thisjoint in the rod N might be omitted, and the plate M might form an integral part of the arm H.
As I cannot bring the needle down so as to play horizontally, and it is sometimes desirable-as in sewing gloves and furs-that the needle shall move at right angles to the face of the feed-wheel, I accomplish this by substituting for the feed-wheel shown one in the form of an inverted conic trustum, and adjust the needle, as above described, to move at a right angle to its inclined face. I may then adjust the presser-foot to this incline, as will be readily understood.
The cam Gr may be fixed on the shalt D by means of a set-screw; but I prefer to secure the cams F and W in the manner following: The extremity of the shaft 1) is split by two cross'slits, and is axially bored and screw threaded to receive a slightlytape-red screw, 0 This screw serves to expand the end of the shaft and fit it tightly to the bore of the cam F. To insure the proper adjustment of the cam on the shaft and further guard against its rotation thereon, I preferalso to provide a key or feather in the bore to take into one of the slits in the shaft. The screw 6 serves also to hell in place the cam W; but to insure its proper adjustment on the shalt with reference to the cam F, I generally provide it with a pin at the back to engage ahole in the cam F.
Hat-sweats are generally cut from leather, and are often long, irregular at the edges, and diflicult to feed to the needle with regularity. To provide a suitable holder for a roll or strip to be stitched in, which holder will permitthc feed-wheel to supply the strip evenly and properly, is one of the most important features of my invention. This holder I will now describe with reference to Figs. 1, 2, 2", and 3.
To the extremityof the arm His secured, by preference adjustahly, a stem, f, on which over the part i slips a sleeve, 9 secured to the stem by a set screw. Through this sleeve passes diametrically the supporting-stem h of the holder V. This holder consists of two parts, one of which is removable from the other. The upper part, to which the stem h is attached, consists of a bottomless cylinder, i open down one side for the passage of the sweat-strip from the roll in the cylinder, and provided with a curved way or passage, 9' to lead the strip to the feeding-point. I prefer to form this passage by means of two curved metal plates, substantially as represented, connecting them at the top and sloping the top down, as shown. The lower or removable part or cup, k is also cylindrical and made to slip This cylinder is open down one side to let the strip pass out, and itis connected to the upper cylinder by means of a suitable catch or spring-latch, 1 In the center of the cup is an upright guide-stem, m over which slips a sleeve, a having a disk,o on its lower end, which rests on a light coilspring, 19 in the bottom of the cup. The sweat-strip e is made into a roll and slipped over the sleeve a so as to rest on the disk 0 The sleeve bearing the roll is inserted into the cup k and the latter pushed up over the cylinder i until caught and held by the catch 5 The end of the sweat-strip is now drawn through the passage j and adjusted between the presser-toot and the feed-wheel. WVhen the sweat-strip is drawn out'ot' the holder by the feed its upper edge is kept at the proper level by the inclined top or cover of the passagej and any inequalities in width are compensated by the yielding of the spring in the cup under the roll.
I prefer to apply a moderate tension to the strip near its upper edge as it passes out of the passage 3' and this I may provide in various well-known ways. I prefer, however, to make a slit or aperture in the inner wall of the passage and arrange a light spring, g to press upon the strip as it passes under said aperture, as shown in Fig. 2. The spring, whereit presses upon the strip, is made to incline a trifle upward toward the outlet of the passagej so as to overcome the tendency of the strip to work down as it pays out.
I may employ a roller in lieu of said spring or mount aroller on its end to bear on the strip; or I may make the sides of the'passage to press elastically upon the strip at the proper point. I do not wish 'to limit myself to any specific form of tension on the strip.
Having thus described my invention, I claim- 1. An overstitching-machinehavingits presser-foot rigidly fixed with reference to the path of the needle and a feedwheel arranged to be adjusted to and from the presser-foot, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
2. An overstitching-machine having an arm which bears the stitch-forming mechanism and the presser-foot, arranged to swing or turn radially in a vertical plane on the main or cam shaft independently of the feeding mechanism, and having the feeding mechanism arranged in the non-moving bed'npon which the said swinging arm is mounted, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
3. The combination, with the arm of the machine hearing the presser-foot, ot' the adjustable plate hearing the stitch-forming mechanism, arranged to be adjusted on the arm, substantiall y corresponding to a circle described from apoint coincident with the junction of the vertical and horizontal portions ot'the rightangular press'er-foot, whereby the angle of the path in which the needle plays may be varied with respect to the bed of the machine, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
4. The combination, with the arm bearing the stitch-forming mechanism and the presserfoot fixed rigidly thereto, ot' the feed-wheel having both a vertical and horizontal adjustment, substantially as set forth.
5. In an overstitching-machine adapted for stitchingin hat-sweats, a sweat-holder, V, having a central guide-stem, m a sleeve which slips over said stem and has a disk secured to its lower end, a spring under said disk to elastically support it, and an inclosing case or cup with an outlet for the end of the strip, all arranged substantially as shown, whereby the sweat-strip which is wound on the sleeve may be properly fed to the needle, substantially as set forth.
6. The combination, to form a looper mechanism for an overstitching-machine, of a cam, G, rod N, lever 0, bar P, lover Q, bearing camarms 00 and z, the looper pivoted to the bar P and having a shank, e, the projection to onthe said shank, and the spring to, all arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
7. The combination of the reciprocating needle-bar provided with a projection or pin,j, the take-up lever T, provided with a cam, 25, and a retaining-spring, arranged to press against the take-up lever and bring it back to its normal position, the pin on the needle-bar being arranged to engage the cam on one sidein making its back-stroke, and thus move the take-up in one direction, and to engage the cam on the opposite side in making its forward stroke and move the takenp in the opposite direction, all substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
8. The combination, to form a mechanism for giving the feed-wheel an intermittent rotary motion, of the said wheel, the expanding ring, the toggleor link q, the lever at, having an arm, p, the rod Y, the lever X, and the eccentric W, all constructed and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
9. The combination, with the feedwheeI, the expanding ring,and the mechanism forexpanding it, of the rod Y, lever X, eccentric W, stem .9, lug t, spring a, and nut v, forming a mechanism whereby the length of the stitch is reg ulated, all arranged substantially as set forth.
10. The combination ofthe feed-wheel moun t- IIO ed rotativel y on the lever-arm A, the said arm mounted on movable bearings y and provided with a stop for a cam, 01 to impinge against, the said cam arranged to move the arm A 1ongitudi'nally, and the spring j all constructed and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
, 11. Thecombination ofthefeed-wheelmounted rotatively on a lever-arm, A, the said arm mounted in grooves in the faces of revolving disks 3 a cam arranged to move the lever-arm A endwise, the spring 3' on the stem f the tubular collar 9 the abutting spring-plate [L2, provided with an adjusting-screw to increase the pressure on the plate [L2, and the spring 0, all arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
12. The combinatiomwith theradially-swinging arm H and the bearing-post O, of the bolt g, arranged to shoot into a recess in the post when the arm is down, thelever I, to draw the bolt when the arm is lifted, a suitable connecting-rod to connect the lever and bolt, and a suitable spring to keep the bolt pressed normally up to the post, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
13. The spool-holder comprising a stem with a button at its free extremity, a split tubular sleeve 01' eollaron the stem to receive the spool,
a spring to keep the sleeve pressed up to the button on the stem, and a disk on the stem interposed between the spring and a disk on the split sleeve, and a soft washer interposed between said disks, all combined and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
14. The tension device comprising a stem, fixed disks 0 and tied together by a bar and having notches c, a sleeve, 10, coned as described, its one end turning in a recess in the disk t and the other bearing a flange, w", the hook or projection on the sleeve to engage the bight of the thread, the nut a, and the spring I), all combined and arranged to operate substantially as set forth.
15. The holder V for the sweat-strip 0, provided with an outlet-passage,j having an elastic tension device to impinge upon the strip as itpasses out, the tip of the said tension device being arranged to incline upward, so as to pre vent the strip from woiking down, substantially as set forth. 1
In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
JEAN F. RICHARD. Witnesses:
LoUis J. RICHARD,
FRANCESCO VALENTE.
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