US427068A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

(No Mdl.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. Z. T. FRENCH & F. J. PREESE.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 427,068. Patented May 6. 1890.

m: uunm: PETERS ca, PHOTO-HIKE, WASHINGTON, u. c.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.) I

Z. T. FRENCH 8v F. J. PEP-ESE.

SEWINGMAOHINE. 7 No. 427,068. Patented May 6, 1890.

Zaeka y T 3-Sheets-Sheet 3. & F. J. FRBESE.

MACHINE.

(No Model.)

Z. T. FRENCH V 'snwme N0. 427,068.

Patented May 6 FFICEo A'rnNr ZAOI-IARY T. FRENCH, OF BOSTON, AND FRANCIS J. FREESE, OF LOWVELL, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 427,068, dated May 6, 1890.

Application filed May 22, 1888. Serial No. 274,671. (No model.) I

To all whmn it may concern:

Be it known that we, ZAOHARY T. FRENCH, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, and FRANCIS J. FREEsE, of Lowell, county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts,

have invented an Improvement in Sewing Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention is an improvement on the machine described in United States Patent No. 117,596, dated August 1, 1871, to which reference may be had. The machine described in the said patent contains a hook-gage and a bender, and in practice the hook-gage has to be removed from the shoe before the seam uniting the sole and upper can be finished, and after the removal of the hook-gage the bender is actuated as before until the seam is completed. It has been found that when the bender alone is used the sole-edge acted upon by the bender is pushed in too far toward the last, thus making it excessively difficult, if not quite impossible, to make the finishingstitches uniform in appearance with thosemade before the hook-gage was removed. To obviate this difficulty We have provided means whereby when the hook-gage is removed the bender has given to it a shorter stroke.

Another feature of our invention consists in means for lifting the presser-foot or removing the pressure from the material when the same is to be fed.

Another feature of our invention consists in means for actuating the hooked needle; also, in the combination, with the needle-carrying bar and vibrating lever-arm for reciprocating it, of an open-slotted hooked arm, whereby the needle-bar may be readily removed from the machine.

Figure 1 in side elevation shows a sewingmachine for turned work, it embodying our invention. Figs. 2 and 3 are details to be described; Fig. i, a partial elevation taken from the left of Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the hook-gage; Fig. 6, an inner side view of the guide-block on which rests the hook gage; Fig. 7, a detail showing part of the cam for actuating the rocking lever 1', the said cam being made in the periphery of the hub of the feed-cam p and Fig. 8, a detail of the lever and eccentric for actuating the locking device holding the hook-gage in place. Fig. 9, on a scale larger than in Fig. 1, shows a detail representing the chief parts instrumental The awl e, thread-guide f, throat-plate h,

rocking lever i, to which it is attached, the stationary rod 71?, forming the fulcrum for the said lever 1 the hook-gage m, bender q, presser or channel foot 12 and rocking lever 0 free to oscillate on a stationary shaft (P, are all substantially as in United States Patent No. 117 ,596, where they are all designated by like letters.

The frame-Work A, secured to the column A, has an overhanging arm A at the front end of which is the head A in which slides the awl-bar a, it deriving its movement from the link a, attached to a stud a on a disk, or it may be an arm 00* of a rockshaft (6, pro vided at its rear end with an arm (4 having jointed to it the end of a connecting-rod a, provided with a strap embracing an eccentric on the camshaft a. The head has attached to it the guard or fender 1), against which bears the body of the sole, the edge of which is being clamped between the hook-gage and bender. The thread-guide f is carried by a vertical rod f, provided with a crank joined by a connecting-rod f to an arm of a rocking lever f supported on a stud f one arm .of the lever having a roll which enters a groove of a cam f The hooked needle I) is connected to a rod Z9 extended loosely through a needle-bar (see dotted lines, Fig. 4,) the said rod Z7 (shown chiefly by dotted lines, Fig. 4) having fastened to its lower end an arm 12 which is normally held pressed toward a lever b by a spring 2,,connected to the said rod 19 and bar b and coiled about the said rod, as shown in Fig. i. The lever Z1 is pivoted upon a stud I), screwed into the needle-carrier 17 Then the carrier 12 is lifted, as will be described, the short nearly-horizontal arm of the lever b meets the adjustable cam-block U, which vibrates the said lever, throwing its longer arm away from the arm I), the short arm of the lever 11 passing above the camblock 19 while the needle enters the stock to take the thread from the thread-guide, the needle at the same time acting in usual manner to feed the stock. As the needle descends with its loop, the short arm of the lever 11 again meet-s the cam block U, which latter turns the lever If, it resting against the arm I)", and through the said arm partially rotates the rod b and its attached needle, so that the hook of the needle in its descent will not catch the previous loop yet held on the shank of the needle, but will permit the said needle to draw the loop then held in its hook through the old loop on its shank, thus obviating the employment of a cast-off. To prevent the lever 11 as its end meets the block b from being swung too far, as it might be when the machine is being run rapidly, we have provided for the said lever a stop b The needle -carrier 19 has at its rear side (see Fig. 1) a stud b upon which is pivoted a hooked link Z7 the shape of which is best shown by dotted lines, Fig. 4, the said link having an open loop, which is made to hook over a stud b at the end of the arm I) of a rocking lever I), mounted on a fixed rod I), the said rocking lever having a second arm I), provided with a roller or other stud, to enter a groove in the front face of a cam b, fast to the main cam-shaft, the said rocking lever actuating the needle-carrier b at the proper times.

The cam 42, for actuating the throat-plate, is shown separately in Fig. 7, together with a part of the cam 11 and a part of the rocking lever 40, to be described.

The rocking lever 0 to which is attached the presser-foot 5 it entering the channel in the inner face of the usual sole, as common in turned work, and as provided for in the patent referred to, is mounted on the stationary shaft or rod (1 and one arm, as 4, (see Fig. 1,) of the said rocking lever c has screwed into it the upper end of a rod 0 the said rod above the arm of the rock-shaft being held by a set-nut (3, the said screw-rod below the arm 4 being surrounded by a spiral spring 7, which rests upon a nut 5, screwed upon the lower end of the said rod 0 the rotation of the nut adjusting the strength of the spring and the effective force of the presser in the channel of the sole. The screw-rod 0 above the spring is extended through an ear 8 of a rocking lever-m also loosely mounted on the rod or shaft (1 one arm, as 10, of the said lever having a roller or other stud, which enters a groove in the side of the cam 017 fast on the main shaft a.

When the shoe is to be fed, it must be released, and this is done by lifting the presserfoot and leaving the throat-plate 7L loose to descend slightly, as demanded by the mate rial being sewed, the bender 9 being also drawn back by its actuating devices. To do this, the cam m acts to turn the rocking lever m in the direction to cause the ear 8 to rise and act on the arm 4 of the presser-carrying rocker-lever 0 the spring 7 serving, however, to keep the arm 4 in contact with the ear 8, and preventing the presser-foot from being lifted too much, and while the presser-foot is so lifted and the feed is taking place the roller or other stud 40* of a rocking lever 'i, carrying the throat-plate h 011 the arm 40, comes opposite the depression 41 of the cam 42, (see Fig. 7,) it being a peripheral cam made in the hub of the cam-p to be described, fast on shaft a, which leaves the rocking lever 11 free to be turned slightly, thus permitting the throat-plate to also descend slightly to aid in freeing the work from pressure to permit it to be fed by the needle.

\Vhen it is desired to remove the needlecarrier for repairs or otherwise, the open-slotted hooked link I) may be swung'back against the spring 50 and be disengaged from the stud I). The needle-carrier slides vertically in a head p at the end of a feed-carriage 19, fit ted to slide on the base of the machine, it being actuated, when it is desirous to cause the work to be fed by the needle, by a link p (see Fig. 4,) connected with a stud on a vibrating elbow-lever p deriving its motion from a cam 1), (partially shown in Figs. 1 and 4,) by breaking away the frame-work of usual construction and fast on the shaft a The hook-gage m (shown separately in Fig. 5 and as in working position, Fig. 1) has in its shank a hole m which receives in it a holding-stud 13, (see Fig. 6,) erected on a slide 14,

herein shown as serrated at its lower side and adapted to be locked in position by means of a locking device 15, shown as a block (see Figs. 1 and 6) mounted loosely on an eccen tric portion 43 of a rock-shaft 16, (shown enlarged in Fig. 8,) it having an arm 17, the front end of which is entered loosely into a hole (see Fig. 1) in an arm of the rocking lever 2', to which is attached the throat-plate 7L, so that as the throat-plate is released, as before described, and descends under the action of the work upon it as the work is being fed, the said eccentric portion acts to move the locking device 15 to release the slide 14 and permit it to move freely, to either enable the hook-gage to adapt itself to any increas ing thickness of sole or to be moved by the spring 44 to adapt the hook-gage to any decreasing thickness of sole.

The slide 14, as well as the locking device, is shown as serrated, so that one firmly engages the other, to thereby lock the slide and pin in place to hold the hook-gage in proper position while the needle penetrates the channel flap or lip of the sole, the slide being, however, free at proper times, as just prior to each stitch, to move as described.

The under side of the hook-gage on rests upon a guide-blockm (shown as broken out in Fig. 1 and in Fig. 6,) secured by bolts 20 to a plate 25, attached by screws 14 to the front end of a rocking lever on, loosely mounted on the rod or shaft (1 The guide-block on has an arm 22, on which is pivoted a latch 23 under the control of a spring 24, the said latch acting upon the inner end of the hook-gage and holding the same in place 011 the guide m and pin 13, the said latch through the spring 24 keeping its hold on the shank of the said guide, notwithstanding the latter has a slight movement of reciprocation, as stated, while the feed is taking place.

hen it is desired to remove the hook-gage m, the latch 23 will be turned back away from it, and thereafter the said gage maybe easily lifted from the stud 13.

The bender-bar q, placed in a longitudinal guide-groove made in the thickened outer end of the rocking lever m has pivoted to it at 26 a link 29, slotted at its rear end, as at 45, to embrace a screw-stud 30 of an arm of a rocking lever 46, (see Fig. 1,) mounted on a stud 47, fixed in the frame A, the said lever 46 at its rear end having a second downwardly-extended arm provided with a roller or other stud, which enters a second groove 67 in the cam f. (See Fig. 1.) The slot 45 is of greater diameter than the stud 30, so that there is considerable lost motion between the stud 30 and the link 29, and were it not for the auxiliary link 32, to be described, the bender would not be actuated for the whole of the movement of the said stud.

The link 29 has pivoted upon itat 31 an auxiliary link 32, provided at its front end with a pin or projection 48, which, when the hookgage is in working position on the pin 13, is acted upon by the rear end of the hook-gage, so as to keep the beveled rear end 49 of the auxiliary link 32 up, as shown by full lines, Figs. 1 and 2, against the stud 30, at which time the stud 30 will give to the bender-bar its full stroke, the hook-gage at such time being in working position in the shoe, and with its hook against the sole next the last. NVhen, however, the hook-gage m is removed to complete the shoe at the shank, then the sole, not being supported by the hook-gage, must be pushed upon' by the bender as before, for if the stroke of the bender is the same it tends to push the sole back so far against the last as to prevent the needle penetrating the upper and sole at a uniform distance from the edge of the sole. This decrease in throw of the benderis effected automatically, for when the hook-gage is withdrawn from the shoe the pin 48, no longer held by the hookgage, permits the heavier end 49 of the auxiliary lever 32 to drop and retire from the stud 30, thus permitting to come into play the lost motion referred to, so that the bender is moved forward for a less distance than before as the final stitches for securing the upper and sole are being put in. The spring 66 keeps the rear end of the slot 45 against the stud 30, and the pin 48 is also extended into a slot 87 in the link 29, to thereby prevent the end 49 of the auxiliary link 32 dropping too far when the hook-gage is removed, as stated. As the rocking lever c is raised, as described, to enable the stock tobe fed, the said lever acts upon the lower end of an adjusting-screw 50, screwed into the arm m, and lifts the same sufficiently to prevent any undue friction of the bender upon the edge of the upper located between the bender and the throat h. The forward end of the bender is slotted to straddle the needle.

The rocking lever c has attached to it an arm 51, provided with an adjusting-screw 52, the end of which rests in that part of the rocking lever m in which slides the bender, the adjustment of the screw 52 adjusting the presser-foot with relation to the bender, so as to accommodate for the thickness of the sole at the bottom of the channel.

The needle in Fig. 4 is shown as fully down, in which position the hook of the needle stands facing the operator. The hook of the needle faces the operator while the needle rises, passes through and feeds the stock, and receives thread, at which time the needle commences to descend, and in so doing the lever I), carried by the needle-slide b meets the cam-block Z1", turns the lever b and causes it to strike the arm I) and turn 'the needle substantially a'quartereturn, thus enabling the descending needle to draw its new loop through the old loop yet on its shank ,but as soon as the lever b passes the cam-block, which it does before the needle completes its descent, the spring 2 assumes control of the needle and restores it to its normal position, with its hook facing the operator. In the machine described in the said patent the aw bar was of the same diameter throughout, and its lower end terminated just above the gage b and thread-guide, and the awl was quite long. The longer the awl the greater its tendency to glance in the stock, thus making a hole outof line with the needle. This glancing was a great objection, and to overcome it we had to devise some plan for shortening the awl, and to do this we slabbed off a part of the lower end of the awl-bar, as shown in Fig. 1, which enabledus to extend the awl-bar farther down, or enabled us to move the awl-bar below the guard 19 and thread-guide, and in this way, the lower end of the awl-bar coming closer to the work, we

were enabled to shorten the awl about onethird.

WVe claim* I 1. In a sole-sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, the hook-gage to engage the inner side of the sole, the bender-bar q, the connected link 29, and the arm or lever having a stud 30, combined with an auxiliary link or device, which is acted upon by the said stud to effect the reciprocation of the benderbar while the said hook-gage engages the inner side of the sole, the removal of the hookgage, as described, permitting the said auxiliary link or device to move out of the range of the said stud, the latter in its further movement acting through the link 29 to vary the length of the movement given to the bender-bar in its forward stroke, for the purposes set forth.

2. In a sole-sewing machine, the stitch forming mechanism, the bender-bar, the rocking armor lever in which it slides, the slotted link 29, and the lever having a stud of less area than the slot in the said link, combined with the auxiliary link 32, pivoted on the link 29, to operate substantially as described.

5. In a sole-sewing machine, the rocking lever 0 having an arm 4, and the attached presser-foot, the rod 0 attached to the said arm, and the spring 7 on the said rod, combined with the lever m, its ear 8, and cam to actuate the said lever m, substantially as described.

6. In a sole-sewing machine, the needlecarrying slide, the guide therefor, and the cam-block b combined with the needle-bar, its spring 2, arm Zr, and lever 11 to operate substantially as described.

'7. In a sole-sewing machine, the needlecarrying slide and the rocking lever Z), having the stud Z9 combined with the openslotted link W, to operate substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

' ZAOI-IARY T. FRENCH.

FRANCIS J. FREESE. WVitnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, B. DEWAR.

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