US2482857A - Centering guide for necktie linings - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 27, 1949. M. s. MALE K 2,432,357

CENTERING GUIDE FOR NECKTIE LININGS "Filed NOV. 9, 1946 ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 27, 1949 UNITED STATES PATENTMOFFICE 2,482,857 CENTERING GUIDE FOR NECKTIE LINI NGS Morris S. Malek, New York, N. Y.

Application November 9, 1946, Serial No. 709,042

Claims.

This invention relates to centering guides for necktie linings or similar strip elements.

Necktie linings are characterized in that they taper or converge toward one end and consist of a resilient, pliant, or relatively-stiff material of textile or plastic which is cut on the bias for longitudinal elasticity. The term strip element as used herein is intended to denote any convergent strip article, which may or may not have one or more of the characteristics mentioned, but which is preferably longitudinally resilient.

Because of the tapered configuration of a necktie lining, it has always beena problem to provide accurate centering guide means therefor. This problem has been greatly aggravated by the substantial longitudinal elasticity of the lining whereby it tended to distort relative to the guiding means, Since in the manufacture of neckties it is desirable to simultaneously feed to the sewing machine both the lining and the necktie material, further difficulties were encountered because the stretchability of the necktie mate-rial might be difierent or substantially less than that of the lining.

It is therefore an object of the invention to provide improved means for centering and guiding the necktie lining-or similar strip element.

Another object of the invention is to furnish improved centering guide means for assuring accurate alinement of a lining with a necktie material under a tension which may be varied so that the stretch in the lining is substantially like that of the necktie material to prevent puckering in the completed necktie.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved device of the character described peculiarly adaptedto utilize the characteristics of a necktie lining or similar strip element so that the same is virtually self-centering.

Modern production methods in the manufacture of neckties frequently involve the use of long needle sewing machines utilizing meshing crimping rollers transversely grooved for the passage of a long needle through the crimped lining and necktie material. Also high speed electrically driven sewing machines are used. Since these machines are well known in the art, no further description thereof is necessary. It is an object of the present invention to provide a guide means of improved construction which is particularly adapted for use with such machines.

Because necktielinings vary considerably in width, it is another object of the invention to ing an interchangeable part for cooperation with different linings.

Another object of the invention is the provision durable and eflicient in use.

Other objectsand advantages of the invention will become apparent as the specification proceeds.

With the aforesaid objects in view, the invention comp-rises the novel features, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in their preferred embodiments, pointed out in the subjoined claims, and illustrated in the annexed drawing, wherein like parts are designated by the same reference characters throughout the several views.

In the drawing:

Figure 1 isan edge View of a guide means embodying the invention showing in cross-section an inserted necktie lining at its widest portion.

Fig. 2 is a similar view but showing the lining off-center to illustrate the action of the guide spring.

Fig. 3 is a similar view with the guide means acting upon av narrowerportion of the tapered lining.

Fig. 4 is a similar view showing the guide means acting upon the narrowest portion of the lining.

Fig. 5 is a similar view of a modification of the invention.

Fig. 6 is a view in front elevation showing a specific structure of guide means embodying the invention and illustrating the relation of a sewing machinethereto, a portion of necktie lining beingillustrated in dot-dash lines.

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary sectional view taken on line 'll of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is an edge view of the guide means in Fig. '7.

The advantages of the invention as here outlined are best realized when all of it's features and instrumentalities are combined, but useful embodiments may be produced involving less than the whole. 7

It will be obvious to those skilled in the art to which the invention appertains, that the same may be incorporated in several different constructions. The accompanying drawing, therefore, is submitted merely as showing a preferred exemplification of the invention.

Referring in detail to the drawing, Figure 1 provide centering guidemeans adjustable or havshows diagrammatically or in simplified form a guide means for centering a strip element such as a necktie lining. The same includes a base plate l and a bowed spring 2 between which is disposed the lining. The bowed generally central region of the spring forms a compartment or com cavity 2a, the end portions 2b of the spring being relatively plane or parallel with the plate I or forming a very small angle thereto. With a lining material of a conventional character which at its largest end is about 2%; inches wide, the length of the bowed portion of the spring is about equal to the maximum width of the lining, although this relationship is not critical. Since the depth of the curve at 2a may be only about of an inch, the curvature of the arc is very gradual and preferably there is no definite mark or point indicating the end of the bowed portion, the end sections 222 desirably having a reduced or a reverse curvature. The spring 2 is pressed toward the plate 1 by pivotal means located at the center of the bowed portion and indicated generally by the numeral 3. Intermediate of the plate I and the spring 2 is a lining 4. The concave surface 2a engages the longitudinal side edges 5 of the lining to tend to center the same and compresses the edge portions 5 of the lining to center the same by causing the lining to follow the path of least resistance. The centering action at the edges 5 is due to the angularity of the adjacent parts of the spring. The central region of the lining is free of any pressure of the spring so that the lining for these various reasons tends to flowor shift toward the center whereby it is maintained in constantly centralized relation to the spring 2. Due to the pivotal pressure at 3, the spring is adapted to float so as to exercise a uniform pressure. Thus if the lining as initially inserted into the guide means is out of center, one end portion of the spring 2 is lifted as shown in Fig. 2, but at this end the frictional resistance to longitudinal movement of the lining is much greater, causing the lining to automat ically shift leftward toward center position as in Figure 1. In sodoing the lining is impelled by spring action at its right hand edge and by spring pressure at the adjacent portion thereof with an increased area of contact with the spring.

As the tapering lining or strip element 4 is drawn through the guide means, the condition of the latter changes to conform to the diminishing width of the lining as shown in Figs. 3 and 4. For Fig. 3, the action is substantially the same as described above. The width of the lining at this point is substantially less than the length of the main part of the bowed section of the spring 2. The compressed portions 6 tend to expand to maintain generally marginal guiding contact with the spring. The latter may tend to flatten out and this becomes appreciable with the lining indicated in Fig. 4, thereby obtaining a continuous centering action which may be the conjoint result of the cooperation of the lining and the spring. The guiding action has a floating characteristic as distinguished from a positive centering which is possible only with strip elements of constant width. The edges of the linings are raw and somewhat irregular and they would normally interfere with a good guiding action; here with the guide laterally open they are not positively engaged or restrained, but are yieldingly urged by an angular or surface wiping contact for movement toward thecenter of the symmetrical spring. Since both longitudinal edges are thus urged toward each other, the lining might tend to buckle or wrinkle at the center, except that the central urging is very moderate especially under low spring pressure; but in any event the closed bow formation of the spring restrains such buckling.

In Fig. 5 is shown a modification indicatin a reversed relationship, the rigid plate 1 having a groove Ta, shaped like the curved portion of the spring 2, the member 8 being rigid or preferably constituting a spring which is slightly bowed to form a concavity opposite to that of the surface 7a, the bowing being very gradual and being so slight that under normal operative spring pressure, the spring 8 is substantially plane. Here there is a marginal engagement and pressure at the regions 9 tending to centralize the lining as above described. The spring follows the diminishing lining, and at the narrowest lining section, the spring may be caused to bow inward of the surface id just enough to hold the lining rather uniformly against the surface 1a to maintain the centering action. However, the device of Fig. 1 i believed to be more reliable and to have a greater range of operation with different linings.

Referring now to a more specific structure, l9 denotes a centering guide for necktie linings or similar articles, embodying the invention. The same may include a plate ll having open ended slots I2 whereby the plate is secured to a suitable support for lateral adjustability in order to properly aline guide means with any necktie sewing machine such as [3, whose sewing path is horizontal and hence at right angles to the guide means H3. The plate H is preferably generally vertical and it may have a front edge I4 at which is provided a bevel l5. The latter is desirably of curved form and may represent the intersection of a plane surface with a cylindrical surface.

Laterally to the bevel I5 there is a bolt l6 afiixed to the plate I i. This bolt passes through a rockablebracket l1 having therein a hole I8 larger than the bolt to provide a requisite clearance.

Extending around bolt [6 is a compression coil spring l9 bearing on a washer 20 on which there is seated the adjustable wing nut 2|. Thus the sprin I9 presses the bracket I! with a variable pressure toward the plate H. The adjacent end of the bracket is formed with a lip or projection 22 forming a toe adapted to rock on the surface of the plate II. To prevent angular movement of the bracket about the bolt, a pin 23 affixed on the plate ll extends loosely through a hole 24 in the bracket without interfering with the rocking movement of the latter. Desirably a plurality of such pins 23 are provided. Extending from the bracket H at the offset 25 is an arm 26 carrying a frontward extending finger 21 formed adjacent to its end with a hole 28.

A strip spring member 29 may be fairly stiff or as delicate as that used to form the main spring of a clock. The central region of this member 29 is bowed away from the plate I I. This bowed portion 39 is in central alinement with the notch l5 and may be substantially of like length or longer than the same. The spring member 29 extends along the front edge [4 of the plate and is preferably set back somewhat and the width of the spring is substantially greater than that of the notch l5. The notch may underlie only the adjacent edge of the spring. The end portions 3|, 32 of the spring member 29 may be relatively plane and parallel to the plate I I, against which these portions may normally seat. At one end of the spring member is a portion 33 curved away from the plate H to provide an easy entrance for the lateral insertion of a necktie lining. 0n

'c-aacass'r the bowed portion 38 afi'ixed .as by soldering or the like, a seating element 3d whose surface may form a. section of a. sphere for-rocking engagement with the finger 21. Carried by the element 34 is a pin 35 loosely engaged in the hole :28 Whereby the members I! and 2e may rock independently or conjointly. To prevent angular movement of the member 29 about the pin 35, a pin 35 extends loosely through a hole 3'! in the flat portion 3| of the spring.

While the spring member ZQis highly flexible along its length, and particularly because of the bowed portion 3!}, its pressure toward the plate H may be delicately adjusted by manipulation of the wing nut 2!, Thus the pressure may be increased by increasing the tension of the spring l9, thereby urgingthe arm 25in a clockwise direction, the bracket '5'! rocking on its toe 22, and the finger 2'! thus exerting an increased force on the bearing elementS-t. By :a reverse'operation, the pressure exerted by the spring 29 may be diminished. In either case, the spring 29 is adapted to remain parallel with the member 6 I irrespective of the angular position of the bracket l1 and its arm 26 by reason of the rockability of the joint 34, 35. The pressure exerted on the spring 29 need not exceed 2 to 6 ounces.

At 38 is a necktie lining or similar material such as indicated at 4 which is cut on the bias and which is provided with longitudinal edges 40 that are convergent; the lining travels in the direction indicated by the arrow 39. The lining 38 is preferably inserted into the device it with its widest end leading. Such insertion. is facilitated by the entrance portion 33. The lining and necktie material are engaged by the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine !3 and thereafter are drawn automatically under the tension exerted by the sewing machine. Because of the right angle relation between the sewing machine and the device it], the notch l5 serves as a friction reducing bevel.

Due to the plane sections 3!, 32 of the spring member 29, there is a frictional wiping contact of the lining between the sections and the plate H. The intermediate longitudinal portion of the lining. which is at the central region of the bowed section 30 of the spring member is relatively free 7 of the spring pressure and the frictional sliding engagement. Thus the lining tends to follow the path of least resistance and becomes centralized. Further, the spring 29 tends to act angularly laterally on the edge portions of the lining for centralizing the same. Either or both of these actions may occur. They may occur with a relatively stiff spring 29, but the best results are obtained with a spring which follows the diminishing width of the lining by a reduction in curvature and flattening of the bowed portion of the spring as the pressure area diminishes with the reduction in the width of the lining. The curved notch l5 may assist in maintaining the lining centered. but the primary action is that of the spring The guide means of the spring be In. erally open at the spring sections 3! and There is some tendency of the lining to concave centrally, the opposite longitudinal side portions of the lining tendin to move toward the center, but this is restrained by the closed formation of the central part of the bowed sections of the spring 253. Thus, wrinkling of the lining is prevented. It is thus seen that the lining is virtually self centering; the tapering configuration of the lining has no disturbing effect at all. The longitudinal elasticity of the lining may be disregarded, although preferably the lining is pulled through by a centralized or by a uniform tension across its width. Thus the several characteristics of the lining are peculiarly adapted to exemplify the advantages of the invention.

If the. necktie material has relatively little stretchability, it would be undesirable to cause a substantial stretch in the lining, because after these two parts are sewn together, the lining would cause the. necktie to pucker. Consequently by manipulation of the wing nut 2|, the spring member 29 may be adjusted to-reduce the frictional engagement thereof with the lining. Thus it will'be seen that the device H3 is adapted for use with necktie materials of a wide variety.

' The device It is inherently adapted to operate on linings of different widths because the guiding action accommodates itself to the side edges {it of the lining. However, should it bev necessary to-utilize the device it with a lining of greatly increased width, the spring element 28 is interchangeable. It may be readily removed by merely moving the arm 26 away from the plate H and disengaging the element 29 from the pin 36 and from the finger 21 whereupon a different spring element may be readily mounted in operative position. The operation mentioned is also applicable to the device of Fig. 5.

I claim:

In a device for guiding a necktie lining or like tapered strip, a combination comprising a substantially flat plate over which said strip is drawn, a bowed spring supported above said plate. said spring having a concave side facing the plate and ends free from the plate to yieldingly engage opposite edge portions of said strip when the latter is drawn therebetween, and pivoting means bearing on the convex side of the spring for resiliently urging the latter toward the plate to center said strip with respect to the plate.

2. The device defined in claim 1 having loose connecting means between said plate and the spring for limiting the movement of the spring with respect to said pivoting means.

3. A centering guide for an elongated tapered strip element comprisin a rigid member having a surface along which said strip element is drawn in a predetermined path, means having a concaved surface resiliently curved transversely of said path facing said rigid member surface for frictional wiping contact with said strip element along longitudinal free edges thereof for transversely centering the strip element when passing between said rigid member and. said concaved means.

4. The centering guide as defined in claim 3 including mounting means for said concaved means yieldingly urging the latter toward the rigid member surface.

5. The centering guide as defined in claim 3 including pivotal mounting means for said concaved means yieldingly urging the latter toward the rigid member surface, and loose connecting means between said rigid member and the concaved means for aligning the latter with respect to said rigid member.

6. A centering guide for feeding a strip element of the character described comprising in combination, a rigid plate having a substantially fiat surface along which said strip element is drawn, a bowed spring pivotally mounted at the center of the bow with a concave side facing said fiat surface, said spring having spaced free end portions displaceable from a normal contact with said flat surface when a strip element is drawn therebetween with said spaced portions engaging opposite edges of the strip element for maintainto receive the width of the strip element for frictional sliding pressure contact along free edge portions thereof, and means urgin the spring yieldingly toward the plate.

9. A centering guide according to claim 8 wherein said plate is formed with a bevel along an edge concaved toward the bowed portion to form with the bowed portion a generally elliptical entrance for the longitudinal movement of the strip element.

8 10. A centering guide according'to claim 8 wherein said last mentioned means is pivotally connected to said spring at the center of the bowed portion.

MORRIS S. MALEK.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 504,571 Eschner Sept. 5, 1893 1,346,988 Stein July 20, 1920 2,175,494 Thompson et a1. Oct. 10, 1939 2,359,333 Shifter Oct. 3, 1944 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 645,855 Germany June 4, 1937

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