US2426144A - Garment construction - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 19, 1947. J, CLYNE 2,426,144

GARMENT CONS TRUC TION 4 Filed July 20, 1945 INV ENTOR JOJ'EPH NE BY I "2 ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 19, 1947 2,426,144 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION JosephClyne, Bronx, N. Y.

Application July 20, 1945, Serial No. 606,133

6 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in garments of the type of waists, blouses and jackets, and more particularly to an improved construction in which the sleeve and body elements are combined in such a manner as to provide a comfortable and pleasing fit for the wearer and at the same time provide a construction which will permit free movement of the arms and body of the wearer.

When a person wearing a waist or jacket of common construction attempts to raise his arm, it is not an unusual experience to find that the sleeve of the garment places-a strain on the upper arm muscle so that the wearer does not have free movement of his arm. Furthermore, it is a common experience to find that the wearer of an ordinary waist, for example, cannot raise his arms without pulling the rest of his garment out of position, to either twist it around his body, or make it ride up. This is particularly true if the wearer of the garment is in a sitting position. In some cases, it is very difficult for one in a sitting position to raise his arms when wearing a waist or jacket of ordinary construction. The strains produced on the arm muscles under such conditions necessarily make the wearer of the garment uncomfortable and give him the feeling that his arms are held down under tension.

The primary object, therefore, of the present invention is to provide an improved garment construction which will overcome the difficulties and objections referred to above, and particularly to provide an upper garment in which there is a minimum of restraint against free arm movement. 4

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved upper garment construction which permits the raising and swinging of the wearers arms without strain on his arm muscles, and without pulling the garment out of its normal position.

Accordingly, the improved garment construction of the present invention comprises. a front section, a sidesection and a back section, the front and back sections being joined to the side section by seams toward the front and back, respectively, of the garment, the side section comprising an integral part of an elongated panel of material providing not only the side section ofthe garment but also an undersleeve for the garment. The panel which provides the under sleeve and side section of the garment preferably includes a substantial allowance at the armpit to permit freedom of movement of the wearers arms. The garment also includes a top sleeve which is joined to the under sleeve by seams extending lengthwise of the sleeve members and is also joined to the front and back sections of the garment by suitable seams.. The special construction permits free arm movement without distorting the position of the garment on the wearer and without binding the arm muscles of thewearer.

According to a preferred form of construction, the combined body and sleeve panel includes a dart in the side panel sectionv which extends substantially to thearmpit of the panel and which is connected through an armpit seam to the armhole section of the garment. Thecombinedpanel has a side notch at the armpit which is sewed up to provide a bent section at the armpit.

The improved garment of the present invention includes other features, objects and advantages which will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following more detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming'a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view showing the sleeve and body elements of the improved garment of the present invention, the elements being shown in outline or in pattern form in approximately the arrangement in which they are combined together.

Fig. 2 is a View partly to one side of a. garment constructed in accordance. with the present invention, such as a jacket, the view illustrating the relationship between the sleeve and body elements with one sleeve of the garment in partly raised position.

Figure 3 is an enlarged side' broken view showing the. armpit structure of the garment.

Referring to Fig; 1 of the drawings in which the various sections or elements of the garment of the present invention are shown in pattern form, these elements or sections made of any suitable fabric comprise a back section Ill which is substantially narrower than the back section of the standard pattern and a front section I 2 which is also substantially narrower than the front section of the standard pattern. The portions eliminated from the front and back sections of the garment are at the side normally under the armpit of the garment. The garment therefore includes a special relatively long panel member or section I4 which forms a side section it for the garment and an under sleeve I8. The parts 16 and I8 are integral, with the section l6 positionedbetween the front and back sections Ill and [2 in approximately the relationship shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 1 also shows the pattern of the top sleeve 20 which is attached to the other portions of the garment referred to above.

' Fig. 2 illustrates the style and form of garment made from the sections shown in Fig. 1 in which a jacket form of garment is illustrated with belt, buttons and collar of more or less conventional design.

The panel member I4 comprising the side and under sleeve of the garment is provided with a dart 22, the cut for which extends to the armpit section of the panel and which connects with an upwardly inclined cut 24 in the material, which runs to a side notch having edges 26 and 2B, The cut 24 extends toward the back of the garment and comprises substantially a continuation of the edge 28 which extends to the margin of the panel The under sleeve portion of the panel [4 is also cut from the front edge as shown at 30, slightly along the sleeve from the edge 28 at a curve extending nearly half way across the under sleeve I8. This cut is substantially along the standard pattern line for an under sleeve, the continuation of which is indicated by a dotted line 32 which extends across the sleeve to the back edge of the under sleeve at the armpit section of the panel 14. A dotted line 34 comprising substantially a continuation of the cut 24 also extends toward the back of the panel I4, this line 34 indicating approximately the standard pattern line which would normally be a part of the waist section of the garment. The dart 22 is formed approximately at the position of the side seam of the standard garment.

An important feature of the present invention is the inclusion of a considerable allowance or allowances in the panel I 4 generally represented by the irregular shaped area 36 between the cut 30, the line 32, and the lower boundary formed by the edge 28, the cut 24 and the dotted line 34. However, the under sleeve section I8 includes other minor allowances or deviations from the pattern of the standard sleeve in the region of the cut 30 and the dotted line 32.

In making up a garment such as the jacket illustrated in Figures 2 and 3, the edge 38 of the back section is sewed to the edge 42 of the side section [6 up to about the line 34. An edge 40 of the side section I6 below the edge 26 is sewed to an edge 44 of the front section l2, the dart 22 is sewed up to the cut 24 which is also sewed up, and the edges 26 and 28 are sewed together to form a bend in the panel l4 at the armpit. In these operations, the cut 30 is also sewed up to form a seam of dart configuration extending approximately to the middle of the under sleeve 18. An edge 46 of the top sleeve is sewed to the edge 48 of the under sleeve, and the edge 50 of the top sleeve is sewed to the edge 52 of the under sleeve. The top edges 54 and 56 of the back and front sections are sewed together in the usual manner and the curved upper edge 68 of the top sleeve 20 is sewed into the armhole edges and the necessary edges of the panel I 4 to complete the combination of the elements of the garment shown in Fig. 1. Both sleeves and sides of the garment are constructed alike in the usual manner, with two backs l sewed to each other, and the garment is completed to produce a jacket as illustrated in Fig. 2 or to produce a waist or other type of upper garment as desired.

The dart 22 has the effect of narrowing the panel l4 below the allowance area 36, and the dart made from the cut 24 and the adjacent notch smooths out the bend formed by sewing 4 together the edges 26 and 28. At the same time the cut 24 permits the material at the left of the dart 22 to be shifted to the right, when the dart is sewed up, without disturbing the full width of the area 36. It will be noted that in the operation of forming the dart 22 and the dart formed from the notch and continuing cut a narrowing of the upper part of the waist section of the panel I4 is eifected, while the allowance of extra material 36 and the under sleeve section H) are substantially unaltered. The dart formed by sewing up the cut 30 increases the bend in the panel 14 and aids in shaping the underarm portion of the panel.

The improved garment construction of the present invention comprises a relatively simple pattern arrangement in which a novel form of side panel and under sleeve is provided for giving a garment structure which permits free movement of the wearers arms without binding the arm muscles and without distorting the garment on the body of the wearer. For example, the wearer of the garment of the present invention may raise his arms in any position without breaking the seams about the sleeve and body portion of the garment and without pulling the body of the garment from its normal position on the wearer. From the foregoing description, it will be apparent that certain variations may be made in the structure and arrangement of the panel combination and still achieve most of the objects and advantages of the present invention. The improved structure of the present invention may be employed in the making of various types of garments such as jackets, ladies waists and other types of garments.

What is claimed as new is:

1. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion including a front section, a back section, a top sleeve and an elongated one piece panel member one end section of which is set in the side of the garment between the front and back sections and the opposite end section of which is sewed to the top sleeve to provide an under sleeve for the garment, the improvement in which said panel member in blank or pattern form includes a considerable allowance of extra material as an intermediate section for the armpit of the garment to permit the free raising of the wearers arm without binding his arm muscles, the lower front portion of said allowance being bounded by a V-shaped notch in the front edge of the panel and a cut extending downwardly and backwardly from the V-point of the notch to about halfway across the panel, the edges of said notch and cut respectively being sewed together, whereby said panel member is substantially bent forward at the armpit of the garment and shaped to fit the wearer.

2. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 1 in which said panel in pattern form includes a vertical cut extending downwardly from the back end of said backwardly extending cut, and in which the edges of said vertical out are sewed together.

3. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion including a front section, a back section, a top sleeve and an elongated one piece panel member one end section of which is set in the side of the garment between the front and back sections and the opposite end section of which is sewed to the top sleeve to provide an under sleeve for the garment, the improvement in which said panel member includes a considerable allowance of extra material as an intermediate section extending across the panel member at the armpit of the garment to permit the free raising of the wearers arm without binding his arm muscles, the intermediate allowance section of the panel member having an armpit structure including a pair of substantially spaced darts formed by sewing-up the edges of spaced laterally extending cuts in the material of the panel member, said darts converging toward the front edge of the panel and extending from about halfway across the panel member to its front edge at the armpit of the garment, whereby said panel member is substantially bent forward at the armpit of the garment and shaped to fit the wearer.

4. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which a dart extends a substantial distance downwardly intermediate the sides of said panel from the back end of the lower of said spaced darts.

5. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which the lower of said darts is formed by sewing up the edges Of a notch in the front edge of a panel and the edges of a cut extending backwardly and downwardly in the panel from the notch to about halfway across the panel.

6. An elongated one-piece panel section for a sleeved garment, one end section of which is adapted to be set into the side of the garment between the front and back sections thereof and the other end section of which is adapted to form an undersleeve section for the sleeve of the garment, having at an intermediate portion thereof, a generally V-shaped notch extending inwardly from one edge, a cut extending from the V-point of the notch downwardly and inwardly into the section of the panel which is to be set into the side of the garment to a point about halfway across the panel, and a cut extending transversely into the panel from said edge thereof, the edges of said V-shaped notch and said cuts being adapted to be sewed together to form darts converging towards the edge from which the V-shaped notch and said second cut extends and to define a section to lie adjacent the armhole section of a garment forming an allowance of extra material which will permit free raising of the wearers arm without binding of his arm muscles.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,094,643 Fellroth Oct. 5, 1937 1,740,272 Sferrazza Dec. 17, 1929 2,369,416 Solomon Feb. 13, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 211,038 Great Britain Feb. 14, 1924

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