US2414204A - Method of lasting open-toe shoes - Google Patents

Description

Jail 14, 1947- J. s. KAMBoRlAN 2,414,204

METHOD OF LASTING OPEN-TOE SHOES Filed sept; 22. 1945 y@ Ms' Patented Jan. 149 1947 UNITED STATES PATENT orifice 2,414,204 METHOD F LASTING OPEN-TOE SHOES Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass. Application September 22, 1943, Serial No. 503,340

i 9 Claims. (Cl. 1v2145 This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear and relates more particularly to a novel method of lasting open-toe shoes. It is very difficult to last the open-,toe type of shoe by the usual lasting machine, since there is no material at the center of the toe end of the upper which may be seized by the center jaw of the pullingover machine. Consequently hand lasting has been resorted to but even by hand. lasting difficult to obtain satisfactory results, since the material at opposite sides of the toe notch must be stretched independently.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a. novel method of lasting open-toe shoes, particularly shoes which are also open at the heel, whereby in a simple and inexpensive manner to insure a satisfactory degree oi stretch of the fcrepart material at comitantly to assure a proper location of the toe opening. A further object is to provide a novel method of lasting open-toe shoes which can be performed without special skill and without the use of special or complicated machinery. Other and further objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out Vin the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawing wherein Fig. 1 is a plan view of the vamp oi an opentoe, open-heel shoe;

Fig.' 2 is a bottom view of the forward end of it is the toe and conf the vamp as it appears at the completion of the Y first step of the present novel method;

Fig. 31s a front elevation of the vamp of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a shoe upper mounted on a last;

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of a lasted shoe; and

Fig. Sis a bottom View of a last of special design useful in the performance of this novel method.

Referring to the drawing, the numeral l-designates a shoe vamp appropriate for use in making a shoe of the open-toe, open-heel type. This vampis cut away at the points 2 to provide the rearwardly extending portions" 3 to which the strap members i (Fig. 5) are attached. At its forward end the vamp is provided with a notch 5 intervening between two forwardly directed tabs 6 and l. After preparing this vamp (or the shoe upper embodying the vamp) the tabs 6 and 1 are brought together in overlapping relation as shown in Fig. 2, and are united by barring stitches B or one or more staples, or otherwise, thus dening an opening 9 at the toe end of the shoe.

Prior to assembling the upper with the last a suitable insole will be tacked to the last bottom in accordance with usual procedures.

The upper is slipped over the-last and drawn backwardly so that the tip ll of the last projects through the opening 9 and distends the latter. The operator twists the upper upon the last until the upper is properly aligned relatively to the last, thus performing the spindling operation, and then exerts rearward stress upon the vamp by drawing the strap member ai about the rear endl of the last and tightening the strap. If preferred the strap may be buckled hefore the upper is placed upon the last and then snapped over the last so as to obtain the desired tension. After thus mounting the upper upon thelast (an operation which takes the place of the usual pullingover operation)l the lasting may be completed in any desired manner as for example by the use of a lasting machine such as disclosed in the patent to Kamborian No. 2,251,284, dated. August 5, 1941.

If the tabs are to be overlapped as above suggested they may be skivedto reduce the thickness of the material where they overlap. 4Instead of overlapping the tabs 6 and 'E they may be brought into edge-to-edge relation and united for example by barring stitches. In fact the4 tabs 'as such may be omitted, the forward end portions of the vamp proper at opposite sides oi the toe notch being placed edge-to-edge or otherwise suitably juxtaposed and united by barring stitches, staples or otherwise.

While an ordinary last may be employed, it may be desirable if the tip of the last he too blunt to enter the opening 9, to provide the lastl with Y an auxiliary utip piece of tapering form' as illustrated in Fig. 6. The more or less conical tip Il4 of the last 10" is a separate piece secured in any appropriate way to the last proper. By the employment of such a conical tip it is possible to adapt lasts of the more or less square toed type for use in the practice of this process.

While certain desirable arrangements and procedures have herein been described it is to be understood that the 'invention is broadly inclusive of any and all equivalent arrangements and procedures falling within the scope of the appended claims.

1. That method of lasting open-toe shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper and an insole, which upper includes a vamp having a notch at its forward end, bringing the forward end portions of the vamp materialat opposite sides of the notch into juxtaposition, uniting said thereby conforming the lto provide, with alast. 'last so that Atoe opening in the upper, spindling the upper, 'uniting the structure and an y i :Y opening at its toe end located above the level oi --the foot-supporting surface of the bottom struc- "at opposite sides of the i and permanently uniting them, thereby to define said opening,

- atrasos the upper, assembling the insole with a last, slipping the upper over the last and insole andv drawingit backwardly so that the tip of the last" registers with the opening at the toe end of the upper-,g'pindling the upper and llasting the upper to thefinsnie. Y

23"'lifhat method of lasting open-toe' which comprises as steps providing an upper and anginsolasaid upper including avamp which terminates at its forward end in a pair of tabs separated by a notch, disposing said tabs in overlapping relation, uniting the tabs to deilne a toe opening. assembling the insole with a last, slip' ping the upper over the assembled insole and last so that the tip of the last registers with the toe in the upper, spindling theuupper, and

applying longitudinally exerted stress thereto, vamp to the forepart of thelast and lasting the upper to the-insole.

3. That method of lasting open-toe shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper and an insole, said upper including a vamp which terminates at its forward end in a pair of forwardly directed spaced tabs and has an ankle strap at its rear end. disposing the tabs in overlapping relation and uniting them to dene a toe opening, assembling'theinsole with a last, slipping the upper over the assembled insole and last so that the tip of the last registers with the toe opening in the upper. spindling the upper, tightening the strap about the rear end of the last thereby stressing the up r rearwardly, and drawing the .vamp snugly abo t the forepart of the -last and lasting the lippe, to the insole. e

:4. That meth oi' lasting open-toe, open-heel shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper and an insole,

ends ofthe strap to form a loop; snapping the loop` over the rear end oi' the last E -thereby stressing the upper rearwardly and drawing the vampv snugly about the forepart of the last and lasting the upper to the insole.

5. Method of lasting an open-toed shoe of the kind which, when completed, includes a bottom upper, the upper having an ture, said method comprising as -steps providing an upper including a vamp having a substantially ,.-V-shaped notch at its. forward end bringing the forward end portions only of the vamp material, notch, into juxtaposition an opening of substantially fixed peripheral extent in the toe end of the upper, introducing a last into the upper and forcing its toe end into and applying longitudinal stress to the upper thereby to draw its forepart snugly about the forepart of the last.

6. Method of lasting an open-toed shoe of the kind which, when completed, includes a bottom structure land an upper, the upper having an said upper including a vamp which' terminates at its forward end in a pair of spaced Y that its tip Drotrudes .upper thereby to conform `face of the bottom structure,

openingl at its toe end-locatedabove the levelof,V the foot-supporting surface of the bottom structure, said method comprising as steps providing an upper whose vamp terminates at its forward end -in a pair o'f tabs separated by a notch, diaposing the tabs in overlapped relation and permanently thereby'to denne a toe opening of substantially ilxed peripheral extent while leaving the of the upper rearwardly of said' tabs free from each other, introducing a last into the upper 8o the upper, and applying longitudinal stress to the the vamp to the forepart portions of the last. 7. Method of lasting an-open-toed shoe o f the' kind which, when completed, includes a bottom structure and an-upper, the upper being open at its heel end and having, at its toe end, an opening located above the prising as steps providing an which terminates at its forward end in a pair of forwardly directed tabs, ankle strap at its rear end, disposing the tabs in overlapped relation' and permanently uniting them thereby to provide the upper,v at its toe end.

with an opening of substantially fixed peripheral extent, insertinga-iast into the upper and causing its tip to enter the opening at thetoe end of the upper, and stressing the by tightening the strap about the rear end of the last, thereby to draw the vamp snugly about the forepart of the last.

-8. Method of lasting an open-toed shoe of the kin which when completed. includes a bottom structure and an upper, the vupper being. open at its heel end and having, at its toe end. an opening located above the level of the foot-supporting surface of the bottom structure, said method com.

vamp which terminates at its forward end in a` pair of spaced tabs. the upper having an ankle strap at its rear end, disposing the tabs in overlapping relation and permanently uniting them, thereby providing the upper, at its toe end, with an opening of. substantially nxed peripheral extent, inserting a last uniting the ends oi.' the ankle strap to forma loop and snapping the loop over the rearend of the last thereby to stress the vamp about the forepart of the machine. y,

9. That method oi iasting an openl-toed shoe of the kind, which when completed, includes a bottom structure and an upper, the upper having, at its toe end, an opening located above the level of the foot-supporting surface of thebottom structure, said method comprising as steps proding an upper including a vamp having a substantially V-shaped notch at its forward end,

permanently uniting the forward end portions onLv of the vamp at opposite sides of the notch, thereby to provide the upper at its. toe end with an opening of substantially .fixed peripheral extent while leaving the lower lateral margins of the upper, rearwardly of said opening, free from each other.

j JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

uniting said tabs by a fastener element into said opening, Spindling level of the foot-supporting surA said method comupper having a vamp l the upper having an upper rearwardly i upper having a into the upper and causing its tip to enter the opening at the toe of the upper,

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