US2383514A - Ornamental shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

9 SABO 2, 33,5

ORNAMENTAL sno s AND METHOD OF MAKING THE suns Filed- March 28. 1942 ZSheets-Sheet lmvEN-rom Louis 5050 Aug. 28, 1945. L. SABO ,38 5

-0HNAMENTAUSHOE Aub' METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 28, 1942 2 SheetsSheet 2 'IIIIIIIIIIIIIIllWIIII/l Patented Aug. 28, 1945 ORNAMENTAL SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Louis Sabo,

Astoria, N. Y., assignor to Herman B. -Delman, New York, N. Y.

Application March 28, 1942, Serial No. 436,655 Claims. (01. 3624.5)

The present invention is a continuation in part of my application Serial No. 387,556 filed April 9,

i 1941, and relates to the art of shoemaking.

Oneof the principal objects of the invention is to provide a method by which women's shoes m y be decorated at a low cost.

A further. principal object is to provide a method permitting the operation of trimming a breast flap and attaching it to a heel of a shoe to be performed by an unskilled person, and still to have the finished shoe appear accurately made.

A further object is to provide a method by means of which a decorated breast flap of a shoe integral with the sole may be formed to produce an ornamental effect.

Another object is to provide a method by means of which portions of the covering material for the heel may be visible to an observer.

Another object" is to provide a method which permits to make a decorated shoe without additional operation.

Another object is to provide a shoe having a decorated breast flap integral with the sole to provide an ornamental effect;

Another object is to provide a shoe having a breast flap of the heel comprising an embossed decoration.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will beset forth in part in the following specification and in part will be obvious therefrom without being specifically pointed out, the same being realized and attained as pointed out in the claimshereof.

In making shoes for women, heels are used which differ in length, width, and form of the breasts, and it has been the general practice to make the flap for the breast of the heels of greater width than that of the breast, and after the flap has been cemented to the breast, to trim the laterally extending portions with a knife by manual operation, which requires time, and also requires skill to prevent cutting the heel in the act of removing the trim.

Another method for trimming the breast flap of a heel is also in use by which the breast flap, which has been made larger than the breast of the heel, first is held against the breast of the heel and a pencil used to outline the cut to be made, thereafter the flap is bent back and operated upon with a suitable tool.

I have a co-pending application, Ser. No. 432,- 313, filed Feb. 25, 1942, for improvement in machines for shoemaking, which relates to a masaid flap to the breast of a heel, said heel having been attached to the shoe in its final position before performing said cutting operation on the flap.

The object of the aforementioned methods of the prior art has invariably been to form a flap for the breast of a heel adapted to cover the entire breast portion of the heel for providing an even surface appearing on the breast.

The objects of my present invention have been cited herein above and differ widely from the objects of the prior art: Intentionally I leave a por-' tion of the breast of the heel uncovered by the flap, thus providing a space or a plurality of spaces for revealing the covering material of the heel on the breast side. Furthermore, I provide the contour of the breast flap with an ornamental outline to stress the contrast between the color and material of the covering material, which may be leather, silk or the like, and the flap placed thereon.

Following the reason that a breast of a heel is visible when the wearer is seated, especially when the legs of the wearer are crossed, or may be visible and thereby appeal to a purchaser when the shoe is on display, I prefer to provide the fiap, in

- addition to the decorated contour with an emscribed in this specification.

chine for cutting the breast flap prior to affixing The machine used in connection with the present invention is not-specifically described herein, but is set forth in my co-pendingapplication mentioned herein above.

Referring to the drawings which form part of the specification:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view, partly in section, of a machine designed for the purpose above set forth showing a shoe resting in supported and adjusted position with relation to a housing and a flap-forming cutting device, ready for the forming operation;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing part of the under side of a shoe with the heel attached in its final position and the formed flap prior to attachment to the breast of the heel;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal cross section through the heel taken along the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view similar to the view of Fig. 2, but showing the flap attached to the breast portion of the heel;

Fig. 5 is a front elevation showing the breast of a heel and a decorated flap attached thereto, the side contour of which being inside the contour of the heel;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view similar to the view of Fig. 2, but showing a fiapof different shape secured to the breast of the heel;

Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the embodiment shown in Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a horizontal cross section through the heel taken along lin 8-8 of Fig. "I;

Fig. 9 is a front elevation of a heel and a flap of another shape thereon, the edges of the breast portion of the heel being rounded;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view of a cutting device used for the purpose above set forth; and

Fig. 11' is a plan view showing the underside of the upper member of the cutting device from the line l|-ll of Fig. 10.

In carrying the invention into effect I provide a machine as illustrated in Fig. 1 adapted to support a shoe which may or may not yet have its heel attached in final position, in a manner which permits the cutting device to trim the flap. For the purpose of the later on to be described embossing, the machine provides that the cutter operates on the rough side of the leather of the flap, as shown in Fig. 1.

The shoe is held resiliently in a predetermined position and is supported with relation to a carriage sliding in a housing, for ,slidably bringing the shoe into a position to be operated upon.

With relation to the top of said housing a cutting device is connected adapted to impart to the flap the required shape. A more detailed description of the machine and the means to insure a proper coacting of the various parts thereof appears in my co-pending application.

Referring to the drawings in which similar ref erence numerals designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, III designates a shoe on a last and supported with relation to the machine l I; a heel H of said shoe is attached thereto in its final position. I3 designates a breast flap integral with the outsole of said shoe and turned backwards to lie with its smooth face on top of a plat I4 supported with relation to the machine H. A movable cutter I5 i connected with relation to said machine above said plate l4 and coactive therewith to trim said flap. The heel I! may also be attached to the shoe after the trimming operation of the breast flap has been performed.

The heel l2 of the shoe is covered with a covering material I6, said material usually consisting of leather, silk, or the like, covering said heel on its rear and side portions and partially on the breast in the form of narrow, strips ending in a contour substantiall parallel to the edges formed between the breast and. the side portions of the heel. A tap IT on top of said. heel is shaped similar to the heel but protruding for a small portion on the breast side thereof. In accordance with my invention the flap is first shaped .by the cutting device and then placed on the breast of the heel and cemented thereon providing a flush surface with the protruding portion of the tap I! (see Figs. 4 and 6). The contour of the fla l3 conforms lengthwise to the length of the heel when attached thereto and, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, also conforms continually to the contour of the heel l6 only with the outer edges l8 of the contour design; the inner edges 20, however, provide with the outer edges I8 a plurality of triangular-shaped spaces through which the covering material is visible. This construction provides scalloped ornamental edges on the breast flap overlying the heel covering material. The distance between the oppositely disposed edges 20 is greater than the distance between the inner contours of said narrow strips of the covering material l6. Thereby the uncovered portion 2| of the heel left blank by the absence of the covering material I6 is entirely covered by the flap I3.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 5 the entir width of the flap I3 is smaller than the width of the breast of the heel, but the uncovered space 2| is also completely covered. This embodiment is preferably used to facilitate the cementing of the flap to the heel as the smaller width of the flap in comparison with the breast of the heel permits an inaccuracy of placement which still would hardly be visible to an observer. This makes it possible to use unskilled labor for these operations, whereas heretofore, when the flap covered the entire breast of the heel great care had to be exercised in cementing the pro-formed flap to the heel, and skilled or half skilled labor had to be employed to perform the operation satisfactorily.

Also in the embodiment shown in Figs. 6 to 8, slight aberrations from the common center of the breast and the flap will not be noticeable to an observer. In this embodiment the width of the flap covers entirel the uncovered space 2|, but permits the covering material it to be revealed at the breast of the heel.

Figure 9 shows a further modification in which the heel breast flap, as in Figures 4 and 5, has ornamental scalloped edges and is appliqued over portions of the heel covering material I6 on the breast portion of the heel. However, the scalloped edges are of different configuration.

The cutting device shown in Figs. 10 and 11 comprises a plate 22 which may be integral with or connected to the plate I4, and a cutter 23 c0- active therewith having a cutting edge 24 Of a contour and shape corresponding to the desired contour to 'be imparted to the flap. In addition to the ornamental effect provided by decorating the contour of the flap, an embossed ornamentation may be imparted to the flap, as shown in Fig. 7, by means of a boss 25 conforming to the shape of the ornamentation desired for the embossing and a recess 26 in the plate 22 also 'conforming thereto but of slightly greater size to provide space for the leather between said boss and said recess, and to impede a stamping action into the leather of the flap by the boss 25.

Certain of the advantages of the invention have already been herein referred to. It may be useful, however, particularly to allude at this point to the fact that th decorations may be imparted to the'breast flap of the heel without additional operation, but during the cutting operation to trim the flap. A further advantage is an increase in the production of shoemaking by using the flaps described, as less care has to be exercised for correctly placing the flap on the heel and cementing it thereto, than was necessary heretofore, because no accurate placing is required. Heretofore, an inaccurate placing of a flap conforming to the contour of the breast was immediately noticeable, whereas the use of my flap makes such inaccuracy not visible to an observer.

The contrast between the covering material and the flap, both visible on the breast of the heel in my present inventionappeals to the purchaser of a shoe and, therefore, is apt to increase the sale of this type of shoe.

The embossing described herein may be used with great advantage by imparting a distinct decorative effect to a shoe, not known heretofore.

As the boss 25 may be interchangeable, a great variety of decorations is made possible including, for instance, initials of the manufacturer or the prospective customer, etc.

Other advantages may be obvious from what has been said hereinabove and do not have to be particularly pointed out.

I do not limit myself to the particular details of the method and means set forth in the foregoing specification and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, as the same refer to and set forth only certain embodiments of the invention and it is obvious that the same may be modified, within the scope of the appended claims, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Having thus described the invention what I claim as new and desire to be secured by Letters Patent is as follows:

1. A method of making a shoe having a decorated heel breast flap of a heel comprising'the steps of attaching a heel and a sole having a breast flap to said shoe in final position, thereafter trimming the flap to an ornamental contour and simultaneously embossing said flap to provide an embossed ornamentation, and thereafter securing said flap in place.

2. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing a heel breast flap blank of greater area than the finished heel breast fiap desired, simultaneously trimming and ornamenting said breast flap and'thereafter securing said flap in place on the breast of the heel.

3. A method of making a shoe, comprising the steps of attaching to an upper a sole providing an integral heel breast fiap blank, attaching a heel to said shoe in its final position, simultaneously trimming and ornamenting said breast flap to give it a decorative appearance and there- 'after securing said flap in place on the breast of the heel. i

4. A method of making a shoe having a decorated heel breast fiap, comprising the steps of attaching a heel and a. hole having an unomamented heel breast flap to said shoe in final position, thereafter trimming and simultaneously ornamenting said breast flap, and thereafter securing said fiap in place on the breast of the heel..-

5. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing a heel breast flap of greater area than the finished heel breast flap desired, thereafter trimming said heel breast flap and simultaneously providing said flap with a cut out ornamentation and thereafter securing said flap in place on the breast of the heel. I

6. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing a heel breast flap of greater area than the finished heel breast flap desired, thereafter trimming said flap to an ornamental contour and simultaneously embossing said flap to provide an embossed ornamentation, and thereafter securing said flap in place.

'7. A method of making a shoe which comprises attaching a heel breast flap blank to said shoe, trimming said breast flap and simultaneously providing a cut-out ornamentation of said flap, and thereafter securing said ornamented fiap in place on the breast of the heel, with the edge of said flap spaced inwardly of and non-parallel to the contour of said breast portions.

8. The combination with a shoe comprising a heel at least partially surrounded by a covering material, of a heel breast flap having a cut-out ornamentation and secured to the breast of said heel in overlapping relation with said covering material with the edge of said flap spaced inwardly from and non-parallel to the contour of the breast of the heel to Provide in conjunction 'with said covering material an ornamented heel breast.

9. A method of making a shoe having a decorative heel breast fiap, comprising the steps of attaching a heel and a sole having a heel breast flap blank to said shoe in final position, thereafter positioning said heel breast fiap blank between opposed members of a cutting device having a cutting edge of a contour corresponding to the desired ornamental contour to be imparted to the flap, actuating said device to out from said blank a heel breast flap of ornamental shape and of lesser area than the breast portion of said heel, and thereafter securing said heel breast flap in place on the breast of the heel, with the edge of said flap spaced inwardly from and non-parallel to the contour of said breast portion to provide an ornamental effect.

and sole affixed to said upper, covering material covering theback and sides and at least a por-* tion of the breast of said heel, said sole having a heel breast fiap of an appearance contrasting 10. In a shoe comprising an upper and a heel I

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