US2349783A

US2349783A - Necktie sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2349783A
Application number: US379598A
Authority: US
Inventors: Abraham I Zimmer
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1941-02-19
Filing date: 1941-02-19
Publication date: 1944-05-23
Anticipated expiration: 1961-05-23

Description

May 23, 1944;

v A. I. ZIMMER NECKTIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 l\ o 2 x Q P h g Q \Q I fi z x mm 1 I 111m *3 Q a i a ,Jl E: #2 gill I mvamor g flfiggl l lll Inge/204w g) b Y O ATTORNEYS 2 May 23, 1944. A. 1. ZIMMER NECKTVIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Fb. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEYS A. l. ZIMMER NECKTIE SEWING MACHINE May 23, 1944.

Filed Feb. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 lll I||l Ill L VENTOR Abra am 1 Zz'irzmer BY ATTORNEYS Patented May 23, 1944 UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE Abraham 1., Zimmer, Bridgeport, Conn. Application February 19, 1941, Serial No. 379,598

18 Claims. (01. 112 -174) The present invention relates to a slip stitching machine for pieces of fabric, and especially for sewing the linings to the covers of neckties.

Inthe fabrication of neckties, a lining of some suitable stiffening material is generally fastened to the cover of the tie by slip stitching a thread through the material of the tie cover and of the lining, so that the sewn fabrics are loosely but similarly distributed along the thread and may arrange themselves freely with reference to the stitches, in order to avoid stretching or bunching which would cause unsightly deformation of the finished tie.

For this purpose, the tie cover is. doubled on itself, inside out,fplaced against the lining with a seam line inwardly spaced from the joined edges of the cover coinciding substantially with the center of the lining, and the fabrics slip stitched together along the seam line. After knotting the thread at opposite ends, the cover is pulled inside out, whereby the lining is disposed within the cover.

Various machines have been proposed hereto fore for slip stitching ties in the aforesaid manner. fiat support, a needle carrying a thread being reciprocated between needle bars oppositely disposed above and below the support. In such machines, the mechanism for reciprocating the needle is relatively complicated and expensive.

In other proposed constructions, the material is crimped or folded in convolutions by clamping the fabric between fluted plates or combs, or by feeding it between endless chains having intermeshing teeth and a thread, carried by a straight needle disposed in a channel formed in the foldforming teeth, is stitched through the successive convolutions of the fabric. In these machines, however, the engagement of the teeth or foldforming means with relatively long stretches of the fabrics tends to deform them unequally so that the material of the cover and lining are often unequally distributed along the thread, causing the tie to wrinkle or twist when completed. This effect is especially aggravated because of the fact that the materials of the cover and lining are generally cut and sewn along a bias which render them especially subject to unequal deformation or stretching during the sewmg.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a relatively simple machine capable of successive operations for sewing the lining to the cover of neckties whereby objectionable stretching or deformation of the materials is substan In some cases, the fabric is sewn on a tially avoided, and the operation and manipulation of the machine is characterized by utmost convenience.

It is also an object to provide automatic guide means for positioning the lining of the tie during the sewing operation.

A further object is to provide means for automatically exposing the thread and needle so that the threadmay be conveniently manipulated at the desired point in the sewing operation.

According to the present invention, the difficulties heretofore encountered are avoided by providing a machine having crimping or folding means whichact upon the fabric'to be sewn substantially only at the point where the folds are pierced by the needle, and'preferably including means to hold the folds of the material against displacement while impaled upon the needle, without applying any tension which would tend to deform the fabric being sewn.

The machine of the presentinvention comprises as a crimping means, a rack having transverse teeth upon which the tie fabrics are placed in the desired relation, and a pinion adapted to mesh with the rack and driven backward and forward to roll over the fabrics, whereby a series of folds or convolutions in the fabrics are progressively formed and released.- A longitudinal groove formed in the teeth of the rack and an aligned annular groove in the teeth of the pinion receive and guide a needle, traveling with the pinion, the needle tip being located during its forward stroke within the grooves at the intermeshed portion of the pinion with the'rack, so that each fold of thefabric is pierced and impaled on the needle as it is formed.

In order to prevent displacement of the impaled folds, a'blanket is spread by a presser member over the folded and impaled fabric on the rack directly after it is released by the pinion during the forward stroke of the needle, and withdrawn during the return stroke. 7 v

The needle tip carries a thread through the folds of the fabric. After the thread is carried beyond the end of the fabric, the free end of the thread is manually grasped, and during the returnstroke of the pinion and needle, the thread is held taut so that the needle backs up over the thread through the pierced fabric, leaving a single slipstitch securing the cover and lining of the necktie together. After the pinion rolls backward to release the tie fabrics, the thread is severed without unthreading the needle and the machine is ready for operation upon another tie.

An advantageous feature of the machine is the provision of a lost motion coupling between the A further feature is the provision of automatic v guide means traveling with the pinion, for positioning the tie lining tranversely of the rack with reference to the sewing groove, so that thelining will be sewn along its center. 7

'As a result of its convenient and efficient .ar-

, rangement, the machine of the present inven tion, evenin the hands of an inexperienced 013- erator, is capable of sewing ties in rapid succession, at a rate, for instance, of more than sixty per hour. At the same time, undesirable deformation or stretchingof the fabric is substantially eliminated, and the finished tie is characterized by the same standard of quality as that obtained by hand sewing.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will appearhereinafter from the following description, referring to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a tie-sewing machine according to the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine.

Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical cross-section substantially along the line 3-3 in Fig. 2, showing the needle mounting.

Fig. 4 is a vertical cross-section of the needle mounting and its supporting structure along the line 4-4 of Fig. 3, during the forward or piercing stroke of the machine.

Fig. 5 is a vertical cross-section of the foldforming mechanism along theline 55 in Fig. 2 showing the needle during the forward or piercing stroke.

Fig. 6 is similar to Fig. 4, but shows the needle mounting during the reverse or return stroke.

Fig. 7 is similar to Fig. 5, but shows the foldforming mechanism and needle during the reverse or return stroke.

Fig. 8 is a transverse vertical cross-section substantially along the line 8-8 of Fig. 2 showing the automatic guide means for a necktie lining.

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary cross-section of the fabric folding means as seen in Fig. 5 but showing the relative position of the fabric and needle during the sewing operation. I

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the forward end of thecarriage for the fold-forming member, showing a modified mounting of the automatic guide means for the necktie lining.

The machine of the present invention comprises a supporting frame II] which, in the illustrated embodiment, carries the driving mechanism. The latter is adapted to drive the machine eratively connected by means of a belt 2| to a pulley 22 secured on a threaded shaft 23, which is adapted, upon rotation alternately in opposite directions, to operate the machine. In order to drive the pulley 23 from the motor II in alternate directions, the shaft I9 carries a clutch member 24 secured thereon between the idlers H and I8. Suitable friction disks 25 are secured to adjacent faces of the said clutch member and idler pulleys. The shaft I9 is axially slidable in its bearings and is accordingly adapted to engage the clutch member with one or the other of the idlers l! or 18 by motion to the left or right as shown in Fig. 1, or to disengage the clutch member 24 from the idlers by remaining in intermediate position.

For controlling the position of the clutch, a collar 213 secured to the shaft I9 is engaged by the bifurcated end of a dog 2'! pivotally mounted at 28 t0 the frame ill of the machine. By pivotal movement of dog 21, shaft 19 and clutch member 24 are movable between the two clutch-engaging positions A pair of diagonal springs 2% are attached at one end to the frame and; at the other ends, to a cross bar 39 on opposite sides of the pivot 25. The cross bar rigidly secured to the dog 21 by diagonal braces 21a and diagonal springs 29 are adapted to urge the clutch member 24 normally into intermediate disengaged position. A treadle 3| pivoted at its center to the frame Ill and connected at one. end by a link 32 to one end of the cross bar 36 is adapted to rock the latter about its pivot fi for engaging the clutch memher 2 5 with one or the other of the idlers I! or Iii for forward or reverse drive when the treadle is rocked backward or forward about its central pivot.

The opposite end of cross bar 311 is vertically extended. the end 33 thereof terminating adjacent the path of a linearly movable carriage C', hereinafter described, which is driven in forward or reverse directions (to the right or left respectively in Figs. 1 and 2) when the clutch member 24 engages idler pulley H or [3 respectively. The said carriage is provided with a pair of spaced stop means I and I06, the latter (6%) being adapted to engage the vertically extending end of cross bar 39 and to move it forwardly when the carriage C reaches a predetermined position adjacent the end of its forward stroke; and the former v( Hi5) being adapted to engage the cross bar end 33 and to move it rearwardly when the carriage C reaches another predetermined position adjacent the end of its reverse stroke. Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, forward movement of cross bar end 33 by stop means its rocks cross bar 36 in clockwise direction about pivot 28 against the manual pressure on the pedal, causing dog 21 to slide shaft 59 and clutch member 2 3 to the right, thus disengaging said clutch member from idler pulley ii, and interrupting forward operation of the driven parts of the machine, including the carriage .0. Similarly, rearward movement of the cross bar end 53 by stop means I05 rocks cross bar 39 counterclockwise about pivot 28 against the manual pressure on the pedal, so that dog 2! slides shaft l9 and clutch member 24 to the left, disengaging said clutch member from idler pulley i8, and interrupting reverse operation of the driven parts of the machine, including carriage C.- The said pair of stop means thus fixes the limits of the stroke of the reciprocated mechanism. Y

' A stationary or work-holding portion of the sewing machine comprises a rack 34 having transverse teeth, preferably disposed in a horizontal plane, and supported by the frame It]. A grooved guide plate 35 is disposed along one side of the rack, and a shelf 36 extends laterally outward from the guide plate. A pair of parallel guide bars 31 and an intermediate grooved guide 38 for a needle mounting extendoutward from the end of the rack 34 and are secured together by a yoke member 39 supported, for instance, by braces 40 fastened to the frame Ill. The threaded shaft 23 is journaled in the yoke member 39, while the other end of the said shaft is journaled in a bearing 4| carried by the frame 18 below the rear end of the rack 34.

The reciprocally movable or foldand stitchforming portion of the machine comprises a carriage C, supported on the rack 34 and guide bars 31, and adapted to be moved forwardly over the rack, or retracted rearwardly therefrom to the outer end of the guide bars 31. At its rear end, the carriage C comprises a frame 42 slidably engaging bars 31 to guide the carriage longitu'dinally and to retain it against lateraldisplacement. The frame 42 also includes a threaded boss 43 engaging the threaded shaft 23 so that rotation of the latter in alternate directions is adapted to move the carriage forward or backward over the rack 34 and bars 31.

A pair of lateral braces 44 secured together by means of a number of transverse braces 45 form a framework for the carriage. At their rear end. the members 44 are inwardlyv extended and secured to the vertical frame .42, while at the forward end, they are curved upward and support a pair of bearings 46 for a transverse shaft 41. The latter carries a gear or pinion 48 adapted to mesh with the teeth of therack 34 and to roll forward or backward thereon as the carriage moves in alternate directions. 4

In order to provide a passage for receiving a needle, a groove 49 is formed. longitudinall in the teeth of the rack 34 along the path of pinion and a correspondin groove 50 in alignmenttherewith is formed in the guide member 38. An annular groove 5| is provided in the teeth of pinion 48, said groove registering with, groove 49 so as to permit a needle positioned in the latter groove to pass beneath the pinion. As shown, for instance, in Fig.5, the grooves 49 and 5| do not extend to the roots of the intermeshed teeth of pinion 48 and rack 34. but are just deep enough to provide clearance for a needle extending under the pinion. Thus, the portion of the needle which extends through the passage formed by the grooves in the intermeshed teeth of the rack and pinion is loosely held against verti al displacement substantially in intermed ate-position between the tips and roots of the intermeshed teeth. I

The needle 58 is mounted for movement by and withv the carriage C, but a lost motion connection between the two is provided so that upon reversing the direction of movement of the carriage, the needle initially remains stationar until the carriage has moved a short distance, and then moves together with the carriage to the end of its stroke. As a result, the position of the needle 58, relative to the carriage C and pinion 48 carried thereby, is altered longitudinally upon reversing the direction of movement of the carriage, by a distance corresponding to the extent of the lost motion.

For this purpose, the needle mounting comprises a block 52 suspended by means of lateral flanges 53 in a keyway 54 formed by the inwardly extending rear ends of the lateral braces 44 and a grooved plate 55 secured to said lateral members. The block 52 is adapted to slide 1ongi tudinally'in keyway 54 constituting a lost motion connection, its motion being limited by a transverse strip 58 secured to the members 44 at the rear of plate 55 and by a transverse brace 51 and spacer plate 510 extending transversely between members 44 below the forward end of plate 55. II I I A portion of block 52 also extends downward into the groove 50 of guide member 38. The needle 58, having an eye 59 at its sharpened tip, has its butt end bent at right angles as shown at 58a and the latter is carried in a vertical hole 60 in block 52.

grooves

49 and 58 through a passage 6| cut inthe base of the block 52. During forward movement of carriage C the block 52 i retracted to the rear end of the keyway 54 as shown in Fig 4, Y

and the tip of the needle is positioned just below the pinion 48 as shown in Fig. 5; while during rearward movement of the carriage'the block 52 moves to the forward end of the keyway 54 as shown in Fig. 6, and the tip of the needle extends a short distance beyond the pinion 48 as indicated in Fig. 7, I

I The carriage C also includesa presser plate 62 secured to the transverse braces 45 by means of spacer plates 63, the axis of presser plate being substantially aligned with

grooves

49 and 50. The presser plate ,62 extends rearwardly to within a short distance of block 52, while the nose or forward end 64 of the presser plateextends presser plate 82 and extending rearwardl toward the needle mounting block 52.

A blanket 66, preferably of smooth surfaced fabric, for instance, oilcloth, is fastened at one end to the rear end of the rack 34 and extends forward between the presser plate 62 and the rack to the nose 64 of the presser plate. Here it is doubled back over the cover plate 65. and is secured to a transverse reenforcing strip 61. The latter is joined at both sides by means of a pair of chains 68 passing over two pairs of pulleys 69 to suitable blanket tensioning means, suchas, for instance, the tension springs 68a supported by the frame In of the machine, whereby ,the blanket is maintained under substantiallypon, stant tension during reciprocating motion of the carriage C. I I Accordingly, as the carriage C moves forward, the presser plate 62 moves over the blanket 85, pressing it against the teeth of the rack 34,

while the reversed portion or free end ofthe blanket slides over the cover plate 85, spreading itself before the nose 64 of the presser plate. During rearward motion of the carriage, the

operation is reversed and the blanket is progressively drawn up around the nose of the presser plate from the rack. Since one end ofthe blanket is secured to the rear end of the (rack, the portionthereof which is spread over the rack does not move relative to the teeth of the rack after it is belowthe presser plate. Thu s",

The needle extends forward in the blanket is adapted to, hold material folded into the teeth of the rack against displacement relative thereto, without applying any force tending to stretch or deform the said material;

To insure that the needle 58 is retained in

grooves

49 and 50 during the forward stroke of the carriage, that is, to prevent it from buckling upward because of the resistance offered by the material to the piercing action of the needle tip, a thin resilient metal strip 12 is slidably carried in lateral grooves 13 in the walls of groove 59, and extends forward between the presser plate 62 and blanket 65 above groove 49 in rack 34, the lower surface of the presser plate being grooved as=indicated at 14 to bring the lower surface of strip'lZ flush with the surface of the presser plate itself. At'its rear end, strip 12 is apertured to receive the'depending portion of block 52 which seats in the guide groove 59. Thus, the strip 12 is adapted who moved together with the block-52 when the carriage C is advanced or retracted, and is movable relative to the carriage like needle 59 as a result'of the lost motion connection formed by block 52 and its keyway 54. I

Since the groove'l3 which receives strip 72 is at a lower level than the upper surface of the rack 34 over which the strip 12 must slide, the walls of groove 50 are cut away adjacent the rear end of the rack as indicated at in Fig. l to permit the strip 12 to rise to the higher level ofthe presser plate 92 during forward motion of the carriage. or to return to the lower level during the retunstroke, Y

During the forward stroke of the carriage C, the block52 carrying needle 58 and strip 12 is retracted in keyway 54 as shown in Figs. 4 and. 5

by friction, and because ofthe resistance of the I material being sewn to passage of the needle, during the return stroke, the block is similarly moved to the forward limit of the keyway, causing the needle 58 to protrude beyond the pinion 48 as shown in Figs. 6 and 7. To prevent the forward end of strip 72 from coming in contact with the blanket 66 during forward motion of the strip, so that anytendency of the strip to catch in the blanket. fabric is avoided, the forward end of strip 12 is given a normal upward flexure, while the presser plate 92 is provided withfan aperture 16 near its nose into which the upwardly flexed end of the strip extends as shown in Fig. 5. During the return stroke of the carriage C, strip 12 moves forward together with block 52, relative to the presser plate, and the forward end of strip 12 flexes u ward through the aperture l6 as shown in Fig. '7.

'At the forward end of the carriage C, a hinged guard 11 is provided secured to the endsof the lateral braces 44 and adapted to cover the pinion 48 so that the fingers of the operator are protected from becoming pinched between the pinion 48 and the rack 94 upon which it rolls. especially during the forward stroke of the carriage. A flange 18 bent outward from the edge of the guard TI and offset from the groove 59 by a distance equal to the desired width of a hem for the tie cover is adapted to serve as a guide for manually positioning the edge of the tie cover material so that it may be sewn along a line parallel to its edges.

In order to serve as a guide for material of variable width, especially the lining of a tie, which is generally sewn'along its axis or parallel thereto, automtic positioning or guide means is provided at the forward end of the carriage.

'tive to the rack 34 and its groove 49.

The guide means G is shown as comprising a transverse base plate 19 extending across the rack 34 just ahead of the pinion 48 and its guard 'l'l. At one end, the base plate 19 is rigidly secured to a block 89 carried in a keyway 8| running the length of the rack 34 in the guide plate 95. The block is joined by means of a rigid link 82 to a projection 83 extending outward from the forward end of the carriage C adjacent one of the bearings 46 carried by one of the lateral braces 44. A bolt 84 carried in an aperture in extension 83 and extending through a longitudinal slot in link 82 constitutes a lost-motion coupling which permits limited longitudinal motion of block 89 and its associated guide mechanism relative to the pinion 48 and the forward end of the carriage C. The block 80 is secured by the said coupling against transverse displacement relative to the forward end of the carriage, and thus, its engagement with keyway 8l' serves to retain the forward end of the carriage including pinion 48 against lateral displacement rela- The bolt 134 permits limited vertical motion of the forward end of the carriage relative to the rack 34, which may be adjusted by loosening or tightening the bolt 94 to provide more or less clearance between the intermeshed teeth of the rack 34 and pinion 49.

A plunger 85 is slidably carried in a transverse horizontal. squared passage 89 in block 80, A roller 8! carried by the lower end of a stud 88 which is secured to plunger 85 and which protrudes below the base of block 89 through a transverse slot 89 in the latter, engages the walls of a groove or track 99 of predetermined contour as shown in Fig. 2 in the base of the keyway 9!. As shown in the drawin s. enga ement of roller 9'! in groove '99 causesplun er 85 to move inward in a predetermined manner as the'carriage moves forward and reverses its motion durin the reverse stroke.

A pair of gau e plates 9| and 92 are slidablv mounted upon the base plate !9 preferably equidistant from groove 49 in rack 34 and its coaligned annular groove 5! in the pinion 4B. These gauge plates are adapted to move simultaneously toward or away from each other along base plate 79 through the same distance by plunger 85. To this end, the plunger 85 is directly connected to gauge plate 9| by means of a rod 93 and to gauge plate 92 by means of a downwardly extending hook 94, a cable 95 passin under the base plate 19 and over a pulley 96 mounted on a lug 91 secured to the end of the said base plate opposite block 80. The said cable is connected to the outer end of a rod 98, slidably supported in a boss 99 mounted on the base plate 19, and carrying the gauge plate 92 at its inner end. A compression spring I09 supported against the boss 99 normally urges the gauge plate 92 toward its companion. Accordingly, as plunger 85 moves backward or forward in its passage 89, the two gauge plates move toward or away from each other, remaining equidistant from the groove 49.

Each of the gauge plates 9| and 92 carries a flange i9! extendinghorizontally inward therefrom. These flanges are adapted to pass over a piece of material, such as the lining of a tieto prevent the edges of the fabric from curling upward against the gauge plates asthe sewing carriage C moves over the material, while the gauge plates automatically position the material and align its axis with the groove 49, before it is folded by the pinion 48, groove 90 being so constructed as to cause the gauge plates to move together r apart during the forward or sewing stroke of the carriage in conformity with the contour of the lining material. A spool I02 for thread is shown mounted at one side of the machine at the rear of rack 34, the spool mounting having an eyelet I03 to guide the thread. The lug 91 at the free end of the base plate I9 carries a knife I04 for severing the thread at the end of each sewing operation.

The pair of stops I05 and I08, mentioned above, protrude respectively from the forward and rear end of the carriage C in alignment with the vertically extending end 33 of cross bar 30 adjacent the rear end of the rack 34. As hereinbefore explained, these stops engage the end 33 respectively at the conclusion of the forward or 'return stroke of the carriage to move the clutch '24 to neutral position, thus fixing the limits the operating stroke of the machine.

As indicated in Fig. 2, the forward end of rack 34 is cut away at one side, the cutout I0! extending across groove 49, but terminating short of the width of pinion 48. Accordingly, the pinion is adaptedto advance over the cutout but at the same time to retain its meshed engagement with the teeth of the rack 34. The stop means I06, located at the rear of the carriage C, is so disposed that the end of the forward stroke of the carriage is reached after the pinion 48 has advanced a short distance over the cutout I01 while still maintaining its meshed relation with the rack. The tip of the needle 58 which is disposed below the pinion 48 during its forward stroke protrudes a corresponding distance beyond the end of groove 49 in the cutout IO'I at the-end of the stroke.

Upon engaging the clutch momentarily for reverse operation, the carriage is retracted a short distance while the needle and its mounting as well as block 80 and its associated guide mechanism G remain stationary because of the lost motion connections, the keyway 54 sliding back ward over block 52 and bolt 84 sliding rearwardlyin the slot of link 82, leaving the needle tip protruding to a point between the guide mechanism G and the pinion 48, beyond the latter and its guard", in the cutout I0'I. Upon arresting operation of the machine in this-position, the thread in the needle may be readily grasped by the operator for manipulation during the remainder o the return stroke.

i The operation of the machine is as follows: For threading, the carriage is initially retracted to the end of the return stroke until the clutch is disengaged by contact of the stop means I05 with the end 33 of cross bar 30. The tip of the needle 58 still protrudes beyond pinion 48 and its guard 11 by virtue of the slidable mounting of the needle-holding block 52 in keyway 54;

The lining guide G mounted upon base plate I9,

is positioned ahead of the needle tip because of 1 its lost motion attachment to the carriage C, permitting convenient access to the tip of the needle. A thread from spool I02 is carried through eyelet I03 and threaded through eye 59 of the needle, leaving a length thereof hanging freely at one side of the needle tip.

The end of a lining I08 for a tie is now placed beneath the flanges IOI carried by gauge plates 9| and 92 of the lining guide G, which positions the lining centrally above groove 49. The tie cover I09, doubled upon itself wrong side out, is positioned over lining guide G andlining I 08,

its edges being aligned with the guide I8 on the pinion guard 11, and its end brought down substantially even with the end, of the lining I08 engaged by guide G. The clutch is then engaged by rocking the treadle 3| to engage the clutch for forward operation of the machine. As the carriage C begins its forward stroke, the needle 58 and its mounting block 52 and the guide means G remain stationary while the lost motion of the carriage occurs, that is, until keyway 54 slides over block 52 and bolt 84 reaches the forward end of the slot in link 82. Thereafter the needle 58 and lining guide G move forward with the carriage, with the tip of the needle positioned directly below the pinion 48.

As pinion 48 advances over the tie cover I09 and its lining I08, the pinion teeth depress the material between the teeth of rack 34 as shown in Fig. 9, while the needle 58, carrying the thread and guided by coacting annular groove 5| of the pinion 48 and groove 49 of rack 34, pierces and impales each of the folds or convolutions in the material as they are formed. The lining I08 is automatically positionedby gauge plates 9| and 92, while tie cover I09 is, guided manually so that its edges lie beneath the guide flange 18 on the pinion guard 11.

As the impaled fabric is released by the teeth orpinion 48, the separate folds arrange themselves freely between the teeth of the rack. However, the nose 64 of presser plate 62 spreads the blanket 66 over the tips of the rack teeth, and as a result of the pressure applied by the presser plate, the blanket retains the fabric against any material displacement relative to the rack. Since the spread portion of the blanket is fixed relative to the teeth of the rack, the pressing or clamping action has no tendency to subject the material to undue stretching or deformation.

. At the end of the forward stroke, the needle passes beyond the endof the necktie material,-

the pinion 48 finallyrolling over the cutout I01, while needle 58 is correspondingly protruded over the cutout. The carriage C is then backed up a short distance, corresponding to the extent of its lost motion, by engaging the clutch in reverse, causing the pinion 48 to roll backward leaving the tip of needle 58 exposed, and the free end of the thread is grasped by the operator and pulled out sufficiently so that the length of the thread from the rear end of the machine is somewhat longer than the finished tie. irne end of the thread is knotted, and while it is pulled more or less taut by the operator in forward direction, the clutch is again engaged in reverse to retract the carriage fully, the needle 58 beginningto move with the carriage 0 when its lost motion is taken up, and backing up along the thread through the apertures in the fabric, until the latter is finally released by pinion48 and the needle 58. A suflicient length of thread is then pulled through the exposed tip of the needle to leave a free end of sufficient length for the next sewing operation, and the thread is then severed at the knife I04 leaving the free end hanging from the needle.

The stitched material is then distributed along the thread, and a secondknot is made in the well-known manner at the severed endto retain the thread in'thefabric.

chine is immediately ready for operation upon another necktie.

. Instead of pulling out a length of thread after v v The tie cover is then pulled inside out over the lining, bringing the backing up the carriage C sufiiciently to expose the needle at the end of the forward stroke, the free end of the thread is knotted, and the end of the sewn fabrics, as well as the thread, is grasped by the operator. While the carriage C is retracted the rest of the way, both the thread and the fabrics are pulled more or less taut, so that as the folds of the fabrics are released by the pinion 48, they are distributed along the thread. The latter is knotted as before after severing at knife I04, and the cover I09 pulled inside out over the lining I 08.

In order to install a new needle it is merely necessary to remove strip 56 at the rear end of the carriage, which limits the keyway 54, advance the carriage C until the needle block 52 is free of said keyway, and lift the block out of groove 50, leaving the butt end of the needle 58 protruding upward through the aperture in strip 72 through which block 52 normally extends. The butt end of the needle is then bent upward through the aperture in strip 12, and is withdrawn from the

grooves

50 and 49. A new needle is inserted through said aperture, passing below the strip 12, and the butt end is disposed to project upward through the aperture in said strip. The block 52 is slipped over the butt end of the needle, inserted in the groove 5!), and pushed forward into the keyway 54. Strip 56 is then replaced, and the machine is ready for rethreading and further use.

The automatic guide means G for the lining of the tie is disposed as mentioned above at the forward'end of the carriage C. while the guide means is shown in Figs. 1 to 9, as supported on the surface of the rack 34 in advance of the pin-v ion as and its guard 11, it need not be located ahead of the said pinion, Instead, it may be disposed, as indicated in Fig.,10 for instance, above and somewhat to the rear of the said pinion, in which case it may besupported on the lateral framemembers 44 of the carriage C". With this arrangement, the tie cover )9 is first placed on the rack 34' and the lining I08 is placed on top of the cover. The lining is doubled back over pinion guard TI and cover plate 65' and is positioned below the flanges in! between

gauge plates

91 and 92 in the same manner as hereinbefore described. The guide member [8 on the pinion guard ll must be modified to extend out- Ward from the side of the forward end of the carriage C so that the lining may pass unobstructed over the edge of the pinion guard. The gauge plates 9! and 82 are mechanically actu ated in the same manner as hereinbefore described by block 80' and roller 81 sliding in key way BI and groove 90'. Since the guide means G does not interfere with access to the needle for threading or forgrasping the thread at the forward end of the sewing stroke, no lost-motion coupling between the carriage and block 80 is.

necessary.

Variations and modifications may be, made ries of transverse teeth} a pinion for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said rack having teeth intermeshing with the rack teeth, and

mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the rack, the teeth of the latter having a longitudinal groove therein, and the teeth of said pinion having an annular groove ali ned. with the groove of, said rack, said grooves forming a through'passage between the rack and pinion; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the rack to extend into said through passage; means for reciprocating the pinion relative to the rack; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the rack, the tip of the needle being maintained in the through passage between the pinion and rack during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; said pinion and rack being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and then release a series of folds or convolutions in a piece of fabric overlying the groove of the rack, and

. said needle being adapted to pierce the successive folds as they are formed and to carry a work holder and the rotary member; a needle thread therethrough; driving means, engageable at will, for operating said reciprocating means; and means for automatically disengaging said driving means from said reciprocating means upon said pinion reaching either predetermined limit of its stroke, whereby the limits of said stroke are automatically fixed,

2. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a, work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; and cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder, said means including a limited, free sliding connection between the rotary member reciprocating means and the needle reciprocating means and means for main-v taining the tip of the needle in the through passage between the rotary member and work holder during the forward stroke of the needle and rotary member relative to the work holder, and for projecting said tip a limited distance beyond the intermeshed teeth of the rotary member and work holder in said through passage as an incident to the return stroke of the needle and rotary member; said rotary member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and release a series of folds or convolutions in a piece of fabric overlying the work holder groove, and said needle being adapted to pierce successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough.

3. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eyeat its tip. and mounted withinv the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder; and a lost motion connection between said rotary member-reciprocating means, and said needle-reciprocating means, the tip of the needle being maintained by said needle reciprocating means in the through passage between the work holder and rotary member during the forward stroke of the needle and projected a limited distance beyondthe intermeshed teeth of said work holderand said rotary member as an incident to the return stroke of the latter; said rotary member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and'release a series of folds or convolutions'in a 'piece of fabric overlying the work holder groove, and said needle being adapted to pierce successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough.

- 4. l A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprisinga work holder having on its surface a' series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to rollback and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder,said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member;

a ,needlehavirig an eye at its tip and mounted Within the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; and cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder, said means maintaining the tip of the needle in the through passage between the rotary member and work holder during the forward stroke'of the needle relative to the work holder, and projecting said tip a limited distance beyond the intermeshed portions of the work holder and rotary member, in said through passage during the return stroke of the needle; said rotary member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and release a series of folds or convolutions in a piece of fabric overlying the work holder groove, said needle being adapted to pierce successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough, and a portion of the ridge surface of said workholder including the groove thereof being cut away adjacent its forward end, the mutilated ridges being adapted to maintain intermeshing engagement with said rotary crimping member, and the tip of said needle extending over the cutaway portion at the end of its forward stroke, whereby said needle is manually accessible during the initial portion of the return stroke of said crimping member.

5. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of' said work holder, having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of Said rotary member having a peripheral. groove aligned with the groove ofsaid workholder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the workholderto extend into said through passage; means for reciprocating therotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle inthe groove of the work holder,the tip of the needle being maintained in'said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder, said rotary member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needleto progressively form and release a series of folds 'or convolutionsin apiece of fabric overlying the work holdergroovean'd said needle being adapted to impalesuccessive folds as they are formed and to'carry a thread therethrough; and means to the rear of thero tary member for clamping material crimp'ed thereby and impaled by said needle, against"the work holder, said clamping means engaging said material at spaced intervals, whereby no distorting tension is applied thereto. 1

6. A slip stitching machine for strips offabri'c comprisin a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse'ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positionedon the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the, surface of the Work holder, thelatter having a longitudinal groove traversingthe ridges thereof and the te'eth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between-the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having aneye at its tip andmounted within the groove of the work holder to extend'into said through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; co:

operating means for reciprocating the needlein the groove of the work holder, the tiplof the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder, said rotary member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and release a series of folds or convolutionsin a piece of fabric overlying the .work holder gljOOVe, said needle being adaptedto impale successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough; and means to the rear of th ro,- tary member for clamping material crimped thereby and impaled bysaid needle, said means having an work-engaging portion which main: tainsa fixed position relative to the work holder surface during clamping engagement with the fabric and engaging said fabric at spaced intervals, whereby nodistorting tension is applied to said fabric. l r

7. A slip stitching machinefor strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface. a seriesof transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface ofsaid holder to extend into said through passage;

means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the'needle in'the groove of the Work holder, the tip of the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder, said. rotary; member and work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and release a series of folds orconvolutions in a piece of'fabric overlying the work holder groove, said needle being adaptedto impale successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough; clamping means comprising a flexible blanket-secured at one end to said work holder to the rear of said rotary member; a presser plate reciprocated with said rotary member and extending rearwardly from a point adjacent the rotary member by afdistance sufiicient to extend over substantially all of the folds of a piece of fabric positioned on the work holder when the rotary member reaches the limit of its forward stroke, said presser plate extending said blanket during, its forward stroke over the ridges of the work holder to clamp successive folds of the material, formed by the rotary member and impaled by said needle during their forward stroke against'the' apices of said ridges; and means for withdrawing said blanket from the work holder as itis released by the presser plate during the return strokeiof the latter.

' 8. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a seriesof transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said Work holder having'teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the; latter having a longitudinal groove traversin'g the ridges thereof, and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming'a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its'tip and mounted'within the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage "for progressively impaling successive folds of the fabric as they are formed and for carrying a thread therethrough; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder,

the tip of the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; means to the rear of the rotary'member for clamping material crimpedthereby and impaled by said needle, against the-work holder, said clamping means comprising a flexible blanket secured at one end to said work holder to the rear of said rotary member; a presser plate reciprocated with said rotary member and extending rearwardly from a point adjacent the rotary member by a distance ,sufiicient to extend over substantially-all of the folds of a of fabric positioned on the work holder when the rotary memberreaches' the limit of its forwardstroke, said presser plate extending said blanket during its forward stroke over the ridges of "the work holder to clamp successive folds of the material, formed by the rotary member and impaled by said needle, against the apices'of said ridges, and the free end of -said blanket being doubled back oversaid presser-plate; and means forrtensioning the free end of said blanket rearwardly' over-said presser plate'to effect removal 75 of the blanket from the work holder during the return stroke of the presser plate.

9. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of equally spaced transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on said ridged surface, having teeth intermeshing with the ridges thereof and mounted to roll back and forth over the work-holder surface, said work holder having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof, and, the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of thework holder to extend into said through passage for progressively impaling successive folds of the fabric as they are formed and for carrying a thread therethrough; means for re ciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder, the

tip of the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; clamping means comprising a flexible blanket secured tosaid work holder to the rear of said rotary member; a presser plate reciprocatedwith said rotary member and extending rearwardly from a point adjacent the rotary member by a distance sufiicient to extend over substantially all of the folds of a piece of fabric positioned on the Work holder when the rotary member reaches the limit of its forward stroke, said presser plate extending said blanket over the ridges of the work holder to clamp successive folds of the material, formed by the rotary member and impaled by said needle against the apices of said ridges, and the free end of said blanket being doubled back over said presser plate; and means including resilient tensioning means extending around th rear end of said presser plate and joining the free end of said blanket to a portion of the machine integral with the work holder for maintaining the blanket under a substantially constant tension around said presser plate during reciprocatin motion thereof.

10. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface aseries of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted-to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a'peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove, of the work holder to extend into said' through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the Work holder, the tip of the needle being. maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; and guide means tolthe rear,

of said rotary member and movable with the needle for retaining the latter in the groove of the work holder, said rotary member and Work holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward,

stroke of the needle to progressively form and release a series of folds or convolutions in a piece of fabric overlying the work holder groove,

and-said needle being adapted to pierce and impale successive folds as they are formed and to..,

carry a thread therethrough.

11. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for the rotary member and impaled by said needle against the apices of said ridges; guide means for said needle extending rearwardly from said work holder and comprising a groove aligned with the crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said,

work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove" aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the work holder to extend into said" through passage; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating said needle in the groove of the work holder, the tip of the needle being maintained in said through passage 'holder being adapted to cooperate during the forward stroke of the needle to progressively form and-release a series of folds or convolutions in a piece of fabric overlying the work holder groove, and said needle being adapted to pierce and impale successive folds as they are formed and to carry a thread therethrough.

12. Aslip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said Work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage for progressively impaling successive folds of the fabric as they are formed and for carrying a thread therethrough; means for reciprocating the rotary member relative to the Work holder; cooperating means for reciprocating the: needle in the groove of the work holder, the tip' of the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; clamping means comprising a flexible blanket secured to said work holder to the rear of said rotary member; a presser plate reciprocated with said rotary memher and extending rearwardly from a point adjacent said rotary member by a distance sufficient to extend over substantially all of the folds of the fabric positioned on the work holder when the rotary member reaches the limit of its forward stroke, said presser plate extending said blanket over the ridges of the work holder to clamp successive folds of the material formed by groove of said work holder; and a flexible metal strip slidably mounted to cover the groove of said guide means and reciprocated with the needle for retaining the latter in said groove, said metal strip sliding between the blanket and presser plate above the groove in the work holder during advancement of the rotary member and its associated mechanism over the work holder.

13. A slip stitching machine for strips of fabric comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges; a rotary member for crimping fabric positioned on the surface of said work holder having teeth intermeshing with the ridges of the Work holder and mounted to roll back and forth over the surface of the work holder, the latter having a longitudinal groove traversing the ridges thereof and the teeth of said rotary member having a peripheral groove aligned with the groove of said work holder, said grooves forming a through passage between the work holder and the rotary member; a needle -having an eye at its tip and mounted within the groove of the work holder to extend into said through passage for progressively impaling successive folds of the fabric as they are formed and for carrying a thread therethrough; means for reciprocating the'rotary member relative to the work holder;- cooperating means for reciprocating the needle in the groove of the work holder,

the tip of the needle being maintained in said through passage during the forward stroke of the needle relative to the work holder; clamping means comprising a flexible blanket secured to said work holder to the rear of said rotary member; a presser plate reciprocated with said rotary member and extending rearwardly from a point adjacent said rotary member by a distance sufficient to extend over substantially all of the folds of the fabric positioned on the work holder when the rotary member reaches the limit of its forward stroke, said presser plate extending said blanket over the ridges of the work holder to clamp successive folds of the material formed by the rotary member and impaled by said needle against the apices of said ridges; guide means for said needle extending rearwardly fromsaid work holder and comprising a groove aligned with the groove of said work holder; and a flexible metal strip slidably mounted to cover the groove of said guide means and reciprocated with the needle for retaining the latter in said groove, said metal strip sliding between the blanket and presser plate above the groove and the worktable during advancement of the rotary member and itsassociated mechanism over the Worktable, the forward end of said strip curving away from the worktable through an aperture adjacent the forward end of the presser plate, whereby the strip is prevented from catching in the material of the blanket during its forward stroke.

14. In a machine for slip stitching the lining to the cover of neckties comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges, a reciprocated member having a rotary crimping member thereon for forming successive convolutions or folds in the lining and cover fabrics of a necktie positioned on the said work holder upon motion of said crimping member in one direction, by means of projections on the rotary member adapted to mesh progressively with the ridges of said work holder, said projections and said ridges having coaligned grooves forming a through passage between the intermeshed portions of the crimping member and work holder; a needle having an eye at its tip positioned in the groove of the work holder; means for reciprocating the needle together with said crimping member, said means maintaining the tip of the needle within said through parsage during its forward stroke, and said needle impaling successive folds of the necktie fabrics as they are formed and carrying a thread therethrough; and guide means mounted for movement with said reciprocated crimping member and located in 7 advance of said rotary member for indicating the desired alignment for the edges of the tie cover, parallel to the groove in said work holder, during the forward stroke of the rotary member.

15. In a machine for slip stitching the lining to the cover of neckties comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges, a reciprocated crimping member for forming successive convolutions or folds in the lining and cover fabrics of a necktie positioned on the said work holder upon motion of said member in one direction by means of projectionsv adapted to mesh progressively with the ridges of said work j holder, said projections and said ridges having coaligned grooves forming a through passage between the intermeshed portions of the crimping member and work holder; a needle having an eye at its tip positioned in the groove of the work holder; means for reciprocating the needle together with said crimping member maintaining the tip of the needle within said through passage during its forward stroke, said needle impaling successive folds of the tie fabrics as they are formed and carrying a thread there- ,through; and an automatic guide means mounted adjacent said crimping memberand recipro- "cated therewith, said means including laterally movable edge-engaging means, and means automatically and progressively moving said edgeengaging means to position the lining of thetie relativeto said groove before it is engaged by the crimping member.

direction by means of projections adapted to mesh progressively withthe ridges of said work holder, said projections and said ridges having coaligned grooves forming a through passage between the intermeshed portions of the crimping member and work holder; a needle having an eye atit's'tip and positioned in the groove of the work holder; means for reciprocating, the needle together with said crimping member maintaining the tip of the needle within said through passage duringits forward stroke, said needle impaling successive folds of the tie fabrics as they are formed and carrying a thread therethrough; and automatic guide means mounted adjacent said crimping member and reciprocated therewith for positioning the. lining of a tie relative to the groove in said work holder, said guide means comprising a support over which the lining is guided before it is folded by the crimping member and a pair of guide members for engaging the respective edges'of the lining adjacent said support and moving simultaneously toward or away from the groove in said work holder to conform with the contour of said lining, incident to the forward motion of said crimping member and its associated mechanism.

17. In a machine for slip stitching the lining to the cover of neckties comprising a work holder having on its surface a series of transverse ridges, a reciprocated crimping member for forming successive convolutions or folds in the lining and cover fabrics of a necktie positioned on the said work holder upon motion of said member in one direction, by means of projections adapted to mesh progressively with the ridges of said work holder, said projections and said ridges having coaligned grooves forming a through passage between the intermeshed portions of the crimping member and work holder; a needle having an eye at its tip positioned in the groove of the work holder; means for reciprocating the needle together with said crimping member maintaining the tip of the needle within said through passage during its forward stroke, said needle impaling successive folds of the tie fabrics as they are formed and carrying a thread therethrough; and an automatic guide means supported on the surface of the work holder adjacent to and in advance of the crimping member for progressively positioning the lining of a tie relative to the groove in the work holder, said means comprising a support over which the lining fabric passes before it is folded by the crimping member, and a pair of guide members for engaging the respective edges of the lining adjacent said support, said members being interconnected for simultaneous movement toward and away from said groove; an actuator for moving said guide members; and a track adjacent said work holder engaging said actuator and adapted to move said guide members incident to the forward motion of the crimping member and its associated guide means relative to the Work holder, to conform with the predetermined contour of the lining of the tie.

18. In a machine for slip stitching together a pair of superposed differently shaped strips of fabric along predetermined sewing lines respectively, said machine having movable means for progressively crimping the superposed fabric strips, and a needle movable longitudinally along a predetermined path for impaling the folds of the crimped fabrics, and carrying the thread therethrough, automatic guide means cooperating with said crimping means for engaging the edges of the underlying strip. of, fabric S0 as to position it progressively relative to said needle path in advance of the crimping operation; and visible indicator means movable with said crimp ing means and having a predetermined position transversely of the machine relative to saidineedle path for indicating the proper position at any point in the crimping stroke of the overlying strip with reference to the sewing line of the superposed strips of fabric.

ABRAHAM I. ZIMMER.