US2345640A - Gauging device for setting snap fasteners - Google Patents

Description

April 1944. J. P. TRECIOKAS ETAL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR S Java& 1. Jrenakas ZQdward A. Mac ('aul ORNE April B 1944. J. P, TRECIOKAS ET AL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4 SheetsSheet 2 INVENTORS Jaco5 P. Trpczakas A dM/ard IY. Maz C'oul April 4,- 1944.

J. P. TRECIOKAS ET AL 2,345,640 GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 aco rec/o as EgQvard/Y. Mac C'oul ATTOR EY April 1944. J. P. TRECIVOKAS EIAL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR 8 Java 6 P. Train/as bdward ILMac (oul ORNEY.

Patented Apr. 4, 1944 GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Jacob P. Treciokas, Oakville, Conn., and Edward H. MacCoul, Oak Park, Ill., assignor to Scovill Manufacturing Company,

Waterbury,

Conn, a corporation of Connecticut Application September 12, 1941, Serial No. 410,532

6 Claims.

The present invention relates to caus g vices for assisting in setting snap fastener elements and aims to provide certain improvements therein. More particularly it relates to the combination with a machine for attaching snap fastener elements, of gauging devices for assisting operators in definitely positioning the points at which such snap fastener elements are to be attached to a part of a garment with respect to primary fastener means, such as a stringer of slide fastener elements or a series of buttons, carried by the garment.

In various types of wearing apparel as now manufactured, slide fasteners are employed as the primary fastening means for securing a closure for the garment. In addition to these primary closure means, the complemental parts of the garment also frequently have thereon, secondary closure means. This is particularly so with the upper front portions of mens trousers,

where, in addition to the slide fasteners on the fiy, snap fasteners, because of their neat appearance and ease of use, have come to supplant the buttons usually employed as the secondary.

closure means.

The application of these snap fasteners to trouser fronts, however, has presented manufacturin difficulties, since said fasteners must be quickly and accurately applied to the garment parts, and in many cases preferably before the garments are completed, in order that the backs of the fastener elements should not extend through and be visible at the front of the garment.

teners, so that the closure provided by one set of fasteners will not cause wrinkling in the garment when the second set is closed.

Accordingly, the primary object of our invention is to provide, in combination with a snap fastener setting machine, gauging means for assisting an operator in definitely positioning the points on the garment parts at which the snap fastener elements are to be attached.

gauging means are made adjustable, so that the points at which the snap fastener elements are to be attached to the garment parts may be varied within certain limits.

Said snap fastener elements must also be oriented in definite relation to the slide fas- These H gauging means may be devised for cooperation The invention will be better understood from the detailed description which follows when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings showing certain pref-erred embodiments of our constructions, and wherein:

Figures 1 and 2 show a front elevation and a side elevation, respectively, of a right hand machine with gauging devices for setting the stud and post elements of snap fasteners on the underlying flap of the fiy front of trousers.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a front elevation and a side elevation, respectively, of a left hand machine with somewhat modified forms of gauging devices for setting the cap and socket elements of snap fasteners on the overlying flap of the fly front of trousers and showing additionally a supplementary gauging table.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the gauging means of Figs. 1 and 2 showing the relation of the work to the gauging devices in the operation of setting the stud and post elements of a first snap fastener on the outer face of the underlying end of a regular or extended type Waistband of trousers.

Fig. '6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 showing the relation of the work to the gauging devices in the operation of setting the stud and post elements of a second snap fastener on the outer face of the underlying flap of a fly closure of a regular waistband of trousers.

Fig. 7 is a View similar to Fig. 6 showing the relation of the work tothe gauging devices in the operation of setting the stud and post elements of a second snap fastener on the outer face of the underlying non-extended end of an extended waistband for trousers and wherein the overlying end of the waistband extends beyond the fly closure and the first stud having been applied as in Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the gauging means of Figs. 3 and 4 showing the relation of the work in the operation of setting the cap and socket elements of a first snap fastener on the underside of the overlying end of a regular waistband for trousers prior to the slide fastener carrying portion of the fly being folded back and sewed in place.

Fig. -9 is a view similar to Fig. 8 showing the relation of the work in the operation of setting the cap and socket elements of a second snap fastener on the underside of the overlying flap of a fly closure of a regular waistband for trousers prior to the slide fastener carrying portion of the fly being folded back and sewed in place.

Fig. 10 is a perspective "view of the supplemental gauging means of Figs. 3 and 4 showing the relation thereof to the work in the operation of setting the cap and socket elements of a first snap fastener on the underside of an extended waistband for trousers prior to applyin said waistband to the trousers.

Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the supplemental gauging means of Figs. 3 and 4 showing the relation thereof to the work in the operation of setting th cap and socket elements of a second snap fastener on the underside of an extended waistband for trousers prior to applying said waistband to the trousers.

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a fly front of trousers having a regular waistband with complemental snap fasteners attached thereto.

The gauging devices of the present invention are applicable to any type of fastener setting machine and by way of illustration we have shown our gauging devices in the accompanying drawings as applied to a fastener setting machine of the general type disclosed in the patent to Warner, No. 1,521,141. This fastener setting machine, certain parts of which are shown in dot and dash lines in Figs. 1 to 4, comprises essentially a support or framework 20 having mounted thereon a plunger block 2| within which is a reciprocable plunger die 22 for cooperation with ananvil 23. Flanking the anvil 23 is a pair of clamping jaws 24 for holding one of a pair of cooperating fastener elements preparatory to attaching the same to a piece of fabric or to a part of a garment. In proximity to the plunger die is a recessed bracket 25 adapted to hold the other of the pair of fastener elements preparatory to applying it together with its cooperating fastener element to the piece of fabric or the part of a garment. In supplying cooperating fastener elements to the anvil 23 and to the recessed bracket 25, suitable raceways' 25 and 21 are provided which are adapted to receive the fastener elements from feed hoppers (not shown) in a well known manner. In the operation of such fastener attaching machine it will be understood that the cooperating fastener elements are fed down the raceways 26 and 21 respectively to the bracket 25 and to the anvil 23, respectively, in timed relation and are adapted to be attached to the fabric or garment when the plunger die 22 is caused to descend toward the anvil. The point on the machine at which the fastener elements are attached to the fabric and which is coincident with the axis of the plunger die is known as the setting station.

Referring to Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6, 7 and 12 of the drawings wherein there is shown the application of gauging means for setting the stud and post elements of snap fasteners such as 28 and 29 onto the underlying flap of the-fly front 30 of a pair of regular (Figs. and 6) trousers or of extended band (Figs. 5 and '7) type trousers wherein the flap is already provided'with primary fastening means such as cooperating stringers of slide fasten'er'eleme'nts 3| and 32, the gauging means are mounted on the machine upon a finger supporting bracket 33 and upon a channel member supporting bracket 34. In the extended band type, the overlapping end of the waist band extends beyond the fly closure.

The bracket 33 which is of L-shape has its shorter arm attached to one side of the plunger block 2! by securing means 35. The longer arm of the L-shaped bracket has at its free end a reduced cylindrical extension 36 upon which a pair of finger guide members 31 and 38 are axially adjustably mounted by set screws 31a and 38a. The lower end of the finger 37 is formed with a socket 21b adapted to receive the post of a snap fastener which has already been attached to the fabric or to the garment as will be hereinafter explained. The lower end of the finger 38 is formed with a straight edge 39 for a purpose which will be likewise presently explained.

The channel member supporting bracket 3 has one of its arms 34a disposed in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station and is adjustably mounted for movement in said plane by having its other arm 3% formed with a channel 66 which slidably engages a rib ti on an anchoring bar 42 supported by the machine proper. Th rib 4| is formed with a plurality of spaced tapped openings 43 (Fig. 1) for receiving a clamping screw 44 which extends through a slot in the short arm 34 of the bracket 34. The arm 34a is formed with three slots 45, 46 and 41, the slots 45 and 46 being preferably disposed parallel to each other and at a right angle to the slot 41. Supported on the under face of the bracket arm 34a are a pair of channeled guide members 48 and 49 and a fastener index member 5% The channeled guides 43 and 49 on their under surface are each formed with a channel groove 48a and 49a, respectively, of a size to receive a stringer of slide fastener elements, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, in a manner to be presently explained. Each of said channeled guides 48 and 49 is formed on its upper face with a guide rib (not shown) which slidably engages within one of the slots Q5 and 46 and extending upwardly from said rib is a projecting screwthreadedshank adapted to receive a clamping nut 53!.

From the construction and mounting of the channeled guides 48 and 49 it will be apparent that they are adapted for adjustment relatively to each other, and in view of the adjustability of the bracket 36 along the rib 4i it will be appreciated that the channeled guides are adjustable in a planeperpendicular to the axis of the setting station toward and away from said axis as desired. The fastener index member 50 is also adjustably mounted on the under face of the bracket arm 34a within the slot 4'7 in a manner similar to the mounting of the channeled guides 38 and 49. At its free end the fastener index member 50 is formed with an opening or recess 52 adapted to engage the stud of an attached snap fastener, as will be presently explained.

In Figs. 3, 4 and 8 and 9' we have shown guiding. devices for assisting in setting the cap and socket elements of the snap fastener members 53 and 54 (Fig. 12) upon the opened-up overlying flap of the fly front of mens regular trousers. The basic construction of the fastener attaching machine for attaching the cap and socket elementsis substantially the same as that above described for attaching the stud and post, and pri- ,marily differs therefrom in that the raceways are on a single pedestal or base, although they are herein shown as separate units.

The gauging means for setting the cap and socket elements are substantially counterparts of although not identical with the gauging means for setting the stud and post elements 'hereinbefore described and consist of a finger-supporting bracket and a channeled member supporting bracket 56. The bracket 55 is a mirror image counterpart of the bracket 33 above described and carries on a cylindrical extension 5! a pair of depending guide fingers 53 and '59, each of which is adjustable axially on the extension 51 and at its lower free end is formed with a stud or pin adapted to engage within the socket of an attached snap fastener socket member. The lower end of the finger guide 58 is somewhat offset With respect to the supporting bracket so as to properly locate the point to which the firstset cap and socket unit is to be brought so that the point on the work for receiving the second cap and socket unit will be brought into proper relation with respect to the plunger 22.

The channeled member supporting bracket 55 is a counterpart in most respects to the channeled member supporting bracket 35 above described and has channel guides "6i and 62 which are adjustable in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station. Said bracket 56 primarily difiers from bracket 34 in that it has no member corresponding to the fastener index member 59.

For applying the cap and socket elements to the overlapping end of an extended waistband there is used supplementary gauge means such as shown in Figs. 10 and 11. In applying the cap and socket members to said overlapping end of an extended waistband supplemental gauging devices are necessary since in this case the cap and socket elements are applied prior to the extended end being secured to the trousers and, therefore, there is not present the string of fasteners to constitute an initial guide means. These supplementary gauging devices are incorporated in the same machine upon which the aforementioned gauging devices '58 to 62 are carried by providing a table 64 supported by a bracket which is pivotally mounted on the machine as shown at 66 and is adapted to be selectively held in either operative or inoperative position as desired. In inoperative position the bracket is swung down about its pivot into the dot and dash position shown in Fig. 4. In operative position, it is swung upwardly about said pivot over an enlarged flat-headed bolt 61 the head of which, when in vertical position, permits a slot 68 in the bracket 65 to pass over said head. By turning the head of the bolt 6? through an angle of after the slot 58 in the bracket has passed over said bolt, the table will be held in operative position. The table has formed in its top two slots 69 and 10 disposed at a right angle to each other, and mounted for adjustment in said slots are, respectively, a guide bar "H and a stop block 12. The means for mounting and adjusting these guide member means may be similar to those described for adjusting the channel guides 48 and 69 in the brackets 34.

Applying the stud and post elements In the use of the gauging devices shown in Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6 for applying stud and post elements to the fly fronts 30 of trousers which already have primary fastening means thereon, such as complemental stringers of slide fastener elements 3| and 32, let it be assumed that the stud fastener member is to be applied to the underlying flap of a regular waistband. In such waistband it is customary for the snap fastener members to be located, one laterally adjacent the stringer. of slide fastener teeth and the other in alignment with such stringer of teeth. Of course, the exact locations at which these snap fastener members are to be applied may be varied within certain limits, hence the adjustability of the guiding means as previously explained. The guiding means having been set, the first operation in applying a stud or post to a regular waistband is as follows:

Prior to finishing and applying the waistband lining, the garment is brought to the machine and the previously attached stringer of slide fastener teeth such as 3| on the inner element of the fly front is fitted up into the channel 48a in channel guide 48 carried by th bracket 34 (Fig. 5). The operator then slides the garment along to the point where the seam 13 of the garment (the point .at which the slide fastener element ends) abuts the adjacent end of such channel guide. The machine is then operated to apply and set the first stud and post 23 in the usual manner by tripping the clutch to cause the setting die 22 to descend.

In the setting of the second stud and post to a regular waistband the stringer of slide fastener teeth 31 is positioned (Fig. '6) within the channel 49a of the channel guide 49 and the previously attached stud and post 28 is brought into registry with the socket 37b in the lower end of guide finger 31. With the garment thus oriented the second stud, and post 29 is applied andset by operating the machine in the conventional manner.

Where it is desired to set the stud and post on the underlying flap of trousers having an ex tended type of waistband construction the procedure for setting and the position of the first stud and post 28 is the same as that explained with respect to setting the first stud and post 28 on the standard or regular type of waistband. To set the second stud and post 29a, the already applied stud 28 is registered in the socket 52 of the fastener index member 50 (Fig, '7) carried by the bracket '35, and with the connection between the stud 28 and the socket 52 as a pivot the garment is swung around into a position where the seam I3 is brought into registry with the straight edge 39 at the lower end of guide finger 38. The second stud 29a may then be set by operating the machine in the usual manner.

Applying the socket and cap members In setting the complementary socket and cap members 53 and 54 on the overlying flap of the fly front of a regular type of waistband, the gauges 6i, $2 and 58 illustrated in Figs. 3, 4, 8 and 9 are employed. In this connection it may be stated that the application of the first and second cap and socket elements is analogous to the application of the first and second stud and post elements, and the relation of the garment to. the gauging devices for setting the first and second cap and socket elements, respectively, are shown in Figs. 8 and 9. In this connection it should be noted that the cap and socket elements are applied to the upper face of an extended portion of the fly closure prior to said extended portion being folded back along a, seam 62a and stitched in place to present the socket element on the underside of the overlying flap of the fly closure of a regular waistband for trousers. ,By so securing said fasteners in place, the capelements will be covered by the folding back operation and willtherefore be concealed from the front of'the fly closure. In Fig. 9 the dotted lines indicate the position of the material after this folding operation, and the arrow indicates the direction of the folding.

In the case where the cap and socket elements are to be attached to an extended waistband the setting machine is provided with the supplemental gauging means H, 12 and 59 illustrated in Figs. 3, 4, 10 and 11. In the application of the cap and socket elements to an extended waistband it is preferable that said fastener elements be attached to the waistband while it is detached from the garment proper and before the band is completely finished; that is, the fastener elements are set in place on the back part of the waistband and thereafter the front part of the waistband is stitched thereto to conceal the fasteners. The completed Waistband may then be attached to the garment front. In-applying the cap and socket elements to the extended waistband the table 64 is brought into operative position as hereinbefore explained and as illustrated in Figs. 3, 4, 10 and 11. To attach the first cap and socket 54a to the extended waistband the edge of the waistband is aligned along the inner edge of the gauge bar H, due allowance having been made for the fold-over seam by which the waistband is sewed to the top of the fly portion proper, the pointed end of the band is brought into abutting relation with the previously set adjustable stop block 12 and the machine is then operated to apply said fastener elements. The relationship of the parts for accomplishing this is shown in Fig. 10.

To set the second cap and socket 53a upon the waistband which on the finished garment will complement in location the position of the cap and socket element 28 in Fig. 7, the band is moved along the guide bar H to bring the applied socket 54a into registry with the tip 60 of the guide finger 59, and while held in this position the machine is operated to apply said second socket member. The relationship of the waistband to the gauging means for applying this cap and socket member is shown in Fig. 11. It will be understood that the points at which the socket members-54a and 530. are set, are spaced apart a distance to correspond with that between the studs 28 and 29a (Fig. 7) on the underlying nonextended end of an extended type of waistband, and that the extended end of the waistband will be sewed onto the fiy portion proper to bring the socket member 53a into alignment with the teeth on the slide fastener stringers 32 (Fig. 12) corresponding to the position of the socket member 53 in said Fig. 12.

From the foregoing detailed description it will be apparent that we have provided gauging devices for assisting an operator in locating the points on the front or fly portions of trousers whereat snap fastener elements are to be applied which supplement the primary slide fastener means of the garment, and that the gauging devices shown and described are adjustable so that the specific locations and distances between the applied snap fasteners may be varied as desired. It will also be appreciated that while we have shown and described certain preferred embodiments of our invention, we do not wish to be limited to the specific means disclosed since these may be varied within the range of mechanical and engineering skill without departing from the spirit of the invention as comprehended by the appended claims.-

What we claim is:

1. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine for locating a point on a garment relative to a slide fastener carried thereby, at which pointa snap fastener element is to be applied, said gauging means comprising a part carried by the machine having an inverted channel therein along which the teeth of the slide fastener can be guided, one end of said part being provided with an abutment for cooperation with a pro jection on the garment.

2. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine for locating a plurality of points on a garment relative to a slide fastener carried thereby; at which points snap fastener elements are to be applied, said gauging means comprising a part carried by the machine having an inverted channel therein along which the teeth of the slide fastener can be guided, one end of said part being provided with an abutment for cooperation with a projection on the garment, and a member carried by the machine adapted for cooperative engagement with a snap fastener element applied to the garment and adjustable for definitely orienting with respect to an applied snap fastener element, the point whereat a second snap fastener element is to be applied.

3. A gauging means according to claim 1 wherein the part having the channel therein is adjustable relatively to the setting station of the machine in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station.

4. A gauging means according to claim 2 wherein said channeled part and the member for engagement with an attached snap fastener element are adjustable relatively to the setting station of the machine in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station.

5. A gauging means according to claim 2 wherein said channeled part and the member for engagement with an attached snap fastener element are carried by a common supporting part and wherein said gauge members are independently adjustable on said supporting part relatively to the setting station in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station. 7

6. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine comprising a supporting bracket attached to the machine frame overlying the work, said bracket carrying a part having a downwardly directed channel therein along which the teeth of a slide fastener can be guided, said part being adjustable in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting of the machine.

- JACOB P. TRECIOKAS. EDWARD H. MACCOUL.

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