US2343476A - Brassiere - Google Patents

Description

4 w. ROSENTHAL March 7, l

BRASSIERE Filed Feb. 25, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR' llkz/a/v saw/m9;

March 7, 1944. w, RO ENTHAL' 2,343,476

BRASS IERE Filed Feb. 25, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR WZA/fl/V ia E/W/MA His ATTORNEY.

Patented Mar. 7, 1944 2,343,476 BnAssIEnE William Rosenthal, New York, N. Y., assignor to Maiden Form Brassiere Company, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application February 25, 1939, Serial No. 258,316

2 Claims.

This invention relates broadly to new brassire constructions.

One of the objects of this invention is the creation of novel brassiere constructions which, while readily adaptable to, and valuable for, general use and support of the bust of normal contour, are particularly of value in the support of the bust of youthful or immature contour.

Another object of this invention is the creation of brassier constructions embodying means which will give to a fiat-chested wearer, or one having a naturally small and meager bust, the

appearance of having an ample and satisfactory configuration of bust.

Another object of this invention is the creation of novel brassire constructions which are adapted to provide suitable, adequate and correct support in natural position for the wearers breasts,

and are particularly of value in providing such support for breasts of youthful or immature contour.

Another object of this invention is the creation of novel brassiere constructions which are adapt ed. to so support the bust of youthful or immature contour that a pleasing and desired measure of accentuation of bust-line is provided thereby.

A still further object of this invention is the creation of certain novel brassire constructions in which means ar provided whereby the length 'of the shoulder straps and the tension provided thereby, may be adjusted to the wearers satisfaction.

A still further object 01' this invention is the creation of certain novel brassire constructions having breast receiving pockets of a standard size and. which also include means whereby the efi'ective length of the garment around the wearers body may be adjusted to the wearer satisfaction.

A still further object of this invention is the creation of certain adjustable devices which may be readily adapted to, and generally used in, various articles of wearing apparel and which are of particular advantage in the brassire constructions hereinafter disclosed.

A still further object of this invention is the creation of brassire constructions which are strong, durable, easy to use and wear and adaptable to ready manufacture in quantity and which provide the practical advantageous features hereinafter more fully disclosed.

A still further object of this invention is the creation of a plurality of variant possible embodiments of brassiere constructions employing the principles of my invention.

These and many other objects are secured by the constructions herein disclosed. Various other objects and advantages of the invention than those hereinabove specifically mentioned, will appear more fully hereinafter.

It is to be understood that the specific forms shown are merely illustrative and hence the detailed description thereof is not to be taken as limiting the invention itself.

The invention resides substantially in the parts as well as in the combination, construction, location and relative arrangement of parts; all as will be more fully pointed out hereinafter.

Referring to the drawings wherein like reference numerals refer to the same or similar parts throughout the several views,'it will be found that:

Fig. 1 represents a front elevational view of a brassire constructed in accordance with the novel principles of my invention;

Fig. 2 represents a rear elevational view there- Fig. 3' represents those separated garment elements shown in the relative arrangement in which they are to be assembled, and-which when assembled, trimmed and provided with shoulder straps, back members, etc., yield the completed garment illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2; v

Fig. 4 represents a sectional view taken along the section line 44, in Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows, with this sectional-view of said garment being here shown mounted upon a section of a bust form;

Fig. 5 represents a perspectiveview of a garment of the character illustrated in Figs; 1 and -2 shown secured upon the body of a -wearer. in

which view a substantial portion-of the front I .ilar to that of Fig. 5, but showinga second modified form ofgarment constructed in accordanc with the principles of my invention.

In United States Letters Patent No. 2,141,408 of December 27, 1938, I disclosed certain brassiere and breast pad constructons for lending to women having naturally small and meager breasts or removed breasts and external appearance of having a normal and fully developed bust configuration.

fabric of the respective frames.

In said patent I pointed out how such constructions enabled women having a deficiency of bust configuration to overcome the embarrassment generally incident thereto and to take advantage of and utilize current and fashionable garment styles intended to be worn by the woman of fully developed bust-line. I further pointed out that, as was well known, the trend in present day style is towards accentuation of the natural breasts and body lines, so as to emphasize the inherent beauty of the natural curves of the human form.

By the instant invention I present another solution will calculated to meet the problem of insufficiency of bust configuration for those women naturally having a bust of youthful or immature contour by providing constructions presenting the advantage of effectively properly molding, shaping and correctly and suitably adjustably fitting the the body and supporting the bustwhile giving thereto a desired measure of accentuation.

It is the purpose of this invention therefore to create brassiere constructions which, while adapted to general utilization, are peculiarly of value for the correct and suitable support as well as the proper accentuation of the youthful or immature bust.

Turning now to the drawings, it will be observed that in the garment illustrated and disclosed by Figs. 1 to 5, inclusive, '1' have shown at I and 2, two breast cups. These cups I and 2 are mounted, respectively, in frames 3 and 4, together with which frames they form breast receiving pockets 5 and 6, respectively. Pockets 5 and B are joined together in the front inidsection of the garment by an elastic eiementi. Attached to the free end of each of frames 3 and 4, respectively, are the body bands 8 and 9, respectively. Secured to the free end of body band 8, is an elastic strip Ill upon which is carried a suitable hook II. Secured to the free end of body band 9, is an elastic strip I2 having secured at its free end an elongated strip I3, upon the outer face of which are disposed and secured a multiplicity of longitudinally spaced apart eyes I4. These eyes, I4, preferably, are arranged upon strip I3 in such fashion that their attachment to the strip I3 is covered over by the folded over and stitched edges I3a and I3!) of the strip I3. With this arrangement the fabric of strip I3 lies between the skin of the body of the wearer and all parts of the eyes I4, with the result, thatneither the hook I I when engaged with one of the eyes I4, nor any of such eyes, will, in any way, some in Contact with the skin of the wearer of the garment.

The specific construction of the cups I and 2,

the frames 3 and 4, and the body bands 8 and 9, all herebefore mentioned, wil1 be more fully discussed hereinafter.

Secured on the inner face of each of the frames 3 and 4, and to the rim of each of the cups I and 2, and extending upwardly from said rims, respectively, towards and slightly past the uppermost point on the upper edges of each of pockets 5 and 6, respectively, are the tape-like strips I5 and I6, respectively, which preferably are stitched to the Secured to the free end of each of the tape-like strips I5 and I6, are the buckles or clasps I1 and I8, respectivey.

Attached to the top of body band 8, adjacent the point where it is joined to strip I0, is a shoulder strap I9, preferably having an elastic portion joined to a fabric portion 2|. Secured to the top of body band 9, adjacent the point where it is joined to the strip I2, is a similar shoulder strap 22, which likewise preferably has an elastic portion 23 joined to a fabric portion 24.

The free ends of each of shoulder straps I9 and 22 are pulled through the buckles or clasps I! and I8, respectively, to adjustably provide an effective shoulder strap length suitable to the wearer and consonant with her needs and requirements. The presence of the elastic portions 20 and 23 make possible a high measure of fineness in adjustment of effective shoulder strap length and the tension afforded by the shoulder strap; which tension, acting upon the respective free ends of the tape-like strips I5 and I6, is transmitted by said strips to the respective frames and cups.

Secured to the garment on the inner surface thereof adjacent the outer border or edges of the frames 3 and 4, adjacent the outer border or edges of the body bands 8 and 9, and over and along the seams joining body band 8 to frame 3 and body band 9 to frame 4, are the strips of finishing or binding tape 25, with which the said edges and seams of parts are finished and reenforced.

Referring next specifically to the construction of the; aforementioned cups, it will be observed that both of the cups I and 2 are substantially alike in construction and that each of said cups is composed of an upper fabric member 26 and a lower fabric member 21, which fabric members are secured together in any desirable fashion, such, for example, as by stitched open work or fagoting 28, and form said cups which are of the desired suitable proportions and contour to attain the purposes of the invention.

Thus, it will be observed that each of the upper members 26, when laid out flat as illustrated in Fig. '3, preferably has a convexly curved upper edge 29 and a convexly curved lower edge 30, with said edges preferably each being of suitable different curvature, but intersecting each other at the points 3| and 32.

These members 26 preferably are so out from the fabric from which they are taken, that, when laid out fiat, in the fashion just mentioned, the warp threads of the fabric of member 26 of cup I extend upwardly and obliquely away from, what, in assembled condition of the garment would be the imaginary vertical center line of its mids'ection, at a suitable angle to one side of said vertical center line, while the warp threads of the fabric of the other member 26, to wit: that of cup 2, extend upwardly and obliquely away from said imaginary vertical center line, but at an angle of substantially the same size to the other side thereof.

Accordingly, it follows that the warp threads of the member 26 of cup I generally extend in a direction upwardly divergent from the direction in which the warp threads of member 26 of cup 2 extend, and at an angle to each other of substantially twice that angle which lies between the warp threads of one of said members and the imaginary vertical center line aforementioned. Furthermore, since the filler threads of each of the members 26 are, of course, substantially at right angle to the corresponding warp threads thereof, the filler threads of member 26 of cup I will extend in a direction downwardly divergent from the direction in which the filler threads of member 26 of cup 2 extend.

Thus, by way of example, a desirable way of cutting the members 26 is to so lay a pattern thereof upon the fabric from which such members are to be cut, that the lowermost point of the lower convex edge 34 of the member 21.

the curved edge 36 of the pattern and the point of intersection 32, define a line substantially parallel to and lying along the "straight of a warp thread of such fabric, and thereupon to out said member to pattern.

From Fig. 3, it will be observed that the point 3i of member 26 of cup I and the point 32 of member 26 of cup 2 are each respectively the most remote points of such members from what, in assembled condition of the garment would be the imaginary vertical center line of its midsectlon; and, accordingly, the warp and filler thread arrangement of member 26 of cup I and the warp and filler thread arrangement of member26 of cup 2, may be considered obverse and reverse respectively, or vice versa.

I have found that a desirable arrangement of warp and filler threads in the respective members 26 results when the warp threads of one of said members extend in a direction at an angle between 45 and 60 to one side, of what in assembled condition of the garment would be the imaginary vertical center line of its midsection, While the warp threads of the other of said members extend in a direction at a substantially equal angle to the other side of such tially 60 but to the other side of said imaginary vertical center line.

However, it is to be understood that since it is conceivable that variation may be made in the angular arrangement of the threads with desirable result, I do not desire to be limited to the specific angles which I have mentioned and shown solely by way of illustration, but rather to the spirit and scope of my invention as hereinafter defined by the appended claims.

Next, it will be observed that each of the lower members 21 when laid out fiat, as illustrated in Fig. 8, preferably has a substantially straight horizontal upper edge 33, and a convexly curved lower edge 34, with said edges intersecting at the points and 36.

These members 21 preferably are each so cut from the fabric from which they are taken, that, when said members are laid out flat in the fashion just mentioned, the warp threads of the fabric of each thereof extend in a direction substantially parallel to the respective straight upper edges 33, while the filler threads thereof are, of course, at an angle of substantially 90 to such warp threads, to wit: substantially parallel to what in assembled condition of the garment would be the imaginary vertical center line of its midsection.

Next, it will be observed that the convexly curved lower edge 30 of each member 26, preferably is of an effective length substantially equal to that of the straight upper edge 33 of each corresponding member 21. Accordingly, suitable joinder of a member 26 along its lower edge 30 to a member 21 along its upper edge 33,will be efiective to produce a cup-like member having a fullness and contour of suitable character for the. purpose intended and having a substantially continuous suitably curved rim formed by the upper convex edge 29 of the member 26 and It,

. Turning next .to the frames 3 and t, it will of course, will be understood that when the upper member 26 is joined to the lower member 21 by stitched open work, that the continuity of the curved rim will be interrupted merel by the stitched open work. J I

In the convexly curved lower edge 34-, I preferably provide a notch 31, which I have found to be of advantage, during garment assembly, for the facilitating of proper peripheral positioning of the rim of the cup relative to the pe-. riphery of the opening in theframe; so .that such cup ultimately will be mounted in proper rotated position relative to the frame and occupy that position which will bemost effective to produce the full advantagesof-my invention.

At this point, it will be further understood that, as desired, such variation may be made in the shape and external outline of the respective members 26 and 27, as may be found desirable to produce completed cups having outlines meeting particular needs.

be observed that each'of these frames are ofsubstantially identical construction and external outline, but are, however, secured in the completed brassire in opposed arrangement :with

respect to the imaginary center line dividing the midsection of the front of the brassire. 1 Thus, it will be observed that each of such frames is composed by the joinder together of two dissimilar frame portions 38 and 39. In the completed brassiere, the pair of frames 3 and 4 are so associated, that the frame portions 39 of each frame are most closely adjacent to, but oppositely directed from, each other, while the frame portions 38 ar furthest apart, but so arranged that upon joinder of each to its corre-- sponding frame portion 39, the desired frames 3 and 4 result. v

Turning to the frame portions 38, it'v 'll be observed that each such portion is bounded by seven sides; namely, each has that outline'which results from the joinder together, end to end, of the following edges in the order which follows, to wit: (1) a lower substantiallystraight bottom edge 40, (2) an upwardly extending concave curved first edge 4| of the one side, (3) an upwardly extending concave curved second edge 42 of the same side, (4) an uppersubstantially straight top edge 43, (5) a substantially straight downwardly extending first edge 44 of the other side, (6) a downwardly extending concave curved second edge 45 of the said other side, and, (7) a downwardly extending concave curved third edge 46 of the said other side; with the last mentioned edge 46 being joined at its end to the beginning of the edge 40, hereinbefore first men tioned. It will be observed that in the flat arrangement of these frame portions 38 shown in Fig. 3, the respective concavities of the curved edges 4i and 42 generally face in directions at a relatively acute angle toeach other; and, that the respective concavities of the curved edges 45 and 46 likewise generally face in directions at a relatively acute angle to each other.

These portions 38 preferably are each so'cut from the fabric from which they are taken, that when said portions are laid out flat in the fashion illustrated therefor in Fig. 3, the warp threads of the fabric of each thereof extend in'a direction substantially parallel to the" lower substantially straight bottom edge 40 of each thereof, whilethe filler threads of each thereof, are, of course, at'an angle of substantially to such warp threads.

Turning to the frame'portions 39, it will be observed that each such portion, likewise is bounded by seven sides, namely, each has that outline which results from the joinder together, end to end, of the following edges-in the order which follows, to wit: (1) a lower substantially straight bottom edge 41, 2) an upwardly extending convex curved first edge 48 of the one side, (3) an upwardly extending concave curved second edge 49 of the same side, (4) an upper substantially straight top edge 59, (5) a substantially straight downwardly extending first edge 5| of the other side, (6) a downwardly extending con cave curved second edge 52 ofthe said other side; and, (7) a downwardly extending concave curved third edge 53 of the said other side; with the last mentioned edge 53 being joined at its end to the beginning of the edge 41, hereinbefore first mentioned.

It will be observed that in the flat arrangement of these frame portions 39, shown in Fig. 3, the concavity of the curved edge 49 and the convexity of the curved edge 48, generally face in directions at a relatively acute angle to each other, while the respective concavities of the curved edges 52 and 53 likewise generally face in directions at a relatively acute angle to each other.

These portions 39 preferably are each so cut from the fabric from which they are taken, that when said portions are laid out fiat in the fashion illustrated therefor in Fig. 3, the warp threads of the fabric of each thereof extend in a direction substantially parallel to the lower substantially straight bottom edge 41 of each thereof, while the filler threads of each thereof, are, of course, at an angle of substantially 90 to such warp threads.

Next, it should be understood that the straight edge 44 of a frame portion 38, preferably is of an effective length substantially equal to that of the straight edge 5| of a frame portion 39; said edges being joined together upon assembly of such frame portions 38 and 39 to form a completed frame. Likewise, it should be understood that the concave curved edge 46 of a frame portion 38, preferably is of an effective length substantially equal to that of the concave curved edge 53 of a frame portion 39; said edges being joined together upon assembly of such f rame portions 38 and 39 to form a completed frame.

It will next be understood that when a frame is formed by the joinder together of a frame portion 38 to a frame portion 39 with the respective edges 44 and 5| being joined together and the respective edges 45 and 53 being joined together, that the concave edges 45 and 52 provide an opening having a continuously curved edge, the contour of which edge is substantially complementary to the contour of the rim of the cup to be mounted therein.

I preferably providein each of the curved edges 45 and 52, a number'of spaced apart notches, such as the notches 54; and, accordingly, the raw curved edge of the opening in the frame when formed has such notches spaced apart around the periphery thereof.

The material lying between successive notches may be readily folded back against the body of the fabric of the frame; and, accordingly, when the'fabric of the cup, adjacent the rim thereof, is joined over the whole of the periphery of such rim to the fabric of the 'frame,adjacent the opening therein, over the whole of the periphery of such opening, by sewing or the like, a smooth and continuous joinder and mount of cup in frame results.

At this stage, I desire to bring out that the construction and detail of each pair of frame portions 38 and 39 is such that if such portions were united by the joinder merely of an edge 44 to an edge 51, and thereafter, allowed to lie fiat, the curved edge 45 would lie spaced apart from the curved edge 53, with the concavities of said curved edges generally facing in directions at a relatively acute angle to each other; and similarly if such portions were united by the joinder merely of a curved edge 45 to a curved edge 53, and thereafter, allowed to lie fiat, the edge 44 would lie spaced apart from and generally at an acute angle to the edge 5|.

As a result of such construction and outline of each pair of frame portions, the joinder together of the edge 44 to the edge 5| as well as the edge 46 to the edge 53, results in the frame which is formed thereby having a definite outward flare so that the continuous curved opening therein stands out from the plane of the outer boundary of the completed frame. Accordingly, such frame provides a shallow flared border, for the cup of relatively greater fullness and depth which is set into the opening in said frame.

Referring for the moment to Fig. 4, it will be observed that the outer frame 4 there shown, snugly fits to and closely presses against the wearers breast peripherally adjacent the base thereof, and, accordingly, gently urges and directs the breast tissues forwardly and into the cup 2 where the same are properly and correctly molded and supported in proper position thereby giving the wearer an externally desired measure of accentuation of bust configuration.

It accordingly will be understood that a wearer having a bust which is of youthful or immature contour, will be provided with suitable, adequate and correct support and molding of breast configuration, as well as the desired measure of accentuation of bust-line by the cooperative effect of each frame and cup upon each breast.

It will be further realized that my construction of breast pocket accordingly produces the desired result by the provision of gentle pressure at the base of the breast, such as will be effective to urge and direct out the breast tissues to their maximum advantage.

Turning next to the elastic element '1, it will be observed that the same may be made in any suitable fashion. If desired, this element can be made of either single or double ply.

Referring to Fig, 3, it will be observed that I have shown at 55 a piece of elastic which is of a vertical height substantially twice that of the vertical height of the element 1 and which has an upper portion 56 and a lower portion 51, which portions when folded back against the central portion 58 thereof and secured together, provide the desired elastic element 1, having sides 59 which each are of a concave curvature complementary to the convex curvature of the curved edges 48. In assembly of the garment, each frame convex edge 48 is joined to a corresponding concave edge 59 of the elastic element 1.

Turning next to the body bands 8 and 9, it will be observed that each such band is bounded by four sides; namely, each has that outline which results from the joinder together, end to end, of the following edges in the order which follows, to Wit: (1) an upwardly extending substantially straight side edge 69, (2) an upper convex top edge 6|, (3) a substantially straight downwardly extending second side edge 62, and (4) a lower concave curved bottom edge 63; with the last mentioned edge 63 being joined at its end tothe beginning of the edge 60, hereinbefore first mentioned.

The shape and outline of each of these body bands is preferably such thatthere is a gradual taper in vertical height from the side edge 60 in a direction towards the side edge 62.

These body bands 8 and 9 preferably are each so cut from the fabric from which they are taken, that when said bands are laid out fiat in the fashion illustrated therefor in Fig. 3, the Warp threads of the fabric of each thereof extend in a direction substantially parallel to such imaginary llne as would join the two lowermost corners of the band, while the filler threads of each thereof, are, of course, at an angle of substantial- 1y 90 to such warp threads, and substantially parallel to the edge 60.

The length of each edge 60 is substantially equal to the length of the corresponding edge 4| to which it is joined upon assembly of the garment so that when appropriate smooth joinder is effected between suchedges, the concave edge 4| is straightened out and such joinder thereupon contributes to the herebefore mentioned flared out effect of the frame.

It, of course, will be understood that the edge 60, may be suitably curved instead of straight, and, accordingly, the degree of flaring of the frame effected by the joinder of an edge 60 to an edge 4| may, if desired, be efiectively regulated thereby.

The convexity of each edge 6| and the concavity of each edge 63 is such that when the garment is applied to the body of the wearer, the curvature of theupper and lower edges of each body band will be such that the band will closely conform to the curvature of the body of the wearer.

In the convexly curved upper edge 6| I preferably provide a notch 6| a adjacent the side edge 62, which I have found to be of advantage, during garment assembly, for the facilitating of attachment in proper position of the end of the shoulder strap, either l9 or 22, as the case may be, which is to be secured to the upper edge of said body band adjacent the free end thereof.

At this point, I desire to bring out that I have heretofore disclosed what I believe to be the preferable manner in which each part of my garment should be cut with respect to the warp and the filler threads of the fabric from which it is taken, since such manner of cut, I have found, will give the advantage of placing the minimum of fabric give or stretchability in the direction where it is most preferable to have the same.

I here desire to emphasize the fact that in the garment construction which I have disclosed, it is highly advantageous that the garment be held in close contiguity over its entire inside surface, to and extended upon the wearers body. This causes the garment to closely embrace the bust and figure bringing the frames into close and firm contact with the wearers body adjacent the base of each breast and urging and directing the breasts into the cups, as hereinbefore described, thereby providing the desired eifect.

It should therefore be clear that the manner of cut of the respective garment parts relative to the warp threads of the fabric from which they are taken, is a factor advantage of which should be availed of in the interest of maintaining close body, so that such a body may be properly embracedto yield a maximum of ultimate benefit.

While-I have mentioned particular manners forthe cutting of particular garment parts, it is possible that other manners of cutting such parts might be conceived of and employed by those skilled in the trade, in place of those I have specifically mentioned, with possible equal beneficial result and I do not therefore desire to be limitedv to the exact manner therefor which I have described by way of illustration, but rather to the spirit and scope thereof as hereinafter defined in the appended claims.

With respect to the frames, I desire to further bring out that by preferably making each of the curved edges 46 and 53, respectively, concave and by bringing such concave edges together, a slight flare is given to the center of the lower edge of each breast pocket sufiicient to compensate for such straightening out eifect as'is presented by the application of the finishing tape 25 on the inside of the garment along the bottom edge of each of the pockets, thereby leaving the bottom edge of the garment with suitable contour for proper conformation to the curvature of the wearers body.

Having thus described the construction of the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, I desire to point out that a wearer requiring a certain size of breast pocket and breast pocket cups, can by purchasing a brassiere oftherpresent invention, having the required pockets and cups, suitably adjust the same to her particular girth by engagingthe hook II in a selected one of the eyes Monthe eye strip l3.

Thus, as will be realized the natural contour of the breasts does not necessarily directly vary in strict accord with the size of the wearers girth. Accordingly, brassieres constructed in accordance with the principles of this invention would preferably be purchased to meet the breast size and contour requirements, with the size of the girth requirements being adjustable, within reasonable limits, by the wearer of the garment to meet her specific needs.

In the making of ready-to-wear brassii'es, it, of course, is understood that garments are usually made to meet average cases and therefore garments constructed in accordance with this invention may be made in successive standard sizes of breast pocket and cup, with a reasonablerange of adjustability as to girth size being provided.

Due to the fact that the strips l0 and I2 are preferably of elastic material, the wearer .is thereby afforded a further measure of adjustability of fine degree. Thus, were the setting of the hook I! in one eye M :to produce a girth size which in the absence of the elastic strips l0 and I2 would normally prove too large and were the setting of. the hook [I inthe next adjacent eye M, to produce a girth size which, in the absence of the elastic strips l0 and I2 would normally prove too small, the presence of the elastic strips I0 and I2 make. it possible for the wearer to use the latter settingsince such elastic strips will, when. upon thewearers body, readily provide a suitable give and fine degree, of adjustment, from the normally smaller setting and the effect will,

be just as though a suitably positioned intermediate eye were present.

As hereinbefore pointed out, the effective length of the respective shoulder straps l9 and 22 may be adjusted to'provide suitable tension-upon the conti'guity between the garment andthe wearers respective free-ends of the tape-like strips I5 and I6, which is transmitted by said stripsto the respective frames and cups providing thereby suitable vertical positioning of the garment upon the body, as well as providing suitable breast uplift.

Since due to the natural configuration of the human form the effective garment girth length required will necessarily vary as variation is vantageous position, to wit: in close and firm contact with the wearer's breasts adjacent the base thereof, with the result that the breast;- tissues will be gently molded and directed forwardly into the respective cups.

From the foregoing, it accordingly becomes clear that the fine degree of adjustability inefifective shoulder strap length and tension and the cooperating fine degree of adjustability in effective garment girth length, enables the wearer toaccurately and comfortably position the frames and cups so that they are at the most desirable position for accomplishing the objects of my invention.

Having thus described the construction of the garment illustrated in Figs. land 2 and the illustrations therefor shown in Figs". 3 and 4-, an inspection of Fig. 5 will disclose the manner in which said garment conforms to the body when worn thereupon.

From the foregoing, it will be realized that while the combination of the fine degree of adjustability in" eil'ective shoulder strap length and tension afforded thereby together with the fine degree of adjustability in effective garment girth length are of particular value and ad'- vantage in garments constructed,- as herein disclosed, that such adjustability features, being of general advantage} mayfind ready adoptionand use in breast supporting garments gen erally.

Accordingly, therefore, it is to be understood that I do not desire to be in any wise limited to the exact manner and use of such features which I have herein. described by way of illustration, but rather to the: spirit and scope claims.

Referring next to Figs. 6 and 7,. it will be observed that garments constructed inaccordance with the principles of my invention may be provided with a depending skirt or diaphragm band along the lower' edge thereof.

Thus, referring specifically to Fig. 6, it will be observed that there illustrated a brassire which is provided with a relatively shortdla-- phragm band 64 depending from the lower edge of the breast receiving pockets; and referring specifically to Fig. '7, it will" be observed that there. is there illustrated a brassiere which is provided with arelatively long diaphragm the wearer's body to: the rear preferably each should be of a vertical edge height sufiicient to extend along and be secured to the vertical edge height of the side of the breast receiving pocket as well as the vertical edge height of the diaphragm band, to which such body band is to be secured. Body bands of this character are illustrated by the bands, and 61, in Figs. 8 and 7, respectively.

Interposed between each diaphragm band and the body bands secured thereto, I preferably provide adjacent the bottom thereof, triangular gussets', such as either gussets, 68 (Fig. 6) or 69' (Fig. 7-) of elastic or other suitable stretchable material. These gussets are of advantage giving to the wearer a desirable measure of adjustment in garment girth length adjacent the diaphragm band thereof so that; the garment at the diaphragm band may suitably meet the variant girth size requirements of the wearer's body at the vertical position of such band thereon.

Each diaphragm band, 64 or 65, is preferably provided with an upper edge, the outline of which (except for a V-like notch therein which I shall shortly hereinafter more fully describe) is substantially complementary to the lower edge defined by the pockets 5 and 6 so that upon securement thereof to the lower edge of said pockets, such band forms a skirt dependent therefrom. The upper part of the diaphragm band which falls vertically below the elastic element 1- is provided with downwardly sloping sides which converge and meet substantially at the midsection of the garment providing a vlike notch 70 in the upper edge of such diaphragm band just below the elastic element 1.

The inclusion in the garment of a V-like notch 10 of this character permits the elastic element 1' to readily stretch upon increase of the wearer's girth due to expansion of the chest during breathing, exercise or the like, by the sides of said V-like notch spreading apart, leveling' out and tending to' approach the lower edge of the elastic element 7,. across the space lying between the sides of said notch and the lower edge of such elastic element 1, and thus the increase in' girth is accommodated without any strain being placed upon such stitching as joins the pockets to the diaphragm.

These dlaphrag'm b'ands 64 and 65 each have a substantially straight lower edge and are each preferably so out from the fabric from which they are taken that if such portions were considered as laid out fiat, in a fashion similar to that in which the portions shown in Fig. 3 are illustrated, the warp threads of the fabric of each thereof extend in a direction substantially parallel to the lower substantially straight bottom edge of each thereof, while the. filler threads of each thereof, are, of course, at an angle of substantially to such warp threads.

While I believe that this manner of' cut of the diaphragm bands from the fabric from which they are taken is preferable, I, for reasons like those herebefore indicated as to the preferable ingly, it will be understood that same has been specifically set forth solely by way of illustration. Itwill be obvious from all of the foregoing that the invention I have disclosed is effective to attain the various objects and purposes hereinbefore Set forth.

Further, it will also be obvious that the said invention incorporates many features which are possible of general adaptation in garment constructions, other than those in particular connection with which I have specifically described the same. Moreover, it is conceivable that materials and shapes and cuts thereof other than those that I have specifically mentioned as being preferable, might be employed with beneficial result and effect.

Furthermore, I am, of course, aware that many changes in the details of construction and relative arrangement of parts, will readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art upon their becoming acquainted with my present disclosure. Accordingly by way of example, variation might be made in the manner of shaping of pockets, or in the particular outline thereof, and even such pockets might be drawn up to a sharper, or a less sharp, top, before joinder is effected between the pocket and the shoulder straps connected to the same, or variation might be effected in the manner in which the elastic element in the midsection of the front of the garment, or the body bands are secured to the pockets.

Accordingly, therefore, I do not desire to be limited to the exact details herein set forth by way of illustration, but rather to the scope and spirit of my invention as I define it in the appended claims.

The following claims are intended to cover all generic and specific features of the invention described.

What I seek to secure by and claim for United States Letters Patent is:

1. In a brassiere, a pair of breast receiving pockets, an elastic element joining said pockets, a diaphragm band secured to said pockets along the lower edge thereof, said diaphragm band having a notch in its upper edge below the aforementioned elastic element and means for holding said pockets and diaphragm band upon the body of the wearer.

2. In a breast receiving garment, a pair of breast receiving pockets, an elastic element joining said pockets, a diaphragm band secured to said pockets along the lower edge of the pockets, said diaphragm band having a V-like notch in its upper edge, the sides of which notch slope downwardly and converge and meet substantially at the mid-section of the garment below the aforementioned elastic element, and means for hold- 25 ing said garment upon the body of the wearer.

WILLIAM R0 SENTHAL.

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