US2312124A - Stitchdown shoe - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 23, 1943. ROSENZWEIG 2,312,124

STITCHDOWN SHOE I Filed Aug. 5, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Feb. 23, 1943. I ROSENZWElG 2,312,124

STITCHDOWN SHOE Filed Aug. 5, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented F eb. 23, 1943 UNITED STAT E S FT ii QFFICE STITCHDOWN SHOE Application August 5, 1942, Serial No. 453,741

16 Claims.

This invention is an improvement in stitchdown shoes, and the principal object thereof is to provide a novel lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe in which the portion of the heel seat piece, underlying the shank, is interlocked with the middle sole by passing same through a transverse slot in the middle sole adjacent the heel, thereby permitting use of a whole middle sole or three-quarter middle sole, the loose portion of the heel seat piece not only acting as a support for the arch, but at the same time keeping the middle sole in proper position for thread lasting, preventing the middle sole from shifting to one or the other during said thread lasting.

Heretofore, in the ordinary construction of lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoes, that portion of a heel seat piece which extends beyond the heel over the shank is loose, and if not fastened by cement or other means causes a bulge or loose portion within the shoe. Also, heretofore, during the process of thread lasting, the middle sole in the ordinary constructed stitchdown shoe is often pulled or shifted to one side or the other, causing a non-uniform width at the shank.

My invention obviates the above undesirable features, and obviates the use of cement or other extraneous means for securing the loose portion of the heel seat piece, my shoe having a transverse slot in the middle sole adjacent the lastedin portion of the heel seat through which the loose portion of the heel seat piece, overlying the shank, extends thus interlocking therewith, portions of the middle sole at opposite sides of the slot being thinned by skiving or otherwise to allow for the thickness of the loose portion of the heel seat piece which overlies and underlies the middle sole at opposite sides of the slot. By my method of interlocking the heel seat piece with the middle sole, however, the loose portion of the heel seat not only acts as an arch support, but acts as an anchor in maintaining the middle sole in proper place during the process of thread lasting.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe in which a three-quarter middle sole may be utilized, instead of a full middle sole, due to interlocking between the middle sole and the loose portion of the heel seat piece. Without my interlocking feature. a full middle sole would necessarily have to be used, as otherwise the use of a three-quarter middle sole in such type of shoe would resultin an inferior contruction. My

the amount of leather used in the middle sole of such shoes, and moreover provides a lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe having a more substantial construction than heretofore made.

I will explain the invention with reference to the accompanying drawings which illustrate one practical embodiment thereof to enable others familiar with the art to adopt and use the same; and will summarize in the claims, the novel features of construction, and novel combinations of parts, for which protection is desired.

In said drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing my novel lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe.

Fig. 2 is a plan view showing the upper applied to a last having the heel seat piece applied thereto, and showing the lasted-in portion of the upper in way of the heel seat, the portion of the heel seat piece underlying the shank being left unsecured to the last.

Fig. 3 is a plan view similar to Fig. 2, but showing a three-quarter middle sole having a slot adjacent the lasted-in portion of the heel seat through which the unsecured portion of the heel seat piece extends, thereby interlocking therewith.

Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section on the line -A, Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a section similar to Fig. 4, but showing an outsole applied to the middle sole.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a full middle sole which may be utilized in my shoe, showing the slot therein which receives the interlocking portion of the heel seat piece, and showing the thinned or skived portions on the underside of the middle sole, at opposite sides of the slot, for accommodating the thickness of the interlocking portion of the heel seat piece.

Fig. '7 is a longitudinal section on the line l'|, Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the full middle sole (Fig. 6) applied to the lasted upper.

Fig. 9 is a longitudinal section on the line 9-9, Fig. 8.

As shown in Fig. 1, the shoe includes an upper I having a middle sole 2 of three-quarter length, and an outsole 3, the marginal portions of the upper being outturned as at la except in way of the heel seat and secured by stitching S passing through the outturned portion la, the middle sole 2 and the outsole 3, the stitching S extending from the shank portion at one side of the shoe around the toe and terminating at the-shank portion at In making my shoe the upper l is applied to a last L as shown in Fig. 2, and a heel seat piece of relatively stiff fibre board or other suitable ma-' terial is applied over the heel seat. The peripheral portion lb of upper I in way of the heel seat is inturned and lasted-in and secured to the underlying heel seat portion of the heel seat piece 5 by nails 6 or the like passing through the inturned portion lb of the upper and through the heel seat piece 5, the nails being clinched in the usual manner, thereby securing the inturned portion of the upper to the heel seat piece 5. The portion 5a of the heel seat piece 5 which underlies the shank is left loose however in this operation; and preferably the peripheral portion Ia of the upper I extending from the shank around the toe of the shoe and terminating at the opposite side of the shank is left' loose as-shown in Fig. 2, in the customary manner of making stitchdown shoes, the same being held temporarily by tacks I or the like, which tacks however are removed before positioning the middle sole on the last.

The middle sole 2, which in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive is of three-quarter length, is then applied to the last L,'the same being skived or thinned as at 2a at its inner end in way of the heel seat. In the middle sole 2 adjacent the inner end of the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 is a transverse slot 21) of width conforming with that of the portion 5a of heel seat piece '5, and preferably the middle sole 2, at opposite sides of slot 2b, is thinned as at 20 on its underside, by skiving or the like. as shown more particularly in Figs. 6 and 7 to allowforthe thickness of the interlocking portion 5a of heel seat piece 5. 1

In assembling the shoe the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 is inserted through slot 2b in middle sole' 2, as shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5, so as to interlock therewith, and whereby the outer end of loose portion 5a of heel piece 5 underlies the middle sole forwardly of the slot 2b; and the same may be temporarily secured to the last L for the process of thread lasting by tacks 8 or the like, the thread lasting resulting in the row of stitches T which pass throughthe middle sole 2 and outturned portion la'of upper I at the corner formed by the sides of the upper I and the outturned portion la. The thinned or skived portions 20 of middle sole 2 adjacent slot 2b allow for the thick nessof the'loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 adjacent the slot, thereby preventing unnecessary bulgingof the parts 2 and 5 resulting from the interlocking of said parts. As soon as the middle sole 2 has been thus applied the outer sole 3 is then secured to the middle sole 2 and outturned portion Ia of the upper I in any desired mannerv such as by the stitching S (Figs. 1 and 5) passing through the outturned portion Ia of the upper, the middle sole 2, and the outsole 3. The heel 4 is then applied to the heel seat by nails or otherwise in the usual manner; and the peripheries of the middle sole 2, outersole 3 and outturned portion Ia of the upper I then trimmedto uniform width. 7

By the above construction the middle sole 2 is thus interlocked with the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece'5 so as to prevent the middle sole from shifting laterally on last L during the process of thread lasting of the stitchdown shoe, by which the row of stitching T is passed at the corner 2,312,124 outturned portion Ia of the upper, the threads T passing through the outturned portion of the upper and through the middle sole 2 to secure the middle sole to the upper I. By the above construction the outer portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 also acts as an arch support for the shoe as well as an anchor which maintains the middle sole 2 in place during thread lasting. The interlocking of the parts 2 and 5 moreover obviate the use of cement or other extraneous means for securing the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 to the middle sole 2, and thus effects a saving not only of cement or other fastening means, but also eliminates a cementing step in the manufacture of the shoe;' and the interlocking feature prevents any bulging at the shank caused by loose parts within the sole of the shoe.

The above construction moreover permits the use of a three-quarter middle sole 2, effecting a material saving in the amount of leather used in the sole of the shoe. Unless my interlocking feature were utilized, it would be necessary to use. a

full middle sole; otherwise the use, of a three-.

quarter middle sole in a lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe would result in a very inferior construction. The use of my interlocking feature,

however, while effecting a material saving of the amount of leather used in the middle sole, in fact produces a shoe having a more solid construction than heretofore.

My invention, however, also permits the use ofa full middle sole as shown in Figs. 6 to 9 inclusive, the full middle sole 2.1: also having the slot 2b provided with the thinned or skived portions.

20 adjacent and at opposite sides of the slotreceiving the outer loose' portion 5a of heelseat piece 5, in the same manner shown in Fig. 3. In this modification the middle sole 23: extends reare,

wardly over the heel seat of the shoe, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The out sole 3 and heel] may then be applied in the usual manner.

I do not limit my invention to the exact forms shown in the drawings, for obviously changes may 7 be made therein within the scope of the claims.

formed between the sides of the upper I and the I claim:

1. In a shoe having an upper provided witha lasted-in heel seat; a heel seat piece secured to the lasted-in portion of the upper and having-a shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with a transverse solt adjacent the heel seat through which the shank of the heel seat piece extends, thereby interlocking therewith; means securing the middle sole to the upper; and an outsole secured to the middle sole.

2. In a shoe as set forth in claim 1, the middle sole being thinned at opposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thickness of the:

shank. r

3. In a shoe as set forth in claim 1, said middle sole being of three-quarter length. r

4. In a shoe as setforth in claim 1, said middle sole being of full length.

5. In a shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heel seat, a heel seat piece secured to the lasted-in portion of the upper and havinga shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with a transverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shank of the heel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith the front portion of the shank underlying the lower face of the middle sole; means securing the middle sole to the upper; and an outsole secured to the middle sole.

6. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, the middle sole being thinned at opposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thickness of the shank.

7. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, said middle sole being of three-quarter length.

8. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, said middle sole being of full length.

9. In a stitchdown shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heel seat, the remaining portion of the upper being outturned adjacent the sole; a heel seat piece secured to the lastedin portion of the upper and having a shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with a transverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shank of the heel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith; the middle sole being secured to the outturned portion of the upper; and an outsole secured to the outturned portion of the upper and the middle sole.

10. In a shoe as set forth in claim 9, the middle sole being thinned at opposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thickness of the shank.

11. In a. shoe as set forth in claim 9, said middle sole being of three-quarter length.

12. In a shoe as set forth in claim 9, said middle sole being of full length.

13. In a stitchdown shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heel seat, the remaining portion of the upper being outturned adjacent the sole; a heel seat piece secured to the lastedin portion of the upper and having a shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with a transverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shank portion of the heel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith; the front portion of the shank underlying the lower face of the middle sole; the middle sole being secured by stitching to the outturned portion of the upper; and an outsole secured by stitching passing through the outturned portion of the upper, through the middle sole and through the outsole.

14. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, the middle sole being thinned at opposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thickness of the shank.

15. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, said middle sole being of three-quarter length.

16. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, said middle sole being of full length.

HENRY ROSENZWEIG.

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