US2304799A - Combined ruffling and pinking device for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

Dec.'15, 1942. .ncosr-zmmo 2,304,799

COMBINED RUFFLING AND PINKING DEVICE FOR SEWING'IMACHINES Filed Aug. 3, 1940 INVENTOR. (/OSEPH CasE/v nvo BY g ATTORNEX Patented Dec. 15, 1942 COMBINED RUFFLING AND PINKING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES Joseph Cosentino, Richmond Hill, N. Y., assignor to Man-Sew Pinking Attachment Corp, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application August 3, 1940, Serial No. 350,656

7 Claims.

This invention relates to a combined rufiling and pinking device for sewing machines and has for its general object and purpose to provide a simple and efficiently operating mechanism especially designed for application and use in connection with modern high speed factory production sewing machines, whereby garment materials may .be simultaneously rufiled and edge pinked and the two pieces of fabric accurately stitched together to form an ornamental seam.

It is a more particular object of the invention to provide in combination with a pinking device of the type disclosed in Patent No. 2,142,682 issued to Man-Sew Pinking AttachmentCorp, January 3, 1939, a novel form and construction of combined ruffling and feeding blade which operates to produce accurately formed ruffles in one piece of fabric and to feed the edge of said fabric piece and the superposed edge of a second fabric piece to the pressure roller of the pinking device so that in the operation of said device lateral pull or strain on the fabric pieces adjacent to the stitch forming needle will be prevented and a straight undeviating line of stitching connecting the fabric pieces with each other will be produced.

It is another important object of the invention to provide a combined rufiling and pinking means which will enable the line of stitching to be located very close to the fold formed in the edge of one piece of fabric and in accurate parallel relation therewith.

It is a further detail object of the invention to provide a simply constructed one-piece blade having independently acting parts, one of which forms the ruffles in one piece of fabric and feeds the same to the sewing machine needle while the other part of said blade has resilient pressure engagement upon the superposed edges of the two pieces of fabric and feeds the same after they have been stitched together to the rotating cutter of the pinking device.

With the above and other objects in view, the invention consists in a combined milling and pinking device for sewing machines, and in the form, construction and relative arrangement of its several parts, as will be hereinafter more fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawing and subsequently incorporated in the subjoined claims.

In the drawing wherein I have shown one simple and practical embodiment of the invention and in which similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Fig. 1 is a top plan view of the rufiling and pinking device, showing the combined ruffling and feeding blade in its retracted position.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation thereof.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary inner face View of the fabric seam, and

Fig. 4 is a similar fragmentary view of the outer or exposed face of the fabric seam.

Referring in detail to the drawing, in Fig. 1 thereof I have shown a section of the bed plate 5 of the sewing machine upon which the base 6 of the pinking device is suitably secured. This device includes the pinking ring or cutter I mounted upon base 6 to rotate in a horizontal plane and the pressure roller 8 which presses the edges of the fabric pieces upon the pinking teeth of the cutter 1'. Further detail description of this pinking device is unnecessary for the purpose of the present application, as reference may be had to the issued patent above referred to.

The diametrical axis of the cutter I and of the roller 8 at right angles to the line of feed of the fabric materials, is located rearwardly of the plane of the vertically vibratin needle 9 and the teeth of the cutter beneath the roller 8 approach very closely to the seam line formed by said needle so that a garment seam may be formed having relatively narrow pinked edges projecting from one side of the line of stitching.

In conjunction with the needle 9, the usual presser foot I0 is employed with which the conventional feed dog mechanism, such as that shown in said issued patent, cooperates to inter mittently feed the fabric materials to the stitch forming mechanism of the machine.

In combination with the pinking means above referred to, I prefer to employ a type of rufiling mechanism, in which the individual ruffles are formed in one piece'of fabric and positioned for stitching to a second piece of fabric in the upstroke of the needle 9. In" the drawing I have illustrated a part of such a ruffling mechanism which is similar to that shown and described in the pending application for patent of Victor J.

Sigoda filed December 23, 1939, Ser. No. 310,844. r

The housing II for the actuating mechanism of the rufiling blade is attached to the end face of the sewing machine arm (not shown) and said mechanism operatively connected with the needle actuating shaft of the sewing machine. On the lower end of this housing, the depending oscillating arm I2 is mounted and to the lower end of said arm, one end of the combined rufiiing and feeding blade 13 is pivotally connected and normally yieldingly urged downwardly from said arm towards the bed plate 5. This blade extends rearwardly towards the needle 9 and is slotted or bifurcated as at [4 to provide an end portion IS in line with the needle 9 having the toothed or serrated edge I6 disposed at right angles to the line of feed of the material. This toothed edge of the part I is yieldingly pressed downwardly upon the surface of a supporting plate [1, over which the lower layer of fabric is fed beneath the inclined guiding bar l8 integrally connected with the base I! at one edge thereof. I! at its rear edge terminates closely adjacent to the needle 9 and is also toothed or serrated blade I3 is formed with the partx2fl projecting.

rearwardly beyond the part l5 and angularly offset above the plane thereof for independnt'iresilient yielding movement relative to said part I 5. The rear edge of the part 20 is also toothed or serrated as at 2| andcooperates with the toothed edge '23 of a rearward extension 22 of thebase plate l1. These two toothed edges 2| and 23 are located above and extend across the teeth of the rotatable pinking member I in advance of the pressure roller 8.

Above the ruffling blade 13, there is arranged a longitudinally inclined folder guide 24 for the second fabric layer. This second fabric layer extends through said guide 24 and above the parts and of the reciprocating blade 13. After the bight of said fold passes rearwardly of the needle 9, said second fabric layer extends upwardly over the pressure roller 8 of the pinking device in the manner shown in said issued patent. In Figs. 3 and f the drawing, I have shown the lower fabric layer which moves over the supporting base IT, at 25 and the upper fabric layer which moves through the folder guide 24, at 2B. 21 indicates the folded edge portion of the latter fabric layer which extends through slot l4 beneath the part 20 and is superimposed upon the edge portion 28 of the fabric layer 25. Thus it will be understood that only these superimposed 'edge portions of the two pieces of fabric, after passing beyond the toothed edge 2| of the blade I3, are pressed upon the teeth of the cutting member I by the roller 8 while the body of the fabric layer 26 extends upwardly around and above said pressure roller.

If desired, as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawing, a narrow ornamental braid strip 29 may be fed under the supporting base 11 with the fabric layer 25 in line with the'needle 9 to be stitched to the two pieces of fabric in overlying relation with the ruffles form-ed in the fabric layer-25.

In the operation of the invention as above de scribed, in the action of the feed mechanism of the sewing machine, the two layers of fabric are progressively fed over the supporting plate II and through the folder'guide 24 to the needle 9, and as the needle moves upwardly, the rufiler actuating mechanism oscillates arm l2 and moves the blade 13 rearwardly. The toothed edge portion [6 of this blade cooperating with the plate N forms a ruflle in the lower fabric layer 25 and projects the same beyond the toothed edge Iii-of said plate, under the presser foot and in posi-,

tion for penetration by the thread carrying needle 8 of the stitching mechanism. The upper fabric layer 26 in its movement through the guide 24 has its edge portion infolded as at2l and disposed in superimposed relation upon the ruiiled edge of the fabric layer "25 as it is drawn beneath the pres'ser foot. Concurrently with this The base ruffie forming action of the part. [5 of blade [3, the toothed edge 2| of the part 20 of said blade, resiliently bearing upon the upper side of the fold 21, projects said folded edge of the fabric layer 26 which has been previously stitched to the underlying rufiled edge of the fabric layer 25 beyond the teeth 23 of the stationary plate 22 and feeds the same beneath pressure roller 8 to the teeth of the pinking member I. The teeth 2| being engaged with the fold 21 at a point rearwardly of the needle 9 prevents lateral pull of the fabric layer 25 in the arcuate movement of the teeth of the pinking member 1 so that in the downstroke of the needle 9 and as the blade I3 is retracted, a continuous straight line of stitching indicated at30 will be formed, securely uniting the pinked edges of the two layers of fabric, in close parallel relation to the bight of the fold ,21 in the fabric layer 26. In the retraction of which also acts to prevent lateral movement or displacement of the superimposed edges at the point of penetration by the stitch forming needle 9. This results in an accurately registered relation of the pinking cuts in the edges of the two layers of fabric and also a line of stitching spaced a minimum distance fromthe seam fold and'in undeviating parallel relation with the fold line of the fabric layer 26.

From the foregoing description considered in connection with the accompanying drawing, the construction and manner of operation of the present invention will be clearly understood. I have disclosed an application thereof in connection with the making of a particular type of dress ,;or garment seam, though it will be understood ornamented garment materials upon modern high.

speed sewing machines. Both the pinking and ruffling devices are of comparatively simpleme-- chanical construction and readily adaptable to various standard makes of sewing machines for efiicient and reliable operation in connection therewith and without requiring mechanical alterations in such machines of a material character.

While I have herein shown one practical and preferred embodiment of the present improvements, it is nevertheless to be understood that the essential features thereof are susceptible of embodiment in various other alternative me.-

chanical forms. Accordingly, I reserve the privilege of resorting toall such legitimate changes elements as may fairly be comprehended with in the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In combination with a sewing machine hav ing standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a rotatable trimming member having cutting engagement with the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, a ruining device including an oscillatory rufliing blade mounted in advance of the needle, and means engaging the material between the needle and the point of contact of the trimming member with the material to resist pulling strain on the material at the point of stitching in an angular direction with respect to the path of movement of the material.

2. In combination with a sewing machine having standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a rotatable trimming member having cutting engagement with the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, a ruining device including an oscillatory rufiiing blade mounted in advance of the needle, and means concurrently operable with the ruffle forming movement of said blade to simultaneously and positively feed a previously rufiled and stitched section of the material to said trimming member.

3. In combination with a sewing machine having standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a rotatable trimming memg ber having cutting engagement With the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, a ruifiing device including an oscillatory ruilling blade mounted in advance of the needle, said blade having a ruflie forming part engaging the material in line with the needle and also having a second resiliently yieldable part exerting pressure upon the material at one side of the needle and rearwardly thereof to positively feed the material to said l trimming member and resist pulling strain upon the ruflied material at the point of stitching in an angular direction relative to the path of movement of the material.

4. In combination with a sewing machine hav- 4 ing standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a rotatable trimming member having cutting engagement with the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, a ruffiing device including an oscillatory rufi'ling blade mounted in advance of the needle, said blade having a rufile forming part engaging the material in line with the needle and also having a second resiliently yieldable part exerting pressure upon the material at one side of the needle and rearwardly thereof to positively feed the material to said trimming member and resist pulling strain upon the rufiied material at the point of stitching in an angular direction relative to the path of movement of the material, and a stationary means associated with each of said parts of the ruflling blade to engage and hold the milled material relative to the needle and trimming member respectively in the retracting movement of said blade.

5. In combination with a sewing machine having standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a pinking member mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane and having cutting engagement with the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, pressure applying means associated with said pinking member, a rufiling device including an oscillatory rufiiing blade mounted in advance of the needle, and said blade having independently acting parts adapted respectively to form ruffles in the material and position the same relative to said needle, and to positively feed previously rufiled and stitched sections of the material to said pressure applying means.

6. In combination with a sewing machine having standard feed mechanism and a vertically reciprocating needle; a pinking member mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane having cutting engagement with the material rearwardly of the needle and adjacent the line of stitching formed thereby, pressure applying means associated with said pinking member, means for guiding two layers of fabric to the needle and for forming a fold in the edge of one fabric layer and positioning the same in superposed relation upon the edge of the other fabric layer, and a rufliing device including an oscillatory blade having independently acting parts one of which forms rufiies in the latter fabric layer and positions the same relative to the needle, the other part of said blade resiliently bearing upon the superimposed edges of the fabric layers to positively feed the same to said pressure applying means.

'7. In a ruffling device adapted for cooperation with stitching and trimming mechanism of a sewing machine, an oscillatory blade having a longitudinally bifurcated end portion providing spaced relatively yieldable parts of relatively different lengths, one of said parts adapted to form ruffies in the fabric material and position the same relative to the stitching mechanism, and the other part of said blade extending beyond said first named partand adapted for engagement with ruffled and stitched sections of the material to positively feed the same to the trim ming mechanism in each rufiie forming movement of said blade.

JOSEPH COSENTINO.

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