US2304011A - Method and means for making neckties - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 1, 1942. 'v; N T L, 2,304,011

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Oct. 4, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet l l illinn i nli I h T V 7 INVENTOR M41 EA/77A/E MFMA/ 3 I iORNEY 1, 1942. v. NAFTALI METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed 001;. 4, .1938 s Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR ORNEY MIZENT/NF A/nFm/ I x v Dec. 1, 1942. v. NAFTALI METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING .NECKTIES Filed Oct. 4, .1.958 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTQ NE'Y Patented Dec. 1, 1942 METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Valentine Naftali, NewYork, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & Foundry Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 4, 1938, Serial No. 233,168

Claims. (01. 223-1) This invention relates generally to neckties. More particularly, my invention relates to an improved method and means for preparing necktie fabrics for stitching.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide an improved method and means for gauging opposite longitudinal edges of a cut to pattern necktie fabric so that the same may be properly folded in relation to a predetermined line of stitching and so that the bias line of the necktie fabric will be parallel to the longitudinal aXis of the completed tie in order to obtain maximum stretch and resilience.

Another object of my invention is to provide an improved method and means for manufacturing self-lined neckties.

A further object of my invention is to provide an improved method and means for preparing necktie fabrics in relation to a predetermined line of stitching which shall be simple and inexpensive to practice, which shall comprise relatively few and simple parts, and which, at the same time, shall be highly efiicient and practical for the purposes intended.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

Th invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements and arrangement of parts which will be exemplifled in the construction hereinafter described,

and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of this invention;

Fig. l is a plan view of a necktie fabric gauging apparatus constructed in accordance with my invention and illustrating a step in my improved method of manufacture;

Fig. 2 is a View similar to Fi 1 but illustratfing a further step in my improved method of manufacture; Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken ing the completed necktie of my Fig. 6 form of invention; I

Fig. 9 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 99 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a View similar to Figs. 2 and 6 but illustrating still another modified form of my invention;

Fig. 11 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line Hll of Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 1 but showing another modified form of my invention;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line |3-|3 of Fig. 12 but showing the tie fabric in folded position;

Fig. 14 is an elevational view of the necktie fabric shown in Fig. 10 after the same has been provided with a longitudinal straight line of stitching; and

Fig. l5is an enlarged cross-sectional View similar to Fig. 5 but illustrating the construction of the Fig: 14 form'of necktie when reversed.

In the drawings, I have illustrated my invention as applied to a method of manufacturing neckties such as disclosed and described in the patent to R. Naftali et al., No. Re. 19,653, dated July2'3, 1935. Briefiystated,such method comprises folding a flat necktie fabric longitudinally with the wrong side outermost in relation to a predetermined line of stitching, and then mounting the folded fabric on a frame. The frame is placed on a suitable stitching machine where it is stitched with a longitudinal line of loose stitching. The tubular necktie casing thus formed is then turned inside out or reversed and, after pressing, a completed necktie is obtained. It is understood, however, that any other suitable necktie stitching means may be employed in connection with my invention.

In the manufacture of neckties of'the character described, it is often desirable for the purposes of economy and in order to obtain maximum resilience and stretch in the finished necktie, to cut the necktie fabrics of unsymmetrical peripheral contour with respect to the longitudinal axes thereof. In such cases, it is essential that the necktie fabric be accurately folded longitudinally with respect to the position of a predetermined line of stitching. While this is true in the making of neckties having a separate lining, it is particularly true in the manufacture of the type of neckties known as self-lined neckties. In such self-lined neckties, there is no separate lining attached to the fabric during the stitching operation, but instead the fabric is so Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but illustrate cut that after it is longitudinally folded and.

stitched, and the tubular necktie fabric thus formed is reversed, an integral portion or portions of the layer will be disposed between the folded fabric layers to serve as a lining.

Referring now in detail to the drawings and more particularly to Figs. 1 to 5 and to 15, I will first describe my invention as applied to the manufacture of self-lined neckties. In the Figs 1 to 5 form of my invention, a necktie fabric 20 is cut to any desired shape, such as for example that shown in Fig. l. The fabric 29 is also preferably cut on the bias to obtain maximum resilience and stretch for the completed tie. It is then placed, with the right side facing upwardly, upon a flat surface 24 of any suitable table member 22. The table 22 may be provided with a longitudinal groove 23, the purpose of which will soon become apparent. In order to properly position the tie fabric 20 on the surface 2| so that it may be properly folded longitudinally in relation to the location of a subsequent predetermined line of stitching and so that the bias line will be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the completed tie, I have provided. a gauge member 25 which may be fastened to the table 22 by any suitable means, such as for example, the screws 26. Slots 26a. may be provided in the gauge member 25, through which the screws 25 are adapted to pass, so that the member 25 may be adjustably moved as desired. It is noted that the inner longitudinal edge 25a of the gauge 25 is shaped to conform to the contour of the adjacently disposed longitudinal edge ac of the necktie fabric 29. If desired, after the said fabric 20 has thus been properly positioned with respect to the gauge member 25, it maybe temporarily retained in such position by a series of spaced retaining clamps 21. The said clamps 21 may be of any desired construction, such as that clearly shown in Fgi. 3 of the drawings, in which a bell crank member 23 is rotatably supported on a bracket by the pivot 29. One arm 28a of the member 28 is adapted to overlie a portion of the unfolded necktie fabric 20, and is provided with a pin projection 30 on the underside thereof.

This projection 36 is adapted to pierce the fabric 29 to temporarily retain the fabric in the above described guaged position in abutting relationship with the edge 25a. If desired, suitable recesses 33 may be provided in the table member 22 to protectively receive the points of theprojections 3itherein. The clamp members 28 are designed to be in normally ineffective position by means of a spring 3|, one end of which is fixed to a pin 32a mounted on the gauge 25 and the other end thereof being fixed to a point 32 on the arm 28a. It is noted that the point 32 is spaced from the axis of the pivot 29 so that the spring 3! will tend to hold the member 28 in effective clamping position as shown in Fig. 3. If the bell crank 28 is rotated in a clockwise direction, it is seen that the spring 3| will tend to retain the same in a position in which the projections 30 are withdrawn from the fabric 20 and recesses 33.

Instead of the clamps 27, the type of clamp 21' illustrated in Figs. 10 to 13 may be employed. Such clamp 21 may comprise an arm 55 pivotally mounted at one end thereof on a fixed bracket 56. The opposite end of the arm 55 from the pivoted end may be provided with a gripping portion, such as for example a rubber tip, or a pin 51 as shown and adapted. to pierce the necktie fabric. The next step in my improved process is to so fold the necktie fabric 20 longitudinally with relation to a subsequent predetermined line of stitching, that an integral portion thereof will serve as a lining after the tubular tie fabric has been reversed as above described. Also, in accordance with my invention, I have devised a method and means for so folding the necktie fabric that the "bias line of the finished necktie will coincide with the longitudinal axis of the necktie or be parallel thereto. To this end, I have provided a second gauge member 35, which may be hingedly attached to the gauge member '25 and which is shown in Fig. 1 in open or ineffective position.

After the unfolded necktie fabric 20 has been temporarily confined by the clamps 21, as above described, the gauge member 35 is pivotally moved from the open position shown in Fig. 1 to the closed position shown in Figs. 2 and 3, in which the gauge member 35 overlies a portion of the gauge member 25. The free gauging edge 35a of the member 35 is shaped to conform to the corresponding portion of the longitudinal edge a'bof the fabric 20, and projects beyond the edge 25a of the member 25, to serve as a gauge for the tie fabric edge a'c when the fabric 25 is folded horizontally. In the form of my invention illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, the opposed longitudinal edges of the folded necktie fabric 20 are designed to substantially meet at the gauge surface 25a for substantially half the length of the tie, in other words, from approximately the points a, a to approximately the points b, b. However, from the points I), b to the points 0, c the opposed longitudinal edges of the necktie fabric 21!, when folded, will not meet but will be spaced from each other an amount equal to the distance which the gauge edge 35:: projects beyond the gauge edge 25a. After the gauge member 35 has been placed in effective position as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings, the fabric 20 is folded horizontally so that the longitudinal edge a'c is continuously disposed in relation to the new gauging edge formed by the combined gauges 25 and 35. Thus, the longitudinal edge portion a'b is gauged on the gauge surface 25a, while the longitudinal edge portion bc is gauged on the surface 359.. In the folded position, as above described, the necktie fabric is properly aligned with respect to a predetermined subsequent line of stitching, and to a central bias line. While in Figs. 1 and 2 I have shown my second gauge member 35 as disposed at the right-hand half of thetie fabric, it is understood that the gauge member 35 may be disposed at the left-hand end or at the central portion of the fabric 20. Also, ,if desired, the gauge member 35 may be substantially coextensive in length with the gauge member 25.. Also, instead of hingedly mounting the-second gauge member 35 on the gauge member ,25, ,it may be independent and normally unattached.

In order to facilitate the process of manufacturing, there may be mounted .for cooperation with the gauging mechanism above described, a removable clamp for maintaining the folded fabric in position during the stitching operation. Such clamp is designed to be mounted on a tie stitching machine and may be of any suitable construction, such as forexample, that shown and described in the co-pending application Serial No. 36,634, filed August 17, 1935. Such clamp may comprise a shaft 40 rotatably supported in a pair of bifurcated brackets 4M open at 'the top, and which are fixed to the table-122.

The shaft 43 is designed to be readily removed from the brackets 4|. Fixed to the shaft 40 are a plurality of arms 42 which are freely rotatable thereon. The arms 42 are designed to have rigidly attached thereto at their outer free ends, a stitch gauge comb 43. The comb 43 is provided, on its flat side, with pins 44 (see Fig. 1). Rigidly fixed to the shaft 40 are a plurality of arms 45 carrying at the free ends thereof a rod member 46, said rod member being normally designed to be received in the groove 23. Recessed portions 50 may be provided in the table 22 so that the arms 45 will underlie the fabric 20. After the fabric has been folded, as above described, the comb 43 is pivotally moved from the position shown in Fig. 1 to the position shown in Figs. 2 and 3, overlying the folded fabric. In such position the pins 44 will pierce the folded fabrics and hold the same in proper alignment, after which the temporary clamping members 21 may be removed and the entire frame lifted from the brackets M for attachment to a suitable tie stitching machine. Recesses may be provided in the rod 46 to protectively receive the points of the projections 44.

- After the stitching operation has been completed, and the clamp removed, the tubular tie casing thus formed is reversed and the back thereof will appear as shown inFig. l. The apparatus for gauging the fold of the fabric may be so designed, as described above, that an integral portion 20a of the necktie fabric 28 will be disposed within the tubular tie casing to serve as a lining therefor, as clearly shown in Fig. 5'. It is also seen that the distance between the longitudinal edges b'c', and bc, when the fabric is folded, will be equal to the distance which the gauge edge 35a overhangs the gauge edge 25a.

While in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings the larger end of the necktie fabric is shown as being disposed at the right hand end of the gauge member and 35, it is understood that my invention may also be satisfactorily practiced with the larger end of the fabric disposed at the left hand end of said gauges.

It is also to be understood that the necktie fabric 20 may be designed to have a peripheral contour such that it would be necessary for the edge 35a of the gauge member 35 to be spaced inwardly from the gauge edge 25a instead of overhanging the same as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings, and my invention extends to such construction.

In Figs. 6 to 9 I have disclosed my invention as applied to a four-in-hand necktie made from a necktie fabric cut to a different pattern from that of the fabric 20. In this type of tie construction the distance between the opposed longitudinal edges m-y and .ry' of the tie fabric, when folded as shown in Fig. 7, is substantially the same throughout the length of the fabric. In the manufacture of this type of necktie, it is therefore necessary to provide gauging mechanism designed for separately gauging the longitudinal edge a:'-y and. the entire longitudinal edge xy after the same has been folded. To this end I have constructed my gauging apparatus as shown in Fig. 6, in which there is provided a gauge member 25', similar to the gauge 25, and having an edge 25a designed to gauge the longitudinal edge a:y of the tie fabric 20'. When the fiat tie fabric 20' has been suitably positioned on the table 22 and gauged with respect to the gauge edge 25a, as hereinbefore the edge :ry thereof gauged against the edge 35a of the overlying gauge member 35' similar in construction and in function to that of the gauge 35. After properly independently gauging both longitudinal edges of the folded fabric 20,

as above described, the same may be held in such folded gauged position by the removable clamp device hereinbefore described, and mounted on a suitable tie stitching machine where it is provided with a predetermined longitudinal row of stitching 50 to form a tubular tie casing. When the said tubular tie casing is reversed, it appears as shown in Figs. 8 and 9.

While in Figs. 7 and 9 of the drawings I have illustrated this form of my invention as applied to an unlined four-in-hand necktie, it is understood that a suitable tie lining may also be properly superimposed upon and attached to the folded fabric 20 by the line of stitching 50, so that upon reversing, the said lining will be disposed within the tubular fabric.

By my invention I have also provided a novel method and means for making self-lined neckties from fabrics which have been cut substantially symmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis thereof. 1

As shown in Figs. 10, 11, 14 and 15, I have provided a single gauge member 50, adjustably mounted on the table member 22 by means of the screws 26 and slots 26a. The gauge member 60 is provided with a gauging edge 68a which is designed for gauging the two opposed edges mn and 021 of the longitudinally folded necktie fabric 6!.

The gauge 60 is so positioned on the table 22 with respect to frame member 43 that a subsequent predetermined line of stitching 62 made by the tie stitching machine will result in a tubular tie fabric as shown in Fig. 14 of the draw-v ings. When this tubular tie fabric has been reversed, it will appear in transverse cross section as in Fig 15 of the drawings. It is noted that the adjacent fabric portions from the line of stitching 62 to both longitudinal edges m, n and o, p will serve as tie linings to form a self-lined necktie. It is also noted that in this form of my invention, the bias line of the finished necktie will be parallel to the longitudinal axis thereof.

In Figs. 12 and 13 of the drawings I have shown a modified form of my invention in which, instead of temporarily confining the fiat necktie fabric I0 before folding, I prefer to first gauge the longitudinal edge t-u on the gauge edge Ha of the gauge member ll, then fold the fabric I0 longitudinally, at the same time gauging the opposed longitudinal edge v-w on the gauge edge 12a of the second gauge member 12 after it has been positioned in its effective position as shown in full lines in Fig. 13. Then I temporarily confine the folded fabric H'! by means of the clamps 21 mounted on the gauge member 12. The

clamps 2'! may be manually operated and are held in clamping position, as in Fig. 13, by their own weight. The dotted line position of the gauge member 12 (Fig. 13) represents the ineffective position as shown in Fig. 12.

It will thus be seen that there is provided a device in which the several objects of this invention are achieved, and which is well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter heredescribed, it is then folded longitudinally and in set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to b'e interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. In a method of making resilient, bias-cut neckties from a fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges of predetermined contour, the steps comprising, arranging said fabric on a surface in such manner that one longitudinal edge thereof will be in effective relationship with a gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contour of said first longitudinal edge, temporarily confining said fabric in such gauged position, folding said fabric longitudinally, and at the same time arranging said folded fabric to position the fold line thereof in predetermined relationship relative to said opposed longitudinal edges by abutting at least a considerable portion of the opposed free longitudinal edge of said fabric against a second gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contour of said second longitudinal edge.

2. In a method of making resilient, bias-cut neckties from a fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges of predetermined contour, the steps comprising, arranging said fabric on a surface in such manner that one longitudinal edge thereof will be in effective relationship with a gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contour of said first longitudinal edge, temporarily confining said fabric in said gauged position, folding said fabric longitudinally and at the same time arranging said folded fabric to position the fold line thereof in predetermined relationship relative to said opposed longitudinal edges by abutting at least a considerable portion of the opposed free longitudinal edge against a second gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contour of said second longitudinal edge, confining said fabric in said folded and gauged position and stitching adjacent fold fabric portions together to form a: tubular tie casing.

3. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient, bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, said necktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means for arranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof will be disposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges and to an ultimate line of stitching, said means comprising a pair of separate gauge members having contours matching the contours of said opposed edges, one of said gauge members being supported on the other of said gauge members.

4. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient, bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, said necktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means for arranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof will be disposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges, said means comprising a work support table, an immovable elongated gauge member having contours matching the contours of one of said opposed edges of said fabric fixed to said table, and a second elongated gauge member having contours matching the other opposed edge of said fabric supported on said fixed gauge, said second gauge member being constructed and arranged for movement into position to gauge the second named opposed edge of said fabric after said first named edge has been gauged by said fixed gauge.

5. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient, bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, said necktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means for arranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof Will be disposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges and to an ultimate line of stitching, said means comprisin a work table, a pair of separate gauge members having contours matching the contours of said opposed edges, one of said gauge members being supported on the other of said gauge members, and releasable means for clamping a longitudinal gauged edge of said fabric to said work table.

VALENTINE NAF'IALI.

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