US2303057A - Method and means for making neckties - Google Patents

Method and means for making neckties Download PDF

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Publication number
US2303057A
US2303057A US308935A US30893539A US2303057A US 2303057 A US2303057 A US 2303057A US 308935 A US308935 A US 308935A US 30893539 A US30893539 A US 30893539A US 2303057 A US2303057 A US 2303057A
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fabric
members
stitching
lining
tie
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US308935A
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James J Mcginley
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AMF Inc
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AMF Inc
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/001Making neckties

Definitions

  • This invention relates generally to neckties. More particularly, this invention relates to an improved method and means for automatically assembling necktie fabrics preparatory to stitching.
  • One of the objects of this invention is to provide an apparatus of the character described, which shall have automatically actuated means whereby to arrange a necktie fabric and a lining in relatively superimposed relationship and with respect to a predetermined line of stitching with a minimum of handling.
  • Another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, novel means for automatically folding a necktie fabric longitudinally and stretching the same in a longitudinal direction after the fabric has been folded and before stitching, to simulate the action of the making of so-called hand-made ties.
  • a still further object of my invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, automatic means for locking the assembled and properly positioned necktie fabric and lining on a stitching frame.
  • a still further object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, means for automatically ejecting the stitching frame from its support after it has clamped the relatively superimposed necktie fabno and lining in proper relationship with respect to a predetermined line of stitching.
  • FIG. 1 is a front elevational view of an apparatus designed to automatically assemble a view taken substantially on taken substantially on necktie fabric and a lining preparatory to stitching, in accordance with this invention
  • Fig. 2 is an enlarged plan view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 and illustrating a tie fabric templet with the tie fabric properly positioned therein;
  • Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical cross-sectional the line 33 of Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a horizontal cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;
  • Fig. 4a is a fragmentary view of the apparatus shown in Fig. 4, but illustrating the operation of the folding blade;
  • Fig. 5 is an enlarged transverse cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 5--5 of Fig. 4;
  • Fig. 5a is an enlarged sectional detail view of a portion of the apparatus illustrated in Fig, 5, the line 5a 5a of Fig, 5;
  • Fig. 6 is a horizontal cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3 and showing the lining station;
  • Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing another stage in the automatic operation of the apparatus;
  • Fig. 7a is a view similar to Fig. '7, but illustrating still another step in the operation of the apparatus;
  • Fig. 8 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3 and illustrating the means for transferring the folded tie fabric to its superimposed position on the lining;
  • Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but illustrating a further step in the operation thereof;
  • Fig. 10 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3, but showing the stitching frame in one stage of actuation;
  • Fig, 11 is an enlarged detail view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 10;
  • Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 14a are enlarged detail sectional views taken substantially on the lines
  • Fig. 15 is a sectional detail view similar to Fig. 10. but illustrating the final step of automatically ejecting the stitching frame;
  • Fig. 16 is an enlarged transverse sectional view of the stitching frame illustrated in Fig. 15, but showing the construction and operation of the locking means employed to prevent accidental opening of the jaws of the stitching frame after I a lining member which fabric casing and connected thereto by the said the necktie fabrics have been gripped therebetween;
  • Fig. 17 is a fragmentary view of a portion of the device shown in Fig. 16, but illustrating a further step in the operation of the locking mechanism;
  • Fig. 18 is a front elevational view of a portion of the stitching frame actuating mechanism shown in Fig.
  • Fig. 19 is a top plan view, but in reduced size, of the stitching frame as shown in Fig. 16;
  • Fig. 19a is a view of the necktie fabric and lining shown in Fig. 19 after the same has been stitched on the sewing machine and removed from the stitching frame;
  • Fig. 20 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 18 and illustrating the means employed for causing the movement of the stitching frame to open and closed positions;
  • Fig. 21 is a front elevational view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 20 and as viewed substantially along the line 2 i2l of Fig. 20;
  • Fig. 22 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 22-22 of Fig. 20;
  • Fig. 22a is a view similar to Fig. 22, but illustrating another operative position for a portion of the apparatus;
  • Fig. 23 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2323 of Fig. 20;
  • Fig. 24 is a vertical sectional View of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3, but disclosing the driving and clutching mechanism therefor;
  • Figs. 24a and 24b are enlarged sectional details of the tie receiving 3 and 8; I
  • Fig. 25 is a wirin diagram illustrating the method of operation of the apparatus.
  • Fig. 26 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 4 and illustrating the construction and operation of a part of the driving mechanism for the apparatus of our invention
  • Fig. 27 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 21-21 of Fig. 26;
  • Fig. 28 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2828 of Fig. 26;
  • Fig, 29 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2929 of Fig. 28;
  • Fig. 29a is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line Ma-29a of Fig. 28;
  • Fig. 30 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 39-30 of Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 31 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line 3
  • Fig; 32 is a bottom shown in Fig. 30;
  • Fig. 33 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 33-33 of Fig. 31.
  • the materials employed in the making of neckties of the four-in-hand type generally consist of a tie fabric cut to a predetermined shape, which is formed into a tubular casing by stitching, and is disposed within the stitching.
  • the stitching is generally accomplished with the wrong side of the fabric outermost. and by means of a suitably designed tie stitching machine, such as for example the type disclosed in the Patent to Naftali et al.. No.
  • the necktie fabric, as well as the lining is preferably cut on the bias. It has been found that difficulty was heretofore experienced with the handling of these bias cut fabrics and linings, due to the ease with which they stretch out of normal shape.
  • the disadvantage in the method and means heretofore employed for preparing the tie fabric and lining for stitching was found in the fact that misshapen finished neckties resulted, due to the unavoidable distortion of the bias cut fabrics during the handling of such fabrics while performing the necessary preliminary arranging steps, such as for example the folding and relative positioning of the fabrics.
  • novel method and means are provided to overcome the above described disadvantages resulting from the handling of the fabrics and linings preparatory to stitching.
  • Means are provided whereby the amount of handling necessary for properly positioning the fabric and lining with respect to each other and to a predetermined line of stitching is minimized, and which at the same time will result in greatly speeding up the production of neckties. Also, by the present invention it is assured that all ties manufactured according to a predetermined pattern will conform to such pattern and will at the same time be uniform in construction and appearance.
  • the present invention generally contemplates a method and apparatus for making neckties in accordance with the following procedure.
  • a necktie fabric which has first been cut to a desired peripheral shape is first positioned in a templet shaped to conform to the previously cutto-pattern tie fabric.
  • a lining having similarly been cut to a desired pattern is then placed in a second templet.
  • the tie fabric is then automatically folded longitudinally and automatically superimposed in such folded condition on the lining in a definitely gauged position with respect to an ultimate line of stitching.
  • the relatively superimposed fabric and lining are then automatically mounted and maintained in such assembled relationship on a stitching frame, after which the stitching frame is automatically ejected from the apparatus for subsequent mounting on a suitable stitching machine, or for otherwise stitching the same.
  • Means are also provided whereby the folded necktie is automatically stretched longitudinally before being clamped by the jaws of the stitching frame, to produce loose stitching.
  • an apparatus constructed in accordance with this invention and comprising an upper fiat longitudinal table member 40 and a lower flat longitudinal table member 4
  • the parts 56 and51 of the lower table member substantially Y-shaped in the arms of the lower jaw of a stitching .iiisposed and suitably supported in fixed stationary position at opposite ends thereof by a pair of vertically disposed side brackets 42 and 43.
  • templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49 shaped to conform to the peripheral contour of the cutto-pattern necktie fabric and adapted to have the said fabric 56 positioned therebetween with respect to a predetermined longitudinal fold line which coincides with the slot 52.
  • the templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49 may be removably fastened to the table parts 44 and by any suitable fastening means, such as the screws 5
  • the table part 44 which is fixedly attached at opposite ends thereof to the brackets 42 and 43 may have its rear longitudinal edge 44a folded over and disposed in abutting relationship with respect to a tie fabric stoppage platform 53 (Figs. 2 and 3) also supported between the L brackets 42 and 43.
  • (see Figs. 3 and 6) is designed to support a previously cut-to-pattern-tie lining and comprises two parts 56 and 51 having their inner longitudinal edges .contiguously disposed and being suitably supported at their opposite ends by the brackets 42 On the upper surfaces of the lower table parts 56 and 51 there are provided raised templet or gauge members 58 and 59 shaped to conform to the peripheral contour of the cut-to-- pattern tie lining 55.
  • the said lining 55 may be made of a single piece of material or of two slightly overlapping pieces 55m and 55b, as shown in Fig. 6, and which lining is adapted to be positioned between the templets 58 and 59 with respect to an ultimate line of stitching.
  • the said templets 58 and 59 may be suitably removably fastened to the lower table parts 56 and 51 by the screws 6
  • a longitudinal slotted opening 64 is provided between the table parts 56 and 51, the said slot 64 being slightly longer than the length of the :l.
  • the table part 51 7 may be constructed of a series of plates 16, 1
  • the plates 10 to 14 there are mounted gauge pins 16 (see Fig. 8), each of which is fixedly attached to one end of a spring member 11.
  • the opposite end of the said spring 11 is fixedly attached to the under surface of one of the said plates 1
  • the stitching frame clamp 85 is designed to grip and hold the properly positioned lining 55 and superimposed folded fabric during the stitching operation and substantially throughout the length of the line to be stitched, to prevent distortion dur' ing stitching.
  • the said stitching clamp comprises a. pair of cooperating clamping jaw members 86 and 81, pivotally mounted on a single shaft member 88.,by means of the arms 93 and '92 respectively.
  • the shaft member 88 is adapted to be removably mounted adjacent opposite ends thereof on a pair of open brackets 89 (see Fig.
  • the said table portion 96 is arranged with the inner longitudinaledge thereof disposed adjacent the outer longitudinal edge of the table part 4
  • the lower jaw member comprises a longitudinal narrow rod member 94 provided with a plurality of upwardly projecting pins 95 spaced along the length thereof, while the cooperating upper jaw member 81 comprises an elongated flat rod 96 having teeth 91 in the outer longitudinal edge thereof.
  • the said rod members 94 and 96 are designed so that when the jaw members 86 and 81 are closed, they will clamp between them the folded tie fabric and lining, as hereinbefore explained, the prongs or pins 95 serving to prevent relative slipping and displacement of the fabric and lining while clamped by the frame 85.
  • the surface of the rod member 96 disposed adjacent the rod 94 may be provided with detents 950; to protectively receive the points of the prongs 95 therein. (see Fig. 11).
  • the teeth 91 are designed to transversely cross the predetermined line of stitching during such stitching operation, so as to produce loose stitching, in the manner fully described in assignees copending application, Serial No. 9398, filed March 5, 1935, by Naftali, et al., for Method of and machines for making neckties or similar articles.
  • the folded fabric is at the same time delivered to a pivotally mounted pocket member or fabric carrier disposed in substantially vertical position, after which the pocket member is caused to be moved or swung around to a substantially horizontal position to superimpose the said folded fabric on the lining 55 previously positioned between the templets 58 and 59 on the lower table member M in a definite position with respect to an ultimate line of stitching, as above described.
  • the said predetermined position of the necktie materials is such that, when the sewed together necktie fabric and lining are turned inside out or reversed to dispose the right side of the fabric outermost, the lining will be properly disposed within the tubular tie fabric casing.
  • a folding blade I is provided, which is made up of a series of flat relatively thin rectangular shaped members IOI, having adjacently disposed transverse edges IOIa and I 0Ib slightly spaced from each other.
  • the members IOI are preferably made of rigid material, such as for example any suitable metallic material, and are mounted on a longitudinal rigid supporting bar I02 in any suitable manner, so as to permit of angular adjustment of the members I0 I, in order that the contiguously disposed bottom edges I Me of thesaid members IOI shall be formed into any desired contour, such as for example the arcuate shape shown in Figs. 1, 4 and 4a.
  • FIG. 1 One such form of attachment is shown in the drawings, and comprises slotted openings I03 in the bar I02 disposed in the spaces between the members IOI. Into these openings I03 are fitted screw threaded members I04 provided with enlarged heads I040. The enlarged heads mm are designed to overlap portions of the members IOI adjacent the edges I Ma and IOIb. Wing nuts I 04b (see Fig. 3) may be employed to maintain the members I04 in position, to thus maintain the blade members IOI fixed to the bar I02.
  • the bar I 02 is provided at opposite ends thereof with a pair of depending bracket members I05 (see Figs. 1 and 4) fixed to said bar I02 for movement therewith by any suitable attaching means, such as for example by.weldlng.'
  • the bracket; members I05 are designed to freely slidably move in substantially vertically disposed guideways formed by the angle members I06 and I01 (see Fig. 3),, each having one leg thereof mm and I0Iu respectively rigidly fixed to the inner surface of the main side support 43 by any lineposition by abutment members I09 disposed within the guideway formed between the angle members I 06 and I01 and in the path of downward movement of thebrackets I05.
  • the said brackets I05 may be provided.
  • Each abutment member I09 forms part of a traveling carrier I I0 and is interconnected thereto by a rigid link III.
  • the carrier member I I0 is provided with a pair of rollers II2, which are designedto ride between a pair of confining tracks II3, fixed to the supports 42 and 43. i
  • the necktie fabric 50 is shown positioned between the templets 46 to 49 in unfolded condition and with the right side of the material uppermost. It is noted that the tie fabric 50 is disposed substantially in a horizontal plane.
  • the folding blade I00 is shown in full lines in its uppermost position.
  • the folding blade I00 is shown in a subsequent position after it has been permitted to move downwardly.
  • the members IOI of the folding blade are so aligned with respect to the longitudinal slot 52 in the upper table 40, and are of such thickness, that a portion thereof will readily pass through the said slot 52 carrying the fabric '50 with it, to thereby fold the said fabric 50 substantially longitudinally in half.
  • the tie fabric 50 is shown as completely folded by the dotted lines 50a. It is noted that in this latter position the folded tie fabric 50a is substantially vertically disposed.
  • the folded tie fabric 50a to be received and retained in such folded condition while it is being transferred to superimposed position on the properly positioned lining 55 at the lower table level 4I.
  • a fabric carrier or pocket member H4 adapted to receive the folded fabric 55a therein and comprising a pair of fiat longitudinal wall members H5 and H5 disposed in spaced parallel relationship to each other.
  • the members IE5 and H6 are positioned directly underneath the tie fabric table member 40, and. the space I I! between the said members H5 and H6 is designed to be substantially of the same width as that of the space H8 between theangle members I06 and I01 and in alignment therewith and with the longitudinal slot 52 (see Fig. 3).
  • the edge portions H511, and Hfia of the members H5 and I I3 respectively are outwardly flared or rounded, as shown, to prevent damage to the folded tie fabricas it moves into the said space H1.
  • the members H5 and H6 are maintained in spaced relationship by the spacer members H9 disposed along the length thereof, and are fixedly supported on a longitudinal channel shaped support I23 by means of the screws I2I passing through the members H5 and H5, through said spacer members H9, and threadedly received in the threaded openings I22 of the support I20.
  • the following means are provided for releasably retain-- ing the folded fabric 50a in the pocket H4 and during the time that the said pocket member travels to its lower level position to superimpose the folded tie fabric 50a on the previously positioned lining 55.
  • the distance of downward travel of the folding blade I00 is limited by a pair of stop members !25 and IE5, mounted on the bent over flange of the bar I02 and disposed adjacent opposite ends thereof.
  • This limit of downward travel of the folding blade I00 is so arranged that the folded longitudinal V edge of the tie fabric 50a will be received in the irregular or unsymmetrical pattern.
  • the rods IZ'I may be adjusted to different levels, as shown in the d: awings, so that one end of the folding blade 353 may travel further into the space H! of the fabric carrier H4 than the other, to compensate for those necktie fabrics which are cut on an
  • the means for automatically causing the carrier members Iii) to travel downwardly to permit the folding blade lilil to falland accomplish its designed folding task, and for automatically restoring the said folding blade to its original position after the folding operation, will now be described.
  • each carrier H0 there is pivotally attached to an extending portion IIOa of each carrier H0 a lengthwise adjustable link comprising the parts I30 and HI interconnected by a threaded nipple member I32.
  • the part I30 is pivotally mounted on the extension IIEJa and the part I3I is pivotally connected to one end of a link I33 by the pivot I34.
  • the opposite end of the link I33 is pivotally connected to a stationary bracket I35 by the pivot I36, the said bracket I35 being in turn fixed to the main end support 42.
  • a cam I3'I is fixedly mounted on a rotatably mounted cam shaft I40.
  • a cam follower comprising a roller I38 is rotatably mounted on a lever I39.
  • the lever I39 is in turn pivotally supported at one end thereof by a stationary bracket MI, by means of the pivot I42, the said bracket I4! being fixed to the main support 42.
  • the pivot I42 is so positioned with respect to the cam I31 that the roller I38 will rest upon and ride on the rim or edge of the cam I31.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

Nov. 24, 1942. I
J. J. MGGINLEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIESQ.
- Filed Dec 1:5, 1959 15 Sheets-Sheet 1- INVEN1V'OR JZMfJJ'MG/Mi/ E .A ORNEY Nov. 24, 1942.
J. J. M GlNLEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 15, 1959 .15 Shget-Sheet 2 Hi. H h
INVENTOR Mill J. J. M GlNLEY" 2,303,057
H p l I METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKIIES Nov. 24, 1942.
' 15 S h ets -Sh e e't 3 Filled Dec 13, 1939 III'H H I 'W m INVENTOR \jx nis IMG/Mfl BY 4 a E ATTONEY J. "J. M GINLEY METHOD'AND MEANS FOR MAKING mscm'ms 15 sheets-sham 4 Filed Dec. 13, 1939 INVENTOR BY Jmfs JMG/Mi/ ATI' RNEY V 1 w II -4 a.
V U U W A Nov. 24, 1942. J. J. M GINLEY 2,303,057v
METHOD MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 13, 1939 15 SheetS S heet 5 INVENTOR 5 ATTOENE EY Nov. 24, 1942. J McGINLEY .METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 13, 1939 -l5 Sheet S heet 6 N. mm
Nov. 24, 1942. 1 J4 W 'NLEY I 2,303,057
. l l METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Fil ed Dec. 15, 1959 15 Sheets-Sheet 7 BY JIMEsJ/WG/NM) A ORNEY Nbil. 24, 1942. I J. J. M GlNl EY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'IES Filed Dec. 15, 1939 15 Sheets-:Shet 8 rr NEY I Nov. 24,. 1942.
J. J. M GINLE Y METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'I-ES.
Filed Dec. 13, 1959 15 Sheets-Sheet 9- 4 J. J. M GlNLEY .METHQD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIE'S Filed Dec. 13, 1939 I15 She ets-Sheet 10' INVENTOR j J7me: MGmzr 5 A11 NEYI Nov. 24, 1942.
J. J. M GINLEY' METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Fil ed Dec. 13, 1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 11 INVENTOR JZwzs I M wzzr' fi 3m w. 03m m m WU w u O O O 9 s w 9%. m 00m ow m i I If N w NF 55. 2m w W8 3 9 2 m3 Om A ORNEY Nbv. 24, 1942. .1. J. McGIN LEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES 15 Sheets-Sh e et 1 2 FiledDec. 13, 1939 INVENTOR ATTOK EEY 942. 'J. J. MGINLEY 3 5 7 METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'IES Filed Dec. 13, 1939 v 1s sheets-sheet 1a M9 v Mb'roa SWITCH 'ro souaci or cunlzsmsumv i J. J. M GINLEY v l METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NBCK'I'IES Nov. 24, 1942.
'Fil ed Dec 13, 19:59 15 Sheets-Sfieet 14 ATT RNEY Nby. 24, 1942. .H, McGINLEY 2,303,057
METHOD AND MEANS FOR-MAKING NECKTIES Patented Nov. 24, 1942 METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES James J.
McGinley, East Williston, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & Foundry Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New Jersey Application December 13, 1939, Serial No. 308,935
24 Claims.
This invention relates generally to neckties. More particularly, this invention relates to an improved method and means for automatically assembling necktie fabrics preparatory to stitching.
One of the objects of this invention is to provide an apparatus of the character described, which shall have automatically actuated means whereby to arrange a necktie fabric and a lining in relatively superimposed relationship and with respect to a predetermined line of stitching with a minimum of handling.
Another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, novel means for automatically folding a necktie fabric longitudinally and stretching the same in a longitudinal direction after the fabric has been folded and before stitching, to simulate the action of the making of so-called hand-made ties.
A still further object of my invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, automatic means for locking the assembled and properly positioned necktie fabric and lining on a stitching frame.
Still another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, improved automatically actuated folding means for folding a necktie fabric along a, predetermined longitudinal fold line. Another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, novel automatically actuated means for providing fullness to the large end of the finished necktie.
A still further object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character described, means for automatically ejecting the stitching frame from its support after it has clamped the relatively superimposed necktie fabno and lining in proper relationship with respect to a predetermined line of stitching.
' Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.
The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.
In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of this invention, 7 Fig, 1 is a front elevational view of an apparatus designed to automatically assemble a view taken substantially on taken substantially on necktie fabric and a lining preparatory to stitching, in accordance with this invention;
Fig. 2 is an enlarged plan view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 and illustrating a tie fabric templet with the tie fabric properly positioned therein;
Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical cross-sectional the line 33 of Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a horizontal cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;
Fig. 4a is a fragmentary view of the apparatus shown in Fig. 4, but illustrating the operation of the folding blade;
Fig. 5 is an enlarged transverse cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 5--5 of Fig. 4;
Fig. 5a is an enlarged sectional detail view of a portion of the apparatus illustrated in Fig, 5, the line 5a 5a of Fig, 5;
Fig. 6 is a horizontal cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3 and showing the lining station;
Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing another stage in the automatic operation of the apparatus;
Fig. 7a is a view similar to Fig. '7, but illustrating still another step in the operation of the apparatus;
Fig. 8, is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3 and illustrating the means for transferring the folded tie fabric to its superimposed position on the lining;
Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but illustrating a further step in the operation thereof;
Fig. 10 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3, but showing the stitching frame in one stage of actuation;
Fig, 11 is an enlarged detail view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 10;
Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 14a are enlarged detail sectional views taken substantially on the lines |2l2, 13-43, l4l4 and Mai-44a respectively, of Fig. '7 and showing the construction and operation of the automatic fabric stretching means;
Fig. 15 is a sectional detail view similar to Fig. 10. but illustrating the final step of automatically ejecting the stitching frame;
Fig. 16 is an enlarged transverse sectional view of the stitching frame illustrated in Fig. 15, but showing the construction and operation of the locking means employed to prevent accidental opening of the jaws of the stitching frame after I a lining member which fabric casing and connected thereto by the said the necktie fabrics have been gripped therebetween;
Fig. 17 is a fragmentary view of a portion of the device shown in Fig. 16, but illustrating a further step in the operation of the locking mechanism;
Fig. 18 is a front elevational view of a portion of the stitching frame actuating mechanism shown in Fig.
Fig. 19 is a top plan view, but in reduced size, of the stitching frame as shown in Fig. 16;
Fig. 19a. is a view of the necktie fabric and lining shown in Fig. 19 after the same has been stitched on the sewing machine and removed from the stitching frame;
Fig. 20 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 18 and illustrating the means employed for causing the movement of the stitching frame to open and closed positions;
Fig. 21 is a front elevational view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 20 and as viewed substantially along the line 2 i2l of Fig. 20;
Fig. 22 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 22-22 of Fig. 20;
Fig. 22a is a view similar to Fig. 22, but illustrating another operative position for a portion of the apparatus;
Fig. 23 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2323 of Fig. 20;
Fig. 24 is a vertical sectional View of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 3, but disclosing the driving and clutching mechanism therefor;
Figs. 24a and 24b are enlarged sectional details of the tie receiving 3 and 8; I
Fig. 25 is a wirin diagram illustrating the method of operation of the apparatus;
Fig. 26 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 4 and illustrating the construction and operation of a part of the driving mechanism for the apparatus of our invention;
Fig. 27 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 21-21 of Fig. 26;
Fig. 28 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2828 of Fig. 26;
Fig, 29 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2929 of Fig. 28;
Fig. 29a is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line Ma-29a of Fig. 28;
Fig. 30 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 39-30 of Fig. 1; Fig. 31 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line 3|-3l of Fig. 30;
Fig; 32 is a bottom shown in Fig. 30; and
Fig. 33 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 33-33 of Fig. 31.
The manufacture of neckties is an old art and pockets shown in Figs.
plan view of the apparatus a highly specialized one, and has progressed from the hand-made stage to the present large scale production. mainly by the development and perfection of mechanical tie stitching means. The materials employed in the making of neckties of the four-in-hand type generally consist of a tie fabric cut to a predetermined shape, which is formed into a tubular casing by stitching, and is disposed within the stitching. The stitching is generally accomplished with the wrong side of the fabric outermost. and by means of a suitably designed tie stitching machine, such as for example the type disclosed in the Patent to Naftali et al.. No.
- Within 1,931,447, issued October 17, 1933. After the stitching operation is completed, the sewed together tie fabric layers and lining are reversed and the necktie completed by pressing.
Before joining the necktie fabric and lining by a row of stitching, it is first necessary to arrange the said fabric and lining in a predetermined superimposed relationship to each other and to the ultimate line of stitching, so that, upon reversal, the lining will be properly positioned the tubular fabric casing,
In order to provide a four-in-hand necktie which will be resilient, so that when made up into a knot it will stretch longitudinally and upon untying will be restored to its original shape, the necktie fabric, as well as the lining, is preferably cut on the bias. It has been found that difficulty was heretofore experienced with the handling of these bias cut fabrics and linings, due to the ease with which they stretch out of normal shape. The disadvantage in the method and means heretofore employed for preparing the tie fabric and lining for stitching was found in the fact that misshapen finished neckties resulted, due to the unavoidable distortion of the bias cut fabrics during the handling of such fabrics while performing the necessary preliminary arranging steps, such as for example the folding and relative positioning of the fabrics.
In accordance with the present invention, novel method and means are provided to overcome the above described disadvantages resulting from the handling of the fabrics and linings preparatory to stitching. Means are provided whereby the amount of handling necessary for properly positioning the fabric and lining with respect to each other and to a predetermined line of stitching is minimized, and which at the same time will result in greatly speeding up the production of neckties. Also, by the present invention it is assured that all ties manufactured according to a predetermined pattern will conform to such pattern and will at the same time be uniform in construction and appearance.
The present invention generally contemplates a method and apparatus for making neckties in accordance with the following procedure.
A necktie fabric which has first been cut to a desired peripheral shape is first positioned in a templet shaped to conform to the previously cutto-pattern tie fabric. A lining having similarly been cut to a desired pattern is then placed in a second templet. The tie fabric is then automatically folded longitudinally and automatically superimposed in such folded condition on the lining in a definitely gauged position with respect to an ultimate line of stitching. The relatively superimposed fabric and lining are then automatically mounted and maintained in such assembled relationship on a stitching frame, after which the stitching frame is automatically ejected from the apparatus for subsequent mounting on a suitable stitching machine, or for otherwise stitching the same. Means are also provided whereby the folded necktie is automatically stretched longitudinally before being clamped by the jaws of the stitching frame, to produce loose stitching.
Referring now in detail to the drawings, there is disclosed an apparatus constructed in accordance with this invention and comprising an upper fiat longitudinal table member 40 and a lower flat longitudinal table member 4|, the said table members being substantially horizontally and 43.
.. table member 4| horizontal axes. as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, to
facilitate the work of the operator when manually 1.
.action and operation .after to be described may The parts 56 and51 of the lower table member substantially Y-shaped in the arms of the lower jaw of a stitching .iiisposed and suitably supported in fixed stationary position at opposite ends thereof by a pair of vertically disposed side brackets 42 and 43.
.raised templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49, shaped to conform to the peripheral contour of the cutto-pattern necktie fabric and adapted to have the said fabric 56 positioned therebetween with respect to a predetermined longitudinal fold line which coincides with the slot 52. The templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49 may be removably fastened to the table parts 44 and by any suitable fastening means, such as the screws 5|. The table part 44 which is fixedly attached at opposite ends thereof to the brackets 42 and 43 may have its rear longitudinal edge 44a folded over and disposed in abutting relationship with respect to a tie fabric stoppage platform 53 (Figs. 2 and 3) also supported between the L brackets 42 and 43.
The lower table member 4| (see Figs. 3 and 6) is designed to support a previously cut-to-pattern-tie lining and comprises two parts 56 and 51 having their inner longitudinal edges .contiguously disposed and being suitably supported at their opposite ends by the brackets 42 On the upper surfaces of the lower table parts 56 and 51 there are provided raised templet or gauge members 58 and 59 shaped to conform to the peripheral contour of the cut-to-- pattern tie lining 55.
The said lining 55 may be made of a single piece of material or of two slightly overlapping pieces 55m and 55b, as shown in Fig. 6, and which lining is adapted to be positioned between the templets 58 and 59 with respect to an ultimate line of stitching. The said templets 58 and 59 may be suitably removably fastened to the lower table parts 56 and 51 by the screws 6|].
It is noted that the surfaces of the upper tie fabric table member 40 and of the lower lining are tilted slightly about their positioning the tie fabric 59 and the lining 55 between the templets, and so that the automatic of the mechanism hereinbe seen by the operator.
4| are further reinforced and supported by a longitudinal centrally disposed rib casting 6|,
cross-sectional: contour, which in turn is fixedly mounted adjacent the ends thereof on suitable brackets 62 fixed to the side supports 42 and 43 by any suitable fastening means, such as for example the screws 63. A longitudinal slotted opening 64 is provided between the table parts 56 and 51, the said slot 64 being slightly longer than the length of the :l.
lining 55 and interposed between the gauge members 58 and 59. If desired, instead of the gauge members 59 being extended throughout the length of the lining on the longitudinal side opposite to ,that of the gauge member 58, the table part 51 7 may be constructed of a series of plates 16, 1|, .12, 13 and 14 spaced from each other a predetermined distance by the spaces 15, to permit the positioning and removal in such spaces of frame 1" clamp soon to be described. On the plates 10 to 14 there are mounted gauge pins 16 (see Fig. 8), each of which is fixedly attached to one end of a spring member 11. The opposite end of the said spring 11 is fixedly attached to the under surface of one of the said plates 1|] to 14 by a rivet 11a, so that the pins 16 will normally freely project through slots 18 in the said plates 10 to -14 and will yieldingly disappear when the upper different width lining or to a lining of different peripheral contour.
Before positioning the lining 55 between the gauges 5B, 59 and pins 16, a stitching frame clamp 85 (see Figs. 6, '1, 8 and 11, 16, 19) now to be described is first properly positioned. The stitching frame clamp 85 is designed to grip and hold the properly positioned lining 55 and superimposed folded fabric during the stitching operation and substantially throughout the length of the line to be stitched, to prevent distortion dur' ing stitching. The said stitching clamp comprises a. pair of cooperating clamping jaw members 86 and 81, pivotally mounted on a single shaft member 88.,by means of the arms 93 and '92 respectively. The shaft member 88 is adapted to be removably mounted adjacent opposite ends thereof on a pair of open brackets 89 (see Fig. '1) fixed to a table portion. 96 of the apparatus. The said table portion 96 is arranged with the inner longitudinaledge thereof disposed adjacent the outer longitudinal edge of the table part 4| and with the outer or opposite longitudinal edge thereof adjacent a front lower level table member 9| designed to receive the ultimately ejected clamp 95, in a manner to be described hereinafter.
The lower jaw member comprises a longitudinal narrow rod member 94 provided with a plurality of upwardly projecting pins 95 spaced along the length thereof, while the cooperating upper jaw member 81 comprises an elongated flat rod 96 having teeth 91 in the outer longitudinal edge thereof. The said rod members 94 and 96 are designed so that when the jaw members 86 and 81 are closed, they will clamp between them the folded tie fabric and lining, as hereinbefore explained, the prongs or pins 95 serving to prevent relative slipping and displacement of the fabric and lining while clamped by the frame 85. The surface of the rod member 96 disposed adjacent the rod 94 may be provided with detents 950; to protectively receive the points of the prongs 95 therein. (see Fig. 11). The teeth 91 are designed to transversely cross the predetermined line of stitching during such stitching operation, so as to produce loose stitching, in the manner fully described in assignees copending application, Serial No. 9398, filed March 5, 1935, by Naftali, et al., for Method of and machines for making neckties or similar articles.
When the opposite ends of the shaft are placed in the open brackets 69 to be held in such position, the jaws and 81 are opened up and the rod member 94 positioned within the longitudinal slot .64 (see Fig. 6), with the pins projecting upwardly. while the toothed rod is fully opened up so as to rest on the table portion automatically longitudinally folded, substantially on its longitudinal axis, to provide a single folded longitudinal edge and a pair of free longitudinal edges. The folding is so accomplished that the fabric, after being folded, will have the Wrong side outermost. The folded fabric is at the same time delivered to a pivotally mounted pocket member or fabric carrier disposed in substantially vertical position, after which the pocket member is caused to be moved or swung around to a substantially horizontal position to superimpose the said folded fabric on the lining 55 previously positioned between the templets 58 and 59 on the lower table member M in a definite position with respect to an ultimate line of stitching, as above described. The said predetermined position of the necktie materials is such that, when the sewed together necktie fabric and lining are turned inside out or reversed to dispose the right side of the fabric outermost, the lining will be properly disposed within the tubular tie fabric casing.
The mechanism designed for automatically 1ongitudinally folding the necktie fabric 50 and causing the folded tie fabric to be received in the pocket member will now be described.
As shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 4 of the drawings, a folding blade I is provided, which is made up of a series of flat relatively thin rectangular shaped members IOI, having adjacently disposed transverse edges IOIa and I 0Ib slightly spaced from each other. The members IOI are preferably made of rigid material, such as for example any suitable metallic material, and are mounted on a longitudinal rigid supporting bar I02 in any suitable manner, so as to permit of angular adjustment of the members I0 I, in order that the contiguously disposed bottom edges I Me of thesaid members IOI shall be formed into any desired contour, such as for example the arcuate shape shown in Figs. 1, 4 and 4a. One such form of attachment is shown in the drawings, and comprises slotted openings I03 in the bar I02 disposed in the spaces between the members IOI. Into these openings I03 are fitted screw threaded members I04 provided with enlarged heads I040. The enlarged heads mm are designed to overlap portions of the members IOI adjacent the edges I Ma and IOIb. Wing nuts I 04b (see Fig. 3) may be employed to maintain the members I04 in position, to thus maintain the blade members IOI fixed to the bar I02.
It is thus seen from the above described construction that when it is desired to move one of the members IOI either downwardly or upwardly or in an angular direction, it is merely necessary to unscrew or loosen the members I 04 and adjustably move the members ml. After such movement of the blade members IIII to desired adjusted position, the screw threaded members I04 may again be tightened.
The bar I 02 is provided at opposite ends thereof with a pair of depending bracket members I05 (see Figs. 1 and 4) fixed to said bar I02 for movement therewith by any suitable attaching means, such as for example by.weldlng.' The bracket; members I05 are designed to freely slidably move in substantially vertically disposed guideways formed by the angle members I06 and I01 (see Fig. 3),, each having one leg thereof mm and I0Iu respectively rigidly fixed to the inner surface of the main side support 43 by any lineposition by abutment members I09 disposed within the guideway formed between the angle members I 06 and I01 and in the path of downward movement of thebrackets I05. The said brackets I05 may be provided. with notched shoulders designed to contactively rest upon the abutment members I09. Each abutment member I09 forms part of a traveling carrier I I0 and is interconnected thereto by a rigid link III. The carrier member I I0 is provided with a pair of rollers II2, which are designedto ride between a pair of confining tracks II3, fixed to the supports 42 and 43. i
It is thus seen from the foregoing description that when the carrier members I I0 ride downwardly in their tracks I I3, the abutment members I09 will be carried along with the said carrier members, with the result that the brackets I05, together with the rod I02 and the entire folding blade I00, will fallor move downwardly due to the force of gravity to the dotted line positions, to effectively accomplish the task of longitudinally folding the unfolded tie fabric 50 positioned between the raised templets 46 to 49. It is noted that in the downward travel of the folding blade I00, a portion thereof passes through the slot 52.
By permitting the folding blade to fall by its own weight to accomplish the folding operation as just described, the operation of the machine is thus safeguarded against harm. Should the switch which closes the circuit to cause the automatic operation of the machine be accidentally thrown while the operators hands or arms are underneath the members IOI, such as for example while fitting the tie fabric into the tie tomplet on the upper level table 40, there will be no force other than that of gravity acting on the folding blade.
In Figs. 2 and 3 the necktie fabric 50 is shown positioned between the templets 46 to 49 in unfolded condition and with the right side of the material uppermost. It is noted that the tie fabric 50 is disposed substantially in a horizontal plane. In Figs. 3 and 4 the folding blade I00 is shown in full lines in its uppermost position. In Fig. 4a the folding blade I00 is shown in a subsequent position after it has been permitted to move downwardly. The members IOI of the folding blade are so aligned with respect to the longitudinal slot 52 in the upper table 40, and are of such thickness, that a portion thereof will readily pass through the said slot 52 carrying the fabric '50 with it, to thereby fold the said fabric 50 substantially longitudinally in half. In Figs. 3 and 4 the tie fabric 50 is shown as completely folded by the dotted lines 50a. It is noted that in this latter position the folded tie fabric 50a is substantially vertically disposed. To prevent the slipping of the necktie fabric 50 during the above described folding operation,-
the folded tie fabric 50a to be received and retained in such folded condition while it is being transferred to superimposed position on the properly positioned lining 55 at the lower table level 4I.
Referring now particularly to Figs. 1, 3, 4, 24a and 241), there is shown a fabric carrier or pocket member H4 adapted to receive the folded fabric 55a therein and comprising a pair of fiat longitudinal wall members H5 and H5 disposed in spaced parallel relationship to each other. The members IE5 and H6 are positioned directly underneath the tie fabric table member 40, and. the space I I! between the said members H5 and H6 is designed to be substantially of the same width as that of the space H8 between theangle members I06 and I01 and in alignment therewith and with the longitudinal slot 52 (see Fig. 3). At the receiving end of the space III the edge portions H511, and Hfia of the members H5 and I I3 respectively are outwardly flared or rounded, as shown, to prevent damage to the folded tie fabricas it moves into the said space H1.
The members H5 and H6 are maintained in spaced relationship by the spacer members H9 disposed along the length thereof, and are fixedly supported on a longitudinal channel shaped support I23 by means of the screws I2I passing through the members H5 and H5, through said spacer members H9, and threadedly received in the threaded openings I22 of the support I20.
As shown in Fig. 24b of the drawings, the following means are provided for releasably retain-- ing the folded fabric 50a in the pocket H4 and during the time that the said pocket member travels to its lower level position to superimpose the folded tie fabric 50a on the previously positioned lining 55.
,At spaced points along the length of the pocket H4 there are provided the screw members I23, each having one threaded end I23athereof received in the support I and an enlarged head I23?) abutting the outer surface of the member H5. A. bowed spring I24 surrounding the members I23 is disposed in the space I I1 between the members H5 and H6, to resiliently alter the width of the space I H at selected points, to frictionally and resiliently retain the folded longitudinal edge of the folded fabric 55a within the space II'I.
As clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 4a of the drawings, the distance of downward travel of the folding blade I00 is limited by a pair of stop members !25 and IE5, mounted on the bent over flange of the bar I02 and disposed adjacent opposite ends thereof. Each of the said stop meming blade, as shown by dotted lines IT! in Fig. 4. This limit of downward travel of the folding blade I00 is so arranged that the folded longitudinal V edge of the tie fabric 50a will be received in the irregular or unsymmetrical pattern.
space I I I to a satisfactory depth, to be resiliently held therein. Lock nuts I28 may be provided to maintain the stop members I25 and I26 in proper adjusted position. If desired, the rods IZ'I may be adjusted to different levels, as shown in the d: awings, so that one end of the folding blade 353 may travel further into the space H! of the fabric carrier H4 than the other, to compensate for those necktie fabrics which are cut on an The means for automatically causing the carrier members Iii) to travel downwardly to permit the folding blade lilil to falland accomplish its designed folding task, and for automatically restoring the said folding blade to its original position after the folding operation, will now be described.
As shown in Figs. 4 and 5, there is pivotally attached to an extending portion IIOa of each carrier H0 a lengthwise adjustable link comprising the parts I30 and HI interconnected by a threaded nipple member I32. The part I30 is pivotally mounted on the extension IIEJa and the part I3I is pivotally connected to one end of a link I33 by the pivot I34. The opposite end of the link I33 is pivotally connected to a stationary bracket I35 by the pivot I36, the said bracket I35 being in turn fixed to the main end support 42. It is thus seen from the above description that, when the link !33 is caused to rotate about its pivot I36 in a counterclockwise direction, as shown in Fig. 5, the carrier H0 will be caused to move downwardly and the rollers H2 will ride in the tracks H3. to permit the folding blade I00 7 *to fall by the action of gravity. When the link bers I25 and 125 comprises an externally threaded of the rods I21 will strike, table part 50 and thus:
i353 is rotated in a clockwise direction, the carrier H0 will be moved upwardly to restore the folding blade I00 to its original position.
To properly synchronize the above described downward and upward movement of the folding blade I50 and to render such movement automatic, the following mechanism is provided.
A cam I3'I is fixedly mounted on a rotatably mounted cam shaft I40. A cam follower comprising a roller I38 is rotatably mounted on a lever I39. The lever I39 is in turn pivotally supported at one end thereof by a stationary bracket MI, by means of the pivot I42, the said bracket I4! being fixed to the main support 42. The pivot I42 is so positioned with respect to the cam I31 that the roller I38 will rest upon and ride on the rim or edge of the cam I31. The opposite end of the lever I39 from that of the pivot I42 is interconnected to the link I33 by means of a second link I43 having one end thereof pivotally connected to the lever I39 by the pivot I44, and the opposite end of said link I43 pivotally connected to the link I33 by the pivot I45. It is now seen that when the cam shaft I40 is rotated in a clockwise direction, the carrier I I0 will be auto-, matically moved due to the action of the cam I3]. and the interconnecting links I39, I43, I33 and I30 to I32. The said movement of the carrier III] will bepfirst in a downward direction, to permit the folding blade I00 to fall, and then in an upward direction, to restore the folding blade I00 to its uppermost position. A spring I46, having one endthereof fixed to the lever I39 at I41,
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