US2270435A - Sleeve arrangement for garments - Google Patents

Sleeve arrangement for garments Download PDF

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Publication number
US2270435A
US2270435A US328951A US32895140A US2270435A US 2270435 A US2270435 A US 2270435A US 328951 A US328951 A US 328951A US 32895140 A US32895140 A US 32895140A US 2270435 A US2270435 A US 2270435A
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Prior art keywords
garment
edge
piece
under
sleeve
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Expired - Lifetime
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US328951A
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Rose B Hansen
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HELEN B STEINBRECHER
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HELEN B STEINBRECHER
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Priority to US328951A priority Critical patent/US2270435A/en
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Publication of US2270435A publication Critical patent/US2270435A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes

Definitions

  • My invention relates to improvements in sleeve arrangements for garments of men and women alike and is especially applicable to womens golf dresses, nurses uniforms and the like where trimness of appearance coupled with freedom of arm "and torso movements are prime essentials.
  • an object of my invention is to provide an improved free-swing connection between the sleeves and body of a garment which will permit free arm, shoulder and back movement of the wearer.
  • a further object is to provide such a connection which will be inconspicuous on the garment and yet will be highly efficient in use.
  • Fig. l is a rear elevation of a dress showing the invention applied thereto;
  • Fig. 2 is an enlarged, fragmentary rear elevation with partsbroken away;
  • Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary front elevation with parts broken away;
  • Fig. 4 is a fragmentary vertical section taken in the plane of the under arm seam
  • Fig. 5 is a reduced elevation of the under piece of my improved connection showing the same applied to the garment, the outer piece of the connection being removed;
  • Fig. 6 is a reduced elevation of the outer piece showing the same applied to the garment over the under piece.
  • G indicates a garment to which my invention is applied. While I have shown the invention applied to a womans dress, it is understood that it is applicable as well to any sleeved garment whether the same is designed to be Worn by men, women or children.
  • the garment G has shoulder yokes l0 which are connected to a front l3 and a back I2 by seams Illa and connected to the upper parts of sleeves II by short seams.
  • My improved connection comprises two substantially identical and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric 16 and I1 each comprising a leg and an integral pointed tail.
  • the under piece I! is slightly narrower than the outer piece I6 as is clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 6.
  • the side edge and arm hole portion of the garment back I2 is not directly connected to the sleeves that all but is connected by stit'c'zhing 20 to the concave side edge of the under piece I! of my connecting insert.
  • the opposite, convex side edge portion of the under piece I! is connected to the like edge of the outer piece l6 by stitching I8.
  • the concave edge of the outer piece [6 is connected by stitching H'a to the rear, u'nderf'and lower part of the front of the adjacent edge portion of the sleeve I I.
  • the upper 'side'edge portions of the garment front l3 are connected to the sleeves II by short seams l3a. Below the seams I3a, the remaining upper side edge portions and arm hole portions of the garment front l3 are connected. to the concave edge of the tail of the under piece I! by a continuation or the stitch m '20.
  • the lines of stitching l9 start at the arm hole sides of the under pieces I! and follow the under arm seams H but that the stitching I9 does not entirely traverse the pieces l1. Instead, the stitching terminates short of the opposite convex edge to leave free edge portions 2
  • the stitching l9 prevents the connection from being extended too far and from turning inside out.
  • the same returns readily to its original shape and position by gravity and/or by the natural resiliency of the fabric and no springs, elastics or other resilient members are necessary.
  • an end of an elastic could be connected to the free edge 2! with the other end anchored to the seam l4. While I have shown a line of stitching 19 extending from the concave edge of the under piece- [1, it is obvious that a stitch or two in the center of the under piece would serve equally well to accomplish thesame result.
  • a free-swing connecting insert between said sleeves and said garment comprising a pair of similar and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric, each comprising a leg and an integral tail, said pieces being superposed to provide an under and an outer piece, the upper ends of the legs of said pieces being joined and connected to a shoulder portion of said back of said garment, the concave and convex edges of each piece merging into a point at the end of the tail, said pieces being joined together throughout the length of their convex side edges, the concave side'edge of said under piece being attached to an upper side edge and arm hole edge of the back of said garment and an arm hole edge of the front of said garment, the upper side edge of the front of said garment above said arm hole edge being connected to said sleeve, the concave edge of the outer piece being connected throughout its length to said sleeve and means rigidly connecting a portion of said under piece only to a side portion of said garment below said sleeve, said
  • a free-swing, sleeve connection for a garment including an extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, said insert having the edge of one leg connected to the garment, the corresponding edge of the other leg connected to the sleeve and having a free apex; means rigidly connecting a portion of said first leg only to a portion of said garment, said last named means being positioned intermediate said edge of said last leg and the apex of said insert.
  • a freeswing connecting insert between said sleeves and said garment comprising a pair of similar and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric, said pieces being superposed to provide an under and an outer piece, the upper ends of the legs of said pieces being joined and connected to a shoulder portion of said back of said garment, said pieces being joined throughout the length of their convex side edges, the concave side edge of said under piece being attached to an upper side edge and arm hole edge of the back of said garment and an arm hole edge of the front of said garment, the upper side edge of the front of said garment above said arm hole edge being connected to said sleeve, the concave edge of the outer piece being connected throughout its length to said sleeve, a line of stitching connecting a portion of said under piece to the under arm seam of said garment, said line of stitching commencing at the concave edge of said under piece and extending toward the convex edge but terminating a substantial distance from said convex edge
  • a free-swing, sleeve connection for a garment including a two-piece extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, the pieces of said insert being substantially identical curved strips joined together along the convex edges and ends, the concave edge of one of said pieces being connected to the arm hole and rear side edge of the back of said garment, the concave edge of the other piece being connected to the lower and rear, arm hole portions of the sleeve and means rigidly connecting a portion of said first named piece only to a side portion of said garment, said last named means being positioned intermediate said concave and convex edges of said last named piece.
  • a free-swing sleeve connection for a garment including an extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, said insert hav ing an edge of one leg connected to the garment, having the corresponding edge of the other leg connected to the sleeve and having a free apex; stitching rigidly connecting a portion of said first leg only to said garment, said stitching being located intermediate said edge of said first leg and the apex of said insert.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Description

Jam 20, 1942- R. B. HANSEN 2,270,435
SLEEVE ARRANGEMENT -FOR GARMENTS Fil ed April 10, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l Jan. 20, 1942. v
R. B. HANSEN 2,270,435
SLEEVE ARRANGEMENTFOR GARMENTS Filed April 10, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 20, 1942 Rose B. Hansen, Asheville, N. 0., assignor of onetenth to Helen B. Steinbre'cher Application April 10, 1940, Serial No.328,951
, Claims.
My invention relates to improvements in sleeve arrangements for garments of men and women alike and is especially applicable to womens golf dresses, nurses uniforms and the like where trimness of appearance coupled with freedom of arm "and torso movements are prime essentials.
With the foregoing in View an object of my invention is to provide an improved free-swing connection between the sleeves and body of a garment which will permit free arm, shoulder and back movement of the wearer.
A further object is to provide such a connection which will be inconspicuous on the garment and yet will be highly efficient in use.
Other objects and advantages reside in the particular structure of the connection, combination and arrangement of the parts and in the particular mode of applying it to the garment as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art upon reference to the drawings and following detailed description thereof.
In the drawings:
Fig. l is a rear elevation of a dress showing the invention applied thereto;
Fig. 2 is an enlarged, fragmentary rear elevation with partsbroken away;
Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary front elevation with parts broken away;
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary vertical section taken in the plane of the under arm seam;
Fig. 5 is a reduced elevation of the under piece of my improved connection showing the same applied to the garment, the outer piece of the connection being removed; and
Fig. 6 is a reduced elevation of the outer piece showing the same applied to the garment over the under piece.
Referring to the drawings in detail G indicates a garment to which my invention is applied. While I have shown the invention applied to a womans dress, it is understood that it is applicable as well to any sleeved garment whether the same is designed to be Worn by men, women or children.
The garment G has shoulder yokes l0 which are connected to a front l3 and a back I2 by seams Illa and connected to the upper parts of sleeves II by short seams.
My improved connection comprises two substantially identical and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric 16 and I1 each comprising a leg and an integral pointed tail. The under piece I! is slightly narrower than the outer piece I6 as is clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 6.
As shown in Fig. 2, the side edge and arm hole portion of the garment back I2 is not directly connected to the sleeves that all but is connected by stit'c'zhing 20 to the concave side edge of the under piece I! of my connecting insert. The opposite, convex side edge portion of the under piece I! is connected to the like edge of the outer piece l6 by stitching I8. The concave edge of the outer piece [6 is connected by stitching H'a to the rear, u'nderf'and lower part of the front of the adjacent edge portion of the sleeve I I. The upper 'side'edge portions of the garment front l3 are connected to the sleeves II by short seams l3a. Below the seams I3a, the remaining upper side edge portions and arm hole portions of the garment front l3 are connected. to the concave edge of the tail of the under piece I! by a continuation or the stitch m '20.
The upper ends of the legs of the pieces [6 and I! are stitched to the rear yoke seam llla'while the pointed tails thereof are joined and stitched to the lower end of the front arm seams 13a.
To anchor the connecting insertto'the garment and to insure the return of the insert to its normal cross sectional V-sh'ape after it has been extended, I anchor the under pieces I! to the under-arm seams M of the garment by lines of "stitching [9. It is noted that the lines of stitching l9 start at the arm hole sides of the under pieces I! and follow the under arm seams H but that the stitching I9 does not entirely traverse the pieces l1. Instead, the stitching terminates short of the opposite convex edge to leave free edge portions 2|. .As is shown in broken lines in Fig. 4, the free edge portions 2| flex upwardly during arm, shoulder and back movement of the wearer to provide a high degree of freedom of movement. At the same time, the stitching l9 prevents the connection from being extended too far and from turning inside out. With this limitation on the extension of the connecting insert, the same returns readily to its original shape and position by gravity and/or by the natural resiliency of the fabric and no springs, elastics or other resilient members are necessary. At the same time, should it be desirable, an end of an elastic could be connected to the free edge 2! with the other end anchored to the seam l4. While I have shown a line of stitching 19 extending from the concave edge of the under piece- [1, it is obvious that a stitch or two in the center of the under piece would serve equally well to accomplish thesame result.
While I have shown and described what is now thought to be the preferred embodiment of my invention, it is to be understood that the same is susceptible of other forms and embodiments. Consequently, I do not intend to limit myself to the particular expression of my invention shown and described herein except as hereinafter claimed.
I claim:
1. In a garment having a front, back, arm holes and sleeves; a free-swing connecting insert between said sleeves and said garment, comprising a pair of similar and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric, each comprising a leg and an integral tail, said pieces being superposed to provide an under and an outer piece, the upper ends of the legs of said pieces being joined and connected to a shoulder portion of said back of said garment, the concave and convex edges of each piece merging into a point at the end of the tail, said pieces being joined together throughout the length of their convex side edges, the concave side'edge of said under piece being attached to an upper side edge and arm hole edge of the back of said garment and an arm hole edge of the front of said garment, the upper side edge of the front of said garment above said arm hole edge being connected to said sleeve, the concave edge of the outer piece being connected throughout its length to said sleeve and means rigidly connecting a portion of said under piece only to a side portion of said garment below said sleeve, said last named means being positioned intermediate said concave and convex edges of said under piece.
2. In a free-swing, sleeve connection for a garment, including an extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, said insert having the edge of one leg connected to the garment, the corresponding edge of the other leg connected to the sleeve and having a free apex; means rigidly connecting a portion of said first leg only to a portion of said garment, said last named means being positioned intermediate said edge of said last leg and the apex of said insert.
3. In a garment having a front, back, arm holes, under arm seams, and sleeves; a freeswing connecting insert between said sleeves and said garment, comprising a pair of similar and substantially J-shaped pieces of fabric, said pieces being superposed to provide an under and an outer piece, the upper ends of the legs of said pieces being joined and connected to a shoulder portion of said back of said garment, said pieces being joined throughout the length of their convex side edges, the concave side edge of said under piece being attached to an upper side edge and arm hole edge of the back of said garment and an arm hole edge of the front of said garment, the upper side edge of the front of said garment above said arm hole edge being connected to said sleeve, the concave edge of the outer piece being connected throughout its length to said sleeve, a line of stitching connecting a portion of said under piece to the under arm seam of said garment, said line of stitching commencing at the concave edge of said under piece and extending toward the convex edge but terminating a substantial distance from said convex edge.
4. In a free-swing, sleeve connection for a garment, including a two-piece extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, the pieces of said insert being substantially identical curved strips joined together along the convex edges and ends, the concave edge of one of said pieces being connected to the arm hole and rear side edge of the back of said garment, the concave edge of the other piece being connected to the lower and rear, arm hole portions of the sleeve and means rigidly connecting a portion of said first named piece only to a side portion of said garment, said last named means being positioned intermediate said concave and convex edges of said last named piece.
5. In a free-swing sleeve connection for a garment, including an extensible insert substantially V-shaped in cross section, said insert hav ing an edge of one leg connected to the garment, having the corresponding edge of the other leg connected to the sleeve and having a free apex; stitching rigidly connecting a portion of said first leg only to said garment, said stitching being located intermediate said edge of said first leg and the apex of said insert.
ROSE B. HANSEN.
US328951A 1940-04-10 1940-04-10 Sleeve arrangement for garments Expired - Lifetime US2270435A (en)

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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2514276A (en) * 1947-02-24 1950-07-04 William W Berman Sleeve construction
US2579550A (en) * 1948-10-08 1951-12-25 Town Fashions Inc Shirt
DE930081C (en) * 1951-08-22 1955-07-11 Rudolf Voelkel Outer and underwear of all kinds with an underarm gusset
US2831195A (en) * 1954-11-01 1958-04-22 Esther Dolin Garment sleeve construction
US20070028351A1 (en) * 2005-07-19 2007-02-08 Coolik Michael A Garment with improved sleeve movement
US20140130232A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 Nike, Inc. Freedom Of Movement Jacket/Coat
US10219554B2 (en) 2012-11-09 2019-03-05 Nike, Inc. Freedom of movement jacket/coat
US10750796B2 (en) 2012-11-09 2020-08-25 Nike, Inc. Freedom of movement garment

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2514276A (en) * 1947-02-24 1950-07-04 William W Berman Sleeve construction
US2579550A (en) * 1948-10-08 1951-12-25 Town Fashions Inc Shirt
DE930081C (en) * 1951-08-22 1955-07-11 Rudolf Voelkel Outer and underwear of all kinds with an underarm gusset
US2831195A (en) * 1954-11-01 1958-04-22 Esther Dolin Garment sleeve construction
US20070028351A1 (en) * 2005-07-19 2007-02-08 Coolik Michael A Garment with improved sleeve movement
US20140130232A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 Nike, Inc. Freedom Of Movement Jacket/Coat
US10004280B2 (en) * 2012-11-09 2018-06-26 Nike, Inc. Freedom of movement jacket/coat
US10219554B2 (en) 2012-11-09 2019-03-05 Nike, Inc. Freedom of movement jacket/coat
US10750796B2 (en) 2012-11-09 2020-08-25 Nike, Inc. Freedom of movement garment

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