US2232804A

US2232804A - Art of shoemaking

Info

Publication number: US2232804A
Application number: US249876A
Authority: US
Inventors: Rosenbaum Felix
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1939-01-09
Filing date: 1939-01-09
Publication date: 1941-02-25
Anticipated expiration: 1958-02-25

Description

Feb. 25, 1941. F.' ROSENBAUM 2,232,804

, ART OF SHOEMAKING Filed Jan. 9, 1959 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.1

Feb. 25, 1941. F. s -UM 2,232,804

ART OF SHOEMAKING Filed Jan; 9, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 u Q Q u Q a ilII/////////iii lumlmmmlll Patented 25, 1941 PATENT OFFICE ART OF SHOEMAKING Felix Rosenbaum, Leominster, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application January 9, 1939, Serial No. 249,876

14 Claims.

This invention relates to the art of shoemaking and particularly to methods and apparatus for use in the manufacture of wedge heel shoes.

By the term wedge heel shoe" is meant a shoe in which a wedge-shaped heel is located between t the outsole and the shoe, the wedge heel extending from the ball line to the heel end of the shoe, being fiat on its lower surface and having its upper surface contoured to fit substantially 0 the shank-and-heel portion of the bottom of a lasted shoe. The wedge heel may be made of wood, cork or other light material and is often covered on its exposed surface with upper leather or other material similar to or'contrasting with the shoe upper.

Although many shoes of this type are being made in which a wedge heel is attached by cement both to the shoe and the sole, difficulty has been experienced in attempting to secure 29 the wedge heel to the shoe and to the sole at the I same time by cement because the sole-attaching pressure tends, to 'force the wedge heel rearwardly and hence it is difficult to secure the proper relative relations between the shoe, the wedge heel and the sole. While this dlfllcuity may be obviated by cementing the wedge heel to the shoe before the sole is applied to the shoe or to the sole before the sole is applied to the shoe, such procedures involve additional operations 30 which are expensive and time-consuming.

Objects of this invention are to expedite the manufacture of wedge heel shoes and to reduce the cost of their manufacture. To this end, the invention, as illustrated, comprises a novel hotsurface of which the shank-and-heel portion of a full-length sole is attached by driven fastenings inserted through the sole into the heel.

In another aspect the invention comprises a method of making the bottom unit which consists in assembling a full-length sole and a wedge heel with the flat face of the he l in contact with the shank-and-heel portion of the flesh face of the sole, supporting the contoured face of the heel on a block having a surface, preferably substantially parallel to the sole, and presenting the assembly to a metallic machine for example a slugging machine, and inserting fastenings through the sole into the heel about the periphery of the sole substantially from the ball line around the heel end to theball line.

Another feature of the invention consists of apparatus to facilitate the performance of the above method comprising a block shaped in plan snbstantiallylil-te the shank-and-heel portom unit comprising a wedge heel to the fiat tion of a shoe bottom, having a flat lower face and an upper face contoured to as to be substantially complemental to the contoured or attaching face of the wedge heel, the block being provided with means on its upper face to prevent '5 relative movement of the heel and block laterally or rearwardly.

In another aspect the invention comprises a method of attaching the prepared sole and heel unit to the shoe which consists in cement-atl0 taching the forepart of the sole to the forepart of the shoe and attaching the wedge heel to the shoe by inside nailing.

Practice of the described method results in a novel wedge heel shoe in which the wedge heel 15 is attached to the shoe with driven fastenings such as heel nails driven through the shoe into the heel, and in which the outsole is attached to the wedge heel throughout its shank-and-heel portion by driven fastenings, for example pegs or slugs, and the forepart of the sole is cementattached to the forepart of the shoe bottom.

In the drawings, f

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a full-length sole assembled with a wedge heel upon a supporting block;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the supporting block;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a modified form of supporting block;

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 1 presented to the operating instrumentalities of a slugging machine;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing theparts after the slugging operation has been performed; and

Fig. 6 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a completed shoe.

In the manufacture of shoes according to the present invention, wedge heels H), as shown in 40 Fig. 1, are provided, each heel having a flat face for engagement with a full-length outsole l2, the heel extending from substantially the ball line of the outsole to its rear end and being shaped a in plan like this portion of the outsole. The attaching face of the wedge heel is preferably contoured longitudinally and transversely to complement substantially the shape of the shankand-heel portion of the bottom of the shoe to 59 which it is to be attached. The surface of the heel which is exposed in the finished shoe, that is, the sides" of the heel, is usually covered with a strip of upper leather M (Fig. 6) the marginal portions of which are carried over the fiat botll heel, apparatus such as that shown in Figs. 2

and 3 is provided which consists of a block 20 which may be of cast aluminum or some other light material, the block having a surface 22 which is preferably contoured both longitudinally and transversely to be complemental to the contoured attaching face l8 of the wedge heel ill. The face 24 of the block opposite the contoured face 22 is flat and the block is formed with one end portion thicker than the other so that when the wedge heel l0 isplaced upon the block with its contoured attaching face against the surface 22, the flat face of the heel and the surface 24 of the block will be substantially parallel, as shown in Fig. 1. To prevent lateral or longitudinal movement of the heel ID with respect to the block 20, the block may be provided with a rim 26 within which the wedge heel fits.

As an alternative, the block 20 may be provided with spurs 28 on its contoured face, as shown in Fig. 3, instead of the peripheral rim and, if desired, at the heel end of the block a lip 30 may be provided which will positively prevent rearward movement of the heel with respect to the block 20. The wedge heel l0 may be readily located with respect to the .block 20, shown in Fig. 3, by engaging one end of the heel with the lip 30 andpressing it down upon the spurs 28.

The workman, after assembling the wedge heel i0 upon the block 20 of the form shown in Fig. 2 or Fig. 3, applies the full-length sole l2 thereto, as shown in Fig. 1, and presents these assembled parts in his hands to .the operating instrumentalities of a fastening-inserting machine such as the slugging machine, as shown in Fig. 4. It will here be seen that the face 24 of the block 20 is parallel to the outer surface of the sole l2 and that the surface 24 may be supported on a jack post 32 of .the fastening-inserting machine which presses the sole against a presser plate or abutment 34 and drivesslugs or pegs 38, cut from a wire or fiber fastening material 38, into holes made by an awl 40. A machine which may be used for this purpose is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 786,190, granted 7 March 28, 1905, upon application of L. A. Casgrain. In Fig. the work is shown after the slugs or pegs 36 have been inserted to form a single bottom unit comprising the sole I2 and the wedge heel Ill. The forepart of the sole I 2 has its flesh face prepared for cement attachment toa shoe by .the usual roughing and cementing operations. After activation of the cement upon the forepart of the sole, the sole-and-heel unit is properly located with respect to a shoe having an upper 42 lasted over an insole 44, and the shoe and sole are subjected to pressure whereby the forepart of the sole I2 is permanently cement-attaiched to the shoe. After this operation the last is removed and the shank-and-heel portions of the insole 44 of the shoe are attached to the wedge heel III .by fastenings 46 driven through the insole into the wedge heel on the inside of the shoe. As illustrated in Fig. 6, two gangs of nails 46 spaced longitudinally of the shoe have been inserted .through the insole r44 into the wedge heel II by means, for example, of a wood heel nailing machine such as that disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,033,158, granted March 10, 1936, upon application of John Standish.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters'Pa ent of the United States is:

1. A bottom unit for shoe comprising a fulllength sole and a wedge heel attached to the inner face of the sole by driven fastenings extending 5 through the sole about the periphery thereof and into but not through the wedge heel, the forepart of said inner face being prepared for cement attachment to a shoe bottom.

2. .A bottom unit for shoes comprising a fulllength outsole and a wedge heel attached to the flesh face of the sole by pegs extending through the sole and into but not through the wedge heel, the peripheral portion of the flesh face of the forepart of the sole being roughened and cemented to adapt it for cement attachment to the forepart of a shoe.

3. A bottom unit for shoes comprising a fulllength outsole and a wedge heel attached to the inner face of the sole by pegs located in the peripheral marginal portion of the sole and extending through the sole and into the wedge heel, the peripheral portion of the inner face of said sole being roughened and coated with cement to prepare it for cement attachment to the forepart of a shoe bottom.

4. That improvement in methods of forming bottom units which comprises assembling a fulllength sole on the flat surface of a wedge heel,

supporting the assembled wedge heel and sole on a block having a surface parallel with the sole, engaging said surface with the horn of a slugging machine, and attaching a sole to the wedge heel by driving fastenings through the sole into the wedge heel.

5. That improvement in methods of forming bottom units for shoes which comprises assembling a full-length sole on the flat surface of a wedge heel, supporting the assembled wedge heel and sole on a block having a surface parallel with the sole, and attaching the sole to the wedge heelby .driving pegs through the sole into the wedge heel. v

-6. That improvement-in methods of making shoes which comprises forming a shoe bottom unit, by attaching a wedge heel to the upper surface of a full-length sole, preparing a lasted shoe, cement-attaching the forepart of the sole unit to the forepart of the shoe, and securing the wedge heel to the shank-and-heel portion of the shoe 50 by inside nailing.

'1. A device for attaching wedge heels to soles comprising a block having the contour of the shank-and-heel portion of a shoe sole, a flat surface on one side and on the opposite side a sur- 515 face contoured to fit the attaching face of a wedge heel, and means on the block to locate the wedge heel with respect thereto.

8. A device for attaching wedge heels to soles comprising a blockofpast aluminum having the contour of the shank-.and-heel portion of a shoe sole, a flat surface on one side and on the opposite side a surface contoured to fit the attaching face of a wedge heel, means being provided on the block to locate the wedge heel with respect 05 thereto.

9. A device for attaching wedge heels t0 soles comprising'a block having the contour of the shank-and-heel portion of a shoe sole, 9. fiat surface on one side and on the opposite side a surface complemental to the attaching face of a wedge heel, and a lug on the block to prevent rearward movement of the wedge heel with respect to the block.

10. A device for attaching wedge heels to soles comprising a. block, a flat surface on one side of the block, the opposite surface being snaped complemental to the attaching face of a wedge heel, and a rim about the contoured face of the block to prevent relative lateral and longitudinal rearward movement of the block and heel.

11. A device for attaching wood heels to soles comprising a block having on one side a surface complemental to the attaching face of a wedge heel and on the other side ,a flat surface parallel to the tread face of a wedge heel mounted on the block, a lug on the block to prevent rearward movement of the wedge heel with respect to the block, and spurs on the block to engage the heel and prevent movement thereof with respect to the block,

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises providing a bottom unit comprising a full-length sole having a wedge heel attached to its inner face. preparing a shoe having an upper lasted over an insole, cement attaching the forepart of the bottom unit to the forepart of the shoe, and utilizing a. wood heel attacl.ing machine to secure the wedge heel to the shank-and-heel portion of the insole and to the shoe.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises providing a bottom unit comprising a full-length sole having a wedge heel attached to its inner face, preparing a shoe having an upper lasted over an insole, cementattaching the forepart of the bottom unit to the forepart of the shoe, and securing a wedge heel to the shank-and-heel portion of the insole by driving nails from the inside of the shoe through the insole into the wedge heel.

14. A shoe comprising an insole, a full-length outsole, a wedge heel attached to the inner face of the outsole, and an upper lasted over the insole, said outsole being cement-attached to the forepart of the shoe and said wedge heel being attached to the shank-and-heel portion of the insole by fastenings driven from the inside of the-20 shoe through the insole into the wedge .heel.

l-ELIX ROSENBAUM.