US2222120A

US2222120A - Coat shoulder form and method of attaching shoulder portions of linings to a coat

Info

Publication number: US2222120A
Application number: US263713A
Authority: US
Inventors: Purves Charles
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1939-03-23
Filing date: 1939-03-23
Publication date: 1940-11-19
Anticipated expiration: 1957-11-19

Description

Nov. 19, 1940. puRvEs 2,222,120

COAT SHOULDER FORM AND METHOD OF ATTACHING SHOULDER PORTIONS OF LININGS TO A COAT Filed March 23, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.

' I -%z'5 ATTORNEY.

Nov. 19, 1940. c. PURVES 2,222,120

COAT SHOULDER FORM AND METHOD OF ATTAGHING SHOULDER PORTIONS OF LININGS TO A COAT Filed March 23, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 1's ATTORNEY.

Nov. 19,, 1940. c pu v s 2,222,120

COAT SHOULDER FORM AND METHOD OF ATTACHING SHOULDER PORTIONS 0F LININGS TO A COAT Filed March 23, 1959 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 'INVENTOR.

COAT SHOULDER FdRM AND METHOD OF ATTACHING SHOULDER PORTIONS OF LININGS TO A COAT Filed Marqh 25, 1939 6 Sheets$heet 4:

Nov 19, 1940. c PuRvEs 2,222,120-

@wgeamraes 44:45 A'ITORNEY.

v c. 'PURVES 2,222,120 SHOULDER FORM AND METHOD OF ATTACHING OULDER Nov. 19, 1940.

PORTIONS 0F LININGS TO A COAT Filed March 23, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. CfiQarksfuruaa %'zi$ ATTORNEY.

Nov. 19, 1940. C PURVES 2,222,120 I COAT SHOULDER FORM AND METHOD OF ATTACHING SHOULDER PORTIONS OF LININGS TO A COAT Filed March 23, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Patented Nov. 19, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Charles Purves, Rochester, N. Y.

Application March 23, 1939, Serial No. 263,713

10 Claims.

This invention relates to a coat shoulder form and method of attaching shoulder lining portions to a coat in such a way as to assure the coat fitting smoothly around and over the shoulder,

shoulder blade, upper arm, and front part of the body just below the shoulder and adjacent the arm pit, affording sufficient fullness in the lining at these portions to prevent drawing, wrinkling or stretching of the outer fabric of the garment particularly along the shoulder seam and over the shoulder between the neck portion and the sleeve of the garment.

The customary practice in making a coat has been for the operator to hold on one hand the assembled coat front and back, with the lining portions attached to the lower parts of the coat body, and the lining portions underneath against the operators hand and the outer coat fabric on top, manipulating the underneath lining portions as best he can, until they are properly positioned with respect to the outer fabric, and at the same time working or smoothing the outer fabric until it is thought to be properly located, and then baste these parts together by stitches extending first through the outer fabric and thence through the lining portions, but this process frequently results in undue stretching of the lining portions or insuflicient lining material for a given extent of the outer fabric, so that when the garment is completed, the stretched lining pulls the outer fabric, causing it to wrinkle and preventing its conforming smoothly to the shoulder of the wearer.

The principal objective of the invention is to overcome these defects in the making of a coat, and to enable manufacturing coats economically and speedily, in such manner that the outer fabric fits smoothly and closely over the shoulder, conforming to the depression at the forepart of the shoulder, and without binding or pulling over the shoulder blade or around the upper portion of the body adjacent to the arm, and without lack of proper fullness in the lining portions extending over the shoulder.

A further purpose is to accomplish these ends with a suitable shoulder form, generally convex from front to back, by positioning the coat structure over the form with the inside out, that is, with the outer fabric of the coat resting against and conforming closely to the form and with the lining materials on top or exposed during the basting operation, which is accomplished after the lining portions have been laid over the shoulder form and outer fabric in a natural way, by basting first through the superposed lining por tions and thence through the outer fabric located therebeneath.

By proceeding in this fashion, the lining materials being convexly curved over the outer fabric and form while the outer fabric is smoothly draped over the shoulder form, the lining materials follow a somewhat larger curve than the outer fabric, and this eliminates any possibility of the lining being unduly stretched or having insufficient fullness with relation to the outer fabric, and also makes it possible to secure the lining materials to the outer fabric along lines adjacent to the neck portion, the arm hole, and along the shoulder seam, leaving the lining otherwise unattached and free so that suitable fullness and proper fit of the outer fabric is assured.

It is also a purpose of the invention to afford a coat shoulder form having the necessary contours to conform to an average shoulder and to shape coats of different sizes, with such exaggerations at suitable points to take care of the particular areas where tightness or wrinkling frequently occurs after the lining is secured to the coat fabric.

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a practical mechanism that enables an operator to secure the lining and outer fabric portions of a coat together in the manner indicated, quickly and efiiciently, permitting either elevating, lowering, or turning the form with the garment thereon while holding it with sunficient firmness in any selected position to prevent accidental movement and permit the required operations by the garment maker.

To these and other ends, the invention consists in the procedure, construction, and arrangement of parts that will appear from the following description when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, the novel features being pointed out in the claims at the end of the specification.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a front elevation showing one successful embodiment of a shoulder form constituting the invention, with a coat draped and clamped thereon in position to have the shoulder lining portions basted to the outer fabric, and illustrating the front lining portion loose from the upper part of the coat front before being positioned over the latter for basting, the form being illustrated in its lowermost position;

Fig. 2 is a detail perspective of a suitable spring clamp employed for holding a coat on the form;

Fig, 3 is a side elevation similar to Fig. 1, showing the coat structure on the form and with the shoulder portions of the linings loose and unattached previously to being laid over the outer fabric and basted thereto;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, with the lower parts broken away, and showing the shoulder lining portions after being basted to the outer fabric of the coat;

Fig. 5 is a View similar to Fig. 1 after the shoulder lining portions are basted to the outer fabric of the coat;

Fig. 6 is a front view of the coat after the basting operations are completed, the coat appearing right side out, with the lining on the inside;

Fig. 7 is a front view of the shoulder form and supporting pedestal:

Fig. 8 is an end view of the same;

Fig. 9 is an end View of the shoulder form, with the pedestal broken away, looking in the opposite direction from Fig. 8, and showing the adjustable extension in its uppermost position;

Fig. 10 is a similar view showing the adjustable eXtension in its lowermost position;

Fig. 11 is a vertical sectional view of the shoulder form, looking in the direction indicated on the line II-II of Fig. 7;

Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the shoulder form;

Fig. 13 is a horizontal sectional view of the shoulder form, looking in the direction indicated on the line I3-I3 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 14 is a rear elevation of the shoulder form, with the adjustable extension in lowermost position;

Fig. 15 is a horizontal sectional view through the lower part .of the pedestal;

Fig. 16 is a vertical sectional view taken centrally of the pedestal, with the pillar in uppermost position;

Fig. 1'7 is a horizontal sectional view on the line I'I'--I'I of Fig. 16;

Fig. 18 is a horizontal sectional view on the line I8I8 of Fig. 16, and

Fig. 19 is an enlarged vertical sectional View taken centrally of the pedestal, showing the nonmetallic bearings for the vertically and rotatably adjustable form supporting pillar.

Referring more particularly to the drawings in which like reference numerals refer to the same parts throughout the several views, the shoulder form is of such a contour as to fit properly within and shape one shoulder portion of a coat while the other shoulder portion is maintained and supported loosely over a suitable extension or arm, it being understood that there will be provided both right and left forms which are used successively in constructing a garment, one form being employed in shaping and basting lining portions to the shoulder portion on one side of the garment and the other form being employed for shaping and basting lining portions to the shoulder portion on the other side of the garment.

Referring to Figs. 7 to 14 inclusive, which disclose the construction of the form itself, the invention includes a shoulder form including a body portion I, see Figs. 8 and 13, that is of a generally rectangular shape in cross-section, and that is generally of convex curvature over the top from front to back, as indicated at 2 in Figs. 8 and 11, while 3 designates the upwardly extending neck portion of the form at one end, termihating in the flat vertical wall 4 for a purpose that will appear presently.

The top surface of the body portion of the form is gradually curved along a slightly concave line as indicated at 5, from the neck portion 3 to the outer end of the form, said outer end having a vertically extending rounded protuberance indicated at 6 at the upper part of the outer end of the form, corresponding to the forwardly projecting extremity of the shoulder bone, and the front part of the form is provided with a transversely concaved depression or dished portion adjacent to said protuberance 6, as indicated at I, said concave depression I corresponding to the hollow portion generally found in the front of the shoulder of the human body between the arm and neck, and located slightly inwardly of the forwardly projecting shoulder bone represented by the vertical protuberance 6.

Immediately below the concave depression or dished portion I, the form on the front side is provided with a convex portion 8 corresponding to the enlargement usually found in the human body adjacent to the arm pit and at the outer limit of the breast, while 9 designates a convexly rounded enlargement at the rear of the form simulating the shoulder blade.

The several curved portions 6, I, 8 and 9 are sufficiently exaggerated in their relation to the other curves of the form so that when the outer fabric of the coat is laid over these portions smoothly and closely and the lining attached thereto, ample fullness will be afforded in the outer fabric of the garment, and it will not be drawn or stretched by its attachment to the lining, particularly over the shoulder blade, the front portion of the shoulder bone, the hollow in the front of the shoulder, and the enlargement beneath. These are the points where difficulty is frequently experienced in properly fitting a garment, and busheling is often required in order to remove the effects caused by the improper attachment of the lining materials, all of which is overcome by a shoulder form shaped as described above when the lining materials are attached in the manner that will be presently set forth.

During the supporting of one shoulder portion of a coat on the form, the opposite shoulder must be maintained in suitable and proper position to permit draping the first mentioned shoulder portion properly over the form, and this is accomplished by the following construction.

Adjacent to the aforementioned vertical flat surface 4 at one end of the form, the back wall of the form is vertically inclined as indicated at II, and. mounted on the wall 4 is a lateral extension or arm I2, the back surface I3 of which is a continuation of the back surface of the body portion of the form and is vertically inclined to coincide with the aforementioned surface II. The extension I2 is vertically adjustable along a line parallel to said surface II, and to effect this, the extension or projecting portion I2 is carried by a suitable bracket I4 having a slot I5 which slidably engages a fixed metal guide I6 carried by the wall 4 and acting to limit the upward or downward adjustment of the extension I2.

The guide member I6 also carries a post I! which is engaged by a wing nut it that is operated to secure the extension I2 in its adjusted position, depending upon the size of the garment that is being operated upon. The uppermost position of the extension is illustrated in Fig. 9 suitable for the largest size coat, while the lowe most position is illustrated in Fig. 10, for operation on a minimum size coat. The body portion of the form and the extension I2 may be constructed of wood, papier-mach, or any other suitable material, and I have found that wood is quite satisfactory for the purpose.

The garment is clamped on the form, after being properly positioned, by means of a U-shaped spring clamp shown in Fig. 2; and including a central portion l9 that extends across the end or vertical wall of the form and spring arms 20 that.

embrace the front and back surfaces of the body portion and hold the front and back of the garment firmly against the form to permit the operator to execute the necessary basting operations without having to manipulate or pay attention to the position of the garment while so doing. Fig. 1 shows a garment positioned on the form, the lateral extension or arm portion l2 being illustrated as adjusted beneath its extreme uppermost position so as properly to support the loose and unshaped shoulder portion of the garment while the shoulder portion operated on is properly positioned over the form.

The operation constituting a part of the subject matter of this invention is performed on a coat structure consisting of the coat front and back portions secured together with the sleeves, the neck portion, facings, and lining portions being attached to the outer fabric of the coat but with the lining portions unattached at the shoulder portions of the garment and around the arm hole, and it is the function of the shoulder form just described to support the coat so as to enable the operator to baste the shoulder lining portions to the outer fabric of the garment in a manner that will save time and afford a better fitting garment than with the processes heretofore practiced.

The operator proceeds by first turning the garment inside out so that the outer fabric is on the inside and the lining portions on the outside during the basting operation referred to. With the coat thus reversed and the sleeve on the inside, the shoulder portion to be operated on is laid over the form in the manner shown in Figs. 1 and 2, where M designates the reversed outer fabric of the garment, designates the sleeve extending inside, 23 designates the front lining and canvas portion having attached thereto a

shoulder pad

24, and 25 designates the yoke lining portion, these portions being shown loose and hanging down at the front and back of the garment in the position they assume before being attached.

The operator first positions the outer fabric 2! so that it lies smoothly and properly over the form with the shoulder seam 26 located approximately at the center of the top of the form, see Fig. 3, and the sleeve seam 21 just inside the out er end of the form, see Fig. 1, the extension l2 being adjusted vertically to permit this positioning of the parts of the garment just referred to and being then clamped in the desired position, which depends upon the size of the garment and the relation between the sleeve seam Z6 and the neck portion of the form.

After the shoulder portion to be operated upon has been thus properly positioned and the spring arms 20 of the clamp are engaged with the body of the garment as shown in Fig. l. to hold it smoothly overthe form, but without stretching of any portion of the outer fabric, the lining portions are laid up over the outer fabric, be-

' ing smoothed over the front and back portions to follow the curves thereof, and the operator then bastes the lining portions to the outer fabric, first adjacent to the neck portion along the line 28, see Fig. 4, then along the shoulder seam as indicated at 29, and then from below upward ly around the arm hole along the sleeve seam, as indicated at 30.

In this fashion, the lining has ample fullness at all portions over the shoulder, between the neck portion and the sleeve of the garment, over the shoulder blades, and around the arm hole, so that there is no opportunity for the lining material to be unduly stretched with relation to the outer fabric at any point and thereby cause the outer fabric to wrinkle or draw. Since the lining material while being basted lies above the fabric of the garment along and over a generally convex curve from front to back, ample fullness in the lining is assured, and by positioning the outer fabric of the garment over the shoulder form without stretching it, there is no likelihood of the outer fabric being stretched along the usually bias shoulder seam 25, as frequently happens in the making of a coat where the outer fabric and lining are basted together while the operator holds the shoulder portions in one hand and works or stretches the outer fabric, in endeavoring to smooth it, from the shoulder portion toward the sleeve seam.

It is desirable that the operator shall be able to elevate, lower, or turn the form with the coat draped thereover readily, to any desired position to facilitate the basting operations, and in order to accomplish this, the form is mounted upon a pillar 35, see Fig. 19, that is vertically and rotat-- ably adjustable within a suitable pedestal, including a base 36 and a vertical cylindrical housing 31. Preferably the body portion of the form has fixedly secured to its lower end a post it which is adjustably positionable within a collar 39 by means of the adjusting screw. iii, and the collar 39 is fixed to the upper end of the aforementioned pillar 35 which is vertically movable within the pedestal.

To accomplish this, the lower end of the: pillar 35 carries a swiveled connection M that is plyotally connected by a link 42 with a normally horizontal arm 43, which is carried by the rock shaft 44 pivotally mounted on the base it and also provided with an operating treadle 65 which has a stop 46 that limits its downward movement by engagement with the floor or supporting surface.

The normal upwardly inclined position of the treadle is shown in Fig. '7, with the shoulder form in its lowermost position, and the operator, by depressing the treadle th more or less, elevates the arm 43 from its horizontal position, likewise the link 42, and causes an upward movement of the pillar 35 and the shoulder form. The particular lever arrangement and linkage shown enables the operator by a slight movement of the operating treadle to obtain a substantial upand-down movement of the shoulder form suff1- ciently for the necessary vertical adjustments, and this is facilitated by the provision of counterbalancing means consisting of a spring ll connected at its upper end to a fixed post it and at its lower end to a pin 49 carried by the swivel connection M. The spring M has a tendency to elevate the pillar 35 and the shoulder form, thus counterbalancing the weight of the form so that very little power or effort is required by the operator for depressing the treadle 45 to elevate the form to the desired position and to hold it in such adjusted position.

The pillar 35 slides vertically within a sleeve 5F material, the pillar 35 being held against rotation relatively to the sleeve 5! by means" of a suitable key, which in turn is permanently attached to the collar 53 to which is secured the cap or cover 54. The parts just described, including the pillar and the shoulder form carried thereby, are rotatable and held frictionally in any desired position to which the operator may turn the form. To accomplish this, the collar 53 is engaged by two shoes 55 pivoted at 5'6 to the support 51 mounted within the housing 31, the shoes 55 being provided with frictional engaging surfaces 53 of suitable fibrous material that engage the outer surface of the collar 53. The shoes 55 are actuated toward the collar by means of springs 59 connecting the shoes, and actuating them with sufficient pressure to hold the pillar against accidental turning but permitting the operator to rotate it when needed with little effort. By the provision of the fiber sleeve 5! and the fiber surfaces 53 on the shoes, there are no moving metal parts in contact with each other, and it is unnecessary to provide lubrication for any part of the bearing. A fiber disk 60 is also provided between the stationary support ST and the rotating collar 53.

With this construction, the operator is enabled to hold the form in any position of vertical adjustment by means of the treadle t5 and can turn it to any desired position by grasping and moving it in either direction of rotation, the spring actuated shoes 55 serving to hold it in adjusted position against accidental displacement.

While the invention has been described with reference to a certain specific structural embodiment, it is not confined to the precise details or steps in the method herein set forth, and this application is intended to cover any modifications or departures that may come within the intent of the invention or-thescope of the following claims.

I claim 1. The method of attaching shoulder lining portions to a coat, Which consists in clamping one shoulder portion of a coat body reversely on a form with the outer fabric of the coat body located against the form, said form simulating a single shoulder and the adjacent neck, chest and back portions with exaggerated convex curvatures at the shoulder blade portion and at the forward part of the shoulder bone portion, laying the loose lining portions smoothly over the outer fabric and basting said parts together across the shoulder and around the armhole by stitching first through the outwardly positioned lining portions and thence through the inwardly positioned coat fabric while the latter is clamped on the form,

2. The method of attaching shoulder lining portions to a coat, which consists in clamping one shoulder portion of the outer fabric of a coat body reversely against a generally convex form simulating a single shoulder and the adjacent neck, chest and back portions, laying the loose lining portions smoothly over the outer fabric while the latter is clamped on the form, and basting the lining portions while in said superposed position to the clamped outer coat fabric across the shoulder portion and around the arm hole.

3. The combination with a coat form simulating a single shoulder and the adjacent neck, chest, and back portions, said form being over the shoulder blade portion and at the front part of the shoulder bone portion and adapted to receive one shoulder portion of a coat body, and

having a vertically inclined back surface adjacent to said neck portion, of an extension located at the inner end of the form and at the back thereof, said extension having a back surface forming a continuation of said first mentioned vertically inclined back surface for supporting the other shoulder portion of a coat body, and means for adjusting said extension vertically along the lines of said inclined back surfaces to maintain said other shoulder portion of a coat body while the first mentioned shoulder portion is clamped over the form.

4. The combination with a coat shoulder form that is generally convex from front to back and adapted to receive and shape one shoulder of a coat, of supporting means therefor comprising a pedestal, a pillar vertically and rotatably mounted in the pedestal, a treadle operated lever at the bottom of the pedestal, a link connecting said lever with the aforesaid pillar for elevating it, and a counterbalancing spring connected at one end to said pillar and at its other end to a stationary part of the pedestal and exerting a tendency to overcome the weight of the form on the pillar.

5. The combination with a coat shoulder form that is generally convex from front to back and adapted to receive and shape one shoulder of a coat, of supporting means therefor comprising a pedestal, a pillar vertically and rotatably mounted in the pedestal, a fiber sleeve within which the pillar is vertically adjustable, and spring actuated fiber bearing portions within which the pillar is rotatably adjustable.

6. The combination with a coat shoulder form that is generally convex from front to back and adapted to receive and shape one shoulder of a coat, of supporting means therefor comprising a pedestal, a pillar vertically and rotatably mounted in the pedestal, a fiber sleeve within which the pillar is keyed for vertical movement, a ring to which the said sleeve is attached, a pair of spring actuated shoes pivoted within the pedestal, and fiber bearing portions carried by said shoes and engaging the aforementioned ring.

7. The combination with a coat shoulder form that is generally convex from front to back and adapted to receive one shoulder portion of a coat body, of operating means therefor comprising a pedestal, a pillar vertically mounted in the pedestal, a horizontal rock shaft at one side of the pedestal beneath the pillar, a normally horizontal arm fixed to said rock shaft and extending beneath the pillar to the other side thereof, a normally upwardly inclined treadle fixed to said rock shaft, and an upwardly extending link connecting the opposite end of the arm and the pillar.

8. The combination with a coat shoulder form that is generally convex from front to back and adapted to receive one shoulder portion of a coat body, of operating means therefor comprising a pedestal, a pillar vertically mounted in the pedestal, a swivel connection permitting rotation of said pillar, a horizontal rock shaft at one side of the pedestal beneath the pillar, a normally horizontal arm fixed to said rock shaft and extending beneath the pillar to the other side thereof, a normally upwardly inclined treadle fixed to said rock shaft, and an upwardly extending link connecting the opposite end of said arm with said swivel connection.

9. A coat form for attaching shoulder lining portions to a coat comprising a single shoulder portion and the adjacent neck, chest and back portions, said form being convex from front to back and having a vertically extending rounded protuberance of vertical convexity located at the upper front portion of its outer end, a vertically extending concave depression adjacent to said protuberance and a convex shoulder blade portion.

10. A coat form for attaching shoulder lining portions to a coat comprising a single shoulder portion and the adjacent neck, chest, and back portions, said form being convex from front to back and having a vertically extending rounded protuberance of vertical convexity located at the upper front portion of its outer end, a vertically extending concave depression adjacent to said protuberance, a convex enlargement immediately beneath said depression and a convex enlargement at the shoulder blade portion.

CHARLES PURVES.