US2218006A

US2218006A - Moccasin manufacture

Info

Publication number: US2218006A
Application number: US269876A
Authority: US
Inventors: Pinchos E Medwed
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1939-04-25
Filing date: 1939-04-25
Publication date: 1940-10-15
Anticipated expiration: 1957-10-15

Description

Oct. 15. 1940. I P E, MEDWED 2,218,006

MOCCAS IN MANUFACTURE Filed April 25, 1959 mame-f" Patented Oct. 15, 1940 UNITED STATES MOCCASIN MANUFACTURE Pinchcs E. Medwed, Bangor, Maine Application April 25,

1 Claim.

This invention relates to moccasin manufacture and more particularly to a moccasin constructed or assembled to receive an outsole in stitched, cemented, or otherwise suitably secured relationship to the sole area of the moccasin assembly.

The novelty of the moccasin hereof resides more especially in its fore-section, which consists of upper leather, as usual, and which encompasses the forepart of the foot, including the forepart of the foot sole, with its esh side presented next to the foot.` y The fore-section of the moccasin hereof comprises a three-piece assembly, namely, a substantially U-shaped-piece of a width to afford upstanding or exposed moccasin Walls and lower marginal portions turned inwardly as sole portions, a sole-piece abutting the lower marginal edges of the U-shaped-piece and stitched thereto, excepting at the bend or toe portion of the U-shaped-piece, whereat the sole-piece assumes the form of a sole-toe-portion having a shape and size substantially corresponding to the entire sole-toe-area of the moccasin, and a tongue-piece stitched to the upper marginal portions of the U-shaped-piece, the lower marginal portions of the U-shaped-piece at the bend or toe portion thereof being overlasted and secured, as by cement, to the toe portion of the sole-piece. An important advantage of the fore-section assembly hereof is that it enables the tongue-piece first to be stitched by an ordinary machine to the U-shaped-piece, whereupon the sole-piece may be readily stitched in abutting relationship to the lower marginal edges of the U-shaped-piece, as by stitches Zig-sagging between the abutting edge portions of such two pieces, excepting at the bend of the U-shaped-piece. The fore-section may their be stitched at its rear edges to the usual rear-section, upper-leather, moccasin assembly to constitute a moccasin assembly that can be placed upon a last, on which the lower marginal portions of the U-shaped-piece at the bend or toe portion thereof is capable of being readily overlasted and cemented to the toe portion of the sole-piece, which is preferably skived at its external marginal area to improve the smoothness and tenacity of cementation or bond with the overlasted marginal portion of the U-shaped piece. Finally, an outsole can readily be stitched, cemented, or otherwise secured to the sole area of the completed moccasin assembly.

With the foregoing and other features and objects in View, the present invention will now be described in further detail with particular reference to the accompanying drawing, wherein,

1939, Serial No. 269,876

Figs. 1, 2, and 3 show in perspective the solepiece, the U-shaped-piece, and the tongue-piece, respectively, for the fore-section assembly.

Fig. 4 similarly depicts the U-shaped-piece and tongue-piece after they havel been stitched together.

Fig. 5 similarly depicts the fore-section assembly comprising the sole-piece and tongue-piece stitched to the U-shaped-piece, the assembly being in inverted position.

Fig. 6 is a perspective View of a conventional rear-section, upper leather, moccasin assembly ready for stitching to the fore-section assembly preparatory to lasting.

Fig. '7 is a composite sectional and side-elevational View of the moccasin assembly on a last.

Fig. 8 is a plan View of the forepart of the lasted moccasin assembly preparatory to cementing the lower marginal portion of the U-shaped-piece in overlasted relationship to the toe portion of the sole-piece.

Fig. 9l is a similar view but showing the lower marginal portion of the U-shaped-piece already overlasted and cemented yto the toe portion of the sole-piece.

Fig. lOi represents a fragmentary section through the toe portion of the moccasin assembly on the line Ill-Ill of Fig. 9.

Fig. 11 is a similar section but showing an outsole stitched to the moccasin assembly.

A U-shaped-piece Ill to enter into the foresection assembly is shown in Fig. 2 in inverted position and as having lower marginal portions notched, as at Il, to define its lower marginal bend or toe portion I2 from its lower side edges or marginal portions I3; To the upper marginal portions I4 of the U-shaped piece I0 may be easily stitched by an ordinary shoe-upper stitching machine the tongue-piece I5 o f Fig. 3 to form the two-piece structure illustrated in Fig. 4, which has a line of stitches I6 passing through the substantially complementary or mating edge portions of its two piecesI I 0 and I5. To the inturned lower marginal portions I3 of the piece I 0 may then be stitched, as illustrated in Fig. 5, the side marginal portions I 'I of a sole-piece I8 (shown in Fig. 1) so that the corresponding margins or edges of the two pieces ID and I8 lie in substantially abutting relationship. As indicated in Fig. 5, this is done by a line of stitches that pursues a zig-zagging course between each pair of abutting edge portions I3 and II.

The sole-piece I8 is left unstitched to the U- shaped-piece I0 at the bend or toe-portion of such latter piece, whereat the sole-piece assumes the form of an enlarged sole-toe-portion I8a of a shape and size substantially corresponding to the entire sole-toe-area of the moccasin to be created. Such sole-toe-portion I8a is preferably skived at its external marginal zone I8b over which is to be lasted and to which is to be cemented the lower marginal portion I2 of the U- shaped-piece at its bend or toe-portion. It might be noted that the three-fore-section pieces of Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are assembled into the structure of Fig. 5 with their flesh side on the inside of such structure.

To the fore-section assembly or structure of Fig.`

5 may then be stitched a usual rear-section, upper-leather moccasin assembly, which, as appears in Fig. 6, may comprise rear-section pieces stitched together so that their skin side is on the inside. The back seam of the assembly may be reinforced by a strap-piece 2I and the upper margins thereof may be reinforced by straps 22 continuing substantially beyond the front edges 23 of the pieces 20 as extensions 22a. Suitable eyelets 24, through which the moccasin-tightening laces may be strung, as customarily, are shown as having been driven through and fixed to the upper margin portions of the pieces 2U and their reinforcing straps 22. The stitchingtogether of the two moccasin sections prior to their lasting may be accomplished, as by two lines of stitches 25, which are shown in Figs. 7 and 8 as uniting the front edge portions 23 of the rear-section, moccasin assembly of Fig. 6 in overlapping relationship to the rear edge portions 26 of the fore-section, moccasin assembly shown in Fig. 5. Again, such line of stitches 2l as serves to secure each strap 22 to each rear-section-assembly pieces 20 may be continued, as at 21a, so as to pass through the strap extensions 22a and the upper marginal portions of the U-shaped- 4m piece I0 of the fore-section, as shown in Fig. '7.

i posit or coating 28 of appropriate thickness over the skived marginal zone I8b of the sole-piece I8 and the so-called wiper elements of the bedlasting machine may then be put into operation to pull andV wipe the lower marginal portion I2 of the U-shaped-piece I0 tightly and smoothly over and into contact with the cement coating 28, which grips or cements the iiesh side of such overlasted portion I2 tenaciously to the skived marginal zone I 8b of the sole-piece I8, as shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

When the cement has set or dried adequately, an outsole may be suitably secured to the sole area of the moccasin assembly. As shown in Fig. 11, an outsole 29 may be secured to the moccasin assembly by two lines of stitches 30, which may pass through the marginal portion of the sole 29 and the marginal portions of the moccasin sole all the way around the moccasin. It is possible thus to stitch the outsole to the moccasin assembly after the latter has been removed from the last by a McKay stitching machine or the like. Of course, prior to such stitching, the outsole may be temporarily secured by two or more clincher tacks to the sole area of the moccasin assembly while the assembly is still on the last; and the temporary tacks may be pulled or removed after the outsole has been stitched in place. .If desired, a sock-liner (not shown) may be placed in the finished moccasin, for instance, one that extends from the heel area of the moccasin sole past the two lines of stitches shown in Fig. 8 as unitiing the fore-section and rearsection of the moccasin.

Changes or modifications are possible in the moccasin hereof without departing from the spirit or scope of invention as defined by the appended claim. It is to be understood that while the various parts for the moccasin proper preferably consist of suitable upper leather, such as calfskin or heifer-skin, yet it is possible to use articial or substitute leather materials for one or more such parts and that the expression upper leather` used above is meant to comprehend artincial or leather substitute materials as well as genuine leather.

I claim:

A method of moccasin-making, which comprises assembling a fore-section by first stitching a tongue-piece to the upper marginal portions of a substantially U-shaped-piece of a width to afford upstanding moccasin walls and lower marginal portions turned inwardly as sole portions, and then stitching a sole-piece in abutting relationship to the lower marginal edges of said substantially U-shaped-piece, excepting at the toe portion of said sole-piece; stitching to the resulting fore-section assembly a rear-section assembly; and lasting the resulting moccasin assembly by operations inclusive of the steps of pulling the lower marginal portions of said U- shaped pieces at the bend thereof over, and securing them to, the toe portion of said solepiece.

PINCHOS E. MEDWED.