US221508A - Improvement in machines for sewing sweat-linings into hats - Google Patents

Description

T. W. BRAGHER. Machine for Sewing Sweat-Linings into Hats.

No. 221,508. Patented Nov. 11,1879.

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N. PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D c.

UNITED STATES PATENT FFICE.

THOMAS w. BRAGHER, on NEW YonK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT lN MACHINES FOR SEWING SWEAT-LININGS INTO HATS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 221,508, dated November 11, 1879; application filed July 25, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS W. BRA CHER,

of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Machines for Sewing Sweat-Linin gs into Hats, which improvements are fully set forth in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 represents a side view of a machine embodying myimprovements. Fig.2 is a horizontal section of the same in the plane 0000, Fig. 1; and Fig. 3 is a front view of a portion thereof.

Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.

This invention consists in the combination, with an organized stitch-forming. mechanism, ofa curved plate for supportinga hat, upper and lower longitudinal gage-plates, G D, arranged parallel with each other, the former gage having a transverse groove, d, to guide the reedcovering and reed, and the latter gage having a lip, f, for guiding the .inner edge of the sweat-band, and a suitable hat-guide, whereby the hat is properly supported and guided, the reed-covering and sweat-band are sewed together, and the sweat-band is secured to the hat, as more fully hereinafter set forth also, in the combination, with an organized stitchforming mechanism, of a curved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat near its headopening, a suitable gage for guiding the'reed in a sweat-band and retaining the samein the proper relation to the hat while the sewing progresses, and a brim-guide, so that the reed and the hat are properly guided and the reed assumes its proper position near the edge of the head-opening without fail further, in the combination, with an organized SlZltCll-fOIllllll g mechanism, of a curved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat near its head-opening, a gage adapted to conduct a sweat-band to the sewing mechanism, and two rollers, one of which is adjustably mounted on the gage, while the other is secured to a rock-shaft and subjected to the action of a spring, so that when the hat is placed upon the curved plate its brim is compressed and guided between the two rollers, and by turning the rock-shaft against the action of its spring the brim of the hat is released 5 also, in the combination of the rock-shaft and the outer guide-roller carried by the same with the presser-slide and mechanism connecting the same with the rock-shaft, so that by raising the presser-foot the outer guide-roller is caused to swing out, and by dropping the presser-foot said outer guideroller is caused to swing in toward the inner guide-roller, as will be more particularly hereinafter described 5 further, in the combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a curved work-plate, of the upper and lower longitudinal gage-plates, the former having a groove for guiding the reed of a sweat-band, and the latter a lip for guiding the inner edge of a sweat-band, and a spring-impelled roller arranged on the under side of the lower gageplate and adapted to bear against the outer edge of the sweat-band to maintain the inner edge thereof against the lip of the lower gage, substantially as more fully hereinafter described.

In the drawings, the letter A designates a stitch-forming mechanism or sewing-machine of any suitable construction, and Bis a curved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat. In this plate is an opening or throat, a, through which passes the needle 02 during the operation of sewing, and another opening, b, through which extends the feed-dog. On the frame of the sewing-machine is secured a gage, O, which can be adjusted toward and from the needle,

and which is provided with a groove, d, adapted to catch over the reed of a sweat band, as shown in Fig. 1.1 The gage O is elastic, so that it presses the reed, together with its covering, down upon the plate B, and it is so adjusted that the reed-coverin g extends over the needle-throat a, while the reed lies close on the inside of said throat. When the reed and its covering are already con nected to the sweatband, the body of the sweat-band extends beneath the gage O but if it is desired to sew the reed-covering and the sweat-band together at the same operation whereby these parts are sewed to the hat, the sweat-band is placed in a gage, D, situated beneath the gage O, and provided with a lip, f, against which the front edge of the sweat-bandis pressed by the action of a spring-roller, g, which acts on the inner or rear edge of the sweat-band, and

which is adapted to adjust itself to the varying width of the sweat-band. (See Fig. 1.)

The crown of the hat to which the sweatband is to be sewed is passed over the curved supporting-plate B, so that the edge of the head-opening lies close to the groove d of the gage O, and over the 'reed-covering h and the outer edge of the sweat-band i, Fig. 1, and it is retained in this position by the presser-foot F, so that if the sewing mechanism is set in operation a row of stitches are formed through the crown of the hat, through the reed-coverin g, and through the sweat-band, nearits outer edge, and which unite the reed-covering and the sweat-band simultaneously with each other and with the hat. The recd-coverin g may, however, be sewed to the sweat-band by a separate operation, and then both together placed beneath the gage (.3 and sewed to the hat, as already explained.

By the action of the grooved in the gageC the reed is guided and retained in the proper relation toward the edge of the head-opening in the hat, which is of the greatest importance in order to produce a neat job.

On the upper surface of the gage C is formed a shoulder, j, which forms a guide for the edge of the head-opening in the hat; but, in order to guide the hat still better, I have provided a brim-guide, which consists of two rollers, k l, the inner roller, 7:, being mounted on a pin secured to a slide, m, which is adjusted on the gage O by means of a set-screw, 0, so that said roller can be set in line with or directly over the shoulderj of the gage U. The outer roller, 1, is mounted on an arm, p, extending from a rock-shaft, q, which has its bearings in a bracket, 1, that is firmly secured to the front of the frame of the sewing-machine. From this rock-shaft extends an arm, 3, to which is hitched a spring, 1, that has a tendency to throw the roller 1 in against the roller k, and to compress the brim of the hat between the two rollers, so that a secure guide for the hat is obtained, and when the sweatband has been sewed to the hat the reed occupies its proper position on the edge of the head-opening of the hat.

The arm .9 connects by a suitable link, 24, with the presscr-slide 11, so that by raising the presser-slide the rollerI is caused to swing outward away from the roller Ir, and by lowering the presserslide the roller 1 is permitted to follow the action of the spring t, and to swing in toward the roller k.

By these means the operation of introducing a hat into the sewing-machine and of removing the same from the sewing-machine is materially facilitated.

I am aware that various sewing-machines have been constructed for sewing sweat-bands into hats, and I do not, therefore, claim such as my invention.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of a curved plate for supporting a hat, upper and lower longitudinal gage-plates, (J D, arranged parallel with each other, the former gage having a transverse groove, 01, to guide the reed-covering and reed, and the latter gage having a lip, f, for guiding the inner edge of the sweatband, and a suitable hat-guide, substantially as described, whereby the hat is properly supported and guided, the reed-covering and sweat-baud are sewed together, and the sweatband is sewed to the hat, as set forth.

2. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of a curved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat nearits head-opening, a suitable gage for guiding the reed in a sweat-band and retaining the same in the proper relation to the hat while the sewing progresses, and a brim-guide, constructed and adapted to operate substantially as described.

3. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of a curved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat near its head-opening, a gage adapted to conduct a sweat-band to the sewing mechanism, and two rollers, oneof which is adjustably mounted on the gage, while the other is secured to a rock-shaft and subjected to the action of a spring, constructed and adapted to operate substantially as described.

4. The combination of the rock-shaftand the outer guide-roller carried by the same, with the Presser-slide and mechanism connecting the same with the rock-shaft, substantially as described, for the purposes set forth.

5. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a curved work-plate, of the upper and lower longitudinal gage plates, (J D, the former having a groove, d, for guiding the reed of a sweat-band, and the lattera hp, f, for guiding the inner edge of asweat-band, and a spring-impelled roller arranged on the underside of the lower gage-plate, and adapted to bear against the outer edge of the sweatband to maintain the inner edge thereof against the lip of the lower gage, substantially as and for the purposes described.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand and seal this 23d day of J nly, 1879.

'r. w. BRACHER. n 8.]

Witnesses:

W. HAUFF, CHAS. WAHLEns.

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