US2152211A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

March 28, 1939. B. RABBINER GARMENT Filed April 29, 1958 ATTORNEYS Patented Mar. 28, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Application April 29, 1938, Serial No. 204,985

3 Claims.

This invention relates to garments, and more particularly to improvements in knitted cuffs applied to garments such as ski-pants. l

Ski-pants are provided ordinarily with a knitted cuff which is attached to the bottom of each leg and adapted to fit snugly about the ankle. Style is an important factor in such garments, and the accepted style requires that the pants fold over in a bloomer effect uniformly around the cuff. Since the cuffs are tight, it is difficult to insert and remove the foot unless an opening is provided, and numerous attempts have been made heretofore to apply hookless fasteners or zippers to such cuffs, so that they may be opened and closed readily to facilitate the insertion of the foot through the cuffs. In applying lsuch hookless fasteners, it has been customary to cut the knittedcuff and to apply the fastener thereto, extending it also beyond the cuff to an opening provided in the fabric of the pants. Also, it has been customary to sew the knitted cuff in a straight line to the bottom of the fabric forming the leg of the pants. 'Ihis construction introduces stiffness in the fastening device, and causes the leg of the pants to fold in an awkward manner, it being impossible to achieve in this Away the desired bloomer effect, and consequently the satisfactory styling of the pants. Efforts to avoid this disadvantage in applying fasteners to the cuffs have not been successful heretofore.

There is a further difficulty inherent in the construction heretofore employed, in that the operations required to attach the fastener to both the cuff and the fabric of the pants requires a number cf complicated sewing operations. Thus, instead of sewing directly around the seam which joins the knitted fabric to the fabric of the pants, it has been necessary to stop the sewing at the fastener, apply the tape of the fastener to the fabric of the pants by a different type of opera.- tion, and then complete the sewing with a third operation, in order that the fastener. may be secured to the fabric. Considerable difficulty is eX- perienced in producing a satisfactory garment, and the cost is excessive.

It is the object of the present invention to provide a method of applying fasteners to knitted cuffs and to secure' the culfs with the fastener to the pants in such a way as to ensure proper and satisfactory draping, that is, the provision of the desired bloomer effect.

Another object of the invention is to facilitate the application of the cuff with the fastener to the pants by a simpler operation which is less teners so applied as to provide the desired -bloom- Yer draping of the fabric.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent as it is better understood by reference to the following specification and the accompanying drawing, in which '1:9

Fig. 1 is a sectional view of the lower end of the pants leg with the cuff and closure applied, illustrating the proper and desired draping of the fabric to afford a satisfactory bloomer effect; `l:5

Fig. 2 is a similar view with the leg and cuff extended to illustrate the mode of applying the cuff' and the fastener;'

Fig. 3 is a plan section showing the interior of the pants leg with the cuff applied thereto;

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the pants leg extended with the cuff and fastener applied;

Fig. 5 is an elevation illustrating the method of cutting the cuff before it is applied to the pants leg;

Fig. 6 is a similar view illustrating the shaping of the Apants leg to which the cuff is applied; and

Fig. 'l is an elevation of the familiar hookless fastener or zipper.

In carrying out the invention, I have discovered that the proper draping of the fabric depends upon the initial shaping of the abutting edges of the pants leg and cuff and the elimination of any opening in the fabric of the pants leg to which a fastener must be applied. In other words, I have achieved the desired draping effect by removing from the upper edge of the cuff surplus material which has heretofore interfered with the proper draping, and by cutting the lower edge of the pants leg soas'to properly flt the cuff with the surplus' material removed. I use, furthermore, a shorter closure which is applied only to the openedges of the cuff and does not extend into any opening in the fabric of the pants leg. With this novel construction, the proper draping is facilitated, and the elimination of the fastener as a stiffening element of the pants leg ensures the draping as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawing instead of the distorted effect which characterizes the attempts made heretofore to apply fasteners to knitted cuffs used in connection ywith garments such as I have described. While the construction is simple, it involves a marked change and improvement over the constructions which have been available heretofore,

and provides a garment with satisfactory styling.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawing, which shows the draping of the pants leg, 5 indicates the material of the pants leg and 6 the knitted cuff which is secured by stitching to the pants leg along a dotted line 1. The fastener 8 is applied in the usual manner to the edges of the knitted cuff 6, which is cut to permit the insertion of the fastener. This operation is prior to attachment to the pants leg. A slide 9 is adapted to close or open the fastener as may be desired.

In forming the garment, the lower edges of the pants leg 5 are cut in arcs indicated at I0 with flattened edges H which are adapted to co-operate with similar edges I2 of the knitted cuff 6. The dotted line I3 indicates the upper edge of the cuff as it comes from the knitting machine, and heretofore has beenv used as approximately the line of sewing in attaching the cuif to the leg of the garment. In accordance with the present invention, the material between the line I3 and the line I2 is eliminated, so that when the cuff and pants leg are sewed together the stitching follows approximately the line I4, surplus fabric being cut away during the sewing operation by a knife provided for that purpose on the sewing machine (not shown). It will Vbe understood of course, that the cuff is circular in form and that there are, therefore, two edges corresponding to the line I2 opposite each other to co-operate with similar edges at the bottom of the pants leg. Y

"Ihis is more clearly illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, in which the leg 5 and cuff 6 are shown attached, the lines I 4 of sewing extending upwardly to points I5 at the sides of the leg. The fastener B with its slide 9 is attached to a tape I6 which is sewed to the edges of the cuff 6. The tape extends upwardly only to the point I5 and consequently the fastener is engaged with the material of the pants leg only at the point where the knitted cui is likewise engaged. The fastener consequently does not intend to stiffen the fabric of the pants leg as'has been usual in constructions heretofore used. The present construction facilitates the joining of the cuff to the pants leg because the sewing machine can work completely around the abutting edges of the knitted fabric and the pants leg without encountering metal which would, of course, break the needles.

Furthermore, the difficult operations required to extend the fastener between edges of the material forming the pants leg are entirely avoided inthe application of the cuff according to the present invention. A special advantage of the construction described is that the upper edge of the knitted cuff stretches readily to the full width .of the pants leg. This avoids extreme gathering Zand permits the desired drape effect which disdesired elasticity and other advantages of knitted cuffs for the purpose. No special machines or arrangements are required to produce cuffs adapted to be employed in accordance with the present invention. They are knitted in the ordinary manner, and thereafter the surplus material is cut away as indicated clearly in Fig. 5, and as hereinbefore described, in Order to provide the arc-shaped edges which facilitate attachment to the pants leg and afford the desired draping effect and the elimination of awkward or ugly folds which destroy the desired styling of the nished product.

Moreover, as hereinbefore indicated, the structure as described facilitates the manufacturing operations, eliminating unnecessary and complicated stitching operations and affording withal a stronger construction which is less likely to rip or tear. Because of the elimination of stiffness due to insertion of the fastener in the relatively heavier fabric of the pants, the operation of the fastener ismade more easy, and the user finds the garment more comfortable than similar garments constructed in the manner heretofore followed. The provision of the fastener permits opening of the cuff so that the wearer can put on or remove the garment without removing the shoes.

Various changes may be made in the form and arrangement of the parts and details of construction thereof, without departing from the invention or sacrificing any of its advantages.

I claim:

1. A garment having legs each provided with a cuff at its bottom of narrower width than the leg, the lower edge of each leg proper having at least one recess extending upwardly from its lower edge, each cuff having an extension projecting upwardly into the recess of the leg to which it is attached and having an opening;

extending upwardly from its lower edge into but not beyond its said extension, and fasteners affording closures for the opening in the cuffs.

2. A garment having legs each provided with an elastic cuff at its bottom of narrower width than the leg, the lower edge of each leg proper having at least one recess extending upwardly from its lower edge, each cuff having an extension projecting upwardly into the recessof the leg to which it is attached and having an opening extending upwardly from its lower edge into but not beyond its said extension, and fasteners affording closures for the opening in the cuffs.

3. A garment having legs each provided with a cuff of knitted fabric at its bottom` of narrower to a point adjacent the uppermost part of an extension thereof, and fasteners affording closures for the openings in the cuffs.

BERTRAND RABBINER.

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