US2147412A - Welt shoemaking - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 14, 1939. w M PAGE 2,147,412

WEILT SHOEMAKING Filed April 18, 1956 tum fi. 0 W W Mm Wibwwgy Patented Feb. 14, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 7 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of welt shoes and comprises a novel shoemaking process characterized by certain steps which greatly simplify the operation of attaching the welt to the upper, and in general, improve the accuracy and convenience of manufacturing welt shoes. The process of my invention also results in a substantial reduction in the cost of manufacturing shoes of this type and provides a welt shoe of lighter and more flexible construction than has been available heretofore.

In my prior U. S. Letters Patent No. 2,145,818, dated January 31, 1939, I have disclosed a shoemaking process characterized by stiffening the lasted upperin a zone about the marginal edge of the last bottom, thus converting this portion of the upper into a stiff, self-sustaining frame which is not subject to deformation but which preserves the shape imparted to it throughout the 20 subsequent shoemaking operation. One satisfactory manner of stiffening the upper in this manner consists in incorporating therein a celanese textile fabric impregnated with a pyroxylin compound which may be temporarily softened by a solvent prior to the lasting operation, and which has the property of hardening so as to convert the upper permanently into the molded shape imparted to its lasted margin in the lasting operation. Preferably, as herein shown, the stiif- 30 ened zone in the upper includes the overlasted margin which lies fiat upon the last bottom and a portion of the side walls of the upper and thus constitutes a peripheral frame extending continuously about the forepart of the shoe and being of angular cross section.

The last operation may be carried out in any desired or conventional manner and the overlasted margin secured temporarily by lasting tacks. When the upper has stiffened upon the last the lasting tacks may be removed, the overlasted margin trimmed if desired, and the upper removed from the last in this condition. It will be apparent thereupon that the everlasted margin presents a thin, flat, stiff flange extend- 45 ing inwardly at substantially right angles to the adjacent walls of the upper which are also stiffened and that the inner edge of the stiffened flange defines an opening of substantial size in the shoe bottom. Molding an angle iron strip 50 into the margin would result in a similar eifect. The flange prepared in this manner is in ideal condition to have a welt attached to it. In the first place it presents a free overhanging edge so that both faces may be conveniently engaged by 55 pressing or stitching instrumentalities. The thin,

stiff, continuous flange may be conveniently handled and advanced to the welt attaching point by the operator. Moreover, the stiifened upright wall of the upper affords an accurate gaug ing surface from which the location of the welt 5 may be gauged with precision.

The overhanging condition of the flange of the upper offers a wonderful opportunity for securing a welt thereto because it affords such complete and easy access to both sides of the flange. 10 For example, the welt may be secured by a lockstitch seam since the shuttle may be readily introduced beneath the flange through the opening in the shoe bottom. If the Welt be cemented to the flange cooperative pressure device may be operated across the free edge of the flange to apply progressive pressure to the superposed welt and flange.

Having sewed or otherwise attached the welt to the upper as above explained the shoe may be completed by securing a single outsole to the welt and this sole may be of light and flexible character. The outsole may be shouldered to fit the opening inthe shoe bottom defined by the overlasted marging, or a preformed filler blank may be secured to its inner face, but in any case a single soled, smooth bottom, light, flexible welt shoe results in which the fine lines of the last are preserved to a striking degree.

These and other features and characteristics of the novel process of my invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following description of one manner in which it may be carried out as illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which,

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective of an upper turned inside out and shown with the lining turned back to permit the stiffening strip to be moistened.

Fig. 2 is a view in perspective showing the fore- 40 part of the lasted upper upon the last with portions broken away.

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the forepart of the upper upon the last, after the trimming operation.

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective illustrative of the welt sewing operation.

Fig. 5 is a view in cross section on an enlarged scale of the welted upper in the plane of the needle, and

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary View in elevation of a portion of the finished shoe.

The upper Ill and its lining II are first cut out to the required shape and size, itbeing re-' membered that, in accordance with the process of my invention, the size of both of these blanks may be substantially reduced as compared to the size of corresponding blanks to be utilized in processes heretofore commercially practiced. As herein shown, the stiffening strip l2, may be of celastic material, that is to say, a strip of textile material impregnated with a pyroxylin compound which has the properties of softening under the application of a suitable solvent and of setting in a hard, stiff condition when the solvent has evaporated. The strip i2 is shown as slashed along one edge and as secured to the margin of the upper ID by a line of stitching l3. Preferably the outer margins of the strip I2 and of the upper Ill are located in flush relation, although the strip may be attached in any location which will position it properly with respect to the marginal edge of the last. In the present instance the stiffening strip i2 is about inch wide and in passing about the toe portion of the upper the tongues formed by the slashes are brought into a partial overlapping so that the strip as a whole lies smoothly upon the inner surface of the upper. The strip may be applied continuously as herein shown or in shorter lengths if preferred.

Having prepared the lined vamp as indicated in Fig. 1 it may be made ready for the lasting operation by softening the strip l2 and this may be conveniently done by the application of a liquid solvent. For example, the lining Il may be folded back and the strip l2 passed continuously beneath a nozzle l4 arranged to supply the solvent in proper quantity. When the strip l2 has been rendered soft and limp the lined upper is ready to be placed upon a last !5, pulled over, and

then lasted in any desired manner, as for example,

by a hand method machine driving lasting tacks 16. As suggested in Fig. 2 the lasting operation is carried out upon a bare last in such a manner that the softened strip I2 is molded over the vertex formed by the marginal edge of the last bottom, that is, a portion of the strip is located in the overlasted flange of the upper and a portion is located in the upstanding side walls of the upper against the walls of the last. The lining I! is lasted directly in'contact with the wood of the last and the entire overlasted margin is temporarily held in place by the lasting tacks !6.

At the conclusion of the lasting operation the celastic strip I! which has now become fused into the upper and lining and molded with them, is allowed to set, and this calls merely for a drying operation sufficient to remove the liquid solvent. It may be effected in a few minutes with the assistance of a drier or will take place by natural evaporation at room temperature within a short time. Its effect is to stiffen and harden the lasted margin of the upper in the form of a continuous integral frame molded accurately to the shape of the last and capable of permanently retaining its shape throughout further treatment of the upper.

At the conclusion of the drying operation, when the molded frame in the upper has acquired its stiffened character, the lasting tacks l6 may be withdrawn and the overlasted margin of the upper trimmed upon the last bottom. A portion of a shoe in this condition is illustrated in Fig. 3. The inturned margin of the upper is trimmed on a line parallel to the contour of the last or otherwise operated upon to form a clean-cut opening of definite area in the shoe bottom which may be subsequently filled by a preformed filler, as will be presently explained. It is immaterial whether or not in the trimming operation the seam l3 uniting the strip I 2 to the upper is removed, since the margin of the lined upper is now in effect fused into a solid mass and reduced to a single composite ply.

The lasted upper, in the condition shown in Fig. 3, may now be removed from the last without danger of being misshapen and it is so shown in Fig. 4. The overlasted margin comprises a flat stiff flange which extends about the periphery of the shoe bottom leaving a substantial opening therein and the upstanding walls of the upper adjacent to the overlasted flange are also stiffened for an appreciable distance about the shoe bottom. It will be understood that under these conditions, the stiffened flange may be presented conveniently to sewing instrumentalities or subjected to any other desired treatment.

As shown in Fig. 4 it is proposed to sew a welt strip l8 to this flange by a lock stitch seam 19. For this purpose the molded upper is presented to a sewing machine having a projecting work arm 20 carrying a workplate 2! with a horizontal gauge roll 22 let into its forward end. The gauge roll 22 is centrally perforated to permit the passage of the needle 26. The arm 29 also carries within its forward end a shuttle 23, and this may be operated in the usual manner by mechanism not herein shown. The sewing machine has also an overhead arm 24- in which is mounted a reciprocatory needle bar 25 carrying the needle 26. A presser foot bar 2! is also carried by the arm 24 and is provided with a presser foot, shown in Fig. 5, operating in the usual manner to position the work upon the work plate 2! and hold the superposed welt and flange under pressure at the sewing point.

It will be apparent that the work arm 23 may be conveniently presented through the opening in the shoe bottom to position the work plate beneath the stiffened flange of the upper and that, having so positioned the work plate, the upper may be advanced continuously to carry the sewing point around the forepart of the shoe, securing the welt strip thereto by a lock stitch seam as suggested in Figs. 4 and 5. The welt sewing operation may be carried out accurately since the location of the welt and of the seam may be gauged by the gauge roll 22 running against the inner face of the stiffened upright wall of the upper adjacent to its marginal fold vertex or in any other desired gauged relation with respect to the stiffened flange. This operation may be carried out conveniently without tendency to disturb or distort the upper and with the sewing point in plain sight and the work in full control of the operator. The welting may extend to the ball line of the shoe, or, in some cases, to the heel breast line, depending upon the nature of the work in hand, and the rear ends of the welt may be bevelled in the usual manner.

The lasting of the heel seat is not herein shown since it forms no part of the present invention and may be dealt with in any convenient commercial manner. Having completed the welt sewing operation, a single outsole is prepared which is shouldered or provided with a preformed filler having the proper contour to fill exactly the opening defined by the trimmed overlasted margin of the upper in the shoe bottom. As shown in Fig. 6 the outsole 3G is provided upon its inner face with a filler 3! of sheet material of just the shape and thickness to drop into the opening of the shoe bottom, filling the same and forming a smooth flush surface with the trimmed overlasted flange of the upper. The outsole may be then secured to the welt by the usual outseam or may be cemented to the welt and the shoe completed in conventional manner,

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is,

1. A process of shoemaking including the steps of stiffening an upper about the marginal edge of a bare last bottom, removing the lasted upper from the last with its stiffened overlasted flange forming an open frame about the periphery of the shoe bottom, presenting a shuttle thread supply through the opening of said frame in position beneath said flange, and sewing a welt to the flange by a lock-stitch seam employing a shuttle thread therein from said supply.

2. A process of shoemaking including the steps of forming a stiffened frame in the margin of a lasted upper which frame includes the overlasted flange, removing the upper from the last, introducing a support for the flange through the space in the bottom of the upper between the flange edges, and sewing a welt to the flange while so supported.

3. A process of shoemaking including the steps of molding into an upper a stiff marginal frame including the overlasted flange, trimming the flange to present an opening of predetermined contour in the shoe bottom, and sewing a welt to said flange while the latter is progressively advanced across a thread supplying member which is introduced beneath the flange through the opening in the shoe bottom.

4. A process of shoemaking including the steps of forming a stiff frame in the margin of a lasted upper which frame includes the overlasted flange, removing the upper from the last, and sewing a welt to said flange by an overhead needle and a shuttle introduced beneath the flange through the space between the free edges thereof.

5. A process of welt shoemaking including the steps of molding the lasted margin of a lined upper to a bare last and simultaneously forming a stiff flange in the overlasted margin thereof, trimming the flange to a predetermined width, then supporting the stiff flange with its trimmed edge overhanging, and securing a welt thereto while sosupported.

6. A process of welt shoemaking including the steps of molding the margin of an upper into a stiff, open-center frame of angular cross section in which is included the overlasted margin and part of the side walls of the upper, trimming the stiffened margin to present a smooth inner edge, placing a welt upon the trimmed margin while the latter presents a free overhanging edge, subjecting the superposed welt and flange to pressure, and securing them together.

7. A process of welt shoemaking which is characterized by the steps of lasting the margin of the upper over the bottom of a last, stiffening the overlasted upper material while in position on the last so that it presents a stiff, self-sustaining flange conforming in contour to the last bottom, trimming the inner edge of said flange, and then sewing a welt in gauged relation to the stiff flange thus produced.

WILLIAM M. PAGE.

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