US2145471A - Hosiery and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Jan0 3l, 1939. J. L.. BEERs ET AL HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 4 Sheets-Sheet 1- Filed Jan. 6l 1958 JQ'Z Z NVENTORS @r5- and ATTORNEY,

jan. 31, 939.I L BEERS ET AL 2,145,471

HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 MPa/va S/Df aF fha/wc' A 1322.5' Jrazzssefger ATTORNEY.

Jan. 31, 1939. Jfl.. BEERS ET AL HOSIER'Y AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet ma T ma w W im. si, m39. J. L, BEERS ET AL www HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Filed Jan. 6, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 1 INVENTORS S jo eens ma? M126 rawegyfr ATTORNEY.

atented Jan. 31, 1939 UNITED STATES HOSIERY ANDI METHOD OF THE SAME Joseph L. Beers, Bloomfield, N. J., and Hans J.

Straussberger, Brooklyn, .N.

Y., assignors to Julius Kayser & Co., Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application January 6,

14 Claims.

The present invention generally relates to hoslery and method of making the same and, more particularly, to stockings of the type shown and described in co-pending application, Serial Num- 5 ber 150,674, filed June 28, 1937, in the name of Charles A. Kaufman, that is, stockings commonly known as mesh stockings and having a combined leg and instep fabric cut to shape from open work fabric, such as mesh, lace, or like material, and

l a welt and font of fiat weft knitted fabric.

The invention has for one of its main objects the provision of a stocking of the type referred to, having Aan improved connection between the leg and instep portion and the welt and foot l sections.

Another important object of the invention resides in the provision of a stocking having a leg and instep of mesh fabric and a welt and foot of weft knit fabric, wherein is devised means to 20 eect a reinforced and finished connection between the fabrics capable of resisting strain and stresses to which the stocking is subjected when put to ordinary use, while adapted to impart a smooth finished appearance at the points of the ,5 fabric interconnection.

Still another important feature of the invention resides in the provision of a stocking consisting of a mesh fabric leg and instep part and flat knitted welt andfoot parts, said parts being so m constructed that they may be easily and convenientlyfhandled to effect their interconnection, thereby facilitating the manufacture of the stocking and making it possible to produce the same on a practical commercial basis.

The invention further contemplates the provision of a method of knitting the Welt and foot fabrics and connecting them to a cut leg and instep fabric in such a way that a plurality of fabric thicknesses are formed, between which is .m inserted and imprisoned a substantial amount of the leg fabric, thereby resulting in producing a seam having an increased strength and a pleasing finished appearance.

Other important objects and advantages of the .g-, invention will be -in part obvious and in part pointed out hereinafter.

In order that the invention and its mode of operation may be readily understood by persons skilled in the art, we have, in the accompanying 5.1) drawings and in the detailed description based thereupon, set out possible embodiments of the invention.

In these drawings:

Figure 1 is an elevation illustrating a finished 5,-, stocking constructed in accordance with the in4 vention.

Figure 2 is a composite view illustrating the cut leg and instep blank, and the welt and foot construction.

Figures 3 to 5 inclusive are diagrammatic rep- 1938, Serial N0. 183,572

resentations of the successive steps followed in uniting the welt to the corresponding portion of the leg fabric in accordance with one mode of practicing the invention.

Figure 6 is a section taken on line 6 6 of Figure 5.

Figures 7 to l1 inclusive are diagrammatic representations of the various steps followed in knitting the foot fabric.

Figure 12 is a detail in perspective illustrating one mode of connecting the leg fabric blank with a part of the foot fabric.

Figure 13 is a section taken on line 13-13 of Figure 12.

Figures 14 toI 19 inclusive are diagrammatic representations of the steps followed in knitting the welt and uniting it to the leg blank in accordance with a modification of the invention.

Having more particular reference to the drawings, wherein like characters of reference will designate corresponding parts throughout, we have shown in Figure l a complete and finished stocking l consisting of a leg 2, including an instep 3, a foot Il, and a welt 5.

The leg 2 is preferably formedl With a leg fabric blank 6 cut, substantially in the shape represented in Figure 2, from a sheet of suitable fabric, preferably mesh, lace, or open Work Warp knit fabric. It will be noted that the opposite side edges 'l of the blank 6 from the marginal edge 8 along the line olf-a at one end of said blank are cut and fashioned so that the blank will suitably fit the shape of a human leg when said edges 'l are sewed together to form the stocking.

It will also be noted that the edges 9 along the pf line b-b at the lower portion ofthe blank 6, are cut at substantially right angles with respect to the edges 'l and to the edges I0, the latter extending between the points defined by said line b-b and line c-c which is along the marginal edge ll at the other end of the blank.

Attention is called to the fact that the opposite portions of the leg fabric blank adjacent the marginal edges 9 and I0 are longitudinally slit, as shown at l2, whereby to provide a pair of depending tabs I3 for the purpose to be later specified. i

It is, of course, to be understood that the cutting of the blank along the edges 9, as shown herein, is specifically intended for the formation of an ordinary high-splice heel, 4lout if it is desirable to form a different type oi heel, such as a pointed heel, then theblank may be cut so that the edges -9 will be at an angle different from that shown, in order to adapt itself to the formation of the desired type of heel.

The section of the blank from the line b-b'to the line c-c, (the length of which section may vary, depending upon the foot size), constitutes the instep 3, and-those portions thereof adjacent the edges 9, I0, and II are adapted to be connected to our improved foot 4, the construction of which is more clearly shown in Figure 2.

As represented in said Figure 2, the foot 4 is made from a full-fashioned fabric blank` I4 com prising a pair of complementary heel fabrics I5, a pair of complementary vsole fabrics I6, and a toe fabric I"l. I

One end of each heel fabric I5 is provided with a double-ply welt-like fabric projection I8 extending from the heel fabric demarking line I9.

The other end of each heel fabric I5 is provided V with a topping course and a topping tab 22. It will, of course, be understood that each heel fabric may be narrowed, as shown at 23, to irnpart a proper curve shaping to one selvedge edge 24 thereof, the other selvedge edge 25 being substantially straight. In this connection, it is to be noted that the selvedge edges '26 and v2`I of the Vwelt-like fabric projection I8 extend as a continuation of the selvedge edges 24 and 25 of the heel fabrics. Whereas the two heel fabrics I5 are of idential construction, they are so manufactured that one serves as the right heel and the other as the left heel.

The sole fabrics I6 start at the selvedge edges 25 of the heel fabrics I5, extend therefrom for a length sufficient to correspond to the desired size of the foot being knitted and terminate at the point where the knitting of the toe begins.

Each sole fabric I6 may be narrowed in the usual way in the vicinity of its starting and terminating portions, as represented at 28 and 29, whereby the outer selvedge edges 30 may assume the proper curve shape; the inner selvedge edge 3I remaining substantially straight.

The toe fabric II has its side portions 32 interknit with the sole fabrics I6 so that the selvedge edges 33 of said toe fabric become a continuation of the outer selvedge edges 30 of the sole fabrics.

Interknit, as at 34, to the intermediate portion of the toe fabric, is a double-ply welt-like portion 35 extending betweenthe sole fabrics I6 and having a width slightly greater than the distance from the inner selvedge of one of said sole fabrics to the inner selvedge of the remaining sole fabric so that the selvedge edges 36 of said welt-like portion 35 overlap the selvedge edges 3I of said sole fabrics.

'I'he usual gores 38. topping course 39, and topping tab 40, may be provided in the toe fabric Il.

'I'he welt 5 may be of any suitable or desirable construction but,- as represented in the drawings, is preferably made from a flat knitted fabric blank 4I of generaLrectangular formation with the selvedge edges 42 thereof adapted to become substantially aligned with the selvedge edges of the adjacent portion of the leg fabric blank 6 when connected thereto. The welt fabric blank 4I also is preferably provided with a medial picot course 43 along which said blank may be folded, whlreby to form the commonly known double we In knitting the foot blank, -the heel fabrics I5 are rst made on any type of flat knitting machine capable of adapting itself to the work, for instance, on the well-known Reading full-fashioned knitting machine withwhich those skilled in the art are familiar.

The mode of procedure in knitting Ithe heel fabrics will be clearly understood by the showing made in Figures 7 and 8 inclusive.

When starting the heel fabrics, an ordinary welt bar W is brought into. operative relation with the needles N, sinkers S, and'knockover bits K to engage, in the usual way, the initial knitted courses and subsequently draw the fabric out of the knitting -eld as the knitting of said fabric progresses.

A suiiicient number of courses are knitted to form the welt-like fabric projection I8 which is folded over, welt fashion, as indicated by the arrow A in Figure 7, to provide a double thickness of fabric. It will be noted that during the knitting of said projection, the fabric is slightly narrowed, then widened, as shown at 44 and 45 respectively, and a pair of picot courses 46 are knitted in spaced relation 'so that, upon folding the fabric to form the double thickness, the narrowed and widened portions 44 and 45 and the picot courses 46 will lay in diametrically opposed relationship. 1

"With completion of the welt-like fabric projection I8, the knitting is continued to finish the heel fabric I5 which is narrowed, as at 23, to impart shaping thereto and terminates with the ordinary topping course 20 and topping tab 22. As hereinbefore stated, the heel fabrics I5 are so knitted that one forms the right heel while the other forms the left heel.

It will be appreciated that the heel fabrics of the character described may be manufactured in stock quantities and at odd times, inasmuch as the heel fabrics need not be utilized immediately but may be stored for future use when foot blanks are required.

When making the foot blank I4, two completed heel fabrics I5, that is, one right and one left heel fabric, are transferred on a knitting section of a commonly known full-fashioned footer knitting machine by engaging the loops at the selvedge edge 25 of said heel fabrics with a certain number of end needles, the heel fabrics being relative- 1y disposed so that the welt-like projections I8 will be facing each other in a manner more fully represented in Figure 9. The two heel fabrics I5 are so placed on the needles of the footer knitting machine that the distance therebetween will correspond to the width of the instep.

With the heel fabrics thus transferredl on the knitting machine, the latter is operated to simultaneously knit the pair of sole fabrics I6, one sole fabric being knitted onto each heel fabric. In knitting the sole fabrics, we prefer to use one yarn carrier to form each sole fabric, each carrier being separately operated, that is,.each carrier being individually connected to a separate carrier bar operable through the usual well-known yarn feeding mechanism of an ordinary fullfashioned footer to impart an independent recip- 4 rocatory movement to the respective carriers for causing the same to lay their yarn over the required number of needles.

Of course, it is to be understood that additional carriers may be brought in, to work in conjunction with each of the main carriers, for instance, when it is desirable to lay a reinforcing thread or to knit a plated fabric and, in that event, the additional carriers are adjusted to operate in proper relation with respect to the main carriers, a matter well lunderstood by those skilled in the art.

During the knitting o'f the sole fabrics I6, the 4usual narrowing mechanism is caused to function, as is well known in the art, to form the narrowings 28 and 29 for'the purpose hereinbefore specified. Y

When there has been knitted a, suiiicient amount of courses to constitute the sole fabrics,

that is, when the knitting has been carried out tov to the point where the knitting of the toe is to,l

begin, the machine is stopped and a small readymade welt portion 35 is transferred in any sult-l able manner along the marginal course 46 on the 1 the yarn is fed in one continuous stroke overthe end and intermediate needles to knit the toefabric il which thus becomes interknitted with said sole fabrics I6 and small welt portion 35 as indicated at 34.

In knitting the toe fabric, Athenarrowingmech` i anism of the knitting machine is operated to,

form the toe gores 38; the knitting machine is further operated` to knit as usual -the topping course 39 and topping tab 40 ontov the toe fabric fabrics and the small welt portion 35. In thismanner, there is formed `a simulated diamond point resembling the `diamond point in the toe, which imparts a pleasing symmetrical appearance as illustrated in Figures 12, and 11.

The completed foot blank is then ready to be connected to the leg blank and the steps which we prefer to follow in effecting this connection will now be described:

'Ihe welt-like projections `I8 of the heel fabrics I5 and the small welt portion 35 of the toe fabric Il are folded along their respective picot courses 46 and 46 in the manner more clearly shown in Figures 12 and 13, lthus forming areentrant portion 50 between the walls of which is inserted the corresponding portions of the leg fabric blank, that is, the depending tabs I3 and the lower marginal portion of the instep adjacent the edge I I.

The layers of fabrics are then sewed through and through, preferably by means of a triple needle stitching machine, thus forminga rigid seam between the leg and foot at the heel and toe parts, said seams consisting of three lines of stitchings, as represented at 5I. of the picot courses 46 and 46', it will be appreciated that finished edges- 52 appear at the seam which, in connection with the linesA of stitchings 5|, enhance thegeneral appearance of the stocking.

Moreover, the provision of the picot courses facilitates the folding of the welt-like fabric projections and the small welt portion because the picot courses tend to crimp the fabric along a straight line.

The seaming of the heel and toe fabrics, of course, leaves free the marginal side edges II) of the instep 3, which edges may then be sewed or seamed, according to the usual mode of procedure, to the corresponding selvedge edges 21 of the heel welt-like projections I8 and to the selvedge edges 3l of the sole fabrics to form the seam 53 (Fig. l), said seam 53 continuing alongI Because of the provision` any suitable manner, We prefer to effect the connection as follows:

I-V'I'he welt blank is laid flat with the right side ofrthe fabric facing up. The upper marginal portion of the leg blank is then placed upon the welt blank so that the edge 8 of said lleg blank is substantially aligned with one of the corresponding edges of the welt blank. The welt blank is then foldedalong the picot course 43 and the other marginal edge thereof brought over the corresponding edge lof the'leg fabric blank 6.

The superimposed edges l of the welt blank, .with theleg fabric therebetween, are then sewed together, preferably` by l,means of a triple needle stitching machine, as findicated at 54.

The Weltis then turned inside out, which forms a hem at the point of connection between the welt;y and leg fabrics, enclosing `the seam and exposing the right side of the welt. fabric.

vThe stocking is completedin the usual manner, that is, the heel fabricskl are looped together by placing the topping course 20 in engagement with the points of a looping machine by means of the topping tabs 22 which are thereafter ravelled or cut olf in the course of the operation. The toe fabric is looped along the topping course 39, the tab 40 having been ravelled or cut oif after serving its purpose of topping on, and finally the connected leg, foot, and welt blanks are sewed along theirrespective' edges 1, 24, 26, 30, 33, and 42 to form the back seam 56 (Fig. 1.)

It is to be understood that the foregoing description sets forth a possible embodiment of the invention and that the same is capable of modifications Without departing from the essence of the invention. For instance, instead of effecting a seaming connection between the welt and leg fabric blanks in the manner hereinbefore set forth, the connection may be had by means of interknitting and seaming operations, diagrammatically shown in Figures 14 lto 19 inclusive. To accomplish this type of connection, a welt blank 4I is knitted upon any suitable Well known knitting machine. Prior to the turning of the welt, the corresponding edge portion of the leg fabric blank 6' is topped on the knitting needles N2 so that a short section 6a of said leg fabric blank projects from the inner side of the needles, thel remaining portion 4of the leg fabric blank being allowed to drop off one side of the welt blank, as represented in Figure 14 of the drawings.

The welt blank is then turned, as is customary, and a course of knitted loops 4| a is formed to interknit the walls of the welt blank with the corresponding portion of the leg fabric blank theredisengage the same and a few courses knitted to provide a welt extension 4Ib substantially equal in size to the short section 6a of leg fabric blank. The welt blank is then removed olf the machine and, as shown in Figure 18, the welt extension 4Ibv and short section 6a of leg fabric blank sewed together, preferably by means of a triple needle stitching machine, as illustrated at 54'. The welt blank is nally turned inside out, as shown in Figure 19, forming a hem 55 enclosing the interknit and seamed connection, after which the stocking is completed, as hereinbefore described.

It is also to be understood that the welt may be attached to the leg in the same manner as done at the heel and toe, by forming the Welt with the necessary extension.

In concluding, we wish it to be understood that other modifications in the mode of practicing and' constructing the invention may be made and, therefore, any modifications coming within the scope of the subjoined claims are to be considered within the spirit of the invention:

What we claim is:

1. In a stocking having a cut fabric leg portion and a knitted stocking section, connecting means between parts of the leg portion and the stocking section consisting of a welt-like extension made with the stocking section and folded to form a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

2. In a stocking having a cut fabric leg portion and a knitted stocking section, connecting means between parts of the leg portion and the stocking section consisting of a double ply weltlike extension, each ply having an intermediate picot course, said welt-like extension being folded along the picot course to form a re-entrant portion with outer picot edges enclosing a corresponding partl of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

3- In a stocking h-aving a cut fabric leg portion and a knitted foot section, connecting means between the heel of said foot section and the corresponding part ofsaid leg portion consisting of awelt-like extension made integrally with said heel and folded to form a reentrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

4. In a stocking having a cut fabric leg portion and a knitted foot section, connecting means between the toe of said foot section and the corresponding part of said leg portion consisting of a welt-like extension made integrally with said toe and folded to form a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting. the same.

5. In a stocking having a cut fabric leg portion and a knitted foot section, connecting means between the heel and toe of said foot section and the corresponding part of said leg portion consisting of Welt-like extensions made integrally -With said toe and heel, each of said extensions being folded to form a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the'part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

6. In a stocking having a leg portion cut to shape from open mesh fabric and a stocking section knitted to shape on a full-fashioned knitting machine, connecting means between parts of the leg portion and the stocking section consisting of a welt-like extension knitted integrally with the stocking section and folded to form a reentrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

' 7. In a stocking having a leg portion cut to shape from open mesh fabric and a foot section knitted to shape on a full-fashioned knitting machine, connecting means between parts of the leg portion and the foot section consisting of a welt-like extension knitted integrally with the heel andtoe of the foot section and folded to form a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

8. A stockinghaving a cut fabric leg portion and a shaped knitted fabric stocking section connected to the corresponding part of the leg fabric portion, said stocking having a part provided with a welt-like extension folded inwardly of itself to provide a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and4 stitchings passing through said welt-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for confleeting the same.

9. A stocking having a cut open-work fabric leg portion and a full-fashioned knitted fabric foot portion connected to the corresponding part of the leg fabric portion, said foot portion having an interknitted Welt-like extension folded inwardly of itself to provide a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said weft-like extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

10. A stocking having a cut-open-work leg portion and a full-fashioned knitted foot portion connected at its inner marginal edges to the corresponding part of the leg portion, said foot portion consisting of a pair of sole fabrics knitted as a continuation of said heel fabrics, and a toe fabric knitted as a continuation of said sole fabrics, said heel and toe fabrics each having a weltlike extension folded to. form a re-entrant portion enclosing a corresponding part of the leg fabric, and stitchings passing through said weltlike extension and the part of the leg fabric therebetween for connecting the same.

11. A full-fashioned foot fabric blank adapted to be connected to a cut leg fabric blank, said foot fabric comprising a pair of heel fabrics, each having a double ply welt-like extension projecting therefrom and folded to form a re-entrant portion to enclose between the folds thereof a corresponding part of said leg fabric blank for seamed connection therewith.

12. A stocking comprising a cut open-work leg fabric and a knitted double-ply welt fabric having a combined, interknit and sewed connection with said leg fabric, said connection 4being hidden between the plies of the welt.

13. 'I'he method' of uniting a stocking leg fabric section to the fabric of another part of a stocking comprising knitting the stocking part fabric with a double ply welt-like projection, folding said double ply welt-like projection to form a re-entrant portion, inserting the corresponding portion of the stocking leg fabric, and stitching said folded welt-like extension with the portion of the leg fabric therebetween.

14. The method of uniting a stocking leg fabric section with the fabric of another part of a stocking comprising knitting the stocking part fabric with va double ply welt-like projection, forming a picot course in each ply, folding said double ply Welt-like projection along the picot course to form a re-entrant portion with outer picot edges, inserting the corresponding portion of the leg section, and stitching said folded welt-like extension with the portion of the leg fabric therebetween.

JOSEPH L. BEERS. HANS J. STRAUSSBERGER.

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