US2142681A - Pinking mechanism for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

Jano 3, 1939.

PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Oct. 19, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.

v. .1.s1eoDA, I 2,142,681

Jam 3, 1939. v. J. SIGODA 234,611

PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Oct. 19, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 3, 1939 MPINKING MECHANISM FOR, SEWING MACHINES Victor J. Sigoda, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Man-Sew Pinking Attachment Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application October 19, 1935, Serial No. 45,787

42 Claims. 112-424) My present invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to pinking or trimming mechanisms for such machines, and the invention has for its object and purpose the provision Another object of the invention is the provision of a construction of means which will permit the ring element to be mounted in its annular raceway upon very small or fine roller eleof an improved pinking construction devised for ments contained in a retainer; and further,which operation by the feed dog of the machine for will permit the ring element to be operated either pinking or trimming work and which is adapted, through an alternating-movement clutch which when desired, to carry out the pinking operation derives its power from the feed dog of the sewin connection with the sewing of the work by the ing machine and functions to drive the ring elemachine. ment intermittently in the same direction, or by One of the objects of the invention is the proa direct driving rack upon the feed dog so arvision of a pinking device of the character deranged that the rack will engage and move the scribed which will embody certain desired fearing element with each feeding movement of the tures of simplicity and convenience and in which feed dog. the parts are so fashioned and combined that A still further object of the invention is the the cost of manufacture will be reduced to a miniprovision of a pinking device of the character mum. In the construction of the device, I have described which is adapted to carry various interprovided several improved and advantageous feachangeable attachments such as guides, hemtures, especially with regard to simplicity of the mers, binders and the like capable of positionparts, facility in their assembly and arrangement, ing or operating upon the edge portions of the and durability and efiiciency in their operation. work which are to be subjected to the sewing and Another object of the invention is the prothe pinking operations. vision of a pinking device embodying, as a char- With the above and other objects in view, the acteristic and important feature thereof, a revinvention consists in the improved pinking decluble pinking ring element disposed in an anvice and in the form, construction and relative nular raceway to revolve in horizontal position arrangement of its several parts and in the interand in revolving to pass in very close proximity relation and functions thereof, as will be herein- V to the feed mechanism of the sewing machine. after more fully described and claimed. The top of this ring element throughout the cir- Several simple and commercially practical excular extent thereof is provided with pinking or amples of the invention are disclosed in the accutting teeth of any suitable design; and for cocompanying drawings in which:- operation with the ring teeth there is provided a Figure 1 is a top plan view of a pinking device rotatable roller by means of which to press the made in accordance with my invention, parts bework upon the teeth to cause the trimming of the ing broken away and parts being shown in secwork thereby. This roller is carried by a mantion; ually movable presser frame by which the roller Fig. 2 is a cross sectional view through the deis moved into and out of pressure exerting posivice from front to rear, taken on the line 22 tion with respect to the ring element, and said of Fig. 1; frame involves features'of adjustment by means Fig. 3 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view, of which the presser roller may be variously potaken on the line 33 of Fig. 1; 40 sitioned with respect to the ring element for op- Fig. 4 is another fragmentary vertical secerating upon various thicknesses of work. tional view taken on the line i 1 of Fig. 1;

Another object of the invention is the pro- Fig. 5 is a top plan View of the feed dog shown vision of means whereby to move or revolve the in Figs.,1 and 3; ring element in synchronism with the forwardly Fig. 6 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view feeding movements or impulses of the well-known showing a feed dog constructed with relatively four-motion feed mechanism of the sewing mamovable rack members for engaging with teeth chine. The ring element and roller are so placed on the underface of the ring element; with respect to the feed mechanism that the Fig. '7 is a top plan view of the feed dog shown feeding of the work will be aided by the synin Fig. 6 in connecticn'with a portion of the ring chronized movement of the ring element upon element shown in broken lines; which the work is trimmed. Under the arrange- Fig. 8 is a Vertical sectional view taken on the ment, the work may be sewed without pinking it, line B-8 of Fig. 6; or it may be pinked without sewing it, or again, Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing it may be sewed and pinked at the same time. a modif cation in, the means for controlling and iii) regulating the presser frame carrying the presser roller;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. l, but illustrating another form of clutch by which to drive the ring element intermittently in the same direction;

Fig. 11 is a top plan view of the form of feed dog shown in Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view taken on the line I2|2 of Fig. 10, and showing also in broken lines a fragmentary portion of the presser roller.

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary sectional view taken 1 on the line l3-l3 of Fig. 10; and

Figs. 14 and 15 are fragmentary top plan views of well-known attachments which may be used in connection with and supported by my im proved pinking device for disposing or preparing in a particular way the marginal edge portions of the work for the sewing and pinking operations.

With more particular reference to the accompanying drawings, and first to Figs. 1 to 5, inclusive, my invention for purposes of illustration is shown in connection with a base plate having, with respect to the operator of the sewing machine, a front edge 2| and a rear edge 22, and this plate includes at the left hand end thereof an integral throat or needle plate portion 23 having the usual throat openings 24 and a needle opening 25. This base plate with its integral throat or needle plate is devised to take the place of the usual throat or needle plate which is customarily secured upon or recessed in the bed plate of a sewing machine. The base plate 20 may thus be secured upon the bed plate of the sewing machine to replace the usual throat or needle plate and in such manner that the stitching mechanism comprising a needle 26 will operate in the usual way through the needle opening and so that the usual feed teeth or racks 24a, and 21 rising upwardly from feed mechanism comprising a feed dog 28 will function in the throat openings 24 for giving the work the usual straightaway feed across the throat plate portion 23 in a direction from the front edge 2| toward the rear edge 22. The feed mechanism or dog 28 oscillates with the well-known four-motion action so that during the feeding strokes thereof the feed teeth or racks 24a, and 21 functioning in the openings 24 will advance the work with an intermittent feeding movement rearwardly toward the rear edge 22 of the integral throat plate portion 23.

For trimming the work, I provide pinking mechanism comprising a circular closed pinking ring 29 which is disposed in an-annular race 38 provided in the base plate; and the top of this ring throughout its entire circular extent is formed with upwardly faced or presented cutting teeth 29' designed inaccordance with the design of the trim to be produced on the edges of the work. This circular closed pinking ring serves as a bottom cutter whereby to trim the work being fed by the feedmechanism and just after the work has been stitched by the stitching mechanism. According to my invention motion is communicated from the four-motion oscillation action of the feed dog for bodily revolving the pinking ring in its race and in the direction indicated by the arrow- 3l. Any suitable antifriction means may be employed for supporting the ring for revolvingmovement in its race, and for this purpose I disclose in the present embodiment a circular series of very small or fine bearing rollers 32 contained in a suitable hearing retainer 33 and disposed in the race underneath the ring closely adjacent to the outer peripheral edge thereof, and it will be noted in this connection that the cutting teeth 29 on the top of the ring are also at the outer peripheral edge of the ring. By thus supporting the ring on anti-friction bearing means located directly below the cutting teeth and as closely as possible to the outer peripheral edge of the ring, the mechanical pressing force which is exerted downwardly upon the upwardly presented teeth for trimming work thereon, as will be presently referred to, is imposed directly upon the anti-friction means which supports the ring for bodily rotation, thus obviating possible distortion of the cutting teeth.

The transmission means for revolving the ring in the direction of the arrow 3| includes, in the form of construction under consideration, a circular closed clutch ring 34 which is disposed in an annular inner concentric race 35 provided in the base plate 20. At equi-spaced intervals, the clutch ring 34 has provided therein recesses 36 which extend radially inwardly from the outer circumference of this ring. Slidably disposed in each of these recesses for radial movement is a dog or detent 3'! having a tooth 38 adapted to engage with the ratchet teeth 39 on the inner periphery of the pinking ring 29. This circular series of ratchet teeth and cooperating dogs are so arranged that when oscillating back-andforth motion is given to the clutch ring 34 intermittent revolving motion in the direction of the arrow 3| will be imparted to the pinking ring.

Each of the dogs 3'! is urged radially outwardly by a spring 40 arranged in the recess 36. The arrangement of the ratchet teeth 39 and of the toothed dogs is such that when the clutch ring is moved reversely the teeth on the dogs will slide over the ratchet teeth. Means are provided whereby positively to prevent any reverse movement of the pinking ring with the reverse movement of the clutch ring, and the means to this end herein shown consists of a pawl 4| piv-,

oted on base plate 20, which is urged outwardly by a spring 42 whereby to engage the pawl oint with the ratchet teeth 39, the arrangement obviously being such that during the turning of the pinking ring in the direction of the arrow 31- the pawl point will slip over the ratchet teeth. To provide clearance for the pawl 4| and its actuating movements, the clutch ring is suitably cut away at 43. With this transmission arrangement, through oscillating back and forth move-,

ments of the clutch ring, the pinking ring will be revolved intermittently in the direction of the arrow 3|.

The clutch ring with its associated transmission parts together with the plain inner marginal portion of the pinking ring, that is to say, that top portion of the pinking ring which lies inwardly of the raised upwardly faced cutting teeth, are covered by the circular marginal portion of a plate 45 in conjunction with the circular marginal portion of a casting body or superstructure 46; said plate and said superstructure being fixed to the base plate 20 and meeting in tight contact along their straight inner edges, each of these parts having, as shown in plan in Fig. 1,.

the shape substantially of a half moon. The body or superstructure 46 is provided with a vertical groove 4? of substantial width, extending to the rear thereof and beginning behind the front portion or Wall 41' of the body. Pressing means comprising a vertically rockable presser frame is provided; said means consisting. of a rock shaft 58 which extends across the groove 41 and is rockably journaled in bearings 49 provided in the rear portion of the body; an overhanging arm 50 which is fixed at one end to the rock shaft at the left hand side of the body so as to operate in the space at that. side of the body, which overhanging arm carries at its outer end above the teeth of the pinking wheel a presser roller element and a leveror actuator 52 which is secured to the rock shaft to move vertically in the groove All, this lever gradually diminishing in vertical thickness towards the front end thereof as shown in Fig. 2 and its top portion being curved as. at 53 to provide a camming surface. This rockable frame, is resiliently maintained in elevated position, ready for a downward pressing stroke; by a spring 55 which is imprisoned'between thebottom portion of the groove 41 and'the under portion of the lever 52, as illustrated in Fig. 2. 55 denotes an operating lever or latch which is adapted for its operation to be grasped by the fingers. This latch is mounted for swinging movement at its rear end upon a pin 56 which extends across the groove ll and is secured in the body. Threaded for adjustment within the latch55 at a point just forwardly of the pin 56 is a screw-51 the lower end of which is in engagement with the curved surface 53 of the actuator lever. This screw serves as a stop whereby to limit'the springurged elevated movement of the rockablymounted frame and hence by its adjustment the position of the roller 5| above the pinking wheel may be determined. Moreover, the screw 51 which is angularly disposed for operation upon the curved surface 53, has another function in that when the latch is moved downwardly to force the roclnng frame downwardly against the resistance of the spring 54, to cause the roller 5| to press the work firmly upon the cutting teeth, the lower end of the screw acting on the curved surface 53 will have a cam action locking effect thereon whereby to maintain the rocking frame in its pressing position until the latch 55 is manually moved upwardly for swinging the lower end of the screw from its cam action locking engagement with the curved surface 53.

At this point, it is desired to observe with reference to the present embodiment that the point of the orbit at which the pinking ring makes its nearest approach to the seam which is stitched by the needle 25, is extremely close to that particular feed rack which, being herein particularly designated for identification as 24a, is located in straightaway alignment with the needle opening 25 at the rear thereof; and further that the overhanging arm 59, curving forwardly and to the left carries the roller 5| in such position that it will make pressure upon the cutting teeth closely adjacent to the rear section of the feed rack 24a. This arrangement makes it possible for the work to be trimmed substantially instantaneously after the stitching thereof and very close to the line of stitching. Preferably as shown, the roller includes in its construction an anti-friction bearing 58 interposed between a fixed part and its circumferential portion which turns upon the work. This provides for easy turning of that portion of the roller which actually contacts with the work irrespective of the degree of downward pressure exerted by the pressing frame. Through the adjustment of the screw 51 the pressure which is to be exerted upon the work may be regulated and this screw through its adjustment also provides means whereby to position the presser roller for the accommodation of different thicknesses of work as may be desired.

A driving connection is provided between the four-motion oscillation action feed dog 28 and the clutch ring 34; this connection consisting in the provision upon the feed dog of an upwardly extending tongue 59 which passes upwardly through a suitableopening 60 in the base plate and has I verticalsliding engagement with the walls 6| of a keeper or opening provided in the clutch ring. The tongue 59 is carried by a horizontal portion 62 on the rail 63 which is connected to the feed dog by means of pins 54. Under this arrangement, the clutch is oscillated back and forth in accompaniment with the retracting and forward feeding movements of the feed dog, the tongue 59 sliding vertically between the Walls 6| in accompaniment with the up and down movements of the feed dog.

In Figs. 6, 7 and 8, I show a feed dog provided with a plurality of separate independently mova ble rack fingers 55 by means of which a pinking ring having underneath ratchet teeth 66 may be operated directly by and in accompaniment with the feeding movements of the feed dog. With the use of this rack finger type of feed dog, it will be appreciated that the clutch ring and transmission dogs associated therewith may be entirely eliminated. In Figs. 6 and 7, it will be seen that for the carrying out of this arrangement, the circular series of underneath teeth 65 are provided inwardly of the anti-friction bearing means 51 whereon the ring is supported for its revolving movement and which receives the pressing force of the pressing frame. The rack fingers 65 are disposed in parallel relation and mounted at one end on a pin 58 for vertical movement, the free ends of these fingers being toothed as at 69 for engagement with the power-receiving teeth 66 of the pinking wheel. These rack fingers are normally urged upwardly into position for engagement with the teeth 66 by means of individual springs 19 and at the extreme free ends of these fingers there are shoulders ll adapted to abut against the bottom of the base plate whereby to limit the upwardly urged movements of the fingers at the particular place where they will best interengage with the teeth 66. The pin 58 on which the fingers are vertically movable is mounted in an extension 12 of the feed dog. These independently movable feed dog rack fingers afford means for compensating for the difference in angular relation between the radial power receiving teeth 65 of the pinking ring and the teeth 69 upstanding from the fingers. The arrangement also provides for a quiet operation of the pinking ring directly by the feed dog, and it will be understood in this connection that the teeth of the rack fingers have motion transmitting engagement withthe power-receiving teeth of the pinking ring only during the feeding strokes or movements of the feed dog.

In Fig. 9, I illustrate another form of construction for controlling and regulating the operation of the swingable presser frame. In this instance, the manually operated latch 13 is provided with a cam portion 14 which cooperates with an inclined surface '15 on the end of an intermediate lever 18 mounted intermediate its length upon a pin T! for rocking movement. The latch member 13 is mounted by a pivot 18 to the top end of a post 19 fixed at its bottom to the superstructure and extending upwardly through the groove or cavity 80. The pivot 11. of the intermediate lever 16 is fixed in and extends between vfurcations 8| of the actuator lever82 by which the presser frame is rocked in a downward direction. A spring 83 acts upon oneof the furcations 8| to maintain the frame in elevated position reday for its downward movement. The means whereby to regulate the range of movement of the frame consists in a screw 84 which is threaded downwardly through the rear end of the intermediate lever 16 and into a forward projection formed for the purpose on the actuator lever 82. When the latch 13 is swung downward as shown in Fig. 9, the frame will be moved downward into pressure exerting position and the cam portion 14 acting upon the beveled surface 15 will maintain the frame locked in its pressing position until the latch is again swung upward to permit elevation of the frame by means of spring 83.

In Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13, I'show another form of construction for communicating power to the pinking ring, this form of construction comprising a clutch ring 85 oscillatably disposed in a race 86 provided in the base plate concentrically with the race for the pinking ring. This clutch ring at equi-distant intervals is provided with circumferential recesses 81 having inclined wall portions 88. Within each recess 81 is a ball element 89 and a spring 98 which urges the ball into the narrowing space between the inclined wall portions 88 and the inner plain periphery of the pinking ring. In this arrangement, the recesses with their inclined wall portions 88 are so arranged that whenv the clutch ring is moved in the circular direction indicated by the arrow 9| the balls through their wedging action will cause the pinking ring to be moved in the same direction, whereas on the reverse movement of the clutch ring, the balls, moving into the widening portions of the recesses, will cease to have wedging action so that the pinking ring will not be moved reversely. In this construction, the clutch ring 85 is represented as being provided with a downwardly extending tongue 92 which fits in a notch or keeper 93 provided for the purpose in the extension 94 of the feed dog. By means of the tongue 92 the clutch ring is given oscillating back and forth movements in accompaniment with the retracting and feeding movements of the feed dog while to compensate for the up and down movements of the feed dog said tongue 92 has sliding fit in the opening 93. In this embodiment of the invention, it will be noted that the pinking ring is mounted upon an anti-friction bearing device consisting of very fine ball bearings 95 contained in a cage 96. is disposed under the pinking ring at the outer circumferential portion thereof, as shown in Fig. 12.

In trimming the edges of some kinds of work, for instance flimsy work, there is a slight tendency for the pinking ring under its intermittent revolving movements to draw the stitched work somewhat away from its straightaway feeding movement. In order to prevent such displacement of the work, I may provide, as shown in Fig. 1, a guide 91 against which the edge of the feeding work will contact. This guide is connected at right angles to a stem 98 which is detachably fitted in a bore 99 provided in the front wall 4'! of the superstructure. The bore in the front portion of the superstructure may also be used for other purposes, such for instance as receiving the stem I90 of a known Workfolding or hemming device l! (Fig. 14), or the stem I02 of a known work-binding device I03 This anti-friction bearing device (Fig.1 15). My improved pinking .device, in its several forms of construction, therefore provides means for supporting known instrumentalities for folding, hemming or binding the work in the usual way prior to the stitching and pinking operations.

It is characteristic of my novel pinking ring,

1 Whether it be provided with internal ratchet teeth,

or with underneath ratchet teeth, or without any power-receiving teeth, that it consists of a thin ring, relatively narrow between its outer and inner peripheries and having a relatively large interior opening. In producing pinking wheels and pinking disks of known type, much difficulty is experienced in cutting the pinking teeth designed to correspond tothe particular design of trim which is to be produced on the edges of the work; and also in hardening the teeth Without hardening the disk or the wheel. My improved pinking wheel provides a device of this character which may be readily and inexpensively produced, since pinking teeth of the desired design may be readily cut on the outer top surface next to the'outer periphery and may be readily and uniformly hardened without hardening the body of the ring itself, due to the fact that this comparatively thin bodied ring, relatively narrow between its inner and outer peripheries and having a large interior space, may be handled and operated upon during the various processes to which" it must be subjected in order to produce uniformly hardened pinking teeth of the desired design upon a non-hardened ring body.

The flat, disk-like trimming member rotating in the horizontal plane of the base plate, was

first disclosed to the art in Patent No. 1,973,888, issued to me on Sept. 18, 1934. The new form of narrow, annular trimming member or pinking ring of this application, has, for many reasons, been found preferable. Thus, in addition to the advantage of enabling the trimming member to be produced by a simpler and less expensive method of .manufacture, with longer life and greater efficiency. in operation, the actuating means for said member or ring may be very compactly mounted and arranged within the ring itself, so that the several parts of said actuating means and said ring are all positioned in a common horizontal plane. Thus the mechanism is not liable to functional disorganization due to severe vibrations commonly encountered in large industrial establishments.

In the present embodiment of my invention, the pinking ring has an internal radius which equals .four times thewidth of the ring body.

' This construction not only results in an appreciable economy, but also enables the cutting teeth of the ring to be properly heat treated and hardened by a very simple and inexpensive method, which cannot be employed with a trimming mem .ber of the disk type.

Further this new form of pinking ring makes it possible for me to mount and arrange the several instrumentalities constituting the work guiding and pressing means, substantially wholly within the area bounded by the outer periphery of the pinking ring. As will be seen from reference to Fig. 2 of the drawings, the elevation of this work pressing means above the base plate 20 is very slight. Therefore, the worker is afforded a clear, unobstructed view of the work as the sewing and pinking operations are performed, and the Work may be handled and guided over the base plate 20 with greater ease and facility than is possible in the use of'otherat'tachments heretofore devised for this purpose.

As many changes could be made in the above construction and many apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope thereof, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description and shown in the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense. Moreover, the terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention in the use of such terms and expressions, of excludingany equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but realize that various modifications are proper within the scope of the invention claimed.

I claim:-

1. In a pinking device which includes with a base oscillating feed mechanism having feeding movements for feeding work over the base, a re- I volvable pinking element in the form of a flat circular closed pinkingv ring forming a bottom cutter located horizontally in the base to receive and trim work being fed by the feed mechanism, clutch means having connection with the feed mechanism for oscillating said clutch in connection with the oscillation of the feed mechanism, said means including relatively movable selfactive transmission parts having operation in an opening in the base for directly engaging the pinking ring and causing revolving movements thereof substantially concurrently with the feed ing movements of the feed mechanism.

2. In combination with a base plate, a flat, circular closed pinking ring disposed horizontally in a race therein for revolving movement as a bottom cutter, operating means for the ring associated with the plate to work in an opening therein in communication with the race and comprising a unit transmission device having a plurality of independently acting transmission parts adapted each to revolve the ring by direct action engagement therewith, and means for operating said unit transmission device.

3. In a pinking device, the combination of a base having an annular race, a flat, circular closed pinking ring having upwardly presented pinking teeth exposed at the top of the base disposed in the race for revolving movement therein as a bottom cutter, feeding means having an upwardly presented feed portion exposed at the top of the base for feeding work thereon and upon the pinking teeth of the ring, and means under the control of the feed mechanism for imparting to the ring revolving movements synchronized with the feeding strokes of the feed mechanism, said means comprising in one unit a plurality of independently acting transmission parts each of which drives by direct action engagement with the ring itself.

4. In a pinking device, the combination of a base having inner and outer annular races, ring elements disposed in the races for revolving movement, one of the ring elements having on its top surface upwardly presented cutting teeth in relation to the top surface of the base, feed mechanism associated with the base and having means for acting on the second ring element to oscillate it thereby, and operable means in the base acting between the two ring elements for causing the ring element with the cutting teeth to be intermittently revolved in one direction by the oscillating movements of the second ring element. Y

5. In a pinking device, the combination with a base plate and a fiat annular pinking ring revolvable in an annular race therein as a bottom cutter, anti-friction bearing means supporting the ring adjacent its outer periphery, feed mechanism associated with the plate for feeding work, and a unit transmission device operatively connected with the feed mechanism, said unit transmission device having a plurality of parts arranged to move separately and independently and each adapted, when the unit transmission device is moved in one direction, to effect direct action engagement with the ring and revolve the same in one direction, said parts for engaging the ring working in an opening in the plate, which opening is in communication with said race.

6. A pinking device having, in combination, a base plate, a fiat annular pinking ring revolvable in an annular race therein as a bottom cutter adapted to trim the work, anti-friction means supporting the ring adjacent its outer periphery, feed mechanism associated with the plate for feeding work on the bottom cutter, a unit transmission device operatively connected with the feed mechanism for oscillation therewith and including a plurality of parts movable separately and independently and each adapted, when the device is moved in one direction, to effect direct action engagement with the ring and revolve the same in one direction, said parts for engaging the ring working in an opening in the plate, which opening is in communication with said race and pressing means mounted upon the plate and carrying a rotatable roller for pressing the work downwardly upon the bottom cutter to cause trimming of the work thereby.

7. In a pinking device, feed mechanism for feeding work and a movable pinking element forming a bottom cutter for trimming the work and provided with power-receiving teeth, clutch means actuated by the feed mechanism, said means comprising a plurality of independently movable rack fingers adapted on the feeding movements of the feed mechanism to gear with said power-receiving teeth and move said pinking element.

8. In a pinking device, feed mechanism having feeding movements for feeding work and a flat annular pinking ring revolvable as a bottom outter for trimming the work and provided with power-receiving teeth, a cooperating clutch ring within the circle of the pinking ring connected with and actuated by said feed mechanism, and transmission means between the two rings adapted on the movements of the clutch ring in one direction to gear with said power-receiving teeth for imparting revolving movements to said pinking ring,

9. In a pinking device, feed mechanism having feeding movement for feeding work and a flat annular pinking ring revolvable as a bottom outter for trimming the work, a cooperating clutch ring connected with and actuated by said feed mechanism, and slip transmission mechanism associated with said clutch ring for imparting revolving movement in one direction to said pinking ring, comprising a spring-urged transmission member disposed in a tapering recess to have wedging action against said pinking ring when said clutch ring moves in one direction and to be freed from its wedging action when said clutch ring moves in the opposite direction, said clutch ring with said transmission member, being encircled by said pinking ring.

10. In a pinking device, a circular pinking ring forming a bottom cutter, a second ring,.means supporting the two rings in concentric relation for revolving movements, means for oscillating the second ring, and means arranged to operate between the two rings for imparting to the pinking ring in one direction intermittent revolving movements by the oscillating movements of the second ring.

11. In a pinking device, a circular pinking ring forming a bottom cutter, a second ring within the circle of the pinking ring, means supporting the two rings for revolving movements, means associated with said supporting means for feeding work upon a portion of the bottom cutter, means for oscillating the second ring, means arranged to operate between the two rings for imparting to the pinking ring intermittent revolving movements only in one direction by the oscillating movements of the second ring, and means mounted upon the supporting means for pressing uponthe bottom cutter the work fed thereon by the feeding means,

12. A pinking device having a supporting plate, two rings disposed therein for revolving movement, one comprising an annular pinking ring having teeth faced upwardly to afford a bottom cutter, the other ring comprising a driven ring, located within the circle of the bottom cutter, transmission means between the two rings having arrangement so that as the driven ring is given alternate revolving movements the pinking ring will be given revolving movements only in one direction, and an actuating member for. the driven ring, extending thereto through an opening in the plate and adapted to receive movements for imparting alternate revolving movements to said driven ring 13. A pinking device having a supporting plate, two rings disposed therein for revolving movement, one comprising a pinking ring having adjacent its outer peripheral edge upwardly faced teeth to afford a bottom cutter, anti-friction bearing means placed under and supporting the pinking ring adjacent its outer peripheral edge, the other ring comprising a driven ring within the circle of the pinking ring, transmission means arranged between and coacting .with the two rings to transmit intermittent revolving movements from the driven ring to the pinking ring in one direction, a member movable in an opening in the plate and coacting with the driven ring to impart revolving movements to said driven ring, and means mounted upon the plate for pressing work upon the cutter and acting down-v wardly to exert its pressural force thereon over said bearing means on which the pinking ring is supported.

14. A pinking device having a supporting plate, a pinking ring disposed therein for revolving movement and having adjacent one peripheral edge upwardly faced teeth to afford a bottom cutter, anti-friction bearing means supporting the pinking ring adjacent said peripheral edge, the underface of said ring being provided with power-receiving teeth adjacent its other peripheral edge, driving means adapted to operate in an opening in said plate and to gear with said powerreceiving teeth for imparting revolving movement to said ring, and means mounted upon the plate for pressing work upon the cutter and acting downwardly to exert its pressing force thereon over said bearing means on which the ring is supported.

15. The combination of a base plate'having a movable pinking element with upwardly faced teeth forming a bottom cutter, framing rising from the base and carrying a rock shaft, an overhanging arm fixed to said shaft and carrying a roller above said cutter, a lever extending from said shaft by which to move the same, and a manually operated latch pivoted to the framing for engaging and moving said lever and hence said shaft and arm to cause said roller to press work upon the cutter.

16. In combination, a movably supported pinking device forming a bottom cutter, a stationary support, a pressing frame mounted on the support to swing downward and carrying an arm with a roller for pressing work upon the cutter, an actuating lever movable with and projecting from the frame, a finger-piece connected by a pivot to the support and having a part to engage said lever and swing the frame downward into pressing position, said finger-piece being effective to lock the frame in pressing position.

17. A pinking device comprising a presser frame having a pressing movement, actuated by a factor to be controlled, resilient means resisting the pressing movement of the frame, an operating-member movable on a pivot and having a part extending from it engaging said factor for moving'the same and effecting against the resistance of the resilient means, pressing movement of the presser frame, said part being adjustable whereby to regulate the range of effective pressing movement of the presser frame.

18. Pressing means having pressing movement and which includes a control member, actuated by a lever to be controlled, resilient means resisting the-pressing movement of the pressing means, an operating member movable on a pivot and having a part extending from it engaging said lever for moving the same whereby to effect the pressing movement of the pressing means against the resistance of the resilient means, said part having a camming action on said lever and being effective to lock said lever at the limit of the pressing movement.

19. Ina sewing machine and in combination. stitching mechanism and feed mechanism for the work, a circular closed pinking ring revolved from the-feed mechanism and forming a horizontally disposed bottom cutter on which work is fed by the-feed mechanism, means for pressing the work upon the cutter, said cutter and pressingmeans being arranged and coacting to trim the work after the stitching of the same by the stitching mechanism, a base plate in which the cutter is operatively contained, means attached to the baseplate within the circle ofthe cutter operatively supporting the pressing mechanism, said supporting means having means for receiving a device adapted to fold and dispose the work for the stitching and trimming operations.

20.1'Pinking-means comprising a circular closed ring, relatively narrow between its outer and inner peripheries and having a circular series of hardened raised upwardly faced pinking teeth of a predetermined design on its top face, and its bottom face having directly beneath the circle of teeth an annular race adapted to receive therein circularly formed anti-friction bearing means for the support of the ring for revolving movement. 21. Pinking means comprising a circular closed ring, relatively narrow between its outer and inner peripheries and having a circular series of hardened raised upwardly faced pinking teeth of a predetermined design on its'top face with a plainmarginal portion between such teeth and its inner periphery, an annular race in the bottom face of said ring, out therein directly beneath the circle of teeth and adapted to receive therein circularly formed anti-friction bearing means for the support of the ring for revolving movement, and a circle of radial power-receiving teeth out in the bottom of the ring between the race and the inner periphery of the ring.

22. A pinking device which includes with a presser frame comprising an arm having a rotary pressing roller, a rock shaft to which the arm is attached, a first operating member attached to the shaft to move the same and provided with a projecting part, a second operating member movableon a pivot and having a camming member engaging said projecting part, whereby said first operating member and shaft are actuated to cause the arm and roller to assume pressure making position, said camming member in coaction with said projecting part being adapted to lock the presser frame when it has assumed its pressure making position.

23. A trimming member for sewing machines comprising a flat circular ring adapted to rotate in a horizontal plane having upon its top face a circumferentially extending succession of hardened raised upwardly faced pinking teeth and-a correspondingly located smooth bottom surface for contact with a supporting bearing, said ring being relatively narrow between its outer and inner peripheries to provide a relatively large enclosed area for operating means for the ring.

24. In a fabric trimming device, a flat, circular ring relatively narrow between its outer and inner peripheries and having on its top face hardened raised upwardly faced trimming teeth extending between said peripheries, means supporting the ring for rotation, means through which to rotate the ring located within the enclosed area thereof, and means for pressing fabric upon the trimming teeth of the ring including a cylindrical presser element.

25. In trimming mechanism for sewing machines, a fiat annular trimming member, and means circumscribed by said member, including releasably coacting parts, to impart rotary movement to said member.

26. In trimming mechanism for sewing machines, a flat annular trimming member, and means for imparting intermittent rotary movement to said member in one direction, including an oscillatable element mounted within said annular member.

27. In trimming mechanism for sewing machines, a flat circular trimming member and means for imparting intermittent rotary movement thereto, cooperatively mounted and supported upon the bed plate of the machine in a common horizontal plane.

28. In trimming mechanismfor sewing machines, a flat annular trimming member and means for intermittently rotating said member in one direction, including power actuated means mounted within said annular member and releasably coacting with means on the inner periphery thereof.

29. In a trimming attachment for sewing machines, a base plate, a circular pinking ring mounted thereon to revolve about a vertical axis and having pinking teeth on its top face, feed mechanism, including a feed dog movable in said base plate adjacent to said ring, for feeding work over the base plate and to the pinking teeth of the ring, and means within said ring operatively connected with the feed mechanism and controlling the operation of said pinking ring.

30. In a trimming attachment for sewing machines, a base plate, a trimming member mounted on said base plate and having trimming teeth provided with cutting edges disposed in a common horizontal plane parallel to the base plate, and means carried by said base plate and operatively movable in the plane thereof, to impart intermittent movement to said trimming member.

31. In a trimming device, a base plate, a flat annular trimming member mounted on the base plate to rotate in a horizontal plane and having cutting teeth on its top face extending to the outer periphery thereof, and radially disposed antifriction bearing members interposed between the base plate and trimming member directly beneath said cutting teeth.

32. In a trimming device, a base plate having a circular recess, a flat circular trimming member and a power operated unit for transmitting intermittent movement to said member cooperatively mounted therewith within said recess ofthe base plate.

33. In a trimming device, a base plate, a flat circular trimming member having cutting teeth and mounted to rotate in a plane parallel with said base plate, means for pressing work upon the teeth of said trimming member, and means for mounting said pressing means: with all of its parts positioned substantially within the area circumscribed by the outer periphery of said trimming member.

34. In a trimming device, a base plate, a fiat annular trimming member having cutting teeth and mounted to rotate in a plane parallel with said base plate, means mounted within said member and operating in the plane thereof to impart rotary movement to said member, means for pressing work upon the teeth of said trimming member, and means for mounting said pressing means with all of its parts positioned substantially within the area circumscribed by the outer periphery of said trimming member.

35. In a trimming device, a base plate, a flat circular trimming member having cutting teeth and. mounted to rotate in a plane parallel with said base plate, means for pressing work upon the teeth of said trimming member, including an arm positioned in a plane substantially parallel with and closely adjacent to the plane of said trimming member, and means for mounting said pressing means with all of its parts positioned substantially within the area circumscribed by the outer periphery of said trimming member.

36. A fabric trimming member comprising a narrow flat circular ring adapted to rotate in a horizontal plane, and having a circumferential succession of cutting teeth on its top face, extending across the major portion of its width and to the outer periphery thereof, the opposite face of said ring, directly beneath the cutting teeth, having a plain surface for engagement with antifriction bearing means.

3'7. A fabric trimming member, comprising a flat annular body having a circumferential succession of cutting teeth extending across the major portion of one side face thereof between its inner and outer edges, the internal radius of said member being a multiple of the width of said annular body, and said member having means on its inner edge for engagement by clutch means operating within said annular body.

38. In a pinking device of the kind described, a bottom cutter in the form of a circular closed ring, an oscillating driving element, transmission means between said element and ring whereby to drive the latter, including a part oscillating with the element in juxtaposed relation with the ring, a plurality of relatively movable transmission connections associated with and operated- -by said part, and means for positioning said connections in driving engagement with the ring independently of the movemets of said part.

39. In combination with a four-motion feed dog and a rotatably mounted trimming cutter, a plurality of driving members carried by the feed associated with the inner ring for driving action engagement thereby, said connections being mov-- able in peripheral openings in the inner ring and displaceable for driving action engagement with the cutter to cause revolving movement of the same, resilient springs normally displacing said connections and compressible through the backward strokes of said inner ring.

41. In combination, a flat circular closed ring with top teeth to serve as a bottom cutter and enclosing a large central area, a clutch ring located in the central area within the inner periphery of the cutter, means for oscillating the clutch ring, together with a series of transmission members movable in the clutch ring in openings therein facing the inner periphery of the cutter, resilient means in the openings normally urging said members into engagement with the inner periphery of the cutter whereby to rotate the cutter with the clutch ring, said cutter, clutch ring and transmission members lying in a com mon plane.

42. In combination, a flat circular closed pinking ring having toppinking teeth and power receiving teeth associated with its inner periphery entirely around the ring, driving means, a plurality of transmission members carried thereby and adapted for engagement with said power receiving teeth, spring means acting on the transmission members to cause the latter to assume positionsin which they will engage said power receiving teeth and so drive said ring from force delivered thereto at its inner periphery, said spring means being yieldable to permit the release of the driving engagement of the transmission members.

VICTOR J. SIGODA.

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