US2131707A

US2131707A - Foundation garment for women

Info

Publication number: US2131707A
Application number: US103245A
Authority: US
Inventors: Leonard Joseph
Original assignee: CHARIS CORP
Current assignee: CHARIS Corp
Priority date: 1936-09-30
Filing date: 1936-09-30
Publication date: 1938-09-27
Anticipated expiration: 1955-09-27
Also published as: GB485942A

Description

Sept. 27, 1938. J. LEONARD FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 30, 1936 YINVENTOR. Lea/7dr Joseph A TTORNEYS.

Sept. 27, 1938. J. LEbNARD 2,131,707

FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN 'Filed Sept. 30, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 iNVENToR.

Jaseph z eonard ATTORNEYS Se t. 27, 1938. J EONARD I 2,131,707

FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1936 6 Sheets-She et 5 INVENTOR Joseph Lea/70rd ATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. J. LEONARD FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Sept. 30, 1956 INVENTOR; Jasep/r Lea/74rd ATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. .1. LEONARD FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN '6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Sept. 30, 1936 1N VENTOR. Joseph Lea/Yard 5 7 w ATTORNEYS Sept. 27; 1938'. A D 2,131,707

FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1956 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR. Joseph Lea/74rd BY I ATTORNEYS.

Patented Sept. 27, 1938 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOME Joseph Leonard, Allentown, Pa., assignor to Charis Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application September so, 1936, Serial No; 103,245

7 Claims.

This invention relates to foundation garments for women wherein such support is given to the figure that its graceful and hygienic line of contour is maintained in sitting as well as in standing position.

While the normal inward curve of the back at the waistline is one of the characteristics of the figure which gives grace and beauty, its importance to health is so well recognized in the medical profession that it is stressed even in the most elemental textbooks on physiology. The

slouching sitting posture with the lumbar curve straightened or reversed not only tends to bring about or prolong many of the spinal and sacroiliac ailments arising from misplacement of the bony structure with the nervous disorders incidental thereto, but is likely to result in organic troubles perhaps more especially with women than with men.

One of the objects of this invention is to provide a foundation garment which tends to pre vent a slouching position in sitting and to maintain the lumbar curve in both standing and sitting positions while at the same time serving its purpose as a foundation garment in giving to the figure or maintaining therein lines of grace and beauty to accord with artistic requirements.

In sitting position there occurs a relaxation of certain of the shoulder and chest muscles supporting the upper ribs and shoulder blades and of the so-called skin muscles (platysma myoides) extending downwardly from the neck which contribute to thesupport of the breasts. This relaxation causes a slight drooping forward of the shoulders and a tilting downward of the bustline (the horizontal line from the tip of the breasts back through the'figure) in sitting position.

One of the objects of this invention is to provide a support for the breasts which will permit of this normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders and tilting downward of the bustline in sitting position and which will at the same time cooperate with the other features of the foundation garment in maintaining the lumbar curve.

The normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders in sitting position where a corset of the ordinary type is worn, especially if the corset is provided with boning, results in the upper rear edge of the corset protruding and breaking the line of the outer garments in a very unsightly manner.

One of the objects of this invention is to provide a structure which prevents the rearward protrusion of the top of the garment when the wearer is in sitting position.

Coincident with the slight drooping forward of the shoulders and the tilting downward of the bustline in sitting position the muscular structure of the buttocks and lower back is considerably extended both vertically and laterally. Present-day corsets for the most part extend well below the buttocks with the boning curved inwardly at the bottom, and in assuming a sitting position this muscular extension pulls downwardly the corset along the waistline and upper back, causes an unhygienic and discomforting pressure on the breasts and tends to preventthe normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders and the tilting downward of the bustline as above set forth. 7

One of the objects of this'in'vention is to provide for the drawing down of the corset in assuming sitting position without interfering with the normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders and the tilting down of the bustline and in so doing to construct the garment insuch away as to tend to maintain thelumbar curve in both standing and sitting positions as heretofore referred to.

Another object'of this invention is, while preserving and providing for the objects heretofore specified, to provide a boning reenforcement of the garment structure at the back whioh'will bridge the waistline and will tend to keep the 7 lower part of the shoulders in vertical alignment with the rearward extremities ofthe buttocks.

Further objects of this invention will become apparent without specific mention'as the disclosure hereofproc'eeds. In carrying out the objects of the invention I have developed a novel combination corset brassiere in which what may betermed the corset member terminates in the front and sides slightly below the lower borderlineof the. breasts and in the back extendsto a position well above the waistline and preferably to a 'line'approximately midway between the top of the ilia and the lower marginof the scapulae, withvariations prefer-' ably above thattline rather than below it. The corset member atthefback is preferably. pro-L vided with boning which spans the waistline and extends upward substantially to the top edge of the back portion. The back portion is, however, so constructed as to exert-little or'no pressure laterally on the breasts or across the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts. T

The brassiere member of the garment encircles the body with its lower border likewise well above, the waistline. It overlaps the back of thecorset member in both standing and sittingrpositions of the wearer and has vertical movement relative to the back portion of the corset member to accommodate the various postures of the body so that the upper portion of the back in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region is supported in proper position bythe cooperative action of both the brassire and corset members.

In the front the brassiere member is provided above with the usual breast pockets, beneath which it encompasses the upper part of the diaphragm and the region immediately below the breasts. In point of structure in the front the brassire member may conveniently be made integral with the corset member and this unity of structure may or may not characterize the side portions of the brassire member and corset member toward the front. In either event, pivotal connections are provided between the brassire member and the corset member, one on each side at the bottom of the brassiere mem-' ber either at the sides of; the garment or slightly to the rear thereof, depending on the points of permanent attachment of; the brassire member to the corset member. It is about these pivotal connections that the brassiere member moves in accommodating itself to the various positions of the breasts and body, in standing, bending and sitting; and it is by reason of these pivotal connections that the brassire and corset members are maintained in their proper relation regardless of the position of the'body. The brassiere member is provided with shoulder straps in the usual manner.

The structure and proportions of the parts are such that in standing and sitting positions and in the various postures in going from the, one position to the other, the support of the foundation garment as a whole is continuous and unbroken, and whileQthe brassiere member tilts are they characterized by the structurev of myinvention hereinabove generally explained. In many cases-the corset member terminated ap proximately at or below the waistline so that there was a break in the support for the back of the wearer at the point where the support is most needed, from the standpoint 'ofboth proper' posture and good lines. If boning were employed the upper ends of the boning tended 'toipress into the back of the wearer and cause great-discomfort.

set construction, with the result that the bras-z sire member was either firmly attached to the corset member throughout the 'frontand side portions of the corset well" toward the back thereof,

so that the pivotal movement above set forthwas impossible, or was'merely attached 'to-the front of thecorset' member with" the back of the brassire' member having "no functional relation whatever with the'supporting characteristics of theback portion of the corset member. My in-' vention' should not, therefore; be confused with theexamples of the prior'art just set forth.

The tilting of the bustline' on assuming sitting position in its relation to the lumbar curve wasapparently never before appreciated in cor- In the drawings which form a part of this application, I have illustrated two forms of combination corset brassires embodying the various characteristics of my invention above set forth. The drawings, however, are intended for illustrativepurpose only and no limitations on the invention should be construed. therefrom either in respect to the details of construction of the two particular garments shown or as to those garments as types. In these drawings,

Figure 1 is a front elevation of one form of garment embodying my invention-with the wearer i i-standing position; i

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the garment of Fig. 1, with the wearer in standing position; Fig. 2a is a view corresponding with Fig. 2 and shows in rear elevation the second form of garment embodying my invention hereinbefore referredto; and

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig. l, withthe wearer in'standing position and with the upper arms of the wearer in substantially horizontal position;

Fig. 3a is a view corresponding with Fig. 3 and shows in side elevation the garment of Fig. 2a.

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig. 1-, with the wearer sitting and with the upper arms of the wearer in the position of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the garment of Fig. 1-, with the wearerin sitting position and the arms relaxed in substantially vertical position; 1 j

I Fig. 6 is a perspective of the garment of Fig. 1,

showing a rear side viewwith the wearer in sitting position and the arms relaxed with the hands resting on the knees; V V

Fig. '7 is aview similar to Fig. 6 with the brassiere member of the garment of Fig. 1 cut apart vertically near the center line of the back to show the upper part of the corset member and toillustrate the failure of support afforded by the upper 'part of the corset member in the absence of thecooperating action of the brassire member;

Fig. 8 is an elevational view of the garment modeled in the first seven figures opened out and showing the interior of the garment;

' Fig.9 is 'adetailed View illustrating the par ticular type of pivotal connection between the brassire member and the corset member employed in the garment of Fig. 1;

The standing figures in the front and rear views are turned slightly to the side for clearness of illustration.

' Referring'more particularly to the drawings, the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, and its operation-will first be described in detail.

The corset member The corset member A in general construction follows more or less conventional lines except as to its upper portion above the waistline indi-' cated by the dot and dash line bb. Thus, the

V corset member is composed of a series of strips of fabric and elastic sewed together and bound with taping as is customary in the modern art of corsetry, with stocking supporters attached to the lower border and being sufficiently long to encompass the buttocks and the upper portion of the thighs, so that ,in sitting position the corset member extends forwardly beyond the points of the ischia and is firmly maintained in position by the weight of the wearer;

More particularly, the back of the corset member is formed with a center panel of fabric Ill and two side panels llil firmly stitchedthereto. The side portions of the corset member comprise each an elastic strip l2 which extends fromthe top to the bottom of the corset member andis stitched to the fabric panel l l of the back, and a fabric strip 13 which is stitched on the one side to the elastic strip ll. One of the sideportions is stitched to the front of the corset member, and the other is provided with a reenforced underlying and projecting band M to constitute the fastening edge of the corset member, eyes l5l5 being provided at suitable intervals along the edge of the fabric strip l3, the particular garment shown being a side opening garment.

The front of the corset member'comprises a center panel of fabric 20 conveniently made of two vertical strips as illustrated, permanently stitched together and at the bottom provided with a triangular elastic gusset 2| extending approximately one-third of the distance from the bottom to the waistline. The center panel at the top merges into and comprises the lower center part of the brassiere'member. On each side of the center panel is another panel of fabric 22 which is firmly stitched to the center panel on the one side. On the other side one of the said panels 22 is stitched to the fabric side strip I3 as just above stated, and the other, of said panels 2 2 provided with an underlying band 23 to which is attached the hooks 24 which cooperate with the eyes I5l5 in fastening and unfastening the corset member.

The seams by which the various portions of the corset member are attached together are bound with tape when desired in the usual manner, and there is a binding of tape along the top and bottom of the fabric portions.

The stocking supporters 30 are attached to the bottom of the corset member in connection with the binding, two at the back, two at the front, and one oneach side.

The upper part of the corset member above the waistline b b, though following presentday manufacturing practice, differs radically from other garments known to me. While its construction and form are such as to cooperate with the brassiere member 'of the garment in affording the support to the back of the wearerand in maintaining its proper contour. as above" set forth, the back portion of the corset member is so related to the front portion thereof as to avoid lateral pressure from the corset memberitself across the breasts and the upper chest wall immediately beneath the breasts.

In furtherance of the avoiding ofsuch lateral pressure, the upwardly extending portion of the back is centrally provided with a notch 35 and the sides of the corset member (the two strips, one of elastic l2 and theother of fabric l3 comprising each side) are cut away downwardly as at 36 from their upper point of attachment to the back to points below the line of the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts. From the junction of the front portion of the corset member with the fabric strips l3 of theside portions (by stitching on the one side and by the hook and eye attachment means on the other), the front panels 22 slope upwardly as at 38 to their point of attachment to the center panel 2ll.

The upwardly extending portion of the back of the corset member terminates in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region of the back, slightly aboveithe midway line between the tip of the ilia and the lower margin of the scapulae, as above set forth.

sides of the corset member just described have their edges suitably bound as is desired.

Thecenter panel 20 ofthe front of thecorset member extends upwardly above the panels 22 -22 and is formedon. its upper margin with curves 40 which terminate centrally in 'a point lying between the breasts. This upper margin of the panelis attached to the bottom of the breast pockets, later to be described, by suitable stitch- The corset member is preferably provided with adequate boning to reenforce the supporting and figure-forming functions of the garment as a whole. Whilethe amount'of boning is somewhat dependent on the design and size of the garment,-

the preferred boning in.the style of garment shown in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, is as illustrated. In the back portion of the corset member at'the extreme edge of the'panels I l-where the back portion is joined to the side portions, the bones -d5 are placed. At the extreme edges of the center panel H! where that panel is attached to the panels II the bones 4646 are placed. These

bones

45 and 46 extend downwardly partially to overlie the buttocks but the bones 45 for comfort in side bending may not extend downwardly to quite the distance of the bones 46.

At the top the

bones

45 and 46 extend to as nearthe top 'of' the back portion of the corset member as is practical. The boning in the front comprises the two bones 4141 which are mounted one on each side of the vertical central line of thecenter panel 20 about midway between that line and the outeredges of the panel. These bones extend downwardly to a linesufiiciently above the groin to avoid discomfort in sitting and walking and upwardly to a line approximate: ly joining the upper edges ofthe front panels 2222 at their. junction with the center panel.

The conventional bone pockets are provided on the inner side of the corset member for the bones above specified, andthe bones are preferably suspended in these pockets by'stitching 50 across tape 5| firmly attached to the upper extremity of the bones; i

The brassire member The brassierememb'er C'comprises in fr'ont the breast pockets'fillof conventional two-ply woven material, such as nettingand lace; given the desired shape and contour by cutting and tape in the usual way, and a back band of fabric 62 attachedv to the sides of the breast pockets which embraces the sides: and back of the figure. and encircles the upper part of the back and side portions of the corset memberin both sittingand standing p'osipart coinciding with the back of the corset member is formed of two fabric pieces 63, preferably tapering down from the sides and suitably stitched along their edges at the middle: and bound as illustrated. That partof the back band which 00- incides with the sides of the corset member com prises fabric strips 64 and triangular gussets of elastic 6.5 with the base of the'trianglesa't the" bottom of substantially the same dimension'as the width' of the elastic side strips [2 at the top.

Lil

1 pockets vertically and to these lower extensions are attached forwardly extending fabric pieces 66 (conveniently termed frontal side fabric portions) which overlie the panels 22 of the corset member and have their inner ends attached to the edges of the center panel 20 by suitable stitching" and their upper margins (curved to constitute lateral extensions of the curves '40) attached to the bottom of the breast pockets by suitable stitching. Between the front edges of the extensions 64 the lower part of the brassire member is completed by the upper portion of the corset member panel 20, as above explained.

The brassire memberis illustrated as side opening in the same manner as the corset member. One of the side members 64 at its outer edge is provided with a reenforced underlying and projecting band I 4' to constitute one of the fastening edges of the brassiere member, eyes l5 being provided at suitable intervals along the edge of the fabric'strip. The cooperating hooks 24' are attached to the edge of the correspondingly located breast pocket 60 and forwardly extending piece 66, suitably reenforced. The hook and eye opening of the brassiere member is for convenience preferably on the same side as the hook and eye opening of the corset member, but slight- 1y to one side or the other thereof to avoid superimposition of the reinforcements and hooks and eyes. In the garment shown the opening of the brassiere member lies slightly to the rear of the opening in the corset member. the line of opening of the corset member is designated by the reference numeral 68 and the line of opening of the brassiere member by the refer ence numeral 69.

Pivotal attachment of corset and brassire mem-f her . there fastened tothe sides of the corset member above the waistline in suitable manner to provide for a tilting of the brassiere member about this fastening as is required. As constructed in the garment of Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive (see Fig. 9), this fastening means comprises two loops of tape,the

one 12 being suitably attached to the lower edge of the .side strip 64 of the brassire back band, the other 13 being suitably attached to the upper edge of the fabric strip I 3 of the side of the corset member, the said loops of tape encircling a metallic ring 14. This form of pivotal fastening is optional. Any suitable pivotalconnection may be employed, as, for example, a single strong piece of tape such as illustrated in the form of garment shown in Figs. 2a and 3a, later to be described.

'The pivotal attachment of the back band of the brassiere member to the corset member at its sides comprises the only functional fastening of the back band to the corset member, and while affording the requisite relative movement between the brassiere member and the corset member for the purposes herein set forth also serves as a means for maintaining the back band and corset member together in their relative positions,.whatever the posture. Cooperating with thisare the For convenience conventional shoulder straps 16 which are attached to the top of the brassiere portion at suitable points.

Loose motion connection of corset and brassi re member When the garment is not being worn the back band of the brassiere member is quite likely to be moved so completely out of position that time is wasted and the patience tried in putting the garment onunless additional means are provided for fastening the back band of the brassiere to the corset member, and to this end I provide a loose motion connection between them. A suitable, loose motion connection for this purpose comprises on each side a strip of tape 79 which is fastened to the top of the corset member to overlie a considerableportion of the back panel .H and elastic strip l2, beneath which is threaded a cooperating tape 80 which is fastened to the back band at the bottom near the elastic gusset 65 and extends diagonally forward to about thetop of said elastic gusset where it is again fastened.

Operation In addition to the waistline of the garment bb above referredto, in taking the photographs from which the first seven figures are made, the dot and dash line d shown in Figs. ,4, 6 and 7 was drawn on the corset member of the garment to mark the lower edge of the back band in standing position of the wearer. These lines will be referred to in describing the operation of the garment.

Assuming that the garment is properly donned by the wearer and that the wearer is in standing position as shown in the first three figures of the drawings, the corset member of the garment, with its boning reenforcement above described, and

the form-fitted brassiere member closely embracing the upper part of the corset member with its overlapping portions, offer a support for the figure which tends to enforce the correct standing posture both respecting thelumbar curve and the position of the upper back and shoulders. The breasts are held high and comfortably supported and the breastline as above defined is horizontal. The unbroken support of the corset member at the back extending as hereillustrated to a position slightly above the midway line between the upper ends of the ilia and the lower margin of the scapulae and completely covering the region of the lumbarzcurve cooperates with the back band of the brasslere member in the easy maintenance of this correct standing position.

As the wearer leans forward in passing through the series of posturesifrom a standing position to a sitting position, the back departs but slightly from its contour in standing position, as the forward inclination in assuming the sitting position is primarily about the hip joints. Whatever deviation'there may be, however, from the contour of theback in standing position is provided for by the tiltingmovementof the brassiere member about its pivotal .mounting 'l4'l4.

When the wearer assumes sitting position, however, .on the one hand, the slight drooping forward of the shoulders and the tilting downward of the bustline is accompanied by a pivotal movement of the brassiere member around its pivotal points of attachment to the corset member, and on the other hand, the muscular extension of the buttocks draws downwardly the corset member at the back beyond the pivotal connection with the brassire member, so that from thispivotal 'connection'to the center vertical lineof the garment at the back there is an increasing relative movement of the brassiere and corset members, the brassiere member moving upwardly and the corset member moving downwardly. The tilting of the brassiere member about'its pivotal point of attachment with the corset member is well illustrated by a comparison of Figs. 3 and 4 wherein in the sitting position in Fig. 4 the hook and eye line 69 of the brassiere member has taken on a decided angular position in respect to the substantially vertical hook and eye line 68 of the corset member, these two lines being practically parallel in the standing position of Fig. 3. The drawing downward of the corset member in sitting position is seen by a comparison of the waistlines b of Figs. 3 and 4. The relative movement of the brassiere and corset members in sitting position is perhaps best illustrated by notingthe position of the line 11 in Figs. 4 and 6 which as just stated is coincident with the lower margin of the brassiere member in the standing position of Figs. 2 and 3.

The pivotal movement of the brassiere about its pivotal points of attachment, the drawing downward of the corset member, and the relative movement of the brassire and corset members are eifected, however, without loss of support for the breasts and the back in the lumbar region and in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region. On the contrary, the breasts are supported in their slightly lowered position with the downward tilting of the bustline, the degree of curvature of the lumbar region proper to sitting position is maintained, and the torso is erect with no crowding of the organs in their abdominal cavity. As seen in Figs. 4 and 6, the back band of the brassire member still closely encircles the upper part ofpopularly referred to as the pit of the stomach,

which would tend to cause the wearer to assume a slouching position while sitting. The pivotal movement of the brassiere member provides for a uniformity of support for the breasts and of pressure across the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts, which would not be true if this support and pressure were exerted by the corset member. At the same time the snug fitting of the brassiere member about the figure and about the upper portion of the corset member prevents the possibility of the upper portion of the corset member protruding rearwardly from the back of the wearer should the wearer stoop forwardly while sitting or standing.

In sitting from standing position the back band of the brassire member slides smoothly and without appreciable effort upward on the upper part of the'back and sides of the corset member, but never separates therefrom, always giving continuity of support. In standing from sitting position this motion is reversed with the same smoothness and without any displacement whatsoever of the upper part of the back and sides of the corset member, the parts assuming their correct interrelation and positions illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3. This relative movement of the two constituent members of the garment iseifected withskin of the wearer in properly fitted garments;

The cooperative "functioning ;of the 'b'rassire and corset members of the garment are well illus-: trated by a comparison of. Figs. 6 and 7. In Fig. '7 with the model maintaining her position of Fig. 6 the brassiere. member was severed to the left 'of the center'seam of the back band as shown at 90.

This immediately withdrew the effective support of the breasts which 'forthwithsagged-or drooped raising perceptibly the back band-of the brassiere member at the back by pulling upwardly on the out any sliding of the brassire member on the shoulder straps-there attached. With'the sagging I of the breasts, the figure itself sloped forwardly, straightening-in large part the lumbar; curve so that the back moved forwardly away fromthe upper portions of the corset member above the waistline. of the garment above the waistline was completely destroyed and the graceful, hygienic posture of Fig. 6 was lost. V

The elasticpor'tions of the garment illustrated give flexibility ,to the garment, add greatlyto the comfort of the wearer and provide for a-freedom of body'movement which isconsistent'with the primary objects and operation of this invention. They may or may not be present in their entirety as desired. In the particular garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, however, the placing of the elastic gussets 6565 preferably in line with and above the elastic strips l2l2 of the side of the corset member is functional in that on stretching the fabric back 63-63 of the backhand is maintainedin linewith the fabric back of the corset member, which alignmenttends to prevent any engagement of the parts which would interfere with or preclude the smooth reciprocating vertical movement of the brassiere and corset members.

The garment 'illustrated'in Figs. 2a and 3a, a side opening garment, departs from the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, primarily in the construction of the sides and back, the front of the garment being identical'with the front of the first form except in the particulars now to be referred tofthe difference being so minor and readily described that no front iew of the second form ofgarment is given. As to the front of the second form of garment, Fig. 1 may, therefore, be conveniently considered in connection with Figs. 2a and 3a. g i

The corset member A has a center panel which, like the center panel 20 of is a twopiece panel provided at the bottom with a triangular insert like the-insert 2| of Fig. 1, and at the top is merged into the lower central part of the brassire member C preferably without break in the fabric, precisely as shown in Fig. 1. The side panels 22' of the front are identical with those of the garment of Fig. 1 at the bottom, but at the top they continueupwardly to the lower border of The supporting function of the back the breast pockets towhich they are attached by stitching in suitable manner, their upper parts, therefore, merging into and forming the side front parts of the lower portion of the brassiere member preferably without break in the fabric. The boning reenforcement in the front of the corset member of the first form of garment may be employed in'the second-form, The front of the brassire member has breast pockets 60? to which are suitably attached shoulder straps 16',"

the breast pockets and shoulder straps being identicalwith those of the first form. As is apparent from Figs. 2a and. 3a theulower part'of .the 7 of the brassiere' member functionally merging.

into and forming a part of that member; The side piece I3 on one side is stitched to the side of its corresponding front panel 22 and breast pocket 69 throughout its length. The side piece I3 on the other side'is provided with an underlying band M from top'to bottom above which at the edge of the side piece are attached eyes l5 which cooperate with hooks mounted on the underside of the outer edges of the corresponding side piece 22' and the breast pocket 60', which edges are reenforced with an underlying band, all as will be understood from the more elaborate description and showing of the similar parts of the first form of garment.

The rearward pieces l2 of the side of this garment differ from the corresponding side pieces I 2 of the first form in that they are of fabric rather than of elastic and extend slightly further to the back of the garment. The side pieces l2 continue upwardly above the waistline bwhere they form the side pieces of the upwardly extending back portion of the corset membenbeing cut diagonally downward from the top on each side as indicated by the dotted line 33 to points well above the waistline but terminating sufficiently below the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts so that no pressure is there exerted by the corset member itself. As illustrated in Figs. .2a and 3a these side pieces l2 for purposes of proper fitting may be formed of two pieces stitched together on the diagonal across the waistline where they form-a suitable attachment means for the double ply pivoting tapes I l which replace the tapes 72,13 and the link 14 of the first form illustrated in detail in Fig. 9. At the bottom and to the rear of each of the side pieces l2 there are triangular inserts of elastic l2".

The back of the corset member is substantially identical with that of the first form, being composed of a center panel l0 to each side of which are the panels H. These panels areof fabric and extend from the bottom of the corset to the top of the upwardly extending portion of the back which is substantially of the same shape and proportion as the upwardly extendingback portion of the first form. The reenforcing boning and 46 of the second form corresponds in method and place of attachment, form and size with the boning 45 and 46 of the first form. The center piece Ill and side pieces H are, however, somewhat narrower than those of the first form due to the fact that the side pieces l2 extend further to the rear than the side pieces l2 'of the first form. Furthermore, the upwardlyextendingpor tion of the back, while out slightly downward from the'top of the side pieces l2 toward the center and not having the distinctive notch 35 of the first form, terminates above at substantially the same distance from the waistline as the upwardly extending back portion of the first form. The back and side pieces are stitched together and their margins bound with tape in the usual form as will be readily understood.

In the secondform only four garters 30' are illustrated, these being two in the front and one on each side. "This, however, is purely a matter of preference.

As to the brassiere member the back band 62' at each side terminates at the rear edge of the upward extensions of the side pieces I3 to which its side pieces 64' of fabric are attached by stitching and tape in the usual manner. The back of the brassiere member is formed of two pieces of fabric 63' stitched at their outer edges to the side pieces 64' and to each other at the center, a triangular gusset 65' of elastic being provided midway at the top. The top line of the back band which slopes gently downward from the sides to the elastic gusset terminates in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region of the back well above the top of the upwardly extending back portion of the corset member. and slightly higher than the back band of the first form. The lower line of the back band terminates well above the waistline. Its center back portion is curved gently upward and its side pieces extend upward at quite a perceptible angle. The shoulder straps 16' are suitably attached to the upper edge of the back band of thebrassiere member.

The pivotal attachments of the back band of the brassire member to the corset member which as heretofore stated are formed merely by the two-ply tapes M are placed slightly further to the rear on each side thanare the pivotal attachments of the first form. The tapes 14 are attached to the back band as here shown spanning the seams between the side pieces 64 and the back pieces 63'. r

The second form of garment may be provided with a loose motion attachment between the corset and brassire member similar to that (19,

80) employed in the first form.

The back band of the brassire member overlies and cooperates with the upwardly extending back portion ofthe corset in sitting, bending and standing positions of'the wearer, and the entire operation and functional performance of the second form'of "garment is identical with that of the first form of garment. It is believed that this operation and functional performance will be well understood from the foregoing described operation of the first form of garment without repetition. a a

While the pivotal connection of the back band of the brassiere member to the back of the corset member in the second form is quite difierent from the pivotal attachment of the two members in the first form and the points of attachment are located considerably closer to the back, the pivotal action of the brassiere member in both forms keeps the disconnected portion of the brassiere member in position and assures themaintenance of the bust in its normal position when the wearer is standing, bending or sitting. It allows the breasts to droop normally as a result 01' the relaxation of the muscles in sitting position and to return to their normal position when the wearer resumes a standing posture without at any time depriving the breasts of the desired support. This pivotal action, together with the fact that the breast pockets and the portion overlying the diaphragm are structurally independent of the back portion of the corset member andnot subject to the pull and strain exerted upon the back portion of the corset member through the various changes of posture, is of great importance to the wearer both from the standpoint of comfort and artistic lines. This is particularly true during any period of fashion such as obtains on the filing date hereof, which demands the molded bust and the uplift effect necessitating a very snug fitting garment under the breasts.

It should be apparent from the foregoing that my invention is not limited to the foundation garments herein above described either as to the type of the garment or as to the details of con struction. The invention is, for example, very useful in garments embodying the improvements 7 r set forth in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,978,092,

granted October 23, 1934. The garments here shown were selected from a number 01' different types embodying the invention because of their simplicity for illustrative purposes and no undue limitation should be deduced therefrom, but the appended claims should be construed as broadl as permissible in view of the prior art. i

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:

1. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassiere member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset member at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassiere member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member at the back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and standing positions and cooperating with the brassiere member in tending. to maintain thelumbar curve in both these positions.

2. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassiere member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset member at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassire member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member at the back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and standing positions and cooperating with the brassiere member in tending to maintain the lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset member above the waistline being so constructed as to its upwardly extending portion at the sides and back that no lateral pressure is exerted therefrom on the breasts and chest wall immediately beneath the breasts.

3. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassire member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset member at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassire member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member at the back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to, a pointwell above the waistline insitting and standing positions and cooperating-with the brassire member in tending to maintain ,the lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset member at the back having its side members cut away at the top to a point below the lower line of the breasts and the chest wall immediately beneath thebreasts so that no lateral pressure is exerted therefrom on the breasts and the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts.

4. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassire member overlyingthe top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset member at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member at theback extending .in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and standing positions and being there reenforced by boning on each side of the center line of the corset member which extends upwardly to substantially the upper margin of the back, the brassiere" member cooperating with said. upwardly extending portions of the corsetmember at the back in tendingto maintain the normal lumbar curvature in both sitting and standing positions, the

brassire member-holding the upwardly extending portion of the corset member atrthe back snugly against the body of the wearer in standing, bending and sitting positions and thereby ing permanently attached to the corset member 5 I at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassiere member and the corset member about the pivotal mou nting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corsetmember at the back comprising a center panel and' two side panels stitched to the 'center panel one on each side thereof all extending'in unbroken vertical lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and standing positions, boning positioned along the outer margin of the said center panel and along the outer margin of the said side panels and extending upwardly to substantially the upper margin of the back, the sides of the corset member adjoining and being attached to the back thereof being cutaway from the top downward to points located below the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts, the said boning reenforcing the unbroken vertical support of the back over the region of the lumbar curve, the cut away portions 7 of the back and sides at the top preventing lateral pressure being exerted by the corset member across the breasts and chest wall immediately be- 2 movement between the brassiere member and the neath the breasts, the corset member at the back above the waistline cooperating with the brassire member in tending to maintain the lumbar curve in both sitting and standingpositions.

6. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassire member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member comprising breast pockets and a back band extending around the sides and: back of the wearer, the corset member at the front having acenter panel extending continuously upward to the lower margin of the breast pockets, the back band of the brassire member having forwardly extending portions which at the top are attached to the lower extremity of the breast pockets and in the front are attached to the upwardly extending center panel of the corset member, means for pivotally attaching the back band of the brassiere member to the sides of the corset member above the waistline so that relative movement between the brassire member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member atthe back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to points well above the waistline in sitting and standing positions and cooperating with the brassiere member. in tending to maintain the'lumbar curve in-both these positions. a

'7. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a figure-conforming corset member and a figure-conforming brassiere member; the brassire member comprising in the front breast pockets and a subtending fabric portion suitably attached thereto, at the sides toward the front frontal side fabric portions suitably attached at their top edges to the breast pockets and at their frontedges'to said subtending fabric portion and having their bottom edges overlapping and relatively movable in respect to the corset member in standing, bending and sitting positions, said subtending' fabric portion comprising an upwardly'extending portion of the front of the corset member, and at the sides toward the back and at the back a back band comprising side portions suitably attached to the said frontal side portions and a back panel connecting said back band side portions; the corset member at the back extending upward in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to points well above the waistline in the dorsal or thoracic vertebral region in standing, bending and sitting positions and being cut away at the sides to a point below the lower line of the breasts and the chest wall'immediately beneath the breasts so that no lateral pressure is exerted by the corset 7 tions; the brassire member cooperating with the corset member in maintaining the lumbar curve in standing, bending and sitting positions without subjecting the breasts to pull or stress; the construction and arrangement of the parts being such as to afford the breasts support and to tend r to maintain them in normal-position in standing, bending and sitting. JOSEPH LEONARD.