US2124508A - Weft knit fabric - Google Patents

Description

July 19, 1938. J. MCNAMEE 2,124,508

WEFT KNIT FABRIC Filed June 26, 1957 Fig.3 Fig.4- 1 51: 5.

1 v 'INVENTOR- I JAMES McNAMEE BY HIS ATTORNEYS Patented July 19,1938 I:

UNITED STATES PATENT orsics war-r KNIT FABRIC James McNamee, Ballston spa, N. Y. Application June26, 1937, Serial No. 150,612 a Claims. (01. 66-201) My invention relates to weft knit fabrics and more specifically to such fabrics in which pat- -ternsjappear by light reflection. It has been known for decades that twist in the ordinary knitting yarn causes the knitted stitches to lean to one side or the other tion of twist. This has been universally regarded as objectionable because the fabric tends to twist and shrink, and the amount of twist in such yarns is ordinarily kept low or soft. It was suggested many years ago that these objections might be overcome if a yarn with a twist in one direction were usedfor one or two courses and then a yarn twisted in the-opposite direction for one or. two courses, either with or without theinterspersion of one or two courses of a balanced twist yarn. I

it is possible to make useof certain twists of yarn to produce a pattern efiect in weft knit fabric due to light reflection.

In the. drawing, Figure 1 is -a diagrammatic plan view of a needle circle and yarn feeds of an eight-feed circular knitting machine suitable for I have discovered that under certain conditions 7 making my novel fabric;

- Fig. 2 is a photographic plan view oi" the face fabric made in accordof a piece of balbriggan ance with my invention: t

Figs. -3, 4 and 5 are diagrams illustrating the light-reflection patterns seen when viewing the fabric of Fig.2 from the side (i. e. at an angle) at various points around ing the. appearance of the fabric when the alternate bandsare dark light, .Fig. 4 showing and Fig. 5 showing the alternate bands light and the intervening bands dark; while Fig. 6 is a view few of the stitches 40 how the stitches are tipped up on one leg.

If a yarn of suiliciently high twist is used in knitting, I have observed that when the fabric is viewed from the side, the amount oflight reflected varies as the source of lighter the ob- 45 server moves around the fabric. I have discova highly novel light-reflection pattern is ob-' ered that if but in opposite directions, or ban of at least four so the straight lines are produced in the wales, and the two opposite yarns used in alternation,

are usedto knit a row tamed. I find that under these circumstances the knitted herringbone construction produces contrasting bands reflecting lustrousfabric and bands of darkness showing no substance. I fur- I according to the direc the fabric, Fig. 3 show;

and the intervening bands theentire fabric neutral,

in vertical section through av of the fabric of Fig. 2 showing yarns of this high degree of twist,

courses in succession,

ther find that as the observer or the source of ht'is moved about the fabric, the bands merge into a neutral appearance where the entirefabric has a uniform slightly matte appearance, and then as the movement continues the bands that were dark suddenly'become light and the ones that were light become dark. This appears to be controlled by the straight lines forming the wales, and to vary from a shade of darkness where the substance of the fabric is lost to a highly lustrous appearance.

Apparently not. only are the lines of the wales reversely sloped in the fabric, giving a line direction similar to awoven herringbone pattern, but it also appears that each stitch is tipped up on one side. us-one leg or side of each stitch is vertically above the other as it lies in the, fabric and the direction oftwist determines which -leg is up (Fig. 6). This gives a straight line herringbone effect in a vertical dimension and the light-reflected pattern apparently is due at one angle, but cannot enter and is refiectedofl' when approaching at another angle. The crests appear more as continuous lines than valleys. .The shapes of the trough and crest are somewhat like waves preparing to break on the shore. I Fig. 6 is merelydiagrammatic to show troughs and crests generally.

I have found that the if the number of courses of the same twist yarn is so low that no wales are present. Furthermore, the tipping up of the stitches does not seem 'tooccur to any extent. Thus with two courses, each stitch is partially bent by its cent stitch of opposite twist and there are no consecutive stitches in a straight line to unite pattern is not produced interlooping with the adjaappreciable straight lines of of light andsubstance as may be called for by the angles of incidence and reflection leading to the observer, and the collective effect of tipped stitches.

It is also impossible to produce a light-reflection pattern unless there is a comparatively high twist in the yarn. Thus in 30's cotton the minimum twist would be about twentyturns to the inch (the ordinary cotton yarn has only 14 or 15 turns per inch). The minimum number of turns necessary decreases in proportion as the bulk,

i. e. weight, per unit length increases, and vice versa. Yarns other than cotton need the same number of urns, size for size. to be equivalent. 55

so chine (Fig. 1) which is adapted toproduce my ,minimum or higher;

This light-reflection pattern from the ordinary weft plain knittingis quite novel.- I find that whereas when the fabric is viewed from above, the face of the fabric merely shows the lnterlooping of the yarns, there is an entirely different appearance when viewed from the side.

' i. e., at a considerable or low angle. When viewed thus the fabric will have any one of three appearances according to the angle relative to the length of the courses of stitches from which it is viewed. At certain angles relative to the length of the courses the fabric shows an absolutely, uniform, slightly matte appearance in which the structure of the stitches is not apparcut and there is no visible distinction between the portions knit of yarn of one direction of twist and portions knit of yarn of the opposite twist. If, however, the source of light or the observer or both should changetheir circumferential position, 1. e., their-position in the plane of the fabric, the opposite twist portions at once begin to differentiate themse'lves. Thus move about the fabric about 90 from the neutral position, he would find a striking contrast. Assuming that the fabric is knit with alternate bands of say ten courses of one twist and of ten courses of the opposite twist, the bands of one twist will now have a lustrous sheen, and, while the stitch structure will not be visible, the surface will have aslight character or substance. On the other hand, the bands of opposite twist will have become very dark'and smooth, and totally without substance, due, apparently, to the uniform absence of light reflection. The surface J'of woven herring-bone fabrics does not exhibit this patterning despite the straight effects which 4 they contain, and presumably is so because of their smooth surface. Referring to the drawing, in indicates the needle circle of a multifeed circular knittingmanovel fabric. (Fig. 2). While I have illustrated a circular knitting machine it will be obvious that the fabric can be produced on a straight or circular machine, independent or united needle. I have illustrated eight feeds of yarn, though it is to be understood that this number of feeds is merely illustrative of my invention and not a limitation on the number of feeds. My fabric may be made on a four-feed machine or one. machine having only a single feed, by means of automatic yarn changing devices such for instance as are common on' circulan. hosiery knitting machines and other-types. In the machine shown in Fig. 1, the four yarns e, e, e,'e,- which are fed from feeds l, 2, 3 and l are yarns twisted in one direction while the four yarns e, e, e', -e', which are fed from feeds 5, 6', and 8 are yarns twisted in the opposite direction. The twists are at or above the minimumspecifled above and the yarns are therefore termed hard twisted.

In Fig. 2 the herringbone appearance of the fabric is apparent. It will be seen that the fabric is composed of bands ll, l2 of reversely sloped I prefer to use about 26 if the observer should substance of the and bright.

l2 which appear dark and without substance is no contrast left between the bands.

wales in which each of courses. In Fig. in each band. For the sake of the description, I will assume that the yarns e are twisted left compose the alternate bands H while the yarns e are twisted right and compose the intervening bands i2. K

It will be note that even in the machine of Fig. l which knits bands only four courses wide, there are a multiplicity of stitches of the same twist not interlaced with stitches of opposite twist. This length of line of wales'produces a linear or straight line effect which is essential to my light-reflection that in the fabric of Fig. 2 one leg of each stitch is tipped up producing a depth and a linear appearance not ordinarily present. Furthermore,

pattern.. It will be noted it will be noted that the leg which is lifted depends on. the direction of twist. Thus the only and the holes in the other band are tipped away or turned. The latter band appears as a solid fabric and is light. When the eye is placed laterally to one side of the fabric and a slight distance above it, the novel light-reflection pattern appears. There are three kinds of maxi-- mum effects to be seen. These are seen as the one looks at the clothobserver or the source of light moves around the fabric, maintaining the angle above the fabric.

As one moves around one observes shades or jumps from one maximum eifect to another as the case may be. Thus at certain points the change isabruptwhile in others it is gradual. The three maximum effects are diagrammatically in Figs. 3, 4, and 5. In Figures .3 and 5 there are l2; In the two figures the contrast is reversed .oralternated. In Fig. 3 the alternate bands H ,appeardark and all the alternate bands II are smooth and appear to be masses or areas where On .the other hand, the when viewed from the same pointappear lustrous In Fig. 5 it is the intervening bands shown somewhat j striking light-reflection contrasts between the successivebands I l and the intervening bands fabric) hasdisappeared. These j there is no light reflected.

intervening bands l2 while it isthe alternate bands II which appear lustrous. fabric through The horizontal angle relative to the" whichfthe observer must move to change from the contrast where one band is dark and without substance to the contrast where the other band is 'affectedby'the source of light. If this does not move relative to the fabric, then apparently the observer must move 180 to make thefull change. Half way between the two positions, however, t e

effect. At this intermediate position the fabric assumes a uniform appearance all over and there This sition may be termed a fabric appears slightly matte and the actual stitch structure is not apparent. At positions between the neutral and the contrasts, the structure of the stitches in one set of bands or the other is apparent.

dark and without substance, is

observer will find a strikingly different lig t neutral position. The

While I have shown the invention embodied in plain fabric, it can also be embodied in-rib fabric.

successive areas of opposite twist'yarns, thus giving a checkerboard effect. Also patterns due to other stitch or yarn changes may be combined with my light-reflection pattern. Other variations not departing from the scope of theinvention will occur to those skilled in the art.

This application is a continuation in part of my application Serial Number 101,604, filed September 19, 1936.

What is claimed is:

1. A plain weft knit pattern fabric of hard twist yarn, having one area of a plurality of wales and at least four courses knit of yarn twisted in one direciton, in combination with an adjacent similar area knit of oppositely twisted yarn, the fabric showing a light-reflection contrast when viewed from the side, one area being dark.

2. A plain knit weft pattern fabric of hard twist yarn, having one area of a plurality of wales forming straight lines, the area having at least four courses and being knit of yarn twisted in one direction, in combination with an adjacent similar area knit of oppositely twisted yarn, the lines of the wales in the areas being sloped reversely to each other and the areas showing a light reflection contrast when viewed from the side, with one area dark and the other lustrous, and vice versa with a change of angle.

3. A weft knit pattern fabric of yarns of op-.

posite hard twists, each stitch having one leg tipped up, the stitches of one direction of twist being tipped up on one side and the stitches of the opposite twist on the opposite side, the fabric having one area of a plurality of Wales and at least four courses knit of yarn twisted in one direction, in combination ilar area knitof oppositely twisted yarns, whereby the fabric in the areas appears alternately lustrous and dark when'viewed from the side.

4. A weft knit pattern fabric of yarn twisted the equivalent of at least 20 turns per inch for 30s cotton, yarn twisted in one direction being used in a plurality of wales for four or more courses, in combination with four or more courses adjacent thereto in said wales knit of oppositely twisted yarns, the portions knit of the two yarns appearing lustrous and dark, respectively, or of said groups of courses with an adjacent simadjacent area, whereby when slightly matte neutral appearance when viewed from the side.

5. A plain knit patterned fabric having bands of four or more courses of yarn hard twisted in one direction alternating with bands knit of four or more courses of yarn hard twisted in the opposite direction, the wales in said bands be ing straight line and reversely sloped in adjacent bands, the bands appearing alternately as lustrous and of smooth darkness when viewed from the side.

6. A weft knit patterned fabric in which bands of four or more courses of yarn twisted in one direction to substantial roundness are alternated with bands of four or more courses knit of yarns twisted the same amount in the opposite direction, the resulting straight lines of the wales being reversely sloped in adjacent bands, and refiecting contrasting bands of luster and of darkness when viewed from the side.

7. 'A weft knit fabric having a light-reflection pattern therein knit of yarns hard twisted in opposite directions, a plurality of adjacent courses at least four in number being knit of yarn twisted in one direction, and a similar plurality of adjacent courses being knit of oppositely twisted yarns; whereby the tipped-up wale lines sloping reversely in adjacent groups of courses reflect lustrous bands and bands of darkness without substance when viewed from the side,

opposite to each other when viewed at certain angles and the entire fabric appearing neutral and slightly matte at another angle.

8. A weft knit fabric having a light-reflection pattern .therein, knit of hard oppositely twisted yarn, the fabric containing areas of a plurality of wales four or more courses in extent knit of yarn of one direction of twist, and adjacent areas knit of yarn of the opposite twist, the wales in the two areas being sloped reversely to each other, but forming straight parallel lines in their own area, the stitches in each area being tipped up on the side opposite from the tipping of the viewed from the side the fabric will have a neutral, slightly matte, uniform appearance, or the areas will have contrasting lustrous or dark and without substance appearances in alternation according to the angle from which viewed.

JAMES McNAMEE.

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