US2122134A - Permanent waving apparatus - Google Patents

Description

June 28, 1938. G. B. FINNEGAN, JR

PERMANENT WAVING APPARATUS Filed May 2, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet l V ai l 4 m In,

`lune 28, 1938. G. B. FINNEGAN, .WeV l2-2,134

PERMANENT wAvING APPARATUS Filed May 2, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet '2 M Wm Tf INVENTOR l B'Y M Patented June 28, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT orric PERMANENT WAVING APPARATUS Application May 2, 1935, Serial No. 19,356

Claims.

The invention relates to permanent waving and more particularly to novel methods and means of effecting the heating action in the permanent Waving process by the resistance of a liquid to 5 electrolytic` conduction.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned by practice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims. v

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements, combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a central longitudinal section of an apparatus embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is an end elevationv of the apparatus shown in Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a section on line 3-3 of Fig. l, parts being shown in elevation;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section similar to Fig. l of a modied form of the apparatus; v

Fig. 5 is a section similar to Fig. 3 taken o Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary section showing a modiiied form of protector;

Fig. '7 is a longitudinal section similarto Fig. l F showing another modification;

Fig. 8 is a section on line 8 8 of Fig. '7; and

Fig. 9 is a section on line 9--9 of Fig. 7.

The invention is directed to providing novel and useful improvements in permanent Waving, especially that type of waving known as croquignole,the improvements relating both to the heating and steaming of the curls and to the handling of the various devices and materials for treating and heating the wound curl. 'Ihese improvements are chiey applicable to methods and means for permanent waving wherein the resistance of liquid, preferably a hair waving liquid, to the electrolytic conduction of currents is utilized to create the heat for steaming and softening the hair. Improvements in the facility of applying the waving and heating media are provided, while another object of the invention is to provide simple and easily operable means for' 55 steaming a Croquignole-wound curl throughout (Cl. :E19-24) substantially its entire circumference without endangering or discommoding the customer.

In Croquignole waving as generally practiced, the hair is divided into tresses which are wound spirally about a curler or mandrel, the winding being done from the free ends of the tress toward the scalp and the hair usually being kept in the shape of a fiat band or ribbon while being wound under tension. Before Winding the tress of hair is usually gripped just above the scalp with a clamp which also serves to space the wound curl from the scalp and act as a heat-guard or scalpprotector. 'Ihe hair is usually moistened with the hair waving lotion to facilitate handling and winding and to supply lotion adjacent the hair. With this type of waving, the problem of heating the curl is diicult because the usual arcuate metallic resistance heater is necessarily positioned close to the scalp where it radiates much heat at a high temperature. Also because of the overlapping hair convolutons, the ends of the curl are covered by several layers of hair so that the exterior part of the curl, comprising the hair near the scalp, is naturally heated to a greater extent than the ends adjacent the curler. Consequently the heating action is non-uniform and usually weaker than it should be for the best results in some parts of the curl, so that Croquignole curls ordinarily are less lasting than the other typeA of Winding wherein the hair is wound from the roots outwardly in a helical curl.

B-y the present invention, uniformity of heating is effected throughout the curl with consequent improvement in the lasting qualities of the wave. That is, the heat is created within the lotion on and throughout the curl so that the heating action takes place in all parts of the curl and the temperature quickly reaches and remains at the boiling point of the lotion in all parts of,` the curl. Moreover, by utilizing the liquid as the electrical conductor, danger'of burning or drying out the hair is eradicated, as the heating action diminishes with dissipation of the liquid and the consequent increase in resistance until ultimately the heating action ceases due to cessation of current ow. Preferably, of course, a low voltage current is employed to make for complete safety and comfort.

One form of the invention provides for passing 1 the heating current through or about substantially the entire circumference of the Croquignolewound curl, thereby effecting a practically uniform heating action about or around the curl. This feature of the invention is an improvement over known types of Croquignole heating, wherein the heating action is usually confined to an arcuate or crescent-shaped heating zone about the top and sides of the curl. By the present invention it is possible to also apply full heating action to the lower or scalp side of the Croquignole curl without harming or inconveniencing the customer and without detracting from the simplicity of the construction or ease of operation of the mechanism.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description as well are exemplary and explanatory of the invention but are not restricted thereto.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred.

embodiment of the invention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, one form thereof is shown in Figs. l, 2 and 3. As shown, a at or ribbon-like tress of hair A is wound Croquignole fashion about a curler or mandrel I of generally conventional design, having a relatively thin median portion and enlarged ends to accommodate the varying thickness of the curl. Said curler is capacitated to act as an electrode in the heating circuit, being preferably made or surfaced with a suitable electrode metal, such as Zinc for example.

One end of the curler is provided with tightening means such as a handle 2, the opposite end having suitable ratchet teeth 3 or the like for assisting in the tightening operation.

Means for clamping the tress during winding and supporting the wound tress and curler during the heating operation comprises a Croquignole clamp or protector of any known and suitable design. The clamp consists of two jaw members 5 which are relatively long and narrow and are adapted to be opened or spread apart to engage the tress and may be closed and fastened in a tight gripping position by any suitable means, several forms of which are well known in the art and are not shown here as they constitute no essential part of the present invention. The hair-gripping faces of the clamp are provided with suitable frictional material 6 of rubber, felt or the like, which acts to tightly grip the hair and to prevent hot leakage through the clamp. The under faces of the clampy members 5 are preferably formed of felt, soft rubber or similar yielding absorbent material 'l which lies adjacent the scalp. A heat resisting layer or insulating plate 8, preferably formed of wood, bakelite, or the like, may be xed to and positioned above the absorbent layer 'I. The upper surface of the clamping jaws preferably comprises a metal facing 9 which acts as a frame for the clamp and, in certain forms of the invention, cooperates as an electrode surface and accordingly is preferably constructed of a suitable electrode metal.

The curler I is adapted to'be mounted in and supported by the clamp frame and for such purpose the metal portion or frame of the clamp is struck up at the end of one of the jaws 5 to form a yoke-like support I0 for the reduced end portion II and I2 of the curler I. Suitable pawl means, not shown, may be provided for engaging the ratchet teeth 3 to tighten the curler. As indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, the curler must form close electrical contact with the metal frame and facing 9 of the clamp.

. In accordance with the invention outer electrode means are provided for electrolytically steaming and heating the curl wound on the curler l and utilizing said curler as one ofthe electrodes in the heating circuit. The outer electrode preferably comprises a pair of arcuate, opposed metal jaw members or segments I 5 and |511 which are adapted topivot about a fixed axis 26 and when closed form a substantially semi-circular electrode closure adapted to surround and grasp the curl above the clamp 5 and to form close and positive electrolytio contact therewith. The opposed electrode segments I5 and |5a are independently journalled to swing on the fixed axle 26. Accordingly each member I5 and |5a 'at' its upper edge is provided with a plurality of spaced apart cylindrical extensions or sleeves 3|] which surround the axle 26 and are spaced therefrom by insulating bushings 3| rotatable with the sleeves 30. Said sleeves 30 and bushings 3| are so spaced apart on the respective sides that they will intermesh and abut each other on the axle 26. The `electrode segments are preferably formed of a suitable electrode metal such as zinc. Preferably, but not necessarily, the electrode shells I5 and |5a and their pivotal connections 36 and 3| are provided with exterior heat and electrical insulating casings I6 and |6a respectively. For enhancing the gripping and closing action of the electrode segments, sets of spring fingers 40 (Fig. 5) may be mounted exteriorly to urge the jaw segments together, some finger grips 4| being provided to force the jaws apart.

If desired, and preferably to promote close electrical contact between the electrode I5 and the moistened hair A, absorbent ply I'I, formed of felt, flannel, blotting paper or the like, may be placed between the electrode I5 and the surface of the curl.

The embodied means for supplying energizing electric current to the electrodes I and I5 is preferably embodied as an integral part of the curl and electrode supporting structure. Contact to the curler I is preferably made through the metal frame 9-|0, the reduced, upwardly projecting ends 2l) of the curler-supporting yoke Ill being adapted to engage the yoke-like socket member 2| of the contacting mechanism. The socket yoke 2| is suitably supplied with current from the lead wire 22 through any suitable connecting means 23. Contact is preferably made at both ends of curler I, the similar yoke at the opposite end I2 of the curler being provided with contact prongs 20 which cooperate with the female contacting yoke 25. Electrical transmission is effected be-l tween the yoke members 2| and 25 by the interconnecting metal axle 26.

The means for electrically contacting the curler I are preferably structurally combined with the means for supporting and applying the outer electrode I5 to the curl, suitable insulating bushings 32 being mounted on the shaft 26 at either end between the yokes 2| and the edges of the sleeves 39. Means for making electrical contact of the proper polarity to the outer electrode I5 and |5a comprises Contact stud or rivet 33 extending upwardly from one of the sleeves 3|! and making spring contact with a suitable socket member 34 which is attached to a circuit wire 35.

In operating the hereinbefore described mechanism, the wound curl is moistened, both during and after winding, with a suitable electrolyte which is preferably also the hair-waving lotion usually containing volatile hair-softening alkali. If desired the lotion saturated absorbent mem'- ber I'I may also be placed about the curl. Then the frame |6|6a is fitted about the curl by moving it downwardly to embrace the absorbent Il and/or the curl, bringing the electrodes |5- Cal |a into contact with the electrolyte. `By the same movement the contact yokes 2| and 25 will engage the prongs 2|) and thereby make contact with the frame 9 and the curler Suitable knobs 36 may be formed at the oth-er upper end of yokes 2| and 25 for handling the assembled mechanism. When the contact yokes and outer electrode are in place, the outer electrode may then be placed in circuit by attaching the contact member 34. If desired, suitable switching means for controlling the energization of all the heating devices may be provided in the heating machine itself.

When the mechanism has 'been connected and applied as described, the electrolyte on and between the hairs of tress A will conduct current between the electrodes and the resistance thereof will create heat and steam which will impart a permanent wave to the curl, as disclosed, for example, in the copending application of Hobart N. Durham and myself, Serial No. 641,576, filed November '7, 1932. The heating action may be continued so long as desired and may be terminated by breaking the circuit with a timeswitch or otherwise. If, through inadvertence, the current is maintained for a protracted period, the mounting resistance of the circuit will gradually eliminate the passage of current until the curl cools and substantially dries out. Thus there is no danger of burning the hair.

In the form shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the inner electrode may be mounted'exteriorly of the curl as well as interiorly and Contact thereto made through the frame member 9 of the clamp. As shown an inner electrode comprising a sheet of metal foil 45 is mounted about the curl and in Contact with the inner face of absorbent member Il. Said foil electrode extends downwardly and outwardly to lie in contact with the upper surface of member 9. Contact with the frame member 9 may be effected through a circuit wire 416 plugged in at the struck up end of the'frame, as by a suitable split male contact member 41. In this form the curler may also be in the circuit to act as a supplemental inner electrode, or may be insulated fromv the frame 9 if desired.

In another modification, shown in Fig. 6, the

upper surface of the hair clamp or protector may be formed of an insulating plate 50 and contact made to the curler I by a yoke-shaped metal frame 5| mount-ed solely yat the ends of the clamp. In this form the curler acts alone as the interior electrode and would be utilized with the mechanism generally shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3.

In the modified form of the invention shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, I provide for electrolytically heating the Croquignole curl throughout substantially its entire circumference by causing the outer electrode to embrace all or nearly all of the outer surface of the curl. As embodied, the upper surface of the hair clamp 5 is provided with a metal electrode member 6|] which underlies the bottom surface of the curl where it normally contacts the clamp. Said electrode 50 is formed as a curved metal plate adapted to conform substantially to the bottom surface of the curl. Said plate 60 may be formed as a fixed part of the clamp structure, but preferably it may be removed and periodically replaced by fresh plates to compensate for corrosion. The shape of the member 6B where it contacts the curl is shown in Fig. 9.

Suitable means are provided for connecting the electrode member 6i! in circuit with the arcuate outer electrode I5 so that they will be of the same polarity. As embodied, the electrode i5 and its shell jaws I6 are somewhat modified, the transverse supporting axle 52 being provided with metal bushings 53 adjacent its ends, which make contact with the cylindrical portion 35 of the outer electrode. Integrally connected with said metallic 'bushing 53 at either end of the rod 52 is an arcuately movable metal contact arm 55 which is adapted to rock about the axis 52 in unison with the electrode jaw members l5. Said Contact arms 55 are of substantially semi-circular outlin-e (Fig. 8) so that in closing they will span the end of the curler l. The lower ends of the members 54 are provided with a downwardly extending contact lug 65 which is adapted to make surface engagement with the electrode plate 5|). Preferably the plate 6U is indented at either end to form a contacting recess or trackway 56 for receiving the contact lug 65. The contact arm Bil is also preferably provided with a projecting stop finger 5l which engages the lateral edge of the clamp 5 when the electrode casing i6 is in its closed position, thereby preventing further movement of the contact arm 5d and avoiding short circuiting engagement with the curler l. In other respects it will be clear that the construction of the outer electrode i5 and its cooperating parts are operatively similar to that shown and described in connection with Figs. 1, 3 and 5. Means for making circuit connection with the outer electrode |5 may comprise the contact post 'l5 which preferably has spring engagement with the socketed contact knob ll attached to the end of the lead wire l2.

Circuit connections of opposite polarity may be made to the curler through the metal end frame member l5 of the clamp 5. As shown, a spring contact stud l5 projects laterally to receive the contact socket on the lead wire '18. The end frame members 'l5 are provided viu'th suitable supporting and contacting yokes 8D to receive the reduced end portions and l2 of the curler and transmit current thereto.

As previously stated, the bottom electrode plate 5|] may be formed as .a fixed part of the clamping structure 5 or it may be made attachable and removable at will. In the latter case, the indentations 66 at the ends thereof may be resilient so that they will snap into the corresponding recesses in the surface of the clamp. When constructed as .a removable element, the member 50 may be made of very thin metal or a thin ber sheet coated with metal foil, so as to be inexpensive for frequent renewals.

In operation of the form shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, the electrolyte-moistened hair is wound about the electrode curler and the curl xed to the' clamp 5 as hereinbefore described. Upon applying the outer electrode l5 (with or without an intervening absorbent member Il) the contact yarms 54 will be swung about the ends of the curler and make contact with the bottom electrode plate 50, which will be of the same polarity as the arcuate shell electrode l5. Upon making contact to the inner electrodel from the lead wire 18 and completing the circuit, current will flow through the lotion on the hair between the inner electrode and the outer electrodes l5 and 55. Thus a substantially uniform heating action of almost 360 of the curl circumference will be provided, the only break in said circuit being the very small arc required to admit the root ends of the hair through the clamp jaws.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specic mechanism shown and described but departures may be made therefrom within the scope of the accompanying claims Without departing from the principles of the invention and Without sacrificing its chief advantages.

What I claim is:-

1. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clamp for gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tress spirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionable exteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to the curler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exterior electrode, and an additional electrode surface on the clamp and means for connecting it in circuit with the same polarity as the curler.

2. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clamp for gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tress spirally toward the clamp .and for supporting the curl on the clamp, said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionable exteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to the curler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exterior electrode, and an additional electrode surface on the clamp and means for connecting it in circuit with the same polarity as the exterior electrode.

3. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clamp for gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for winding the tress spirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionable exteriorly of the curl, and an electric circuit terminal of opposite polarity attached to the exterior electrode but insulated therefrom, said terminal being connectible with a terminal on the clamp which is adapted to contact electrically With the curler, said terminals being moved into electrically connecting position upon application of the exterior electrode to the curl.

4. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clamp for gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tress spirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionable exteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to the curler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exterio-r electrode, an additional electrode surface on the clamp between the curl and the clamp and means positioned by the application of the exterior electrode for making electrical contact With said surface.

5. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clamp for gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for winding the tress spirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionable exteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to the curler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exterior electrode, an additional electrode surface on the clamp between the curl and the clamp and means positoned by the application of the exterior electrode for making electrical contact with said surface of the same polarity as said exterior electrode.

GEORGE B. FINNEGAN, JR.

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