US2117453A - Device for predetermining location of fasteners - Google Patents

Device for predetermining location of fasteners Download PDF

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US2117453A
US2117453A US35953A US3595335A US2117453A US 2117453 A US2117453 A US 2117453A US 35953 A US35953 A US 35953A US 3595335 A US3595335 A US 3595335A US 2117453 A US2117453 A US 2117453A
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work
scale
stitches
stitch
cam
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Roseman Leo
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/12Indicators for positioning work, e.g. with graduated scales

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  • This invention relates in general to a gauge or indicator for use with automatic sewing machines, one object of the invention being to provide such a device embodying novel and improved 5 features. of construction to predetermine and facilitate location of particular stitching operations at points in the length of a piece of work, and for example for sewing on fasteners such as hooks, eyes, snap fasteners, buttons or the like, and
  • the invention also contemplates use with sewing machines specially adapted for making jump, floating, skip or slip stitches automatically at regular or irregular intervals; and one use of the invention is the connection with such sewing machines for.providing openings or gaps between two pieces of fabric which are stitched together to receive hooks, eyes, corset clasps, or other fasteners or the like.
  • the fasteners at the closures of the garments be located in exactly predetermined positions along'the edges of the closures and that there be a predetermined number of fasteners and the fasteners on each edge shall accurately correspond in number and positions with the fastener on the other edge. It is also desirable that the fastener elements be located accurately predetermined distances from the ends of the edges of the garment carrying the fastener elements.
  • the fastener elements are inserted into the openings provided in the edges of the garments, the openings being first 40 formed between superposed plies of material and the'fastener elements being thereafter inserted into the openings. impossible, to form such openings with auto-. matic machines in the correct positions on the 45 garment edges, and where errors in the positions of the openings have occurred it has been necessary to rip the garment and resew it until proper location of the fastener element has been obtained.
  • Another object of my invention is to 1 provide a gauge or indicator'of the character described whereby it may be, determined whether the garment edge is of the proper length to receive the desired number of hooks, eyes or other fasteners, and to determine whether the fas- 15 teners or the like on one edge of the garment may be located at desired points, for example relative to a seam in the garment, to match complemental fastener elements in the other edge of the garment.
  • Another object is to provide a gauge or indicator of the character'described for sewing machines which can be selectively thrown into operation and automatically thrown out of operation.
  • Figure '7 is a view similar to Figure 4 showing a modification of the gauge.
  • FIGS 8 and 9 are fragmentary plan views of the parts shown in Figure 7.
  • Figure 10 is a transverse vertical sectional view on the line Ill-I0 of Figure 8.
  • Figure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view showing the connection of the two sections of the gauge scale.
  • Figure 12 is a schematic plan view of the cam for operating the gauge scale.
  • Figures 13, 14 and 15 are composite schematic views showing the gauge scale, the cam for operating it, the stitch presetting disc and the slip stitch controlling cam, in their corresponding relative positions at different stages or a cycle of stitches.
  • Figure 16 is a schematic plan view showing the manner of determining the number of special stitches which may be formed in a piece of work.
  • Figure 17 is a similar view showing the use of the gauge to ascertain the location of the first special stitches with respect to the edge of the piece of work.
  • Figure 18 is a composite of plan vlews of the gauge scale and a piece of work showing the various relative positions of the work and gauge scale during operation of the machine.
  • Figure 19 is a detached perspective view of the two sections of the gauge scale.
  • Figure 20 is a detached perspective view of the marking device.
  • Figure 21 is an end view of the marking device taken on the line 2l-2'
  • Figure 22 is a plan view of a piece of work showing markings formed thereon by the marking device.
  • the bobbin mechanism B Cooperating with the needle bar is the bobbin mechanism B of known/type which includes a loop taker hook 8 to pick up the loop formed in the needle thread during the normal operation of the machine in the formation of a stitch.
  • the machine also includes suitable known work feed mechanism which includes the reciprocating feed dog R for advancing the work beneath the needle in steps each equal to the length of one stitch, and a presser foot P of known structure is included to hold the work against the feed dog.
  • suitable known work feed mechanism which includes the reciprocating feed dog R for advancing the work beneath the needle in steps each equal to the length of one stitch, and a presser foot P of known structure is included to hold the work against the feed dog.
  • the thread T is threaded from a supply spool or the like through the tension device 5, the eye of the take-up lever and the eye of the needle 6, and during normal operation of the machine,.the needle reciprocates and on its descent penetrates the work to carry the thread through the work.
  • the thread at one side of the needle frictionally engages the work while the thread at the other side of the needle is in a groove so that as the needle rises a loop in the thread is formed below the work and this loop is picked up by the loop taker 8, carried around and interlocked with the bobbin thread to form a stitch.
  • the work feed mechanism R moves the work forwardly a distance equal to the length of one stitch, preparatory to the next work penetrating movement of the needle for the next stitch.
  • the thread between the take up lever and the point in the work where the threads are interlocked to form the last previously formed stitch is substantially taut, and there is suflicient thread present to form a loop for the next stitch.
  • the thread T is manipulated or pulled so as to prevent the formation of the loop, by mechanism which includes a. gripper G which comprises two gripping jaws g and g which are normally in juxtaposed relation and receive the thread T between them and are movable toward and from each other but normally influenced together by a spring.
  • a gripper G which comprises two gripping jaws g and g which are normally in juxtaposed relation and receive the thread T between them and are movable toward and from each other but normally influenced together by a spring.
  • the jaws are caused to swing together about the axis of the shaft 6 in a vertical plane and are oscillated in timed relation with the drive shaft D of the sewing machine and the needle bar by.
  • a cam 8' which is mounted on the drive shaft (see Figure 4)
  • the cam 8 cooperates with a follower roller 9 which is connected to a lever l0 pivotally connected at one end at II on the machine and connected at its other end by a link l2 to a crank arm IE! on ⁇ the shaft 6.
  • the roller 9 is caused to follow the cam 8' by a spring I 4.
  • the cam 8' is so shaped and timed that the thread gripper G is located at its uppermost positions as shown in Figure 4 when the needle reaches its uppermost position and the gripper is swung downwardly approximately synchronously with the movement of the thread T and the needle so that the gripper is in its lowermost position shown in Figure 5 when the needle reaches its lowermost work penetrating position.
  • the cam 8' actuates the gripper upwardly into the position shown in Figure 4, the
  • gripper jaws being so controlled that during the withdrawal of the needle from the work the gripper pulls out the amount of thread that is present for forming the loop so as to prevent the formation of a loop.
  • the gripper jaws are actuated toward and from each other to grip and release the thread by a cam l5 and associated mechanism, the cam l5 being mounted on a vertical countershaft 20 journaled in suitable bearings 2
  • the speed ratio between the shafts D and 20 may be as desired, for example so that the shaft 20 will make one revolution for each twelve stitches,
  • next piece of work may be inserted into the machine and operation resumed with the assurance that the first skipped stitch on the second piece of work will be spaced the same distance from the edge as was the skipped stitch in the first piece of work.
  • This feature is particularly important where a long piece of' facing strip to receivefasteners is to be stitched to a plurality of garments in succession.
  • the main feature of my invention is a gauge scale and operating mechanism therefor.
  • this gauge scale comprises a strip of material 25 carried by a block 26 slidable longitudinally on a base 21 in a direction parallel with the feed and in'the path of the work through the machine.
  • the block 26 is reciprocated by a lever 28 having a pin and slot connection 28 at one end with the block and carrystitches, the cam projections ing a follower roller 30"at its other .end which follows a cam 3
  • has a generally eccentric or spiral cam surface and a plurality of cam projections 32 corresponding in number to the number of stitches in a cycle, in the present instance twelve having dwells 38 betweenv them.
  • the follower roller 38 is influenced into contact with the cam by a tension Spring 34.
  • the gauge scale will be reciprocated step by step by the cam projections 32 in timed relation to the feed of the work through the machine and the formation of the stitches, the gauge scale being moved forwardly simultaneously with the movement of the work and momentarily stopping with .the work, as the roller 30 contacts with the dwells 33.
  • the slot and pin connection 28 is adjustable as by a screw and slot connection 298 of the pin with the scale to vary the extent of movement of the scale on each step of movement to conform to the forward feed of the work when the latter is changed for example to make the stitches longer or shorter by use of a different
  • a control lever 35 pivoted intermediate its ends at 36 on the base 21 and having a notch 31 at one end to take over the edge of the lever 28 when the latter is in the position corresponding to the end of a cycle of stitches as shown in Figures 6 and 10.
  • the control lever is normally influenced against the lever 28 by a spring 38.
  • the actuating lever 28 and gauge scale selectively may be releasedor thrown into operation simply by pressing upon the end of the control lever against the influence of the spring 38 to displace the notch 31 from engagement with the actuating lever.
  • are numbered corresponding to the stitches of a cycle
  • the gauge scale carries graduations l0 numbered consecutively and representing cycles of stitches; that is, the spaces between each two graduations correspond to a cycle of twelve stitches.
  • the gauge scale being of relatively stiif material such as metal and carried by the block 26 and the latter being of flexible material such as fabric and secured at one end as by riveting H to the section 25A.
  • the gauge scale determines whether a piece 'of work, for example the edge of a corset or brassiere is of the right length to receive the desired number of special stitches, for example slip stitches which may be utilized for providing openings between the fabric plies to receive hooks or eyes.
  • the edge of the garment may be laid upon the scale as shown in Figure 9 and schematically in Figure 16.
  • the number of slip stitches possible on a garment may be ascertained by counting the number of graduations which lie between the ends of the garment or piece of work.
  • the garment 50 is formed of two sections 25A and 2513, the former example, assuming that the edge of the garment has a seam X adjacent the end and it is desired that the first slip stitch be made inwardly of that. seam, the garment may be laid on the scale with one of the main graduations 40 at the point on the garment where the slip stitch is desired, and the number of stitches which must be formed inwardly from the edge of the garment prior to the slip stitch may be ascertained by counting the sub-graduations 40A on the scale between the edge of the garment and the main graduation. 40 which represents the desired position of the slip stitch.
  • the drive shaft D will be rotated until the graduation thereon corresponding to the number of stitches, is juxtaposed to the pointer 98, and the starting end of the work will be located at the needle and operation of the machine started. Then the desired number of stitches will be formed followed by the first special stitch, and continued operation of the machine will result in the formation of eleven continuous stitches followed by a special stitch and so on.
  • the lever 28 and scale are moved instantaneously by the spring 34 in the direction opposite to that in which they are moved by the cam, and the position to which the scale is moved is determined by the position of the cam 3
  • the scale will first be moved by the cam in the direction of and a distance equal to travel of the work during formation of a series of stitches, and then the scale will be moved instantaneously by the spring 34 the same distance in the opposite direction. Accordingly the operator of the machine may at any instant by release of the gauge scale through operation of the control lever ascertain where the special stitches will be formed on the work and how many will remain to be formed.
  • This marking device comprises a holder 448 for a crayon or the like I which is adjustably mounted in an arm 442 carried by an oscillatory shaft 443 journaled in brackets 444 on the bed of the machine.
  • the crayon I is located in advance of the needle and is periodically pressed against the work to form a mark 445 thereon.
  • the shaft 443 has an arm 446 carrying a follower roller 441 which follows a cam 448 mounted on a jack shaft 85.
  • the shaft 86 has a helical gear connection 81 with the countershaft 20, and the cam 448 thus moves in timed relation with the cam 3
  • the cam 448 has a cam notch 448 which is moved into juxtaposition to the roller 441 once'in each cycle of stitches.
  • the roller 441 is caused to follow the cam 448 by spring 500 so that once in each revolution of the cam the roller 44! is caused to enter the notch 449 to oscillate the shaft 443 and force the crayon 44
  • the position of the mark 445 formed on the work corresponds to the position of the special stitch to be formed in the work, and the special stitches are formed in juxtaposition to the respective marks.
  • the marks make it possible for the operator to at all times see just where the special stitches are to be formed and after the stitches have been formed the marks facilitate locating them for any desired purpose for example to insert fastener elements in openings by special slip stitches.
  • FIG 22 a strip of work W is shown schematically with the stitches E, slip stitches S and themarks 445 in their relativepositions.
  • auxiliary feed mechanism to cooperate with the usual feed dog illustrated as shown in the above mentioned copending application.
  • This auxiliary feed mechanism includes two serrated feed rollers 88 and 8
  • rollers are geared together to rotate at the same peripheral speeds by intermeshing pinions 82, one on each of the roller shafts 83 and 84, and one of the shafts, in the present instance the shaft 83, is driven by a helical gear connection 85 with the jack shaft 86.
  • the. work is positively gripped between the feed rollers 80 and 8
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically perform special sewing at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work the position at which such special sewing will be located including a scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at a predetermined point and holding it against further movement.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located includingla scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the ,direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at the end of each cycle and holding it against further movement.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located including a scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at the end of each cycle and holding it against further movement, the last means being manually instantly releasable to start movement of the scale, whereby ,the scale during its movement shall indicate the positions of .the special sewing on the work at any point of a cycle.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism l-for moving the work step by step, of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the work and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a spiral rotatable cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism and having cam surfaces and dwells corresponding respectively to forward movement of the work and interruption thereof by the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection'between' said scale and said cam including a follower for the cam for moving the scale step by step corresponding to the movement of the work, and means automatically cooperating with said operative connection to stop movement of said scale by said cam at the end of the movement of the scale corresponding to a series of stitches.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism for moving the work step by step. of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the i work and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam inovable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism and having cam surfaces and dwells corresponding respectively to forward movementof the work and interruption thereof by the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said scale and said cam including a follower for the cam for moving the scale step bystep corresponding to the movement of the work, and means cooperating with said operative connection to stop movement of said scale by said cam at a predetermined point in said series of stitches.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the work and approximately parallel 'to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam movable in timed relation tothe work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said .cam and said graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said cam and said scale to reciprocate the latter including a lever pivotally mounted between its ends with one end to follow said cam and its other end connected to said scale, and means for automatically engaging said lever to stop movement of the scale at a predetermined point, said means being manpoint.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including a stitch forming mechanism and a work feed mechanism for forming automatically gaps to receive fastener elements,- of a marking device to form marks on the work visible and at one side of the point at which each gap is formed, and means for automatically actuating said marking device in timed relation to the formation of said gaps, whereby said marks will visibly indicate the location of said gaps to facilitate insertion of the fastener elements.
  • the combination with a sewing machine including stitch-forming mechanism and workfeeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located including a scale movable from a starting point along the path of the work,'means for moving said scale synchronously with and in ,the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, releasable means for automatically holding said scale against movement at the end of a cycle, and means for thereafter instantaneouslymoving the scale in the opposite direction to its starting LEO ROSEMAN.

Description

May 17, 1938.
' ROSEMAN DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS Filed Aug. 13, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet l I ATTORNEY y 1938. 1.. ROSEMAN DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS Filed Aug. 13, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 85 INVE TOR A ORNEY May 17, 1938. V ROSEMAN 2,117,453
DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS Filed Aug. 15, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 ENZOR 840 A RNEY May 17, 1938. L. ROSEMAN 2,117,453
DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS Filed Aug. 13, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 wiiiiuu I $56 '5 lllll 25 Z 5= m r um *n Z5 2 ZINVENTOR J MW 7 ORNEY L. ROSEMAN May 17, 1938.
DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS Filed Aug. 13, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 0 O 2 1. J 4 L 4 W A A A A 0 4 5 4 w w M z 2 a Z Z TFIIIILLEZ: Z w. d 0 w g INVENTOR ATTORNEY May 17, 1938.
L. ROSEMAN 35 3 DEVICE FOR PREDETERMINING LOCATION OF FASTENERS 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed Aug. 13, 1955 2 INVENTOR.
4 By M I M ATTORNEYS.
' Patented Mayl7, 193s PATENT OFFICE DEVICE ron rnnnn'ranmmo LOCATION 01 FASTENERS Leo Roseman, Newark, N. J. Application August 13, 1935, Serial No. 35,953
17 Claims.
This invention relates in general to a gauge or indicator for use with automatic sewing machines, one object of the invention being to provide such a device embodying novel and improved 5 features. of construction to predetermine and facilitate location of particular stitching operations at points in the length of a piece of work, and for example for sewing on fasteners such as hooks, eyes, snap fasteners, buttons or the like, and
especially to locate a particular stitchlng'operation at a predetermined point in a certain cycle of stitches in timed relation to the feeding or advancing of the garment to the stitch forming mechanism.
5 The invention also contemplates use with sewing machines specially adapted for making jump, floating, skip or slip stitches automatically at regular or irregular intervals; and one use of the invention is the connection with such sewing machines for.providing openings or gaps between two pieces of fabric which are stitched together to receive hooks, eyes, corset clasps, or other fasteners or the like.
In the manufacture of high quality garments especially corsets and brassires, it is desirable that the fasteners at the closures of the garments be located in exactly predetermined positions along'the edges of the closures and that there be a predetermined number of fasteners and the fasteners on each edge shall accurately correspond in number and positions with the fastener on the other edge. It is also desirable that the fastener elements be located accurately predetermined distances from the ends of the edges of the garment carrying the fastener elements.
In one form of fastener, the fastener elements are inserted into the openings provided in the edges of the garments, the openings being first 40 formed between superposed plies of material and the'fastener elements being thereafter inserted into the openings. impossible, to form such openings with auto-. matic machines in the correct positions on the 45 garment edges, and where errors in the positions of the openings have occurred it has been necessary to rip the garment and resew it until proper location of the fastener element has been obtained. This difliculty of automatic op- 51) eration has resulted in the manufacture of the better quality garments largely by manual labor, it having been the practice for the operator to cut a strip of fastener tape having the required number of fasteners thereon and located as they 55 are desired on the garment, and then place the It has been difilcult if not,
fastener strip over the full length of the garment edge and with a pencil mark exactly the position of each fastener element on the garment edge. The sewing operation is then performed, the operator watching carefully for the 6 position of each pencil mark and being required to stop the sewing machine at each mark to produce the required openings for the fastener element.
Therefore another object of my invention is to 1 provide a gauge or indicator'of the character described whereby it may be, determined whether the garment edge is of the proper length to receive the desired number of hooks, eyes or other fasteners, and to determine whether the fas- 15 teners or the like on one edge of the garment may be located at desired points, for example relative to a seam in the garment, to match complemental fastener elements in the other edge of the garment.
Further objects are to, provide such a device to indicate the positions of special stitching operations, for example, jump or slip stitches on the piece of work at any stage of a cycle of stitches and to provide a device of this character which shall be movable in timed relation to the feed of the work and the formation of stitches.
Another objectis to provide a gauge or indicator of the character'described for sewing machines which can be selectively thrown into operation and automatically thrown out of operation.
Other objects are to provide a novel and improved marking device operable in timed relation to the special stitching, for example a jump or slip stitch, for automatically making an inscription upon the work to visually indicate the location of said special stitching; and to obtain other advantages and results as will be brought out 40 by the following description.
In the accompanying drawings I have shown the invention in connection with a slip stitch sewingmachine like that described and claimed in the copending application of myself and Herman Rosenman, Serial No. 17,160 filed April 19, 1935 but it should be understood that the gauge or indicator and marking device may be used in connection with other types ofsewing machines without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.
In said drawings in which corresponding and like parts are designated throughout the several views by the same reference characters,
2 operating mechanism'for the gauge or indicator.
Figure '7 is a view similar to Figure 4 showing a modification of the gauge.
Figures 8 and 9 are fragmentary plan views of the parts shown in Figure 7.
Figure 10 is a transverse vertical sectional view on the line Ill-I0 of Figure 8.
Figure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view showing the connection of the two sections of the gauge scale.
Figure 12 is a schematic plan view of the cam for operating the gauge scale.
Figures 13, 14 and 15 are composite schematic views showing the gauge scale, the cam for operating it, the stitch presetting disc and the slip stitch controlling cam, in their corresponding relative positions at different stages or a cycle of stitches.
Figure 16 is a schematic plan view showing the manner of determining the number of special stitches which may be formed in a piece of work.
Figure 17 is a similar view showing the use of the gauge to ascertain the location of the first special stitches with respect to the edge of the piece of work.
Figure 18 is a composite of plan vlews of the gauge scale and a piece of work showing the various relative positions of the work and gauge scale during operation of the machine.
Figure 19 is a detached perspective view of the two sections of the gauge scale.
Figure 20 is a detached perspective view of the marking device.
Figure 21 is an end view of the marking device taken on the line 2l-2'| of Figure 20, and
Figure 22 is a plan view of a piece of work showing markings formed thereon by the marking device.
For the purpose of illustrating the principles of my invention, and particularly to illustrate one form of machine for forming special stitches with which my indicating device may be used, I have shown it schematically in connection with a type of sewing machine described in the above mentioned copending application which includes the usual frame I having the usual stitch forming mechanism including a needle bar A reciprocable therein by known mechanism (not shown). The needle bar carries the usual needle 3, and the machine also includes a take-up lever 4 which is utilized for supplying and taking up the thread in cooperation with the loop taker. The needle has the usual eye 6 and the longitudinal groove at one side in which the thread is seated as the needle penetrates and is removed from the work which is designated W,
Cooperating with the needle bar is the bobbin mechanism B of known/type which includes a loop taker hook 8 to pick up the loop formed in the needle thread during the normal operation of the machine in the formation of a stitch.
The machine also includessuitable known work feed mechanism which includes the reciprocating feed dog R for advancing the work beneath the needle in steps each equal to the length of one stitch, and a presser foot P of known structure is included to hold the work against the feed dog. For the sake of simplicity these parts are only schematically and fragmentarily illustrated.
As usual the thread T is threaded from a supply spool or the like through the tension device 5, the eye of the take-up lever and the eye of the needle 6, and during normal operation of the machine,.the needle reciprocates and on its descent penetrates the work to carry the thread through the work. As the needle rises, normally the thread at one side of the needle frictionally engages the work while the thread at the other side of the needle is in a groove so that as the needle rises a loop in the thread is formed below the work and this loop is picked up by the loop taker 8, carried around and interlocked with the bobbin thread to form a stitch. After the needle leaves the work, the work feed mechanism R moves the work forwardly a distance equal to the length of one stitch, preparatory to the next work penetrating movement of the needle for the next stitch. When the needle is in its uppermost position, the thread between the take up lever and the point in the work where the threads are interlocked to form the last previously formed stitch, is substantially taut, and there is suflicient thread present to form a loop for the next stitch.
To slip stitches the thread T is manipulated or pulled so as to prevent the formation of the loop, by mechanism which includes a. gripper G which comprises two gripping jaws g and g which are normally in juxtaposed relation and receive the thread T between them and are movable toward and from each other but normally influenced together by a spring. The jaws are caused to swing together about the axis of the shaft 6 in a vertical plane and are oscillated in timed relation with the drive shaft D of the sewing machine and the needle bar by.a cam 8' which is mounted on the drive shaft (see Figure 4) The cam 8 cooperates with a follower roller 9 which is connected to a lever l0 pivotally connected at one end at II on the machine and connected at its other end by a link l2 to a crank arm IE! on \the shaft 6. The roller 9 is caused to follow the cam 8' by a spring I 4.
The cam 8' is so shaped and timed that the thread gripper G is located at its uppermost positions as shown in Figure 4 when the needle reaches its uppermost position and the gripper is swung downwardly approximately synchronously with the movement of the thread T and the needle so that the gripper is in its lowermost position shown in Figure 5 when the needle reaches its lowermost work penetrating position. When the needle rises the cam 8' actuates the gripper upwardly into the position shown in Figure 4, the
gripper jaws being so controlled that during the withdrawal of the needle from the work the gripper pulls out the amount of thread that is present for forming the loop so as to prevent the formation of a loop.
The gripper jaws are actuated toward and from each other to grip and release the thread by a cam l5 and associated mechanism, the cam l5 being mounted on a vertical countershaft 20 journaled in suitable bearings 2| connected to the goose neck of the machine and being driven by a work and worm gear drive (not shown) from the drive shaft D of the machine at a reduced speed. The speed ratio between the shafts D and 20 may be as desired, for example so that the shaft 20 will make one revolution for each twelve stitches,
' one stitch being made during eachrevolution of the shaft D as usual so that the cam i5 will make one revolution while the drive shaft D is making twelve revolutionswhich during normal operation of the machine will result in the formation 'of twelve continuous stitches for each revolution of the cam ii. In the present instance it is proposed that one stitch shall be slipped in each a series of twelve stitches. In other words that eleven continuous stitches shall be formed and then one stitch shall be skipped.- Further details -of the machine are described inthe above-mention'ed copending application.
In many cases it is desirable to locate the first skipped stitch a predetermined distance from the edge of the work at, the beginning of the stitching operation and to indicate the number of stitches that have been after a skipped stitch when the follower roller i8 engages the cam recess l5a for skipping a stitch the zero graduation on the indicator stitch is in juxtaposition to the pointer 98. Therefore should it be desired to form six stitches inwardly from the edge of thework at the beginning of the stitching opera: tion before skipping a stitch the drive shaft D will be rotated until the graduation 6 on the disc 81 is juxtaposed to the pointer 99. Then upon operation of the machine six stitches will be formed followed by a skipped stitch, and the continued operation "of the machine will result in the formation of eleven continuous stitches followed by a skipped stitch, and so on. To assist the operator in beginning operation upon the next piece of work without unnecessary stopping of the machine, I mount on the disc a visible in-. dicator Hill which may be a set screw adjustable circumferentially of the disc, and this visible indicator will be set in juxtaposition to the graduation on the disc which is in juxtaposition to the pointer at the beginning of the stitching operation, in the foregoing example, the graduation 6. Then when the end of one piece of work has passed the needle the operator will watch until the visible indicator I00 reaches the pointer 99 whereupon the machine will be stopped. Then the next piece of work may be inserted into the machine and operation resumed with the assurance that the first skipped stitch on the second piece of work will be spaced the same distance from the edge as was the skipped stitch in the first piece of work. This feature is particularly important where a long piece of' facing strip to receivefasteners is to be stitched to a plurality of garments in succession.
The main feature of my invention is a gauge scale and operating mechanism therefor. A5 shown in the drawings this gauge scale comprises a strip of material 25 carried by a block 26 slidable longitudinally on a base 21 in a direction parallel with the feed and in'the path of the work through the machine. The block 26 is reciprocated by a lever 28 having a pin and slot connection 28 at one end with the block and carrystitches, the cam projections ing a follower roller 30"at its other .end which follows a cam 3| mounted on the countershaft 20. The cam 3| has a generally eccentric or spiral cam surface and a plurality of cam projections 32 corresponding in number to the number of stitches in a cycle, in the present instance twelve having dwells 38 betweenv them. The follower roller 38 is influenced into contact with the cam by a tension Spring 34. When the lever 28 is free for oscillation and the roller 30 is in contact with the cam iii, the gauge scale will be reciprocated step by step by the cam projections 32 in timed relation to the feed of the work through the machine and the formation of the stitches, the gauge scale being moved forwardly simultaneously with the movement of the work and momentarily stopping with .the work, as the roller 30 contacts with the dwells 33.
Preferably the slot and pin connection 28 is adjustable as by a screw and slot connection 298 of the pin with the scale to vary the extent of movement of the scale on each step of movement to conform to the forward feed of the work when the latter is changed for example to make the stitches longer or shorter by use of a different For automatically throwing the lever 28 out of operation, I have shown a control lever 35 pivoted intermediate its ends at 36 on the base 21 and having a notch 31 at one end to take over the edge of the lever 28 when the latter is in the position corresponding to the end of a cycle of stitches as shown in Figures 6 and 10. The control lever is normally influenced against the lever 28 by a spring 38. The actuating lever 28 and gauge scale selectively may be releasedor thrown into operation simply by pressing upon the end of the control lever against the influence of the spring 38 to displace the notch 31 from engagement with the actuating lever.
As shown, in Figures 12, 13, 14 and 15 of the drawings, the cam projections, 32 of the cam 3| are numbered corresponding to the stitches of a cycle, and the gauge scale carries graduations l0 numbered consecutively and representing cycles of stitches; that is, the spaces between each two graduations correspond to a cycle of twelve stitches. For economy in space and to avoid undue projections from the machine the gauge scale being of relatively stiif material such as metal and carried by the block 26 and the latter being of flexible material such as fabric and secured at one end as by riveting H to the section 25A.
' One use of the gauge scale is to determine whether a piece 'of work, for example the edge of a corset or brassiere is of the right length to receive the desired number of special stitches, for example slip stitches which may be utilized for providing openings between the fabric plies to receive hooks or eyes. For this purpose the edge of the garment may be laid upon the scale as shown in Figure 9 and schematically in Figure 16. As each graduation 0 corresponds to a special or slip stitch, the number of slip stitches possible on a garment may be ascertained by counting the number of graduations which lie between the ends of the garment or piece of work.
50 is formed of two sections 25A and 2513, the former example, assuming that the edge of the garment has a seam X adjacent the end and it is desired that the first slip stitch be made inwardly of that. seam, the garment may be laid on the scale with one of the main graduations 40 at the point on the garment where the slip stitch is desired, and the number of stitches which must be formed inwardly from the edge of the garment prior to the slip stitch may be ascertained by counting the sub-graduations 40A on the scale between the edge of the garment and the main graduation. 40 which represents the desired position of the slip stitch.
After it has been ascertained how many stitches are required inwardly from the edge of the garment to the first special stitch, the drive shaft D will be rotated until the graduation thereon corresponding to the number of stitches, is juxtaposed to the pointer 98, and the starting end of the work will be located at the needle and operation of the machine started. Then the desired number of stitches will be formed followed by the first special stitch, and continued operation of the machine will result in the formation of eleven continuous stitches followed by a special stitch and so on.
In Figures .13, 14 and 15 the corresponding relative positions of the gauge scale cam 3|, the indicator disc 81 and the cam l5 are illustrated.
In Figure 13 the parts are in the position corresponding to the twelfth stitch of the cycle that is indicated by dot and dash lines on the indicator scale. In Figure 14 the parts are in the position corresponding to the fourth stitch while in Figure 15 the parts are in the position corresponding to the tenthstitch.
With this construction, it will be observed that when the gauge scale is released by the control lever 35 and is in operation under actuation by the cam 3|. the positionsat which the special stitches will be formed on the work will be accurately indicated by the graduations 40 at all stages of the cycle of twelve stitches because the gauge scale moves synchronously with the feed of the work. When the gauge scale is held out of operation by the control lever 35 the work may move independently of the scale.
In Figure 18 at a the work W is shown at the beginning of the stitching operation laid upon the gauge scale with the gauge scale in the posi-- tion corresponding to the first stitch. At b in Figure 18 the work and gauge scale are shown as having been moved synchronously in the direction toward the needle while at c the work is shown as moving independently of the gauge scale and at d the gauge scale has been shown as released to its initial position indicated at a. Whenever the gauge scale is released by the control lever 35, the lever 28 and scale are moved instantaneously by the spring 34 in the direction opposite to that in which they are moved by the cam, and the position to which the scale is moved is determined by the position of the cam 3| so that at all times while the gauge scale is released for operation by the cam the graduations 40 will accurately represent the positions at which the special stitches will be formed. Should the lever 35 be manually held from engagement with the lever 28, the scale will first be moved by the cam in the direction of and a distance equal to travel of the work during formation of a series of stitches, and then the scale will be moved instantaneously by the spring 34 the same distance in the opposite direction. Accordingly the operator of the machine may at any instant by release of the gauge scale through operation of the control lever ascertain where the special stitches will be formed on the work and how many will remain to be formed. I
In order to visually indicate the positions at which the special stitches will be formed on the work I propose to use a marking device which is clearly illustrated in Figures 1, 20 and 21. This marking device comprises a holder 448 for a crayon or the like I which is adjustably mounted in an arm 442 carried by an oscillatory shaft 443 journaled in brackets 444 on the bed of the machine. The crayon I is located in advance of the needle and is periodically pressed against the work to form a mark 445 thereon. For controlling the crayon the shaft 443 has an arm 446 carrying a follower roller 441 which follows a cam 448 mounted on a jack shaft 85. The shaft 86 has a helical gear connection 81 with the countershaft 20, and the cam 448 thus moves in timed relation with the cam 3|. The cam 448 has a cam notch 448 which is moved into juxtaposition to the roller 441 once'in each cycle of stitches. The roller 441 is caused to follow the cam 448 by spring 500 so that once in each revolution of the cam the roller 44! is caused to enter the notch 449 to oscillate the shaft 443 and force the crayon 44| against the work. In this way, the position of the mark 445 formed on the work corresponds to the position of the special stitch to be formed in the work, and the special stitches are formed in juxtaposition to the respective marks. The marks make it possible for the operator to at all times see just where the special stitches are to be formed and after the stitches have been formed the marks facilitate locating them for any desired purpose for example to insert fastener elements in openings by special slip stitches.
In Figure 22 a strip of work W is shown schematically with the stitches E, slip stitches S and themarks 445 in their relativepositions.
In order to accurately gauge the location of the special stitches such as slip stitches on a piece of work, obviously the feed of the work should be accurately controlled. The usual feed dog work mechanism is not sufllciently reliable to produce the necessary accuracy and to ensure that the work shall be fed uniformly and accurately, I utilize an auxiliary feed mechanism to cooperate with the usual feed dog illustrated as shown in the above mentioned copending application. This auxiliary feed mechanism includes two serrated feed rollers 88 and 8| between which the material to be operated upon is gripped, one roller being mounted in the frame of the machine on shaft 83 and the other mounted on a shaft 84 in a frame 840 pivoted at 84| sothat roller 8| may be influenced toward roller by a. spring 842. The rollers are geared together to rotate at the same peripheral speeds by intermeshing pinions 82, one on each of the roller shafts 83 and 84, and one of the shafts, in the present instance the shaft 83, is driven by a helical gear connection 85 with the jack shaft 86. With this construction, the. work is positively gripped between the feed rollers 80 and 8| and the rollers are constantly rotated at a uniform speed in timed relation to the drive shaft D and the needle, so that the work may be fed with extreme accuracy and the skip stitches S may be accurately spaced in the work and overfeed of the work by the dog R is prevented. Underfeed'is prevented by adjusting the dog R to feed more than desired, and then preventing excess feed by the rollers 80, 8|
which hold back the work to the feed desired the dog slipping slightly over the work to compensate therefor.
While I have shown and described the inventhe invention and that many modifications and changes may be made in the details of construction without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.
Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:
1. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, and means for moving said scale synchronously with the work stitch by stitch and means for stopping movement of said scale and holding it stationary during the sewing operation.
2. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale having graduations corresponding to a. series of stitches formed by the machine and means for moving said scale synchronously with the work stitch by stitch, and means for stopping movement of said scale and holding it stationary during the sewing op eration and for manually instantly releasing the scale for movement.
3. The combination set forth in claim 2 wherein said means for moving the scale and said means for stopping movement thereof cooperate to automatically stop the movement.
4. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically perform special sewing at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work the position at which such special sewing will be located including a scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at a predetermined point and holding it against further movement.
5. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located includingla scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the ,direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at the end of each cycle and holding it against further movement.
6. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located including a scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at the end of each cycle and holding it against further movement, the last means being manually instantly releasable to start movement of the scale, whereby ,the scale during its movement shall indicate the positions of .the special sewing on the work at any point of a cycle.
'7. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism l-for moving the work step by step, of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the work and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a spiral rotatable cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism and having cam surfaces and dwells corresponding respectively to forward movement of the work and interruption thereof by the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection'between' said scale and said cam including a follower for the cam for moving the scale step by step corresponding to the movement of the work, and means automatically cooperating with said operative connection to stop movement of said scale by said cam at the end of the movement of the scale corresponding to a series of stitches.
8. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the yvork and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a spiral rotatable cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism, and .an operative connection between said cam and said slide to slide the latter including a lever pivotally mounted between its ends with one end to follow said cam and its other end connected to said slide and means for automatically engaging said lever at the end of the movement of said scale corresponding to a series of stitches to stop movement of the scale.
9. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a'scale slidable in juxtaposition to the work and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a spiral rotatable cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said 'cam and said slide to slide the latter including a work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located including a scale movable along the path of the work, means for moving said scale synchronously with and in the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, and means for automatically stopping movement of said scale at the end of each cycle, the last means being manually instantly releasable to start movement of the scale, whereby the scale during its movement shall indicate the positions of the special sewing on the work at any point of a cycle.
11. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism for moving the work step by step. of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the i work and approximately parallel to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam inovable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism and having cam surfaces and dwells corresponding respectively to forward movementof the work and interruption thereof by the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said scale and said cam including a follower for the cam for moving the scale step bystep corresponding to the movement of the work, and means cooperating with said operative connection to stop movement of said scale by said cam at a predetermined point in said series of stitches.
112. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale slidable in juxtaposition to the work and approximately parallel 'to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam movable in timed relation tothe work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said .cam and said graduations corresponding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, a cam movable in timed relation to the work feed mechanism, and an operative connection between said cam and said scale to reciprocate the latter including a lever pivotally mounted between its ends with one end to follow said cam and its other end connected to said scale, and means for automatically engaging said lever to stop movement of the scale at a predetermined point, said means being manpoint.
to the direction of movement thereof and having graduations correspdnding to a series of stitches formed by the machine, means for moving said scale in the direction of and in timed relation to movement of the work, said means including two cooperating parts movable relatively and together, one part continuously operating synchronously with the work feeding mechanism, and means cooperating with the other part to stop the latter and the scale, said last means being releasable atthe will of the operator to resume cooperation of said two parts and start operationbf the scale.
15. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch forming mechanism and work feeding mechanism, of a scale in juxtaposition to and free from the work and approximately parallel to the'direction of movement thereof,
-means for moving said scale from a starting point in the direction of and in timed relation to movement of the work and a distance equal to that of the travel of the work during formation of a certain series of stitches, and means energized by said movement of said scale for moving the scale instantaneously in the opposite direction to its starting point.
16. The combination with a sewing machine including a stitch forming mechanism and a work feed mechanism for forming automatically gaps to receive fastener elements,- of a marking device to form marks on the work visible and at one side of the point at which each gap is formed, and means for automatically actuating said marking device in timed relation to the formation of said gaps, whereby said marks will visibly indicate the location of said gaps to facilitate insertion of the fastener elements.
1'7. The combination with a sewing machine including stitch-forming mechanism and workfeeding mechanism to automatically form in cycles series of stitches including special stitches at intervals, of means to predetermine on the work at any point in a cycle the position at which the special stitches will be located including a scale movable from a starting point along the path of the work,'means for moving said scale synchronously with and in ,the direction of movement of the work stitch by stitch, releasable means for automatically holding said scale against movement at the end of a cycle, and means for thereafter instantaneouslymoving the scale in the opposite direction to its starting LEO ROSEMAN.
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